GE Dishwasher Not Heating, Drying or Cleaning? Diagnose and Repair it Yourself!

[@ahmedelbially1266]

Thank you for such a detailed video, you saved me a lot of money 🙏

[@MADEbyAP]

You’re very welcome! Glad it helped!

[@GoldenPeach-z5b]

everybody stopped at heat element in their videos. Yours was the only one to point to other potential issues.

[@MADEbyAP]

Thanks! Yeah figured I’d try and point out a few different things!

[@adamwade1808]

@9:21 i think the float switch also has a temperature sensor which controls the heating element.

[@tbyers31]

About a year ago our dishes cleanliness started to deteriorate. A white greasy residue would be left primarily on plastic. I researched high and low about dishwasher not cleaning well and everything was about impellers and filters and vinegar. THIS VIDEO got to the real issue: LACK OF HEAT! It makes sense (now) that heat is crucial to melting away the gunk on the dishes! Ten bucks and a new float sensor later, a dishwasher headed for the dumpster lives again! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU! I can't believe I'm so excited about a dishwasher but whatever.

[@MADEbyAP]

So glad this helped and saved it from the landfill! Here’s to more years of clean dishes!

[@danlower7834]

Great video overall. Having just done this on my end I would recommend a few things to anyone trying it: 1. When pulling the float out, put something under it so the wiring doesn't fall into the hole! The harness is short so be prepared 2. Manufacturer site for my dishwasher says these are half-inch socket screws, but mine were actually one-quarter inch. 3. There is more water in this area than i thought! Be careful in soaking it all up before removing the part.

[@MADEbyAP]

Great tips. Thank you!!!

[@nm9586]

That was a very good video. It went through all the steps to check why the heating element is not turning on.

[@patcap8887]

THANK YOU! Mine wasn't heating and I watched a bunch of videos. I was confident I would know how to at least test the heating element, but, I wasn't 100% sure where to go next if that wasn't the issue. Turns out, my heating element was indeed fine and it was the flood switch. Even after cleaning it out, which improved the resistance, it still wasn't enough and I opted for a new part. I went with actual GE part and it was more expensive but worth it for that peace of mind. I just have completed my first cycle with my washer getting hot and cleaning things again. Your video helped lead me to the flood switch and identify that as the issue. THANK YOU!

[@MADEbyAP]

You’re welcome!! Glad you were able to do it yourself! Woo!!

[@DIYMechanic57]

Thanks for this video. I almost assumed it was the heater element and was going to order it. You saved me $40 on the heater element and the frustration of waiting on the part, just to find out it wasn't faulty. Looks like it's my float that went bad. Great video.

[@abhishekdasgupta5296]

That’s the thermistat along with float switch. Mines not heating lately. Your detailed step by step video definitely going to help me out to get it figured out and hopefully fixed.

[@MADEbyAP]

Glad it helped!

[@madaboutplaidnw]

Just wanted to say thanks. The reset breaker worked for me.

[@MADEbyAP]

Great to hear!

[@petersongonzaga2341]

Thank yo so much! I've done so much on our dishwasher from replacing hoses etc. Then all of sudden the water wasn't "heating up." Found your video and did all the steps, and it was th flood switch! Save us from buying another dishwasher!!!

[@MADEbyAP]

Oh great glad you found the video helpful!!

[@f5fstop]

Float switch contains a thermistor used as a temp sensor and that signal is sent to a circuit board.

[@johnkilman9279]

Thanks for taking time to do this. As fate would have it my problem was the float switch.

[@MADEbyAP]

Glad to help!!

[@timj1196]

When the water fills inside the dishwasher the float rises and completes or closes the switch allowing electricity to flow to the heating element

[@MADEbyAP]

Ahh. Thanks!

[@stuzman52]

This is incorrect! The float switch is closed without any water in the tub. The float switch is wired in series to the water inlet valve which is fed from the main control board with a voltage of 13.5VDC. When the water starts to come inside the tub, a 60 second timer inside the microcontroller is started. Once this timer expires, the main control board removes the 13.5VDC from the water inlet valve. The float switch is still in a closed condition. The float switch will only open such as when a drain pump doesn't remove the water and on the next water fill cycle the water level continues to rise. This is why it's called a flood switch. The thermistor is a resistor that varies with temperature. The thermistor is fed 5VDC through a fixed resistor value inside the main control board. The voltage dropped across this fixed resistor is fed to an analog to digital converter which is inside the microcontroller. I think I'll do a video on this circuitry to fully explain its operation and how to diagnose this system. Great video in showing your honesty and helping other folks out there. Have a great New Year!

[@rocknral]

The reason why the element is connected to a float switch is to make sure the element is submerged or else you'll cook it. Same as boiling the electric kettle empty.

[@kevingoodrich5472]

The float switch lets the unit know if there is water in the unit an its ok to heat the water. My guess at least. Thanks for the video

[@alexjr181]

To remove the float switch, use something small and pointy to release the two black latches on the small sides and one green latch on the large side.

[@bobbyhook6382]

You were right on the money ...float switch only 16.99....easy to put it in and dishwasher is back to new ... didn't even have to remove dishwasher from under the counter

[@MADEbyAP]

Niiiice!!

[@arruby7932]

Thank you so much. Mine is the same brand so this is the exact troubleshooting I need !

[@MADEbyAP]

Glad I could help!

[@YOGiiZA]

Float switch has a thermistor in it for measuring proper temp

[@samanthaperkins2764]

Thank you so very much. This video was Incredibly helpful! 🎉

[@MADEbyAP]

Oh good! Glad to help!

[@shakamuni01]

I think the logic of the float switch is to make sure that water is counter acting the element enough to keep it within safe operation. If there is not enough water that balancing of extreme temperatures will not happen.

[@geoffrundlett1697]

They should call it a multi-function switch. It contains a float switch to control water level but it also contains a thermistor to control heating element cycling and for reasons only GE knows, they make garbage parts where the thermistors don't last and end up "shorting out" as you showed where the old one doesn't have enough resistance to tell the control board to energize the heating element so it never comes on. The heating element is used with or without water...it can heat water to help sanitize and it can heat air to help dry. The thermistor lowers its resistance as temperature rises to ensure there is never boiling water nor burning plastic because as the resistance lowers so does the voltage drop and the control board will only energize the heating element with a certain amount of required voltage drop. Once the thermistor has a permanently low resistance value, the heating element will no longer "work" because the control board won't let it.

[@MADEbyAP]

It’s a shame that they just can’t make parts that last or aren’t multifunction (increasing the failure points). That being said, way better than hand washing g these things 🤣 Thanks for the note!

[@mikejames663]

Thank you from Wales, UK

[@MADEbyAP]

You're welcome!

[@charleslambertjr3842]

Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video, I’ve watched several today, and no one else showed how to test the old part- I really appreciate the time you took for this detailed video, curious if you can tell me where you found the information to know which pins to test and what the values should be? I am a maintenance supervisor for an apartment community and I always want to test parts instead of just replacing them when possible, definitely going to subscribe to your channel, have a great day 😎

[@MADEbyAP]

Thanks for the comment and glad you found this helpful!! Appreciate the subscribe.

[@dustinkaraffa8885]

Keep up the good work!

[@MADEbyAP]

Thank you!!

[@eastbayheelflipskateboardi4448]

Great video

[@MADEbyAP]

Thank you!

[@yougle101]

Thank you this helped alot

[@MADEbyAP]

Awesome!

[@beingatliberty]

My dishwasher has an inflow heater element, which I believe is attached to a metal pipe below the waterline which remains in the bottom at all times. as such I don’t think my dishwasher has a float switch, although it also isn’t heating, I did an ohms test, and the heating register 26 to 32 ohms which should mean it’s okay? So need I need to check other causes.

[@ericfrankhauser9872]

Thanks. This did the trick!

[@MADEbyAP]

Nice!!

[@DaveBoothroyd-ej5in]

So - check the float switch first, possibly save yourself pulling out and disconnecting the washer at all.

[@MADEbyAP]

Totally could.

[@mazedaarChutkule]

how to check that?

[@H1gh-3nd]

Thank You!

[@Nvious1]

When you do the temp checks are you hitting the heating element with the gauge or the water temp in the bottom.?

[@MADEbyAP]

Hi! I was testing the temp of the water in the basin, it was supposed to get in excess of 130 degrees but it wasn't getting even close to that.

[@fordsmall5381]

What size were the bolts holding in the float?

[@MADEbyAP]

Oh wowie I honestly don’t know. They weren’t that big. Sorry can’t help on that one.

[@LanaLeon]

It begins at 1:48 minutes :)

[@henryrichardson9433]

You do not always have to disconnect the drain hose or the power supply if they have enough slack.

[@MADEbyAP]

Good tip thanks for sharing!

[@fi4007]

Very helpful video you made, I just have a question: I don't want to pull the entire dishwasher if it is not necessary, so I pulled my float switch, cleaned up and checked with the multimeter. Initially showed 0,89 or around that number and I was very kind of happy that float switch was the issue, but after shaking it well and getting it cleaned with grease remover now it is reading around 13,5. I tested (acting as if it is in the dishwasher being exposed to the water temperature) by inserting into hot water numbers started dropping and putted into refrigerator to see if number comes back up so it did. Do you think or others who has some knowledge about it my rigorous cleaning did the job or initial reading (0.89) was incorrect and float switch is fine and need to check heating element? So making it short can dirt build up cause for it to malfunction? Thank you in advance to any response.

[@lakescottful]

I am struggling to get on the screws holding the float in the dishwasher. Do you know what size it is?

[@fringeminority5676]

There is a thermistor inside the float and its a common failure

[@jjsmnow]

Maybe I missed it ,but you did not shut off and disconnet the water supply fill hose? If U did not U shoud edit that back in before some viewer breaks the plastic fill hose connection when they try to pul it out and floods his house.. Ps I aways use a shop vac to suck the water out of the supply hose hose after shuting it off and to take the water out of the drain. Less towels to use.

[@MADEbyAP]

So apparently I live dangerously as I did NOT turn off the water supply. Just turned off the breaker. I’ll have to see if there’s a way to add a disclaimer to the video. Thanks for painting that out. Yikes.

[@stuzman52]

@@MADEbyAP You did okay as you do not need to turn off the water supply to replace the flood switch. In fact, you do not have to remove the dishwasher to replace the flood switch. It's a good idea to turn off the electrical supply when changing the flood switch.

[@reniholloway898]

I ordered a float with online from Amazon but when received it the pins seemed slightly bigger even though description says it was compatible. Can you provide the link of the float switch that you purchased? Thanks

[@MADEbyAP]

Hi! This is the one I purchased. amzn.to/3HYN4qt looks like it’s only available through third party sellers though. This one has the same part number and can be ordered from Amazon it looks like. Although I can’t vouch for that one. amzn.to/41NKko3 hope that helps!

[@reniholloway898]

Thanks I will purchase them and hope it works!@@MADEbyAP

[@ianforgie5711]

Water only goes to 100 degrees, where does the 120- 130 come from.

[@MADEbyAP]

If your water is only at 100 it’s possible the heater or thermistor aren’t getting it up to the 120-130. The 100 is probably what’s coming direct from your house water heater I’d think. Hope that helps!

[@luke3917]

My Zanussi does not have its heating element exposed like in the video 😢

[@MADEbyAP]

Oh no! Yeah this is specific to the GE one. I’ve seen a few comments where the heating element isn’t exposed in other brands. Sorry I can’t help!

[@dynamozoe]

What might the issue be if the water doesn't heat up, then it heats up one time then stops again.

[@MADEbyAP]

Hrm. Not entirely sure. It could be a sign that one of the things I covered is about to go, ie the heating element or the switch. Maybe rub the diagnostics like I illustrated and see if anything jumps out?

[@dynamozoe]

@@MADEbyAP ok thanks. A neighbor is getting rid of a similar model so I grabbed it and tried to fix THAT one but no luck. (They said it was leaking. It didn’t leak for me but then it stopped with error code E25. We checked everything. It went away. Now it just flashes on and off and it’s got rinse aid. I’m thinking it could be an electronic malfunction)

[@PlatePursuits]

and if it reads 40?

[@MADEbyAP]

After you changed it? Did you check the other items as well?

[@PlatePursuits]

@@MADEbyAP thank you for the reply! yes sir it is a brand new heating element and it tests 40 ohms. There is also a brand new high temperature thermostat. Brand new motor and pump. Still will not get hot. Took apart the controller and there is no visible indication of faults. I am going through the checklists and came upon your video which was very helpful. If you have any suggestions I am all ears.. thought maybe I had some wires crossed going from the element to the high temp sensor but swapping how they connect did nothing. Blue/white to one side, black and red to other. Both connections going to the high temp sensor are red and black however.. my model does not have a float switch. The float is separate from the filter.

[@MADEbyAP]

Ah sorry for the delay! Was out of town last week and YT does a terrible job of notifying me of comments! This is an interesting one and I think beyond my knowledge (I’m just a DIYer not a pro installer). Really curious what your solution ends up being! Sorry I can’t help on this one!

[@ijugornot]

The float switch is included because if it was submerged it could, the element, electrify metal parts of the dishwasher. Remember water and electricity don't mix.

[@rocknral]

Not correct actually.

[@g.k.1669]

Everyone else on the planet has a float switch on their GE easily accessible. I open up the screen and find nothing in there except water. No float switch. 😖

[@MADEbyAP]

Whaattt?? Yeah that's interesting! My dishwasher repair skills aren't advanced enough to help out on this one. Good luck and may the force be with you.

[@fur252]

Mine doesn’t have a float switch either! U find a fix?

[@g.k.1669]

@@fur252 Yes. If you withdraw the dishwasher, disconnect the power for safety and have enough slack in the water hose, you can partially tip the dishwasher towards the front door if you have someone to hold it or something to lean it on. On the right side at the bottom of the pan (don't know what else to call the area that holds the water at the bottom of the dishwasher) or base of the dishwasher you will find a small black button device that holds it up against the bottom of the pan. This device is a temperature safety device that trips off the heating element if the water of internal temperature of the dishwasher gets too hot. It is kind of difficult to see, but it has a reset button on it that you can push back in with your fingernail or something like an ink pen. I reset mine twice because it kept on tripping. I then bent the little thin metal clip that holds it up against the pan to place a small air gap (about the thickness of a piece of paper) between the temperature device and the bottom of the pan. I don't know it that is a good idea safety wise but my hot water tank is set for very hot water so maybe that was causing it to get too hot when the heating element came on? Anyways, I have not had any problems since. Once you find it, it is really easy to push the button. There is a part number on it if you want to order a new one just in case it is becoming defective. Hope this helps.

[@g.k.1669]

@@MADEbyAP Thanks. I figured it out.

[@fur252]

Thanks for the reply. I’ve reset tco switch twice now and still does it! So I’m guessing that’s my problem! Thanks again

[@mikescarano6752]

Thanks for the entertainment. Oh by the way just because the thermal overload did not trip doesn't mean it didn't have an open circuit. Just a appliance technicians thought '

[@MADEbyAP]

Thanks for this info! Didn't realize that. Does that happen a lot? How would one identify if that's the culprit?

[@mikescarano6752]

Just use your ohm meter set at the lowest setting on ohms an you should read 0 ohms. If your meter has a beeper sound it will steadly beep

[@MADEbyAP]

Thank you!

[@1002timbo]

Why not use a straw to drink the water out, especially if you’re thirsty. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@JamesHannonAuthor]

That’s not a bad idea…. Or you can use it in the cookies you’ll make

[@MADEbyAP]

@@JamesHannonAuthor don’t encourage this.

[@MADEbyAP]

That’s the best idea ever. Want to be my tester?

[@JamesHannonAuthor]

@@MADEbyAP I think I’ll pass…. There’s prob milk involved - all yours to test

[@stuartgriffiths3296]

Get on with it, stop waffling

[@MADEbyAP]

Who doesn’t like a waffle once in awhile?

[@kimslau]

To be honest This video has TOO mush BS non essential talk. So frustrating!

[@MADEbyAP]

Sorry you didn’t find this helpful. Thanks for the feedback!

[@The_BoardGame_Sherpa]

@@MADEbyAP Personally I like the mushy BS Non-Essential talk - its what I come to the channel for!

[@MADEbyAP]

@The_BoardGame_Sherpa Daw thanks ☺️

[@The_BoardGame_Sherpa]

@@MADEbyAP anytime - keep it up!

[@jonathanwheeler3560]

Liked and subbed. Culprit was the float switch coming in at .55. Thanks!

[@MADEbyAP]

Those crazy float switches! Glad this helped!