Fun Aluminum Projects on My Turbo MKII Supra (Building a Catch Can & Coolant Overflow)

Available BPA Manifolds: www.bpautosports.net/availabl...
BPA Garage Sale: www.bpautosports.net/garage-sale
BPA Website: www.bpautosports.net
BPA Facebook: / bpautosports
BPA Instagram: / bpautosports
Supra Build Diary: / silver_bullet_supra

[@Barton_Motors_Ltd]

Looks amazing man

[@jimmyramirez8844]

Fire work looks great 👍

[@AlexLindner]

Thank you for your kind words and support.

[@GTORx7]

Got the good music flowing with the good welding.

[@AlexLindner]

That's the goal with every episode. We'll need to do a better feature of the RX-7 this season.

[@philmariop]

Very nice work. RE baffling - motion race works offers a neat billet widget that bolts to the top of valve covers, adding (3) baffles and a threaded connection for your choice of hose. This helps keep oil in the crank case.

[@AlexLindner]

Thank you for your kind words. I'm familiar with those Motion pieces, I like the ingenuity of those parts.

[@peatergriffin]

I really enjoy making catch cans. I actually bought a tig welder and learnt to use it just so I could make one for my car. I did however get consumed by the science in tig welding and burnt 2 years or so while my car stopped my jack stands from falling over. I'm glad I took the journey and its by far my most valuable tool and skill I have now.

[@AlexLindner]

They're a blast to put together. It's easy to go down the rabbit hole with TIG, although it's one of the most useful tools to have on your belt. The two years wasn't for nothing: now you can use the skills you've learned to construct whatever you can imagine.

[@peatergriffin]

@@AlexLindner Yeah most certainly, I don't regret it one bit. Now that I've watched every tig welding video available in the world I've been working back on my car and drove it for the first time in a decade. I also made a twin stainless 3" and a radiator overflow. I even like to just go into the shed and lay beads on a scrap ali plate just for therapy and to stay sharp. Relaxing stuff.

[@AlexLindner]

@@peatergriffin I'm glad to hear you're able to enjoy your project now. While these projects can seem like insurmountable mountains at different points, finally being able to drive and enjoy them is a magical experience. It's even better when you have parts you've built yourself on them. Keep at it and keep welding, even if it's just practice beads. Maintaining currency will only help you learn and grow more.

[@lexeg1]

Awesome work brother. The mk2 bay looks beautiful . How do you tag weld aluminum without filler rod?

[@AlexLindner]

It's coming together better than I'd imagined it would. Doing a fusion tack on aluminum is relatively the same as DC work. A quick pedal pump to inundate that spot with heat and quickly cause the two pieces to melt together. However, I've only had luck with it on sheet metal outside corner joints and reserve this tactic for those occasions. In my experience, it's easy to blow holes in tubing and, if you're able to get the two sides to melt together, nine times out of ten the tack will crack.

[@rickfazzini22]

Outstanding welds as always! Got a few Questions for ya, so it looks like you don’t sand the surface of the aluminum before welding this doesn’t create any problems for you with weld contamination? What diameter filler are you using? Thanks

[@AlexLindner]

Thank you for your kind words. I'll typically take a stainless brush and scrub the joints to clean them before I weld, but have also welded them directly out of the fab room without issue. That isn't necessarily the best practice to use, although I haven't had noticeable issues provided the material I'm using is new and clean. In regards to filler rod, I generally use 3/32" 5356 filler for my aluminum work. I have 1/16" 5356 filler as well, although I'd guess at least 90% of the aluminum welding I do is with 3/32".

[@craigfiles7067]

On the oil catch can instead of the bulky sight tube you could have used a dip stick made out of allen head bolt with a rod welded to it screwing into a bung on a 15 to 20 degree angle I think it would look nicer

[@AlexLindner]

I considered doing something similar to that but opted for the sight tube instead. I like the idea of being able to physically see the can's contents rather than trying to interpret fluid level on a dip stick.

[@B18tegg]

Great job as usual Alex! Did you have to run a high frequency to help the weld bead not penetrate through the other side when welding the internal baffle pieces? I've done catch cans in .090" so I've had to turn up the frequency, but I haven't done one in .125" so i was just curious.

[@AlexLindner]

Thank you for your kind words. I typically run around 165hz which is what I did here. To avoid penetrating through the sides of the tank body, I pedal pulsed the internal welds. Controlling the amperage and only applying significant heat when I'm adding filler rod has proven to be an effective way to minimize visible penetration/distortion on the outside of the tank, in my experience.

[@B18tegg]

@@AlexLindner Thanks for your insight. I'll have to try .125" and see how it goes. I'll definitely refer to your settings/method if I have any issues.

[@AlexLindner]

@@B18tegg Give it a try and see if you like it. However, remember that everyone welds differently and what works for me may not be best for you. Hopefully it gives you a foundation to build upon.

[@orlandojoelpr]

Can you share the filter part no?

[@AlexLindner]

Absolutely, it's K&N BM-3117.

[@nucleart0aster]

how do you drain it?

[@AlexLindner]

I installed an 8 ORB bung on the bottom of the tank. It has a corresponding plug that seals it until it's time to drain. At that point, I'll remove the can, remove the plug, and drain its contents.

[@megabassbennylippo3760]

Get self some step drills bud

[@AlexLindner]

I have some but didn't see a need to use them here. There are multiple ways to skin the cat.