Fretboard Oil Comparison and Test

[@jamesreaves5534]

This is for Brad and everyone out there in KZbin Land. I've been a Professional Painter/Restorer since 1980 (Age 17. I skipped 8th & 9th grades and graduated at age 16). I've worked on Guitars since age 15. 99% of the "Lemon Oil" on the market is nothing more than Lemon Scented Mineral Oil. If it smells like Solvent (a lot do) it's probably Napthia which allows you to clean your Fretboard and oil it at the same time with the same product. You rub down your Fretboard cleaning it and leave the "Lemon Oil" on top. The solvent allows the "Lemon Oil" penetrate better then evaporates leaving the "Lemon Oil" behind. Real "Lemon Oil" is very expensive (it's sold as an "Essential Oil") highly Acidic, Corrosive. and and wouldn't be good for your Fretboard. Oils that dry like the "Behlen Fretboard Oil" (and Stew Mac's) are a "Polymerized Linseed Oil" similar to Birchwood Casey's "Tru-Oil" (a Gunstock Finish). The problem with these types of "Fretboard Oils" is Mineral Oil clogs the pores and doesn't allow the Wood to "Breathe." Linseed Oil dries and seals the wood which also doesn't allow the wood to "Breathe" either. The "Crimson Guitars "Fretboard Oil" is a natural plant based oil(s) (hence the pleasant smell) and far better than the others in your video. The best "Fretboard Oil" (IMHHO) is "Bore Doctor" or "Fret Doctor" (same product with 2 different names) from Doctor's Products. It's a blend of "Tropical Hardwood Oils" originally designed to oil the bore of a Clarinet which are made of Grenadilla Wood. Bore Doctor will replenish the Natural Oils in woods such as Ebony, Rosewood and other Tropical Hardwoods without clogging their pores. Which allows them to "Breathe" and still be to able to absorb & release moisture. This is extremely important on "Grenadilla Wood" Clarinets because you're constantly "Breathing" your hot moisture laden breath into them while you're playing. Bore Doctor was designed by Doctor Lloyd Henderson (A great guy. Shoot him and email and he'll email you back with any questions you have. He emailed me back within minutes.) His friend, a Guitarist saw how well it worked and asked for some to use on his Fretboards. So Dr. Henderson started labeling some "Fret Doctor" for Guitarists. You probably wouldn't think to use a product named "Bore Doctor" on your Fretboard. I wouldn't. I completely restored & refinished an Ibanez for a friend I removed the Floyd Rose Lock Nut, replaced with it with a Graphtech Black Tusq XL Nut (that matched the Ibanez's 16" radius) and Locking Tuners. Much easier than unlocking the Nut everytime the Guitar goes outta tune. Fretboard looked like it had never been oiled on the 20 year old Ibanez. When I removed the Floyd Locking Nut the cut edge (endgrain) of the Fretboard was completely dry and had never been oiled. it was a much lighter colour the top of the Fretboard. I oiled the entire Fretboard with "Bore Doctor" letting the Oil pond on top of every Fret being extremely careful not to let any of the "Bore Doctor" run over the cut edge of the Fretboard. I kept the Oil standing on top of the Fretboard in a puddle on each Fret for 3 or 4 hours and I gradually watched the "Bore/Fret Doctor penetrate all the way through the Fretboard to the Neck. You could see a dark line all the way across the cut edge. I watched it go farther and farther down on the exposed cut edge. You could actually see the Oil as it penetrated deeper and deeper until it reached the Neck. Amazing. I've never seen anything like it in all my 40 years messing with Guitars and finishes. This is completely off topic, but I refinished the Ibanez Neck with 8 coats of Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil and 44 coats of their Gunstock Wax then hand buffed everything including the unfinished Rosewood Fretboard to a Mirror Gloss with 3M Polishing Paper (another great product). I buffed the Neck after applying the Tru-Oil (after in cured 1 week) and again after applying the Gunstock Wax (after it cured 24 hours). It's so slick a Fly can't even land on it. I refinished the Body with 4 coats of Rustoleum Black Hammered Metal (they have a bunch of colours) a really great thick super durable finish.that doesn't need buffing. Just spray and sand between coats with 600 grit then 800 grit wet/dry autobody sandpaper. It's like a sore peter, you can't beat it. I also replaced the Tremolo Unit with Gotoh's 1996T High Stability Tremolo System, the best Floyd Style Trem on the market, even better than the expensive ($260) German Floyd. It's a hardened steel Japanese made Trem with Locking Studs which give the Unit Zero Play. It was $95 bucks brand new from Philadelphia Luthier Tools with free shipping. I'm sorry for being so long winded, but I hope this helps You and everyone else out there in KZbin Land!! Best Wishes & God Bless, Jimmy in NC...

[@blkjakk]

I thoroughly enjoyed reading your post!

[@jamesreaves5534]

Blkjakk Thanks! I've worked with various different types of finishes (paints, strained lacquers oils 2 part epoxies & urethanes, varnishs, etc) since age 12 (1975) nearly my entire life. I wouldn't steer You wrong. If I don't know something I'll tell You and not try to bluff my way through just to sound smart. If you need some help with anything look up Jimmy Reaves on Facebook or email me at [e-mail] Best Wishes & God Bless, Jimmy in NC....

[@sadmanmahdi8281]

so what are your thoughts about the dunlops lemon oil ?

[@yangzou6173]

thats good lot of information thanks

[@johnnypk1963]

James Reaves So what’s the downside of sealing fretboards? The oils and other FB products that I’ve used seem to dry out very quickly.

[@getenlightened]

It would be cool to see the fretboards the next day...

[@briw4647]

I use crimson guitars oil on my strat and les paul, works a treat and one bottle lasts ages

[@lehrgangswerk]

Hi Brad, I am finishing guitars in shellac like they did furniture in the 16th to 17th. century. After applying shellac you have to polish it with a special polish for shellac. i use this polish for the rosewood necks and it is the best result I ever had. By the way, the quality of the neck finish shows over the time when it not goes sticky or ugly. So you only can compare neck oils after 6 months. Greetings from Munich

[@BradAngove]

Shellac polish hey? That’s one I’ve never even thought of. Thanks for the tip.

[@jonahguitarguy]

Hi Brad, been building and repairing guitars for 15+ years and still have my first bottle of Stew Mac fret board finishing oil. Really like the way it works. Just made up my own brew of FBO 3 parts boiled linseed oil to 1 part mineral spirits. Lots of folks use straight linseed oil but I wanted it thinner to soak in a bit. Lemon oil treatments are mostly mineral oil with lemon smell. The other part of the equation here is application, 1 good coat left to soak for a few minutes then wiped off well. And then another light coat that gets buffed dry. Never leave it wet to dry on the surface it give you those shiny spots. It's cool Behlens gave you all those products to demo, they make great stuff I've been using there lacquers and solvents from the beginning.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Dane, I might have to try the finishing oil. I usually don't use finishing oils on my fretboards, and stick to just the ones that rehydrate them, but I'm starting to think that putting something a bit more robust on there wouldn't be a bad idea.

[@jeremywinnett6352]

Just be careful with linseed oil everyone. It can spontaneously combust on the rags. Especially if in the sun.

[@daviddesmond2143]

You can't judge after 5 minutes of applying fretboard oils. The best looking ones were applied last and had less time to dry. I think this test means next to nothing about which product is better. Mt opinion.

[@craigparse1439]

On some advice I got from "Steve from Boston" (a.k.a. Pixxy Lixxx), I tried using basic cutting board oil. I got mine from Ikea (Skydd). It's non-toxic, food-grade oil that doesn't putrefy as organic-based oils can. It's basically refined mineral oil. I tested this out on my MIJ Squier Strat and it's been wonderful. Now I use it on all my rosewood fretboards and it has been great. One quart currently runs about $6. It's applied and after 5 min., wipe off any excess. Sometimes it's worth paying a bit extra for a brand name and other times not. From the ones you used here, I think the Crimson one looks best.

[@BradAngove]

I used to use mineral oil occasionally. It’s basically the same as the lemon oil. Works quite well. Same as on my butcher blocks haha.

[@MacPro8CoreMan]

Hi Brad - I’ve been a hobby level woodworker off and on for over 40 years, but only in "non-musical instrument" applications. I am new to working on guitars, but I figure; wood is wood. I just received a 10-year-old Yamaha F310, given as a gift to me by a friend who overheard me say I wanted to take guitar lessons. The guitar has been hanging on the wall as a decoration since new. After watching a dozen or so KZbin videos, I tuned it and checked for fret buzz or any blatant issues... Seems to be in excellent condition. I then took off the strings and cleaned the entire guitar. It was just dust, but it was all over. From my very limited experience, I have determined that the neck is straight and true, the finish is in great shape. Overall the guitar is in great shape. Two things though... The Spruce top has a blemish in the finish about 2" square. It does not look like it was caused by trauma. To me, it looks like it sort-of "orange-peeled in the clear topcoat (maybe from direct sunlight). The second issue is the Rosewood fretboard is very dried out. I cleaned the Rosewood with a damp microfiber cloth have looked into the pores of the fretboard with a magnifying loop to verify that dust was the only cleaning issue. I have both Naptha and Tung Oil on hand and wondered which would be the best conditioner/finisher. I have used Tung Oil many times and know what it does, will the Tung Oil do the trick? As for the orange-peel on the top, I am tempted to just leave it. I'm smart enough to know that I could make it look worse in the blink of an eye. But if you have any non-invasive ideas for the top that would be great.

[@BradAngove]

Tung oil should work just fine. It’s one that I use frequently for fret boards these days. As for the blemish, have a look at my video on restoring a beautiful gloss finish. That’s the least invasive way that I go about it.

[@rodin3872]

i use old car oil from the last oil change i did on my new fender limited edition lake placid blue strat. Not a fan of having to rub it in so i usually just dunk the neck into the bucket and it works like a charm

[@BradAngove]

I bet that keeps the back of the neck nice and fast too.

[@NeoRichardBlake]

Probably makes a good stain too. That neck will just keep getting darker and darker. ;)

[@Propelled]

That only works half as well as whale blubber.

[@davebaker5913]

If you hit the oil with a torch you can also have a roasted neck

[@cvfunnsixspeed9213]

😂

[@757optim]

If Martin and Taylor (and Collings guitars?) are using Boiled Linseed Oil, as I read in the comments, this would suggest to me that this is a good product/practice. No?

[@michaelcarey9359]

Alembic basses recommend expressed lemon oil.

[@dontderockmeriz4546]

I use Music Nomad f one oil. Great stuff. Never let me down.

[@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342]

Just started using a bunch of their products actually... Never failed me yet : )

[@michaelbritton4119]

Naphtha (zippo lighter fluid) to clean the finger funk off of the fretboard, then boiled linseed oil. Apply, let it soak in a few minutes, wipe the excess. You’ll see where it soaks in- it’ll look dry in spots. Keep doing that until the sheen evens out after you wipe it. Also- make sure it’s not charcoal grill lighter fluid. It’s got extras in it. You want pure naphtha. It evaporates very quickly and doesn’t leave a residue. Just don’t smoke while you’re doing it, and don’t leave the linseed rags in the trash can or balled up in a pile

[@Peasmouldia]

Yeah, I wondered why boiled linseed oil wasn't in the comparison.

[@BradAngove]

Same reason olive oil wasn’t haha. Because I don’t use it.

[@Jrez]

I'd be curious to see what it looks after a longer period of time.

[@MrJunkpile]

The Crimson bottle is aluminum, not stainless steel.

[@99xara99]

Now after watching this video, I went to the building supply store to look for some "normal lemon oil" like as a furniture oil... I got the weirdest looks ever asking for it 😂 They all said they had never heard of that and asked me what it was for. One woman wanted to sell me lamp oil, the other one said I might could get some similar weird stuff in the pharmacy. I waited and lent some dunlop oil from a friend 😂

[@BradAngove]

That’s hilarious. Funny how little many hardware store employees seem to know about anything remotely specialized.

[@scottyhughes9179]

Hey Brad, great instructional video. I have been playing guitar for 50+ years, annually I clean the fretboard on my rosewood or ebony boards with woodwind bore oil - it is made for fine ebony, rosewood, and similar hard wood instruments.(clarinet, oboe, bassoon, recorder, etc) Before the advent of fingerboard oil brands you show here, that was my goto oil, and it still is. I just now have used the last few drops from the tiny bottle of Selmer brand woodwind bore oil I bought in 1978. You need very little oil. P.S. there is no smell to the oil.

[@arglbargl]

that stuff's just mineral oil, same thing as lemon oil sold for furniture conditioning

[@duncandistortion]

Been using dunlop lemon oil for 10 years works great & easy to obtain & it's not overpriced.

[@TrickyGomez]

Been using "Lemon oil" or just plain food grade mineral oil for over 30 years on my rosewood necks with no no issues. A little goes a long way and only needs it about 2 times a year. It just work for me.

[@rollipollirock]

PRS goes through all this trouble extracting moisture and there we go putting it back in.

[@rowlandstraylight]

Luthiers remove moisture. Water. And then they add oils, which wear away with time and use. Or at least the good luthiers do. A cheap guitar will probably ship with a dry neck. Rosewood is naturally oily but the oils with migrate to the surface and then be rubbed off over time.

[@Tonetwisters]

My brother and I used boiled linseed oil on guitar boards in his Tallahassee music store, back in the EARLY '70s. Worked quite well and we never had any problems with it. I generally just use Four ZERO steel wood to clean frets and board at the same time (masking tape over the pickups). Wipe it off well. Apply oil.

[@BradAngove]

I’d avoid steel wool for fretboards personally, but not everyone agrees with that.

[@michaelnicholas2417]

A lot of it is personal preference. I love the smell of lemons, so I have no issue with those products. A lot also has to do with how grimy your fretboard is. I use alcohol wipes first on very dirty fretboards when I do setups for other people, to get out the heavy muck(regular cleaner and conditioner for average dirt). To finish, I always treat/ polish with the Dunlop 65. I mean, if it didn't work or it hurt the fretboard, they wouldn't be selling so much of it. Thanks for sharing! 🤙🎸🤖

[@kenhughes4715]

Hi , I have been using Howard's feed n wax for many years. I leave in on for 20 minutes then rub it in. I also use it on acoustic bridges. I apply it once a year and so far have not had any excess drying or cracking on the fret board. I use this on all my customers acoustic guitars. It is the best I have found but am open to suggestions that's why I checked your video. I think you should have waited then rubbed in each of the products To show the finished results. Thank you for posting the video kenny

[@BradAngove]

Hi Ken. Thank you for the feedback, I really need to look into that product, as several people have said that that's what they use.

[@XChristianNoirX]

Behlens Fingerboard oil isn't just a regular oil. The description says it dries hard so it probably lasts a long time. "Fingerboard Oil is ideal for preserving the feel and appearance of woods such as rosewood, ebony and similar woods used on stringed instrument fingerboards. Penetrates unfinished wood and dries hard. Does not become tacky when exposed to heat. As the original application wears, it can easily be repaired with additional applications of the oil."

[@getenlightened]

I've used jojoba oil with good success, it's not greasy or anything. Soaks in nicely. I ordered some dunlop lemon oil to try that. I'm also considering applying a light coat of johnson's wax after I oil it, to give some shine and protection.

[@glytch5]

I had from a local luthier that they do not use lemon oil anymore because it is just scented mineral oil like you are guessing.

[@lacrebob]

Rawlings Glovolium has worked great for me over the past 40 years.

[@dougmcmillan2483]

my conditioner of choice is a mix of 4oz of Jojoba oil and 6oz of bees wax. Put the oil in a double boiler and add the wax, when it's liquid pour it into a container with a clean cloth. This will give you years worth of fret board conditioner. Jojoba is a liquid wax and from my experience this combo works wonderful

[@bjarnedahlberg5361]

This might come as a suprice but i use "hair/beard oil" much cheaper and it works just fine it as equally as good as any of the expensive "guitar oils" i have bought over the years. Same goes for polishing i use furniture polish instead of dedicated guitar polish and i havent notice any difference it works equally good.

[@BradAngove]

Furniture polish works great for the occasional cleaning and shining.

[@nicolashrv]

I really don't know if the Dunlop oil you used has the same components where you live.......but I apply mine on newly made fretboards, and no way they dry in 5 minutes. I apply 1 coat, spread it and wipe the excess, and I have to wait an hour minimum to fully dry, and STILL you have deposits on the surface (which after I polish with some cloth, gives the fret an extra shine to it). As someone mentioned before, lemon oil is nothing more than some natural oil with some lemon peels put inside to "flavour it".....same with orange, or whatever you want it to taste like. The only differences in between some is they add solvents to make the oil run faster and deeper into the wood, and that's it (therefore the funny smells, which later dissappear and leave the original scent)...........I don't think they affect too much, because I clean and treat my fretboards very often, every 2 or 3 months, so it makes no difference which oil to use.........guess I use the one that smells the nicest for me.......PLUS the one which is less toxic.

[@BradAngove]

Flavour it? Please don’t drink lemon oil. Also, I’m pretty sure those solvents can cause cancer.

[@nealixd.3011]

I use Gerlitz Guitar Honey Fingerboard Conditioner. Seems to really work well

[@oddoutdoors]

Unscented Johnson and Johnson baby oil works great and is 1/4th the cost. Been using it for years and my 20 year old fret board looks better than new. (Ive refretted that gutar twice now, its gotten a ton of play.)

[@skyelermcguire6201]

Could you make a video about how to smooth out (roll) the edges of a fingerboard? I'm getting an unfinished neck that i'm going to do that with as well as add a finish to it

[@BradAngove]

Good idea. I will do that.

[@JC-11111]

Jeez. Crimson sent you that 3 yrs ago? Wow. I figured this was recent. Then I checked the date lol. Regular lemon oil is fine for fretboards. It's use is to condition and clean wood and fretboards are wood so.... 🤷‍♂️😉

[@Xxmeca421xX]

no regular lemon oil isnt. its acidic and will dry it out. most is mineral oil with a tiny amount of lemon oil that organic made espeically for fretboards.

[@davidcole5183]

I hope after the comparison you finished oiling both of them.

[@drgrlitz]

Moroccan hair oil! Smell GREAT, & doesn't go rancid. I've had some bad experience rubbing too much oil into the fretboard of a '79 gibson explorer "E2" - a luthier told me that the oil might dissolve fret glue & make the frets "rise" from the board. So be careful.

[@michaelcarey9359]

Not much of a "luthier" if he didn't know that Gibson doesn't glue frets...

[@blakedoingthings]

I've been using the dunlop stuff on and off for years but honestly I think it feels sticky and kind of gunks up afterwards. Anyone else have similar experience with this?

[@over-there]

I use a couple drops johnsons baby oil on a rag and smear on rosewood fretboard with strings(steel nickel) on, metal parts too, and on body(poly finish) to cut gunk. Wipe body with super soft old cotton washcloth

[@DannyHauger]

Anything special for guitar fret inlays??

[@BradAngove]

No, you can just go over the inlays the same way.

[@user-ov4dw3yr5d]

How about Taylor lemon oil vs. Dunlop 65 oil? Which is much better for ebony finger board?

[@BradAngove]

They are the same product.

[@user-ov4dw3yr5d]

@@BradAngove Thanks man.

[@yohanonshine4664]

I use cleaner first zep quick clean is great and actually shines the metal frets also then I use formula 1 spray cleaner wax to polish the wood ,works awesome and doesn't fade when dry , I also buff the frets with this and get super smooth bends problem being its 20 bucks a can.

[@stratman9449]

just come across this (i know 7 years on.....)...but how did the fretboards come up after a little polish and removal of excess oil...and how did that feel...dry or "sticky"....?? cheers....

[@BradAngove]

None of them felt sticky. In the end they were reasonably similar. I don’t really use any of these options very often any more.

[@RodrigoRockChannel]

I just got a unfinished telecaster kit., with a maple on maple neck. Wondering what I can use for finish after sanding it. I dont want glossy finish on it, so I was thinking about mineral oil. That works?

[@BradAngove]

That works.

[@RodrigoRockChannel]

Thanks!

[@chezlerq4478]

Unfinished maple is like a sponge. Shrinks and swells as the humidity changes. That is why the Strat and tele come with lacquered fret boards. Seal it tight so moisture can't move in and out.

[@johnv1684]

For the last 15 years I've been cleaning/treating my fretboards with a homemade mixture of lemon juice and olive oil. 1 part of lemon juice for 2.5 parts olive oil. Always had mirror like super clean and smooth fretboards. If you try it don't go lower than 1/2.5 ratio and make sure to wipe down thoroughly after application. 2 coats every 8 months would be plenty.

[@BradAngove]

Olive oil? That’s an interesting one.

[@aussiecue]

Olive oil is the worst for any type of wood care. It goes rancid. Who told you to do that?

[@randyburton6418]

Scott's Liquid Gold wood care. We used it all the time in the guitar shop I worked in to clean and oil the fingerboards...

[@brandonleespitler]

I've been using Tung Oil. Works great. Also used Music Nomad F One oil.

[@joshchristian8598]

Good shit dude... ty glad to find your channel... like your no nonsense approach

[@westleywest7259]

Hi Brad. Right now I'm staining a rosewood neck black with india ink. It looks good, but I feel as though I want to protect it and maybe make it shine a little more. Should I use true oil and gunstock wax like I did on the back of the neck? Or should i varnish it? Should I compound and polish it out, being mindful of the frets of course? Or something else...? I guess the question is will oil have a solvent or diluting effect on the ink? Thanks.

[@yourhandlehere1]

Linseed oil. A few drops. Rub it in, wipe it off. A small can will last you 100 years. From what you tried there, to me the Crimson looks best.

[@cliffquerido9718]

Any type of linseed oil even those being used for painting?

[@BradAngove]

Same stuff, yeah.

[@MNB730]

I'm going to try this, they are cheap as hell and I hope they come out great!

[@boozieyt]

use the raw linseed oil or cricket bat oil, it will give the wood moisture. Cooked linseed oil or linseed oil use for painting will make the wood dry.

[@MNB730]

@@boozieyt I am going to try it using raw linseed oil tommorow, how long should i leave the oil there after i rub it in?

[@KeenenBlockson]

Could someone please tell me the brand and model of that gorgeous green guitar? I don't much care for greens but that finish is VERY nice.

[@BradAngove]

+Keenen Blockson that's a guitar kit that I built. I did a video series on the build and the finishing process.

[@KeenenBlockson]

Brad Angove Bang up job man!! Very nice 👌

[@BradAngove]

+Keenen Blockson Thank you sir.

[@michalzaw5575]

What do you think about using mineral oil??

[@BradAngove]

No objection to it.

[@hurdygurdyguy1]

Slightly off topic: what about string lubricants? Have you used Finger-ease, Fast Fret or Dunlop XLR8 ? Anything to minimize string squeak?

[@BradAngove]

No, I haven’t used any of those.

[@nevinmarknarciso]

is Parker & Bailey Lemon oil ok for use?

[@tanyushmusic]

Thank you for the experiment!

[@sashabagdasarow497]

Hey Brad, I have a question on worn fingerboard. My fingerboard is a bit worn and the wood (rosewood fingerboard) is not that smooth. Can I use sanding paper to smoothen it out? Won't I scratch the wood then? Could you help please?

[@BradAngove]

You can use sandpaper. Yes, it will scratch the wood just like sandpaper always does. Use fine paper. I often like to scrape with a razor blade for that purpose instead of sanding.

[@impetiousdoom]

Thank you for another pleasant video. 😎

[@eltiokoke]

What you recomend for laurel indian?

[@robbisonjustin5701]

Awesomeness brother.

[@kenthomas1613]

Quick question. Why don't people use a typical finishing oil like Danish Oil, Linseed Oil, Tung Oil etc. on your neck's fretboard to nourish BUT it's all OK to use Lemon Oil which is basically lemon scented Mineral Oil? Why is there a fear on using anything but Lemon Oil on a guitar's fretboard? Thoughts anyone?

[@BradAngove]

There isn’t. People use linseed oil and tung oil on fretboards all the time. It’s just that they’re more a finish rather than just something to add moisture and prevent the wood from cracking etc.

[@MusicMike939]

Hi Brad, I really like your lessons. I think of you more as a wood finishing expert and your showing how that applies to guitar. This is a very useful video since everyone needs to care for their fretboard even if they are not into building or finishing guitars. I would like to have seen you use Linseed oil that Dave from Daves world of fun stuff swears by. He does make very cogent arguements why that works best. I think part two of this video could cover maple necks

[@BradAngove]

I need to look into the linseed oil for sure. I didn't really consider it initially for two reasons. First, it's more of a finishing oil than the ones that I've selected here, which are aimed more at hydrating. Second, I'm leery of suggesting that people use linseed oil because it has been known to cause house fires. The rags that people use to apply it can burst into flames spontaneously if not disposed of correctly.

[@MusicMike939]

That is good information. Another reason that your wood finishing expert lessons are so good. Thanks again.

[@BradAngove]

Thank you for watching.

[@XoxJasonReynoldsxoX]

Was kind of hoping for a comparison of the COMMONLY used oils (linseed, f-one, fret doctor, guitar honey, planet waves, etc). Basically, the list you get when you go into ANY forum and ask for recommendations. Instead it's 2 kinds of lemon oil and lesser known products sent for free specifically to get their name out. At least I only watched to 1:46. Could have been an awesome and informative video.........

[@nicholasdunlop8875]

Hi so I'm wondering do you know what oil is best for feet board screeching? That is the only way I can describe it. You know when you get a screeching sound from pressing down the strings and moving to a different chord. Do you know what oils best for stopping that screeching?

[@BradAngove]

Fretboard oil won’t change that. That’s just your strings.

[@JetBob84]

Thanks Brad! This is a really good test, especially on virgin rosewood. What do you think of Dr. Duck's Axe Wax for use on a new DIY guitar rosewood fretboard like you used in the video? The product needs to be buffed out to get rid of the oily feel, but in my experience with store-purchased guitars it keeps a nice gloss. What do you think, Brad. Thank you!!

[@BradAngove]

I’ve never tried it. Never even heard of it before actually!

[@JetBob84]

@@BradAngove Thanks for your reply, Brad. I like the Dr. Duck's (I'm not a representative of the company....just a regular dude)....You can find it online, a good local guitar store, or even Guitar Center. It is for any instrument (wood, brass, etc.)....people call it the "Marvel Mystery Oil" of musical instruments. Sounds like snake oil, right? I use it liberally and spread it with my fingers...I have actually watched it soak into the rosewood fretboard of my acoustic Yamaha F325, classical Cordoba Protege', two Jackson Dinkys, and my 1983 Kramer Focus 2000 (it really helped that old bugger). Tough to tell on the maple fretboard of my EVH 5150 Series. It is a bit thick, but it still penetrates. You have to buff it though, per instructions, to get the oil residue off of the surface....but it LASTS! My Maestra guitar teacher (classically trained, 50 years experience, and was a pro) was amazed what it did for her guitars. It cannot hurt an instrument....she has an old Alvarez CY130 Yairi and the fretboard looks better now. It claims that it helps reduce string oxidation and I think it's true...I use the GHS cloth and all that black crap is string oxidation. I lightly oil the strings after playing (I'm not a pro, and I'm lazy to change strings)....my wife has a very musical ear and she heard the difference in keeping the brightness, even on used strings (after lots of GHS cloth polishing of strings to remove oxidation). Try it...it's cheap! I appreciate your videos. I can tell that you are quite knowledgeable and think like an engineer (I'm a research engineer, so I know the thought process). If you try it, let us know what you think! I would like to know if this is a placebo and you are the guy to test it, Brad! I hope that you have a great Labor Day weekend!

[@guitarforall]

i have minwax antique oil finish .. could i put that all over my rosewood fretboard? thank you for the videos and tips!!!

[@BradAngove]

Yes you can!

[@JayTheWorst1892]

On rosewood I use Howard's feed n wax.... once a year, and it really darkens it to a proper brown, say what you will about wax on a board but I frankly can't hear any difference

[@BradAngove]

I doubt that there are many people (if any) who would be able to hear a difference. That's an interesting idea; thanks.

[@scottborne5934]

Brad Angove I also give a thumbs up on the feed n wax 👍

[@MarcCarriage121]

Jesus Mariano I use it as well it's a great product . love the smell of it.

[@BradAngove]

Well, that's a lot of endorsement. Apparently I need to give this stuff a try.

[@ericcurtis8934]

seriously late on this one but I use Howard's feed n wax as well. and Zippo lighter fluid to clean the fretboard.

[@mark64tanner]

After seasoning a butcher block bench recently with Liquid Paraffin. Just chucked together a partscaster with a new raw neck (flamed maple and Rockwood) and am surprised at how silky it comes up with the neck wiped down all sides with the same . Doesn't seem to be oily at all and has a really transparent sheen (if that makes sense). Seems to almost have lubed the frets also. ps, this stuff has Laxative properties, so wash your hands after the application process ;) you'd actually have to ingest it to get that butt...... ;p

[@BradAngove]

Haha nice. Mineral oil is also a natural laxative. That’s how you know it’s safe for actual butcher blocks I suppose.

[@pamcarr4003]

Thanks for the test Brad, and your time.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks for watching Pam

[@generalbarry]

I was taught to use mineral oil, because vegetable oils can go rancid. I've always used just plain old baby oil straight from the drug store. What's your opinion on that point?

[@BradAngove]

Nothing wrong with that. I wouldn’t be using vegetable oil. Mineral oil is just fine. It doesn’t have a ton of longevity, but can easily be redone. Perfect for cutting boards too if you happen to buy it in some level of bulk.

[@generalbarry]

@@BradAngove But most of these commercial products are based on lemon oil. Lemons are vegetable, therefore lemon oil is vegetable oil. Right?

[@BradAngove]

@generalbarry lemon oil is mostly just mineral oil with some lemon scented chemicals I believe.

[@erniezamora9509]

What about waterlox ...that sound will not yes or no

[@colbimitchell]

i just lemon oiled my acoustic with dunlop and had no problem getting in next to the frets.

[@BradAngove]

Good to hear.

[@gregg4164]

All you need is some Naphtha or lighter fluid for cleaning it. It will not harm the wood or the finish of your guitar. You should be very careful aroufd any Nitro finish though because I am not sure on that.

[@stu-j]

I know it's an old video brad but I was watching something last night and it was a tour of Martin Guitars and they use Boiled Linseed oil on there rosewood or ebony Fretboards... They also dont recomend lemmon oil as it can break down Nitro finishes... also Collings guitars only use Linseed... it's very very small amounts also then buffed off..

[@BradAngove]

I usually use tung oil these days.

[@stu-j]

@@BradAngove it's all a out money and brand names Brad ( a fool and his money is easily parted) I stick to the old ways...

[@_DixonCider]

Taylor guitars does too.

[@stu-j]

@@_DixonCider they do but manufacturers want you to buy crappy products that don't do anything when the natural stuff has been used since the days of stringed instruments its cheap and will last you a lifetime...

[@_DixonCider]

@@stu-j . Amen, brother.

[@kvvnng]

Do you think Teak Oil is good for the fretboard?

[@BradAngove]

Teak oil works fine. It’s just a bit more of a finish rather than just a hydrating oil.

[@tm1180]

I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic 0w on my fretboards for many years, they look new? Is this a mistake, signed novice

[@BradAngove]

If it looks good and feels good then I wouldn’t worry about it.

[@kevinmoor26]

I took the tip from my cousin, who plays an eighteenth century violincello with the Sydney Symphony Orchestra. She wipes the fingerboard and body down with a damp tea towel every couple of weeks. I do the same with my twenty year old Epiphone bass. We can sell you damp tea towels for $400, or you can do it yourself for free. Lemon-oil? Unless you have lemonwood fingerboards, forget it.

[@BradAngove]

I’m not gonna lie, I got severely sidetracked when you started that with “I took the tip from my cousin”. Anyway, lemon oil is a common fretboard oil. Fretboards are generally made from different wood than a violoncello. Those are ebony. You don’t need to oil ebony fretboards.

[@blessed7fold]

@@BradAngove Why do you not need to oil ebony fretboards? Please explain.

[@BradAngove]

It’s very dense, so oil doesn’t really soak into it. It just sits on top and doesn’t really accomplish anything.

[@blessed7fold]

@@BradAngove So I presume the only thing that can be done with ebony fretboards aside from keeping them clean of grime is to just keep the RH between 40-60%?

[@BradAngove]

@@blessed7fold Some brands and luthiers put a bit of boiled linseed oil on them.

[@jimcamp2423]

I used Scott's Liquid Gold twice over 2 cleanings this week. Used it to clean the crud on a 14+ year old guitar as a recent purchase. I didn't leave it on long enough to soak into the wood or pores and used it sparingly so it wouldn't absorb thru the thickness of the Rosewood anyway. Compared results with a new Rosewood fretboard and the old guitar fretboard looks as nice as the new one that was showroom condition from the factory. I think when a product says to not use with laminates, they know the chemicals breakdown the glue. And that's why I figure I'm better off just cleaning the fretboard and then removing the oil almost immediately. If the wood was dry & cracking, it wouldn't even be worth applying the oil. When the guitar is indoors & air conditioned environment, the crud buildup from body/hand oils actually protects the wood from drying out with that layer of gummy filth ? The old guitar that I cleaned was almost indistinguishable with a brand new guitar that had whatever treatment they did at the factory.

[@jimcamp2423]

See, in this video, he applied it, let it sit for a couple of minutes and then removed the oil with a dry cloth, buffing it off. The key is to clean the gunk off, oil the surface of the Rosewood with a sparing amount of oil. Lemon oil, like he says, has to be acidic, probably a great cleaner, but can't be good for glue that laminates ? Afterwards, apply the proper amount of oil & remove it. Minimal absorption/invasive approach. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZvRhnqeeceroac

[@morgan8292]

Very informative thanks👍🏻 Is there any particular reason why people don’t use lemon oil on guitar bodies or on the back of necks ?

[@BradAngove]

It’s not really a finish per se. It mostly just soaks in.

[@jesselackey5333]

I used lemon oil. It looks like an older can and does have a solvent smell. I hated it. My fingers are "catching ", not sure of the proper term, on the fretboard. What should I do?

[@BradAngove]

Try just using a rough cloth and rubbing the fretboard aggressively to ensure that any excess is removed.

[@MasterMWL]

I find it interesting that the "Dunlop 6500 System 65 Guitar Maintenance Kit" has the 01 Fingerboard Cleaner and Prep, and the 02 Fingerboard Deep Conditioner, but not the 65 Lemon Oil. I'm curious how the 01/02 system compares. From this video, it probably works much better than the 65 Lemon Oil

[@BradAngove]

It certainly might. I have never tried it.

[@Toniz93]

Does anyone know if dunlop lemon oil can be used on "Oiled ebonized Poplar laminate" fretboards?

[@thebigcountry8518]

I have Old English with lemon oil. Can that be used ? My gosh it's recommended for all woods on furniture throughout the house. I don't see why not ! Sure it doesn't have some guitar co. name on it and cost a bundle.. My Mom had used it on her fine kitchen cabinets etc for years..My guitar neck is Ebony. Any thoughts ?

[@BradAngove]

Well, you actually don’t need to oil ebony because of how tight the grain is. If you take a look at my video going live in 10 minutes, you will see I have a new favorite oil. But, I’m any event, on rosewood you can probably use that product.

[@emcdvz5648]

Is it good to use hair oil?

[@sai2129]

Can u use baby oil as an alternative

[@franckgauthier1978]

I use hemp oil since it's natural and also good for skin, hair and stuff, and it works very well !

[@BradAngove]

Good to hear

[@michaelcarey9359]

Hemp oil goes rancid. SOunds like BAD news.

[@teedub127]

Half of my guitars have maple fretboards, will these same products work on them?

[@BradAngove]

I generally use tung oil on maple boards.

[@teedub127]

@@BradAngove Thanks for the advise.

[@lungelimb]

First of all, thank you for your videos, I love 'em! Slightly off-topic question: what's the inlays on that cyan LP? Man, they look SO gorgeous. Are they actual inlays or stickers? I'm assuming they are stickers due to complex shape, if that so - how they hold up and affect playing? Link where to get them would be much appreciated :3 I want to replace stock "pearl" dots like on that bottom squier neck of yours. Thx in advance, have a good one!

[@BradAngove]

Those are actual inlays. They’re the ones that came with that PRS style kit. It’s from guitar fetish. The kit itself isn’t very good though.

[@jasonigou4774]

Finger ease

[@lesterclaypool1]

teak oils the best and yes it costs more but it protects the best and is an actual wood oil

[@BradAngove]

I prefer tung oil for the protective finish, but yes, teak oil is good. These oils aren’t for protection, they’re for hydration. They’re not finishing oils.

[@SoloArtist]

What about orange oil? kyser makes some I heard it works good.

[@stevemorse108]

Thanks a lot for your presentation. Why do certain fretboards absorb rapidly in less than one day while others remain wet for many days. When I put conditioner on most rosewood necks they are dry the next day or the day afterwards whereas with my Paul Reed Smith which I read has a lower water content than other guitar brands because of their special drying process remains wet for days. Any insight would be appreciated. Maybe one is not supposed to leave the fretboard conditionner on without then using a rag as you showed in this demonstration...I thought that one should leave the conditonner on until it is absorbed so as to restore the humidity in the wood to avoid shrinking of the neck and the frets sticking out on the side (which can happen when the wood retracts) Thanks a lot!

[@BradAngove]

Some fretboards have more porosity than others. Also, you you don’t clean your board properly before oiling it won’t absorb properly. If it’s still wet for days you’ve got too much on there, so you might as well wipe it off. You’re trying to hydrate the wood rather than leaving a coating on top of it. That’s also why I wipe off my excess, although not everyone agrees on how long you should wait before doing that.

[@stevemorse108]

@@BradAngove terrific...thanks for taking the time to answer me ...I really appreciate it :)

[@jamesreaves5534]

It sounds to me like PRS is not only drying their stuff but they're adding some type of sealant or sealer in it which is causing your oil to lay up or stay on the surface of the Fret board I can't say for sure but from your description yeah I'm 98% sure. If I were applying the oil myself I would know. You can't work in finishes for 30-plus years and not be familiar with them.

[@stevemorse108]

@@jamesreaves5534 thanks for your opinion. It is impressive how the oil just won't penetrate the neck wood on my PRS...three days after applaying it the neck it still all greasy and wet.

[@053180jlove]

Bore oil is what ive used on my ebony boards for 30 years.

[@BradAngove]

Interesting. I may have to give that a try.

[@yogisgl]

Hon sir, I have cort Af510m op guitar. All mahogany body. &... Which have Merbau wood Freat board and mahogany neck.. Which type of Oil i should be using to clean and maintain these woods..? Kindly Guide.

[@BradAngove]

I would use tung oil probably.

[@yogisgl]

@@BradAngove Thank you for the reply sir.

[@rowlandstraylight]

Behlen fingerboard oil is a thin danish oil. It penetrated and dries HARD.

[@johnduck1203]

Brad .. You forgot about Dr. Ducks Ax Wax and String Lube - Used in manufacturing by the Fender Group since 2004, C.F. Martin Guitar since 2006, Santa Cruz Guitar, Moonstone, Beard Dobros, many more since the 1990's ... first Face Book Dr. Ducks Ax Wax and String Lube then contact me .. Ever Onward ...

[@BradAngove]

I wouldn’t say I forgot about them haha. This is not a demo of every possible fretboard oil. It’s a demo of the ones I have here.

[@johnduck1203]

I'd like to get you a sample .. message me off of face book with your shipping address and I'll send you out one just to see how you like it .. ...

[@BradAngove]

Have we been in touch on Facebook?

[@Jbeliski]

You can also just use straight mineral oil from the pharmacy. It's petroleum based so will never rot or decay over the life of the guitar.

[@BradAngove]

You can for sure. It’ll just have to be re-done more often than these options.

[@gerrystidham9792]

I've been using tung oil for a good while....any thoughts ??

[@BradAngove]

I use tung oil for this frequently now.

[@batmanandrobin250]

What should I do after I put the oil on my pickups he didn’t say anything about it on this video.

[@BradAngove]

... what you do in the privacy of your own home...

[@rubberband9570]

I soak my guitars in soap water once a month. Seems to work wonders on my tone

[@BradAngove]

Try vinegar. That will work wonders on the smell as well.

[@blessed7fold]

@@BradAngove 😂

[@rodniehernandez123]

Hey brad love ur videos hope u show how to replace a fretboard cause i painted over mine and did not like the end result. Im sure all the luthiers are going to distroy me but i want to fix my mess up, agian thanks love ur videos.

[@JayTheWorst1892]

rodnie Hernandez no need just sand back with a foam block work your way thru the grits

[@rodniehernandez123]

Ok but wont it wear down the wood.

[@JayTheWorst1892]

rodnie Hernandez well yeah but if it's painted over your kill all of the paint before you touch wood... just let the sand paper do the work

[@rodniehernandez123]

Ok thanks a lot will di that and let u know the progres

[@BradAngove]

Ya, you can either sand it off or scrape it carefully with a razor blade. It would be overkill to replace the entire fretboard for that. Just don't use a bunch of heat on it to remove the paint or you might loosen up the glue that's holding the board on.

[@jameskrys5286]

The only stuff I use now is a little Murphy's Oil Soap on a damp cloth.

[@BradAngove]

That’s good for cleaning, which is an important part of fretboard care, but not really the purpose of the comparison.

[@Cracksoda]

Do you dilute it or use it pure?

[@BradAngove]

I dilute it.

[@wadepatton2433]

there is no "oil" in MOS, it's just soap.

[@BradAngove]

Indeed.

[@mikemaydonik2608]

I recently got a guitar kit with a maple neck and fretboard. I've found your videos quite useful in deciding what to do with the body. But I'm not sure what to use on the neck and fretboard. What do you suggest?

[@BradAngove]

Well, you have a few options there. Personally I like to avoid gloss finishes on the neck because they slow your hand down. I like to do the back of the neck in a satin, or oil finish. If I'm spraying it gloss I just sand it back a bit afterward. For the fretboard you will need to choose if you want to put a finish on it or not. Some guitars have gloss lacquered fret boards. Personally I prefer an unfinished board. I just oil it like in this video to keep the wood "healthy". I prefer to avoid having a finish on there that I could somehow destroy if I'm playing aggressively.

[@mikemaydonik2608]

Yeah, I was definitely thinking of a satin finish on the neck. Maybe a gloss just on the front of the headstock. I have seen a lot of maple fretboards that have a gloss finish, but it looks bad when it starts to wear away. I just haven't seen too many oiled maple fretboards. But I might try it out. Thanks Brad.

[@BradAngove]

You're welcome. You can also use a finishing oil if you want to go with a midpoint between those two options. The oils in this video are for hydrating, not finishing.

[@johnnypk1963]

Mike Maydonik The problem w unfinished maple FBs is they get dirty and darken really quickly. I’ve never put oil on a maple FB. Seems to me that would make the problem worse. I use Tru-oil on maple FBs.

[@guandaplayslol]

It would be nice to have a final answer in the conclusion

[@BradAngove]

I use maximum guitar works oils now. They’re my favorite.