Fulcrum Freehub Bearing Change - Racing 3/5/7 Quattro, Zero

Fulcrum RS-113 Freehub Body Bearing Change. The guide applies to Fulcrum Racing wheels 1/3/5 and 7 , Racing Zero , Quattro and all XLR Series wheels. Bearings are 2 x 6803-2rs
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Thanks for watching.

[@lindachan5610]

Your video helped me a lot. Thanks from Japan.

[@chatlow]

19mm socket just saved me 50 quid on a bearing press... genius!

[@robertrodriguez6674]

Half way through a rebuild and started second guessing the way that inner bearing goes in and out. Thanks for the video! Its a pretty easy process but good to confirm. 2rs bearings have seals on both sides. Definitely use 6803 2rs!

[@danielmiller9419]

My Fulcrum Quattros on their 3rd set of bearing after 10,400 miles. Fulcrum not double sealing the bearings is the cause as helpfully demonstrated and explained here. I need to self service my wheels in future and this video will help massively Thank You !

[@whitnig]

Brilliant. I was struggling to work out how to get the new bearings in...... 19mm socket... inspired!!!!!

[@andrejkiss]

Very nice informative video. Just exactly what I want to do, and now I know exactly how. Thanks!

[@Jeremy2010ca]

Many thanks from the other side of Globe. You are awesome 👏

[@suartdave]

Topman. Really informative step by step. My Fulcrum Racing Sport DB’s has this free hub and your video really appreciated. 👍

[@amithac]

Hey! I have a 2019 CAAD 12 that runs Fulcrum Racing Sport Rims. Were the bearings inside your rims sealed on both sides? Thanks!

[@geoff4705]

Brilliant video--many thanks!

[@ginseng1978]

Thank you and God bless you!

[@juncacho1405]

I salute you sir very informative,

[@clp91009]

Your video helped me no end in removing that circlip. I was about to literally give up. The key is having circlip pliers with very narrow ends as the holes are tiny in the circlip. I found a set from Knipex with 0.8mm ends that work perfectly.

[@syrus3k]

these look very similar to jewler's pliers, so worth asking friends if they have those too

[@kijzer83]

Thx mate !

[@cuongbike97]

Cảm ơn video của chú !!

[@fqk3rstream700]

thanks 👌

[@davidecomberlato531]

thanks man

[@JoelTGM]

Thankyou

[@mikerbwind]

Thanks for the guidance. Just one point. On my Formula freehub the design is exactly the same but my spacer would not move so I could not get to an edge of the outer bearing to drift it out. I managed to free it by removing the bearing seal and cage and pushing all the ball to one side and then using wd40. The 2 bearing and spacer were all moving together. So it seems to me that the new outer bearing should not be drifted in so far that it is hard up against the spacer.

[@syrus3k]

WD do a product called 'penetrant' which is like WD-40 but incredibly good at loosening up coroded parts.. worth buying as it's helped me out a number of times with stuff like this

[@bbbbburton]

Can also use a vice to press the bearings in to the freehub without using a mallet.

[@petartodorov9202]

Great content, I just wish you didn't repeat the same thing over and over again (f.x. why we should replace the bearings with double-sealed ones). This video could have been 50% shorter.

[@adammillsindustries.]

Can you recommend a bearing removal tool so I can buy one online please? Thanks.

[@paulstelling3099]

Hi great video. Please can you tell me dose axel just knock out of bearings once axel and freehub are on bench with nuts removed. Many thanks Paul

[@stevencocking6943]

How do you know when the second bearing is seated? Does it seat on the spacer?

[@brieantoine963]

Hello. Thank you for this great video, very well detailed. My bicycle mechanic replaced the body bearings with SKF bearings. Since then my wheels are much less fluid. I have a friction noise. However, SKF bearings are said to be of good quality. I don't understand why I have this problem. Can you help me? I will have them replaced but I don't know if I should put the original ones back. If you know of any good replacement brands, I would like to have your advice. Thank you

[@danielsotelo3942]

I run a professional shop in Seattle, and the number one reason people ruin wheel, freebody and bottom bracket bearings is because they apply solvents or grease cleaning solutions directly on their chains and cassettes while they are still on their bikes. And the number one bearing killer are those Damn ParkTool chain cleaning devices where it soaks the chain with powerful cleaning solutions and it dribbles on to the cassette and into the freebody and hub bearings. Worse yet it goes from the chain and on the crank spider and staight into the BB bearings. What people do not understand is those solutions have a powerful capillary action where a drop or two will easily go right past the a bearing seal. Then that tiny bit of solution dissolves that extremely thin film of lubricant between the ball bearings and the raise they ride on.... BINGO! The balls are now riding on the raises with no lubrication, and thus the bearings are ruined / crap. People argue saying what do your mean? There is still grease on the cage surrounding the bearings. What they fail to understand is that grease can not grab on to the bearing because the solvent prevents it. In other words, please remove your cassette and chain and clean them away from your bike. Take a hammer to your Park Tool chain cleaner and throw it away.

[@gavinneale6651]

Hi, great video, I currently have 2 sets of Shimano 81s, both have very slight movement in the free hubs, still very smooth with no excessive noise, my local bike shop suggested I not to worry as this is common with these wheels sets. I would be surprised if these wheel sets have done any more 5000ks. Your thoughts would be appreciated Many Thanks

[@FreeToCycle]

Gavin, I small amount of play is nothing to worry about. Just keep an eye on it, you could have it checked but it will probably be exactly the same afterwards.

[@Marshalaneil]

Im Using Quattro Non LG Wheelset? Does it have the same bearings?

[@gavinfowler8034]

Very useful / informative video - thank you! Quick (ish) question if i may. I'm looking to service my Fulcrum Racing 3 freehub (excessive free play / movement in cassette for some reason). I purchased the wheels 2nd hand, so uncertain of of age. Someone mentioned that it would need a pair of R1-007 Bearing Rings for the service rather than 6803 2rs bearings (cartridge). Was I misinformed or is it simply a case that newer wheels use the cartridge type bearings. Are the two types or bearing be interchangeable or is it best to simply replace like for like. Going forward is it possible to buy brand new freehub body (at the higher cost) which comes fitted with 6803 2rs cartridge bearings and then services them (when next needed) as outlined in the video?

[@FreeToCycle]

Gavin Without knowing the age of the wheel it’s hard to say which bearings it has, the best way would be to strip the freehub and have a look, usually they used sealed bearings from around 2014.

[@gavinfowler8034]

@@FreeToCycle Many thanks for the feedback, you've put me on the right path! For any others reading with similar query, I stripped my wheel down and the issue I had was simply getting confused between RS-113 freehub bearings (6803 2rs) and the internal wheel / hub bearings (R1-007) - they serve completely different purposes for different parts (I had mistakenly merged them in my head). With this helpful video I'll service the freehub first (and subsequently the wheel hub) to see whether it cures the excessive play in the freehub mounting/cassette I've got.

[@jake_newman]

Gavin Fowler hi Gavin, I’ve got a similar wobble in my cassette on the fulcrum racing zeros. Did changing the bearings fix you issue? I’m thinking of just changing the body as it cost pretty much the same

[@ukaszolejnik2057]

Any advice what to do if freehub body got stuck?

[@mariozamora1560]

In the campy free hub body the ring lock doesn't have the little holes to take it out with the pliers, how can I remove it?

[@Gargamel13015]

Fulcrum racing 6 freehub has same bearing? Thanks

[@bobetevangelista3379]

I'm trying to service my fulcrum racing 7 freehub 11speed shimano. Anyone knows what bearing brand & type should I use? I need the bearing number as well. Thanks in advace for those who will answer.

[@denis_roy_7]

Thanks for the video! Can we service the original bearings? Can the reason be for the absence of seals that the seals are a great source of friction? What about a bearing press?

[@danielmiller9419]

A punch was used here

[@briananderson9853]

Looks identical to the freehub body on a Formula CT-72S hub which Whyte also brand as their own.

[@robtaylor9782]

Running Campag Zonda rims with Shimano 11sp hub FH-BUU015X1 bearings shot does this vid apply to this one????

[@FreeToCycle]

Yes a similar method could be applied to that freehub body!

[@gatopix]

hello, do you know the reference of the bearings of zonda shimano free hub body? 6003 2RZ or 6803 2RS, thanks.

[@SuperTaddz]

Excellent video, as usual. Any chance you could do a similar video for the main hub bearings, again without buying any expensive tools. Would be really helpful. Keep up the good work. Cheers

[@FreeToCycle]

I’ll do a video for the wheels bearings if that helps you out!!

[@SuperTaddz]

@@FreeToCycle Is this video coming soon please

[@FreeToCycle]

End of next week hopefully!

[@adamkubiak1933]

Oh... it’s you again... Whenever I have a problem and all my LBS go “I have no clue, search the web” I do and I find you. Can I replace the free hub in a fulcrum wheel and use something that fits a standard Shimano cassette?

[@MrFarmaco]

I took the feeehub apart and inside on its wall there are some rusty points ....it's worth to try to clean it or better to change it ? All the internal grease was brown...

[@FreeToCycle]

It’s definitely worth trying to clean the freehub and re grease!

[@johnmichaelbalila5023]

Why that one side of the bearing is not sealed?

[@holdonL]

is your socket 19mm in diameter or it holds 19mm hex?

[@wizardzx2]

The split ring is really hard to get out. Need special pliers.

[@TrevorMonique]

Hi what grease are you using? Thx

[@FreeToCycle]

Multi purpose grease!

[@EM-wd2vg]

Great video, but what size are the bearings???

[@FreeToCycle]

6803-2rs

[@EM-wd2vg]

@@FreeToCycle cheers mate...

[@FreeToCycle]

6803-2rs

[@doarpaul1502]

The bearing size is 17x26x5

[@Valentyn]

what is the size of the bearing in the drum, or name?

[@FreeToCycle]

Bearing code is in the video description box!

[@alexgrytsenko85]

By any chance, does someone know what hub is on Racing 600DB??? I think I shook the world trying to find that crap...

[@FreeToCycle]

Fulcrum S9-013 freehub body

[@alexgrytsenko85]

@@FreeToCycle thank you 🙏

[@liamcullen9395]

What size are the bearings?

[@FreeToCycle]

6803-2RS

[@69aveit]

Hi there just wanted to no how you got the free hub off fulcrum 7 wheel . ? Tna 👍🚴‍♀️👍🚴‍♀️👍

[@FreeToCycle]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/foqwaoush7mWjdE Will probably be the same as in this video!

[@69aveit]

@@FreeToCycle hi that’s for replying . It’s not the same as that . It looks the same as a standard q/r axle . You take axle out an I normally use a ten mm Allen key to remove hub but that doesn’t fit it’s to small an a 3/8 socket extension doesn’t fit past the bearing . The bearing are different sizes on each side of the axle . I’m pretty stuck with this one 🥴🥴

[@danielsotelo3942]

I run a professional shop in Seattle, and the number one reason people ruin wheel, freebody and bottom bracket bearings is because they apply solvents or grease cleaning solutions directly on their chains and cassettes while they are still on their bikes. And the number one bearing killer are those Damn ParkTool chain cleaning devices where it soaks the chain with powerful cleaning solutions and it dribbles on to the cassette and into the freebody and hub bearings. Worse yet it goes from the chain and on the crank spider and staight into the BB bearings. What people do not understand is those solutions have a powerful capillary action where a drop or two will easily go right past the a bearing seal. Then that tiny bit of solution dissolves that extremely thin film of lubricant between the ball bearings and the raise they ride on.... BINGO! The balls are now riding on the raises with no lubrication, and thus the bearings are ruined / crap. People argue saying what do your mean? There is still grease on the cage surrounding the bearings. What they fail to understand is that grease can not grab on to the bearing because the solvent prevents it. In other words, please remove your cassette and chain and clean them away from your bike. Take a hammer to your Park Tool chain cleaner and throw it away.

[@nadsim154]

Even better, wax your chain so you don't have to use degeaser anymore !

[@danielsotelo3942]

​@@nadsim154 Waxing Chains.... Now there's an other fad that's going nowhere. Customers keep coming in my shop complaining their drive train is very noisy. I look down at their super clean, almost chrome like chain and tell them, their chain desperately needs oil that's what is making all the drive train noise... They say "it can't be, because I wax my chain". After I convince them to allow me to oil their chain, and then ask them to go out for a quick test ride, 100% of them come back saying "Oh Wow, it's so quiet". Bottom line about waxing, yes it initially works, but after about 50 miles of riding the wax starts to migrate away from all the tiny contact points in and on the chain, and Bingo those contact points are now metal to metal, thus you end up with very shinny, but very noisy drive-train. So yes waxing works, if you can wax your chain at about every 50 miles of use.

[@nadsim154]

@@danielsotelo3942 Hmmm, if you wax your chain properly that's not how it works. The hardest part is the first clean of the chain and some don't do it properly and the wax doesn't stick to the metal how it should because of some residue. When done the proper way (first clean with 2-3 mineral spirit baths and then denatured alcohol finish before the first waxing), the drivetrain is quiet for at least 180 miles then you rewax and there's almost no wear.

[@IvanValenok]

Looks like this mid bearings metal sleeve does nothing except generating metal dust which finally get into your bearings thx for no inside seals. I think it is worth to not install it if you change your bearings.

[@adammillsindustries.]

I have no ring snap pliers I’m fuming!

[@wizardzx2]

Same for me. Really think that is the only way to get the split ring out.

[@adammillsindustries.]

I managed it with a rocktrail lock knife. All good.

[@wizardzx2]

@@adammillsindustries. split ring is out but bearing outer race is still in there. Using penetrating oil, will see.

[@adammillsindustries.]

@@MrDodov I pressed it in with a camping pen knife.

[@syrus3k]

Saved me at least £60? Thanks

[@syrus3k]

I'd probably put something between the 19mm socket and the bearing as otherwise you're sort of hammering the rubber seal/bearings themselves.. perhaps just a bit of plastic..