BIG problems with the $400 1974 C10 from the auction.

[@totalyep]

I’m glad I am not the only one that spends a lot of time fixing something to have it not fixed.

[@TheRetarp]

1970 GM: Rebuild the engine in the vehicle 2010 GM: Pull the engine for 3.6L timing chain fiasco

[@cwyckisslick9444]

drop the entire front half of the car including engine, trans, front suspension*

[@conspiracyscholor7866]

The old "low miles, he only drove it to town on the weekends" story.

[@nikomartinez1578]

I meannn it was an auction truck.... soo....

[@advilshenk]

Garage kept, 1 owner creampuff

[@BigMerkGee]

It gets get them every time!😎

[@keithclark486]

Probably some 20 year old.

[@sidewinder3042]

Put a 6.2 diesel badge on the tailgate and drive it. Lol

[@jamesthompson-dx1yl]

The brutal honesty of your show is the best. It's gold! Keep it coming.

[@Maybe1Someday]

I like how you call it like it is

[@OldCarAlley]

I have had engines do that that were parked a long time, and found stiff wrist pins. Freed them up, knock gone.

[@cliffwebb1621]

Wrist pin knock has a more hollow sound

[@AK-ic1yj]

Situations such as these do indeed blow ball sweat, however, it makes for excellent content. I really enjoy watching this and I am sure many others do too. Thanks for the awesome infotainment. Good work :)

[@michaelblacktree]

_"I was gonna make a video about how I fixed everything, but..."_ I know the feeling.

[@grantw.whitwam9948]

Thanks for making this video, showing the basic way to change bearings , without using thousands of dollars worth of special tools, gauges etc.. Sorry that wasn't the noise.

[@KillroyWasHere86]

That Pittsburgh torque wrench is likely more accurate then the one used on Friday at 4:55 pm when the motor was assembled.

[@DanEBoyd]

One time I was delivering a pizza, standing there in front of the customer with my car idling right behind me, when out of the blue, the engine started making a sound almost just like that. My heart sank, and the customer was looking at me like, "man it sucks to be you..." When I got back in the car, I drove it around the corner where I could pop the hood, and was relieved as hell to see that it was just a frayed end hanging off of the fan belt, and it was striking some obstruction like the shroud or the radiator hose. About two or three seconds of knife work fixed that until I could get a new belt.

[@DeadReckon]

Sounds like you got a case of the suck with this engine. Sorry to hear it man, this truck is cool.

[@jerher4604]

I thought all old chevy’s were suppose to sound like that. Just put in some heavier oil, turn the radio up and she’ll go for another 50k lol

[@GearheadRob319]

lmao..

[@TeamTopKick]

Fill her up with straight 40 weight till she makes her own inspection hole in block.

[@Andrew-hh3ol]

Ah a classic case of “I don’t have time or money to rebuild rn”

[@sbf_fox2434]

Might be a different sound, but I had a timing chain make noise on a 71 350 when it hit the timing cover when the nylon gear wore out.

[@Richie_the_Fixer]

He could physically move the rod caps by hand .

[@Ray_the_Jackal]

Definitely sounds like some form of piston knock, it might also be that the pistons are hitting the sides of the block, but I’m thinking you’re right with the wrist pins/ out of round con rod. It might also have stretched bolts in the rods

[@tallpaul9475]

I had the original engine in my '67 Camaro sounding like this. It was a piston problem. I took the engine apart, found a piece of piston skirt laying down in the oil pan. Ended up being the core for crate engine that replaced it. I didn't want to bother with it, once they start ticking, that solid metal hard type, time to do a rebuild or replacement.

[@2011SticksBigal]

Sorry for your luck man, had a similar thing happen, it ate my crank before we figured out what was going on. Hope you're able to save it. Love the videos.

[@kingmarz3635]

Love the channel it’s the only American one that’s as good as the Aussies

[@merqury5]

I beg to differ, Vice Grip Garage is just as good, only Derek smiles once in a while. I love em both.

[@RattleTrapGarage]

@@merqury5 vice grip garage and cletus and this are the top 3

[@merqury5]

@@RattleTrapGarage agreed

[@TurboDog73TX]

That is100% a wristpin. Guaranteed. Edit: also, go scoop a Vortec 3 fiddy from the Yard for $100, it'll be 60+ WHP stronger than the older motors.

[@briang4470]

The vortec 350s do make awesome power the only 3 problems is he will need a carb intake for vortec heads which is a few hundred bucks and he will need a 1pc rear seal manual flywheel and he will have to put on an electric fuel pump because the vortec blocks dont have the mechanical fuel pump hole.

[@shanesansone5672]

I agree. I think the tune up brought the wrist pin noise to life. Disconnect one plug wire at a time to figure out which cylinder or cylinders are the problem.

[@442olds7]

Or...a piece of carbon/junk on the top of a piston and hitting the head, sounds similar to a wrist pin.Happens sometime when changing the spark plugs with an engine that has a lot of carbon build up in the combustion chamber. Sometimes you can get rid of it by running some type carbon cleaner through the engine while running, sometimes the head has to come off and physically chip it off the piston or head. But it still could be a wrist pin/piston cracked etc like you say.

[@GlamStacheessnostalgialounge]

I immediately said to myself "that is NOT a low mileage truck, but what do I know?" Seems like I do know something after all!

[@stevew270]

I have a 74 C20, it's rusty as hell, the bed floor looks like swiss cheese, holes in the floorboard and caked up grease all over the engine cradle and it only has 30,000 on it.

[@GlamStacheessnostalgialounge]

@@stevew270 You sure of that or you're just in denial of a bad purchase?

[@steedsgarage]

just an fyi not that it matters or any one cares but the tang isn't what keeps the bearing from spinning, it simply locates the bearing. bearing crush from torqueing the cap is what keeps the bearing from spinning.

[@legopnuematic]

On one of my small block's I had the pivot pin in the fuel pump wallow its way out of the fuel pump casting, made a noise that sounded like either valvetrain or bottom end. Quick thing to check and see.

[@augienajera642]

Nice!! Can't wait for the end product!!

[@onedayiwillmakesomecontent]

Hang on, doesn't Texas speed performance just send you a new 427 on KZbin???

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

I've heard that noise on a 350 before and it was a spun cam bearing.

[@edwardkosol8891]

Cool video! keep going we all want to see what was the problem. Don't trust those harbor freight torque wrenches I check mine against an old bean wrench and its way off.

[@davesogn3329]

Sorry to hear what happened can't wait to see the next video to see what the culprit was

[@nickc7494]

Rear end oil / engine oil mix no more noise, definitely wrist pins off the connecting rods slapping away. You fixed the tightness at the bottom (bearing) but the pistons are probably being thrown around

[@oriancunningham]

This type of shit it why I love this channel.

[@walterbatman7949]

Looking forward to it

[@SaltFlatMonte]

Bummer. The surprise twist that nobody wanted!

[@Shane-Singleton]

Sucks about that knock. Glad that you're going to invest the time into fixing it. Can't let that heater core go to waste, after all. Hope it's just a wrist pin like you suspect.

[@briang4470]

Some times if the main bearings get bad the crank will clunk up and down, I would also check the timing chain and gears and see if the gear is the factory timing set.

[@maskedmotorsdiy3575]

That's some good instrumental music for installing new rod bearings. Looking forward to future detective work to discover what's wrong.

[@alecjahn]

Damn. I'm excited to see what happened but not excited that you had to go through this debacle.

[@rooster3285]

whats the end play like in the crankshaft ? thrust bearings take a pounding with a standard transmission ..

[@HeadFlowInc]

I would check the fuel pump, when the spring behind the pump arm breaks the pump sounds like a rod knocking. An automotive stethoscope helps narrow down where the sound is coming from if you have one.

[@IBWatchinUrVids]

Went through the same crap a few years ago with a 99 Expedition with the 5.4 (didn't have cam phasers).. Nice looking truck, no rust, but after all the snake oils, and eventually rod bearings, and removing the trans, still the same noise. Sold it at a loss, but no point sticking with a mistake just because you spent a lot of time making it. That engine is so jammed in there, it takes 45 minutes to get the right valve cover off. That's one nice thing about these old GMs, you can pull the engine, and reinstall it, and drive it home in one afternoon.

[@MadScientistGarage]

"Sounds like suck" You should sell shirts with that on it.

[@donaldsimpson3481]

What about the fuel pump push rod ?

[@OkFixer]

I’ve done this a few times....once on an old Nissan, once on a couple old small blocks. I don’t know if you covered this but if you look on the backside of the bearings they should say....STD. Or .010...or ?? Of course as you know this will tell you the size of the bearing, and whether the crank has been turned before. If you get the right ones....plastigage? Yeah...exactly...why? It’s either going to knock or it’s not. People have to remember....the bearing is the wear part. As long as the crank isn’t too bad. It’s perfectly acceptable to do this. And yes....probably a piston pin. Great video....thanks for sharing.

[@AndrewHCann]

Hope simple fix too also be easy resolved !

[@advilshenk]

Nice wrenching. Don’t feel bad, I always gotta do things 2 or 3 times before finally having things work right

[@kevin9c1]

Rod bearings on a 74 auction pickup for $400: Easy, and acceptable. Rod bearings on a BMW M3 or M5: Not easy and not acceptable.

[@adriantomlin2902]

Exactly!! Lol!

[@russellstephan6844]

Very familiar looking... Oh, not the crank issue, the removed oil pan. I now do all the oil changes on the family's vehicles by vacuum extraction from the dip stick tube. Every couple of years the vehicles are up on jack stands and that's when I R&R the oil filters. Anywho, the 1993 C1500 has issues with the vacuum poly line wanting to get hung up on the baffles of the oil pan. So, off comes the oil pan and I cut a small notch out of the baffle as well as weld a section of steel in there to block off where the poly tube may double back on itself and get wedged under the baffle. A bit of work, sure. But, the time and hassle savings of ten minute oil changes will more than make up for the investment of effort. Good luck with that clankin' engine!

[@MattTheComputerGeek]

Clogged or dry oil lifters that possibly cant get oil to all the parts? try seafoam, I have seen it work and get rid of engine knocking, Projectfarm has a whole video on it.

[@chasebh89]

worn crankshaft will clatter as well but with the exact same noise that means new rod bearings didnt change anything, which means you didnt find the variable yet. wrist pins or piston slap, last two options

[@rustednbustedmopars6087]

Hey bud I have a good 03 chevy silverado. Good running ls in it. Whole truck $500. Also have a 355 race motor

[@MidnightPolaris800]

Subd to your chanel

[@draggonhedd]

Hey if that thing is bunk, look for a wrecked colorado and take the 5 or 6 cyl atlas out of that and cram it in. Or dont, either way still a cool truck.

[@cromulentcommodore5896]

atlas swap everything!

[@drdjh2003]

I'm guessing it was rebuilt and not put back together to spec. A truck like that is great to teach kids about. Don't see many of those without power steering they are usually a 6cyl. My boys 11 & 14 just pulled their first motor a few weeks ago from a 97 Z71.

[@larryalexander4833]

I did same thing with the bearings to a Toyota 22r. And drove it few more years.

[@Gkitchens1]

Itll buy you a little time. Ive replaced rod bearings on a 350 in the truck. A month later it still threw both rods. They were spun though. One of those "your mileage may vary" things but its usually only a bandaid. This was on a fresh rebuilt engine from the only rebuilder within 100 miles from me too.

[@GenerationX1971]

Friend of mine years back had the same noise in his k5. After pulling the motor and ripping into it he found out it was the arm on the fuel pump. Only time I’ve seen it happen. Thought for sure it was a wrist pin or bearing.

[@DarkFlamage]

I was like, no way! they're gonna pull the engine with the hood still on? Lol, had me goin' for a minute there.

[@c0c0asauce]

I pulled the engine w/trans from my Obs Chevy a couple days ago without taking the hood off. If the hoist chains are short it works.

[@katieb777]

13:05 i noticed the rims were rather discolored but near the beginning of video he mentioned he did brake work on that truck dad has a 1998 Lincoln navigator it had brake problems awhile and the rims were discolored similar to that '74 trucks' he had a guy redo the front brakes on it and i helepd tidy / clean it up it was quite a booger to clean up the rims on it i used a green dishscrubber that has a light abraisive on it and after awhile i got it cleaned up well

[@kowalski363]

Great video

[@b00st_SS]

Wrist pin , like you said . Gasket set is cheap , look forward to seeing inside

[@ml.2770]

Well that sucks. On a bright note I'm now interested much like other viewers I bet.

[@duanewhite3184]

Is it pumping oil good maybe the oil pump shaft is broke

[@richardtodd42]

fuel pump rod?

[@drewfausett5388]

i've heard of the "aerosol overhaul" and the "craigslist rebuild" but what's this one called?

[@cwyckisslick9444]

that took a long time to build oil pressure, core issue excessive clearance in oil pump?

Sounds like a pidton axle to me

[@oldschool-ef4jz]

Had a 350 that made the same noise and everyone was telling me all kinds of things that it was , turned out it was a broken skirt broken slapping inside the cylinder

[@katieb777]

thats a good sounding song that starts around 8:30 !

[@ggordon4127]

Keep in mind it is bearing crush that keeps bearings from spinning also.

[@JoeFpoc]

I had this happen on a 77 chevy, used the plasti-gauge crap and said i needed .030 bearing on the piston that spun the bearings, did that and the motor wouldnt turn. Come to find out the crank was ovaled, .030 on one side and .010 on the other side. So i just slapped in a .010 bearing which quieted it down a bit and actually drove it banging for a while before finally replacing it

[@paularteau9482]

Had a bent rod in my 305 with the same noise. We initially thought it was thr flex plate. Ended up vette swapped 87 squarebody.

[@yambo59]

Loose flywheel bolts can mimick a knock, but im guessing youd have found that

[@johncholmes643]

A word of advice, pull the spark plugs out, then the piston moves freely, especially on a worn out engine lol. Then you can push the rod up, and over the crank to easier access upper rod bearings. Just my 2 penny's

[@79tazman]

One good thing is that's a good 4 bolt main block that's always a bonus

[@briang4470]

The whole 4 bolt main deal is kind of overrated and for 99% percent of budget builds the 4 bolt main will do absolutely nothing for you and if you do plan on making crazy power like 1000hp or above then you should just go to an aftermarket dart block anyway. I would way rather have a low mileage never been tampered with 2 bolt block than an already rebuilt once or twice wore out 4 bolt block, most of the 4 bolt blocks floating around usually have been gone through atleast once or twice and are junk, I say dont worry about how many bolts it has, look for things like the bearing line bore and condition of the cylinders and cooling passages.

[@johndelta00]

Any chance something went down the intake? My old man had an engine make that exact noise, it was a 3/8 nut stuck to the top of the piston.

[@Polaris88Reid]

Me and honestly seems like the piston cylinder is might be oblong in the bottom of the cylinder I ran into that problem with every vortex engine

[@PontiacPOWA]

oh

[@SuperKONR]

dafuq is a "vortex" engine? Do you even English?

[@waynep343]

when you pull the engine.. and take the oil pump off. make an adapter plate for the oil pump out of a chunk of aluminum bar stock. so you can put the 7/16-14 bolt in or nut and bolt and have an offset 1/4NPT hole to allow you to install a pressure gauge.. drop the complete pump into any bucket of used engine oil.. spin the oil pump intermediate shaft and see what the pop off pressure is of the pump.. the oil pump bypass valve springs wear out after decades.. reducing oil pressure and killing the bearings much like you have shown.. some lube oil but not enough to totally float the bearings.. you are also going to find the main bearings and cam bearings worn allowing excessive oil to leak by and reduce the flow to the rod bearings.. i used to keep remote oil filter adapters i could screw on the block bypassing the filter relief valve in the chevy oil filter adapter.. so i can spin the oil pump while installed to check the pop off pressure of the oil pump without doing anything except pulling the filter and adapter and the distributor.. when priming an engine after an oil pan drop.. disconnect the ignition like you did.. but take the oil filter off and use a remote starter button or a helper to crank the engine till the oil starts flowing from the filter adapter.. screw the filter on and crank again till you get the oil pressure light out.. lastly... when rods come off that use connecting rod bolts and nuts.. shrink tubing sections over the exposed thread.. its thin enough to allow bearing changes.. but thick enough to prevent damage to the crank journal.. which is crazy easy to do.. huge hint.. put a piece of vacuum hose in the end of the shrink tubing sections and just shrink that end.. so you have a nice handle to spin the shrink tube on and off.. this is a low buck fix i have done for years.. the vinyl sleeves for rod installations are usually thick enough to keep the bearing shells in the rod end.. if you have access to a lathe or a friend with a lathe.. you can take a piece of plastic rod and turn it down to just the right diameter to hold the bearing shells in place while threading it on the connecting rod bolt.. be sure to counter bore the threads in the end of the plastic rod.. make these 12" long.. now you can thread these on a rod you are about to install guide it over the crank journal and then with the ring compressor drive the piston into the cylinder and it will be guided without damage on the rod.. since 3D printing is a thing now.. make a factory style version that looks like a crazy long U shape.. slip it over the crank journal slip the rod in after its sticking out the top of the cylinder bore and then drive the piston home.. lastly.. invest in a beam type torque wrench and a square drive socket. set the click type and put a tape on the beam type and check the calibration.. don't change your calibration.. if its more than a few pounds off it needs to be replaced if you can't get it calibrated.. more than the cost of a new HF torque wrench usually.. i worked at an engine rebuilder in the early 90s.. the torque wrenches (expensive protos brand version) were 10, 15 and 20 pounds low at 65 foot pounds.. which explained the head gasket failures we had been having.. while you have the engine out.. see if your parts store has a steel collar oil pump intermediate shaft.. they are usually cheap.. IS-55E is the small block chevy version.. IS-77 is probably the correct steel collar version for your early 70s 454.. the local parts stores may even have them and don't know it.. best of luck.. ill be watching.. i love big block square bodies.. i have some adjustments for the APT screws on 75 up quadrajets that can make both small block and big block carbs respond to part throttle movements like many people would never believe.. until you see it done.. and feel it in the seat of your pants.

[@katieb777]

that truck looks rather good cosmetically for it being 46 years old usually a vehicle was cared well for thruout its life if it looks good cosmetically

[@45AMT]

What about the main bearings? If the rods were scored surely the mains are the same?

[@Nudnik1]

While running I would pull one plug wire off at a time to see if noise changes. Low oil pressure when hot at idle a clue for rods mains but not a wrist pin Then take that cylinder plug out and on piston down stroke try to push down on piston to see if any play in that rod or wrist pin etc. Sound s like wrist pin not a rod

[@scottterwiel]

Harmonic balancer? Makes the same noise when they let go. Had the same problem with a buick 3800. Rod knocking like hell. It was the balancer

[@tlcbear2]

sounds like a carbon knock on top of the piston. good luck with this truck.

[@Camshaft2011]

Ah man, I was hoping that fix would work. I think your helper was trying his hardest not to laugh, though.

[@79tazman]

Sounds like a wrist pin to me i'll bet ya that's what it is because rod knocks start off light and then get louder with time wrist pin will start knocking right away good thing you did not drive it because it would let go and destroy the block and it's a 4 bolt block it's worth fixing

[@brandonsmith5506]

It could be bad main bearings

You can take a plug wire off one at a time and when it gets to the problem cylinder it will change the sound, help identify which one is causing the noise.

[@joetaylor2394]

Inevitably, it will lead to breaking into the lower assembly to find and correct. When this happens you’re going to embark on a circular race to catch your tail. This can be avoided in one of three ways: 1. Pull and rebuild the entire long block assembly 2. Call your favorite auto parts supplier and order a complete long block (recommended) 3. Post it for sale as a parts vehicle on Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace and wash your hands of it. Been there did that. Focus your time and resources on a more worthwhile project

[@Andrew-hh3ol]

It’s either A: piston slap B: cams/stuff like that doneskies C:the wrist pin like you said/ bad connecting rods

[@Slugg-O]

I would have gambled $40 and done the same. The engine was was either going to be good or hosed and that was an easy risk. Too bad it didn't work. If the oil pressure was good my guess would be a wrist pin. Looking forward to the next vid.

[@jbb8382]

Love your video, sorry for the bad luck here.. so what do u think caused this, I know it has really low miles, is it from sitting all those years ? Thx

[@jeffbrown3030]

You ever determine what was making the noise after tearing down the engine?

[@donperry4573]

Sounds like a bent rod or couple clattering... Uncle rod came a knocking lol

[@johndelta00]

Is there going to be a follow up video on this?

[@Austinadcock]

This week I had a 86’ c10 making that noise. it turned out to be the timing chain was extremely loose

[@rayjon237]

100$ junkyard 5.7 vortec, redrill the heads for the older intake.. ohh and you are going to need a new flywheel.. balance is different.. you could even get the serpintine setup at the same time,,,

[@jameshall4385]

You can’t redrill the heads because the intake runners are higher on the vortec heads. Just get a summit or kegs manifold or put the old heads on the new motor

[@rayjon237]

If you use the felpro gasket with both patterns it works.. and be careful tightening the bolts(not much metal once you tap it). It works,. Ohh and swap the distributor gear as the roller cam is hardened..it's been done alot yes the ports are taller but it can be made to work.. the other option is use the stock heads it will just have lower compression because of the combustion chambers ..

[@j.decker7443]

Its a lifter. Take a 5/8" socket and start to tighten down the lifters. You will hear the noise change. I have 16 lifters ready to go into my 99 chev. next weekend.

[@erictickler9320]

Looks like a tore up thrust bearing... did you install a new pilot bushing when R&R'ing the clutch? If so I wonder if it's a little tight on input shaft of the trans which would push the crank forward eating up the thrust bearing... grab the balancer and see if the crank has more than normal end play..

[@rjlittlefield9209]

Sound seems to be coming from the driver's side? When it wAs in and running should've pulled plug wires and checked to see if noise changed.

[@ze_german2921]

it needs a 5.3 swap, My 86 K30 has a 5.3 and my only regrets is not doing it sooner.

[@josephjakubec3171]

Rod bearing check. Pull plug wire while running. Check for noise.

[@Tedybear315]

First time I heard that same sound it was a blown exhaust manifold gasket. However with all the metal in the pan, that clearly isn't the problem. G/L with everything!

[@morgansword]

I rightly don't care for chevy and they have been very good to me in the last twenty five years. I bought one as a favor to a guy who knew that it had a rod knock and we got it started and I saw so many back yard mistakes on it. It barely made it home but couldn't work on it there and no place to pull over and do some fixing... oil everywhere. Get it home and fix oil leaks, one large air/vacuum leak and some other problems, power steering leaked enough that from five mile to home it was real empty. All dumb stuff cause (in my way of thinking) it had a high rise intake and no gaskets under the galleys, expensive double pumper carb, huge distributor MSD system, I found the noise by accident really as I just wanted to hear where this noise was from/broken flex plate so about three good easy hours, new to the truck intake with known good quadrajet, air leaks solved, flex plate changed, exhaust bolted up tight it sat there idling at about five ish area and quiet as a library.... it was holding sixty pounds oil pressure which I did change that high pressure pump out for stock. I had give him the thousand he was asking for it cause of all the money he put into it. I sold most of the crap that old truck didn't really need and made money and then drove it for years as a shop/parts runner. It was still running after I sold it and seen it again and that must of been five years down the road. I love power and all the nice goodies but a rusted out square body multi colored dump truck for what it looked like, I just figured it could do better other places. That hard knock in yours gives me the gut feeling its a wrist pin and if found, fix and stuff back in. Those bearings didn't look too crappy and if it doesn't have a lot of end thrust on the main then its a runner. I don't know how you made it click as loud as you did when you took that bad one out as I have seen them through the brass and into the steel.

[@xozindustries7451]

Mental note, don’t let you tune my small block! 😆 did the oil pump go bad? I’ve had that happen on a small block before