Getting Dressed in Early 17th Century Historical Clothing: 1600-1625

The first twenty or so years of the 17th century are an underrepresented period of fashion among historical costumers today, but one that I think deserves more love and attention! It’s a curious transition period between what we think of as Renaissance or Elizabethan styles and those from later in the 17th century, and you see garments from the 16th century still being worn in these early decades along with newer style garments. It’s also the period when separate boned bodices or bodies start to become more common for non-elite women as opposed to bodices stiffened with layers of fabric with attached skirts.These boned bodies were the ancestors of 18th century stays and 19th century corsets.
We’ll look at the clothing of a working class common woman and a prosperous middle class woman in her Sunday or holiday best.
I used patterns from The Tudor Tailor and modified them. The russet wool for the waistcoat is also from them: www.etsy.com/shop/TheTudorTai...
The bays wool is from Kochan and Phillips: historicaltextiles.com/
Shoes are from American Duchess but are no longer in production.
Music:
Master of the Feast by Kevin MacLeod
Link: filmmusic.io/song/4026-master...
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license
Folk Round by Kevin MacLeod
Link: incompetech.filmmusic.io/song...
License: filmmusic.io/standard-license

[@kattkatt744]

I feel like the whole of the 17th century is underrepresented in historical costuming. You get some people dipping their toes in with 1660s dress or maybe a 1690s mantua, but the century was so much more than that, so varied in silhouette, particularly the transition and strange off shots happening in the 1610s to the 1640s before things settle more down for the rest of the century. Really love you putting some focus on the more unloved times of this century!

[@mastersnet18]

Yea it’s definitely one of the most ignored eras on fashion history. I’m not sure why because a lot of the fashions are beautiful to me.

[@habituscraeftig]

I'm gearing up for a 1630s smooth-faced stays project, and there's really not a lot out there, in terms of dedicated resources. Luckily, V&A published a two-book set on "Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns," which includes good information on construction, or I'd be stuck winging it with patterns from Janet Arnold and Nora Waugh (which is beyond my comfort zone, as a beginning-level sewist)

[@livingdeadgirl5691]

Yeah, the only movies that represent early 1600s that come to my mind are VVitch, Silence and Tulip fever, which is a shame cuz film makers can make multiple movies on the themes of witch burnings in Europe, the 30 years war, the pilgrims in Americas ect...

[@mrsnezbit2219]

Are you in USA? Here in EU there are plenty of 30 years war reenactors, here are the late 1600 that are not common, like 1670-90, never seen represented exept from venice Carnevale hahah

[@reneestarling9525]

The word "petticoat" makes a lot more sense when you have the attached upper part!

[@saraquill]

I know stays contribute a lot to period posture. You donning the ruff shows me neckwear was another influence to the upright look.

[@sarah-phillips]

My dad always said “black is the new black” as his fashion advise. I love learning the “every day” history of regular people. And yes, I agree - context is so important to remember and learn!

[@m.g.4446]

I love that you made this video! You're right, this period is underrepresented in costuming but it just looks so sharp

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you! It really is!

[@alejandramoreno6625]

as a Mexican, I am super interested in this century, as it is the golden age of the Baroque. But the only thing we see is the dress of the Spanish court, which was insane. I am so curious to know how regular people dressed.

[@trenae77]

You're buttoning and I hear Isabella of Prior Attire sigh "More buttons" :-D Honestly, clothing historians are so delightfully fascinating to me! The amount of research you put not only into making your attire accurate in appearance, but also exploring how it functions in day to day activities is impressive and a pleasure to watch! Please keep up the good work.

[@nawabwajidalishahawadh1349]

I don't know how to phrase it, but the historical clothing you make feels so real.

[@a.munroe]

I adore the 17th century silhouette, the ruff makes me anxious tho. So many ways I would screw it up.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Hopefully my ruff video will help dispel some fears! They're not so bad!

[@Rhaifha]

Interesting stuff as per usual! I've always disliked the Dutch protestant 17th century clothing, with the black and the starched collars, but you do make it interesting! You bring up a valid point that the sober black of that period was actually a show of wealth. But I guess I should've seen that from the abundant pearls on the ladies in portraiture from that period, haha.

[@Rhaifha]

Also, that collar looks *very* uncomfortable? But then again, I don't like anything touching my neck. Do you find it uncomfortable?

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Yes, black makes for great contrast to set off pearls and jewelry! I don't find ruffs uncomfortable, but I don't mind things around my neck. They're still pretty flexible so it doesn't inhibit movement, just reminds you to keep your chin up.

[@healinggrounds19]

I had to wear one of those riffs like the one you are wearing in the second garment for a period film. It made me sweat so much! I don't know why. The costume itself was fine but as soon as the ruff was applied, I would sweat like it was raining! LOL. I can't do anything around my neck like a ruff, I have learned.

[@tabletop.will.phillips]

@@Rhaifha I frequently wear these big ruff collars in reenactment/SCA contexts, and I've never found them to be annoying. It's the figure-eight style sleeve cuffs that are annoying - they totally get in the way doing anything.

[@mrsnezbit2219]

I think half europe also disliked protestants.. hahhaah

[@h.b.4058]

Thank you so much for the contextual acknowledgement. It struck me that this might have been one of the periods in which, apart from pants versus skirts, women's and men's fashions were much less divergent. Is this true? Do you think it can be attributed to anything other than attempting to live up to a more Puritanical ideal? Beautiful work, as always.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you! I do agree that you see a lot of similarities in women's and men's fashions during this period. But at least one Puritan writer in the 1580s actually hated when women's styles copied men's and made them look "mannish"!

[@beccam9854]

@@TheCoutureCourtesan haha oh boy ever the complaints of "mannish" women. tale as old as tiiiiime. sorry ye old buddy but this mannish woman gets shit DONE

[@kristenk5754]

The petticoat attached by the aglets is so pretty looking. I think I'm going to try that for my next fantasy outfit :o

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Yes, you should! Isn't it lovely?

[@MizzKittyBichon]

Even to this day, the color black has connotations of sophistication, elegance, and wealth. Tuxedos and "the little black dress" are prime examples of this.

[@carolyng5235]

Thank you for another brilliant installment in your series of working and middle class womens' clothing videos! You continue to fill a large void in historical costuming. Well done!

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you so much!

[@LaviniaDeMortalium]

Glad this span of time is receiving some much-deserved attention. The clothing you've showcased is absolutely beautiful!

[@m.maclellan7147]

That 'Upper class' high buttoned bodies reminded me SO much of the cassocks that "Brothers" wore. My Uncle was one for years before he left the order. Appeals to my Gothic soul ! Can't wait for the collar video.

[@akechijubeimitsuhide]

Tiny buttons, the enemy for many centuries :D Very beautiful and unique styles! The working class look reminds me of Brueghel paintings.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you very much!

[@making.history]

Smashed that like button so fast for this rare 17th century content. Thanks!

[@making.history]

Also that straw hat is beautiful!

[@making.history]

Also, I'm so excited for this ruff video. Ok, I'm done.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Yay! Another 17th c fan!

[@annadonahue5752]

this video did indeed pique my interest in the costumes of this era! I think the geometric shapes of the garments are really striking and elegant in a way, and the texture on your all-black gown makes it something super special. from the minimal knowledge I have of the early 1600s, it seems like this period had a lot of rapid and often destructive changes, not only the colonization and slavery in the Americas but in Europe as well with religious conflicts. you've got me thinking about how those cultural contexts and the attitudes that arose from them could be reflected in the dress of the time!

[@ubertuber3d]

This period is one of the cusps of European fashion history, with only the fifteenth century seriously rivaling it IMO. Victorian menswear sometimes gets flak for its drabness but you'll never see the same said of it in this era for either sex because the dark colors were done so tastefully without infringing on the loveliness of the attire, really resplendent stuff.

[@stephaniemiller5049]

For the past year, I've really been interested in 17th century dress and I want to learn more. So glad to see you share this!

[@mikeymoody05]

thank you do much for this video. I am working on a scarlet letter costume and have been unable to find videos on middle class clothing of the early 17th century. this really helped me to have a visual example.

[@beccitatefitzjohn7804]

In love with the silhouette of the waistcoat, and with the early 17th Century in general. Thank you for making this, from an Early Modernist!

[@cadileigh9948]

Thank you Ms Bullat .Good to see another sober and sensible presentation as they make information much easier to absorb. There is a time and a place for being trivial and silly but I do like facts and frivol in seperate baskets.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you! I'm so glad you enjoy them!

[@makeda6530]

That petticoat is a look though... **tentatively adds onto monstrous to sew list in place of kirtle**. Bless you for another informative and stylish video. ( ⑉¯ ꇴ ¯⑉ )

[@toulousegoose1150]

Thank you for this video! I usually have to do 19th and 20th century for work, but this is my favorite era to sew clothing for! I usually go to events in 16-teens/early 1620's in honor of the Merrymount community. Today it's Quincy, MA.

[@Weegie_skin_head_93]

Wow, stunning work *chefs kiss. You had some patience with all those lacings, hooks and buttons!

[@crissykloth3721]

You never should fear any competencia regarding your shape or wonderful cloths. What a smart equipment for all days? I would appreciate some of the details. So I am looking forward to catching the video to which you have made references. Oh thank you so much, I like it!!!! Crissy

[@shortsweettoo]

Wonderful work. Thanks for sharing.

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you!

[@kzisnbkosplay3346]

I love these transitional styles! It's interesting how much overlap there is between men and women in this period! Thank you for providing context as well.

[@anniehosking2408]

Another fascinating video. Thank you! I'm looking forward to seeing how to make a ruff.

[@gwengottlieb8501]

Well done! So thorough!

[@anaisabelsantos4661]

I'ts so true, I can't remember the last time I saw someone in an early 17th century decent outfit.

[@visasv.429]

I love Orlando’s whimsical interpretation of this eras fashion in its movie

[@annebennett313]

I have been waiting for a video to come out about this time period for so long!! Thank you for providing one and doing such a wonderful job. Absolutely adore this period's fashion. Beautiful work.

[@FayeSterling]

This is horrifically tempting to do something more modern than 1530. Both of these outfits are beautiful, and I especially love the bodied petticoat you had for the working class garment!

[@aenorist2431]

Very peculiar style, had not seen that in video so far. Thanks for going to all that length, very informative!

[@beachgirl1947]

I love these videos; so beautifully produced. What amazes me is how much pinning is done !

[@sarahsherman-vandeventer4682]

This is the next best thing to seeing you in person. I learn something new with every rewatch. Your knowledge and skills are second to none!

[@TreScotts1Fan]

As always, well researched, beautifully made. Carry on.

[@moonargentum]

It's great to see both working and middle class styles, and they are both so elegant! Thank you for a lovely video as always :)

[@analunavelarde]

Everything looks gorgeous! I love the gray bodies.

[@Mirando67]

Thanks. Great work!

[@AshLG]

I've been waiting to watch this until I came back from holiday and it was entirely worth it. What an interesting and elegant period of dress!

[@derekmoore1387]

These videos are invaluable for concept artists trying to understand clothing more thoroughly. Thank you! You wouldn’t happen to know of someone who does videos like yours about men’s historical clothing, would you?

[@Julia-gy9bd]

I would like to clarify; When you mentioned the violent removal of indigenous people, not everyone in this time period treated the indigenous people in this way. Some colonies were very respectful to the indigenous and bought the land. A great contrast of two different types of settlers is the Plymouth Colony versus the Jamestown Colony. Great video by the way!

[@elizabethabbott9177]

I really enjoyed your video. I live in a a mediaeval hall house which has 'modern' chimneys of 1650. I am fascinated by the clothing worn by the past inhabitants of our farmhouse and the need for warmth and practical use on the farm. Thanks.❤

[@pilotswife06]

I have an old book called The Real Mother Goose and some of the illustrations in it feature clothing from this era!! I love it!! (It’s the 1958 edition, it’s such a cool book, illustrations by Blanche Fisher Wright)

[@rorygilmore2470]

so simple, yet so chic 😍

[@jellydarling1008]

Really useful info! Thank you!

[@stace0712]

Great video, as always! I'm really happy to see your channel growing, you deserve it!

[@zoopothecary]

Your channel is amazing! I just stumbled across it yesterday and I'm sad there isn't more. Beautiful organization and filming, and I really appreciate the interpolated art depicting contemporary details.

[@LualaDy]

thanks for the wonderful video! I really love the style from this period, and having an outfit like this is on my dream list! Now I have a better idea on how to approach it ^^

[@malakaragua702]

Love this channel 👍 clothes seem much more complicated but also more wonderful back then.

[@omaeve]

I love this. I can’t wait to make the ruff. I made a lot of clothes for Williamsburg and for the Civil War reenactment when I was young I also did a lot of German clothing for the Shenandoah valley of Virginia. I guess you can tell. I’m from Virginia. I live in front Royal.

[@toadhalltea122]

Lovely as always!!! I adore that high-bodied gown (just got some cinnamon wool flannel from B&T this week for one of my own!!). And thank you for that context reminder at the end.

[@MonkeyMelVG]

The cream/undyed wool jacket is gorgeous.

[@janetkizer5956]

I'm fascinated by this period of fashion. Probably because it's covered so little in movies and so on.

[@stephenede-borrett1452]

Really excellent - thankyou

[@artamarti176]

Awesome video!

[@blktauna]

beautiful work. just beautiful.

[@carriescostumescrochet]

This was a nice video to watch while crocheting. Thanks.

[@kittfrances]

Great video Samantha, and yeah this period is so sadly neglected! Can’t wait for the ruff video, and also I would love a tutorial for those hats too, if you made them!

[@piatc4813]

It's amazing how much work you put into your garments! I always love learning about dress from periods I usually don't pay too much attention to. Thank you 😊

[@darknessfierce4209]

wishing i could order the working class outfit, so practical- thanks for making the video!

[@gwengottlieb8501]

I love this.

[@nachtmerrie1616]

I love your video!

[@penelope-oe2vr]

One of my favorite clothing periods. Simple.

[@angeliccow]

amazing work as usual, i very much love the hats of the period, I am a sucker for a "silly hat"

[@caitlinrobertson3780]

That partlet is so neat and pretty I love it

[@bentonlikescommas]

Stunning. I love that the high bodied bodice is constructed like a doublet. It's fashionable crossovers like this and 18th century riding habits that show there is a lot of grey area in periods with highly gendered clothing.

[@mimimatasar3699]

Fabulous

[@Meandsushiroll]

I appreciate you pointing out the historical context of slavery

[@natashanese]

Thanks so much for this video! I am looking for some tips for an Anne Hutchinson Puritan style dress for a formal summer look in the 1630’s. Any tips or resources you could recommend?

[@feelingkevinly]

17th century, represent!!!

[@sarahmwalsh]

What a terrific video! I was trying to figure out if there were any pads or supports on the hips and under the skirts, and it didn't look like there were - but the little peplum of the natural wool with the gores had so much buoyancy and lift! And the skirts of the upper class gown definitely swooped up a bit before falling to the floor. Is that really just the fabrics and the shaping from cartridge pleats and gores??

[@timebomb4562]

when you mention common people it got the song common people by pulp stuck in my head

[@birdandcatlover5597]

"Mostly black in my everyday life" same. Well, getting there. I need to make my own clothes, and am only now getting close to my adult height, so my wardrobe is currently thrifted mismatches. I prefer all black though.

[@madelinemcswain2563]

This is amazing! I am currently making a kirtle in inspiration from your Anne Boleyn video so this is great for another option :) I was curious if this is a shorter version of Elizabeth's effigy stays?! or if not did you use a particular pattern :) I tend to live out of my PoF7!

[@NothingReallyMatters08]

I love the black jacket

[@elyssadougherty8255]

This is my favorite time period for costuming and your outfits are so lovely. Where do you source your hats?

[@newtkincaid5661]

Great Video. Were any undergarments worn under the linen smock? If not when did undergarments become a thing? Thank you in advance.

[@DipityS]

Oh - what a shame those pretty red shiny bows at the waist were hidden -by that remarkable beautiful black dress I'll admit - but I do love a bow - thank you that was very interesting.

[@billy123174]

Nice

[@daydr3ambeliever]

Wow! You look amazing. Was it all hand stitched?

[@annagararsdottir5432]

Love the video! What music did you use?

[@jeanetterule5420]

Inspiring 👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️👍

[@Emperatriz_Valentina]

We Stan this woman!

[@previewqueen]

I would be interested to know how exactly you altered the Tudor Tailor patterns to create these looks as I would interested in trying to recreate looks from this era.

[@louiseogden1296]

I'm not as busty as clothing manufacturers think I should be given my torso size. For some tops, particularly wrap ones, a partlet would be very useful (I just wear a singlet underneath).

[@bohemiansusan2897]

I found this to be interesting. I'm interested in clothing that is rebellious in a restrained way of all time periods.

[@SIC647]

It is very interesting to see your upper middle class person. In Denmark the official garment of ministers in the state Lutheran church wear, is almost exactly that: A long black outer wool coat/gown with starched ruffs and white cuffs. It was initially just a nice version of what regular well-off people wore at the time, but then it hasn't changed for close to 500 years.

[@emmamartin6719]

How do you keep hats on your head without pins? I can never manage it when I’m wearing a hair covering!

[@RevWarRev]

So just one petticoat? And the purse at her waist - women weren't yet using 1 or 2 pockets tied at the waist under/between the petticoats? Great video!

[@dis2666]

Your skill at making garments is wonderful to see. Impeccable

[@meghanmcgowan7748]

I've always been curious, with aprons from this time period why do they not stitch the corners to the waistband? I get that not gathering it saves labor and makes it easier to wash, but why not just sew the whole rectangle down with no gathering?

[@VioletLady07]

It's because of you stitch the whole rectangle down, and then you tie the apron around your waist, you get a weird bunching effect. It's extremely unflattering (ask me how I know😉). The wider the rectangle, the bigger the bunches. Leaving the corners free looks nicer, and also allows you better freedom of movement.

[@meghanmcgowan7748]

@@VioletLady07 Ah that does make sense

[@kimberlyperrotis8962]

Do you know if any if the wool garments could be washed? I think it might have been possible if the wool fabrics were pre-shrunk before cutting and sewing, but I don’t know if this was actually done.

[@TeklaFrancis]

Did you make the black tall hat or did you get it somewhere? Very tempted to make/get one of my own.

[@JessicaFleur01]

Its surprisingly charming & elegant. Is the hat fixed with a hat pin?

[@TheCoutureCourtesan]

Thank you! The hat is large enough to sit and stay comfortably on my head by itself.

[@animequeen78]

Also, heeled shoes facilitated keeping your feet in the stirrups when riding horseback.