Gamecube Controller Cord Mod!!

HOW TO PARACORD GAMECUBE CONTROLLER CABLES!
For time saving I left out that you have to open the controller up and take the board out first, but you are smart, I believe in you!
This mod works best with 550 style cord, here is where you can find any and all styles imaginable!
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Low cost Heat gun I used in the vid:
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Hot Air station I use now:
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Desk Vice/Clamp:
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Heat Shrink Tubing:
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Pliers:
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All other tools I reccomend!
Flush Cutters:
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Foam Tape:
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Dremel Tool:
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Great File Set
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Great Beginners Soldering Kit (Has everything you need, its what I used when I started)
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Better Soldering Iron (What I use now)
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Flux Soldering paste (Trust me you need this)
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Kapton Tape
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Good Solder
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Good Solder Pump (For removing solder)
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THE BEST SCREWDRIVER SET FOR THE MONEY
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Digital Caliper (Great for measuring Wire)
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Hot Glue Gun I use
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Wire Stripper
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(These are affiliate links to items that I personally use and buying from them is a great way to support me at no extra cost to you!)
Also if you are interested in utilizing the Pins and Copper shielding, RockerGaming has a great video on that method:
• Gamecube Controller Mo...
Support me with these affiliate links and shopping at your favorite parts stores!
USE CODE JAYBOYMODZ
10% OFF at Handheld Legend handheldlegend.com/jayboymodz
10% OFF at RetroGameRepairShop retrogamerepairshop.com/disco...
#gamecubemod #Supersmashbros #gamecube

[@akhgarage]

this is by far the best paracording tutorial ever done. Thank you

[@JayBoyModz]

🙏🙏🙏

[@esotericsean]

Nicely done! Haven’t gotten into any controller modding, but definitely someday. Great editing and easy to follow here. Much appreciated!

[@JayBoyModz]

Thanks Sean I appreciate that🙏🏽 and you should it’s a lot of fun and especially since you are getting into casting! There’s so much to do 💯

[@pathfinderquinn4902]

I followed this guide and was able to do it on the first attempt, so thank you. Now I do want to note that the wire stripper he recommended weren't able to strip the wires on this specific controller I worked on. Will see if this continues being a issue in the future BUT I did find a solution. All you have to do is hit the ends with a lighter and it will either melt the rubber away or will melt enough for you to pull it off. Also if you "burn" the copper it is fine but to give you a peace of mind just cut the burnt piece off. Hopefully this comes in handy for someone who see's this.

[@marckenjimarutani7623]

I too bought the linked wire strippers that are too big lol. Couldn't figure out how to do the lighter trick, just burnt the wire to a charcoally crisp

[@supertoadmods]

I will definitely be using this method for my controllers! This is way simpler than any other method I've seen.

[@JayBoyModz]

Awesome :D

[@R0salance]

Best video I’ve seen so far on this method! Great work man!

[@JimmyLZH]

This is the easiest method by far. Great video!

[@JayBoyModz]

THANKS! 👍

[@ScruffyLookinRGB]

Great tutorial! Ive done this with out cutting the pins and man did it take forever and by the end of it my fingers were hurtin. What is the diameter of the paracord you like to use? Also do you ever just sleeve over the original cord without cutting off the black plastic?

[@JayBoyModz]

Scruffy Lookin RGB Thanks! I use 550 cord which works best. And I have heard of people using 750 cord I believe to sleeve over the original cord but it ends up looking pretty bulky. I’ve never tried it myself though

[@ScruffyLookinRGB]

@@JayBoyModz Yea my first attempt I made that mistake. Too bulky to fit the paracorded cable back in its controller shell.

[@kakuzu12345]

I stumbled across this video on a custom GCC post, and I have a few issues. Firstly is cutting off the molex connector. It's incredible easy to just back the pins out of the connector with a dental pick. And removing the shielding can potentially add losses and interference to your inputs. And if you're taking the time to try and add functionality to your peripherals, that seems like a net negative. Source: Electronic engineer who operates on PCBs daily.

[@DokuFREENET]

is it possible, to desolder the plug that goes in to the c8ntroler port? i need to replace my cable, bc the rubber is broken at 2 spots, so i can see the coper shielding.

[@JayBoyModz]

You can but I think it would be easier just to replace the entire cord

[@frankiebloodshed2ndchannel]

Does anyone sell the cords already set up? I don't mind soldering it onto the motherboard, it's just the sleeving that seems like a hassle

[@bigflx2754]

Anyway of doing this without removing the wire from the board?

[@TheVaultOfLeague]

Sick tee bro!

[@JayBoyModz]

Juba Noakes Thanks Homie!

[@matthew5775]

Sick vid. Thanks bro

[@princessive1674]

Just wanted to say that I tried this. Spent many hours trying to sleeve it in but I eventually gave up and took out the copper shielding. It seems to work still but what are the chances of possible interference if any? By the way, great guide. Helped me through this mess for me. I had to cut the wires shorter to fit with the paracord (I cut the paracord too short on accident but not by any great extent)

[@JayBoyModz]

I hear this concern about interference quite frequently and it is a realistic concern to have, that is why the copper is there. That being said, out of the hundreds of controllers I have used this method for, I have never once had any issues regarding interference.

[@frjhracing]

It'll depend on the area and the grid power you have. City apartments and congested areas tend to have "noisy" power caused by many different appliances running. Some computer components can backfeed interference into the power throughout the house. Pretty much, the shielding is there for worst case and all conditions. Also, because it's a huge antenna now, it can depend on local radio stations, your phone, etc. So really it's a huge *it depends*. If you have your own place with known appliances running and known radio/ cellular devices around - you can get an idea of how much it'll affect you. I also wouldn't recommend shieldless on modded controllers with dedicated microcontrollers (like phob or goomwave)... But for OEM, shieldless should be ok.

[@Gianluca_YouTube]

i need you to ask something. I bought the same Wire Stripper as you but every time i try to expose the green or blue wire i cut off part of the wire itself. Idk why this keeps happening. Sorry for my bad english btw.

[@vakira7810]

Do you know what the 6 different colored cables do specifically? I just got done soldering everything back together but feel like I did a poor job at it, also the controller has bad drift but wasnt sure if that is caused by the wires

[@vakira7810]

Update: i tried plugging it in again like an hour after this comment and drift is gone. I will reset my stick box potentiometers just in case, although I am still curious about the wires.

[@hibernate44]

@@vakira7810 Red - main Controller functions - Black/Green/White ground Blue and Yellow power for Rumble Only Red and Green(1 ground cable so also black) are necessary for controller to function

[@puchomagic1872]

Good info... nice video 🤙

[@JayBoyModz]

Thanks Pucho! I know you saw I finally got that Wario controller together ;) Will be posting about that soon too!

[@Monikfrun]

Why not try tieing one of the inner paracord strings to the controller cord? You could lap it over the cord and electrical tape the string to the cord and pull the cord through as you pull the last string out.

[@Milr._jpg]

Hi, does this way let me paracord without taking the cord from out of the motherboard?

[@Broseidon132]

I have a question, I took out the rubber tubing and the copper shielding, but it looks like the black wire isn’t connected in the system side plug. Is this normal? I just finished paracording my controller and the controller is not working. I’ll re-test my soldering job in the mean time

[@Broseidon132]

Never mind, soldering skills were not on point.

[@JayBoyModz]

@@Broseidon132 Yes that is normal 👍

[@okamisan1231]

Got a question, so I just started doing this and I kinda somewhat, but not really burned the solder area, my controller should still function right? And also, would the pins be unnecessary at all at this point? I'm about to proceed but I want to make sure that I won't need the pins at all

[@JayBoyModz]

You shouldn’t need the pins as long as you solder the wires in correctly

[@matthew5775]

What is that glue stuff you are putting on the wires before you tin them? Do you need that for this to work?

[@JayBoyModz]

That is called flux and it just helps the solder stick better. I have a link in the description for it

[@Joe-zn5je]

they also sell pins for the board

[@ausmo1308]

does the tip of the solder pump melt or wear out? what do you recommend in those scenarios?

[@JayBoyModz]

Yes it will but you can buy replacement tips

[@Diskdrive000]

So I did this with 2 controllers and they worked fine at first but now everytime I plug them in they dont work at all no inputs are recognized on both of them...any word of advice?

[@JayBoyModz]

M Miraglia check you’re solder points, you could have a broken wire

[@jonnyordaz]

Is cause you removed the copper protection.

[@mr.modify3958]

@@jonnyordaz thats what I'm thinking

[@wyrmbuster]

How durable is this method? Like how many times can you wrap the wire before it breaks if it at all?

[@JayBoyModz]

wyrmbuster Very durable I’ve never had any issues. Never had a wire break

[@Nick-tu6nk]

where can i just buy one already done ???

[@Aztekong]

How long does it take to do the paracording sleeving approximately?

[@JayBoyModz]

Diego Vazquez Soto about 10-15 mins usually

[@josueguevara3386]

Does it really need the copper wire shielding because some people sleeve over it?

[@JayBoyModz]

Its not a bad idea to leave it on if you can. I however have always taken it off and have never had any issues

[@josueguevara3386]

Ok thanks, just wanted to make sure because I'm going to paracord my gamecube controller soon

[@BUGJUN3]

Does anyone know what the copper wire is for is it important?

[@JayBoyModz]

BUGJUN3 it is the to protect from interference and also prevent things like shorting Generally it is good practice to leave it on But for the sake of the video I show how to remove it I’ve never had a single issue with the wires not having the shielding

[@savvyray9367]

i bought replacement cables but they only have 5 wires not 6 basically missing the blue. help?

[@JayBoyModz]

Savvy Ray that’s really weird yeah there definitely should be a blue wire

[@Furnade]

In my case, the black one is missing... Help! Dx

[@buffbear7890]

taking the copper shielding off can lead to input degradation in some of the newer and longer cords

[@JayBoyModz]

Ive been told this but it has never been an issue for me anytime ive used this method

[@SleepyLily_VA]

hey uhh why do u need to cut the pins off, you can use a pick to take em out of the terminal and put them back in, just write down the order of the wire before you take em out and you can not have to cut wire, tin, and do all that wizardry

[@JayBoyModz]

Very true! And that is a better method I would agree. This tutorial is showing the easiest method for beginners and people who don’t mod frequently to do it themselves 👍🏽.

[@SleepyLily_VA]

@@JayBoyModz ahh i gotcha, ty for the answer, just seemed odd to me and alot of more complicated steps with the risks of knicking the copper.

[@megakidz13]

I tried soldering back the wires to the board and now my controller won't work any advice bro when I plug it in it shuts off my adapter

[@JayBoyModz]

Check for bridged solder points

[@megakidz13]

@@JayBoyModz ya so I accidentally burned the board so I ruined my controller. I tried sk hard but wiring mods aren't for me

[@GERG1986]

What is the purpose of paracording?

[@JayBoyModz]

For SwAg

[@myguygrizz4447]

Can you show off your controllers

[@deshelly_athetos]

can you do a jewel gamecube mod? ty dude! also awesome video!!

[@JayBoyModz]

DeShelly Hey Thanks! I don’t but my homie RockerGaming on Etsy does that look him up 👍🏽

[@dylanvirrey96]

Do anyone know the tracks from this video? 🤔🎶🎵

[@brandonnleyva100]

Can't like this based on the fact that you removed all of the copper insulation. RIP if you're trying to use a gcn made by him in a university setting with tons of wifi signals jamming the wires with cross talk. Not optimal for phobs

[@serchapi3061]

Kind of a dumb question, but can you use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun?

[@JayBoyModz]

SerChapi Yes you can! That’s how I did it my first couple times

[@serchapi3061]

Ok, thanks!

[@skellyxj1]

How do you troubleshoot when your controller doesn't work now?

[@JayBoyModz]

I would start by checking where the pins are soldered in first

[@skellyxj1]

@@JayBoyModz desolder, cut, strip, and resolder? Or should I grab some sort of meter to test the wires?

[@JayBoyModz]

skellyxj1 I would test the continuity of the wires with a multimeter first

[@Meyuume]

So .... not a fan of the cutting the pins off and also taking off the copper Shielding

[@JayBoyModz]

Meyuume Great!

[@Nate.mp4]

I also find the pins at the end to be really annoying to deal with. My question is, why did you desolder them from the board if you were just going to cut them in the end? Couldn't you have left the pins soldered to the board and just cut the wire an inch or so up?

[@HustlinTurtle]

I mean, you'd still have the original pins soldered to the motherboard. You'd have to remove them in order to solder your paracorded cable in

[@hasserecht3678]

That's a nice Tutorial but man all that slicing of heatshrink ... i can literally see the cuts in the insulation of the single strands. You have to do.that carefully, whoever attempts this.

[@madnesshero4675]

I like the paracord idea but watching u desolder the cord from the controller board made me cringe when u yanked it out. Thats a very good way to destroy solder pads and break the incredibly thin copper inside the wire insulation. Both of which will ruin the controller. If anyone attempts this please dont yank the desoldered wires free like this. Apply heat to each solder point with your iron and CAREFULLY remove the wires one at a time.

[@isaaceyfish]

Because of the plastic housing that holds the pins, removing any one of the pins individually is virtually impossible. You need to remove all 6 pins within the plastic housing at the same time, therefore the removal relies on pulling out the plastic housing. The way that he did it wasn’t great, but there really isn’t a ton of other ways to remove it other than to yank it out. My personal method is to put a lot of excess solder to the point where it’s bridging all 6 contacts (which doesn’t affect the controller since it has no power source when unplugged) and move my iron back and forth across the 6 pins while wiggling the plastic housing to get it out of the board, then I remove the excess solder with a sucker.

[@ricepickrsanlee14]

i'm a pro at this jsyk

[@couscouskingpin7978]

Nice tutorial but your shaky hands stress me out.

[@JayBoyModz]

CouscousKingpin Thanks yo! Haha yeah I was born this way

[@R3TR0R4V3]

Why do _all_ you guys totally strip off the rubber jacket? I just don't get it.. You're creating a lot of unnecessary work for yourselves. 🤦‍♂️ Just put the paracord over the existing cable/rubber jacket. Done deal. 🤷‍♂️

[@JayBoyModz]

You give that a shot and report back

[@R3TR0R4V3]

Will do. 👍 FTR, I'm not knocking your work.. Overall, you did a fantastic job and the controllers look dope! My only criticism was the jacket removal, but I get it I suppose.. It's a tight squeeze, being only 4mm, roughly. I ordered some though, so we'll see what happens. 😬 Cheers! 🍻

[@JayBoyModz]

@@R3TR0R4V3 Yeah give it a shot, I am not sure that there is cording that will fit the entire cord very well.

[@R3TR0R4V3]

@@JayBoyModz I used regular 550 paracord and was able to pull it off, but it wasn't easy.. Now I see why you guys cut the rubber jacketing off. 😅