GARVIN No. 12 Milling Machine Power Feed

Can this power feed be installed on a 1906 Garvin No.12 milling machine? We will try. I have put a list of things I need in order to do this install. Hopefully we will start in February 2024.

[@JourneymanRandy]

I plan on making a new plate with steel like Max Rustinox and others are suggesting. Thanks for all the great input from a wonderful yt community. This video was much more helpful than I expected. Thanks everyone.

[@swanvalleymachineshop]

Good one . I would look at making either an adaptor plate , or better a complete new one from steel . Best if the table end is machined square . Or an adapter plate could have pointed grub screws to act as leveling screws next to the mount bolts . 👍

[@JourneymanRandy]

You're right, Max. Good advice. It isn't square at all. I will do my best. This is pushing my abilities. Thanks for the tips.

[@OldIronShops]

I have a b&s universal #1 1/2 very close in size and time to your mill .it has factory power feed with a kick out .oll done with flat bets and a small gear box. Fun to see how things worked pre ww1

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi Chris. I see yours. No videos for a while. I have seen the power feed in photos and videos. Unfortunately my mill didn't come with any parts. It's so small I often say it's an in-between bench top and floor model.Thaks for stopping by.

[@OldIronShops]

@@JourneymanRandy hard to find spair parts now days. I've become my own pattern shop to fix missing bits

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

I put that same power feed on my mill about 5 years ago. I got it off E-bay for 140 bucks I think. It is still going strong.

[@JourneymanRandy]

That makes me feel better. I was worried it would crap out in no time. I got mine off ebay. 140 us is $188 Canadian. I can't wait to see it running. Thanks Tom.

[@eyuptony]

Hi Randy. I'm with everybody else. It'll be a lot quicker and stronger made out of steel. Cheers Tony

[@JourneymanRandy]

Thanks for watching Tony. I now plan to make that part out of steel. Good advice from everyone. I have almost everything I need. One item should arrive end of January.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

A bit of adapting to do.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Yes. I think I have it figured out. I just gotta execute. We will see how it goes. I found my RR scriber. Thanks Randy. Cutting more firewood today.

[@Rustinox]

I think I would make a new plate from scratch, just like others suggested.

[@JourneymanRandy]

Great advice. That is what I plan to do now with steel. I appreciate your input Rusti.

[@TheAyrCaveShop]

Hi Randy, I'm with Max on making an adapter plate say 5/8 tick w/counterbored screws. Are you going to make extension for the lead screw? Probably threaded and pined to the existing. Interesting project 👍

[@JourneymanRandy]

Hi Dean. That's exactly what I want to do. Max nailed it. That's what I should do. It's weird the lead screw is just hanging there. I'm not sure it came from the factory like that. Again, thanks for the tips.

[@trollforge]

If I were to go with the stock plate and chopping the top off, I would look at getting the recesses where it will need to be drilled, filled in with weld, and milled true before starting anything else... just my 2¢.

[@JourneymanRandy]

If I did chop it I would mill it flat and make a trim piece to cover the hollow area. Considering it would be weakened by doing that, my plan is to make a steel piece, as Max suggested. This machine is a 1906. Pre WW1. Can you Imagine if it could talk. Thanks Tim

[@trollforge]

@@JourneymanRandy I found out recently that these Victorian treadle screw cutting machines were still seeing service in the Royal Navy's Submarines in the 70s... No motor no sonar image...