VW Bus - Subaru Swap - What could it be? What do you think? - Episode 22

[@g.cooney6599]

Hi Mike & Shawn, How about measuring fuel PSI before you pull the motor. Put a T-fitting in line to a pressure gauge and see what you have. You can try this on the external pump with the gas can first to see what that has for pressure and then check the pump pressure in the fuel tank. Be careful of the fire hazard. Do you have ignition spark? Pull a spark plug wire, insert a spark plug in the end of the lead. Hold the plug to ground and look for a nice healthy blue spark across the electrode. Is the spark occurring at the correct time? Check with a timing light. Try checking for an intake leak. I carefully spray brake clean or carb clean around the intake manifold. Don't run the engine with the fuel diluted engine oil. ( check the oil level on the dipstick and feel how slippery it is and if it smells of fuel ) It will accelerate cylinder wall wear by washing down the oil film where the rings travel in the cylinder. The bearings don't like diluted oil either. So that said get it to run but only briefly and then change the oil & filter. You can always do a compression check as well. Cold engine temps will usually give lower readings and washed down cylinder walls will effect compression too. 100 PSI should be enough. I got late to the party so I don't know what has been done so far to the engine ( rebuilt, new, junkyard dog?) Timing belts? See how much the scan tool can tell you. Crank position sensor, cam position sensor ( you should see engine rpm when cranking it over, maybe 500-600 rpm ) coolant temp sensor. Your fuel injector tester light worried me it would freak out the ECU. A noid light is the tester usually used. Borrow one. Please don't be offended if I have stated the obvious. Hope this helps. I'll watch for further developments. G.

[@GarageTime]

Thanks! Lots of helpful info here, we be running a bunch of these tests.

[@JewelryRvMe]

Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and look for fuel. If the rubber diaphram is old and cracked it will leak through therefor sucking fuel causing flooding

[@GarageTime]

Great, will give this a try first! Thanks. I seem to be thinking it has to do with the regulator.

[@zundfolge1432]

run the fuel pump with out cranking and monitor fuel pressure. If pressure drops quickly or leaks down, then find the leak. you mentioned 60 and now have 260 injectors for more flow? Not sure I understood that. You might have to put the stock injectors back in if not stock. 5 bucks says you have a leaking injector and or wrong injectors?

[@martinvaldepena48]

Mike I had the same problem with my swap I was going crazy I thought it was my harness the same guy who did your harness did mine it’s all good now. The problem am having over heating radiator belly mount Spot I would like to if you have part number on the expansion tank an the tee you have spliced on the hose going to you engineThanks again Martin from Arizona

[@kenmcghee6470]

I would want to see some kind of scope readout of the pulses: 1) coming from the ECU to the injectors and 2) from the Cam Position Sensor and 3) Crank Position sensor while the engine is turning over. Disconnect the fuel pump and take the plugs out and turn it over to do this. The timing of the crank position and cam position sensors need to be right to run. If the ECU is sending signals to the injectors at the right time and place, it will run. It sounds like it wants to start, so I doubt the timing belt and cams are out of time. It sounds like its an electrical problem.

[@panel11111111]

You can add a quick 12v+ to each injector and you'll hear it click to confirm it's working. It wont tell you the spray pattern but you'll know it's opening and closing etc. You could pull the rail with the injectors if you want. Also did you do the spark test to all 4 spark plugs not just the one spark plug like in your last video ?

[@GarageTime]

Hi Marc, yes, going to try injectors, but seems odd they all would be stuck. But who knows at this point, going to try everything to cross things off the list.

[@randyjohnson8097]

Dude , I have a friend who is a mechanic by trade . He drives Subarus , that said , he was having similar issues with a project he was working on . Turns out one of the timing belt pulleys was not a proper match with the ecm . . . This caused a timing issue between fuel and spark . . . . In this case , the remedy was to replace the cam shaft pulley with one that was compatible with the ECM (the correct year of manufacture ) . I really enjoy your shows , keep them coming !

[@randyjohnson8097]

May I suggest double checking your ignition spark timing . . . Needless to say , spark should be happening at the peak of the compression stroke . . . Untimely spark is pretty much worthless . . . Good luck my friend !

[@GarageTime]

Thanks for your input.

[@GarageTime]

Didn't know this was a possibility. Will read more about it. Thanks.

[@EricFB]

I went through a similar fuel/no start issue with my camper when I did my conversion. Here are a couple things I tried that eventually lead to it running. I also sent you a PM on the samba. If you have a fuel pressure gauge hook that up to see what your actual fuel pressure is if you don't you can disconnect or pinch your vac line to it - simulating wot and providing max flow/pressure. Your injectors will only flood the engine if they are stuck open, leaking, or you have been trying for too long haha. You'll need new injector seals but another thing I did was pull the rail out, in your case two rails and put some paper towel under them. Have someone crank it over for maybe 2-3 seconds and watch the spray pattern. Only takes a couple cranks and isn't as messy as it may sounds - will also eradicate your suspicion that the ecm is holding an injector on. If it's all good - new seals and put it back together. Triple check your ignition timing if cap and rotor (i'm clearly not super familiar with subi's). Check live date with your scan tool. If you can, look at cam and crank sensors for activity while cranking. That's a very quick way to cross all of those sensors and sensor wiring off the list, remember your ecm won't allow spark if it isn't getting a crank signal. Another quick and dirty test that I should have mentions first is try to get it running on brake clean. Disconnect the electrical to your injectors, make sure your spark plugs are good and dry, then try to run it on brake clean. If you can get it to cough to life give it a couple more shots to keep it running for maybe 5-8seconds, let it die then plug your injectors back in again. Get it going again with brake clean and try with the throttle to keep it going on gas alone using brake clean to help it chug to life. This is what worked for me. It took about 10 seconds of feathering the throttle and little shots of brake clean before it finally smoothed out and ran on its own. Not very scientific but it's worth a shot. Since then it always starts no prob. I apologize if I suggested things you've already covered in other video's. Cheers and good luck!

[@GarageTime]

Thanks Eric! Great ideas here. Will give it a shot.

[@abbysapples1225]

I don't know what the problem is with your engine. But I like watching your shows because I want to see this get running and I have a 98 legacy with a 2.2 liter manual all-wheel drive wagon. And I really like my car and I have the exhaust open up so I can hear that box engine sound or flat-4 engine sound. And I just had the timing belt replaced and it runs a hell of a lot better than it did before the mechanic didn't tell me but I think it might have jumped a few teeth on the timing. well anyways I just wanted to show my support to your videos you have really good quality.

[@GarageTime]

Thanks for you input.

[@kendallwheeler53]

It is imperative that the fuel PRESSURE be correct as well as the fuel volume. You didn’t mention that. It sounded like it wanted to start with the fuel shut off. Take your spark plugs out and let the cylinders and plugs dry out, get the fuel pressure sorted, reinstall the plugs and try again. Good luck.

[@GarageTime]

Thanks, yes I am also blaming fuel, need to sort that system out.

[@JewelryRvMe]

What is interesting is how many times the injector powers on. You are cranking and it injects every rotation not every other rotation. Think about that. Maybe your crank and cam sensors are reversed on the wrong sensor. Just a thought. Check your pinout

[@GarageTime]

Thanks will do.

[@damionlabounty7116]

check to make sure that the triggers are correct for the ecu

[@GarageTime]

OK, thanks for this, going to look into it.

[@majormojo]

I don’t know Subaru engines, but.... some things I would’ check: is the fuel pressure reg working? Could it be stuck closed? Have you checked compression? Is it possible the ignition coil pack is mounted 180 deg out and spark timing is wrong? Have you double checked timing belt is timed correctly? You’re getting fuel and spark, so if you can confirm compression then it seems like only timing is left...

[@blalalabla]

Hi, could it be that you are have i a ignition problem that is because of not sufficient grounds? Subaru have 5 grounding points original and still people often add more, vw has only one.. I just added one extra on my ej25 in a vw bay and it seems to take less cranking now.

[@blalalabla]

And be sure that the ecu gets a cranking signal from the starter.

[@philmoorehouse8064]

fuel pressure regulator?

[@GarageTime]

Using the stock Subaru one, have to check if it is faulty, but thinking I am add 3rd party inline one. Thanks.

[@damionlabounty7116]

if it came from a car that had the earlier style triggers and ecu is later style it will think it’s at about 4x rpm, they used both in multiple years depending on weather it was a manual or automatic car

[@manuelvazquez5388]

Did you check the retur fuel hose...??

[@GarageTime]

Yup, not sure if you have seen the follow up videos, but was the timing gear. All sorted now, drives great!

[@Mg_L.A.]

The injector can be stock on open, allowing fuel to drip in even when off and flood the camber when on. Other option is a missing tooth on the cam. My main tought its part of problem.

[@stephanhartzenberg5386]

Agree - is fuel only dripping from he one bank? If so I would start that side and test injectors on cylinder 1 and 2.

[@GarageTime]

Unfortunately, it is dripping out on both sides. Will be running a bunch of test tomorrow night. Thanks for your input.

[@SUBDUB67]

Can you get your hands on a mechanics scan tool? Should give you all the codes, fuel pressure and errors codes. An auto electrician could take a look over and give you some help, fingers crossed boys .

[@stephanhartzenberg5386]

Get the Torque application for accurate codes on stock ECU

[@GarageTime]

Purchased the Bosch OBDII tool, however the app seems limited, wish I went down ELM327 route...

[@SUBDUB67]

Garage Time I used the ecu from the same engine to avoid issues, you will get there boys!

[@robertallen2525]

Hello. I found your site while searching and I’m having problems my self doing a 74 standard bug... it will start by the key and run but will not turn off.. any ideas?

[@GarageTime]

If you are running a stock carb I would check the idle shut off valve. Check out this, first site that came up, but will give you idea. Hopefully that is it, a simple fix. Thanks and good luck. vwparts.aircooled.net/Idle-Shut-Off-Valve-30-31-30-Pict-2-058129413D-p/058-129-413d.htm

[@terrybaptist795]

Just a suggestion but maybe you pay Subaru mechanic to take a look at it and tell you what the problem is. Or load it onto trailer and take it to a Subaru mechanic to find out what the problem is. Best of luck to luck to in getting it running?

[@GarageTime]

Yes, it is a possibility if I can't figure in the next few weeks.

[@pyronitro]

Not sure if you checked it yet, rebuilt a engine on my civic, after install, tried a first start and it didnt catch. later realized I didnt adjust the valves so there was no compression. it fired beautifully after adjustment. keep going. i repeat. darkest before the dawn! :) its good you have the OBD with App reader. aside from trouble codes, can you get sensor readings from that? if not, you can take it up a notch, get the diagnostic sw FREESSM and the cable. like this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qHiZlGumm6iKgtE quite inexpensive.

[@pyronitro]

check this out if this is your issue: forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2178069 faulty fuel pressure regulator or forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1222963 missing injector orings

[@mikehammer4546]

No return line on the fuel 🤔

[@GarageTime]

Hi Mike, unfortunately not that simple, return line is hooked up. We did a test and return appears to have same flow as supply, when in test mode. Thanks for the idea.