Sinclair Spectrum +2A (+2B) Garbage to Gem Part 2 (Case Repair, Stereo Mod, Recap)

[@GadgetUK164]

*Update* - Dave Curran suggested that the +2B was still marked +2A on the case. That makes perfect sense with regards to the stereo board instructions. It would appear that this is a +2B. There's enough space there above the phono connectors for a compact flash card too - that might be a future mod! Byte Delight (for stereo mod boards) - www.bytedelight.com/ The audio mod article I talked about - with input from MutantCaterPillarGames - zxnet.co.uk/spectrum/+3sound/

[@blackcountryme]

GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods I did hate my +2A I had new when I was 15, the incomparability with some games was infuriating.. especially fairlight.. but I loved my speccys, from 1984 I still have two but I can get a decent pic on my TV.. might try to find a CRT. How about a mod to load from a mobile fone cos the sound tends to be very quiet.?

[@GadgetUK164]

I did a mod to load from iPhone on my first +2 (grey) btw =D I ended up removing it because I tend to just use the DivIDE now to load from SD.

[@blackcountryme]

GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods I did buy a DivMMC future about ten days after this comment, Not bad at all... As I've got a toastrack and a +2 so I didn't want any jumpers to mess about with, in case I forget and blew something.. it's a godsend tbh.

[@baze3SC]

I think all +2Bs (made in China and marked as such on the underside) had the Z70833 Issue 1/2/4 PCB. However, there were also plenty of +2As (made in Taiwan) that had the Z70833 Issue 1/2 PCB. I personally own two such +2As and they appear to have the sound distortion issue fixed (for the most part). The distinction between +2A and +2B is rather unclear. Or, it could be that Amstrad simply used already made +2A cases which they happened to have in stock and only changed the case mold to +2B later.

[@emersonmarques1174]

Amazing restauration. Makes us realize there is always hope . the "2 lives left" sticker cracked me up :)

[@spidereyes6290]

This is a really good repair. You have not only found a neat way to repair the damage to the best you can, but also turned it into an opportunity to not alter other areas of the case for further mods. I like the thinking behind it :-)

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks, very much appreciated =D

[@osgrov]

That is really satisfying to see. That poor old Speccy is once again flexing its muscles, looking all shiny and proud to be alive again. Makes me all warm and fuzzy inside. I'm quite impressed with the picture quality too, I think I need one of those composite mods too. :)

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D At least it's not game over for this system =D

[@seansretroverse9082]

At 7:41, for welding some of the plastic screw posts, a little bit of acetone does very nicely -- it holds much better than super glue or epoxy, of course depending on the plastic. Test it in a small area to see if it melts the plastic, and if so, just let it wick into the gap, and it will hold very well. The trick is that acetone melts plastic back to a liquid state, and the acetone evaporates and the plastic solidifies again, leaving an original plastic connection. I have a video on my channel where I used it for repairing a broken screw post on a quickshot joystick. It worked a treat! :) You mileage may vary.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! A lot of people have suggested acetone - I will get some =D

[@tharkthax3960]

Very nice, I just fixed a +2b a few months back, just needed new ram, rebelting and recapping. And the PSU needed the same, new fuse and caps. Now works sweet. Really enjoyed your video🙂

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers - appreciated =D

[@davarosmith1334]

That's a great wee bit of work you have done to that poor speccey! Finishing what Amstrad should have done in the first place! I hope you enjoy your second wind Speccey.

[@jasejj]

Wow. I take back what I said on the earlier video. It was worth fixing and you really did a blinding job on it. Highly impressed.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D =D

[@FernandoelChachi]

Yes, the spaces could had been much better, but in any case I didn't expect it to finish looking so nice. Great job.

[@FirstWizardZorander]

Beautiful restoration! That's without a doubt the best composite signal I've seen coming from any Speccy!

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D A big part of why the composite looks great is the mod that JoulesPerCoulomb created to fix ghosting!

[@gregdunlap7538]

Was looking forward to seeing how you dealt with the missing plastic; looks pretty good!

[@DaveCurran]

I think I agree with the instructions, my understanding is the later version of the black +2 board, the odd shaped one without the space for the +3 parts is the 2B. The earlier revision used the same board as the +3 with some parts not fitted, but they quickly cost reduced it. The confusion may stem from most of those boards being installed in cases that were still marked +2A as they didn't update the mouldings until much later on.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks Dave! Now I think about it, that makes perfect sense!!! I did wonder at the time whether someone had swapped the board from a +2A into a +2B, but regards cost reduction, I had assumed it was the other way around, in that they used the +3 board for both models (hence cost reduction - one board not two). But I guess the cost reduction came in from the smaller +2B board (mine).

[@bennyalford]

Great job! One thing I would say though is that there's no need for a heat sink on the ASIC - these run cold anyway, and the extra weight will stress the legs of the chip which is hanging in free air. Apart from that, very informative and useful.

[@GadgetUK164]

I can live with it lol. They aren't that heavy you know! It does get warm, and it is irriplaceable, so why not...

[@stevesstuff1450]

That looks brilliant! Only just found this video (and the 1st episode)... What a transformation! That repair-job to the gaping hole in the back with the RCA connects fitted almost looks like it designed that way! :-) Fabulous stuff :-)

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks, very much appreciated =D It could have been better had I moved the audio RCA connectors further left. That area at the top I plan to fit a CF card interface to later.

[@DerMartexus]

Good to see it working again! :) But the plastic work on the backside looks pretty diy. ;)

[@GadgetUK164]

What did you expect lol - It was a DIY project! A picasso case?? :o)

[@DerMartexus]

You are right and I didn't expect anything else. ;) Sometimes things look better, sometimes not. :D Still a good job.

[@StRoRo]

Turned out well. You sound cuffed about it. Good work.

[@Four_X]

Nice one Chris. Knew you'd get it looking respectable in the end.

[@refractionpcsx2]

Good job mate, that looks really good!! I agree you probably should have spaced those RCA connectors over a bit further from the 3.5mm jack. But aside from that, looks 1000x better

[@GadgetUK164]

Yeah, there's room for other things there yet I guess. I will fit the stereo mode switch to the right, and maybe something to the left. I was talking to JaysVintageJunk recently and he's creating some DivIDE boards - I might have a go a building one of those and putting the CF slot above the RCA connectors there.

[@refractionpcsx2]

Now that would be interesting to see :) this spectrum is going to kick ass by the time you've mmm finished lol

[@fatabelly]

Great job fella! But always remember the golden rule regarding mistakes or damage. “If you can’t hide it, make a feature of it” 😉

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D Haha - yes, my thought here was to make a feature out of it =D

[@turbotezable]

awesome really glad you bought it back to life remember having one of these as a kid my very first computer

[@GadgetUK164]

=D

[@EXITMUSIC2011]

Great job, another ZX Spectrum saved :)

[@loganjorgensen]

I've often thought 3D printing might help with irregular chunks breaking off cases and getting lost. If somebody modeled the case in 3D then one could simply virtually cut out any relevant portion for printing. Still then matching the texture is a problem, that plastic you used was very close in color and texture. Very nice Composite addition, blends into the board well using the RF box, like it was always there. Often thought many 8-bit platforms missed out on a lot of stereo options probably because of cost matters, like mono-mix or true stereo effects that music had in the 80s. Looks really great. :)

[@GadgetUK164]

Yeah, 3d printing is a great idea! =D Thanks!

[@TinyTracey]

black epoxy putty us handy for black plastic cases,strong too,used it for a Gamecube mod.

[@Imperious685]

If Your TV has a VGA input then You can mod a Cable to directly connect the Speccy's RGB output into it. My Dell U2412 monitor for some reason accepts the low res 50hz signal. It looks a lot better than composite. Alternatively the GBS8200 works as well. Good Job on the refurbish.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! Might have a go with RGB to VGA =D

[@DanSullivan129]

That was awesome! I loved this restore video.... I wouldn't even know where to start on something like this lol well done mate :)

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@keithfulkerson]

Maybe you could take a mold of the edge that has the notches, and cast a new edge for that broken section.

[@GadgetUK164]

Great idea =D

[@46danz]

Superb job,bin material to treasure.

[@Jamesalec63]

Photograph it perhaps or if you have use of a 3d printer you could somehow scan an image of the damaged part then from another image of a undamaged device copy that area it would be simpler but tricky and the same time or another possibility is like your doing but use a raspberry cover that matches the Spectrum? Failing that how about finding another spectrum that doesn't work but the cover is good to go? Of course if you're luck you could find one of those upgrade covers where you could upgrade your old spectrum remember them I used one many years ago have completely forgotten about this till now brought in WH Smiths 37 years ago? Any port will do?

[@9ElevenGamer]

I did something similar to a cracked MEGADRIVE Lid with filler and sand paper, the stuff I used dried really hard, I then gave it 2 coats of paint, I am surprised it worked to be honest but it did, just a quicker option if you ever want to try it on a future project.

[@GadgetUK164]

=D That will do the job! I am useless at spray painting lol.

[@andrewlittleboy8532]

Fantastic job there Chris!

[@GadgetUK164]

Many thanks! =D

[@kcinplatinumgaming2598]

Done an awesome job on that Speccy!! just shows though people throw gems away and some don't respect what they own just a shame ... you may save 1 or 2 but 1000s are melted down

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D Yes, for every one saved hundreds go to landfill I'me sure =/

[@danielson9579]

I had a cpc 464 with yes that bloody green screen monitor when i was younger harrier jump jet game all the way back then but when amstrad bought out sincler and even used there own chips in sinclar machines why where the gfx and colour clash still so bad ?

[@jasejj]

Daniel Son Compatibility, and also Alan Sugar wanted to market the Spectrum as the cheap version of the Amstrad. To make the Spectrums graphics better would have required more expense, something like the Sam Coupe, and that would have turned the machine into a competitor, rather Han a partner product to the Amstrad.

[@danielson9579]

Jason james Ahh I see quite a clever move thanx for clearing that up for me ☺

[@GadgetUK164]

I always wondered why they didn't merge the designs into one super computer that could run CPC, Spectrum, but also had some additional power too. Since they both used Z80s, both used the YM sound chip, it could have been done imo. It would have been a case of 2 ULAs on there, perhaps merged into one gate array, with some clever way to switch between modes, but in theory it could have been possible.

[@danielson9579]

GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods It wouldent have lasted as we all know good ideas are set aside for profit 😔

[@tootyuk]

Great restoration chris, couldn't you cut a slither of that same plastic and fix it along the top edge to fill the gap and sit just above the RCA points (looks to be a straight line)

[@GadgetUK164]

That's a good idea!!! =D

[@g1fsh]

Cracking work really nice job. It does look 100% better

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@runetech]

For the red. There is probably some nail polish colours that comes close enough. Just a thought...

[@wilmerrose]

Maybe the white cat that walks past @26:30 might have some ideas 🐱🐱🐱

[@StephenBlower]

Hi, Did you find the right Red to paint/mark the Sinclair and 128k Logos on that +2? I'm looking to do the something similar and I've rather not reinvent the wheel if you've already found a solution. Great series of videos, I've learnt tonnes. But as many others have probably commented, why are you doing this stuff on the floor, carpet, rather than a table? Not a criticism, just an observation.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! Yes, I mixed a red acryllic pain with a bit of brown I think, and added the smallest bit of white and mixed it until it was just the right colour. Regards the carpet - yes, it's not the ideal place to work from on electronics (static damage risk) but it's just a large work space and reminds me of when I was a 19 year old working from my bedroom carpet lol =D

[@StephenBlower]

@@GadgetUK164 Thanks, I've got Acrylic Paint Pens and Paint for other stuff, I'll have a go at mixing with that combo.

[@HuntersMoon78]

Awesome work bringing my favourite computer back to life. I have order a +2 that I am going to mod with an internal power supply and power connector on the rear - Just hope I don't f*ck it up!

[@JohnGotts]

I love these exotic English computers. Might have to import one some day.

[@DoctorMikeReddy]

British. British computers…

[@Plan-C]

Really good job. Pleasure to watch.

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers mate =D

[@trendyfunandgames4759]

What camera do u use for filming also is it a head-cam

[@GadgetUK164]

I use a Samsung HD Camera - NC10 I think. I can do 1080p but I stick to 720p to assist with encoding time etc when editing.

[@missionpassed4584]

What solder do you recomend i have a few but neither the same as each other

[@GadgetUK164]

I just use 60/40 leaded solder.

[@missionpassed4584]

Yea that helps thanks

[@PunkNDisorderlyGamer]

I’m super frustrated I can’t seem to get my spectrum 128k +2a to load the tapes. I get a dialup sound from the tv and I get solid red and cyan borders and every few seconds I get red and cyan horizontal lines, *but no yellow blue horizontal lines*. I cleaned the heads and made sure the alignment is right and re heated the solder joints in the tape deck. The belt seems to run well the tape rewinds and fast forwards correctly. I hate this the ZX spectrum what an inferior poorly designed piece of trash.

[@GadgetUK164]

It probably has a slipping idler wheel or the pinch roller needs cleaning and then roughing up. See the Amstrad CPC tape loading repair video I did - the techniques are the same for the +2.

[@PunkNDisorderlyGamer]

GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods thanks for the reply I’ll check it out next week when I’m free.

[@spazkong]

26:26 the cat just walks into shot

[@demoscenes]

What an excellent video! Thanks for making this.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@TheHighlander71]

It's pretty bloomin good Chris. I'd paymmoney for it.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks Wouter =D

[@TheHighlander71]

Chris, I'm trying to remove a pesky PLA off a C64 board. Tinned it up, went to work with the solder sucker, tried to straighten all the pins but it won't move. I'll go over it a few more times. Do you have any wise tips?

[@GadgetUK164]

What iron are you using - its a fixed temperature, or can you increase the temperature slightly? It should just be a question of adding some solder and flux, let the heat travel through to the other side for 2 or 3 seconds, then try the desolder pump again. The other thing that can help is to clean the desolder pump out, spray some WD40 or similar into the desolder pump - it may then provide more suction. The final thing is - if the solder comes off OK on the underside, but not on the top side, then add some flux on the top side connections, and use desolder braid on the top side of the board to try and suck up the solder away from the pins. Patience is the key, and not too much heat either.

[@GadgetUK164]

And the quality of flux is important. Perhaps buy 1 tube of the Chipqwik flux I use if the one you are using doesnt suck up solder into the braid super fast.

[@TheHighlander71]

I've got a weller with a temp setting. I've got it on quite a low setting. Used my phone to get a better look. Cleaned out my solder pump half-way through and from then on the holes appear clearer. I'll try the WD40 trick. I did have some muck in the pump. And I'll keep going over it until it's clean. Thanks Chris.

[@9ElevenGamer]

24:10, how come it says Amstrad?

[@GadgetUK164]

Amstrad bought Sinclair, then produced the +2 and +3. =D

[@9ElevenGamer]

I never knew that, wonder why Sugar kept Clive's name on it, bizarre.

[@blackcountryme]

9ElevenGamer Amstrad had there own line of computers, the Sinclair was the best selling in the British market at that time (I think) the Sinclair name meant something.

[@9ElevenGamer]

Makes sense I suppose, that and the AMSTRAD machines never really did that well compared with ATARI, SINCLAIR and COMMODORE.

[@bitdigital8052]

Skillz, it looks awesome man! Good info.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@larsenmats]

Great work. Thanks for the video

[@frankowalker4662]

I don't think it was involved in an 'accident'. Susspicious circumstances, me thinks. Love the sticker you placed on the bottom :)

[@GadgetUK164]

What do you mean by Suspicious Circumstances? I think it was taken out of a skip at the rubbish tip - bought from eBay.

[@frankowalker4662]

@@GadgetUK164 I think someone tried to repair it, got frustrated and beat it up. Then threw it in a skip.

[@josephnealeUKscratchcards]

Nice video as always

[@GlensRetroShow]

Very nice!

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@revengenerd1]

I remember as a kid when the tape deck died my dad put a headphone output on the back, considering this was around 1991 how he did it without the internet confuses me!

[@GadgetUK164]

Depending on the model - I think some have a cassette input? You didn't have a +3 by chance?

[@revengenerd1]

+2A but the darker not the grey model all I know is he put a jack on the back of the unit and we just used a normal cable in some ways it worked better as connected to a normal hifi meant you could use the equaliser if a game failed to loadl Sadly it died many years ago but still at parents, even when I had it it would fail the ram checks but still work no problem for all games, last I checked I just got the multicoloured bands on screen rather than the boot room.

[@trendyfunandgames4759]

@@revengenerd1 that's cool it was a bit of mystery till the last few years I think I've done a few black +2a audio in mods for friends I did it by making the audio out port into an audio in port regards Richard www.9thbit.tk

[@SparksNZeros]

if you need to do any similar paint restoration i've always liked using Valejo Liquid Gold/Silver series it's intended for furniture and fine art restoration, it's much smoother and less likely to gloop, it also thins with alcohol so you can get a really smooth finish :D

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks! Excellent suggestion =D

[@tbddevelops]

Instead of having to mess around with a fiddly brush, could you mask the characters and then just pain them in one go? Might not work out as a time saving, but might make a consistent final look. I envy your patience on these projects.

[@GadgetUK164]

Yes, that's certainly an idea if you want to repaint the complete logo etc.

[@baze3SC]

Maybe even some flat porous surface could be used to "stamp" the colour on top of the embossed letters.

[@fortnitegod2647]

Great job Chris nice sounds too and great silver paint job too .........Kim 😋😋😋😋😋😋

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@witnesszer0]

a sacrificial soldering iron for plastics get some copper wire melt it into the plastic ive fixed a 3 blade fan like this one blade completely broke off been working for years now

[@TheSliderW]

Neat restoration!

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D

[@coyote_den]

Just have to chuckle at the random ginger tail occasionally in frame.

[@GadgetUK164]

:o) Mobile static generators!!!

[@Voultar]

I want one of those!

[@danielson9579]

Btw i allso have that ocd thing going on when it comes to repairs its the checking the fuses and wiring in the plug that made me click and feel like i wasent the only one in the world that did that lol ☺

[@GadgetUK164]

Hehe, yes - always a good idea! Might save your life etc.

[@leonardochiruzzi7642]

Extreme makeover computer edition!! ;-)

[@blackcountryme]

One thing I didn't know about the +2A/B (it didn't work on my +2 grey) reset the machine, hold break for the tone and colour check, then hold q,a,z and p,l,m. It does a memory check. Found it out here : kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnvZhZaNe6eogdE

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D I had long since forgotten about that!!!

[@paulb4uk]

Looks great

[@GadgetUK164]

=D

[@wskinnyodden]

Same model I still own. In fact my first computer. :)

[@wskinnyodden]

My neighbour actually got a +3 thing is floppy disks for that were like unobtanium even back then in Portugal. The few he had we had to work out how to copy the tape games to floppies. Another interesting oddity is that those floppies had to be flipped around to access the second side of the floppy (like old vinyl or tapes) as the FDD only has one head hehe.

[@rtesimpson]

Nice job!

[@GadgetUK164]

Cheers =D

[@pamparitas]

nice job

[@danielson9579]

Oh and btw screw what ppl say when ur nails are a certain length they make good splurgers 🙂

[@GadgetUK164]

Hehe :o)

[@Solder-Flowz]

Supa as always! ;)

[@xflossx]

ok its 2020 and im going to sound like a twat i dont mean to but i thought ill watch some boring vids to get to sleep as i work nights but i watched the first part and actualy learned something as ive just bought a a black plus 2a a few months ago and i want upgrade the signal also i bought 2 firefox f7s and scramble which needs new capacitors as for two firefox f7s i was bidding on two and won both one looks and works mint the other needs some capacitors as well so now im looking for a soldering iron and capacitors online when i should have gone to bed an hour ago thanks alot but great vid by the way the only thing i would have done extra is put anouther piece of that plastic on top of the repair to even it of but id probably mess it up LOL but thanks for the info

[@joerhorton]

2b or not 2b, that is the question.

[@GadgetUK164]

Hehe, yes - apparently its a 2B, despite the 2A marking on the case...

[@bamdadkhan]

'2 lives left?'

[@GadgetUK164]

Yeah, most games - you get 3 lives!

[@osgeld]

sci grip, cheap and welds plastic

[@philrod1]

I've seen Fran (from Fran's Lab) using what I think she called a spin welder for joining plastics like this.

[@osgeld]

yea spin welding works well, but for 10 bucks or so I keep a can of cement and paint both parts, which softens them, then mush them back together. It will start holding in a few seconds and a few min you have to pry it apart, a day later its totally welded back together as one chunk of plastic VS welding just the outside crack with heat

[@osgeld]

also would not need those screws to hold the patch panel in place :)

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks, will check that out =D