Thanks for watching and commenting! Glad the video was helpful. ~Jim

Thank you, for both watching the video and for commenting! ~Jim

@@johnfreeman8537 Thank you John! If this project is on your horizon, I hope the video proves useful.

Honestly, I don't recall if there was one or not.

@JimMFishing thank you. I was able to figure it out for mine. I had a spring and ball bearing inside of the pickup head. FYI I found a basin wrench to be a great tool for getting the pickup out of the tank.

@@Calleronline1-vf1eh thanks for leaving that tip! Hopefully others read through the comments and might find this useful.

Thanks Christian! Definitely was good to be back on the water. Need to get you out there with me!

Frank, thanks for hanging with the channel during my absence. We did have a great time out there, just wish the fish were more cooperative. I remember checking the water temps at one location and could not believe how warm the water was. And this was in May!

Icy, it's been much too long as you know. Things are beginning to settle down some here at home, so we'll hopefully be back out there sooner rather than later. We're both needing that outlet! BTW, loved the "wig" comment! Good thing I wasn't working a cup of coffee!

@@JimMFishing😂. We’ll be out there soon enough doing what we do best - bitchin and complaining about all the jacks we keep catching. 🤣🤣🤣

Thanks Mark! It was a great feeling, both being back out there on the water and also having my son along with me. I hope to make the trips much more often starting in a couple months.

Thanks Charles! It was a great feeling to be back out, and with my son! Give me another couple months and it should become a regular habit!

Jeff, as I stated it was SO GOOD to be back out on the water. It'll be another couple of months before I can get back out, but it's definitely going to happen!

I thought I had already replied but YT today does not show it. Congratulations on your 1720 purchase. You'll find it is a great boat for near shore and inshore fishing and water activities. As for the electrical diagram, I created it myself based on the factory wiring and modifications I've made. There is no factory wiring diagram available that I am aware of.

dr, thanks for watching and commenting with a very useful suggestion. It's a fairly easy job when undertaken with patience.

@@JimMFishing the repair went well. Really appreciate you sharing the points that gave you consternation. That helped me avoid some potential problems. Did have one minor holdup during the install of new motor. The forward bolt fell between the cylinder and the jack plate and wedged. I had to make a quick run out to the hardware store and purchase a set of mechanical fingers to retrieve the bolt. After that, all went well.

@@drbankston Those "grabbers" are a mechanic's friend!

Thanks for watching and the compliment!

Ivan, thank you for watching and for your comment. Very glad you were able to get the outboard repaired. ~Jim

I honestly would be guessing. If you can apply pressure behind the head to help the threads as you turn it, it may come out. I’d consider retapping the reservoir if you can extract the plug. Wishing you success, Jim

Rob, thanks for commenting and for sharing your experience. I am hoping that future viewers will read thru the comments to gleam more useful information to apply to their particular situation.

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Robert, sorry to hear of your injury. As you could see in the video, patience and persistence is what worked for me. Just be careful not to scratch the metal of the cap.

Thanks for the compliment!

Kevin, thanks for watching and commenting. I'll need your email address to send you a copy of the diagram.

Apologies for a late response as I just today saw your comment. The C90 service manual does not list a torque spec for the caps.

Sorry for a late reply. I do not recall as that has been many years ago.

Seychelles, thank you very much for watching and commenting. That was the purpose of the video, and I am still helping people many years later. I suppose it should not be surprising that this video has had the most views of any video I have produced.

Thank you for watching and I appreciate your comment. I try to keep it as real as I can. I am obviously a backyard mechanic, not a trained or certified mechanic.

Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thank you Michael. If you tackle the job, I hope it helps. ~Jim

English please

Apologies for such a delay in commenting. I have no idea why your comment did not previously show. Hopefully you have already successfully completed this task. I had seepage from both so I replaced them. If you don't have seepage, there is no real reason to possibly create a problem. That said, the seals do age and while your hands are in there, you may as well do them all. No, I do not loan out my tools. I learned that lesson several decades ago.

@JimMFishing I was kidding about the tool part. LOL I did the job a few months back having followed your instruction from the video. I bought the tools and a 5 Star Marine kit and did all three. I really worked myself up about getting the caps off. Fortunately for me they had been done at some time in the past so they were not still at the "Factory tighter than hell torque settings" anymore. Really a rather simple job after you showed us the way. Thank you so much for giving all of your fellow DIYers confidence in doing something like this. Expensive ($225 with parts and special tools) but not as expensive as having it done in a boat shop.

@@mapquest681 Thanks for coming back and letting us know you successfully completed replacing all the caps. Yes, the cost of the tools is high. But as you stated, the investment allows you to save quite a bit over boat shop prices AND you're not waiting for potentially months without being able to use your boat. If those seals ever leak again, the next replacement will be much less expensive! Good Job!! ~Jim

Tim, it’s been a while since I did that job. The parts were bought from either boats.net, crowleymarine.com.

10ring, thank you for watching and commenting. Comment back and let everybody know how the job went.

Craig, thanks for watching and commenting. Patience is a very useful tool when replacing that motor. ~Jim

Its been too long ago to say. They were purchased on line, most likely from Amazon or EBay. Search for 3" round transom light. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for the comment and for watching. Just keep in mind that if the ramp is busy, others may be a bit impatient.

Will, thank you for watching, and for the compliment. I do not know the best way to replace the manual relief valve screw. It may require a full disassembly of the T/T unit. I am not a mechanic, just a DIYer so I really cannot answer your question.

Johnny, thank you for commenting, and for the compliment. Oh, the rain. Living in Miami, we deal with it almost daily from May to November. It’s a part of our life.

@@JimMFishing lol, I live NW of Orlando so I know the monsoon season in Florida

Thank you for watching and commenting. Patience is key, don't rush any part of the job. ~Jim

@@JimMFishing Yes sir you’re welcome

Thanks Dave. Hope it helped!! ~Jim

Sorry for the late response. I did not see the comment come thru on my phone. I honestly do not know what the difference would be between the two ATF fluids, although in transmissions the fluid will make a definite difference. I doubt the fluid is your issue, but not being a mechanic and being there in person, I really cannot say. Is the manual relief valve closed? If it is not closed, the hydraulic pressure cannot build within the cylinders to operate the rams.

@@JimMFishing My tilt/trim cylinders got new seals and they work fine now! I've owned the boat/motor since 2007 and this is probably the first time the seals have been replaced.

@@williamwhite9767 William, glad to hear that all is working as they should be!

Sorry for the late response. Hope it helps! Thanks for watching and commenting.

Paul, your parents advice is true in many situations. I've done so myself numerous times. Thanks for watching and commenting, ~Jim

Jay, thanks for watching. Sorry for the late response. It is possible there is a filter on the end of the pickup tube but from all I've seen (not that many) there is no filter but a screen pushed up inside the pickup tube. If you pull hard enough and a filter, if present, breaks off, it should not pose any problems except for potentially jamming up a mechanical fuel sender? It certainly would not block the new pickup tube from pulling fuel. Cutting the tube would be similar. Please comment back with what you eventually do so that others may learn something from your situation. ~Jim

Thank you! I watched a few other videos and got confident to just start pulling and twisting. It did come out. There was a screen on it that was affixed to the outside of the tube with a band of some kind. When I installed the new one I went without any kind of filter or screen. I’ve got a screw on for my water separator that should be plenty of filtration

@@jayspencer270 Jay, I would have eliminated that exterior screen also. My original pickup tube had a screen on the inside. I removed it and shoved it up inside the replacement pickup tube. I also cut the end of the new tube such that it had an inverted "U" so to speak as did the original. The idea being if the tank top sags and forces the tube to the tank bottom, the tube could still get fuel. A flat cut tube might not be able to pull fuel in that scenario. ~Jim

@@JimMFishing exactly how I cut mine 👍

From Italy?? Thank you for watching and commenting! The tools for removing the caps can be found at: marinetech.com/professional-marine-tools/trim-tilt-wrenches/yamaha.html. You can tell them that I sent you to their website! The tools for this specific Yamaha model are MT0004 (tilt cap) and MT0006 (trim caps). Use the supplied S-4 pins. This information, along with other parts information, can be found in the video's description section. ~Jim

Kyst, thanks for watching and commenting. Yes, I removed the port nav light and using a fashioned wire hook, pulled the TM wiring out that hole (maybe 1" in diameter). I used proper reducing crimps (6 to 8) and a borrowed electrician's crimper made for that size crimps, to add the extra wire. Thank you also for the well wishes. I'm personally doing well.

John, thanks for adding that information. It may prove very helpful to others who are in a difficult position of access.

Ned, thank you for your comment. I don't know how similar your Suzuki will be to a Yamaha. I do hope that the video gives you enough guidance to accomplish the job with both time and $$$ savings.

Jim, Mission accomplished! I received in the replacement trim motor, it took 45 minutes to install and is working like a champ. Thanks for the encouragement. Ned@@JimMFishing

@@neddufrene7281 Very glad that project was successful. Now it’s time to get back out on the water!

John, could you elaborate on it's use? Doing so might help others who need to replace their ASV.

Chad, that is the diverter valve selector lever and the raw water washdown hose connection. If the original plumbing remains in the bilge, the 500gph Rule pump sends water to a black plastic diverter valve operated by a cable to the selector lever (what you observed over the starboard aft compartment). Most likely, the cable (similar to a bicycle brake/gear cable) is long rusted / frozen and not operational. The diverter valve determined whether the pump's output was sent to the raw water hose connection (a very weak flow and of little use) or to the live well inlet.

Allen, the tilt cap is not available as a separate piece. If you look at an exploded parts diagram, you will see that it is only available as an assembly. That is unfortunate as I am sure, there are many who would have liked to have purchased just the tilt cap, like you can do with the trim side of the unit.

Thanks for watching and commenting!