Getting An Old Lathe Running and General Maintenance South Bend, Logan, Craftsman

I go over several steps I always take when getting an old lathe running for the first time in several years after being in storage, or just not being used.
You can help support this channel in the following ways:
Precision Machine Shed Amazon Storefront:
www.amazon.com/shop/precisionmachineshed
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Patreon: / precisionmachineshed
One time contribution via PayPal:
www.paypal.com...
E-mail: [e-mail]
Buy Stickers Here: 1 for $2.00, 2 for $3.00:
www.paypal.com...
Let me know your thoughts!
Copyright 2015

[@keithbright]

Though a small thing, oddly enough the primary thing I learned watching your video is what what the tailstock dauber is. I recently bought a 1964 Logan Model 1925 11x24 in great shape and that little item had me puzzled. Now when someone points at it asking what is that, I don't have to say, "I have no clue". Thanks!

[@precisionmachineshed]

Glad it helped you out. I still remember way back when looking at that thing and wondering what the heck it was for. Glad you got something out of it! Thanks!

[@ClownWhisper]

one thing you should check before even buying an old piece of American Iron is the sway in the bed it's almost impossible to do unless you think a little bit. The best way I founded you it is take the tailstock off take some steel wool and oil and clean the bottom of the tail stock clean the bed up if it's gunked up badly at all. then put the tailstock back on and adjust it to just slide on the way you'll probably notice it's slides easy in the Middle where there is where on the bed and then tightens up on the extremes of each end. Unless you're willing to take the saddle off you can't check up close to the headstock but you get what I'm saying. almost anything that was used at all is going to have this symptom it's to what extent you have to get the feel for if you slide the tailstock to the middle and at that same adjustment you can rattle it back and forth in the bed has been wore out and you need to walk away if it's just a little easier to slide then it probably doesn't have a whole hell of a lot of wear and remember you're probably not going to work on anything that long anyway you're typically only working on a couple of inches. it's just a little trick that I've used when buying lathe

[@carlbaumgardt9465]

i have a 12 in 1909 davis and a 16 in prentis brothers 1895 and a shipley and where camel back brill press have fun

[@michaelbledsoe3646]

Does evapo rust have an effect on painted parts

[@georgespangler1517]

If they had spray grease like lucas red n tacky they would have used it,,,use it and save the gears and it really quiets it down,, and never listen to a man wearing rubber gloves working on machinery, lol

[@mehovic29]

If I were you, I will disassemble all parts, clean them, grind them from roast, paint them and then put back together, so machine will be as new. That is my suggestion, anyway, I like this video. Thank you for sharing knowledge.

[@precisionmachineshed]

+Dževad Mehović I did that with my South Bend HEAVY 10L along with getting the bed reground. Basically a complete and correct restoration. To do it right takes a lot of time which many people are not willing to do or don't have the time. If I had time ide restore every machine I own. Thanks for your comments.

[@mehovic29]

+Precision Machine Shed You welcome Sir, that is great video, also have you ever done any Index automatic lathe or Traub?

[@denisl2760]

Would restoring old machines like this be a viable business if you were to do it full time?

[@precisionmachineshed]

You would need to do quite a few of them and the main problem is finding machines to restore.

[@mehovic29]

Sometimes yes, it depends on market situation, what are demands on local market. Some machines are cheap to buy and even are faster then today CNC. Like INDEX curve automatic lathe, there is no electronic, only mechanic, it can produce millions of pieces.

[@gixer1109]

just spray it over with red diesel, leave to soak in and all the dirt will simply wipe off with no damage.

[@precisionmachineshed]

That would work, Kerosene also works well.

[@brandibartolomucci789]

Any diesel,red diesel is just dyed red so that the Taxman can tell that you haven't paid Road Use Tax on the fuel!

[@claudegratia9768]

Bonsoir je recherche une version française du manuel d'utilisation car je viens d'acheter le même tour merci d'avance

[@ThePugMonkey]

Thanks very much. I bought my first lathe today. It had been in a farm shed for a while so it needs some TLC. Unfortunately, the guy selling it, fired it up to show me it was working before I could get some fresh lubes on it but I'm sure it's ok. This video will help me a lot.

[@precisionmachineshed]

+ThePugMonkey I wouldn't be worried about it. running it for a min or two is usually not a big deal, but making sure everything has been cleaned and oiled before using it for an extended period of time would be a good idea. Good luck with your project and let me know if you have any questions.

[@ypaulbrown]

great tip not to use Purple Power or Simple Green......thanks....

[@precisionmachineshed]

No problem!

[@markkoons7488]

I liked your video and thank you for it but would like to add a couple things. When you're talking about the quick change mechanism and non-destructive solvents, you tentatively mentioned lacquer thinner. Oh, no! To preserve the remaining factory paint besides diesel fuel, mineral spirits is good stuff to use. A very light buffing with 4/0 steel wool and mineral spirits will remove old, blackened lubricants that have bonded with the enamel. Also, here on the high, windy prairie blow dirt infiltrates everywhere. The stuff isn't soft organic matter. It is essentially tiny chips of stone and it is very abrasive. A lot of the old lathes around here haven't been used in 40 years. Such machines need more detailed cleaning before they're lubed and put into service.

[@precisionmachineshed]

I use a lot of Diesel and WD-40 in the past couple years to clean these machines up.

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

yup sadley hard copies are being destroyed by libraries...now

[@precisionmachineshed]

That's unfortunate, Hopefully they are making it to a digital file! I once saw one for a home made metal lathe before I had enough money to buy one. I think it was a little cheaper back then though. By the time I would have gotten all the parts I didn't have, today it would have cost more than it would have been worth.

[@georgespangler1517]

I completely take them apart and clean and oil them,, only way to really know what you have. Years of oil and grease will build up and cause unnecessary wear so tear it down and do it right.

[@precisionmachineshed]

I agree. Most of the gears in the gear box are usually caked up along with all the nasty that gets into the apron assembly. Those are usually the worst.

[@fireblade639]

I BOUGHT A LOGAN 820 A YEAR AGO, THEN BOUGHT A CHINESE ULTRASONIC CLEANER, EVERY PART LIKE GEARS, NOBS, SCREW, GIBS, LEFT IN THE CLEANER FOR 20 MINUTES, CAME OUT LIKE NEW, NW MY LATHE RUN LIKE A CHAMP, ALMOST NEW... AND SAVED A LOT OF TIME.

[@precisionmachineshed]

Yeah, I've fully restored a couple lathes and a proper cleaning and oiling does wonders.

[@ronbianca1975]

Hey Spitfire! Would you get a lathe machine that had a run out of 5 thousandth 1' from the chuck? Keep up the good videos!

[@precisionmachineshed]

depends on what lathe it is. If it's a south bend, they can be adjusted. If it's a roller type bearing, NO.

[@miguelcastaneda7236]

theres a article in popular mechanics mid 1940s tune up lathe adjust gibs . alignment... adjust spindle...make new wipers..also 1943..believe its june shows how to make quick change box for logan

[@precisionmachineshed]

I know those old pop. Mechanics mags had some pretty interesting projects. Much more doing it yourself back then.

[@skiptracer8703]

You must have been spying on me and my Logan 820 10", hasn't run since 2000. I've been slowly going thru it and this video reminded me I should check the wipers and the motor bearings. Very informative video, thanks. Jim

[@precisionmachineshed]

+Skip Tracer Hey, yeah it just got this one in place and thought I would make a video quick. It doesn't take too long depending on how dirty it is, but worth the time to make sure everything is oiled and ready to run. A little maintenance goes a long way! As always, thanks for watching and commenting!

[@marknlilly]

I like your video. I'm considering buying a south Bend and I'm probably going to have to do a bunch of this stuff. do the micrometer dials on the saddle stay relatively calibrated? I know they're old, but can you rely on them for accurate measurements?

[@precisionmachineshed]

You will have to test them to double check how accurate they are with ether a caliper or micrometer after you cut a piece. Unless the screw or nut are extremely worn, they will usually be fairly close. My Heavy 10 and my 13" lathes both have really accurate measurements, but they are in pretty good shape, and it depends on how accurate you want to be. If I'm measuring in Tenth's it's not a problem, One hundredth's I will get within one or two then do final measuring with other measuring tools beyond that. Check out plenty of videos online about what to look for when buying a lathe, find one In decent shape, for a decent price and you'll be good.

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Well thought-out procedures to emulate. My Atlas is a bit newer (early 1950s) and uses a v belt to the head-stock. I really dreaded removing the entire gear shaft assembly to change the original belt, so I bought a Jones adjustable belt. It has segments that can be separated to put it in place. I have not used it yet so I have no info on how well and how long it will work. I may have to remove everything anyway as the little pin to select direct drive or the back gears does not remain engaged as it should. on direct drive.

[@precisionmachineshed]

Those belts work good, only thing to keep in mind is that they will stretch during the first couple hours of use so you will need to tighten everything up again once or twice. I've messed with some of those lathes, but can't recall how that is all held into place. In general, they are pretty simple machines. Thanks

[@actorzone856]

I think id make a proper cover for the main gears so junk wouldn't get in, a lot of lathes seem to be left to rust, while everyone is trying to find them to buy.

[@precisionmachineshed]

It has a cover, just not on there in the video. I oil the hell out of any lathe that I own if I use it or not.

[@bradsmith1046]

Thanks for the informative video. For newcomers to vintage lathes the format was most helpful, not overwhelming and you covered off the most important points in my view. Ill look forward to viewing your other other vids in days to come.

[@precisionmachineshed]

Hey Brad, Thanks for checking out this video and hopefully it helped you out. I have quite a few other videos on lathes and machining along with cars and other misc stuff. Hope you find more helpful hints in the others. Thanks for checking them out and let me know if you ever have any questions!

[@NSTRAPPERHUNTER]

Great info and thanks for sharing.

[@precisionmachineshed]

+NSTRAPPERHUNTER Thanks, It usually just takes a little time and care to get these guys up and running again! Thanks for watching and subscribing!

[@williamtoth6284]

thanks good info I have a old machine which needs a refurb not. a South bend . thanks again.

[@precisionmachineshed]

Glad it was a help

[@carlbaumgardt9465]

serpentine belt is a waste of time and money go to tractor supply they sell flat belts and clipper stuf have fun

[@precisionmachineshed]

Thanks, I'll check that out. I have since gotten a splicer, but never really found a good source for belt material.

[@carlbaumgardt9465]

@@precisionmachineshed THEY HIDE IT TOP SHELF

[@carlbaumgardt9465]

I SAW IT WAS A OLD VID HOPPEN I WAS NOT TO LATE

[@jeffryblackmon4846]

Very good info, well-described and taught. Thanks.

[@precisionmachineshed]

Much appreciated, thanks

[@aramirez8427]

Thanks...got an old Sheldon.......that needs some help

[@precisionmachineshed]

+A Ramirez Thanks for watching and good luck with your lathe. I've never owned a Sheldon, but have read that they can be nice lathes!

[@jimm2442]

Excellent video, thank you!

[@precisionmachineshed]

Thanks, Much appreciated.

[@mostafa201070]

I send pic a machine ok

[@precisionmachineshed]

+mostafa sharawy Sounds good. [e-mail] or I believe you can send me an email through KZbin.

[@mostafa201070]

Done

[@mostafa201070]

hi how are u i mostafa

[@precisionmachineshed]

+mostafa sharawy I'm good!

[@mostafa201070]

I have amchine for u

[@precisionmachineshed]

OK. What do you have?

[@73superglide62]

320

[@precisionmachineshed]

I picked up another craftsman Atlas lathe. Email me if you still needed some parts. [e-mail]

[@73superglide62]

Ok will do

[@mostafa201070]

Done

[@precisionmachineshed]

+mostafa sharawy nothing showed up yet.

[@mostafa201070]

Ok i in work now

[@smokinevangelist9202]

Hey. Ive got an Olney & Warren and cant get the chuck out of the quil. Any suggestions??

[@precisionmachineshed]

Yes, but would probably be easier to look up one of mr.petes videos on chuck removal. You can do it several ways including a strap wrench. Wood block to wedge the spindle gears, a cresent wrench on the jaws, a quick tap to try and jar it off.

[@ClownWhisper]

I've always used 90 weight in my Logan apron it works perfectly I think tubal-cain only spelled correctly suggested 90 weight

[@precisionmachineshed]

Yeah, those older lathes are pretty durable. Logan and South Bend specs out a much lighter weight oil for that purpose. I think closer to a 20-30 weight oil. I use whatever they call for. Most of it is mobile DTE or Iso 20 I think

[@ClownWhisper]

Precision Machine Shed I actually just copied what Mr Pete was talking about he uses straight 90 weight so I grab some 80 90 and started using it. Perhaps I shouldn't I don't know it seems to work perfectly I run the piss out of it too