Fuel Regulators Explained

Whether you use Natural Gas or Propane, your stove, oven or bar-b-que must use a fuel regulator to properly condition the line fuel pressure and deliver predictable results.

[@edwardkanze6502]

Excellent video! Thank you. I watched many, but yours was the only one that cast a clear light for me on what had been a murky subject. You explain how things work, why they work that way, and generally zero in on the kind of information that's helpful. Keep up the fine work!

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Thanks for the kind comment. I used to be a technical writer, so I present these videos with the same kind of discipline.

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

Thanks! Best explanation I've found.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours.

[@randalosgood]

Thank you! have tried other videos on this topic but three minutes in I realize they had left something crucial out. Checked my regulator and it was indeed set for NG rather than propane - which is what I needed. Thank you thank you thank you.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@jakeviveros9439]

I started this video trying to figure out what the arrow meant, but you didn’t explain it When I was getting ready to stop watching, you caught that you didn’t explain it and explained it. God bless you.🙏🤣

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can also text or pix message me there anytime.

[@seanmcaleavy2369]

Very informative and helpful. Thanks!

[@olusabaolukayode9191]

Great and amazing video. I really gained a lot from your lecture. Thank you for your painstaking work more grease to your elbow.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours.

[@Hever73]

THANKS FOR SHARING THIS INFORMATION WHICH LIKE A PRO LEVEL!

[@HerkCC]

Excellent video ! You provided great detail that will make my conversion easier.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Make sure to like and subscribe to my channel.

[@VedafoneYT]

Nice and powerful presentation... Thanks

[@cognitiumone]

This video was super helpful to me. I bought a used range that I was converting to LP but it has a commercial regulator on it and I thought it was missing the plastic plunger to press up against the spring to increase the pressure. Turns out I just needed to reverse the cap!

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and bar-b-que unit made. I'm in the Mid West, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@siuealangi9624]

Best video on regulators. Thank you for taking time to share.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Thanks for the positive reply. I get a lot of a-holes on here that don't know their ass from a hole in the ground...

[@siuealangi9624]

@@frankhamilton8257your post helps a lot because I'm converting a stove oven from Natural gas to LP. And your answer to double regulators is a n extra. So thank you for your help. Forget the nay sayers, they're just there to confirm that your stuff's legit. Again, thank you.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Thank you. Contact me if your can't find the orifices, I have orifices for fit just about everything made. Contact 714-574-1544. Remember that I'm on the West Coast if your call.

[@carolsloanes4938]

Very informative, now I think I know what needs adjusting on my hob to change jets from burning gas orange to blue. Thank you.

[@frankhamilton8257]

If you're converting from natural gas to propane or vice versa, there are two or three things that need to be changed; the fuel regulator (either converted or changed all together), the orifices and the air shutter (or other type of air inlets). I deal in the regulator and the orifices. I have every type of orifice made, so please feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. I'm in the West Coast time zone, so call during normal business hours.

[@Ivan-qq6dj]

awesome video and very power education diffrences of type of reg, Thank you so much for this kind video you just educated me and may god bless you and your family

[@snownbil]

Thanks Frank! Great information!!

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually carry orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@natefidalgo7625]

Nice explanation of different types and where you adjust the regulators at. Usually the gas regulators i have seen on the natural gas meters are fix non-adjustable for obvious reasons. And for stationary propane grills there usually non-adjustable and seem to need a simple converter kit which just switches out the regulator and orifice valves to convert from propane to natural gas/visa-versa. Good to see a demonstration of the major types...curious where those all for cooking/ranger/oven/grill appliances. Because the last one looked like an LP version of a forced hot air furnace unit type.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Yes, these are all used on various commercial and consumer cooking appliances. Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and bar-b-que unit made. I'm in the Mid West, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544

[@Ivan-qq6dj]

In these profession we must be very well educated or will face the fact of over PSIG and could cause a EXPLOSION if we or not very tech and profession b/4 buying the proper reg installation and reviewing for gas leak with water spray with soap to bubble if it needs to be address spike leaks of FLAMABLE gas will ignite and" WILL KILLEDOR BRING DOWN THE BUILDING AND MOST IMPORTANT LOST OF HUMAN LIFE". Thank you again for this awesome education .

[@bugbomb8048]

This was an excellent video

[@frankhamilton8257]

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@MobinSG]

Thanks alot 👍

[@nocompromisecatholicfaithful]

Excellent video. Very informative. I just bought a gas/propane generator that has the hose with attached regulator that fits the 20 lb propane tanks. Basically, it's the hose with attached regulator that is used on a typical porch propane grill like you slowed at the beginning of this video. I wanted to hook up the generator to my 500 gallon propane tank, so I ran to a local propane shop in town here. They unscrewed and took off the brass fitting fit for the 20 lb tank, along with the big black knob that also screws onto the 20 lb tank. They, then, put on the new brass fitting that fits straight into the 500 gallon tank on the end of the generator/grill hose with no extra regulator other than the one fixed to the hose and said that should work. It does fit into the 500 propane tank. But, my question is, should i be concerned before hooking it up and opening the 500 gallon tank valve that the only regulator is the one that is on the hose? Like i said, it's only one of those propane grill regulators on the hose that has been modified with a different propane tank fitting at the end so that it could now fit into the 500 gallon tank. Thanks, and awesome video that breaks things down into digestible pieces for dummies like me!

[@frankhamilton8257]

I deal with a lot of people who install appliances on master propane systems that provide a centralized propane source for all of their appliances. In your case, the appliance is a generator, but the theory and discipline are the same. I always advise installing individual propane regulators for each appliance. You mentioned you had a regulator that was integrated into a hose. Typically a hose regulator is rated at 11" WC, while a fixed regulator (not a variable one) is rated at 10" WC. You would need to install a propane regulator without a hose. It would be advisable to install a commercial regulator for this application. Not all commercial regulators are adjustable, many are fixed because I provide all kinds of regulators to specifically suit the needs of the application. I do conversions on everything and have orificesa and regulators to fit all applications. Feel free to call me at 714-574-1544.

[@jamiemcbane]

On your regular barbecue regulator the end that attaches to the barbecue, what size is it. Which type and size of male do I need to get to connect to my 3/8 copper tubing from my RV stove to screw into that regulator hose? Thx

[@spelunkerd]

When the upstream supply valve is initially opened, with little resistance to flow, these springs must snap shut. Do they ever 'stick' shut in that situation, as a safety feature? Not understanding how these work, when opening a barbecue propane tank, sometimes I'll close the supply valve shut and reopen it, with the thought that the mechanism will work better if the pressures on both sides are closer to operating pressures. Am I wasting my time doing that?

[@alselby5525]

Thanks for your informative video. I was able to pick out a Maxitrol regulator needed to convert my Broilmaster P3 from NG to LP. Unfortunately, I have already replace the orifices or I would picked them up from you.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@andychi1659]

I bought a liquid propane stove and it came with the maxitrol regulator and would like to connect it to a standard propane tank. I was wondering do you know what parts I need and instructions for how to connect it? Thanks.

[@matthewrosen5717]

Great video Frank. I got my offices, and regulator switched over. My question is do you need a regulator leaving the bottle prior to going into the equipment regulator? Reason I ask is I’m running two pieces of equipment a counter top stove, and a fryer. Both have their own regulator but they both say they are only rated for 1/2 psi any more will mess them up. So would I put a regulator leaving the bottle to lower the psi? It’s now Lp 100lb bottle. Thanks. Love your videos!

[@frankhamilton8257]

If the regulator at the propane bottle is a normal type of propane fuel tank regulator, then it's rated at 11"WC. The equipment regulators are likely 10"WC (they might also be adjustable if they're commercial regulators dedicated to LP). If they are fixed regulators, there should be no conflict between the two so long as the equipment regulators are rated at 10"WC. Still, it's best to get a straight tank connector without a regulator to eliminate any possible conflicts between dueling regulators.

[@plugger410]

Thanks so much for this video. I bought a used grill that someone was trying to convert over to natural gas and was having issues with it, converting back to LP. Just realized I needed to flip that little white piece over inside the regulator. My question is, if I have a regulator like the first one, do you need the other regulator on the actual propane hose right before it connects to the bottle? It was missing the hose when I got it, but still had the original regulator on the wall, inside the door. It’s a pretty big grill, a Jenn Air 720- 0727, so it has like 8 burners and an oven, 115K BTU total. I had read about 1st and 2nd stage regulators or 2 stage regulators and wasn’t sure if I should have a second one. Thanks!

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made and I have parts for everything made, especially Jennaire. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. Propane is actually compressed into such a dense package that's it becomes liquid inside the bottle and it become a gas when released into the atmosphere because ambient temperatures are well beyond it's boiling point (-40 degrees F at sea level). The contents of this bottle is an ultra pressurized fuel (somewhere on the order of 80 psi if you were to rate it as such). The only type of regulator that can handle this type of extreme incoming pressure is a barbecue type regulator. All barbecue type regulators aren't created equal. Some types have an output well beyond 11" WC, so make sure you have the correct regulator (usually a type like you'd find at Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware with a hose on it. If you have a bottle mounted underneath the grille, you'll want to remove the second regulator to eliminate any possibility of a conflict between the regulators. The two stage regulator you've referred to is a completely different animal that has two regulators in one housing and is typically used for commercial applications (refrigeration being one of them). The regulator is only part of the equation. You'll also need to match the heat range of each orifice to the rating of each burner as designed. It's likely that these orifices were hogged out to a new size to accommodate natural gas, so they're useless for propane if that's the case. the only way you'll know for sure if the orifices are intact is to use a set of numbered drill bits (like the type you can get at Harbor Freight Tools) to gauge the bores. I machine the specialized rotisserie orifice (the most critical one, and potentially, the most dangerous one if it's not bored to the right size). If I recall, there's also a radiant burner (similar to the ceramic rotisserie burner) in the bay of that unit as well so you'll want to gauge that that orifice is also on the money. I believe that unit has a larger than usual rotisserie burner rated at 13,000 BTU. Most barbecue units on the market stretch the truth when it comes to rating their burners, but the Jennaire rating is usually accurate by the numbers. I've done parts for every Jennaire made, including that model, so feel free to reach out.

[@rruizproductions]

Hello Frank. Great video. Thanks. At 1:57 the regulator has a plastic ring inside that looks like it can be adjusted. Can you give me an explanation of this please?

[@franciscosiquina274]

It’s that work with a natural gas stove if I add that part or I have other thing yo do

[@tonydokter5492]

11.40 full size valve maybe pilot tube connection not a thermostat

[@omegamanalphadog]

Thank you juan6810

[@tedpendlebury7978]

Great video, Frank. I don't have a lot of use for such detailed info, but I like knowing, and who knows what I might run into someday. A question... I am putting a (new old stock) 4 burner grill in a kitchen island, and am not sure if it's set up for natural or LP. I know LP orifices are smaller, and natural is often about 1/8" or so. Can I safely assume that if I find the orifices to be like pinholes, or maybe up to a millimeter in diameter, that it's LP? Or vice versa, if it's close to 1/8" assume it's NG?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Generally speaking, if you're talking a bore size of 1 mm or thereabouts (a #60 drill size or smaller), you can be relatively sure that the hole is bored for LP. A 1/8 hole for natural gas would be enough to produce a flame the size of a small flamethrower, so your assumption is slightly off. About the largest bore size that I've ever seen on a (common) barbecue using natural gas, is about 1.65 mm or halfway between a #52 and #51 drill size. I qualify that statement with the word "common" because I recently did some orifices for a topside burner system that was capable of nearly 30,000 BTU. I normally reverse calculate the heat range using a mathematical formula, however you can estimate from a boring chart like this one from Anderson Forrester: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ This is great when it comes to estimating , but when it comes to boring orifices for natural gas and propane that will be used in the real world, I don't estimate. The other issue plaguing the industry, is that most of these manufacturers lie about the true heat range of their burner systems. This is great for advertising, but it spells disaster for the consumer when it comes time to DIY convert his home appliance. That's why people contact me when they're converting their equipment. I likely have orifices for everything made, and if I don't I can machine the pieces necessary to do the conversion to match factory specs. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@mattdavis7445]

Thanks for the video. I have a fire pit in my backyard that I just converted from propane to natural gas. The regulator I got is the Chen Fong 3030 that you initially showed in the video. When I ran the fire pit with the propane the flame was pretty high and great. Now with the changeover, the flame is pretty low. Is there a way to adjust how much gas goes through this regulator, or is there another issue that I should be addressing?

[@frankhamilton8257]

If you've only changed the regulator and nothing else, then that's the issue. You need larger orifices to support the natural gas burn. Here's a chart: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/

[@keithmeline7485]

Hello Frank! Enjoyed this video. I recently bought a 'dual fuel' grill by Charbroil at my local hardware store. The grill is for my parents who have never used a natural gas connection, but have access to in this new house. I bought the manufacturer's conversion kit to connect the grill to natural gas. However, the kit just connects to the gas line without a regulator. My dad feels uncomfortable about this, so I'm doing research to add one to the line running from the house above the physical shut off valve. Do you feel that this is needed? I believe I would need a regulator like the Chen Fong one you demonstrated with the 5' rating. The grill is a 32,000 BTU spec.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. Weber is another company that DOESN'T use a regulator on it's natural gas barbecues (in MOST states), but other companies do (DCS for one). It's likely because they believe that the ambient conditions in an outdoor environment would quickly dilute a natural gas charge with plenty of available and circulating air. I tend to lean towards a "best practice" approach, advocating the use of a regulator in ALL circumstances. When you think about it, why would you NOT use a regulator? All your home appliances use a regulator. Besides, a regulator will instantly shut off the fuel supply in the event that your system has a massive gas leak or otherwise goes "open loop."

[@lelandsweitzer1895]

Hello and thank you for the great vid explanation. Question for you. I recently purchased a high end bbq grill, but it came equipped with natural gas burners etc. I then purchased a transition kit to configure it to propane. I replaced all the burners and a brass piece for the rotisserie infrared. However, the gas regulator doesn't screw off. It's a fixed regulator from seven universe. Am I good to use my grill with that regulator? Or does that need to be changed out for propane usage?

[@frankhamilton8257]

If the regulator is adjustable, then it's a regulator for natural gas only and will not work for propane. You'll need to purchase another regulator. If you live at altitude, you'll want to purchase an adjustable regulator to adjust for the altitude if your over 5,000 feet.

[@twoodtec9137]

Great videos, I have a similar regulator like to Harper wyman, for my star griddle , 6 nat and 10 lp I found that top adjuster difficult myself to reinstall but I used a pair of snap ring pliers to reinstall for lp. so I have a question, do I need to run another regulator before this one on the griddle and reason I ask is because I can turn my tank valve just a little bit and light burners, but if I turn up valve on my lp tank which is a 20 lbs tank. it appears to shut the regulator valve down, which I have to discharge main line from tank and start over it seems to be too much pressure to regulator. On the top of the valve it says 1/2 psig is that for input ?help if you can, thank you .

[@frankhamilton8257]

These regulators can usually be used for an "under grille" type tank without any additional equipment. If the tank is outputting more than 1/2 psig, the regulator will go into overdrive and shut down. You'll need to measure the tank output to see what is happening.

[@sherrischorsch2231]

Frank I have a DCS 48 inch natural gas grill. No gas at this time. I suspect that the regulator is shutoff. It is a Pietro Foirentini model 31052. how do I reset it. I have turned off the gas supply and bled off any gas from the burners(there was no gas). It will not reset. Can you help?

[@noyphoumivong9359]

Hi Frank, I found your video very helpful. I have a follow up question on the Maxtrol regulator. You mentioned it was either made for natural gas or propane. I have a wok station that's hooked up to natural gas witha Maxtrol regulator but I need to take the wok to an event so I need to convert to liquid propane. Do I need to change to another regulator or can I adjust the Maxtrol on there? Thank you

[@frankhamilton8257]

If the regulator is adjustable, then it is either Natural Gas or Propane. The label will say something like Po 3" - 6" on the small tag for natural gas and Po 5,0" - 12" for propane (the numbers may vary). If the regulator has fixed ratings for either natural gas or propane then it's convertible from one gas to the other, so such a regulator would say something like Nat 5.0" & LP 10" A natural gas regulator is NOT designed to work on a propane system and a propane regulator is NOT designed to work on a natural gas system. The worse case scenario is installing a natural gas regulator onto a propane system because it will flow far and above the quantity needed to produce a properly regulated flame.

[@omegamanalphadog]

Mr Hamilton enjoyed this video. Have questions about maxitrol RV 47 CL. The question is how much pressure can the supply side take. I have a Jenn-Air cook top that I want to use outside on 20lbs propane bottle. Will this regulator handle the refillable bottle pressure? Thank you for providing the info you share.

[@frankhamilton8257]

That regulator will handle being directly hooked up to the bottle. You'll need to hook the regulator directly to a pig tail connector with a QCC type connection. The regulator will allow the flow of LP at 10"WC.

[@franknemiroff20]

Thanks, Frank Very helpful video. I have one of those Chen Fong #3030 regulators like you show in the video. I'm not getting enough gas to my burners, only up to around 300 degrees, so I'm trying to adjust this one. Your video shows how to change this regulator from nat gas to LP, but not if/how this regulator can be adjusted for increased flow. I see the spring, but no screw inside to adjust the flow. Do you know if I can adjust the flow on this regulator? Thanks for your help and advice, Frank Nemiroff, Venice Beach, CA

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. The regulator that you're using is designed to convert between natural gas and propane, it's output is not adjustable for either one because it has a fixed output. If you're looking for adjustability you're looking for a regulator dedicated to natural gas or propane that has an adjustable diaphragm, like the one demonstrated at 4:30. I often provide these regulators for people at high altitude. You may want to actually use an infrared thermometer to determine what temperature your grille is at before making any changes. At any rate, make sure to like and subscribe to my video channel.

[@ramivatury5939]

Hello Frank, thank you for your video. I have a question: I have a maxitrol propane regulator that I am trying to hook up to a propane tank. The propane tank quick connect fitting has a 3/4 in male output. The maxitrol propane regulator has a 3/4 in female pipe thread. The 3/4 in male output from the propane tank fitting is a different thread size than the female input into the regulator. Do you have any idea how I can form this connection between the regulator and the propane tank? I have searched everywhere and I am unable to find a thread converter. If there is a different way to hook up this system please let me know! I appreciate the help, thank you.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I have regulator and fuel conversions to fit everything made, but I do not carry the type of plumbing to suit these custom applications. The propane tank connection is a specialty QCC type connector that is only used for this type of connection with an aggressive thread as opposed to the finer thread on your regulator's input side. You'll need to go through some due diligence. The other factor is that, even if you got a QCC pigtail connector, you may still need to go through a reduction to handle the internal throughput of the liquid propane from the bottle because it may overwhelm the regulator which is usually designed to convert from a house system rated at 7" WC. Likely, the best way to overcome this conflict would be to install a standard propane tank regulator (make sure it's rated at 11" WC), then plumb in your house type regulator downstream from that. You can get a tank regulator that doesn't have a hose, but make sure it's rated at 11" WC. You'll likely need to add in a few adapters to fit up your household regulator, so just take it to you local hardware professional, and he'll be able to help you with the adapters.

[@dylanshabtai4554]

Great video! How would I know the right amount of adjustment for the water column. My cooktop requires 5" for NG. If I get an adjustable and I don't have the tool you used at the end. Is there a way to eyeball it?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. If you don't have a meter, the simplest way to make these adjustments is to turn on the smallest burner on it's lowest heat setting, then adjust the regulator until it maintains it's lowest flame steadily without flutter (I'm assuming that you're working with something sophisticated like a Wolf or a Dacor burner). Once that setting is adjusted, you'll want to turn on all other burners. to see if this adjustment is still good. If multiple burners have a low flame feature, you'll want to focus on the burner that's the furthest away from the regulator. Obviously, you'll need to do this in an enclosed environment with no ambient air flowing around the source flame.

[@techworkspro]

Can this regulator be mounted in back of the appliance in a recessed manner to reduce the spacing of the range to the wall? What type of recess would be recommended? Looking to pick up the depth of the regulator behind the stove. I see that the vent. Considering installation of LG Model LDG4315ST (replacing an electric stove).

[@frankhamilton8257]

In most cases, stoves come with a regulator, and this regulator is normally internal. The only model of stove that may have an external regulator is a Jennaire Cooktop (the downdraft model), and this is also common on antique stoves.

[@saschatrummer3390]

Good day ! Great video . I bought an used Weber Summit 420 . Allegedly it was for propane (although it did not come with a hose) . When I connected the hose (with a normal propane regulator) to the bottom of a Maxitrol RV47L ( 1/2 psig , Po 2.8" - 5.2" , with a marking on ther that states 1020 48 4.5 , which I assume 4.5 being the factory setting) , I see that the flames are very high , with tall (4" or so) blue and yellow flames (when just opened to maximum knob) . They are 2" high when on the low knob setting . I assume the grill is actually NG , but I am not sure now how to proceed . Should I replace the regulator ? Replace the nozzles with smaller diam ones ? bypass (remove) the Maxitrol before doing so ?

[@frankhamilton8257]

That regulator is not a propane regulator. If you're using a tank under the grille, just buy a regulator from Home Depot to see what the flames are doing with that regulator. If the problem still isn't resolved, just contact me again, and I'll send you some propane orifices.

[@saschatrummer3390]

Frank Hamilton just tried , even worse . Will definitely need nozzles. Please email me your contact so I can organize it directly with you. [e-mail]

[@saschatrummer3390]

@@frankhamilton8257 Frank Hamilton just tried , even worse . Will definitely need nozzles. Please email me your contact so I can organize it directly with you. [e-mail]

[@frankhamilton8257]

I've sent you an email so we can get the ball rolling.

[@alfonsogonzales3500]

Can you use line hose regulator and stove regulator together on a propane tank?

[@frankhamilton8257]

The hose regulator is usually rated at 11"WC, and the stove regulator is usually rated at 10"WC (unless it is a regulator made for propane that is adjustable). It's possible to use the two regulator's in line because there will not be any conflict so long as the one regulator is rated higher than the other, however a much better solution would be to purchase a hose with a propane tank connector without a regulator, then hook it in directly with the stove's regulator.

[@cmimages55]

Do you know anything about having a Natural Gas appliance and changing it to LP? What needs to be replaced to make the conversion! Thanks for the help in advance!

[@frankhamilton8257]

I've converted just about everything made, I have conversion parts for just about everything made, and, if I don't, I can make them. Here's a video on converting a stove: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5W1YmiKbKuEirc Looking for conversion parts? Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@romand123]

Thanks for the thorough explanation! Question: what’s the deal with the blue plastic caps? Are they suppose to be left alone? It looks like mines threaded but the blue cap just presses into place.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. If you're talking about the small blue pieces at the top of each regulator, then those pieces are the relief that enables the regulator to internally relieve pressure as it builds up beyond the regulator's rating. If you're talking about the larger blue pieces stuffed inside the inlet and outlet holes of the larger regulator, those pieces are there to prevent any moisture from entering the regulator assembly before it's installation.

[@Nancy-xg5is]

I need to replace the regulator on my natural gas stove. The regulator that is on there isn't sold anymore. It is a Maxitrol. The info on it is RV35AC, Class I & II -11.5, Po 6"-10". Can I use a regulator with a different water column? Hopefully you can help.

[@frankhamilton8257]

This is an adjustable regulator. Adjustable regulators usually have the output rating that they are set at stamped onto the housing. You can replace this with another Maxitrol professional regulator, then adjust the output to match the burners on your stove. Questions 714-574-1544.

[@powerpooch2000]

Excellent presentation. I have a question on a commercial fryer that has been converted from propane to natural gas I'm assuming correctly, I've adjusted the pressures on the honeywell combination gas valve regulator to 4.11 iwc I have a nice blue flame but the issue is when we put the thermostat in the off position I have some gas still escaping creating small flames on the orifices. We've diagnosed the issue with help from manufacturer tech support as the gas valve regulator. I was told to replace the whole honeywell combination gas valve regulator unit, but could I just simply replace that regulator instead? Is that a viable option that they aren't telling me about? Wouldn't that be cheaper than spending 240 bucks on the whole thing?

[@frankhamilton8257]

If you haven't swapped the regulator on this unit, you're working with a regulator that's designed to normally work at 10"WC to 11"WC. There might be an adjustment on this regulator, but it would only be from likely 7"WC to 12"WC. An adjustable natural gas regulator would be adjustable from likely 3.5" WC to 7"WC. The shutoff function of this switch is an entirely different issue altogether. After all, off is off. You might try the new combination regulator/thermostat to see if this issue continues with the new unit. There's also the possibility that some debris might be jammed in the shutoff valve. If that's the case, you might be able to get the valve to open, then blow compressed air backwards and forwards through the regulator. Keep in mind that the regulator might only allow gas flow in one direction. I hope this helps.

[@powerpooch2000]

@@frankhamilton8257 thank you for the quick reply. You seem to be the most well educated of all the people I've spoken to concerning this matter. I am trying to save the owner of this unit some money but of course only if it will make the unit 100 % operational and up to specs. I like where you are going with the debris and the valve comment as this fryer was in terrible condition and I did a thorough cleaning of it. So if to change the unit from Propane to Nat gas only requires changing out orifices and a spring how then can they keep using the same regulator? That is what I don't understand AND it's approved by the manufacturer.

[@frankhamilton8257]

You have to remember that, when you're talking to a factory rep, he is usually only as good as the documentation that he's reading from. There's just no substitute for hands on experience.

[@fishheadintexas5276]

Hello Frank, I have a carburetor to convert my small portable generator to run on Natural gas.. It says the input (into carburetor) must be within the range:2.0kpa-2.6kpa(0.29psi-0.38psi). What would be the best Regulator (name, model number) to use??

[@frankhamilton8257]

A normal natural gas regulator is rated at 4 or 5 inches of Water Column for a fixed regulator. The parameters that you've mentioned is between 8.02"WC (inches of water column) and 10.44"WC, so it is above that rating. Are you sure you're information is correct, because Natural Gas normally comes out of a residential pipe at 7"WC (1.75 kPa)? I believe that commercial natural gas regulators (a natural gas version of the Maxtrol regulator shown in this video) can possibly extend to the limits that you require given they are attached to a natural gas source capable of that input rating.

[@fishheadintexas5276]

Thanks Frank, I'm going to get a Manometer and check the Water Column of my residential piping.. Again Thanks

[@buchichang9867]

Hi Frank I have a question, I bought a cooktop from IKEA it came with regulator and Orifice, I already change both them to be used on an LPG. My question is, I'm going to use it in the Philippines and we only have POL type gas tanks. What would you recommend doing so I can connect the POL tank to my cooktop. Thanks a lot hope you can give me idea on what to do.

[@donniebigmac432]

I'm a big orafice guy myself, Frank!

[@ellenorbjornsdottir1166]

Have you no NG system in the islands?

[@omairbinenam6337]

Hello Frank. I have a question. What if I install a natural gas regulator at the main line 40 feet away with some sort of non-return valve at 30 feet distance, and then I install a propane gas cylinder to that same line at 5 feet near the stove. Will then a propane regulator set between the stove and the cylinder work on both natural gas and propane gas without ever needing to switch it back to natural gas? What is the worse case scenario then? I ask you this because where I live there is a shortage of natural gas. Thanks.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and bar-b-que unit made. I'm now in the Mid West, so you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. Concerning this solution. The orifices are the great equalizer here. No matter what you do, you still need smaller orifices for use with propane no matter how you divide it up. I would just convert the unit for propane and let it be at that. That way, you'll always have a reliable fuel source.

[@ignaciocastro4862]

is there any difference between propane regulator used on a small home generator and bar-b-que, grill?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I'm not familiar with the regulator used on a small home generator.

[@sicilianchick5507]

I have a wall mounted propane heater, does it require a regulator?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Yes. You'll need a regulator to control the fuel flow though those burners.

[@Antonio67val]

Hello Frank your video was great I have a question and need your guidance I live here in Orange County and I bought a single commercial wok it has a natural gas regulator but the reason I bought it is because I wanted to use it in my back yard with a propane tank you think this is possible if you can please reply back frank I’ll really appreciate it thank you have a good day

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. You'll need to replace the regulator AND the orifices. I actually have orifices for every stove and bar-b-que unit made. I'm now in the Mid West, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@bigjon.6258]

I have a question sir...I have a out door gas grill and it has low flame issue no matter what a repair mine has a propane regulator at the tank also the other square regulator piped in aswell do i need both ?

[@frankhamilton8257]

It sounds like you have a tank under the grille. If you're grille has another regulator plumbed in further up the line, I can only assume that you have purchased a natural gas grille second hand, and have plumbed it in line with a propane fuel source. If this is the case, you'll need propane orifices as well to get the burners to burn at the proper output. I have orifices to fit every grille there is, so just call me at 714-574-1544. I'm on the West Coast, so call me during normal business hours.

[@bigjon.6258]

@@frankhamilton8257 im in Corona not to far from you thanks much will contact you !

[@frankhamilton8257]

Sounds like a winner.

[@flatearthfisherman7153]

I just put in a Takagi tankless hot water heater, and used a bbq regular for gas supply. The blower motor goes on as soon as I use the hot water, but it isn’t firing up. I also don’t hear any clicking from any auto spark, so I’m not sure what’s going on. The regulator is supposed to be 11 inches water column which is within the manufactures specs. Will the hot water heater not start if there’s not enough gas flow?

[@frankhamilton8257]

It's likely that the unit uses an integrated regulator, thermocouple and on/off valve where the regulator is part of the mechanism. This type of regulator is covered in brief in this video, so you'll likely need to swap out the natural gas one on your unit for one like this. I'm not sure if this will solve the issue, but the integration is needed for this type of mechanism to work properly.

[@melaniegachupin3483]

Hi Flat Earth Fisherman, I am having the same problem with my tankless water heater. Any tips on how you fixed your issue? I am soooo over cold showers! Please advise.

[@flatearthfisherman7153]

Melanie Gachupin I got a different bbq supply line and regulator. I forgot which one, but it lets more gas through. Evidently if there’s not enough gas, it won’t fire up

[@flatearthfisherman7153]

Melanie Gachupin www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4SA4PG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share www.amazon.com/dp/B0728L9GTK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share These were the two that I bought from amazon. Not sure which one worked. The hot water heater is about an hour away from where I am, so I can’t look at it. Amazon gives free shipping on returns though if you ended up getting both.

[@flatearthfisherman7153]

Melanie Gachupin Alright after looking at them, I think it was the gaspro that worked. I bought them both at the same time so I can’t tell by the date of purchase.

[@jayjayjayjay1703]

Hi frank have question for you the bbq regulator is fix but how many water colunm bbq regulator thank

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Barbecue regulators are normally rated at 11" WC, but not ALL regulators are intended for Barbecues. These types of regulators (with the regulator built into the hose) can also be found on other (higher output) burner systems.

[@timshull59]

Can you run home range/oven off 2 40lb tanks with a rv auto change over regulator?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me during normal Midwest business hours at 714-574-1544. You can do this, so long as your stove is equipped with LP orifices and this "system" is regulated down to 10" WC. I say this because most residential stoves that would run off of propane would be designed to work with a propane fuel source rated at 10" WC.

[@alfredjbenavidessr.7767]

Regulator froze, can I unfreeze it by disconnecting the regulator and hose, will work after thawing it out

[@frankhamilton8257]

You must be running an extreme amount of fuel through your system. I'm taking this as the regulator is literally getting frozen. Is that correct? Trying using a commercial two stage regulator with a higher BTU rating, albeit it sounds like your flowing an extreme amount of fuel, but the larger capacity of the two stage regulator might do the trick.

[@lordhoho1]

I have an an outside natural gas line for my bbq. I use a potable burner to can tomatoes. Can I connect the natural gas line to the portable burner? Do i need an in-line regulator from gas line to portable burner

[@frankhamilton8257]

Weber typically sells their late model natural gas barbecues without a regulator. I use the term "late model" because this wasn't always the case for Weber as they used to include a fuel regulator with everything they sold. Residential natural gas is rated at 7" WC. I'm always about safety first, so naturally, I would recommend using a regulator, especially if the unit is to be used indoors. Here's a chart for you to get it right: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ The burner itself will not need to be swapped, however the amount of fuel that travels up the burner tube will need to be altered to balance out the recommended air/fuel ratio required to make that burner operate as designed. This is usually achieved by adjusting an air adjustment commonly found on most burners. Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm on the West Coast, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544.

[@PyroPolo]

Is there anything inside the regulator that would stop the flow of the gas intermittently? Some times I can't get the gas to flow on my BBQ when I start it up.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. If the problem is affecting radiant ceramic burners, keep in mind that those specific burners have a safety built into them by way of a thermocouple that prevents those specific burners from receiving gas unless they are lit and burning. Most other conventional burners on a barbecue don't employ this type of system. In either case, the regulator is not the part that would shut down the system under these circumstances, however a regulator would shut down the fuel supply if your barbecue experienced an open loop scenario (massive gas leak where a large amount of gas is released all at once). All regulators perform this function when the fuel demand spikes above the rated maximum output of the regulator (300 btu vs 250 btu for example).

[@wirelessguyny3787]

Hi. Quick question for anyone who can confirm things for me. I’m dealing with a chinese company that manufactures a grilling unit normally used with LPG for those rolling street vendor food carts. I’d like to convert that to Natural Gas. They tell me that I’d need to supply my own regulator but I believe that I’ll likely need to switch the oriface size as well, no? They haven’t provides any details on the oriface and I’m trying to ensure that its not somehow built into the grill in some proprietary way and would actually have a normal threading/dimension where swapping out is even feasible.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Those parts are likely parts that can be easily obtained since Chineese companies generally don't innovate. I've certainly reverse engineered my share of orifice designs from the hundreds if not thousands of orifice varieties out there. In any case, the orifices usually have numbers stamped on them, so the actual BTU can be deterimined from that. Keep in mind that those numbers will likely indicate metric sizes (those numbers often have 3 digits versus 2). Just use this chart from Anderson Forrester to determine the conversion: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ If you're still stumped, feel free to give me a call at 714-574-1544. Remember that I'm on the West Coast, so call during business hours in the Pacific Standard Time Zone.

[@markcallahan3605]

Thanks Frank for the informative video. One comment: at 6 minutes in, you say that turning down the adjustment screw on the regulator will give you less pressure and loosening will give you more. Isn't it just the opposite?

[@frankhamilton8257]

No, you're letting gas though at a higher rate when you loosen the screw, so that action increases the water column rating. You're restricting the gas flow more when you turn the screw in, so you're effectively decreasing the water column rating.

[@jondriesen2189]

Righty tighty loads spring creating a higher downstream pressure required to push up against spring/diagphram and close valve. Lefty loosey is opposite....less spring pressure to overcome.

[@woodstover]

@@frankhamilton8257 Sorry, you are backwards on this, the higher the spring tension (tighten), the higher the output pressure

[@frankhamilton8257]

Natural gas is typically designed to flow at 4" WC or 5"WC in most cases. Propane is typically designed to flow at 10" WC in most cases. If you have a regulator designed for both natural and propane, there is a plastic piece in the cap that is designed to press on a spring (which pushes on the diaphram) to deliver 10"WC. Remember propane is in a highly condensed liquid form in the bottle, so that's why it sloshes around in the bottle until it hits the atmosphere. It is actually past it's boiling point (approximately -160 degrees F) when it is introduced into an ambient air environment. On an adjustable regulator, the diaphram control is a screw which is designed to press on the diaphram with more or less pressure depending on the direction that the screw is turned. Turning the screw "in" clockwise puts more pressure on the diaphram which further restricts the flow of gas. So it follows, that pushing on the diaphram (turning the screw in) will further restrict gas flow as it passes through the regulator.

[@woodstover]

@@frankhamilton8257 Have a look at this video, it explains very clearly the operating principle of a regulator. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5XHo56KeKeXbcU

[@Hever73]

FRANK IT'S VERY PROFESSIONAL IN HIS FIELD! WHERE DO YOU SUPPOSE TO INSTALL A REGULATOR AT ? SPECIFICALLY OF A STOVE OF A STOVE FOOD TRUCK. THANKS

[@frankhamilton8257]

The regulator in a food truck is usually part of a device the performs several functions (I'm assuming you're using a Wolf, Imperial or some type of commercial oven). This unit is a multiple function device that typically contains a pilot generator, a thermostat (switch), a regulator and a gas valve. It's typically designed to not allow gas to pass though unless the pilot is lit. If you fast forward this video to 11:35, you'll see the explanation of how this device works.

[@Hever73]

@@frankhamilton8257 THANKS!

[@jamesm9560]

Cool, but what happens if I pick a bigger regulator than my current propane regulator from the factory, can't I get a way hotter way faster?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. I'm in the Midwest, so feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544. Trying to extend the heat range of manufacturer's burners is definitely NOT something I recommend. Also, it's NOT the regulator that restricts the heat range of the burners (so long as the regulator is not maxed out in a TOTAL BTU output scenario), it's the bore size of the orifices that dictate the BTU of your burners. Besides creating a potentially unsafe level of heat production, your homeowners insurance policy would definitely not cover any potential hazards posed by over extended burners.

[@dustinhilton5401]

Hello frank i need some help. I just bought an antique stove from a flea market all i know about it is it says universal on it and the owner said it was last used on LP and i need to convert it to NG. Is there a way i can private message you somehow?

[@frankhamilton8257]

You can always catch me at 714-574-1544, however, I think the information that you're looking for is contained in my video on converting antique stoves: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hn_Vc5eCgduLhtk

[@dustinhilton5401]

Frank Hamilton not really i watched that one carefully several times my stove is different do you accept text messages at that number?

[@ClintBritt]

Frank, I think I may need to purchase a regulator from you. I am building a large fireplace (LP); and I'm robbing the regulator / burner etc from an existing Heatilator fireplace, but I want to triple the size the off the firebox; and add 2 additional burners/log sets. We want to make sure their is enough volume. Should I purchase a commercial regulator from you? I doubt the Heatilator is big enough. We are also at 6000 altitude. Thoughts?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. I mainly deal in conversions for stoves and ovens. There's a possibility that you may need a larger regulator just for that application, which I do not do. Have you checked you local listings to see if anyone is qualified to do that? You'll need to know what the BTU output of your fireplace is and match a regulator to that if you're going to do it yourself. Since you're doing a fireplace, the fuel mixture won't be critical and the altitude shouldn't be a factor, especially at that altitude.

[@clivetoochung3514]

hi , very informative , but one set of information is needed , the input pressures or source of gas . i found out the hard way that a 1/2 psig regulator cannot be used with 100 lb. propane tanks .

[@frankhamilton8257]

Doing a fuel conversion is usually a simple affair. I've converted just about every type of bar-b-que and stove made. Feel free to contact me at 714-574-1544 during normal Midwest business hours. Yes, that's correct. Propane in a tank is usually rated at 150 psi; enough to compress it into a densely packaged liquid state. A normal consumer type fuel regulator is rated at 1/2 psi maximum input rating. Anything above that input "pressure" will make the regulator go into an "overlock" scenario that will shut down the fuel flow though the regulator body. A large storage propane tank will require a special regulator (or even a dual stage regulator) to allow it to release at a more usable flow rate for a common household appliances using a consumer type regulator.

[@juan6810]

Hello Sir, I just bought cooktop with a regulator built in a Maxitrol 1/2 PSIG LP 10.0" im going to run it off an LP tank, do I still need a first stage regulator at the tank any information would be appreciated Thank you

[@Bromar01]

Were you able to find an answer?

[@juan6810]

Yes you still need a first and second stage regulator the one on the stove further controls the gas flow when you light the stove

[@omegamanalphadog]

Thank you for the info on the Maxitrol RV47CL. Please forgive my ignorance. What are QCC connections.

[@juan6810]

@@omegamanalphadog The qcc connections are the connectors that go into a propane tank the ones you screw in counter clockwise

[@gr8motive]

Do you know, if you can safely convert a US propane regulator to a EU 30Mbar version?

[@frankhamilton8257]

European's would describe the relative fuel pressure rating in Millibar, however Americans would describe this in inches of water column. To convert inches of water column to millibar, simply multiply by 2.488, likewise to convert millibar to inches of water column, divide by 2.488.

[@billyi7249]

Can you run an acetylene tank straight to a burner with no gravy later and be okay

[@frankhamilton8257]

I suppose it's possible to burn any type of fuel, but is it the wise thing to do? Acetylene, like propane is in liquid form in the bottle, and it transforms to a gas when it hits the atmosphere because it's boiling point is -119 degrees F. I'm not familiar with the working pressures of Acetylene and I'm not sure what the correct ratio would be to mix oxygen with it or if the oxygen would have to be introduced under pressure. There's also the danger of introducing acetylene into a manifold that's not necessarily designed to handle it. Natural gas comes out of a pipe at 7"WC here in North America, while propane is typically regulated to 10 or 11"WC. These gases are regulated down to these working pressures to make them relatively safe to use in a cooking environment. It would be hard for me to speculate what a practical working pressure for acetylene would be. The o-rings for the valves are designed to work with natural gas and propane, but are they designed to work with acetylene? Also, acetylene, if not properly mixed with oxygen produces an extreme amount of soot deposit which could adversely affect the performance of a burner system if not properly kept in check. There's also the consideration that acetylene sours in the bottle after a time, unlike propane and natural gas. I'm aware that butane is often used in 3rd world countries, but again, I'm not familiar with the ratios of butane to oxygen for a correct burn. Bottom like is that there's likely a good reason that propane, natural gas and butane are universally used in cooking application while acetylene is not.

[@whatchoobeezbout]

Frank Hamilton what about running propane to a sealed natural gas water heater? I do have a pressure regulator at the bottle of propane set to 6 wc as the water heater calls for a min of 5 and a max of 11 wc.

[@amealnet2495]

Can I just change the orifice to ng of a propane pro form heater and connect to my ng supply without changing the regulator? What will happen if I do?

[@frankhamilton8257]

There are no shortcuts. You must change both the regulator and the orifices.

[@cmonster6]

Was the first one a low pressure,high pressure regulator?

[@frankhamilton8257]

cmonster6 The under the grille propane regulator is rated at 11"WC

[@NavinF]

Stupid question: Why doesn’t the same setting work for natural gas and propane? I figure that it should take the same pressure*area to balance the spring force regardless of gas. Does it have something to do with the viscosity of the gas?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and bar-b-que unit made. I'm now in the Mid West, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Viscosity is a term reserved for fluid (usually a lubricant) in it's liquid state, so such a term would not apply to a gas whether we're referring to propane, natural gas, butane, etc. The difference lies in the amount of force these gases are released at once they hit the atmosphere, and the term "Inches of Water Column" refers to the fuel's ability to flow through that atmosphere regardless of altitude density. For residential use, natural gas is normally rated at 7" WC in a house system because it's regulated down to that rating through the regulator at the meter. Propane, however, is a compressed gas that is actually in a liquid form in the bottle due to it's pressurized state. The boiling point for propane is approximately -40 degrees F, so it's beyond it's boiling point when it hits a normal earthly atmosphere. It would flow unchecked if it were to be released without a regulator, and, in an enclosed space, would pose a serious hazard. For use on a barbecue or a stove, propane normally is regulated between 7 and 11 inches of Water Column (WC). Most of the time, it's used at 10" WC. Since natural gas is normally regulated down to 5"WC more often than not, the presence of propane compared to natural gas (when comparing 10" WC to 5" WC) is approximately twice as much by volume. So it would stand to reason that propane (at 10" WC) would need twice the volume of oxygen compared to natural gas (at 5" WC) to become combustible. Each gas has a slightly different burn rate so this ratio isn't exact, but, for the purposes of this conversation, it's approximate enough.

[@imagine870]

Hey I have a question about my stove

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and bar-b-que unit made. I'm in the Mid West, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@SomnoNaut]

Thanks, but what is the value one adjusts the regulator to? BTU of appliance? Flow rate needed? other? The issue about range of flow rate (inches of water) confounds the issue of which adjustable regulator to use? I am trying to figure out what regulator to use to fuel a portable generator with Natural Gas. How many inches of water are need to fulfill that load? And which regulator is best suited?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Natural gas comes out of the pipe at 7" WC, and the minimum rating that I've even seen on a natural gas fuel regulator is 3" WC. So the value will be somewhere between 3" WC and 7" WC. There are actually two factors concerning the rated BTU (fuel delivery) rating, the rating on the regulator and the delivery (the orifice - or, in your case - the jet or fuel injector). You'd likely be able to deliver the same rated horsepower output using a regulator rated at 3" WC as you'd have using a regulator rated at 7" WC, it's really the size of the orifice (fuel injector) that is your main concern. Here's a formula for calculating the amount of BTU that your fuel delivery system must be capable of - (Horsepower) = Power (BTU per hour) x 2,545. Since your generator will likely need to be accelerated under load, you'll need to figure out what both variables actually are (in terms of real world figures). To figure out BTU ratings, use this table: andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ That engine is likely fuel injected, so the amount of fuel delivered is likely determined by the pulse width of the fuel injectors (how long the fuel injector is "on" and "off" in a given time span versus the amount of times the injector will be pulsing into the combustion chamber on it's cycle). Another variable may come into play; the amount of time the intake valve is opened (this will determine the amount of air available for combustion). You may be able to figure this out by figuring out the total displacement of the cylinder, then calculating the amount of oxygen available based on that. FYI, natural gas burns most efficiently in a 10:1 mix. I hope this helps.

[@SomnoNaut]

Hi Frank, Thanks for the reply. The generator is a standard Chonda carb fueled gas generator. No fancy injectors that I make out. Just a carburetor with a butterfly choke. How does that change things? So, it is the end load that has to be the determining factor which makes sense. SO as the load increasaes the lowering pressure draws more from the source and the regulator stands between the source (7" WC from outside feed into house) and the regulator (3"WC max.) Is that right?

[@dianjujiang6826]

Is.can.use.gas.fryer

[@GoofysBandit]

I've got two 100lbs LP tanks for my homes Tank less water heater and stove. What kind of regulator should I use?

[@frankhamilton8257]

Your natural gas supplier can best recommend a regulator that will best work for you. The system will usually have a regulator at the source, then each appliance will have a propane regulator at it's inlet. I have LP regulators for bargecues and outdoor cooking appliances, and your appliances will usually have a convertible regulator for use with natural gas or LP. You can always contact me if you need a regulator for your Barbecue - 714-574-1544.

[@christys8474]

Who can install or replace a gas regulator that connects to a dryer?

[@jonathanfurtado3696]

Well I'm going to take the moment and answer. don't know if you're actually looking for an answer still. But if it's on the appliance. Large appliance repairman. If on the gas pipe. Licensed plumber or gas fitter. If you're competent enough and it's legal for a owner to work on their own gas. Have at thee. But I do not suggest, you do it if you are not comfortable and skillful enough to do it safely

[@jdandy48]

did I hear you right, any grill with less than 130.000 BTU needs a regulator.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. All propane grilles use regulators, but, if you're using Natural Gas, that is NOT the case. Basically there are only a couple of grille makers who do not use regulators on their natural gas grilles. These are generally cheap brands that are trying to save a few bucks on each unit. That wasn't always the case. Older Weber units had regulators installed, but now, they do not. I always advise using a regulator on a grille, because, if the system goes "open loop" the regulator will shut down the fuel supply. You're more expensive brands like DCS, Wolf and the like come equipped with a regulator.

[@RemiZ1]

I need to buy natural gas orifaces/ jets...i called around locally and NOONE KNOWS where to get them..closest place i fou d was northern Ireland...im in Connecticut!!! Plz help me out..tx

[@frankhamilton8257]

You've certainly come to the right place. Feel free to give me a call at 714-574-1544. I'm on the West Coast so be mindful of normal business hours.

[@gibson7654]

What if my regulator does not come with such white plunger but it has a white plastic cap inside that can be adjusted with a screwdriver. How do I adjust it to successfully convert from natural gas to LP?

[@frankhamilton8257]

You won't be able to use this regulator with LP because it's an adjustable natural gas regulator. I have propane regulators sat at 10" WC, so feel free to contact me during West Coast business hours (9 am to 5 pm) at 714-574-1544.

[@gibson7654]

@@frankhamilton8257 what if I have a regulator on the hose that came in the LP conversion kit? I have hooked it up today and the flame on few burners is orange on high setting.

[@frankhamilton8257]

The flames are oxidizing. You'll need to close the air shutters slightly to allow less air to enter the tube. This will only be a slight adjustment.

[@gibson7654]

@@frankhamilton8257 you are right. I closed it all the way and am still getting the orange at high. It is ok on low though. Thanks so much.

[@noorsheikh9905]

I have maxitrol but the screw is sealed with red and my gas fireplace won't burn only pilot light on when I click kindly guide me

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. Makes sure to like and subscribe to my KZbin channel. There's another type of regulator that has what is known as a "pilot generator." This type of regulator is manufactured by Honeywell, Robertshaw and several other manufacturer's. I demonstrate this regulator in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqSvlYtjadpgqrM As far as I'm aware, Maxitrol doesn't make such a regulator, but that's neither here nor there. This type of unit is a combination unit that senses if the pilot is lit or not. If the pilot is NOT lit, the circuit inside of it will NOT allow gas to flow through the regulator and, ultimately to the burners. If the wire for the pilot generator is compromised or if the resistance in that wire is out of spec, the fuel will NOT be allowed to flow through the regulator. That's likely what the issue is with your system. The good news is that you can purchase the pilot generator on it's own for only a few bucks. And, by and large, pilot generators are mostly the same among all brands, so you don't necessarily need to find an exact match to suit your application.

[@thomascampbell5633]

Very informative video but I still need help. I've got a 30" GE stove and the flame on all four burners is low. They all light properly with a blue flame but the flame is only about 1/2" long max. It's been that way since I bought it almost a year ago at a thrift store. I replaced the regulator and that fixed the oven problem. It would take 30 minutes to preheat the oven but after the new regulator, it preheats in 5-10 minutes. But all the stove top burners still have a low flame. There isn't a valve to adjust each individual burner flame height in this model. The model is #JGBS60DEK3WW. The stove is 5 years old, built in Feb. 2018 and is in excellent condition otherwise. On the regulator it says, "No field repairs", 1/2 PSI and "Nat 5 WC LP 10 WC. I live at 5200' elevation. Any help you can give me would be appreciated.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. You didn't specify whether the unit runs on natural gas or propane. If it's natural gas, it's likely that someone replaced the orifices with orifices bored for propane. If it is propane, then someone likely replaced the orifices with orifice blanks that were not correctly bored for the heat range that your burners are rated at. That 5,200 foot elevation would require a slight adjustment to compensate for the altitude. A 5,200 foot elevation would dictate a .92508 correction factor to compensate for the altitude. So you would take the actual BTU of your burners and multiply by .92508 then bore orifices to suit that BTU. The trick is to know what the ACTUAL BTU of your burners was originally because the factory label is seldom stating the truth about what the actual BTU of each burner is. It's been my considered experience that most burner systems out there have an actual BTU rating of about 92 or 93% of what the manufacturer states. If that's the case you would multiply the stated heat rating by 0.92 and then again by 0.92508 to compensate for altitude. To complicate this even further, some burner systems use a combination of two orifices; one for low heat and another for high heat, so you would need to address what heat delivery would be necessary from the fuel charge on each stage. In some cases, that burner fuel charge could be delivered from three or even four stages, where a jet in the knob assembly meters the lowest part of the low heat and a secondary jet in the knob assembly handles the third stage heat (out of four stages). This is quite common on a lot of high end burner systems; Wolf for example. In any case, I've certainly done my fair share of these more high tech burner systems since I've likely converted more than 60,000 units at this point in my career.

[@thomascampbell5633]

@@frankhamilton8257 Excellent information. Thank you. My stove runs on natural gas. The two left burners are rated at 9500 BTU and the orifices are labeled "768" with "11" opposite the "768". The right front burner is rated at 13,000 BTU and the orifice is labeled "766" with "111" opposite the "766" The right rear burner is rated at 5000 BTU and the orifice is labeled "799" with "1" opposite the "799". The design of this stove seems pretty simple and straightforward with a tube going from the regulator to the four burners with a single control valve at each burner. I see no other valves used here. Based on what you said, I think this stove was set up to run on propane either from the factory or converted to propane later. So it seems that replacing the propane orifices with natural gas orifices should solve the low flame problem. Do you think I need to have the orifices drilled to work properly at 5200 feet elevation? Can you give me the recommended orifices I need so I can buy them at your website? Thanks again.

[@frankhamilton8257]

It's likely that the orifices that you've purchased were blanks. The kits that I do typically are bored specifically for the model that they are intended for. There's no guarantee that the oven burner is right either if you've replaced it. Some oven orifices are adjustable, so yours may be one of those. The indicator is that such an orifice would have two sets of numbers stamped into it (e.g. - 47-54). Here's a video link on how an adjustable orifice works - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKvGi2CvqNB_rqM Make sure to like and subscribe to my video channel.

[@thomascampbell5633]

@@frankhamilton8257 Hi Frank. I think your response is for someone else. It doesn't seem to fit with my comment. Sorry for the confusion.

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@thomascampbell5633 On the contrary, it's a very detailed response and it addresses all of your concerns and covers all possible scenarios. You'll want to take some time and read through it point by point.

[@silvanoramirez2311]

Hi Frank My grandson gave me a thermador range model # PRL366EG/12 I do used propane in the farm where I live Have to modified the gas system can you advise me how to proside appreciate your help thanks in advance

[@frankhamilton8257]

I do a kit for that model. It sounds like you're converting from propane to natural gas. Is this correct? Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and bar-b-que unit made. I'm in the Mid West, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@silvanoramirez2311]

@@frankhamilton8257 thanks for the info I fine the kit is on the way blessings

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@silvanoramirez2311 I have a lot of people who contact me after they've ordered the wrong kit like you've just done. I'm the only one who has the correct kit because I'm the only one who machines these parts. You can't find them anywhere, so that's why I have to make them. Here's a link to the listing that I have on eBay: www.ebay.com/itm/174536795228 Just contact me after you've figured out that you've just ordered the wrong parts.

[@michaelerickson1518]

I don't care about a water colom, witch way makes the flame get smaller ?

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. It sounds like you're converting FROM natural gas TO propane. There are two factors that control the intensity of the flames on your system. The first factor is the output ratings of the regulator specified in inches of water column and the second factor is the size of the orifice bores. I use a chart system from Ward Burner systems to calculate the orifice sizes based on calculated BTU (actual BTU) of a given burner setup, however there are many online resources that would enable you to get an approximate calculation. I use the term "approximate" because, the only way to properly convert a system is to first calculate the ACTUAL BTU rating of the existing burners, then use that calculation to calculate for BTU of the alternate fuel. I've likely converted over 60,000 burner systems at this point in my career, and, over the years, I've found that most burners are improperly rated. If fact, they're usually over rated by as much as 13%. The average burner system is over calculated by 8% or 9%, which would mean that a burner rated at 10,000 BTU is actually outputting 9,200 BTU (based on a 92% figure). To add to the confusion, most burner systems only allow a 92% efficiency on propane (LP) burner ratings compared to natural gas. If you look closely at many manufacturer's labels, you'll see that difference reflected in the BTU ratings for natural gas versus the BTU ratings for LP. In such cases, I use a "best practice" scenario, so I calculate first, then, if I see that the burner is actually 92% efficient of what the manufacturer's rating for that burner is on Natural gas, I will calculate the converted solution at 92% of what the label rates the burner for on propane. If you really analyze this, you'll see that the labels rating (for propane versus natural gas) is close to that 92% figure anyhow, so I'm likely right my assumption towards the safer calculation. Remember, this is FIRE we're talking about, so it's better to error on the side of caution.

[@ellenorbjornsdottir1166]

Why is LP run at a higher water column?

[@frankhamilton8257]

LP is the abbreviation for liquid propane. When exposed to the atmosphere it's beyond it's boiling point which is -43.6 degrees Fahrenheit , so it flows into the atmosphere as a gas. The fact that it's in liquid form when it's in the bottle would indicate that it's stored at a tremendous internal pressure, enough to turn what is normally a gas into it's liquid form. Most propane regulators are set at 11" WC, but you can also use an adjustable regulator that would allow you to release it at 7" to 13" of Water column, however the industry standard for a "store bought" regulator (with the regulator body incorporated into the high pressure hose) is 11" WC. It's not evident why the industry has chosen this rating, but it is what it is.

[@ellenorbjornsdottir1166]

@@frankhamilton8257 Now I'm curious. What pressure would it take for the propane orifice to be the same size as a five-inch water column methane gas orifice? This is just a random curiosity of mine.

[@bugbomb8048]

But why is there sometimes two RV48L one in front of the other….

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. If you have two regulators in line with one another, and they are both fixed regulators (non adjustable), and they both have the same ratings (example - 10" WC), then there's a possibility that you'll have a conflict between the two regulators. Usually, if you see this, then the regulators that's upstream (11" WC for example - that's what a propane line coming from a large propane tank is rated at) is rated higher than the one downstream (10" WC - what most appliances except a barbecue) are rated at. Keep in mind that the regulator from the source (the large propane tank) is usually supplying fuel to multiple appliances.

[@bugbomb8048]

@@frankhamilton8257 …. Thank you for the response…. And there is a very large tank outside…

[@dipendrapariyar5302]

My stove is burning big fast... I buy small things to replace old... But don't know how to make it right

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.

[@winkiemalala586]

hi Frank, great video very helpful to everyone but my issue is, my gas stove is connecting two regulators, from the gas tank is a non adjustable regulator for two burn or BBQ gas grill thru my gas stove regulator. and the flame spread yellow not blue enough and great BLACK DIRTY STUFF I'm tired of cleaning. can I use only the stove regulator? pls any help suggestions? thanks have a good one.

[@frankhamilton8257]

Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually have orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. I would imagine that the regulators are in line with each other with the first regulator being the one on a large propane tank in your yard and the second one is on the stove itself. First of all, the one on the stove should be set at 10" WC and the one on the propane tank should be set at 11" WC to avoid any conflicts between the two. However, the issue is NOT the regulators. If the flame is yellow, it appears that there is too much oxygen traveling up the burner tube. You should tighten up the window to your air shutters to allow less air to travel up that tube. If this doesn't do the trick, then you likely have an air leak somewhere along the tube. You should replace any burner tubes that are perforated.

[@winkiemalala586]

hello Frank, its me again. I found out that my gas stove is a NATURAL GAS setting according to the manual that I read. but the gas tank that I bought, is a LP GAS, is the only gas we have on Island, so I need to convert my stove into LP GAS, according to the manual conversion, the spud # for the oven is 56 and the 4 top burners spud# is 88. oh and the regulator should convert to LP too, so should I make a conversion or do you have a suggestions to help me. thanks have a good day Frank, God bless .

[@frankhamilton8257]

@@winkiemalala586 Converting the regulator is only one part of doing a fuel conversion. I actually have orifices for every stove and barbecue unit made. I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544. The info you have is erroneous. It would be impossible for any standard burner to run on #88 orifices unless they are natural gas pilot orifices. Even orifice blanks wouldn't have a starter hole that small. If you get a hold of me through text or through voice, I'll be able to supply you with what you'll need to properly do this conversion.

[@frankhamilton8257]

I actually sell orifices for every stove and barbecue made on my website flamesources.com/ I'm now in the Midwest, and you can always get a hold of me at 714-574-1544.