FRONT SWAY BAR LINK REPLACEMENT (JEEP ZJ)

[@barricadegarage5361]

REAR SWAY BAR LINK REPLACEMENT (1993-'98 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE) kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGe3qHttnMech9k

[@Reaper3179114]

Never seen a video made better. Exactly what i wanted to know, quick, and to the point. Keep it up, liked and subbed.

[@kidphillyorg]

I'll second that! Thanks!

[@davidsnsd]

My thoughts exactly!! 👍🏻 If only more vids were made like this. Keep up the great work!

[@throttletherapy9998]

My 98 also had the sway bar saddle mount bushing go bad like to drove me nuts, because every time I would check it i had it on the lift which put slight pressure on them so I couldn't see or feel the slack in them. When I had the weight of the vehicle on the tires that when I found it. Just an FYI for the viewers. Good videos ,thank you for taking time to make them

[@EddieBarksdale]

These videos are all a freaking godsend! Better than any manual.

[@Kimb3rlyK96]

Extremely helpful videos straight to the point (replacing upper and lower ball joints, tie rod end bushings, sway bar end link bolt, 3 wheel studs) 1993 keep Grand Cherokee Laredo 5.2l V8

[@DaveTurnerBassGuitar]

love how thorough and to the point your videos are. Thank you!

[@0vesen]

Hey man. I just wanted to thank you for making these videos. Im nowhere near of being mechanically inclined and I've never dared to fix my own cars before, but your videos are incredible helpful and has made me not so afraid of trying to fix things myself. I really appreciate the time and effort you put in these videos. No bullshit and straight to the point. Thank you so much and keep up the good work 😊👍👍

[@barricadegarage5361]

Thanks and im glad I could be of some help

[@haydiethrush3740]

Very helpful appreciate you adding in the torque and explaining sizes for bolts and torques 🤙🤙

[@RR-co4wh]

Thank you for your time and videos I have two 97 zj i6 a 5.2 v8 your videos have helped me keep them both running

[@stayreadyjustincase9150]

I love your videos man, keep it up. I used your transfer fluid change video already. Awesome quality and professional attitude. Thank you

[@gatapi]

one of the best guides I've seen -- the camera angles are great and help a lot. Keep it up!

[@80sbabyyup49]

Keep up the great work. I know how to change them, I'm here for the support. Plus you helped me a lot when replacing my front end suspension, which was my first time. Thanks

[@barricadegarage5361]

Thanks bro

[@ethan-lo4zw]

Man, I love your videos. 100% information and nothing else. I watched a 40 minute video for my manifold because thats all I could find. Dude put memes in the damn video. THIS guy does it right 👌👌

[@chrisinutahpagano6774]

Man you have the best how to videos. Makes working on my 95 easy and I also see when I should have some stuff done for me too. Thank you

[@WeKnowTheTruth2012]

AWESOME VIDEO this is so quick and informative. cool jeep very clean

[@barricadegarage5361]

+WeKnowTheTruth2012 thanks

[@ProjectDanH]

Great job! Thanks!!!

[@boxfancb]

Great camera angles and content editing. I've heard you can upgrade ZJ's with WJ components. what are your thoughts on that?

[@Jabari1937]

Great video. Question, is the ball joint press absolutely required? Can I soak the links in penetrating lubricant for a couple days and just knock them out with a hammer?

[@tgoody100]

I’m working on mine now and the top end nut got to a certain point and now the bolt spins with it when I’m trying to tighten fully. Any help? Thanks man, love your videos

[@BurtSanders]

The top bolt on the sway bar link? It's been the months, what'd you figure out on it?

[@ethan-lo4zw]

I'm having the same problem right now. Did you figure it out?

[@posieslayer4367]

Same problem

[@two8252]

For anyone experiencing this (the top bolt spinning when tightening down)... my replacement link had a hex wrench insert at the very end (top) of the bolt. So insert a hex key/wrench and then use open end wrench to tighten. Once it all gets a little tight around the sway bar, you can then switch back to your socket head torque wrench. Anyway, look for the ability to insert a hex wrench to tighten against.

[@MrPhila4]

Hey man, I constantly come back to rewatch all your ZJ vids. I wanted to know if you would know what lock nut and washer I need for the front sway bar? As i was driving home last night, the lock nut and washer came off the left front sway bar link. I'm having a hard time trying to figure out where I can find replacements.

[@barricadegarage5361]

I just took my link to lowes and found a nut and bolt combo that fit for my '96 and its been good for years. I dont have an exact size for you though

[@gvincent9231]

For anybody that lost the bolt, washer & nut to be base (Bottom) of the link (the link kit does NOT come with them, just come with top parts - the bottom bolt, washer & nut and wiggle off) The bottom bolt TORX T55 = M12x1.75x70, OEM=6505465AA (Grade 10.9), The nut is M12x1.75 Nut (OEM=#6502697) - I think the nut is also Grade 10.9. For the washer you have to size up & buy a heavy duty one. You can actually order Mopar bolt & nut from several suppliers using the OEM #s I provide - parts cheap but shipping will get you a bit - combine with other items if possible. As shown in video the torque to bottom bolt / nut is 95Nm / 70ft lbs

[@jwf155]

Did both fronts on my Daughter's 96 Grand Cherokee. Both torx bolts were stripped and the nuts on the back were rusted. I had to saws-all the bolts off. Couldn't find any part # for a replacement bolt. Went to local NAPA and pieced a bolt/nut combo together. Seems OK for now but I would like to replace them with stock bolts, any info ??? Doing the rears this weekend !!!! Great videos, Daughter watches you also !!!

[@barricadegarage5361]

youll have to order the Crown Automotive Part #: 6505465AA. You can type that in the google search bar and it will show up but I doubt youll be able to get it in any stores near you. When this happened on my '96 ZJ I went to Lowe's (because they have a better assortment of nuts and bolts than Napa or Ace Hardware) and found a hex head bolt that matched and its been on thete for the past 2 years no problem. Hetes a link to the oem style bolt you want though... www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/swaybar-link-bolt

[@jwf155]

@@barricadegarage5361 thanks. I ordered them. Looks like they don't come with the nuts. Not a big deal, should be easy to find something that fits. Swap um out next weekend.

[@OldsVistaCruiser]

A pickle fork will work in a pinch for the top ball stud. My replacement links didn't have a ball stud, just a straight stud.

[@barricadegarage5361]

your right. theres always more than one way to get it done

[@yanthos]

nice and no use of penetrating fluids, just pure understanding of leverage. 100% badassary right there.

[@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305]

These were a pain for me to replace where they press in on the top.. i had to cut a slit to remove the pressure from them being pressed in..then weld it back to reinstall. Since i weld it wasnt an issie cutting for me

[@foreshadowstrike3469]

I sure wish my T55 bolt would come out as easy as yours did 😂

[@BurtSanders]

This may be a dumb question, but how do you know when to preload the suspension before torquing to spec and when not to. Does it depend on if it has bushings or not? I've never done any suspension work and I'm trying to get my knowledge up before my upcoming project.

[@wrens114]

Not sure if it supose to be this way but .. right side is straight up and diwn but leftside is tilted back toward the spring

[@voodooleatherworks145]

Great video! But how do you keep the top bolt from spinning when tightening it down?

[@two8252]

For anyone experiencing this (the top bolt spinning when tightening down)... my replacement link had a hex wrench insert at the very end (top) of the bolt. So insert a hex key/wrench and then use open end wrench to tighten. Once it all gets a little tight around the sway bar, you can then switch back to your socket head torque wrench. Anyway, look for the ability to insert a hex wrench to tighten against.

[@nickbaldridge951]

Love your videos man but the top bolt on sway bar links swivels. So the more you try and tighten the bolt just keeps swiveling. Maybe just another brand but this just caused a bunch of headache and I had t ok take the whole sway bar off to install the links

[@jaylongton]

What does it mean if you hit a bump in the road and it pulls back and forth like a sway? I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Ty

[@newmexicooffroadvideoslock8814]

What is the part number normally you give out the part number

[@barricadegarage5361]

I dont remember the part number. These were some old generic links I picked up a while before I did this

[@gvincent9231]

Here he is using a MOOG LT-K3196 (Video at 1.34) - Interesting as that part does not show compatible with ZJ on Amazon but the reviews say it fits - go figure (Size looks right when he matches up) - Oh and I love these vids by the way for info on my ZJ.

[@Robertocarlos-cd6ex]

A mi se me quebro donde va agarrado se puede soldar ya que viene de fabrica ? Gracias saludos

[@Nova-Rift]

Thanks!

[@NoWr2Run]

Those links ( as do mine ) look too long when I installed them, they seem to put a lot of sideways stress on the ball joint on top of the link ? Don't know why they don't have grease zerks in them, couldn't find any that did ? I, as the other dude, used a different method of removal. Some type of solvent, oil, sprayed the stud put the nut back on fully then 3 LB. HAMMER ON NUT THEN ON THE SWAY BAR. Pretty easy job & DEFENITELY BETTER THEN PUTTING A F'N FUEL PUMP IN, LMAO BROTHER.

[@barricadegarage5361]

nowr2run this ZJ has a modest 2 inch suspension lift thats collecting dust in my closet but ill probably get around to installing it before the month is out so the length of the sway bar links are alright with me. the puller works wonders when you have no room to swing a hammer because you didnt remove the other link so you can drop the sway bar to get a better hit, took less than 30 seconds and only 20 minutes to do the entire job so its easier than replacing a fuel pump but not as fun

[@cagrangersealninja3720]

Do you have to let the front end "droop" or just put the jack stands under the axle.

[@barricadegarage5361]

Just put jack stand under axle, theres no need to let it droop. Also, dont tighten one side down before the other so you have enough wiggle room to get the opposite side in place with no problem

[@two8252]

Actually, I could not remove the old link while the weight was on the axles... even with the lower bolt disassembled. It was really stuck in the sway bar. I used a puller that kept slipping off, a pickle fork, and then a hammer. None worked and the hammer mushroomed the bolt. What I finally did to get it out was to reconnect the lower bolt and then let the front end droop by putting jack stands under the frame. With that additional pulling and then the hammer... it came free. I had to use a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the mushroomed portion of the bolt. But I was then able to slide out my old link and install my new one. Be careful when you jack, etc.

[@ralphnabozny8494]

did what you did do any good?

[@796andy2]

perfect , thanx

[@leviledbetter]

I dont NEED the puller tool right?

[@barricadegarage5361]

No you dont NEED it but it helps

[@leviledbetter]

@@barricadegarage5361 aight thank you.

[@Tromefromlowndes]

Never mind Found it !!!

[@michaelangelos5117]

The old ones were installed backwards

[@jongearhart1359]

Ya really don't need the tie rod puller just tap the old link with a hammer and it will drop out simple otherwise great video

[@edisonsc1183]

🤟🇧🇷

[@johnshirley5342]

👍👍👍👍

[@michaelangelos5117]

The top nut is spinning and I can't get the proper torque.

[@two8252]

For anyone experiencing this (the top bolt spinning when tightening down)... my replacement link had a hex wrench insert at the very end (top) of the bolt. So insert a hex key/wrench and then use open end wrench to tighten. Once it all gets a little tight around the sway bar, you can then switch back to your socket head torque wrench. Anyway, look for the ability to insert a hex wrench to tighten against.

[@rayoliver6807]

Hey,buddy you put your top bushing wrong,1 on the top 1 on the bottom don't forget metal flang or it will eat the bushing!

[@badteddygaming3114]

I didn't need a separator for mine