Gaozhen Practice

Practice at the gaozhen (藁砧, close range target bale) is fundamental to Gao Ying's Ming military archery training regimen. This video provides an overview.

[@nikandaz]

Justin, There is an advantage in using unfletched arrows in this kind of practice. The feathers do not have enough time or distance to correct the arrow flight. You are really looking for unaffected arrow position in the target so fletching would reduce your perception of any mistakes you are making. You save wear and tear on your regular target arrows. You can even use more robust arrow material for your practice arrows so that the high stresses of hitting a target that is so close and the vibration in the shaft are both minimised. A target face marked with evenly distributed spots is best because you can practise the number of shots that you would normally shoot on the range in a round. Consistency between shots can be easily assessed this way. Aside from Japan and China, this type of practice is described in Arabic, Persian and Turkish manuals on archery. In all three cultures it was considered necessary for developing correct form and muscle memory. The Ottoman Turks also used it to recover shooting fitness after winter or for practising in inclement weather. The Turks used elm arrows because they were very tough and resistant to damage from repeated shots into the practice target. Their normal arrows were either reed (sometimes composite like certain Ming arrows) or of conifer woods.

[@EREBO95]

This distance is too close for fletchings to do their job.

[@nikandaz]

Eric, You are correct if you mean that the fletchings will not cause the arrows to straighten their flight to the same amount that they do at a greater distance. However, there is an effect which is noticeable depending on the degree of inconsistency in the individual archer's technique. It also is dependent on the size of the fletching. I have some old Korean target arrows that have short 1/8 inch high feathers, which would have little to no effect at gaozhen distances. If you used regular Ming dynasty fletching or the even larger Manchu style, there is an effect though it is not as big as what happens at five yards. The lack of fletching also means there is no wear and tear on the arrows. In Turkish, Persian and earlier Chinese styles, the closeness of the feathers to the nock can provide a distraction to beginners developing the correct drawing hand position.

[@PCSInternational]

I have been using this method for the last week or so, since I watched this video. I am very impressed in how fast I am seeing results in accuracy. this is a great way to get a feeling for the proper way of aiming and the proper sight picture. I can see why General Gao encouraged this practice. This is easier to understand seeing it. the book described it, yet this is a great supplement. Thank you.

[@theruleofthumb2171]

One of the best instructional archery video out there! kudos!

[@SarcastSempervirens]

totally worth going back on this channel and watching everything. the book is next

[@albertwu847]

Damn I need to try this.

[@snyggkille18]

Please make more of these! Like on release details etc 😊

[@tridi888]

very informative! thanks for sharing

[@abdulkabza]

Great video

[@abdulkabza]

Hi Justin! I read in Gao Ying's book that the author advocates a rigid bowhand during release. In our previous research we noticed that the bowhand cannot be held steady even it is wanted, and the bow jumps slightly outwards (slow-mot footages showed it). It seems to be the same when I saw yr hand from behind. My experience also showed that a torque of the grip is necessary to have a perfectly staright arrow in torna/gaozhen practice. If the bow is just tilted forwards, as called hatra in Mamluk treatises, the arrows are almost always angled to the target surface. I believe that the torque is the natural outcome of proper handgrip (which was emphasized by Gao Ying and even diagrams are given by him) rather than a conscious movement. What do you think about it? Murat

[@jtma04]

abdulkabza Exactly! Gao Ying actually disapproves of the rigid bow hand. Instead, Gao Ying advocates "Big Eagle Claw" which is a relaxed grip (holding with ring/pinky, relaxed for the index/middle). Any post-release bow movement is a natural outcome of the grip and a continuation of arms/shoulders movement. No conscious action --- just Newton's third law taking over.

[@abdulkabza]

Thanks a lot!

[@jtma04]

I need to find an easy term to describe this phenomenon. Maybe "mini-torque" or "mini-hatra". Because it's not deliberate, but the movement is still there.

[@flatmosquito]

It sounds like Khatra should be developed initially by feeling and moving with the natural deflection of the bow, and maybe using that to help know exactly how to move the bow out of the way?

[@tacoma1309]

Hi Justin: First, thank you and your team for taking on the huge task of translating Gao Ying's masterpiece. What a contribution to the archery community. It transported my archery from mediterrainian western Bear brand hunting style bow to horse bow on account of seemingly insurmountable issues w/target panic--in my case, not being able to get to full draw, while siting down the arrow w/my master eye. coming from Kendo, i appreciated the work both Gao and you put in. The solid bow shoulder and using both eyes to only focuss on the target instead of siting down the arrow solved the panic problem. I always return to the book when i have a problem. But now i want to ask you about the bow hand action (mini khatra?) at release--i seem to always be dropping my arm instead of just going sideways. I shoot a Vegh Turkish Bogar which has a narrow neck, and i love it and each one is very accurate, which is my goal always. Is there a way to train my bow arm to go outward just enough to make a straight line w/ the string and not get into "thrust forward" action? Thank you, Randy c @@jtma04

[@arnebucu8096]

Just discovered your channel and really interested in your content. (Saw the penetration test against the traditional Chinese plate armor). I'm a relatively new barebow recurve archer- just about a year. In that time , I've progressed from a one piece 30# wooden recurve to a 25" modern high end carbon recurve riser with 34# carbon foam limbs. A few weeks ago, I upgraded to Uukha 38# carbon limbs. Even though I'm comfortable with the increased bow poundage ( as evidenced by PB scores), I'm not 100% satisfied with my draw. I believe your training technique will really develop my strength and form much quicker. I have a similar set-up in my garage for bale shooting (#garagearchery). I just need to raise my foam target to shoulder height and stand closer. I noticed this shoulder height target and distance is very similar to Kyudo style bale shooting. I'm going to have to buy your book now! Also, I've been considering buying an Asiatic bow for awhile and now I'll have to, if only to balance my left and right shoulders with ambidextrous Gaozhen. Thank you for sharing and please keep up the good work. I'll have to look you guys up at your range since I have family in the San Francisco/Wine country area. Thanks again! May your arrows fly true!

[@TheWayofArchery]

Awesome! Please consider joining our Bay Area Asian Archery mailing list: groups.google.com/group/bay-area-asian-archery This way you can keep tabs on what we're up to the Bay Area, or perhaps reach out with questions about upcoming practices.

[@tangobayus]

I use a box of rags for a close range target. About 12" square. When the target side gets shot up I can put new cardboard over it and continue.

[@asap761]

woow thats good

[@crisloucks6805]

I have just come across your videos recently and i love and am inspired by them. I intend buy your book as soon as possible. As i understood your instruction very well(you are an excellent inatructor) i have a slightly different question from the others found here. What is that gorgeous bow and where did you get it?

[@jtma04]

Hi Cris, thanks for your support. I hope you enjoy the book! The bow in the video is a Ming-style Dashao horn composite bow made by Lukas Novotny of Saluki Bow Company.

[@crisloucks6805]

@@jtma04 That bow is beautiful. I got goose bumps the second i saw it. Thanks for the information.

[@ymlas02]

Would it be possible for you to do a video on your bow? design, draw weight, where to acquire one and so on. Thanks for the videos.

[@jtma04]

I'll keep it in mind for a possible future topic!

[@MRTOMBO]

I have a question about arrow position on the bow and thumbrings: Arrow on the left vs right side of the bow? What drives the choice? I seem to recall, perhaps mistakenly, that shooting arrows from the right side of the bow is slightly faster as you don't have to cross the arrow to the left side, and the thumbring technique keeps the arrow to the bow instead of flopping off? Yet, in some videos I've seen of Mongolian archers using thumbrings the vast majority of archers (in that video anyways) had the arrows on the left side. I'm ignorant here, and simply curious as to what the practical / real criteria is for left vs right placement of the arrow. Thanks much, I find your organized approach and presentation style clear and easily understood.

[@jtma04]

Mr. Tombo You're welcome. I'm happy to hear the video is useful. For right handed pull, arrow to the right of the handle helps achieve stable arrow hold in mobile situations. You can tilt the bow in any angle needed, and the arrow will still be in a stable position ready to shoot. Arrow on the left side is a modern 20th adaptation in places that had access to western recurve bows and wanted to transfer the same arrow position to traditional bows + thumb ring. This brings the arrow closer to the aiming eye and reduces obfuscation by the bow handle a bit. However this is only for static target shooting. Thumb ring + arrow on left is not for mobile situations as a slight perturbation is much more likely to make the arrow fall off.

[@MRTOMBO]

Thanks. I'll have to get the asian style of bow and thumb ring and learn then, as I'm not making the connection with stable arrow hold on the right is good versus on the left isn't as good. The only thing I can think (?) is that the hold at the nock end with the thumb ring is producing some kind of counter-clockwise force to the arrow (as if it was a clock hand) keeping it against the bow? Anyway, thanks again! :D

[@jtma04]

Mr. Tombo Yes, that's one reason (with the slight counter clockwise force). The other reason for stability with arrow ok right is that the draw hand index finger is slightly touching the side of the arrow shaft, so that provides a leftward force that lets the arrow stay near he shaft. Please have a look at my two thumb ring tutorials for an illustration of that principle. www.thewayofarchery.com/tutorials.html

[@Monkeydonkey10]

Could you recommend books to read on the correlation between archery and zen/self-discovery

[@thalhaarrimayahalkahfi6578]

hi justin to see your anchor point ....what is the sign or hints to put in your ear ?

[@winds134]

How much is your gaucheng the old one do they still use them are they still made traditional way and how much are they worth

[@permadynamicsnewzealand2698]

Hi Justin, Just got your book couple of days ago and eating it up. Just what I needed. Keep braking arrows with the Gaozhen. Bad release I guess. I only have a 45# Horsebow from bosenbow , I know too hard for a beginner. Did quite a bit of (bad) practice on a 30# selfbow for six weeks before until it broke. Can I improve my strength with chest expander to make that 45# ok for beginning? I am fairly strong to start with. Thanks K

[@TheWayofArchery]

Glad to hear you're enjoying the book! You could look to our "Beyond Strength" article for ideas: sites.google.com/view/beyond-strength/home Strength is rather activity-specific. Best way to improve strength is to shoot with an actual bow,

[@bortopedi]

What if a person have only one eye working ? Is likely too hard to shoot an arrow from the other hand.

[@preppmatic9543]

Hi guys! If I researched correctly, that is a Rinehart RhinoBlock XL right? I'm not sure if I can get it here in Sweden, but I saw the Cube 18-1 several times. Could you recommend one above the other or found another brand/modell which you can recommend? Thank you!

[@TheWayofArchery]

Yes, Rhino Block or Rhino Block XL is what we typically use. I can't think of another brand off the top of my head. Main thing is you have to factor in the replacement / maintenance costs as you practice with the bale over time.

[@thalhaarrimayahalkahfi6578]

hello sir in this style of anchorring...what is the sign to put your anchor ? does it stick with tour ear ?

[@peterxyz3541]

This is the only way my skills had a massive increase. I shot in my “massive”😂😂😂 indoor bedroom range of 4’.

[@jonc67uk]

Hi Justin, I'm trying to sort out a decent cheap gaozhen in the UK. Do you think I could get away with layering cheap ethafoam sheet targets? They are about 50cm x 50cm x 50mm thick. I'm looking at using it for no more than 65lb draw weight.

[@jtma04]

I can't say for sure. Ethafoam (from the pictures) seems like a rather porous material. My personal preference is for a very dense archery foam target like the Rinehart Rhino Block. That said, any target material is going to wear out over time. Just make sure you have a good backstop (e.g., plywood, or something else to catch an arrow that passes through the practice bale).

[@jonc67uk]

@@jtma04 thanks for the incredibly quick reply 😁 I'll stick to something purpose built.

[@bartcassauwers6710]

Hi Justin, nice uploads. Thanx. I’m thinking of making a Gaozhen myself. I have some plywood laying around and I’m mid level handy so that should work. Can you tell me the size of the gaozhen (in cm’s I’m European ^_^ ). I suppose I could buy archery foam at the archery shop. I do have piles of textile at hand so I’m thinking of hardpressing them in the gaozhen.

[@hipanny3792]

What is the bow you are using in video ?(開元？）

[@TheWayofArchery]

Can't say for sure it's "kaiyuan". I would say it could be a member of the generic "dashao (大稍)" category of Ming dynasty bows.

[@pemanahpemalas1929]

how should the bowhand's wrist position be in Gao ying's method? Is it outward (on release it will create side-khatra on purpose), relaxed or what? Thx

[@jtma04]

Neutral position. Post-release bow movement is relaxed/natural (no force, no khatra.... it's more like an unintentional mini-khatra).

[@pemanahpemalas1929]

@@jtma04 thx About big eagle claw: gripping tight with pinky and little finger, other fingers are relaxed. Is that right? Cmiiw

[@jtma04]

Ricky Sauqi that is correct. But you don't want to squeeze pinky and ring finger too tight if it tires out your bow hand.

[@pemanahpemalas1929]

@@jtma04 so its different from turkish-khatra-grip where pinky and little finger pull the bow and the base of thumb-index finger pushing the bow , right?

[@jtma04]

@@pemanahpemalas1929 The difference is in the amount of force applied, I think. There's no active pushing with the base of the thumb-index finger in the Eagle Claw.

[@Phjong]

Thanks a lot for the tutorial! At 5 yards, my arrows (stiffness is 400) tend to enter with head tilted left / tail tilted right. I have tried various adjustments of my posture but can't figure out how to make arrows enter perpendicularly.

[@jtma04]

You're welcome. First couple things to try in fixing it: (1) different spine (start with slightly stiffer), (2) preventing your hand from flicking sideways on release.

[@Phjong]

Thanks! I'm assuming you are referring to the the draw hand?

[@jtma04]

Phjong Indeed, draw hand. Also make sure you bow hand isn't performing an iron clench of the handle. More relaxed is better.

[@Phjong]

Will try. Many thanks!