Making Some Home Made Bore Cleaning Solvent - Actually Works

[@rkba4923]

The acetone will evaporate over time. Also, you can leave out the acetone unless you need to clean plastic from shotgun barrels and such. You could also add lanolin for long term storage properties.

[@sislertx]

Wonder if thoa would work as a styzon ink remover..it is solvent based....

[@JB-cv6dz]

The acetone and ATF can also be used to make penetrating oil to help with rusted and stuck fasteners.

[@FullLeadTaco]

Good to know, thanks

[@raycouch6953]

Can you make the salmon and will it work without acetone thank you

[@tc96z1]

I’ve made this formula minus the acetone to use on my polymer SigPro and all metal hand guns to literally bath the things. After a bath I spray all the parts with any cheap lubricant to neutralize the solvents and blow/wipe the excess oil off with compressed air or clean rags. Then lube metal to metal moving parts with gear oil (80W-90) available at Walmart $6 a qt. Just leave the damn acetone out and it’s just fine on every thing it won’t even hurt wood if you don’t leave it on there too long; it’s totally the cheapest way out. I don’t think twice about not using it on my colt 1911 stainless steal 10 mm that I have over 1000 Dollars in upgrades. About the only thing I wouldn’t use it on would be a red dot sight and I don’t have a burning desire for one.

[@FullLeadTaco]

yeah, one bottle of this stuff lasts me a very long time.

[@clinchleatherwood1012]

My luck I put the lid on, shake it up and BOOM! Explosion! haha.

[@FullLeadTaco]

lol, this stuff is a known mix

[@mglass98]

Do you think this would be safe to use on a gun with a polymer frame such as a Glock? I’m afraid the chemicals might deteriorate or discolor the polymer. Thanks and great video!

[@FullLeadTaco]

In general you want to keep the solvents off of polymers and wood. I mostly use solvents (including this one) to clean the bore or metal parts that are highly fouled up. Then after I get the crap off, I follow up with a light coating of oil.

[@FullLeadTaco]

But in answer to your question, I do use it with my glocks, but keep it off the polymers.

[@tc96z1]

I’ve made this formula minus the acetone to use on my polymer SigPro and all metal hand guns to literally bath the things. After a bath I spray all the parts with any cheap lubricant to neutralize the solvents and blow/wipe the excess oil off with compressed air or clean rags. Then lube metal to metal moving parts with gear oil (80W-90) available at Walmart $6 a qt. Just leave the damn acetone out and it’s just fine on every thing it won’t even hurt wood if you don’t leave it on there too long; it’s totally the cheapest way out. I don’t think twice about not using it on my colt 1911 stainless steal 10 mm that I have over 1000 Dollars in upgrades. About the only thing I wouldn’t use it on would be a red dot sight and I don’t have a burning desire for one.

[@tc96z1]

At minute 3:40 next time turn the can around and pour with the spout at the top instead of the bottom when its a full container. That way air can displace the fluid without creating a vacuum causing the spills. It will also the unit cost lower not wasting nuthin.