Fuel Pickup and ASV Replacement, Summer 2019

[@johnbravo2315]

Looking at the 90 degree fitting which threads into the top of the fuel tank and accepts the anti siphon valve fitting: There is enough material on the upper area of that 90 fitting to fit a 12 point socket onto it using a ratchet or breaker bar. An open wrench looked tough to use in such a cramped area shown in the video. When breaking loose a real tight threaded fitting bring that fitting out one turn apply penetration fluid then back in a half turn. By repeating this action the fluid will make its way down into those tight threads.

[@JimMFishing]

John, thanks for adding that information. It may prove very helpful to others who are in a difficult position of access.

[@JoystickTX1]

Glad to find this video. I had to replace mine due to a fuel starvation issue that drove me nuts for a while. I thought that maybe the screen was partially plugged and restricting the fuel flow. The engine would not get over 2000 rpm. Mine was also really hard to get loose from the tank. I had a strange problem. The screen was clean. A small crack at the top of the probe would allow air into the pickup tube, unless the tank was full, with half a tank the problem was always there.

[@JimMFishing]

Steve, glad the email helped. The ASV due to its typical installation location is hardly ever checked by the average boater. It is something that needs to be put on a maintenance routine to at least check it's physical appearance so that we know when it should be considered for replacement. ~Jim

[@Rachelssolutions]

Thank you I never thought about a crack

[@capnhowiedent6197]

I'm having the same exact problem!

[@OffshoreSlimster]

Thanks for sharing your video. I recently had to change my pick up tube as well but I wasn't as persistent as you with the hose. I just made a small slit in it and cut it straight afterwards. Also, I used the tool that is meant for shutting of the city water main thats shaped like a T. It made the job a bit easier but it was still a pain in the neck. Hope this info helps others.

[@JimMFishing]

Offshore, thanks for watching and for commenting. Your use of the water main "T" tool may be of help to others, the goal of this video.

[@chuckceccacci3]

Great idea with the T handle indeed!

[@Sandy-zj5fl]

You usually have to cut off a inch of hose anyway from rot or damage so I just go ahead and cut the hose off and cut the peace off the check valve when I get it out.

[@JimMFishing]

Very valid point, Sandy. My hose was in great shape and I don't like shortening anything (hose, wiring) if it is avoidable. Like you stated though, some situations can warrant your suggestion.

[@notknown8214]

@@JimMFishing The hose clamp I have on my 1720 is rusted and I might have to resort to cutting it off

[@JimMFishing]

@@notknown8214 - good luck with a rusted hose clamp. Somebody obviously put a less expensive clamp on there instead of using a stainless steel clamp.

[@timmolchan2599]

Excellent, just doing this now on my 1720. The antiphon corroded was so badly it had holes in it, removal was impossible as it just crushed. Found your info while searching for a way to remove the fuel pickup. It would not budge so I will be soaking it to hopefully have success to remove it. Thanks again, my mechanic explained that when having difficulty removing the hose, he makes a cut a long the barbs and then cuts off that last inch of the fuel line and can still slip it on.

[@JimMFishing]

Tim, I wish you success with your ASV replacement. I'm now of the opinion that we should be replacing these aluminum parts every 5 years regardless of condition as part of a preventative maintenance program. Having relatively new hose helped with the hose removal on this job. I had replaced the fuel hose from the tank to engine several years ago and honestly do not recall the ASV looking as bad as it was. Given that it is in a compartment we rarely enter in to, it can deteriorate with little notice. Again, good luck!

[@timmolchan2599]

@@JimMFishing Can't thank you enough for posting that video, received my parts and will be replacing everything soon. Surprised at the ease the new fuel line went in, just slid right through.

[@melloreel]

Jim M is there a vid on fuel hose tank to engine replacement? Was it a tough job as well? Trying to replace all the ethanol eaten hoses. Thanks.

[@JimMFishing]

Melloreel, I did not think to make a video on replacing the tank to fuel/water separator filter when I did that job a couple years ago. It is not a hard job IF your wire chase between the starboard aft and CC isn’t crammed full of wires. When you tackle the job, be sure to have more length than you feel necessary of replacement A1-15 rated hose. I used an inline double barbed hose connector to attach new hose to end of old hose that was removed from the fuel filter. Tape together and carefully pull new hose through, pulling from access inside CC with a helper guiding new hose into the wire chase. Expect there to be fuel in the old hose as it dips down inside the chase. Use 2 hose clamps on ASV to secure new hose, required on beneath deck connections. Also be sure hose clamps are at least 1/4” from end of hose barb so that the hose doesn’t get cut from the inside. Lubricate new hose and fitting with two cycle oil to make it easier to slip hose over the barb. All the best, ~Jim

[@jeffmatanin8598]

Mixture works on fitting for me. Hose back on is way worse than off.. Permatex#2 on threads for reassembly. NO tape period. Good luck and be patient. One days of PB blaster and one day liquid wrench …final day the mix. Used crescent/screwdriver to remove valve and a socket over pick up tube 1/2 drive. Broke free with socket ….slowly backed out…once again patients and finesse….great video you created thank you!!!

[@JimMFishing]

Jeff, thanks for the compliment and for commenting. Glad the video helped and that you've got the job finished. This is one of those out of sight, out of mind items that we all need to put on a regular replacement schedule.

[@libastafan370]

Thanks for the video. I've tried days of liquid wrench and then blaster. Same wrench scenarios you used. Maybe your red Acetone and ATF may work. So frustrating as I already replace most parts on my 95 Caravelle IO and now this first thought easy job Lib, Charlotte Harbor FL.

[@JimMFishing]

Lib, be patient. They can be real stubborn based on comments I’ve received. You don’t want to wring it off if you can avoid it.

[@1stinsonguy]

Since we're on the subject, (kinda) how would a guy flush a fuel tank with suspected FOD in it?

[@JimMFishing]

Not sure what you mean by FOD. I did have to drain my tank due to water intrusion. There is a video on that process. Fortunately, I was using ethanol free gas so that the water stayed separated. If it had been E10, I would have had 30 gallons of useless liquid to dispose of.

[@Alan-tw6yo]

Fod is a airline/military term. It stands for foreign object damage. In this case it means debris in the fuel tank (sand rust pieces of rubber etc. ) in aviation it’s a huge problem where foreign objects ( bolts screws tools loose gravel etc) get sucked up by the engine and can ruin a 10 million dollar powerplant.

[@garyelrod8605]

Your tip on Cresent wrench saved me a ton of time and skin.

[@JimMFishing]

Gary Elrod - I had to rewatch the video to know what that tip was! Glad it helped you with the task.

[@vorkosigan28]

Thank you so much for this video! The trials and tribulations got me to the point i need to pull my intake tube assembly out.

[@JimMFishing]

Glad the video is helping! Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@JonnyUFO]

I'm currently working on this same procedure. I finally got the hose off the anti-syphon valve fitting, but I'm having a more difficult time getting the fuel pickup unscrewed from the tank. I haven't tried that mixture that you were using yet. I might have to give that a try next, thanks.

[@JimMFishing]

JonnyUFO - taking mine off wasn’t easy. I tried to put a wrench on the tank fitting to keep it from moving while removing the fuel pickup. It is almost an impossible task to hold one wrench while turning the pickup fitting. I’ve heard of some using an impact socket when the ASV was broken off / removed that made taking the pickup out much easier. I don’t know if it presents more risk of spinning the tank fitting or not. Good luck and patience!

[@johnbravo2315]

Impact wrench in a gasoline environment could be catastrophic. Better off hand tools.@@JimMFishing

[@wpickens1900]

Hi Jim. Thank you for the video! Seems to be quite a common problem. Can you share the size / thread of the ASV. Would like to be sure I order the right one the first time. An Amazon link would be greatly appreciated.

[@JimMFishing]

William, thank you for watching and for the compliment. I checked my order history but could not find an ASV purchase on Amazon, so I can't say where I bought it or what size the threads are. ~Jim

[@cafthered]

Very helpful video..just had to sort a similar problem..great info thx

[@JimMFishing]

Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad the video was helpful. ~Jim

[@dennismacauley9254]

Jim, great video! And very clever work getting that thing off. You indicated that you did not want your anti-siphon valve to fail. What would happen if it did fail...what would be the symptoms? I also found it interesting that the interior of your fuel lines had deteriorated, restricting flow. I have a twenty year old boat, the fuel lines and anti-siphon valve on which never have been changed. I am troubleshooting an engine hesitation problem (200 hp Yamaha HDPI two stroke) that seems to occur only at high rpm when the boat is rocking up and down over a wake or in moderate to heavy seas. Although we could not find any water in the fuel, we replaced the fuel/water separator, checked the VST and high-pressure fuel pump filter, and jiggled electrical connections with the motor running, etc...did not find the cause of the problem. So I'm looking at the tank and fuel lines now.

[@JimMFishing]

Dennis, Thank you for watching and the comments. I'm a backyard DIYer, not a marine mechanic. I have no specific knowledge of your outboard so do not have any direction in which to point you to. If the ASV were to fail, it might be possible for the ball check in the unit to block fuel flow to the outboard. It also might simply break apart from years of corrosion, dumping fuel out of the hose into the tank coffin but worse not supplying fuel to the motor. I sometimes fish in some rather remote areas in Everglades National Park, seem to be a mosquito magnet and really don't want to find myself spending the night out there due to a failed ASV or any problem for that matter that would prevent me from returning to the marina. I try hard not to rely on my BoatUS towing insurance. Wishing you the best in diagnosing and fixing your issue, ~Jim

[@1stinsonguy]

@@JimMFishing I'm not a gasoline expert, but I've been told that our gasoline these days is not such good quality and can cause problems with anything it touches. My 2-cents. Great video!!! 🤠

[@JorgeHernandez-h3y]

Hi Jim where I can get the parts from?

[@jayspencer270]

Hey great video and exactly what I’m attempting on my ‘04 smokercraft. Question for you… I have gotten the assembly loose and can lift the lifter tube up but it won’t come out of the tank. It seems it may have a filter on the bottom of the tube that’s larger than the tube. I’m afraid to just keep pulling. My first thought is to try to remove the tube from the ASV and reattach it to the new ASV. but that seems quite difficult. Another option being, just cut the tube and let it fall in and live in the gas tank and get a new one. Thoughts?

[@JimMFishing]

Jay, thanks for watching. Sorry for the late response. It is possible there is a filter on the end of the pickup tube but from all I've seen (not that many) there is no filter but a screen pushed up inside the pickup tube. If you pull hard enough and a filter, if present, breaks off, it should not pose any problems except for potentially jamming up a mechanical fuel sender? It certainly would not block the new pickup tube from pulling fuel. Cutting the tube would be similar. Please comment back with what you eventually do so that others may learn something from your situation. ~Jim

[@jayspencer270]

Thank you! I watched a few other videos and got confident to just start pulling and twisting. It did come out. There was a screen on it that was affixed to the outside of the tube with a band of some kind. When I installed the new one I went without any kind of filter or screen. I’ve got a screw on for my water separator that should be plenty of filtration

[@JimMFishing]

@@jayspencer270 Jay, I would have eliminated that exterior screen also. My original pickup tube had a screen on the inside. I removed it and shoved it up inside the replacement pickup tube. I also cut the end of the new tube such that it had an inverted "U" so to speak as did the original. The idea being if the tank top sags and forces the tube to the tank bottom, the tube could still get fuel. A flat cut tube might not be able to pull fuel in that scenario. ~Jim

[@jayspencer270]

@@JimMFishing exactly how I cut mine 👍

[@CajunDagoAdventures]

Thanks for sharing. I think I have to replace mine as I’m having the engine sputter and kill after a minute or so of running off idle. I’ve already replaced all the filters so this is next if I can find mine. Lol Thanks again!

[@JimMFishing]

Thanks for watching and commenting. Another possible cause for poor fuel flow is a collapsed inner liner in your fuel line somewhere from tank to outboard. I had this happen. I always recommend using 2 cycle oil to lubricate both the barb and hose when replacing the hose or reattaching a hose to a fitting. Good luck!

[@Alejandro.Gonzalez245]

I have the same problem, I replaced the vro pump kit, the issues continues, I go to check that

[@JimMFishing]

@@Alejandro.Gonzalez245 From what I understand, the ASV usually fails in the "open" position allowing fuel to drain back into the tank as well as to siphon out if the hose was compromised at a point lower than the fuel level in the tank. It will sometimes fail in such a way it will restrict fuel flow. If adequate fuel flow is your issue, you may want to check the hose from tank to outboard for a collapsed inner liner. This frequently happens with older hoses that have been disconnected from a hose barb and the barb pushes the inner liner away from the main hose and causes it to bunch up. It can also happen when E10 fuel has been used for a while. Always lubricate both the hose and barb with two cycle marine oil before assembling.

[@tdill8195]

My pick up on my boat is about half way unthread and now it won’t loosen or tighten can anyway tell me what need to do by chance before taking it to a boat shop?

[@JimMFishing]

I really can't give any advice other than to continue to soak it in a "nut buster". Hopefully it will give way in one direction or the other so that you can eventually work it out.

[@conniehill550]

Just watched your video and have removed the ASV. Was expecting an actual valve to be inside this 2” part, but I can see completely thru it. Is there a valve somewhere else? Maybe in the fuel line leading to it?

[@JimMFishing]

Connie, these are very simple ASVs. I believe there is a ball bearing or similar inside that moves to the barbed side of the ASV but could be wrong. If you can see thru it, it is definitely not able to function correctly. I do not believe they are capable of completely stopping fuel flow. They are required by USCG regs on below deck tanks to help prevent a compartment flooding with fuel in the event of a hose leak.

[@ivaningram2031]

Same here. Didn't really understand it, no valve. Now I'm thinking if there's no lil valve in this asv then where is it? Blocking the line somewhere? I shall investigate this further.

[@johnwright3178]

I have a 1996 sportsman 1900. How did you get to the inspection port. Did you remove the consol or are you very flexible. Also wondering if converting to 2 six gallon portable tanks. 60 gallons is a lot for a trailered boat. if some one has done this where do they put the tanks.

[@JimMFishing]

John, on my model there is a pie plate style inspection hatch inside the center console. Unscrew the hatch and one has access to the ASV and sender unit. I’m not familiar with your model and where the inspection port would be. I saw your post on the KW boat forum. Personally, having used portable tanks on a previous boat, I would stay with the internal tank and just carry enough fuel plus a reserve for your trips. Remember that the economical 4s engines were not prevalent in 1996. If you’re still inclined to use portables, hopefully you’ll get some feedback on the placement of portable tanks.

[@gregbohonos1771]

I need too replace the big nut what size is it ?

[@JimMFishing]

Greg, Sorry that I didn't see your comment until now. I don't know what size that nut is.

[@garyelrod8605]

What symptoms caused you to replace? Sucking bulb flat? Engine starving?

[@JimMFishing]

Gary, no symptoms. Just trying to prevent a potential disaster given the condition the ASV was in. These parts are out of sight and are subject to corrosion. One of those items that we need to mark for an annual inspection.

[@dylanelks6380]

@@JimMFishing +1 on adding this and other access-hidden components to a periodic inspection/maintenance list. I learned this the hard way recently. Outboard lost fuel prime due to vacuum leak @ sender gasket. With the access open I could hear the air pull into the gasket as I pumped the bulb. Totally stranded, luckily inshore. Truly out of sight out of mind. Put it on the list.

[@crazymc3909]

My bulb and engine was starving all i did was inspect the pick up tub, was in great condition cleaned it replaced the old siphon fuel valve and removed that crappy filter on the bottom of the pick up, then I installed everything back together put a better and bigger filter on the fuel hoes started the engine up and she ran great!

[@crazymc3909]

Now if you see that it has LOTS AND LOTS of corrosion then you replace it, you don’t want that corrosion going to your carburetor and clogging it up

[@Calleronline1-vf1eh]

Its been some time but did you have a ball bearing on check valve?

[@JimMFishing]

Honestly, I don't recall if there was one or not.

[@Calleronline1-vf1eh]

@JimMFishing thank you. I was able to figure it out for mine. I had a spring and ball bearing inside of the pickup head. FYI I found a basin wrench to be a great tool for getting the pickup out of the tank.

[@JimMFishing]

@@Calleronline1-vf1eh thanks for leaving that tip! Hopefully others read through the comments and might find this useful.

[@allenpriddy8828]

Great information and direction in this video, thanks for sharing!!

[@JimMFishing]

Allen, hope it helps!

[@rwjazz1299]

1. get a stubby box end wrench for that pesky fitting. 2. remove the screen entirely. the racor will catch any crud that's in the tank. 3. get a second piece of plastic pick up hose ( but a little longer) same diameter and shove into the fuel tank until it bottoms out. Then, run a softer plastic hose into that temporary pick-up tube until it hits the bottom of the tank. Attach this softer plastic hose ( it needs to be about 3 feet long) to an evacuation pump and suck out any water that may be lurking in the tank. I use a 9 liter MightyVac hand pump. It works. Then clean out your racor. Good to go.

[@JimMFishing]

RW, thanks for the comments. A stubby box end wrench might have worked if enough leverage could be had to turn the fitting. As for removing the screen, I'd rather have the fuel pickup get clogged than trash clog the ASV or (if possible) the fuel hose between the tank and Racor. There are a number of manners in which water can be removed from the tank. I wanted to be absolutely sure I had no water in the tank, thus the process I used. Your idea could also work, but without completely draining the tank there is always the possibility of residual water being left behind. Granted, the Racor water/fuel separator filter should keep it from getting to the engine. If there isn't a sight bowl on the w/f filter, the only way of knowing if there still a water issue would be to keep removing and dumping the filter.

[@rwjazz1299]

@@JimMFishing Some of us simply cannot remove our fuel tanks, so I check my Racor before setting out. I know it's a pain in the ass, but a damaged diesel engine is worse. Anyways. Good job on the new pick up tube. If I knew what I know now about what a well laid out boat looks like, I wouldn't have bought my boat. Come to think of it - I probably wouldn't have bought a boat at all.

[@WaynJul]

Good job and tips. Couldn't you get a wrench on the tank bulkhead fitting to hold it? I am a believer in Kroil also.

[@JimMFishing]

Wayn, there isn’t much room in there that affords keeping a grip on the wrench to keep the bung fitting in place. Fortunately it stayed put. I’ve heard of Kroll but never used it. Whatever would be used for this joint would have to penetrate the gasket sealant. I had hoped the acetone would work in this regard but cannot say whether it did or not.

[@jasonrietdorf9892]

Kroil is the absolute best penetrator but like always hearing new mixture had never heard of the ATF combo. Thankk you. Nice Vid

[@briandevito4826]

HOw did you know to replace the pickup tube and antisiphon? I'm having fuel pressure issues and have replaced everything else. Should I be able to blow back through the fuel line into the valve and tank?

[@JimMFishing]

Brian, the corrosion around the ASV is what drove me to replace both. Not knowing the condition of the pickup tube, I decided to replace it also so that these components that are "out of sight" would not be an issue for several years. I do recommend that you open the access panel and give the ASV a good inspection. Also, whenever you are attaching a fuel hose to a barbed fitting, lubricate both the inside of the hose and the barb very well with two cycle oil. This will help prevent the hose inner liner from separating away from the base hose material. Below deck, ABYC requires two hose clamps on every fuel fitting. Make sure there is appx 1/4" clearance between the clamp and the end of the barb inside the hose. This is to prevent damage of the hose by the barb.

[@raulmora654]

Not sure if i missed it, but what was your reasoning for replacing the hose in the first place? Were you having fuel issues?

[@JimMFishing]

Raul, the fuel hose was replaced a couple years prior. I had replaced a corroded aluminum head fuel/water separator with a stainless unit and had fuel issues shortly afterwards. The engine would idle fine but would bog out after ten seconds or so when trying to get on plane. After replacing the primer bulb, checking the engine fuel filter, rebuilding carbs, you name it, I discovered the inner liner of the fuel hose had separated and collapsed at the separator fitting, severely blocking the inside of the fuel hose and fuel starving the engine when it needed more. The old hose was a Sierra Silverado B1-15 gray jacketed hose that I am sure was not original to the boat. It was replaced with a Parker Wavemaster series A1-15 rated hose, from tank to separator to engine.

[@prochemappspec]

Why not use a brass anti siphon fitting?

[@JimMFishing]

Cory, I have no idea. Most all ASVs are aluminum. Cost? I don’t know.

[@johnbravo2315]

A 12 point socket might work.

[@JimMFishing]

John, could you elaborate on it's use? Doing so might help others who need to replace their ASV.

[@bouldernelsonbigfoot]

Screw the Screen in the pick up. Stupid idea. Keeps crap in your tank and gets clogged in a location with hard access. Add an extra fuel filter somewhere you can access with ease. What if your Fuel P/U gets clogged 20 miles off shore ???

[@JimMFishing]

Boulder, thats your opinion which you are certainly entitled to. There are others that would agree with you, but not everyone. Most fuel tanks would not have enough debris in them to clog a screen filter. The factory obviously felt it was better to have the screen than to not use one. The screen will prevent debris from potentially fouling the ASV which is itself a safety device. I obviously chose to reinstall the screen. I also have a 20 micron water separator filter on the fuel hose before it reaches the outboard.

[@sweetcandy10]

It would be easier if you use a crow foot wrench

[@JimMFishing]

I agree. It's a great suggestion for others. Unfortunately, I don't own a set of that style wrench.

[@kylesullivan4214]

Do u have to use a acv or can u just use a regular fitting ??

[@JimMFishing]

Per USCG regs, if the gas line runs beneath the deck an ASV is required. What you do is up to you.

[@ShuhDonk]

Which part is the anti siphon valve btw? I am having trouble with my tank, the motor/fuel pump can't pump gas out of it, as if its clogged and stalls after a min but works fine on a portable gas tank, so thinking it has something to do with the pickup or venting? **nm, the barb fitting is the anti siphon valve.. gotcha. By the sounds of my symptoms do you think its the pickup assembly/a/s valve? thanks!

[@JimMFishing]

First, thanks for watching and commenting. That out of the way, let me first ask if you have recently removed any of the fuel hoses between the tank and the outboard - from the fuel/water separator, the primer bulb or the engine connection fitting? I ask because if the hose is old and/or wasn't lubricated when reassembled, it is very possible that the inner lining of the hose has collapsed and is restricting the fuel flow. The primer bulbs are known to fail also. When running on the portable tank, are you using a completely separate hose system?

[@ShuhDonk]

@@JimMFishing hey, thanks for the quick reply. I replaced all the fuel lines/clamps and new primer bulb as well from the tank to the motor. Also replaced all fuel lines/clamps on motor/fuel pump/carbs as well as removed and cleaned carbs and rebuilt fuel pump. Tried all that first, then bought a portable tank with new lines and bulb to test with and the portable tank works fine. Boat was sitting for 10 years. Runs great though with portable tank and runs for a min or two with boat fuel tank but can't keep fuel primed on boat tank. Thanks again!

[@tallrugger]

ShuhDonk, I’m having a similar problem as you and have done the same steps. The next thing I’m going to do is change the pickup, screen and ASV as he shows here. In my case, I get fuel and can pump up the bulb fine. But after running for about 5 min or so, engine dies and the bulb runs flat. At that point, I can’t pump it back up. It’s acting like the screen is plugging up and it’s pulling too much vacuum. I’m curious to know how your resolution goes. This is my first time working with a permanent tank. I bought the boat used.

[@JimMFishing]

@@tallrugger - Neal, have you tried opening the fuel fill cap slightly when you experience that problem? That would immediately neutralize any vacuum in the tank, ruling out that as a problem. It would not rule out debris that may be getting caught in the pickup tube / screen and creating similar effect.

[@ShuhDonk]

@@tallrugger I finally got the pickup out of the tank (today) and the pickup tube was disensagrated, so ordered a new one. Have you checked your fuel pump Neal or it could be creating a vacuum in the tank, maybe see if its venting properly? Check for leaks after the primer bulb, check fuel filter?

[@LetsGoFishingSfla]

That fuel fitting gave you a fight. That's a pretty cool idea with the red mixture, gonna try that for sure.

[@JimMFishing]

Definitely was stuck on there. That’s another item crossed off the to do list on the KW.

[@erwinsanchez5315]

Do you know the fitting size on the tank where the pick up tube threads in im not sure what is called ?

[@JimMFishing]

Erwin, I don't recall that nut size. I seem to recall the bung nut being greater than 15/16" as that is the largest wrench I have other than the adjustable wrenches. As for the fuel pickup itself, this is the item that I installed: www.amazon.com/Moeller-Aluminum-Withdrawal-for-Tanks/dp/B0746ZSMZM

[@tmiii3]

What gasket sealer did you use on the anti siphon valve?

[@JimMFishing]

Tommy, I used Permatex 80019 Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant. I'm not an expert in those gasket products, but from my research this one is the most fuel resistant product available. Thanks for watching and commenting, ~Jim.

[@hooked_fish]

Where buy the parts?

[@JimMFishing]

Thanks for watching and commenting. You can buy the parts from Amazon, eBay or other online vendors.

[@jrevington17]

Jim how did you clean the valve? The beginning of the video shows it severely corroded.

[@JimMFishing]

John Revington - I did not clean the fitting intentionally. I may have lightly coated it with the ATF/acetone mixture which could have given it the appearance of having been cleaned.

[@jackrabbit5047]

Thanks for this. I have a Westerbeke diesel in my boat which sometimes acts up (i.e., wants to stall out) when I've run it for a long time. If I pump on he plunger for the primary Racor filter I hear a hissing sound in the fuel tank, and am starting to think perhaps I have a crack in fuel pickup tube which for some reason sucks air into the fuel line, especially when the engine and fuel are warm. What kind of symptom were you experiencing?

[@JimMFishing]

Jack Rabbit - I was not experiencing any fuel delivery issues. I knew this was a potential disaster lurking out of sight and wanted to eliminate that worry. It’s one of those maintenance items that we should all be periodically checking but...out of sight, out of mind. Sorry I can’t offer and advise on your issue.

[@TheGbwebb6407]

I have a hissing sound as well!! My Westerbeke seems to be starving for fuel me as soon as I shut it down, there’s a big hissing sound from one of the fuel tanks

[@bobfarley2969]

What problem was there that made you replace the valve?

[@JimMFishing]

Bob, thanks for watching. No problem, other than the mental one of worrying when it might fail. It was in bad shape and many experience these aluminum valves breaking at the threads. Not something you want to occur away from the dock.

[@melloreel]

Thanks for the information! My Son has this boat, and I’ve spent many hours working on different issues. Haven’t encountered this yet, but I’m sure I will at some point! Were you having any issues other than water in tank that caused you to change these items? If the bung breaks loose will tank have to come out?

[@JimMFishing]

Good questions!! The ASV was a known issue from when I replaced the tank to separator fuel hose. Because it is out of sight except when the access is open, it is also out of mind. Working thru the sender access to remove the water kept this in my mind and there was no better time to replace it. I honestly have no idea what I would have had to do if the bung fitting had loosened.

[@daved6708]

Hi Jim, great video! I've watched it about 10 times as I will be replacing my pick up tube/A/S valve. Question for you, did the Ed's Red end up penetrating the threads? The reason I ask is I think Moeller, the tank manufacturer used Teflon tape to seal the threads which is acetone resistant. Thanks

[@JimMFishing]

Dave, I honestly do not know if the Ed's Red made any difference. Mentally it did, and I believe physically but cannot state positively that it helped break the seal. My fuel pickup had a sealant on the threads. I have heard not to use teflon tape in gasoline contact areas as it can shred and send pieces downstream into your critical components. You should confirm that yourself though. The recommended sealant when replacing is the Permatex Aviation No. 3 sealant, which is resistant to gasoline. Here is a good article on what to use: www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=563

[@daved6708]

@@JimMFishing Thanks for the reply, I tried to freeze your video to see if I could see the solvent on the threads once the fitting was removed. Do you recall if the sealant stuck to the female threads on the bung fitting - i.e., did you need to clean out any residual sealant prior to re-installing the new fitting? Thanks again.

[@JimMFishing]

@@daved6708 ` its been a while but I do not recall having to clean the threads of the bung fitting. I applied the Aviation form-a-gasket to both the bung fitting and the fuel pickup threads, waited about 5 minutes per the directions and installed the fuel pickup.

[@crazymc3909]

I don’t know if this is my issue but I filled my tank up with gas and it won’t pump up through the hose, I’m guessing it’s the filter on the bottom clogged

[@JimMFishing]

Crazymc3, my fuel pickup tube had (and still has) a screen to prevent larger debris from entering the hose. With enough trash, it could easily become clogged. It is also possible that the ASV could stick closed but a low probability. One other item to check is the fuel hose itself from tank to fuel/water separator to primer bulb to outboard. With age, the inner liner can collapse, especially if you have removed the hose and reattached it. I replaced my hose from tank to outboard due to this happening. If you do remove any fuel hose, be sure to lubricate both the hose and the barb with 2 cycle oil to help prevent the inner liner from separating and collapsing.

[@crazymc3909]

@@JimMFishing my engines a inboard I bought my boat a couple months ago first time I start it up it ran great then the fuel barb got stuck closed and gas wouldn’t go threw it, so I replaced that started it up and it ran great

[@daveperson1722]

THank you Jim......... was Perfect imho ! ....great job !

[@JimMFishing]

Thanks Dave. Hope it helped!! ~Jim

[@gipiac]

Hi Jim Where did you get these fittings from? I’m unable to locate these parts Great video thank you for posting !

[@JimMFishing]

Jon Baz - both the pickup and ASV were purchased off Amazon.

[@gipiac]

Thank you Jim for your reply !

[@joshuasmith8189]

@@JimMFishing do you have a link for these parts?

[@allandoell1025]

Great video! Helped me fix my fuel problem on my boat!

[@JimMFishing]

Allan, thanks for watching, the compliment and for letting me know that the video helped. That's the reason I post these DIY videos. ~Jim

[@allandoell1025]

@@JimMFishing I published a video on troubleshooting my boat fuel system problems. I show some diagnostic tests on the new ASV, used to confirm it was working. You can view my video by doing a KZbin search on 'Changing an Anti-siphon Valve on a 1982 Sylvan Pro Fisherman'. I hope you enjoy my video.

[@thecentralscrutinizerr]

My problem is the fuel primer bulb is compressing when giving the engine more rpms which means 1. The checkvalve in the primer bulb is bad. 2. The wrong primer bulb was installed for the fuel pressure PSI generated by the fuel pump. 3. Both 1 and 2. 4. The Fuel Intake Tube is clogged. 5. The Fuel Tank vent is clogged. 6. All of the above. Since my boat is also over 20 years old, the obvious answer is going to be 6. (‾◡◝) What's the difference between a DIYer who can diagnose and make repairs themselves and a boat mechanic? About $110.00 per hour.

[@JimMFishing]

Central, I like your DIY analysis! Remember that when you are working with these fuel hoses, there is an internal sleeve the fuel flows thru that can become separated from the rest of the hose, resulting in diminished fuel flow if it doesn't completely stop flow. Always use 2 cycle oil to lubricate both the hose and the fitting when reconnecting. Also, beneath the deck, ABYC requires two hose clamps on each fuel fitting. Good luck finding your problem!

[@crazymc3909]

I really didn’t have to replace the whole thing. Cleaned the tub up nicely removed that crappy small filter on the bottom and replaced the valve where the hoes goes installed a actual GOOD fuel filter on the gas hoes started the mercruiser 350, 5.7 V8 ran great. At first it was STARVING for fuel!! (The cheapest, best way to do it instead of replacing the whole thing)

[@JimMFishing]

Glad to hear it turned out successful! Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@allencogar8658]

Thank you Jim.....Big help!!

[@JimMFishing]

Thanks, Allen.

[@allencogar8658]

@@JimMFishing Now if I can just get the fuel sensor replaced I'll be good to go. I think if I remove it and purchase new one of like size based on existing measurements it should be straight forward. I have 2005 1720 Sportsman.

[@JimMFishing]

@@allencogar8658 - Allen, your 1720 should have a 31 gallon poly tank. The 31 gallon tank (poly or alum) takes a 5.5" sender unit. I highly recommend the KUS unit. Be careful when unscrewing the old and when screwing the new that you do not cross thread the metal sleeves molded into the tank. You may want to put a drop of corrosion inhibitor into each sleeve if there is any corrosion (white ash like substance) present. The hole pattern on the sender flange is not uniform - there is a specific offset so that the sender can only be installed in one orientation. Be sure that you have it correct. Align the gasket to the tank, noting where the small indicator hole on the gasket is pointing. Remove and align the gasket and sender indicator holes, then place in the orientation previously noted. The float was very tight going into my tank's opening - make sure the float is completely thru the opening and can move freely inside the tank. Tighten the screws securely but don't over tighten. If the screws you use to reinstall have a sealant or O ring beneath the heads, you want to see just a small bit of expansion when they are installed.

[@charlesronk2989]

Thank you. Good tips.

[@JimMFishing]

Thanks for watching and commenting, Charles.

[@camcarter9733]

The best penetrating oil I have ever used is Kroll oil my pick up look worse than yours 2 sprays came out with no problem now that fill hose diffent story but it wasn't to bad made a special tool for the job

[@JimMFishing]

Cam Carter - thanks for watching and commenting. I’m now of the opinion these fittings should be changed on a regular schedule. I also intend to spray it with Fluid Film to protect it.

[@JimMFishing]

Speaking of that fill hose.... I haven’t had to tackle that yet. I know it will be a difficult job based on info I’ve read on the KW boat’s forum. I’m hoping that using Rec90 will delay that project for many, MANY years.

[@camcarter9733]

I used liquid marine electric tape coated those fittings there still looking very clean it seems to be holding up pretty good

[@johnmonkey1874]

Great video! Now do replacing hydraulic fuel hoses on a John Deere 911 62" 40 year-old zero turn riding mower! LMAO Just kidding. Seriously though, very nice, informative video. It's the kind of stuff I will bet money will save someone a huge headache down the line. Much appreciated. By the way, don'cha always hate how engineers put these things together with no forethought as to how a common guy can get to the parts, or "can't" get to them in this case? I wish people in charge of designing boats and other vehicles would pay attention to things like this. Anyway, have a good day.

[@JimMFishing]

John, thanks for watching and commenting. I often agree with your thoughts on how engineers design things without any forethought or care of how a DIYer might be able to service the item. Boats are a much different than cars, where this really applies, but still some things might could be better done with minimal extra cost. ~Jim

[@mikedumas2018]

Great job ! Thank you !

[@JimMFishing]

Mike, Thanks for the compliment and for viewing / commenting.

[@50shadesofblue24]

Great video!

[@JimMFishing]

Thank you!

[@50shadesofblue24]

@@JimMFishing Just started spraying mine today with PB Blaster. Hopefully it breaks free in a few days

[@prestonwrouse7266]

i feel sorry for your hands , after seeing this Ill use gloves, that floor is sharp.

[@JimMFishing]

Preston, you are correct in that those raw fiberglass edges can leave some marks. Best to use a wide tape and tape the edges. Thanks for commenting!

[@bouldernelsonbigfoot]

Acetone , DO NOT USE IT ANY WHERE NEAR A PLASTIC TANK.

[@JimMFishing]

Boulder, a good caution however if applied very carefully as was shown in this video, it can be used safely. This was a mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid at a 1:1 ratio. BTW, acetone is one of the primary components of a well known formula for cleaning firearms - Ed's Red.

[@debnimmo5998]

Way TOOOO slow

[@JimMFishing]

OK.