Gaffer & Gear 252 -Dimming Lights Without Using Dimmers

Back to Basics Episode
Getting smooth fade ups and fade downs when lights don't dim well

[@PeaLoop]

I get a little bit smarter every time I watch your channel. Awesome stuff. 💡

[@BryceMiguelWilliams]

I feel the same way!

[@arnaudd.4016]

We want more that kind of videos!!! Thanks a lot for sharing your experience

[@ciceronebezerra]

Not every country/city will have developed markets with acess to quality information, this channel does a wonderfull work with sharing knowledge.

[@lighthackerslimited]

30+ yrs in the game.. and still we learn!! Thank you Andrew for this one especially.. I had to do cue'd fades in a Shakespeare production for the BBC.. yes we used the DMX... BUT your explanation for creative uses in the reveal ..THAT was something I hadn't thought of!!

[@viewindertv]

Maybe my fave episode yet. More workshops like this, please!

[@TimoSund]

Oh very old school ideas that do still work. Thanks for pushing my cart down the memory lane. If I only had such creative projects I could adopt these.

[@gaffergear]

I know that feeling exactly.

[@thegoldenmean01]

:"You don't pay me for what I can do, you pay me for what I can do on a moments notice"-Pulled this from the DARK AGES....TIMELESS! 60%, Plus I guess were schooled and thats a good thing. Great tips and share!

[@meetthegaffer]

The bounce dim… love it!

[@openheadslt]

Andrew, thanks for reminding basics and giving a very valuable creative tips. God bless you ;)

[@Ultiyplayer]

Absolutely love these back to basics episodes! Thank you!

[@lachlanstamp4203]

Absolutely brilliant mate. Love the bounce idea!

[@natecarrollfilms]

Wisdom worth gold.

[@karmapolice3335]

SIR please i love this back to basics make more videos on back to basics make a series you are the best

[@AlFooteIII]

That was a great video! Please do more of these.

[@leoquesto9183]

The copious, excellent methods of Andrew Lock, who is generous enough to share them!

[@jimstylin]

Thank you.

[@ThisIsAGreatBassist]

Awesome, some great tips!

[@brtfilms]

I have a shoot on Friday where similar ideas were floated by the director and DP. Right on time!

[@alanpowell24]

Very interesting / informative……

[@Trevellian]

Great tips, thanks.

[@BenBowmanNYC]

Best one yet.

[@triceramovieboy]

Awesome video!:D

[@buddyfx7026]

badass, thank you!

[@12yfilms]

I feel like Andrew could kick Thanos' ass with his grip van. And I'm talking about a fully loaded 6 Infinity Stone Thanos.

[@sammorganmoore]

I had young Joe do this for me on our last feature as sidus/apture f21 could not do a nice dim. works great.

[@kevynspeed]

This is V A L U E !!!

[@nicks3011]

Super helpful as always, thank you! Do you have any plans to review the Nanlite FC500 B? I imagine it's well below fulltime G&E quality, but the pricepoint caught my eye for high output indoor use...

[@igorrutsch]

or a next episode of back to basics with the theme: get high output with low power lights ;)

[@nshea3286]

I wonder if you could use a hard grid to do the fade, while keeping the lit area about the same. Use - say a 45 degree grid - and tilt it up or down in front of the light source, ...gradually cutting off the light as the angle increases relative to the source.

[@gaffergear]

That makes sense in my mind

[@leotownsend]

Wicked

[@user-zv7lm8uk7h]

Wow.

[@jeromelightbody5155]

Im blow away!! 😮

[@farcushenderson]

I want those litemats please

[@prasannp7]

Could you explain the "double break" method a little more? Is the idea that the 4x4 diffusion frame will provide enough bounce return to keep the hard shadows from developing?

[@gaffergear]

The front 4x4 is the light source closest to the subject, so the idea is that one is being illuminated from the unit behind that is being cut. So it will stay closer to its full 4x4 shape. Not perfectly but enough to help keep the size of the light closer to the same

[@sethholston6128]

Hollywood

[@alacazaba]

Moving anything across the light is a problem, it changes the quality of light. Best solution to a non dimming light was a shutter like system. Mole shutters were a go to on dimming HMI's for a good while (just don't melt them, leave them open between takes or pan head away, don't place too close to head, and be ready to mitigate bleed between shutter louvres). With cooler lights and bigger sources, a pair of cutters could be used instead. As close to the head as would be feasible on stands, overlapping just enough when closed, so that one man could operate them. Beam would be affected because it essentially was narrowed but less so than a single flag. You can get around this better by having multiple cuts and a few gag operators instead of a pair of cutters. A better solution if you don't have the shutters and you have time to build it, a set of blk/blk foamcore cut with overlapping patterns which you can slide up/down/left/right (whatever works) to block out the light for a dimming effect. Good idea to have a bit of silicon spray handy in case moving parts squeak.

[@robertdouble559]

The solution Andrew mentions at 6:30 minimizes the issues you're describing. Cutting the light before it hits a bounce keeps the apparent source size pretty constant though the fade.

[@thehomedepothouseplant9986]

Very cool!