Complete Guide to the Bowler (Derby) Hat & How To Wear It

[@23rdFoot]

The bowler hat with a black suit and umbrella was once the "walking out" dress for British officers, which is why it is seen when veterans march with their former units in the UK.

[@ThePassionFwuit]

This is a great video. I actually had no idea the bowler hat was primarily seen as a working class hat for so long. As a blue collar man who works with his hands, I've been trying to introduce more timeless looks (mostly I love Edwardian styles) into the way I dress every day, even while on the job. I know you mostly seem to make videos on very formal wear, but I'd really like to see a video for blue collar workers like myself and how we can look our best while being practical and vintage.

[@BramClaes]

I think a bowler hat looks best when paired with an all white outfit, complete with suspenders, a jockstrap and a pair of black combat boots. That really sharpens you up for a bit of the old ultraviolence!

[@lemonysnicket3153]

Clockwork orange vibes

[@marshallemmet1366]

It's real horrorshow to viddy such platties!

[@andychrist2922]

"I'M CURED!"

[@bigtoelittlefinger6133]

I concur sir

[@worm_vaquero]

Ultra violence

[@jordanthomas8453]

I have been waiting for this video for 2 years. I utterly adore bowler hats and am so happy we finally have a definitive guide on them with the mellifluous narration of Preston's voice.

[@bigtoelittlefinger6133]

I have just acquired a coke hat for 5 Scottish pounds in bonnie Scotland in a place cauld paisley ....just as well am fae Scotland

[@mungulor]

Just a quick point for our American friends - Leicester is pronounced "les-ter" rather than "lie-ster" :)

[@gentlemansgazette]

Thanks for the clarification! Sometimes those subtle pronunciation differences can be pesky; I was surprised to hear the narrator of the Pathé reel mispronounce "Coke," for instance. :) - Preston

[@mungulor]

@@gentlemansgazette I can only apologise for our strange, British pronunciations that seem to go directly against the spellings!

[@brunogiambroni1422]

I’ve been pronouncing it Like-Esther 😂 Thanks for the info!!

[@joshmiller7777]

As a fellow British person, I'm glad you mentioned that haha!

[@LewisSkinner]

I came here to say this! 🤣

[@dararohan1209]

The bowler was actually the original hat of the Cowboy. As cattlemen moved westward, the most common hat seen was the bowler.

[@georgelush1998]

Yes! A little known fact. Most folks think it was the iconic 10-gallon hat of the 1950’s TV Westerns. HBO’s TV series “Deadwood” got it right. The characters were not immaculately groomed and dressed like the Cartwrights.

[@dararohan1209]

@@georgelush1998 They did eventually switch to more wide brimmed hats. Especially further south.

[@worm_vaquero]

The hat that won the west

[@glared]

It’s ironic how the most versatile accessories are the underrated ones. Because stiff hats are mostly if not all the most formal, but the Bowler hat was also common amongst the middle class but also in the aristocracy.

[@Jo_Wardy]

Even Cowboys preferred the Bowler/Derby look up butch Cassidy gang

[@doct0rnic]

I first started to love the bowler after seeing it from cartoons and comics like Tin Tin. I even have a photo of my great great grand father Chief Yellowhammer, newly released as a prisoner of war in 1905 from the Modoc war, return to Oregon and he had a bowler clutched in his hand. So I got my first bowler in 7th grade a Bailey from the local haberdasher in Portland and wore it during more formal settings but I always noticed people wearing them in tough situations like heavy work in movies. I always wondered why in movies based in the West and early 20th century seen the bowler worn in all situations. So I started to wear the hat all the time but got disappointed that it started to lose its shape from rain. I currently work at the railroad and occasionally will wear my original worn out bowler at work in cooler weather because it's wool and I still like the idea of an all purpose hat like I grew up watching. I do have a more nicer one which I wear in more cleaner conditions. It's still my favorite hat to pair with my wool top coat in the winter along with my top hats.

[@viclucyzia]

There is nothing like learning history. This was trove of knowledge that opens one mind and see the bowler hat from a different angle. Im getting one ! Maybe in brown. Thank you !

[@irishredcoat6825]

Bowler Hat is one of my favourite out of other hats

[@reneegiese6315]

I can easily understand that

[@crazysteve9390]

I don’t know that I’ve ever encountered someone wearing one of these. But if I ever do, I am DEFINITELY complimenting him on his Billycock.

[@CloudEvangelist]

I have a Bowler from Diefenthal in Colone, Germany, and I love it.

[@TheRefinedGentleman]

What's not to love about bowler hats? They look great with my stroller, of which I usually pair with light-grey twill or cashmere-striped trousers. The bowler contrasts nicer with the cashmere-stripes in my opinion, but still looks pretty smart with the solid grey trousers nonetheless. Having a bowler is a great investment for your wardrobe since it's practical (can be worn for formal occasions, with everyday business attire and maybe even certain types of smart casual outfits if you're daring) and you'll look sharp too. It's a shame men stopped wearing hats, but on the other hand, you'll probably get lots of compliments if you do wear a more traditional hat style. A bowler will definitely bring many compliments even if you're not dressing it up as much as it could. Thanks for the informative video, your content is always a joy to watch. It makes me happy to see that traditional menswear will continue to live on, especially since my generation keeps getting more casual and can't wear suits, let alone a dress shirt correctly. Edit: Fixed Grammar

[@sonnycorleone3251]

Detachable collar boi, I agree. Men are way too casual these days. I still wear a fedora but only with a leather jacket, with no suit in the fall weather, as an Indiana Jones kind of look. Sometimes I wear the brim up too.

[@TheRefinedGentleman]

@@sonnycorleone3251 Nice, that sounds classic. A fedora or a bowler are my goto everyday hats. I agree with you about how casual it's gotten the last few years. My peers and colleagues all seem to gravitate to jeans, track pants or hoodies. Sport coats count as "formal" according to them lol

[@sonnycorleone3251]

@@TheRefinedGentleman Yes, Even some guests at weddings and funerals I see guys toooo casually dressed. I think dressed down Fridays brought everything down to eventually all week casual basically. Too bad. All the best to you!

[@TheRefinedGentleman]

@@sonnycorleone3251 Yeah pretty much, seems like most things mainstream these days are "comfy." Regarding funerals, if it's too casual it's plain disrespectful to the deceased. Thank you, may your sartorial journey be fulfilling!

[@vincent7584]

Thanks to you guys I finally made a decision and bought a bowler hat ( genuine vintage one ), it's great it fits very well, good condition, looks great and obviously its real vintage. So thank you very much Gentelman's Gazette and keep up the good work. PS. Please just one small video about frock coats please.

[@lilcwa]

A very interesting video-although I was flabbergasted that it wasn’t until the 14:21 mark that A Clockwork Orange was given its due as a sartorial statement!

[@channingcheese2]

Preston looking like the riddler more than ever in this video

[@athosnogueira6755]

Neat! A few years ago I bought a locke bowler from the 50s that fit me at a fair for 25€, I just recently got it brushed up and it looks nice!

[@gentlemansgazette]

Harder hats like the bowler or top hat are much harder to fit because the same size can have many different shape. That's when the confirmateur comes into play. It can determine your headshape and help the hatter get the fit right.

[@bronovalter391]

I love bowlers and have wanted one for years. I've had no luck with vintage, since I have an unusual head shape, although I recently read you can steam then to shape. Fortunately I have found a local hatter who is actually within walking distance to my house. His primary market is Black Hat Orthodox Jews, but he also sells 2 levels of quality bowlers. This is a large market in my area, with 4 Orthodox Synagogs also in walking distance. I think a bowler is in my future very soon!

[@Leofwine]

I wear one of these every day.

[@stefanox8908]

And i don't even own one *Sad hatless noises*

[@Linusgump]

I have a Lock & Co extra stiff Coke hat. Every time I wear it I’m well dressed and I get far more comments on my hat than my suit and tie. A side note regarding construction I learned when my hat was fitted by Lock & Co, at least my hat (I don’t know about the normal Coke hats) is made with a shellack shell on the inside and the felt outer and silk liner are covering that. Also, my hat has a very unique way of adjusting the hatband. It’s a piece of leather about 1.5 inches tall with a string woven through the upper part. You pull the ends of the string together and tie a bow in it to make the hat fit more snug, or slightly higher on your head.

[@Cycling1867]

You say bowler hats aren't crushable but I own an original from the 1930s that was sold as "The Pliable" and that one actually is

[@JEDiTV]

Thank you Preston, and all involved at Gentlemen’s Gazette for an informative episode on one of my favorite hat styles. I have several in my collection - some vintage others custom made. I appreciate seeing other folks enjoying and wearing and Derby/Bowler hat. ~Jed 🤠

[@DerSerafin]

The bowler is objectively the most cool hat in existence!

[@Noahboy8]

I've got the Christy's woolfelt bowlerhat. I couldn't the furfelt one for a reasonable. However the woolfelt Christy bowler hat is a very good quality hat stil. It has a nice leather band inside, satin interior. And most imporyantly it has the typical classic bowler hat shape! :)

[@meptune]

We mustn't forget Cousin Itt. I always wear a Christys' London black bowler. I wear it with absolute confidence and I always get compliments. It works great with formal wear; but I also wear it to rock concerts and gigs (just jeans and black shirt). The bowler is a very "cool" hat.

[@sonnycorleone3251]

I guess like anything it's up to you if you look good in a bowler hat or not! Like other hats they come in different shape and sizes. Sammy Davis Jr. looked good in a bowler hat as a gangster in "Robin and the seven hoods." And I saw the old African american boxer Jack Johnson look good in his too. Have to get the right size for your head though or it will look silly! I wear and like the fedora hat better myself. But usually wear it only in Fall weather with a jacket and no suit underneath, as an Indiana Jones kind of look. I wear the fedora with the brim up sometimes too. Great channel for the well-dressed man.

[@WhimsicalEloquence]

Great video! You should consider doing a video/style review of the Jeeves and Wooster television programme!

[@saltymemesmith]

With Bowler hat comes great responsibility, never forget!

[@user-cd2wz4ut7d]

It's not easy to live as vintage(1890-1920) enthusiast in South Korea. I'm so grateful that I'm always learning from watching this channel's videos.

[@samsurimahmud4976]

At long last you've made up your promise that you have promised us a long time ago

[@davidchilds9590]

Photos of late-19th century railways generally show 'workers' wearing flat caps, but inspectors and 'middle managers' wore bowlers as a sign of their status. Top hats were worn by station masters of the biggest railway stations and the most senior managers, though there were many exceptions in working locations, where a variety of 'travelling hats' are often seen.

[@saiyajedi]

I own a vintage bowler hat from c. 90-100 years ago. I like it, but I have so few opportunities to wear it with my current wardrobe… it’s in such good shape, though, and fits me too well to just get rid of. But if anybody’s interested in a ventilated(!) summer bowler from the 1920s or ’30s…

[@alexanderklyneshea3594]

I found my self an antique bowler hat In impeccable condition. For 50 dollars on Facebook including the original box . But this is not my first bowler I have 4 others. It is written SUPER QUALITY. I am so happy and it fits me so well

[@Gold_Stadt]

For the love of the bowler hat - In memory of Prince Philip wearing a bowler hat and a trench coat. Pure class! 👍

[@jamesdowning1798]

Greetings from Australia. I have only recently joined your channel but I find your channel to be a joy to watch and I learn something with every video. One day (post COVID) my wife and I will travel to the US and I hope to meet some of the people who to contribute to each video; and perhaps get some personal advice on buying a suit. WELL DONE !!

[@duffman638]

LOL I love the bowler and honestly the first time I wore one was for my Alex Delarge costume for Halloween one year. After that it sat in a closet at parents house for almost 30yrs. Its a cheap hat but a genuine bowler. I bought it from a second hand store in the DFW area. It cleans up well enough for costumes but I would never pair it with an overcoat, which is the way I prefer to wear mine now. Usually pair it with my Crombie some nice Sta-Prest trousers and a nice pair of brogues.

[@MisterChris1978]

I have always loved the bowler; it may be my favorite hat. But, I have never gathered the confidence to wear for fear of it looking to costume-like.

[@guylewis7418]

I bet you could pull it off if you are wearing a suit. It would look great with a suit, a scarf, and an overcoat.

[@TheRefinedGentleman]

I really get that. I don't like wearing a bowler as much as I used to due to the unwanted attention it brings. I've had people shout "cool hat" from cars driving by, or people in the street yell "time-traveller!" I've had similar stuff happen with a boater and homburg too. On the other hand, a bowler hat with a Chesterfield coat and umbrella looks great.

[@janerkenbrack3373]

Henry The Hatter in Detroit sells good quality fur-felt bowlers.

[@dariel7001]

Top hats next please!

[@steamgent4592]

Definitely and the real ones not the felt ones🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂

[@isaiahwilliams7828]

They have an interesting history for sure, they used to be the go to "casual" or day hat for the urban middle class and upper classes, and initially came in many varieties. Apparently it is consideredto be the first "modern" hat. Upper society men would wear two sided cocked hats for the most formal evening events but eventually they faded out of existence outside of costume and uniforms.

[@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659]

@@isaiahwilliams7828 yes,when they go to country or having an informal events in city they whipped the top hat,the most formal are cocked hats,sometimes with feather and bows or tricolore

[@brittakriep2938]

Here in Germany, hats with feathers are also not so common, but you can see feathers at traditional huntsmans hats or at ,native dress( Trachten) hats.

[@thegentlemansstyle]

Bowler hats and preston? Two of my favourite things

[@inthezone4123]

I was always curious about the bowler. Great video!

[@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659]

Finally,thank you gg team,bowler for me has always an banker and bussinessman vibes,im waiting for a topper video,i love my bowler Its great for an bussiness outfit and always match stroller,good for you gg another excellent video!

[@MrBlair-ft2li]

I’m torn between my bowlers and my Homburgs. I have brown and black in both. I also have a brown and a grey Fedora so depends on where I’m going and how I’m feeling at the moment 😀

[@carltrotter7622]

And so, we meet again. Hello!

[@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659]

@@carltrotter7622 hello my dear chap,we are really striking the wrong fellows on internet huh about formal wear

[@carltrotter7622]

@@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 I've seen you on a lot of top hat videos. Out of interest, do you own one or, better yet, do you own a full white tie or morning ensemble? 😲

[@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659]

@@carltrotter7622 sadly not,but we follow each other on ig

[@keithattwood59]

I have my Lock & Co bowler I wear in lodge, love it!

[@slangislayer]

My son once made me attend to our chickens in a Bowler or "Melone" as we call it in Austria, simply because it looks nice.

[@thebullfrog9416]

I like bowler hats with a smaller crown and the Brim dipped down at the front and worn on a slight angle

[@robertdee648]

You rocked that look, Preston. Most dapper.

[@thefachriabdilah]

what a perfect time, just start to search fit bowler hat and gentlemen's gazette deliver great knowledge

[@AmyAnnetteHenion]

My dad gave me his vintage bowler hat years ago - it’s nice to get some ideas of how to wear it outside of Halloween costumes!

[@thepipejunkie8359]

I used to wear a wool felt bowler that my father bought for my 21st birthday. Sadly though, it fell victim to a hot car and now it doesn't fit right. I'm currently trying to figure out how to restore it to its original shape. This was a great video as always, gentlemen!

[@herberthill9984]

good luck buddy 👍

[@TheRefinedGentleman]

Steam will usually do the trick. The idea is to expose the hat to a steam source for long enough so the hat softens and becomes pliable. Let the hat sit for a few minutes so the steam dries. It should go back to its original shape. If not, you might need to resteam and adjust the shape manually. Alternatively, a hatter can reshape and reblock the hat if necessary

[@maximilienrobespierre7927]

I wear my bowler hat to work, pairing it with no jacket, just a cancas cotton work vest.

[@danteroza]

Excellent material, as always!

[@alexcsr6450]

14:40 Tip: If you really wan't a bowler hay but only can get a cheap one,you can use a kettle to modify the hay to you choice with bare hands,just be gentle with the hat and be careful with the steam

[@hindssm1044]

My bowler is my favorite hat to wear! Thanks for finally making a Bowler video!

[@tubekulose]

The bowler is also THE standard hat of the Viennese city coachmen ("Fiaker"). Best regards from Vienna, Austria!

[@bobosmodernlife]

Love bowler hats. Looking at purchasing one actually. 😊

[@treywest268]

Bowler hats also go well with bib overalls, work shoes, a white shirt, black bow tie or narrow black tie that is too short, and a black one-size-too-small sport coat. 😉

[@mrpeel3239]

Perfect accoutrement for strolling down Summit Avenue!

[@MJA5]

Fascinating history. It certainly wasn't a design made for sun shading, but in cooler outdoor environs it would be better than a bare noggin.

[@davidsiler5505]

I think tilting it at an angle/to a side it's called a specific tilt? The "Irish Tilt" perhaps?

[@dmax9946]

Personally I prefer fedoras or a broadbrim hat (if I need to wear a hat) but still a rather interesting video because I finally found out what my grandfather meant by Billycock.

[@TheAyeAye1]

My favorite hat that isn't a flat cap is the coachman. I know that's an odd one, but it would be great could touch on that style.

[@jacobsinger97]

Feels good here. This is a good channel. 🙂

[@O_Rei]

Just a small correction: Winston Churchill didn’t wear bowlers with his morning suit (at least not in that picture): he wore the similar-looking “Cambridge”, the exact description of which can be found on the site of Lock Hatters, which is also its creator :)

[@josephlarosa9810]

Great video and very informative. Just purchased a vintage bowler on ebay. It was made in England for Brooke's Brothers, N.Y.C circa 1930's. Will post picture when it arrives. Plan to wear it at grand daughters wedding. Keep up the good work.

[@fishwigy]

I was looking forward for a derby guide, thank you!

[@joshuamasonseight-bitbasta2451]

The Kangol Wool Bombin shown at 15:52 is the only hat that looks good on me. I have four... black, grey, navy and the lavender shown, but I only wear that last one in the spring. I'm thinking of recreating it in fur felt.

[@MarcMercier1971]

I bought a Scala Furlong for short money at a store, still wool and has a feather but obviously on the cheaper side than purchasing the $620 real one from Lock & Co.

[@Applecompuser]

I might be interested. But, Id like one that looks good to go with a suit and many I see remind me of something you may wear with a costume.

[@iansoutryer3189]

You see plenty of bowler wearing gentlemen around the 12th July. In Northern Ireland (in particular in the country) it is worn by members of the loyalist "Orange Order" during their parades.

[@jaybone2321]

Always wanted a bowler, thank you!

[@tessat338]

Riders of show jumpers, Dressage horses and Three Day Eventers sometimes wear reinforced Bowler hats while in riding gear.

[@scotmatheson1109]

I have 3: a Grey, a black, and a tan

[@andrewpayne6720]

the best part of this video was about hat making. You should do a video about this,

[@andrealicciardiello676]

Sorry for ignorance, but I'm Italian and some terminology is difficult for me, so, "fur felt" is the lapin?? In Italian there isn't a word for this particular felt like "feltro di lana" for wool felt, GRAZIE!!!! PS: your video are always useful!!!

[@Jedwbpm]

Stetson makes a very nice Fur Felt and wool Derby

[@claudiomalcherfilho4356]

Me and my fiancêe, Judy, yes she has the same name of the Zootopia main female character, and the same natural beautyful purple eyes, we are Pinkerton agents based in Aspen. Still today the biggest trademark of the Pinkerton National Detectives Agency after the silver badge is the Bowler hat.

[@MrBlair-ft2li]

Really? That’s your career? That’s very cool.

[@claudiomalcherfilho4356]

@@MrBlair-ft2li Thanks, and what a better place to wear fancy hats like Fedoras and Derbies than in one of the most luxuary places in the whole world? And in a profession that is most often associated to hats?

[@drip369]

I only wear knit hats, specifically Pittsburgh Penguins logo-ed, yet I shall enjoy the information from this video.

[@muggletoast2231]

My favorite style hat and part of my favorite Three Stooges joke Judge - “Kindly speak English and drop the vernacular” Curly - “Vernacular? That’s a derby!” Judge - “Drop the vernacular!” Curly - _drops derby_

[@danielmoran9902]

A note, if I may. You can 'tough it up' a bit and wear it with a Crombie overcoat, jeans, boots and braces, and a nice black or plain white Ben Sherman, or similar. Looks top notch, and you could wear the ensemble in a London pub, neck a pint, and still look spiffy. Best regards, X

[@MrCoursair77]

Wonderful and wonderful history as well! Bravo!

[@dillonjeffares4434]

I love classic hats but I really don’t feel that the bowler is timeless. You recently put a video out on ‘how to avoid looking like a costume’ and I feel the bowler hat screams ‘costume’ more than any other hat. Regardless of its history, the bowler hat became part of a very specific uniform for a very specific (upper) class of gentlemen working in the City of London, most probably as a banker, lawyer or clerk. By the 60s it was already considered archaic (as the frock coat was by the 30s) and today, nobody working in the City would be seen dead in one if they wanted to be taken seriously. This hat has a place for the dandy but in my opinion isn’t for a gentleman who works in an office environment. I think the fedora or even homburg are a much better option and more versatile.

[@ryanhunneshagen8161]

Completely agree. I don't think it can be pulled off. The right guy with the right outfit can still get away with a fedora or a flat cap but bowlers are just too dated.

[@ichimaru96]

They should focus more on how to make modern hats into more formal or "gentlemanly" styles, like flat caps could be seen as the more formal version of baseball caps for instance

[@Egilhelmson]

@@ichimaru96 Flat caps were golf hats, or New England boating caps. Never baseball.

[@ichimaru96]

@@Egilhelmson but what i mean is that styles have shifted and so the channel should potentially try and reflect that instead of trying to make bowler hats look good. Flat caps in Britain are seen as either the farmer hat or the only fools and horses market hat, but they're the closest thing to a formal hat nowadays that doesn't look too out of place in comparison to something like a top hat or boater

[@coburnburroughs4838]

Will you all make a video or website post about Savile Row. I think that would be very interesting and perfectly aligned with men’s formal wear/this channel. You could discuss history, various big named tailors, how much the average bespoke suit costs, what to expect, etc. I’m an avid fan, and would love to see this idea come to fruition! Thanks!

[@luisvalles4535]

I know there was a video made showing hat etiquette with regard to when where to don your hat... we need a video that demonstrates how to interact with people while wearing a hat. eg tipping, carrying etc

[@carltrotter7622]

Finally. It is here, I can die peacefully now.

[@barking.dog.productions1777]

I love this channel. I love to learn about new subjects. So, finding a subject that I am completely ignorant about is a rare and pleasant treat! =D

[@uncletom1971]

I've always wanted a bowler hat, ever since I was very young. I still want it, but where do I buy one of good quality today?

[@popeye3212]

About the retailers, what about 'Stetson', is that a good one?

[@carlosreyes5835]

Appreciate this

[@canadafree2087]

I only saw a Bowler hat and its box once at a vintage flea market, I regret not picking it up to see what size it was or which company made it.

[@Westyrulz]

The bowler was also worn by Alex and his Droogs in A Clockwork Orange.

[@TomReinerDE]

A bit embarrassing: Because of that hat „The Avengers“ German title was „Mit Schirm, Charme und Melone“. Melone (actually melon, like the fruit 🍉) is the German word for a bowler hat, so the whole thing translates into: „With Umbrella, Charme and Bowler Hat“. That was obviously to give the German audience a taste of British style. Remember, TV shows and movies get translated and overdubbed for German TV.

[@winstonwesker2975]

Great vid as always. The bowler on Preston does gives him quite the "Ed-Nygma" vibes.

[@05Rudey]

You guys look awesome.

[@20thcenturyboy85]

Dude, you look good in that Hat style! Great content!

[@20thcenturyboy85]

Thinking that you could even wear it super casual every day by wearing a vest & jeans.

[@josephcampese5347]

Great job Preston.

[@IamcountachYT]

The “I'll have 2 number nines, a number nine large, a number six with extra dip, one with cheese, and a large soda” hat

[@wooddawgz1504]

I'm looking for one to wear in the wind, instead of a cowboy hat here in west Texas.

[@filonin2]

The Onion is getting really good.

[@dcarbs2979]

I thought Luton, Bedfordshire was the hat centre of the world? I'll be on the lookout for a vintage Lock bowler though.