Full training session (during elbow injury recovery)

[@3pacz]

Dave i think a collaboration with magnus would be perfect for both of you climbing legends :)

[@freerockliketoast]

Get Magnus out on a trad route

[@Rycamcam]

@@freerockliketoast Yes! Trad or outdoor sport routes would be entertaining

[@christopherkahler6742]

Agree this would be awesome

[@petermenzies1029]

Dave, thank you for keeping the stoke high for us perpetually injured climbers

[@alexbiale]

Been waiting for this one for a long time. Phenomenal video with relatable experiences. I’d be curious to see a session where you lean into a specific element of your bouldering: strength, power, power endurance, finger strength, etc

[@martinmckenna]

Right Dave. Get another video up when you're feeling shite! :) Good video.

[@nathanballentyne]

Love to hear a fellow sweaty hand climber! You're a true legend!

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

It is my break-away safety feature...never get finger injuries in the gym, because I can't hold on to small holds!

[@apoorvpro]

Dave, your content is so insightful, full of age but timeless. I often find sports mindset fits well with business and anything involving goals. 50 years from now it will still be cherished, I can't say the same for the purely entertainment value of others...

[@stevencrudgington374]

I absolutely loved this. Perfect. More of them please. Be cool to cover all of your different types of sessions 🙏

[@b04rdpr0ducti0n5]

Really great to hear your thoughts on progression. Puts into perspective how climbing is a life long sport!

[@alimcmellon7130]

Love to hear your thoughts on mixing training different energy systems Dave. Do you always do all in one session? And what's your theory behind it? Thanks

[@TheJustinConnor]

Was about to type the same question. I assume you are familiar with Eric Horst and his views on energy systems and the “interference” that may occur by training all the systems in one session?

[@alimcmellon7130]

@@TheJustinConnor The exact reason for my question. Plus if Dave can train all at once, can I? I really want to know how to optimise my limited training time.

[@CouldBeBetter_]

Had exactly the same question in my mind!

[@JasonOgasian]

thanks for sharing Dave, I really enjoyed this edit. The way you showed the climbing but often sped it up was perfect IMO. Watching you do the moves can be motiving, but hearing how you're thinking about your training and making adjustments as you is where I think the real value is. Personally I'd like to hear a little more about how long you're resting between specific attempts/sets since I think that's a pretty key facet of training, at least it is for me :) Merry Christmas!

[@maximeferre6903]

Hey Dave, love this concept of video, it touches a wide variety of subjects in a practical way. It's especially interesting to have the insight of a pro on feeling weak, unfit and injured. Thanks a bunch

[@lewisrobinson6754]

I'm dealing with tennis elbow right now, and seeing you going through the same thing and how you're managing it is really helping me cope!

[@climbnexplore1187]

You really should consider collabing with said strong climber with many subscribers...:)

[@soniniittyniemi]

Definitely more videos like this!

[@jacklikesrocks]

Awesome! Been hoping for a vid like this for a while!

[@rockiesbouldering]

Best golfers elbow (medial epicondylitis) treatment I’ve used is the simplest. It’s basically a triceps extension. Find a heavy book and pinch grip it, hanging at your side, bend your torso over like you are picking up something from the floor, and extend the elbow straight back keeping the pinch straight. Flick the wrist back at full extension then repeat 10 times. Squeeze the tricep as you go. This gets surprisingly pumpy quick. Run 3-5 sets of 10 twice a day for a week and if improves- keep doing for a few more weeks. Cheers.

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

Working antagonist muscles always helps recovery...sometimes immediately. Bicep curls also are key for tennis elbow, along with deep massage of flexors and pronator teres..

[@erikwest1096]

I recently got my second worst pulley injury in 10 years of climbing, seemingly doing nothing risky (during easy warmup boulder, on a sloper!). Even in hindsight I can't identify anything, which is the first time I can say that for a finger injury. Frustrating to encounter seemingly bad luck, but your attitude in your videos in contagious. I will recover and continue to get stronger. Appreciate you sharing Dave.

[@El_krux]

This is great content Dave, thanks for this! Great to get some insight into how you structure your training.

[@alexrosenthal8926]

Honestly, this is like one of the best videos I've seen on your channel. I really like this concept of following along a full session. Great content, keep at it!

[@dannygrout92]

When's the Dave Magnus colab!!!!!!!

[@Dippie60]

I'd love to see him get on in Dave's home walls

[@thomasl6912]

Please, keep us updated with your injury. Thank you for the video.

[@jeremyjennings9361]

I really enjoyed this video. I’ve built a home gym and have a big 45 as well (though not as tall) and I get a lot out of your training videos. It’s very helpful to hear methods of training and how to structure sessions from someone with a similar set up. Keep them coming! Cheers from Chattanooga, TN!

[@nicolascuevas1993]

brilliant dave! and congratulations for your videos once again. You are a great inspiration for me

[@markharris2562]

You don't have to apologize for having a good session! It is great to see. Take care

[@StickDicks]

thank you Dave. Really enjoyed this video. sometimes when people explain their training sessions there are a lot of 'blanks' that i have to fill in, but when you pretty much do a commentary over the whole session there is nothing left out so I feel that i have a grasp of the full picture. I also have terrible ankles (one in which i no longer have an ATFL ligament at all). I found adjusting to using only barefoot shoes, a few years ago, to have really made a difference and they're feeling more stable than ever! thanks again 😁

[@BryceU]

Thanks for the preview of your training. Hope the elbow continues to recover!

[@andersonbouton4355]

What a great message at the ~18 minute mark

[@tpstrat14]

20:48 I know that feeling. Somehow recovering from injury is the best feeling in climbing. I almost look forward to getting injured so that I can learn how to get healthy and feel that sense of accomplishment and relief. It’s so rewarding

[@HazHut]

Absolute legend, Dave. Thank you so much for your much appreciated content! X

[@adrienescaravage509]

Do as many of these as you can they are super interesting. Congrats for your recovery !

[@torgrimmy]

Fakk yeah! Its 2021. Just turned 40, started a lattice program. Watching an in depth session of one of my all time fav climbers(alpinist). Totally faboulous! Great content. Fun you talk about Magnus Midtboe. Would love to see a colab there!👌👌👌👊💪 stay strong! And pscyced! Thanx for all youre humble videos!

[@fury902]

ive always found that elbow pain for me centers around power moves while my arm is at full extension. ive always found recovery in controlled motion and a slight bend in my arm. Even quick motions that need to sustain large amounts of weight, a slight bend in my arm always works, it lets the muscles take the grunt. ive learned the hard way that theres a difference while at full arm extension that yes my arm was ready for that, or no it wasnt. Loved watching this session.

[@timmayer574]

More of the same thanks Dave. How you order and time hard bouldering, finger boarding and endurance, is fantastic to see. BTW lightly flossing your tight forearms muscles and tendons with oil and a smooth river rock/pebble works well. Do it after sessions or on rest days. I’m told it breaks up the scar tissue, which is putting pressure on the nerves.

[@4earthly2being0]

I was just about to comment about the fan, then you turned it off lol. Nice!

[@kais7589]

You might benefit from a softer matting for your ankle. I remember the good old foamy at A2 in Edinburgh before it closed. It was delightful to fall into. Like falling into a pool. The newer matting takes its toll on my joints.

[@ibex1753]

Thanks for this Dave. Great video - more along the same lines would be great.

[@setadoon]

Its good to see other 40+ yr olds getting the same climbing injuries as myself lol. After 40 the body just doesn't heal the same. Good video !

[@naimad111]

This is gold, enjoyed it so much!! More of it please!

[@anteroklemola7874]

Thanks for all your insightful and inspiring content, have a peaceful Christmas and a very strong new year!

[@fks8218]

So many nuggets of wisdom in this video! Love it! Thanks Dave!

[@jon-williammurphy9780]

As part of the strength-as-injury-proofing concept I read the Steve Bechtel book Unstoppable Force a month ago and have thus been mixing in a lot of heavy weight training and it is actually resolving a lot of nagging issues in my elbow and shoulder. It’s pretty amazing.

[@yushy5816]

amazing video, would love to see more of this style

[@felixkat6676]

Love the video Dave! have you tried antihydral for the fingertips? Merry christmas and good recovery!

[@dougolthof2542]

Cheers for the video Dave. As always, informative, entertaining and inspiring! Any thoughts on training sessions for young climbers (not me! I'm about your age!)? I help coach a youth team in our little town of Jasper, Canada and wonder about helping young climbers improve their fitness and strengths without risking overuse injuries. Thanks!

[@nickcoverdale]

Thanks for sharing this, Dave! Love the video, it helps me with my own awareness in my personal training, and I'd love to see a series of videos showing the diversity of training in respect to different climbing disciplines! All the best!

[@CaseyFackreClimbing]

This is awesome please post more vids like this!

[@christiancorralb]

Awesome video Dave! More videos like this one please!

[@matthewlarson7207]

Dave, I really liked this longer video of your training session. Maybe next time you are having a poor climb during a training session you film again. I bet the things that you will think to talk about will be vastly different.

[@JonPMelly]

Dave I was in my home gym cheering you on bud!

[@alpinejonny]

Awesome, thanks for this Dave! Great content, and enjoyed your anecdotes on injuries and recovery!

[@M-Forz]

I enjoyed it! More, please!

[@peterschibbye2802]

Interesting and inspiring. I'm straight off to my home wall! I would love to know how you approach periodisation both of training focus and if you have easier and harder weeks of training? I would also love similar content about your eating. More examples of how you eat and how you change that in different situations. It would of course not cover everything you should know about food but more for an example from witch to be inspired.

[@rdg8390]

Tennis elbow and bursitis are best treated with hot water therapy. Build a sauna, hot pool or take a holiday to an Icelandic or swedish hot spa for a few weeks to months. You cannot avoid resting these injuries.

[@adamschuut4337]

fantastic, more of this!!!

[@CJStepanek]

Great training video, Dave. Would enjoy more of these. Happy Christmas to you and your family

[@joshpennwatson]

super interesting! would love to see a campus session too and a bit more info on your rests and hoe long the whole session is without the cute, maybe just habving a clock visable in the background to give an idea on session timings. thanks for helping me reflect on my own training

[@joshpennwatson]

should say cut

[@SuperCD93]

Amazing video Dave!! Thanks!

[@ferrells0987]

Hey Dave - great video! been following you for many years, and read all your stuff. How many different kinds of training sessions do you do? Is this (power, fingers, power endurance, endurance, antagonists) the main one, and you do it all the time (only vary the difficulty based on injury status and fitness)? thanks!

[@betaxxl]

Amazing content as always. Not about climbing really, but I would love to hear your opinion/experience on meals timing, not eating too late, eating in small/big portions, in a small/big time window, eating after a session etc.

[@cityless7798]

loved the format

[@MythAvatar]

Love the faces, you can definitely tell you're trying. Is there a reason you appear to be doing 100% hangboarding, Vs. 90% which is often quoted as the golden number for max hangs.

[@deltoidsforaltoids]

Thought you had a killer mustache in the thumbnail. Putting a pin in this one to watch after work!

[@hmorseth30]

This is awesome. Might there be a convenient enough way to record your sessions that you could record and upload one a week to this or a related channel you could start just for this purpose? The community might get a lot of mileage out of this.

[@loldo56]

Hi Dave, great video as usual - could you speak a bit about your ankles and how you get around them climbing and bouldering? I damaged mine falling off a top out a while back and the recovery has been slow and I'd be interested to know how you get around it bouldering? Is it as simple as avoiding runout slabs and anything too high/with bad landings? Thanks and love the channel!

[@dipper0yawn]

Brilliant video.

[@satanaz]

have a merry Christmas yourself Dave! Cheers

[@alexgalays910]

"Full training session" but really it's filled with philosophy :D Do you always finish with endurancy problems? How often do you train?

[@gonzoliam1720]

Great insights! Thanks for the video Dave. Age 53 “can I still do this?” is familiar; you just have to ignore it and go through the process. At least that’s my experience!

[@chickencurry6072]

Hi Dave, nice video, you experimented with antihydral much?

[@MatthewSmith-ml7zf]

Dave, another grate video thanks. Do you Phase train I.e. a period of strength, followed by power endurance, endurance etc.... or are your training sessions much like this video with a mixture of all?

[@rschreck876]

I’m sizing up in climbing shoes. Every single time your foot either banged on the wall or when you dropped from a climb, my toes started crying. 🤣

[@stubbles]

have you experimented with antihydral or any of the Rhino products for your skin? I have similarly sweaty skin naturally and antihyrdal has been a real game changer, particularly for climbing in warmer or humid conditions.

[@juliang3608]

Hey Dave - i really love your videos ! I have a question about your left hand position at 11:53: a friend of mine also crimps with a tugged in or stretched little finger often. We tried to find the reason for that but wasnt successful yet. Do you have any clues ?

[@ryanthomas4549]

Hey Dave, I've heard/read that it can be counterproductive to work power and endurance in the same session, that isolating one performance aspect or another better allows the body to adapt. I'm not sure how you would categorize this session in relation to the broader picture of your training as a whole, but am I correct in assuming this is less a focused effort on stimulating a particular adaptation and more a maintenance/rehab session?

[@jackbrehony1]

Hi Dave, I wonder could you share your skincare routine? I suffer from very sweaty hands myself and it's always what let's me down on climbing trips, my skin gets worn down to quickly and the pads get to tender to climb. Thanks for the great content

[@gravyblue]

Dave! There's products that you apply topically that completely stop sweat.

[@living4adrenaline]

Also easier to get injured if you weight 90 kilos.. Thanks for the video

[@carlbowkett4588]

Thanks for sharing. With your warm up for your sessions is it always the same and your cool down or does this vary? Also on your warm up if you know it’s gonna be a bad session will you still go ahead with session or just doing something else all together or maybe nothing at all and call it there? Thanks.

[@deapthought1156]

Beast.

[@dominickappeler5150]

Hey Dave nice video👍 I didn't understand the name of the holdsmaker who makes these small crimps. Can you write it down? Thx

[@gwynforroberts9434]

Could you be feeling the cold temps more due to your lower body fat percentage? Great vid

[@ciepularys]

Yes most def

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

I'm lower body fat than Dave and the moment I stop moving...brrr!

[@thedanjel]

23:53 I do feel be er 👍😆

[@56curious]

Sounds a bit silly, but I always worry about trying "too hard" when im recovering. For example since aug/sep I damaged my hammy with a heel hook that was too high (kept doing it maybe 7 times and didn't hurt till the next day). I still feel it if I were to try a hard heel hook or use the leg too much. Also had a similar issue a while back with a a2 finger pulley. Anyway, because of this I never wanna try too hard as to not make it worse. How do you deal with the try hard aspect?

[@Cabentung]

does anybody know the measurements of daves wall or a video where he mention it?? cheers chris

[@jefflau974]

How long was this session?

[@ajasinski187]

What kind of pants are those?

[@babubb3445]

Injury requires surgery, you got something else

[@christineholmberg7431]

Maybe the camera makes you stronger like that other strong climber on KZbin? Collab❔

[@alexmacleod9727]

Magnus shaves his chest.....

[@terraflow__bryanburdo4547]

He should make a video of it...he'll get a million views straight away!

[@dakiblabla]

I have an idea for a fun episode: you could take Frankie Boyle climbing (which I guess would be his first time). That would be a hilarious one. Also, Dave, I'll have you know that I just blew a thousand euros on a powerstation following your advice to have a hangboard at home. Hope it works and thanks!

[@guillermoramontorres430]

De cara estas bonito.

[@WillTheFrozen]

rhino skin really helps sweaty tips

[@ryanthomas4549]

"I'm not a very good ice climber or mixed climber" Hah

[@guillermoramontorres430]

Dave disculpa te falta desarrollo pectoral y mas musculos.