How to Train for Climbing [Full Body Guide ft. Dan Beall]

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Videos mentioned:
Core Strength vs. Body Tension (Ep. 123): • Why Climbers Should Re...
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00:00 Intro and Overview
00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice
00:02:06 Upper Body: Vertical Pull (Anatomy)
00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance
00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations
00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo
00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form
00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression
00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range
00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note
00:10:30 Upper Body: Horizontal Pull (Anatomy)
00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance
00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation
00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo
00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression
00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range
00:21:30 Upper Body: Shoulder External Rotation (Anatomy)
00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance
00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation
00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo
00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression
00:30:25 Upper Body: Compression (Anatomy)
00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance
00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation
00:33:47 Upper Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance
00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation
00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo
00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations
00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range
00:42:23 Upper Body: Fingers, Hands, Wrist (Anatomy)
00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance
00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations
00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression
00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started
00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form
00:51:59 Lower Body: Push (Anatomy)
00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance
00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo
00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression
00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression
00:55:43 Lower Body: Pull (Anatomy)
00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance
00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo
00:57:27 Lower Body: Toe Hook (Anatomy)
00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations
00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo
01:00:25 Lower Body: Heel Hook (Anatomy)
01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations
01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo
01:05:52 Lower Body: Hip Abduction & Adduction (Anatomy)
01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance
01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo
01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 125
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
Anatomy Images (WikiCommons): Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
FHL, gastrocnemius, peroneals, tibialis: Polygon data were generated by Database Center for Life Science (DBCLS)[2], CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Quads: BodyParts3D/Anatomography, CC BY-SA 2.1 JP, via Wikimedia Commons
Hamstrings: BruceBlaus, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons
Adductors: Beth ohara, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle and Toe Extensors: OpenStax College, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Ankle Movement: Connexions, CC BY 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

[@HoopersBeta]

⚡Please support free content on this channel (and sometimes even get discounts!) by purchasing through out affiliate links: www.hoopersbeta.com/store For coaching inquiries with Dan: [e-mail] ⌛ TIMESTAMPS BELOW! 00:00:00 Intro and Overview 00:00:36 Basic Context & Programming Advice // UPPER BODY // 00:02:06 // Upper Body: VERTICAL PULL (Anatomy) 00:03:01 1. Vertical Pull: Relevance 00:03:48 2. Vertical Pull: Exercise Recommendations 00:04:45 3. Vertical Pull: Exercise Demo 00:06:05 4. Vertical Pull: "Bad" Form 00:07:04 5. Vertical Pull: Progression 00:09:21 6. Vertical Pull: Rep Range 00:10:03 7. Vertical Pull: Final Note 00:10:30 // Upper Body: HORIZONTAL PULL (Anatomy) 00:11:18 1. Horizontal Pull: Relevance 00:13:47 2. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Recommendation 00:14:57 3. Horizontal Pull: Exercise Demo 00:17:31 4. Horizontal Pull: Progression 00:19:59 5. Horizontal Pull: Rep Range 00:21:30 // Upper Body: SHOULDER EXTERNAL ROTATION (Anatomy) 00:22:07 1. Shoulder External Rotation: Relevance 00:23:23 2. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Recommendation 00:24:36 3. Shoulder External Rotation: Exercise Demo 00:27:20 4. Shoulder External Rotation: Progression 00:30:25 Upper Body: COMPRESSION (Anatomy) 00:31:48 1. Compression: Relevance 00:32:35 2. Compression: Exercise Recommendation 00:33:47 // Upper Body: PUSH (Anatomy) 00:34:45 1. Push: Relevance 00:36:02 2. Push: Exercise Recommendation 00:37:39 3. Push: Exercise Demo 00:38:30 4. Push: Easier Variations 00:41:58 5. Push: Rep Range 00:42:23 // Upper Body: FINGERS, HANDS, WRISTS (Anatomy) 00:43:41 1. Fingers: Relevance 00:44:32 2. Fingers: General Recommendations 00:45:24 3. Fingers: Programming & Progression 00:47:48 4. Fingers: How to Get Started 00:49:14 5. Fingers: Hangboard Form // LOWER BODY // 00:51:59 // Lower Body: PUSH (Anatomy) 00:52:57 1. Leg Push: Relevance 00:53:47 2. Leg Push: Exercise Demo 00:54:30 3. Leg Push: Progression 00:54:50 4. Leg Push: Final Note & Progression 00:55:43 // Lower Body: PULL(Anatomy) 00:56:41 1. Leg Pull: Relevance 00:57:21 2. Leg Pull: Exercise Demo 00:57:27 // Lower Body: TOE HOOK (Anatomy) 00:58:33 1. Toe Hook: Relevance & Recommendations 00:59:41 2. Toe Hook: Quick Technique Demo 01:00:25 // Lower Body: HEEL HOOK (Anatomy) 01:01:47 1. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Relevance & Recommendations 01:03:22 2. Heel Hook / Hamstrings: Exercise Demo 01:05:52 // Lower Body: HIP ABDUCTION & ADDUCTION (Anatomy) 01:07:02 1. Hip Abduction/Adduction: Relevance 01:07:49 2. Hip Adductors: Exercise Demo // CONCLUSION // 01:08:39 Dan Beall Coaching Info & Conclusion

[@_alessz]

will you make a video on grip strength and grip training (wrists, fingers, hand) i really lack in that field and dont know anything about it nor do i know how to train or what to train types of grips too

[@AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

This is outstanding, really. And the structure allows you to go to the section you need when you want it. Incredibile, really!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Appreciate the comment/feedback :)

[@manocaio123]

I was watching your video yesterday on Pete Whitakker! Awesome job! Between this channel, lattice and yours I just dont feel like I can have better sources of education when it comes to climbing training and psychology :) Cheers from Brazil!

[@AllegraClimbingPsychologist]

@@manocaio123 wow never would have thought to be put side to side with Hooper and Lattice 😍 Thank you so much!

[@pascalporedda958]

This content is crazy. It’s gonna be so valuable for so many people over many years. Thanks for this!

[@thanh-thomasnguyen7969]

Holy cow, this is THE video for climb training. Phenomenal.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew! Thank you!

[@thanh-thomasnguyen7969]

@@HoopersBeta In the principle of specificity, the closer an exercise resembles the actual targeted movement the more useful the exercise is. Is there a reason why most of the exercises in this video are off the wall; Wouldn't on-the-wall exercises would be more useful for climbing? Also, the focus of this video to me was physical/full body exercises, but is there anything you could elaborate on (or direct to a previous video) for training cycles (macrocycle, mesocycle, etc.) and power systems training (anaerobic, aerobic)? Thank you for your hard work HoopersBeta!

[@debradaugherty8287]

Exercises for the not super strong: (1) 14:57 Horizontal Row with Barbell (2) 23:24 Shoulder External Rotation with light bar/dumbbells (3) Bench and Overhead Press 36:24 (4) 51:14 Hang board (probably not fully weighted) in position shown (5) Pulling on Band with Toe 58:58 (6) Hamstring curls with Monkey Feet weight attachments 1:02:57 (7) Sliders holding on to countertop or chair 1:07:50. Thank you guys!! Great tips!

[@RM-xq7gf]

Source?

[@78jtfvhiuuygiuyg]

@@RM-xq7gf The video

[@ayuminor]

In the vertical pull demo preamble all I could hear is "scoopy da scapula" (5:39). Will do Dan, will do.

[@nicholasb9279]

As somebody coming from weight training to climbing who loves the science behind everything as well as the balance between "the most optimal" vs what is realistic and necessary, this video and this channel is absurd. It's incredible. Thank you.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind words!

[@meganh7526]

It sounds kind of obvious in retrospect, but I want to credit your videos for helping me to think differently about not just training for climbing, but time management in general for achieving goals. Your outlook about how you choose to allocate the limited time we have to devote to our hobbies and goals has guided me to be more mindful about the importance of being thoughtful and strategic when pursuing said goals.

[@projectone1022]

This is such a relieving guide, no other channel combines anatomy and practical exercises in such a seemless way. I will be including the techniques and concepts into my training!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind comment! Hope this guide continues to help you for a long time!

[@gustafsjostrand]

Wow absolutely epic! Talk about threading everything together :) You guys are killing it, many thanks.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for the comment and you're welcome! Hope you enjoy it!

[@Biamondos982]

LETS GOOOOO NEW HOOPER'S BETA VID

[@HoopersBeta]

Hope you enjoy it! Grab a snack it's a long one ;)

[@sjoerddejong7601]

Oh heck yeah! An hour long video from Hooper's Beta featuring Dan Beall. I'm waiting to put this on my TV when I get home :D

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew! Grab some popcorn, or just any delicious snack I suppose ;)

[@oisinweitzman5410]

Great video! Would love to see a follow-up about periodisation and long-term training plans 😊

[@Strummify]

I cant believe this is free

[@1990Cornetto]

Very professional coach. He knows his stuff!

[@Noshuas]

I unironically love you all. Thank you.

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha thank you for the clear comment ;) We all appreciate your kind words.

[@justenminnocci9562]

This is an invaluable resource you all have created. Thank you, I see myself coming back to this video many times throughout my training. ❤

[@HoopersBeta]

That's exactly why we created this :) Thank you for the kind comment.

[@fredpilk7759]

@@HoopersBeta Thank you so much for this video! I did the inverted rows on the rings for the first time yesterday and I feel like i've been hit by a train .. in a good way :P :D

[@playwithbugs]

It was super generous of all of you to put this together. Thank you!!

[@aviduke]

Nice detail. +1 new subscriber from an old experienced climber

[@kiul6075]

This video is gold. Thank-you and I love the channel.

[@jaredandress4304]

Thank you so much for putting this content out there for free for everyone. I'm sure it took a substantial amount of time to put this all together.

[@hypelloid1312]

The video I waited for, thank you for providing us with such high quality training and health videos!

[@williamgodfrey7256]

This is the most structured detail video I’ve been able to find about climbing strength progression thank you!!!

[@caesarsol]

I'm astonished at the quality of this video! it answers half of the questions I've ever had, and with great detail.

[@junej.8030]

This is exactly what I've been looking for! Outstanding work, thanks a lot!

[@ricardodominguez5066]

This is the best KZbin video I've seen in a while!!! Amazing job very clearly and completely explained. Loved it!

[@jurerepe5641]

Sweet baby Ondra, this is amazing

[@ponsilliusvii6290]

Amazing content man, forwarded to all my climbing mates this is so useful :)

[@sethg4584]

Thankyou very much for this thorough guide.The comprehensive description of each exercise, the muscle groups responsible and how to safely train them especially exertion vs injury pain. Will be rewatching many times in the future!

[@dustinspinner2040]

Thanks for this mega guide. You guys rock.

[@aliciahull]

I’ve been trying to piece together this information from so many sources, this is invaluable, thank you!

[@loganladd1523]

Great video! Some really good concepts in there explained well. Nice work and thanks .

[@laurenstagg8077]

Can't thank you enough for this video, it is incredible! Your whole channel is so well done, such an amazing resource 👏

[@leoingson]

Wow, HUGE video! This will make my evening (and plan hopefully). Thanks in advance!

[@juaresbarbosa3833]

Wow absolutely awesome! Thank you very much. Would you consider a similar video for mobility?

[@andyyy.climbs]

Amazing video! I have been looking for specific exercise recommendations with proper technique demonstrations and this popped up in my feed just at the right time.

[@zetorux]

18:35 I love all the subtle goofy shit you guys sneak into your videos 😂

[@John-mi9dx]

Really went all out for this video, much appreciated

[@lucas.6731]

I really love the content on your channel, because I genuinely trust your expertise and I really like the fun you put into learning these things! I’m actually in need of a video for triceps tendinopathy and how to treat it! Keep up the great work!

[@cornalito]

Each video is better than the last. This is going to be a hard one to beat. Excellent job

[@arnesl929]

Don’t know why I have not come across your channel before. So extensive info.

[@HoopersBeta]

Better late than never 😅 welcome to the channel!

[@quoozie]

Super informative and well presented! Love it

[@alicelarpthaveesarp1400]

Saved and shared! Thank you so much for such great info!

[@varunagarwal2470]

This a very thorough video, thank you so much for all the super detailed technical information.

[@tomerb37]

Thank you so much guys, this is exactly what I needed. Should be the go to video for every climber looking to get into training for climbing.

[@rosebflowin]

Incredible works guys. 🎉

[@lllogggs]

After years of climbing and training i can confirm this is the best, most efficient off the wall training workout suggestions and strategies to implement into a program. And will definitely eliminate “garbage” miles. Thanks guys.

[@andriussadauskas4317]

As always, amazing video, 12 points from 10 😄 thanks for sharing!

[@benjaminbarigazzi5680]

A great lower body exercise that I recommend for training hamstrings and a little bit of core stability are fitball bridges. (I will now try do describe it to the best of my abilities). You, of course, get a fitball lie down on the floor then place your feet on the ball and from there you bend your knees trying to keep your trunk/core in line with the legs. It's great because you can then progress by only doing it one leg at a time, or just using one leg for the eccentric or concentric part and then using both legs for the other part. Of you can do it with only one leg, try doing it keeping the other leg straight or bending it to reduce the intensity. Usually do 3 sets of 10 on each side and go home with my legs on fire so I hope it's usefull for others :)

[@frost9239]

Been scouring for this gem thank you sm

[@Roubainx]

10/10 content. I am going to become a member to support this content

[@Jen-vp7gt]

Wao 1 hour of full information! This is really amazing! You are leveling up the climbing skills of many and preventing I juries for even more! This video is amazing for the ones that are going from intermediate to advanced climbing and don't really know where to start!

[@Carlito2046]

Awesome! Great structure, explanation and detail. Will never need another video on training for climbing ❤

[@robbory]

wow what an incredible video, thank you

[@Djdavidnyan]

Thanks a lot, this was an excellent video! I will use to focus my training plan in what is going to drive better climbing! Thx!!❤

[@jussisihvonen3152]

Thank you so much. This is invaluable!

[@SpeciesV1X]

This is gold for training!

[@martins.5184]

Thank u for making this

[@WesHuesos]

LOVE THIS VIDEO. Thanks Dr. Hoops!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! We love this comment ;)

[@i0am0hamm]

This video is awesome, thank you!

[@metyu3730]

Great vid, tones of information, thank you!

[@ethanharley8805]

Impressive content! Looking forward to unpack in more and helping me with my climbing programming. Hand board form 101 and leg training to include balance are nice take aways at first glance.

[@borisbolshoi7317]

I really appreciate the time and effort you've spent on this video. I feel like there is a probably a section or few for everyone that they can use that's specific to them.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! That was one of our goals :)

[@olabystrom5265]

Amazing content!

[@thekye]

Great vid, covered a lot of ground. Great to get this higher level with a whole picture view,

[@harlimaw]

Thank you! What a treasure of a content!

[@noevidencebasedopinion8776]

A thousand Thanks ! Megagiga quality content. You are gold on internet

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind words! The entire team appreciates hearing that :)

[@MP-bx3uj]

Started watching. Got really stoked. Saving for later when I can write notes and focus on this epic content. Thank you for sharing!!!

[@HoopersBeta]

Nice! That sounds like a great plan. Happy to hear of the stoke :)

[@AlessandroCaroli]

Awesome content, thanks

[@oliverlin5700]

Can I give more than one thumbs up? 😄 Awesome summary and explanations!🤘

[@muscularibuprofen69]

Incredible and valuable resource. Thank you.

[@jeremyclimbs]

LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!! +1 vote for a periodisation video

[@luciocardoso6306]

This might just be the best video on youtube hahah

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you!

[@soumyajitmandal6595]

Jason, thanks so much for this! I am so happy that I reached out to you in the past and cannot recommend enough your contents to my friend :)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind comment and support, Jit! I hope you're doing well :)

[@aries_9130]

This covers 99% of r/climbharder's "I need a training plan" posts. Outstanding.

[@KungFoo1]

If you wanted to create the best climbing training video of all time, you did it!! Congratulations and thank you so much.

[@HoopersBeta]

❤️❤️

[@haidarfakih2987]

I deeply appreciate the effort and care put into this video. Thank you so much!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad it was helpful!

[@sonnsingh]

Wow this is directly going into my saved list! Thank you for sharing this!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad it was helpful!

[@nowelsss]

Great video, thanks

[@chelseaanderson3329]

Thank you for the beautifully organized and articulated training program!

[@HoopersBeta]

Our pleasure!

[@ramdop]

thx for in depth and very structured video

[@anjalilakra15]

so much knowledge in this video. Thanks a lot!

[@karstdeviz3858]

Thank you so much for this video! I'm so grateful for all this information. I also love how you can see Dan is thoughtful about every word he is saying, not making it too complex but also not too simple.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for the kind words + feedback!

[@user-fr4oq5wr5s]

The quality of this video is purely outstanding! Thank you so much

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@PS-nm8wk]

Thank you for this awesome video. As always, you managed to keep it light with some humor in there, so it's fun to watch. Train, climb, send, make a video, repeat please!

[@HoopersBeta]

Hah I like the modified version :) Thank you for the kind words!

[@Rosenblut001]

You've blessed so many people with this video. Thank you very much! It is so well made and structured, packed with only relevant information. I'll be definiteley coming back to this. Thanks a lot!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@lizosaurusrex]

Woo! Thank you guys! You're the best!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks so much!

[@SnowmansApartment]

Thanks so much, it‘s massively helpful to get a general idea what to work on and what maybe be a waste of time and energy. This is definitely one of the best climbing training videos i‘ve seen in years!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for sharing those kind words!

[@Willoops]

This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thank you so much

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad we could help!

[@alan_long]

Thought this was awesome! Tons of great info laid out in a really clear way with great examples. I did notice that this focused primarily on acessory training for climbing. Would love to see something in this format that covers climbing specific training (endurances protocls, strength, power endurance, etc) Thanks as always!

[@SnowmansApartment]

so psyched, thank you so much for this!

[@HoopersBeta]

Our pleasure! It was a fun mega vid to make!

[@dekun007]

This is the video i needed. Thanks allot!!!!

[@stitch3163]

Wow! This is an extraordinarily helpful and educational video. Thanks to you, Dan and the crew for putting this together.

[@HoopersBeta]

Our pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it.

[@wrongbeta]

Dude, masterclass! Thank you for this, def the best climbing channel out there.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind compliment! We definitely appreciate it.

[@carlosfuentes5538]

This is amazing, my life as a climber has been so much better because of you guys!

[@carlosfuentes5538]

Thanks a lot for the effort put into this video.

[@Basileclimbing]

Just perfect, best climbing video ever, nothing else to add.

[@HoopersBeta]

Hah thank you! Much appreciated.

[@andrewscott5059]

Such an excellent video, especially for people newer to external training for climbing. I had a few notes or questions on the video's contents, based on my personal experience. First, I think periodization, at least mesocycles, should have been mentioned somewhere given this is beginner focused. Many people new to strength training exclude this critical component, and as a result plateau after a few months of constant progressive overload. It's especially relevant for physical strength exercises like pullups that require a high level of recovery. Something I would have liked to hear more about specifically for climbing is machine based isolation exercises. They're maybe not the most common in climbing gyms, but they are everywhere in commercial gyms and present another unique tool for training. The one that came to mind as potentially valuable was be a seated row machine, as a replacement for barbell/dumbbell rows. The ability to prevent "cheating" on the movement by keeping it to a shoulder exercise (removing the possibility of using the back) seems valuable, and with the right machine it also gives you more options for wrist positioning. The downside would be lowering the use of other stabilizing muscles, but I would love to hear what you think about it. Another question I have for you is one of specificity and timing: How should somebody of any skill level determine an efficient ratio between climbing, climbing specific training, and more GPP training? I know this question is probably impossible to answer without a whole video on it, but at the very least I'd like to know a good way of telling when somebody should first consider starting more general training to complement their climbing, and maybe a solid time/fatigue ratio for climbing/sport specific training to general training among intermediate to advanced climbers (v7-11ish).

[@kiul6075]

Thanks!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks! :)

[@isabelledecarniere6879]

fantastic video. Very comprehensive, and well explained. Thanks so much!

[@HoopersBeta]

You're very welcome!

[@marks3440]

Hamstring slider curls are pretty excellent. Mentioning this because if I’m backing off a bouldering problem, half the time it’s the hamstrings that I’m avoiding.