Ep4: Starting the Electronics. The DIY CO2 Laser Cutter / Engraver Build Series

[@almostanengineer]

Random Tip: Always make the Earth connection slightly longer than the Live and Neutral, if it gets pulled, and comes out, it gives it a greater chance of it pulling live/neutral first leaving the earth connected until the last minute, and hopefully saving your life.

[@sylashouston5093]

You prolly dont care at all but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can offer me

[@sonnymagnus232]

@Sylas Houston Instablaster ;)

[@sylashouston5093]

@Sonny Magnus I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@sylashouston5093]

@Sonny Magnus it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thank you so much you really help me out :D

[@sonnymagnus232]

@Sylas Houston Glad I could help xD

[@greghorowitz9992]

Thank you for all of your time and effort to produce and share this wealth of knowledge and information. I was on the verge of selling my motorcycle to buy a 150w Chinese laser cutter. ($US5000.00) But now, thanks to you, I think I can build my own without the proceeds from my bike! Thank you!!!

[@FurtherFabrication]

No worries dude. though I'm torn between the loss of your bike and the fun of a new laser build.

[@AndrewTann]

This is amazing. So keen for final build log. 2 young kids makes tinkering time a rare event these days, so to have 99% of the planning done means I'll be able to achieve this build. My Arduino CNC has been sitting in 85% completion for 4 years now due to lack of test time, really liking the idea of plug and play. Cheers from across the pond.

[@KingTesticus]

I have a Full Spectrum laser that they refuse to update, so instead of ditching it (it was super expensive, $5K!) I'm seriously considering yanking out their "proprietary" electronics and installing my own... thank you for posting this video.

[@FurtherFabrication]

Sounds like a plan!

[@chellehaney942]

The heart and passion you have in sharing all of your video's and your plans... just wow. Thank you! I was going to buy one that is heavily marketing their product but I just can't seem to hit the buy button for $10k! The more of your videos I watch the more I feel I can do this! Thanks so so much.

[@tsequadrat9975]

I actually am building that beast now and it‘s a real pleasure to have your build guide! So many things I would have done wrong or would have had to change later on. Thumbs up!

[@elmigue92]

Woooowww... when that thing started moving... that feels like putting a rocket on the moon!! Love this project!!

[@samuellin9217]

doing the wiring rn can’t wait. Honestly such an amazing tutorial by @furtherfabrications.

[@xfactor529]

Open the controller up and cut out the little piezo buzzer. Simple as that

[@Bloodray19]

Maybe a better option would be to install a little switch on one of the piezo buzzer leads, so if needed, it can be turned on

[@Bloodray19]

@@snarkylive my point was to be not so drastic. I with a switch he could turn it off, but if for some reason he would need it, he could turn it on easily

[@kapytanhook]

@@Bloodray19 There should be a little hole for the sound, jabbing it repeatedly with a screwdriver will stop the infernal beeping without having to open the case.

[@pdoubleyou7801]

Blue Tack, press a small piece into the piezo buzzer this will lower the volume so it does not annoy but you still get feedback. You can always pull it out with tweezers to regain full volume.

[@sourabh5398]

Haha you really think we don't know that?

[@KaliLove707]

You have no idea how long I have been looking for an up to date laser build . I am looking forward to following your step by step . Especially on the electronics part I am in to way electronically inclined lol

[@luismaymi2873]

Great video. I like the fact that the Ruida is pretty much plug and play. Im actually moving forward with the DIY Build as soon as the last video with the details is in. I am still figuring out the focus camera option. Thanks for the Update.

[@nc1132]

dude! you are literally doing the Lord's work! thanks so much! i really appreciate this whole thing! I'm in Perth, hopefully one day we can meet and work on CNC routers and plasma cutters!

[@squermed]

Superb one again. Really enjoying this build. The wait was worth it! Kudos to your editing too.

[@ruftime]

Thank you! Looks like a great choice in controller and a smart place to spend money to save time and money. Can’t wait to build this!

[@meganebers6383]

If you were to power the z-axis, would you splice the second 24v power supply together with the mains voltage? Or get a second jug cord? Thanks!

[@gm_b5699]

Thanks for the video, I have a probleme I hope you can help me with. When I start the machine with button start or reset the head move continuously without stopping in the state initial (right top corner) Home position, what could be the cause of this problem. Thanks

[@AlanWagoner]

After all that assembly, it must have been a great feeling to see your drawing get made.

[@weldmachine]

I was thinking the same thing, lol.

[@nickolasellson]

Yay!! Docs! I was 30% on my way to reconstructing it all from rewatching your videos, over and over!! ;-) I bought all 3 just to support your efforts. But I think the fusion file will be all I need to work from, I'm a Fusion Junkie :-D

[@jaekrieldgx_71]

So I'm a bit confused because I am brand new to this and like you mentioned, electronics are not a strong suit for me either. So can you please clarify: do the electronics you are using and recommending in this video for this build - are they compatible with Lightburn? I really want to buy or build a Laser Engraver Machine that can utilize that software, or something that can operate with an internal camera - like Glowforge or similar models. ( And I really don't want to buy the K60 "Chinese Machines" - I'd rather build one) Please let me know if you see this post. Thanks in advance

[@mayakovski]

He specifically states that it works with Lightburn.

[@SaintMFLow1]

Many Thanks for all of your patience and attention to detail. I've purchased the plans and about 50% finished. Motor axis work well but Cannot get the mechanical limit switches to function. From the plans and video, it looks like they are just plug and play. Is there something that im missing? or do I need to setup in the RD8445. Also for the main power supply: plans show it connect to a 24V power supply, but there is another 24V power supply for the Z axis. Should we split the Main power so it goes to each 24 power supply so the Z axis has power too? plans dont mention it. Any help is appreciated. Again thanks for all the time you put in to this build series. Great job!

[@EspenShampoo25]

Cant wait for the next episode, i check you channel for it everyday. Anyone with me on that :D ?

[@albertcasadevall5367]

IS THE 3,2 Amp POWER SUPPLY ENOUGH TO POWER THE CONTROLLER AND THE MOTORS? Thanks!!!

[@glennmartonic6376]

a bit confused on wiring of 2 Y motors into the 1 driver since they have to turn in opposite directions....and does the ruida really support this....step loss?...

[@JelckedeBoer]

Great project! Thanks for all your effort and sharing approach. I build a 3d printer and now a CNC. The laser is very interesting too. I am now playing with a diode laser on the cnc machine.

[@donnersm]

Would love to see video on Some more detail regarding the calibration. How does the controller now how many steps are in milimeter etcetera

[@marcus_w0]

Twist two stepper wires and turn the stepper - if it's locked, it's a pair. if not, not. Also you could alter the direction by switching the two pairs on the plug.

[@FurtherFabrication]

That's a great little tip!

[@mordiaky]

For the limit switches, we need m3-18 at least for these, the guide list did not include this. Also missing the self-locking nuts for the rails for the m3, only came with m5 size.... lol

[@muserbellamy1140]

Hi great build I am just starting electronics it wouldn’t be a bad idea to use crimp connectors on all wire instead of putting bare wires in terminals what do you think thankyou

[@el737rs]

way to silence the beeps is just like with any other Chinese toy - band aid over the speaker ;) Great video, great series :)

[@mwebb-01]

I'm wondering if a BL Touch would work to automatically adjust the bed for the focal point? Also on the Y400 build im starting does it have a Pass thru option on that machine? I went through the build and it didnt appear to me that it did. Thanks

[@isaaclikins5383]

If you just want to make the beep quieter then you can put masking tape on the speaker. That way you can still hear it, but it isn't as annoying.

[@FurtherFabrication]

Nice idea, I feels like a good compromise

[@iLEZ]

Oh lordy! I found this series today, just as the wife was saying "how come we don't have a laser cutter yet?".

[@FurtherFabrication]

Welcome to the fun!

[@semperidem2577]

Maybe it's just me but looking at your setup @ 6.12 onwards, isn't the laser head on back to front? It looks like the beam from the 2nd mirror is going to hit the wrong side of the head?

[@skidz8426]

you could take apart the controller and remove the speaker for the beeping. I had bought this 2 pack of smoke detectors about 3 weeks after I installed them one started going off for no reason. I tried to push the button to silence it but no go. the batteries were built-in. I did the sensible thing took it outside and smashed it on the sidewalk. I chalked it up to defective then about 2 weeks later the 2nd one started doing the same thing so I took it out to its death. I went and made sure the new ones needed 9v batteries

[@SaintMFLow1]

2nd plea for assistance: i am currently on the electronics phase of my build but for some reason, can get the limit switches to work. is there a trick to installing or did i miss something? arent they usually just plug n play... or do I need to configure them in the controller [or in the software]. the chinese company that i purchased from cant even understand anything past "buy now"... so of course they are no help.at any rate.. any help would be great thanks!

[@Vickers010782]

Hello, when i connect steering panel to the mainboard and connect 24VDC without Motors or enything else can i check the menu and other functions on the display? I bought panel and mainboard and when i connect to 24VDC only reset switch is working, i cant enter to the menu. Is this correct? Cheers.

[@serdaraytemiz]

Just to be on the safe side I would seperate the controller and step driver power supplies. great video.

[@empireengineer1847]

So I am at the point in the build where I am moving the axis's with the controller. When the axis's go to the origin, the y axis will back off and re approach the limit switch, but the x axis does not. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a machine setting I am missing?

[@usmanansari9176]

Great work man. Cant wait for the next episode

[@richardrhoads9088]

With 3d printers there are what's called silent stepper motor drivers to eliminate the whining sound from the nema motors.. Is there such a thing for the lasers? Or are they already quite?

[@tecsolint]

Thanks for sharing.... I'm considering building one myself. I too will share with the tubers..

[@davidriley7659]

also, dont forget to attach those cables so they can't slip out of controllers and short. The power supply comes to mind as the main issue.

[@FurtherFabrication]

very true.

[@Dezanova]

Love this series ❤

[@JDFuchs]

First I gotta say i'm loving the detail your showing in this build series. Only watched one of your videos so far but learned a lot. I got to ask about your choice of Ruida controllers. I bought a laser with one and have been loving it so far. Still quite new to this laser. It is a great controller. My gripe is RDworks. I dislike it so much i've considered switching controllers. Yes there is support for them but its not the best. And it's not a fun program to work with. I've not tried light burn yet not being free but think I should soon. I haven't found other software yet to create the Ruida .rd files to through on a thumb drive and into the controller. I think my ideal would be to take sketches drawn in Fusion 360 and have that post a file I can take directly to the laser controller since it dose such for some controllers. At least for cut files. My last project took me almost 3hr to figure out how to take a good Fusion .dxf use a paint bucket to turn it into an image to raster. I kept having quality issues with a few different intermediate programs trying to find something that RDworks would import with good quality. I come from a background of CNC machining at large job shops. So i'm spoiled on good reliable software workflows. I'm really looking forward to your ventilation video. It's time to upgrade mine. Thanks for reading this if you've made it this far. Any comments form you or anyone would be much appreciated.

[@FurtherFabrication]

I feel your pain with having to jump through software hoops. I haven't worked with Lightburn either, though it sounds like it would solve a few headaches. My typical workflow in dealing with the chinese software, be it RDworks or LaserCAD, is to complete all my vector work with layers and line colors inside Fusion360 or other CAD program then export that out in either a .DXF or. .Ai to import in. Then all I need to do in the Laser Software is the power and speed.

[@JDFuchs]

@@FurtherFabrication Oh! I'm going to have to play with that. Didn't know you could do separate layers in Fusion like that or do .Ai files that RDworks would like. Thank you a ton!!

[@Soundman0011]

Chris did you get an answer to your question? Because this is different than the manual instructions Thanks

[@Seth-mb9nt]

RDWorks: Bringing the aesthetic and functionality of Windows 98 into 2019. Had to use that for a University Boss laser cutter. Never again.

[@FurtherFabrication]

Love it. haha

[@trixiwolf_gaming]

I'm new to the laser cutter scene, but I have a background in machining. This will be a bit of learning curve... is the RDWorks software the best option for this build? How well can you adopt new files from prospective clients and what type of files does this require? Is the file types different for engraving and cutting? Or are they the same format? Thank you!

[@charlesraimondo3761]

When I press the right arrow on my ruida controller, the laser head moves in the - y direction and vice versa. When I press on the up arrow the gentry moves in the -x direction. How do I fix this issue?

[@Weird_guy79]

parts list states 2 Power Supply, 24v 75W 3A 110v or 220v but the line also states Meanwell LRS-75 Switching Power Supply 12V 6A / 24V 3.2A 75W, so which do I need one of both or two 24v???

[@Weird_guy79]

and there a cheaper alternative for the 3 Cloudray Leadshine 2 Phase Stepper Driver DM542, they are like $60 AUD each???

[@sunilrathore953]

Hello sir, I have one question. Can we use dc servo motors instead of stepper motors. I heard that servo motors gives better quality engrave

[@stickeruae0078]

hy brother i have laser machine 100 waat can u help me when i turn on machine with watter coller the lcd of machine bilinking and also bilinking light of ruida contloer light no 15 with beep plz can u tell me what is problem

[@1990notch]

What's the reason you went with a steel bearing rail instead of just using v-slot and rollers for the X axis?

[@madiyaprasad9356]

Brother I am from india....I really love to make the project...which you have made.... Is all the parts will be available in our country...as importing from somewhere is no way...they way too costly.... I will let you know....when I will start this project... Please help me out..

[@RCjunkie]

what screen did you tell the ruida the table size is, mine is 1300 x 700

[@davidliddelow5704]

You can turn the beeps off with a soldering iron.

[@feldon27]

The RDC6445G is $240 more than the RDC6442G. It would be really beneficial if you can touch on the difference between these two in your next video. Thanks for this video series!!!

[@FurtherFabrication]

The price difference shouldn't be that big?! On AliExpress it's less than $20. The difference is the 6442G isn't the current model. the 6445G is, and has a better interface. Otherwise they're pretty similar. Hope that helps!

[@feldon27]

@@FurtherFabrication Oh ok I just looked and found the 6445G for around $250 USD on Ali with power supply. These videos are great!

[@shakiraxww]

What about those who prefer 80W or higher? Is it really worth having swaped axis? That sticking out part of the tube could be hit anytime, especially in the tiny rooms. I know it would be covered but still, annoying. And if I decide to place the laser tube behind the machine, will I still be able to fallow your design? Or its a game changer? Many thanks!

[@FurtherFabrication]

I wrestled with this situation as well! So here's my thought process into it; Because of the axis swapped configuration the extension for larger tubes will protrude from the rear of the machine. This means it will fill the deadspace created behind the machine where the extraction hose and water cooler will be running. Minimal opportunity to get knocked back there (unless you're crawling around behind the machine for some reason). However the design will still work wherever you want to place the tube, you would just extend out the x-axis. Hope that helps!

[@shakiraxww]

@@FurtherFabrication I've decided to fallow your build except for the laser tube position. Thank you!

[@PabloVivCo]

Hi amazing video, I want to ask if it would be easy or difficult to mod a laser co2 machine with this ruida board?

[@Stephen8454]

Totally dope, I'm sold. I have a brand name 40w right now and need to get a bigger one and most don't support the size I need. Will the calibration and all these steps your making be in the build guide? I will purchase it and the parts list right now if so.

[@a68riz]

Disconnect control panel speaker? To stop beeps?

[@bigoper]

I love the video! How about instructions on wiring the RD6445G to the Laser power supply? Thanks!

[@Rockhopper1]

Good effort, I learnt a lot on this one,

[@dwalden74]

Why 2 motors on the Y axis? One in the middle with axles going to both sides is usually the way it’s done.

[@BrandegeePierce]

I am also curious... I looked and the ruida doesn't support dual y axis end stops so if they get out of whack, it stays out of whack until you manually fix it.

[@nellen55]

is one 3.2 amp power supply really enough Don't the motors pull 2-3 amps each?

[@issambatti9836]

Hello, Does I loose some features of this RUIDA controller if I use Lightburn software ? Thanks

[@frankkucera7942]

Hey, can this laser cutter be run off of a standard american plug (110V)?

[@GENcELL2014]

Wire ferrules on stranded wire when using screw terminals.

[@corey312]

New issue, when I hit the manual direction control it will only go one direction? Can anyone help?? Please

[@modwannabeminecraft1246]

When all is said and done are you going to be adding some LED light strips that would be controlled by the controller? I have on my 3D printers custom LED strips that run off 5 volts. I didn't know if you would go this way or if you would use the 12 volts with a buck converter in line

[@FurtherFabrication]

Yeah getting some LEDs in there is probably a good idea. I'll probably try run them from the 24v power supply that's already in there.

[@masaratech]

Using a coreXY configurations would make it simple to build

[@MichaelEdmond]

Lightburn... Is awesome. Had it since release

[@amrmohamed3842]

Vgh

[@kenf2662]

ruida rdc-6332g or ruida rdc-6445g what would you pick

[@spikeydapikey1483]

Open controller, locate buzzer, cover with blutack, problem solved! This is what I did on my Ender 3, before I just desoldered the damn thing!!

[@TaureusGrey]

Have you had any issues with the parallel wired Y steppers? Do they fight at higher speeds?

[@davidriley7659]

put some electrical tape over the buzzer - muffles the sound. works for me.

[@robinanderson2099]

David Riley prestigious in the buzzer hole will work too

[@mariogayoso]

Could I use cohesion 3d mini with this build? I already have a super mod k40 I just want a bigger work area

[@ahmadalmersal5820]

Great What the aproblem when the controler tell you batteery law please change the batteery

[@ahmadalmersal5820]

Every weak

[@makerscave]

Where do you guys buy the aluminum profiles from? I do not see them in local hardware stores in TX USA and am bit scared to buy the long ones from China.

[@keithshaffer9608]

Zyltech.com and they are Texas based. Seeing that you asked a month ago, you probably don't need them anymore but wanted it out there for future builders.

[@CAgrampa1999]

Where can I buy the RDV6445G9(EC0) controller

[@lavernekrahenbil736]

Great series of build episodes you got here. You have given me the confidence to proceed with building one. What supplier are you using to source your Chinese Electronics from?

[@FurtherFabrication]

Good to hear! the electronics were from Cloudray

[@neilgillies6943]

TBH, you could have saved yourself some funds and eternal pain by ditching those awful internal aluminium 'meccano' angle brackets and use proper 'core screws' instead - you end up with a _much_ more rigid setup (albeit that you do need to think ahead when building :-). One further benefit is that you now have clear space to install panels _internally_ to the space frame and not have them stuck to the outside - which is really just 'naff' :-) One other point, use T-nuts that simply drop in to the slot and don't have to be installed beforehand - maybe a tad more expensive but much less painful :-) Otherwise, great vid, choosing _any_ chinese controller is also a great choice over the arduino option - the chinese software is just absolutely $hite, but the controllers are excellent - a real money saver eventually. Lightburn wasn't available when I did mine (back when we made them from regular extrusion and glued on rails and sheep were frightened :-)) - I had to use Parallels on my Mac then run LaserCAD - arghhhh - but it worked. Fortunately, I now own a nice amerikan "Universal laser", but the fun factor has gone :-)) Building another compact DC laser as a project is still high on the list :-)

[@FurtherFabrication]

Awesome, thanks for sharing your experience!

[@raequiposcnclaser989]

Hello dear, do you know how to change the mirror mode in the latest versions of rdworks?

[@clivegillham7910]

Really great build Videos. A great way of presenting. A question about you Z axis. Is it necessary to have the linear bearings for this axis? Do you find the 4 lead screws aren't enough?

[@FurtherFabrication]

Thanks. That's an excellent question. I added them in for my 'version 1' back in 2018 as a fail safe to stop any binding issues and help with general rigidity. I think larger diameter lead screws would probably have the same effect (which would be interesting to test). but you would end up with slightly more unusable space between the fame and the cutting bed.

[@Pan_Borsuk]

I've never found how to disable that annoying beeps. Cutting speaker off is my best bet.

[@FurtherFabrication]

Ugh I was hoping it wasn't that.

[@thesecretworkshoppropstore7914]

@@FurtherFabrication With your skills it won't be hard to add a manual switch if there is no option in the software ;)

[@jothain]

@@FurtherFabrication much more simpler is to just push something like match, toothpick whatever to the hole of piezo element. You'll still get beeps, but muffled something like 8x compared to original when done correctly. I'd bet there's generic piezo with about 2mm hole

[@MichaelEdmond]

Beeps are handy as the pads can and do wear out, so if you press and it does not beep any more... You know pad is no workey

[@FurtherFabrication]

That's a much better way of looking at it haha

[@MichaelEdmond]

@@FurtherFabrication yeah the panel does seem to wear quick, I put clear vinyl over mine which has helped it last longer

[@SAILxKamal]

Like before watching the video, very nice progress man, for the 8mm rail brackets ( 3d printed parts) it will be better to replace them with SK8 , as they will grip the rodes nicely and they are more rigid , but its still an amazing project , keep it up

[@FurtherFabrication]

Thanks dude. Good spotting, they were the closest thing I could find as well.

[@SAILxKamal]

@@FurtherFabrication this is cheaper solution , use those collars bellow the printed parts and tighten them , use them also on the other end of the lead screw to prevent it from getting out of it place. www.aliexpress.com/item/32761250387.html

[@TheBmpenn3]

great vids man! how much $$ do you have in this thing so far?

[@FurtherFabrication]

Thanks dude. I've got around US$1500 in it

[@billpeiman8973]

@@FurtherFabrication Including the laser?

[@abrahamzhong7669]

@@billpeiman8973 most likely yes - I'm not sure, but laser tubes are not too expensive (they can range from ~100-500 from what I've seen)

[@andreashabijan2514]

You should use wire end ferrules for the cables.

[@idankk]

That controller looks really slick. Is it a newer generation than what you typically see on Chinese lasers?

[@FurtherFabrication]

Yeah that's right, I believe it's the latest version.

[@hotfuzz1913]

Nice work

[@iconjohn82]

Oh my God.. finally ep4 is here... now we're talking..... well here we are again... another excruciating of waiting for the next round..... ZZZZZzzzzzzz wake me up dude if your ep5 is ready.

[@EspenShampoo25]

Do you think it would be posibble to make a cnc and co2 laser engraver? that would be awesome!

[@FurtherFabrication]

You technically could... but both machines would be compromised heavily to accommodate the other.

[@EspenShampoo25]

@@FurtherFabrication ok, so not a great idea then. I had to do alot of negotiating with my spouse to get permission to make the laser cutter (because of space) so i guess i have chosen not to have a cnc now xD

[@actorzone856]

Brilliant.

[@bobloblong]

Do you wire an emergency stop into this machine? Where in the circuit do you put it if so?

[@FurtherFabrication]

I didn't for the test, but certainly will when we do the final enclosure. I typically put them right after the mains socket - so it cuts power immediately to everything

[@macartneyb]

De solder the speaker/buzzer 5 min job.

[@DarrinSK]

do you use compressed air in your laser?

[@dwalden74]

How fast can you cut without loosing accuracy?

[@eoxhwosixhisjsdh5615]

Good 👍

[@00eefee00]

Thanks.

[@WhyTheFace_NZ]

Pretty sure the sound is required for saftey reasons.

[@gauravdeshmukh4058]

can we use this design to build a 4x8 foot co2 laser? why most of the 4x8 have there laser tube on the gantry itself??

[@FurtherFabrication]

I wouldn't recommend this style of design for one that big. The laser beam becomes weaker the further it travels from the end of the laser tube. So the laser tube is on the gantry to minimize that effect.

[@gauravdeshmukh4058]

@@FurtherFabrication can you plz. provide any link for tube on gantry build if you know any.

[@BrandegeePierce]

@@FurtherFabrication have you experienced this or is this just something that is known. I tried finding this information and had no luck on the internet.

[@vanesaslava5377]

a question what is the password vendor parameter ?