Getting Crushed in The Most Elite and Exclusive Climbing Wall

This week we travel to Sheffield for the chance to visit the world famous 'School Room'. Louis is joined by humble crusher Sam Prior for a tour of the gym and its' infamous blocs. Thanks to Ben Moon for allowing us to film and for Sam for joining us!
Credit goes to ‪@moonclimbingofficial‬ and ‪@WEDGECLIMBING‬ for a few featured clips.
00:00 Title Sequence
00:32 Introduction
01:51 Moon Benchmarks
05:10 Tour
07:53 School Girl 7C+
08:53 Perky Pinky 8B
11:26 Stuey Five Bellies 8A
13:09 Basic Ben 7C
14:17 Podcast Chat
16:11 Outro
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[@LetalisLatrodectus]

The most amazing thing about this video is that they got the moonboard app working

[@badbunnyTUBE]

We have a gym in side a bomb shelter here in Finland in a city called Kauniainen that is ~35 years old. We set our own routes one to two times a year and a lot of the holds are +20 years old. The same "hard climbing" mind set is very pressent as well. +90% of the holds are just really hard because of the lack of texture. This, however, makes for brilliant training. Your skin doesn't wear out and you have to try hard and focus on every climb. If you're ever planning on visiting come have a sesh :)

[@crescentfuze]

wo, that's cool. Love old school walls

[@anto3254]

You've gotta be kidding me there's been a climbing wall there this entire time?? Where in the shelter is it?

[@badbunnyTUBE]

@@anto3254 löytyy fb sivu ja yhteystiedot kun hakee kauniaisten kiipeilyseura :)

[@Jackwithoneeye]

Awesome to see Sam in the flesh not just a disembodied voice.

[@LoveAndClimbing]

4:10 Louis is one of us! The ones who can't stick the f***ing start feet on the Moonboard!

[@dandantrash]

The surprise collab we never knew we wanted! Great episode, I'm off to look at house prices in Sheffield...

[@MrWhoabuddy]

grades obviously not equivalent to what they used to be if the holds are worn out from years of use. plastic oxidizes over time and with chalk/shoe gunk, im sure these routes are much harder than when moon and moffit were doing them.

[@hetistijmen]

Something else to keep in mind is that when you've been climbing on the same board for a long time you know the holds and the angle so well they feel easier than they are. The hardest problems I've done are probably on my home wall but because I'm so used to grabbing the holds here a lot of micro beta is just intuitive and I don't even notice some of the small details in my climbing. I can only imagine how many bits of knowledge the OG's have as far as "that bit of wood grain is the best for friction" or "this hold has a hidden spot for your thumb" is concerned. Also having a space that your body recognises as a place to try hard can make as big a difference as conditions I think.

[@edwardjons8684]

Keep fooling yourself. Ben and Jerry are both shorter than this guy too, so the reaches were really insane.

[@Miles26545]

@@hetistijmenfor sure on the last part; that’s why I have a corner in my house that I only do homework in. Homework corner = try hard, only focus on homework

[@crescentfuze]

I don't disagree with you, but I don't think they were ever "at grade" even when they were established. At the time, the hardest outside was around 8B and not only were grades at the school room graded with 8B as sort of the roof numerically (not actually though in difficulty), but board climbing and the school room itself was pretty known for being tough. Take Milk It for example, it still gets 8B like Pinky Perky and the other 8Bs on the board, but it's infamous for being at least 8B+ and probably even 8C.

[@user-yc4ud2pk2v]

I speak native german and had no clue what u said well there was a swing in it

[@MiguelClimbs]

This was fun to watch. Thanks guys!

[@lucygraham12]

Once again super encouraged by your example of climbing mentality and attitude. You were so happy just to be climbing the awesome problems rather than being focused on flashing them all. Also great heads up on the podcast will definitely give it a listen 👌

[@tommeyer3871]

Big fan of the careless talk podcast (and your guest appearance there), it‘s weird to SEE something while hearing this familiar voice 😂

[@mahlercarranca1776]

Awesome video such a great host Absolutely love the music selection elegant and viby

[@eSKAone-]

Linus and the oscillating quarz 💟🌌☮️

[@tomas_ukulele6703]

Do you prepare your questions beforehand? I love seeing videos where you collab with other climbers/friends bc not only do you climb strong, but every question you ask is very natural and also very engaging!

[@nilsmorozs8428]

Simulation Sam (or is it Humanoid Howard?) looks very realistic! Great to see the man behind the voice 😀

[@paulmitchell5349]

Rumour has it that Malcolm Smith found some of the original 7cs too easy so did them with a weight belt on.

[@ashhodson2063]

Try the Wave at Foundry! Whole set in one session and i will literally eat cereal out of a strangers climbing shoe.

[@theFargoClimber]

Dream gym!

[@aaq5461]

Been trying to get into that gym for to long… one day man, one day…

[@boogaloo4640]

11:26 Did Stuey Five Bellies get downgraded? It was 8A+/V12 in the Magnus video

[@flip_lange]

I‘m a simple guy, I see Sam, I click 😅

[@ubbychubbs4238]

YYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEESSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!

[@rylko98]

what are those wireless mics you're using in this video?

[@Paulosaurus]

I did understand Schwing kurz or something like that when you were trying to pronounce the German and that means short swinging or something like that

[@withakiwiontop]

it's actually Schwingquarz, it's an oscillating quartz crystal in English. Though you're right, it's a play on words with schwingen / swinging :)

[@itsfinn2183]

Sam makes v10 look too easy 😂

[@Bobonautti]

I want to see you on a minimoonboard. That would be interesting.

[@jonnes__4657]

🗽 German... I didn't understand a word... I'm native speaker. 😁 "Schwingquarz" means piezoelectric crystal. .

[@BigBeakD20]

Song at the beginning please!

[@acier1056]

come to sheffield more lou dog !!!

[@brandoncobbins7624]

I thought it was called a moon board because it taught you to defy gravity....

[@kutilkol]

Magnus did episode, so here we are. #ctrl+c #ctrl+v

[@SagemanYT]

My birthday is today🎉❤

[@CatalystClimbing]

Aaaaaaaye let’s go happy bday!

[@SagemanYT]

Thx

[@neensever]

soz but what is the name of the podcast?

[@designerbro7260]

Careless talk

[@TesterAnimal1]

@@designerbro7260or Torque?

[@salomonkary]

Those German boulders had some random names lol

[@TheCadocas]

What is the name of Sam's Podcast?

[@dannythwaites1318]

Careless talk climbing podcast

[@DanielDobbelstein]

You did good on the german. But the name is just awkward .Schwingquarz isnt common at all, linus isnt a common name, "undder" is missing a space because thats two words (und - and, der - male the). So no one can understand it although you didnt quite ok ;-)

[@middle-agedclimber]

from now on the voice has a face ;)

[@shellytraverse]

I'm 😬😳at the title alone - 'schoolgirl' - asides, obv great climbing!!!

[@user-wc9xo1nm9s]

Second 😅

[@Mjeezy-zb7sg]

It is ballerstan like Michael Ballack

[@edwardjons8684]

I’m pretty sure Ben moon was not the first to create a uniform board like this. I was climbing pretty well in the 90s and recall training on several boards with very uniform, symetrical holds, for example, already before Ben was doing his systems thing - we called them system boards.

[@jackandrewbouldering8905]

Wasn’t the moonboard the first international standardised board though? Every set is identical across the globe and people can create and try anybody’s problems & create a consensus around grades. Surely in the 90s there is no way that every single training board was identical.

[@serratos97]

First!!!

[@user-wc9xo1nm9s]

Haha well done

[@fckcptlsm]

sorry guys that aint german

[@CatalystClimbing]

😂😂 really? We thought we were off but not different language off…

[@G.Giorgio]

Yes the second one is German for sure! It is loosely translated to: Linus and the swing-quartz. The first one I think is supposed to be a combination between "Baller" ie slang for going hard and "Stan" making it a country: Kasachstan > ballerstan. Not sure about the second one tho

[@G.Giorgio]

I mean not sure about the first

[@fckcptlsm]

@@G.Giorgio if it said 'und der' maybe but the way it was written 'undder' might be another germanic language for under or something like that. i mean i couldn't decypher these odd names 💁‍♂️

[@G.Giorgio]

@@fckcptlsm hm maybe you are right. I suspected undder was spelled together due to a character limit

[@jamesblace5761]

Where is Magnus?

[@xAlLeNt21]

love ur vids dude, but u need to let ur "guests" talk and cut down on ur own talking/interrupting

[@Fred-oz3tw]

your pronounciation was okay. i will give you a B minus :) but very hard words to prounounce right

[@tommeyer3871]

Big fan of the careless talk podcast (and your guest appearance there), it‘s weird to SEE something while hearing this familiar voice 😂