These SKILLS Change Everything About Car Restorations

[@lucashawkins9575]

Hey Travis, I’m a 21 yr old collision tech that does restoration projects in my spare time. I just wanted to say I love your videos and the things you teach has helped me so much with both collision and restoration. Especially making the switch from Durablocks to the acrylic style hard blocks completely changed what I’m capable of. I really appreciate the time you take to make these videos for us.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

That is awesome! Thank you glad they help!!

[@graycatgarage]

As a mere hobbyist, Sylvester Customs is an invaluable resource. Thanks guys!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You're very welcome.

[@multirole240]

Excellent information and so well presented. No shouting or screaming, just sensible speech. A absolute pleasure to learn from you as always Thank you for posting.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@grahambrown7720]

Fantastic detail and pace. Really demonstrates that finishing isn’t a ten minute exercise and can’t be taught in ten minutes, but is achievable, thanks again

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@fredbarnes3969]

GREAT HOW TOO WITH KENS DISK. I BOUGHT ONE about 10 years ago. Also thanks for talking about safety, I have a 1 inch cut in my knee cap from that disk. (you do have watch where you sit down. Thanks again. Fred Barnes

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You bet!

[@stillraven9415]

They never taught this in class! Thanks! We started with perfect sheets and tried to shape them never the other way around.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

That’s not metal finishing that’s metal shaping. Two different things. Hope that helps

[@stillraven9415]

@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS yeah, this is very interesting

[@NorthWalesAutomotive]

​@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMSwe call it forming here in the UK 🤙

[@midnighttutor]

Crown of the dolly vs crown of the hammer...that explains the last two years of my metal working challenges. Thanks for the G-2!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad to help

[@CarlosMendez-hs8yi]

Brillantly explained Travis this video is just excepcional loads of information learned loads well great thank you and keep uploading

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@stevemurphy402]

Nice job Travis, thanks for showing us what’s involved to take a panel like this back to straight. Ken’s class is on my bucket list. Cheers

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

It’s a must!! Thanjs

[@davidlongo7293]

Another awesome video, Travis. It would be nice to see a video of your current projects.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you if you look us up on Instagram, we post daily of what we have going on maybe in the future we will do a video on KZbin

[@davidlongo7293]

@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Great, following you on Instagram.

[@travlite8496]

Can you make a CD where we can watch what happens in you're classes for purchase?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Maybe in the future

[@SkaterStimm]

I have been doing this for the last week to my crushed roof and my hands are blue from the sanding of the dykem. It is coming out amazingly good, the shrinking disk is genius.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Awesome!!!

[@paulnewton943]

Great tutorial Travis. Only thing I could possibly add is ken should link this video with his. Thanks once again for hooking me up with ken. Not only is he a master, but incredibly patient. Ask me how I know.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Getting Ken to do that might be a task 🤣

[@hqlion]

Brilliant, thorough video! I liked how you said start in the good or better areas first and work your way to the bad areas so you understand the shape of the panel and then sneak up on the bad parts. That makes so much sense, but no “expert” has ever said that. I guess it’s hard for many experts to remember such maybe basic things when teaching novices.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

That’s how Ken Sakamoto also teaches it 👍🏻 thank you

[@grantlattner3909]

Your videos are my go to for learning. Well explained with the logic behind the technique. I wanted to share something taught to me while painting/repairing yachts. Guide coating with graphite can get expensive. We mixed a couple of drops of dykem in acetone and wiped that on the area we were working. The acetone dries quickly and doesnt clog paper. Just sharing. Thank for your insight, Grant

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thanks for sharing! I can see where that would be helpful 👍🏻 just gotta get it all off completely. Paint won’t stick to dykem at all. Found that out long ago.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

If you are searching how to get ahold of Ken Sakamoto go to description and scroll down his phone and links are attached 👍🏻

[@stevenburleigh9532]

Hello Travis my name is Terry I’m a retired ups mechanic.i was always interested in metallurgy and never followed that path so I have a 56 nomad that I have put together it was a rust bucket .now that I’ve seen your videos it has gotten me a second wind !! Your very good at what you do thank you for sharing your knowledge!!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You are very welcome

[@alexhickey8869]

Love the video! I’ve been wanting to take both Ken’s and Wray’s classes they offer for metal finishing and so on. Both are super skilled. My finances on the other hand are lack luster, so I’ve had to learn metal finishing here on KZbin and just from the school of hard knocks 😂. I appreciate you sharing some of what Ken taught you! The biggest thing I would like to add and it’s probably contradictory to what Ken and Wray teach is using water to cool the panel down. I prefer to let the panel cool down naturally with no help. It can harden the material you’re working with, and can cause uneven shrinkage which you touched on. Now, I generally use way more heat than you showed, but I’m fixing stuff that got beat up by people with anger issues and probably should’ve went to the scrap yard 🤣. And I understand that you waited 10-15 seconds before quenching and that helps tremendously to keep it from hardening, but I don’t recall if you mentioned hardening.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

I would agree with this if you have the time, but the biggest thing is running a business doing it for a living if I waited for the panel to cool down every time it would take 10 times as long, but you are definitely correct. That is the main reason that we tried to get everything as close to ironed out as we can with the hammer and dolly so that way you’re only using the shrinking disk minimally, good luck on the finances lol I highly recommend Ken’s class and Lazze

[@michaelhallas6450]

Good Video question does Ken have a website on selling those shrinking disc and other metal working tools ? Thanks

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

If you go on his instagram his phone number is on there I don’t believe he has a website. [phone] leave a message he will get back to you. If you go to the description, there’s also links to his social media pages.

[@Kevinrichardsonministries]

Awesome video... very detailed... theory and procedure... Thumbs Up !!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you kindly!

[@p-m2127]

Great vid once again Travis...I used a little soap on the surface when using my smooth edged shrinking disc as per the maker (John Kelly) I guess the serrated edge doesn't need that. I also liked the counter intuitive tip of hammering into a dip with a crowned dolly below to lift a low..good stuff!! Cheers!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you.

[@porschmn]

No wonder I've been make my simple small dents get worse rather then better using hammer, dolly and shrinking disk. Thanks for this in detail tutorial, now I hope I have the ability and patients to make them better.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Awesome hope it helps you!

[@bentnickel7487]

Man I've learned a lot from this video. Watched it 3 times, so far !!!!!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you!

[@dpatrickcallahan4510]

Great video, really apprreciate you sharibg your knowledge. Thankyou

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

My pleasure!

[@jimdrechsel3611]

“Zen and the Art of Metalworking” Very detailed and you do a great job of promoting patience. I have a project car that has been blasted years ago and epoxy primed. It sat at locations before I bought it with stuff stacked on it and the metal for sure has some oil/grease residue in/on the metal panels/hood /trunk etc. You really stress removing ALL rust pits or it will come back. The car does have new panels as well. Areas not replaced are the roof, doors, hood, trunk and taillight section. How would you attack this situation? What steps and procedures/products would you use? Degrease? DA sand with 80? Rust/metal conditioner? Rust Mort? I don’t think blasting would be a good idea cause it would impregnate contaminates into the metal. A stripping disc would rub/polish stuff into the metal. I won’t know for sure I removed all the rust from sitting years. Would you recommend using rust conditioner over the entire panels then use a converter for added insurance? Eastwood sells an encapsulator. Would you cover the blasted areas from the past with encapsulator and just seal any lingering rust in? I really don’t want to go through all this work for nothing and I can’t afford or want to dip the car. Do you have a Facebook page to share project pictures and discussion? Thanks in advance for your advice.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You already blasted it years ago why not just do it again? Yes there’s a sylvester’s customs Facebook page. I’m most active on instagram 👍🏻

[@jimdrechsel3611]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Your past discussions about blasting made me think to avoid this. If I didn't go for the blasting route how would you remove existing epoxy and prepare for a fresh coat of epoxy primer? Blasting really throws media every where and collects in areas that may create moisture. When I got the car I spent hours blowing out pockets, the frame and when I replaced rocker panels there must have been pounds of media I would never have known about. I would like to avoid as much blasting as possible. Any advice for steps and products to use if I was to remove the old stuff mechanically?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

A DA with 80 grit and strip discs. Lots of time

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

A DA with 80 grit and strip discs. Lots of time

[@jimdrechsel3611]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thanks. I’ll degrease first? Would you follow up with rust remover and/or converter products?

[@rongamble9884]

I was pretty lucky in vo tech i had an instructor that taught us rpugh out bringing metal back as far as we can and peck and file and heat shrinking

[@thomaswalther8460]

Yep!!

[@carguytroy]

if you dont have access to the back side of the panel, would it be safe to say you would somewhat over stretch the panel then shrink from the side you have access to?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

I have done that at times yes

[@SkaterStimm]

I noticed the Dykem acts like a lubricant with the shrinking disk where it doesn't get nearly as hot as a naked panel with just sharpie marker acting as a lubricant. What have you found to work well? I am also not convinced we need to use a rag to cool the panel, we want the panel to cool naturally so the molecules will relax naturally, shocking them into place seems wrong since we can't control it with a rag.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Not sure I agree with any form of lubricant. It heats the same in my opinion. But as for cooling with a rag if you take a damp rag and give it only a quick swipe it def won’t shock it as bad give it a good 15 seconds before cooling it slowly. I know when I get it to the last 10% I like to let it naturally cool also.

[@wakeup6826]

First time I saw you with rays shrink disk. What do you like better? Ken’s or rays smooth disks? What do you feel is the difference?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

I like Ken’s better. The serrated helps you to hear the exact pinpointed high spot because it will give you a louder pitch to listen for. I also feel like it creates more heat.

[@MikeSchweitzer-ww6ro]

I was hoping that the shrinking disk would be a good "metal preserving" substitute when leveling the surface? Hammering on-dolly has allowed me to retire my pick hammer. A flat board and felt marker guide coat has allowed me to retire my vixen file (for finding highs and lows). But can the shrinking disk allow me to completely retire my vixen file and/or 80--grit-on-a-grinder for leveling? Your comment about the shrinking disk not raising lows has got me thinking that the highs must not be holding the lows down?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You have to work the lows up and highs down evenly till you get the desired shape. More shaping videos coming soon.

[@scottelmer7949]

Ken's wheels are great i need one..

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

If you cannot find him, send us an email through our website and I can get you the information. sylvesterscustoms.com.

[@user-li9qx8ye6w]

So inorder to use the shrink disc right you have to flip flop right? Meaning front and back side of panel. Using the die and finding the lows tapping them up with dollie on hammer then using the shrink disc. Then thats when you have to get to the back side to use the shrink disc just on highs right? There is one spot that is kicking my butt! Its a high spot and I think its going to have a tourch to bring it down. When whoever done body work I think they had to use a high crown hammer on the outside with dollie on inside of the panel because when I used shrink dics it drawed it up and i cant get it to go back down. Could that be the problem?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You don’t need to flip flop it. It helps if you have access but not necessary. If it’s excessive then you may need a torch

[@Truthsearcherforever777]

Thanks for giving knowledge

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

It's my pleasure

[@67cudaksa34]

love this, can you do a video on areas that you can not get the the back

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

I’ll add it to my list

[@glbn6832]

Hi there Could you share a link about the hammer and dolly please

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

What I use is made by Martin brothers brand, but all of them have been sanded and corrected myself

[@glbn6832]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers :)

[@PCModelBuilder]

Travis when are you doing another metal finishing class?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Email us [e-mail]

[@brendendyson8470]

Great tips mate👍🏻

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Glad you enjoyed

[@matrltgt]

HEY SYLVESTER. HOW GOOD IS ALL U NEED PRIMER BY CLAUSEN.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Never used it sorry

[@rickyhastings8872]

I started watching this vidio and stopped , I watched 3 parts of the 49 willys that was going to be done without filler and couldn't find where you finished it ? Am I wrong?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

We are actually working on the Willys as we speak to have it done for Sema 2024. Even if you metal finish something to a mirror, there is still minimal filler that will be needed from one panel to another to make it seamless. However, this project has been going on for about five years, and the goal is its entered in battle of the builders this year. Fingers crossed. The goal of these videos is to show people what the possibilities are and not abuse filler

[@MusicSensations1971]

Very interesting video !

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thanks for visiting

[@garylietz6305]

Excellent tutorial......

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@MikeSchweitzer]

Raising lows by on-dolly slapping/hammering works great, but I can't explain why! It's counterintuitive that hammering or slapping on-dolly in a low area would raise the low area. I say this because the low area is stretched as the result of some accident, and hammer/slapper on-dolly only stretches it further! I'd think that we'd end up with more stretching after the on-dolly work? Perhaps that is exactly what happens, which is why we follow up by shrinking with the shrinking disk?

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

You are definitely thinking of it correctly. It is already stretched hence why it is low. But you have to stretch it upward. The reason that it’s coming up is because it is taking the shape of the lower crown on the dolly for example, if you had a hammer that had more crown than the dolly you were using, it would go the wrong direction. The best way to think about it is you have to balloon it slightly upward so that way you can get to the point to shrink it. With that being said if you have an area that is low and stretched to begin with, if you had back access, you could shrink the backside and create the best result

[@MikeSchweitzer]

@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Okay, now I understand. It's the same as taking a dolly and driving a dent out from below, which creates a bulge above the proper contour that we then shrink. Your comment about "creating a potato chip" by using a shrinking disk on both sides of a panel has me cautious, as I do have complete access to the backside. I'm doing the last 5% of this job (restoring a low crown 1970 GM hood with the inner brace removed), which of course takes 95% of the time, so all the lows are very minor and seem tailor made for the shrinking disk. They're probably too subtle for torch shrinking. Thank you so much for your comments, and of course these videos.

[@kenpiscitelli2703]

Great info thanks

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you

[@paulcommins-t6r]

Very very good ...

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@troyadams1076]

Great video

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thanks!

[@glennbevan8743]

I prefer to use a small air nozzle for cooling rather than the wet rag two things for the same effect

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Yes and no. I think as long as the air is far away to direct it evenly it’s acceptable

[@lazyhoundracing9621]

Awesome.

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thanks!

[@michaelmacpherson-wm6mh]

I bought my shrinking disc so long ago it came with a VHS tape. those things are dangerous!

[@TheInsaneShecklador]

Wray Schelin sells a version with turned up edges making it a little bit safer.

[@ChrisDonald-u9j]

In the same breath i have a 95 4x4 so it's ok that it is not perfect

[@ChrisDonald-u9j]

Have never had any instucion on this guess was just luck to understand any of this from body shop school

[@Rottingboards]

Complete Virgin to this skill: ( Ball-peen hammer strikes) So you are hammering the dents into an ever so slight upward concave surface with dolly and hammer. Then you are using heat to shrink the middle of the concaved plate. This heat will shrink the surface flat surface because the old dented area has the same concave as its surroundings. (I think I understood that correctly) Question: Why don't you use the flat surface of the table and just hammer it flat? Would this cause an upward concave surface? Would it cause you even more problems? Maybe you are not bringing the dents out too quickly so the whole plate can relax in one motion with the heat? Final Thoughts: That shrinking disk really only adds heat to whatever is above the surface. Very precise heating effect. This looks fun as hell! Thanks for your video!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Hard to teach this via KZbin comments. If you’d like a class on it see sylvesterscustoms.com a table it not perfectly flat.

[@pamdunn8454]

thanks for sharing

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Thank you too!

[@Bartolobot]

manbrave pants are a rip-off don't buy them you will be disappointed!

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Good to know. 👍

[@ChrisDonald-u9j]

Would rather see you metal finish a real car fender

[@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS]

Can’t please everybody you need to learn the basics first on a flat piece of sheet metal. This is how I learned and this is how I would expect everybody else to approach it. It makes you understand basics. We will be doing a series of Metal Shaping videos very soon. And Metal Finishing will be involved.

[@gacloud-car-tec]