My boat is fiberglass sitting on an aluminum trailer. The trailer has some galvanized attachments (the axle for example). I only rinse the trailer - after it is launched and again after I move away from the retrieval area to secure the boat for transport.

@@grantscott8429 Again, thank you for watching and commenting. I’m guessing the warmer months are upon you as well as the boating season. I sincerely hope you’re able to quickly wrap up the project and get out on the water. All the best, ~ Jim

@grantscott8429 - Grant, first thank you for watching and commenting. I am not sure what small sleeve you are referring to in the "seal cap". I do not recall having a sleeve incorporated in the tilt cap, and do not see one on the particular trim/tilt assembly referenced in the exploded parts diagram found at this link: www.boats.net/catalog/yamaha/outboard/2002/90hp/90tlra/power-trim-tilt-assy I have rewatched the video beginning at 19:22 and do not see anything similar to what you describe. No steps, other than the removal of the valve body from the ram, were missed in this video. Please keep in mind that I am not a mechanic by trade, simply a DIYer who filmed this procedure for my own benefit and that of others. Are you working on the same trim/tilt model as the one shown in this video? There are many variants used on Yamaha outboards. ~Jim

All good. There is a sleeve pin in the bottom part of the cap which I guesses went into the shift but when I actually broke the tension using your idea of drill and driver in the holes it came apart. Now I have to figure out why the top cap dust seal on one trim r is leaking when all were replaced and the other trim and the tilt ram are fine. Suspect the main O ring is letting fluid through

@ check that there is no scoring / abrasion / rust on the trim ram that could be wearing the seal.

@@scotthall6518 thank you Scott for the compliment and for watching the video. Glad it helped.

@@scotthall6518 Scott, want to thank you again for the compliments and for watching. I’m just trying to pass forward all the help I’ve had in my life with DIY projects

@@10ring thank you for watching and for the compliment!

@@jabergess thanks for watching and commenting!!

@@andrewbarbier591 the part numbers are listed in the video’s description. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@noahkleinholz5164 I cut a 4” hole high up in the forward anchor locker wall. This only works on pre-2016/17 models where the anchor locker is on the high deck and not on the same deck as the forward storage hatch.

@@fishonkayakadventure I am not a mechanic by trade so I cannot give much information on your comment. I have used torque wrenches for close to 50 years and have not seen any degradation in observed accuracy when used as a breaker bar if nothing else is available. I do appreciate your observation as well as your watching the video. If you would, please edit out the profanity in your comment. Many thanks, ~Jim

@@stigjohannessen9648 Norway! Wow! Thanks for watching and commenting. Glad the video helped. ~Jim

Thanks for watching and commenting. I don't have much luck with YT's notifications either. I haven't been back on the water since that video. Both the air and water temps are too hot. If you can't enjoy yourself out there, wait until you can. I'll get back out on the water as the temps cool down.

Glad the video is helping! Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks for watching and for commenting. I have no idea why a repair shop would make that statement. If the job is done correctly, the seals will last a long time. I'm over four years now and no weeping.

Thanks for watching and for your comment. There is a lot of measuring going on to make sure everything will work when in place. Measure, measure, measure, then drill. While the installation was outside, wearing a mask is a good recommendation.

Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad the video was helpful. ~Jim

Thank you, for both watching the video and for commenting! ~Jim

@@johnfreeman8537 Thank you John! If this project is on your horizon, I hope the video proves useful.

Honestly, I don't recall if there was one or not.

@JimMFishing thank you. I was able to figure it out for mine. I had a spring and ball bearing inside of the pickup head. FYI I found a basin wrench to be a great tool for getting the pickup out of the tank.

@@Calleronline1-vf1eh thanks for leaving that tip! Hopefully others read through the comments and might find this useful.

Thanks Christian! Definitely was good to be back on the water. Need to get you out there with me!

Frank, thanks for hanging with the channel during my absence. We did have a great time out there, just wish the fish were more cooperative. I remember checking the water temps at one location and could not believe how warm the water was. And this was in May!

Icy, it's been much too long as you know. Things are beginning to settle down some here at home, so we'll hopefully be back out there sooner rather than later. We're both needing that outlet! BTW, loved the "wig" comment! Good thing I wasn't working a cup of coffee!

@@JimMFishing😂. We’ll be out there soon enough doing what we do best - bitchin and complaining about all the jacks we keep catching. 🤣🤣🤣

Thanks Mark! It was a great feeling, both being back out there on the water and also having my son along with me. I hope to make the trips much more often starting in a couple months.

Thanks Charles! It was a great feeling to be back out, and with my son! Give me another couple months and it should become a regular habit!

Jeff, as I stated it was SO GOOD to be back out on the water. It'll be another couple of months before I can get back out, but it's definitely going to happen!

I thought I had already replied but YT today does not show it. Congratulations on your 1720 purchase. You'll find it is a great boat for near shore and inshore fishing and water activities. As for the electrical diagram, I created it myself based on the factory wiring and modifications I've made. There is no factory wiring diagram available that I am aware of.

dr, thanks for watching and commenting with a very useful suggestion. It's a fairly easy job when undertaken with patience.

@@JimMFishing the repair went well. Really appreciate you sharing the points that gave you consternation. That helped me avoid some potential problems. Did have one minor holdup during the install of new motor. The forward bolt fell between the cylinder and the jack plate and wedged. I had to make a quick run out to the hardware store and purchase a set of mechanical fingers to retrieve the bolt. After that, all went well.

@@drbankston Those "grabbers" are a mechanic's friend!

Thanks for watching and the compliment!

Ivan, thank you for watching and for your comment. Very glad you were able to get the outboard repaired. ~Jim

I honestly would be guessing. If you can apply pressure behind the head to help the threads as you turn it, it may come out. I’d consider retapping the reservoir if you can extract the plug. Wishing you success, Jim

Rob, thanks for commenting and for sharing your experience. I am hoping that future viewers will read thru the comments to gleam more useful information to apply to their particular situation.

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Robert, sorry to hear of your injury. As you could see in the video, patience and persistence is what worked for me. Just be careful not to scratch the metal of the cap.

Thanks for the compliment!

Kevin, thanks for watching and commenting. I'll need your email address to send you a copy of the diagram.

Apologies for a late response as I just today saw your comment. The C90 service manual does not list a torque spec for the caps.

Sorry for a late reply. I do not recall as that has been many years ago.

Seychelles, thank you very much for watching and commenting. That was the purpose of the video, and I am still helping people many years later. I suppose it should not be surprising that this video has had the most views of any video I have produced.

Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment. I try to keep it as real as I can. I am obviously a backyard mechanic, not a trained or certified mechanic.

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you Michael. If you tackle the job, I hope it helps. ~Jim

English please

Apologies for such a delay in commenting. I have no idea why your comment did not previously show. Hopefully you have already successfully completed this task. I had seepage from both so I replaced them. If you don't have seepage, there is no real reason to possibly create a problem. That said, the seals do age and while your hands are in there, you may as well do them all. No, I do not loan out my tools. I learned that lesson several decades ago.

@JimMFishing I was kidding about the tool part. LOL I did the job a few months back having followed your instruction from the video. I bought the tools and a 5 Star Marine kit and did all three. I really worked myself up about getting the caps off. Fortunately for me they had been done at some time in the past so they were not still at the "Factory tighter than hell torque settings" anymore. Really a rather simple job after you showed us the way. Thank you so much for giving all of your fellow DIYers confidence in doing something like this. Expensive ($225 with parts and special tools) but not as expensive as having it done in a boat shop.

@@mapquest681 Thanks for coming back and letting us know you successfully completed replacing all the caps. Yes, the cost of the tools is high. But as you stated, the investment allows you to save quite a bit over boat shop prices AND you're not waiting for potentially months without being able to use your boat. If those seals ever leak again, the next replacement will be much less expensive! Good Job!! ~Jim

Tim, it’s been a while since I did that job. The parts were bought from either boats.net, crowleymarine.com.

10ring, thank you for watching and commenting. Comment back and let everybody know how the job went.

Craig, thanks for watching and commenting. Patience is a very useful tool when replacing that motor. ~Jim

Its been too long ago to say. They were purchased on line, most likely from Amazon or EBay. Search for 3" round transom light. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for the comment and for watching. Just keep in mind that if the ramp is busy, others may be a bit impatient.

Will, thank you for watching, and for the compliment. I do not know the best way to replace the manual relief valve screw. It may require a full disassembly of the T/T unit. I am not a mechanic, just a DIYer so I really cannot answer your question.