Getting Stuck in to the Ruston Saved from Scrap! - The Locomotive Diaries Episode 2

[@Retirement_Life]

Lawrie, having worked on the various rolling stock in that yard for the past couple of years, I really must recommend that your team wear eye protection when using an air line or really, when there is any chance of flying particles! You on,y lose your eyesight once!

[@lmm]

Yes that's wise

[@MrDeeej86]

I saw a safety squint ;)

[@mechanicalmoron2251]

and a gard on that angle grinder student be using it like that. also get the 1mm slitting disks cut thrue things faster just dont twist them. in other news dont get disheartened by the engine you dont know the condition if it fully until you take the heads off and clean it up. i have had mutch worse running. shame i coundent see when the working days where overwise i could of helped you with it.@@lmm

[@mattponcini3037]

I’ve had the misfortune of having a chunk of rust fly into my eye and had to drive 2 hours to get to a medical centre to get it out. With a very scratched eyeball causing a lot of pain and needing eye drops to numb my eye for a few days, I can agree with wearing goggles or at the least, safety glasses working on anything. I’m not sure if you have them over in the UK but in Australia we have a brand of glasses called safety style, they look like regular sun glasses but are actually polarised safety glasses. They also make them in clear lenses too. I’ve been wearing them now for 2 years and it’s a subconscious thing to just put them on now whenever I get out of the truck for work. It’s saved my eyes many times since. Would recommend investing in a stylish pair to suit your style.

[@callsignapollo_]

​@@mattponcini3037100% agree with the safety-stylish glasses. Have had prescription shades with a foam gasket for years and were always the go-to for a sunny day, riding, or some grinding work. Convinced me to get a non-tinted pair for on the job, and while they may not be the coolest looking, nothing sexier than staying safe lol

[@ptonpc]

For morale reasons, if you take a bit off and it looks okay (No major repairs) clean it up and paint it as soon as you reasonably can. Even if it's spray undercoat and topcoat. Mark it so you know where it comes from then store it. When you get too disheartened, you can look at the list of bits that are 'ready' to go back on.

[@DaiElsan]

Lawrie, if you have space, a total ground up strip and rebuild. With that amount of water and rust on the internals, having the engine and gearbox out will give better access both for the frame and mechanical components.

[@lmm]

Stay tuned!

[@SteamboatWilley]

"I'm making it worse!" Early stage restoration in a nutshell.

[@bentullett6068]

Love the intro to this series. Laughed at the part when it said it was saved by someone with a serious problem. 😂

[@kymvalleygardensdesign5350]

Nice update on Rusty, Hmm, having worked on plenty of rust buckets it might be advisable to take the whole thing apart including the engine and gearbox so that you can get to the frames etc. The heads really need to come off so that you can see if the rings are stuck in the pistons.

[@lmm]

Stay tuned!

[@Agsotro]

Been working on a BR Class 03 (11103) for a month now myself after watching your first video on this, went and volunteered at Mangapps, I can attest it’s the most fun and also most physically demanding mechanic work I’ve done. We just got all the body panels finished and on the loco she runs and drives but needs some electrical and Cab internal TLC. Plus some paint! Can’t wait to see more of this little chug box, well worth the dono.

[@lmm]

Oh that's awesome! Glad you've got involved. Good set up at Mangapps

[@Agsotro]

@@lmm it’s been a pleasure so far. it’s the place I used to go to when I was a kid, it’s all very friendly and a seperate group of engineers are also working on a tank engine out back that I don’t know the class or name of. They got the boiler back on the frame last week and it’s going pretty well by the sounds of things.

[@davidhughes211]

Great to see these machines having a 2nd life with younger lads, keep up the good work also great to sponsor the Bristol team👍

[@Tom-Lahaye]

That engine is really in a dire condition, we may hope that everything frees up and that critical surfaces are not too damaged by rust. It did look like this engine has a tunnel crank case, and is very substantial built for something delivering 48hp. Surely high torque at very low rpm.

[@johnathanedwards9054]

Speaking from experience here; if you want to free the valves up, you can take a brass mallet and tap on the side of the rockers with the valves. Doing so will help to break up the rust and make it easier to turn over later. Best of luck to you 😊😊😊

[@otm646]

I've found electrolysis invaluable for these types of jobs. Your only limiting factor is how big of a tank you can find or make. I've done everything from little buttons to full on machine tools. Plus the process itself is all but free.

[@caramelldansen2204]

Interesting proposal!! 😊

[@otm646]

@@caramelldansen2204 They can literally fill the block, install an anode which is electrically isolated from the block itself and de-rust the entire internals of the engine. Some areas that are shadowed aren't going to be perfect, but you'll get the vast majority. You would have to fully degrease the engine first, they went the wrong way spraying oil but that's not impossible.

[@caramelldansen2204]

@@otm646 You sound almost like you've done it before!

[@larx4074]

Amazing that the engine is such good condition after decades out in the wilderness..............

[@lmm]

Some bits are. Some are less... But you'll see

[@ARandomEngineerMain]

I love watching this series i hope you can get it running again i live halfway across the globe in America but stuff like this makes me wanna go to the Uk

[@traumgeist]

Send the rusted bits out for an oxcelic acid dip. Might be cheaper to source a replacement engine. You will for sure need new pistons, since the aluminum has been acting as a sacrificial anode for the steel and iron.

[@mcgherkinstudios]

Great to see an update on the Rustin’! It amazes me that you look at an engine in that condition and think ‘yeah, I can get that running!’… I’d look at an engine like that and think it fully beyond repair. More power to you, can’t wait to see this thing roar back into life.

[@lmm]

It'll go again!

[@Here_is_Waldo]

It's incredible how bad an engine can look, but you can still get it going again. Some TLC and patience, and it'll come back to life.

[@IliaChakarovGaming]

Absolutely love the Rusty Ruston Restoration project

[@notmuch_23]

Any way you cut it, that engine and transmission/gearbox will _need_ to be lifted out and completely torn down for service and restoration.

[@lmm]

Stay tuned!

[@wilkybarkid]

As Lawrie said "Im making it worse" i feel there will be alot of this before progress can trully be made. Take it apart down to the frames, and build up again

[@stevesalvage1089]

Excellent, it would as expected after that time in the scrapyard, all going the right way , remove water ,fill oil , can't wait for next update !

[@lmm]

Lots happens next time

[@markpowell5654]

Just as a side note at all times please make sure all the people are using eye protection when working on or by the project as grit and sparks can go a good distance and a dust mask i also ware a bump cap as it saved me a couple of times from a headache,especially after we put the buffers on the Nielsen and getting out of the pit.

[@VintageRenewed]

I definitely feel for you guys. You’re dealing with some of the same problems I had with my speeder. It was so rusted that nothing moved. Actually some of the bolts were so rusted that they fused to the aluminum bearing blocks. The bolt heads ended up braking off instead of freeing from the aluminum.

[@guppybob]

Don't think I've ever clicked on a video so quickly; great to see progress. Cheers!

[@lmm]

Significantly more progress coming up in the next episodes

[@Ensign_Redshirt]

I've been looking forward to see the progress that has been made

[@carolinecleaveley-q1r]

thanks Lawrie. glad you continuing to try and get her going again

[@lmm]

It'll be sound!

[@ElliottVeares]

About time for ep2....

[@digbymodelrailway2929]

This is for the Ruston, can’t wait to hear her purr.

[@lmm]

Thank you very much

[@andyday4535]

I wouldn't recommend using a cutting disk without a shroud between myself and the disc. I know it's a long shot but if the disc bursts you could end up in a bit of trouble.

[@Ragnar8504]

Worst thing I've ever seen (by two people independently even) was a 230 mm disc on a 125 mm grinder. Yikes!

[@lmm]

Normally I won't use without a guard. However, couldn't get it in with it on.

[@derekp2674]

Thanks Lawrie and gang, I greatly enjoyed this episode. It certainly does look like 393303 will need a bit more than an oil and filter change before she runs again. I have just acquired two books about the history of Ruston locomotives. I'm sure there are a lot of Ruston enthusiasts out there who will be able to help one way or another. Today I also learned that April 13th 2024 will be a Diesel Day at the Talyllyn Railway in Wales. So the collection of heritage diesels there will be hauling some passenger trains that day. Normally, they are only used for engineering trains, so only staff and volunteers get to ride behind them.

[@lmm]

The diesel day was great last year. We went and filmed a couple of videos!

[@TheDaf95xf]

This is what preservation of old locomotives is all about 👍🏻 Pull it to bits and rebuild it as water will be in every crevice 😮

[@metadude1234]

"It's gone badly wrong, Hammond! Hammond!" - I now want Top Gear, but it's for trains lol. I also hope this one can be up and running, I love to see Loco's that seem way beyond help, surprise everyone by working in the end.

[@tamarmolerick3814]

Been looking forward to this one. Any chance of lifting the engine out and getting it under cover?

[@lmm]

It'll happen!

[@andybmodelrailways]

Great to get an update on the Ruston, looking forward to the next one.

[@drewbarker8504]

One piece at a time! It’s definitely a journey of sweat, cursing, and discovery with projects like this when you have that much rust. But still, one more step forward on 303!

[@citricamoeba]

Can't wait to hear more about one of our favourite diesels! Well done Lawrie and team!

[@museumbaan_fotografie]

hi lawrie by the looks of it u can attack the rust on the freds by getting an angel grinder with a wirewheel and just grind away ive done it withwas shutters

[@Jettaheizer]

So what are you complaining about? Even it´s name says it, so it´s clear there´s Ruston every single part. (irony off) Great work so far, I hope it will come back to life one day!

[@lmm]

It'll run again!

[@_PJW_]

Having grown up on a rail yard in my early years this is like looking at paradise. Have you considered offering teenage volunteers a beautiful chance to learn on the job? Just sidekicks, handing over tools, pouring over manuals, and administrating parts? Excellent voice over btw.

[@lmm]

Yep! We've had some youngsters come along

[@_PJW_]

@@lmm Lucky b@stards!

[@pennsyrailfan]

The first episode finally arrives! Good to see the hard work you've all been doing.

[@markpowell5654]

Take it all apart down to the frames ,engine and gearbox apart then reassemble I see this as the only way forward.Haveing come from many years of 7 1/4 now helping out on full size a Nielsen (1882) steam loco and 2 Rusty Rustons and have learnt an awful lot from some very passionate people all the best with your project.

[@lmm]

Stay tuned!

[@casualyconfusedlive6931]

Fambridge is currently stored at being restored at the Swindon and criklade railway, the same place general steam navigation is under restoration

[@Thedclasstank]

Yesss the ruston are back thank you so much

[@SiaVids]

It looks like that poor locomotive put the rust into Ruston. It is good to see progress being made.

[@TheSynthnut]

For removing rust with zero risk of etching away any metal here's my suggestion: Buy, beg or borrow the biggest plastic water tank you can. Fill it with (deionised if possible) water and dissolve 5-10g/l of tetrasodium EDTA into it. Using citric acid and pH test strips, buffer the solution to a neutral pH. Degrease items and remove loose rust then leave in the tank for a few days/weeks. Iron/steel will come out factory fresh! Dewater thoroughly and oil/paint immediately. Alternatively, contact Ed China who has a few thousand litres of EvapoRust, which works in the same way. He used paddling pool to derust a whole chassis and you could similarly with the frame. The joy of this process is that it will reach internal, inaccessible areas an only reacts with the rust and not the metal itself.

[@bow-tiedengineer4453]

Clearly it isn't broken beyond help, because you're helping it. "generally buggered" is a much more apt description of it's state.

[@lmm]

I'll get the board updated

[@petersmith4455]

hi Lawrie, great video. you might like to take the air cleaner off and clean and repaint it and put new oil in it, same one that goes on an early Ferguson tractor, good luck !

[@j490tgm]

One criticism mate…,.,, the video isn’t long enough🤣🤣 love this mate keep it up. Can’t wait to see it progress

[@lmm]

Next one will be significantly longer - it just wouldn't cut with this

[@shimesu443]

If a group of college students can fix up Pere Marquette 1225, then I think you gents can handle this little lady. Have faith, Lawrie, I'm sure she knows you're trying to save her. You'll get her running soon enough. :)

[@lmm]

I hope so!

[@TheHylianBatman]

I believe in fixing it!! It can and will happen!!!

[@lmm]

Here's hoping!

[@haydnwheeler583]

The Adela and Mitchell’s name was purchased by Simpson Boats who were originally in Sharpness but moved to brimscombe. They built a few boats under this name until their untimely demise. At the time an old A&M boat was known to be still operating on lake Tititaka ? Which was shipped in parts and carried to the lake by donkeys and mules.

[@jrooke1990]

You sure just get a big plastic box to dunk the full engine into oil/diesel and leave it to have a great big soaking init for a couple of weeks to soak through all the nuts and crannies on the engine and gearbox with a small electric heater to keep the oil warm around the engine and gearbox

[@AeromatterYT]

Cool opening montage, feels like we're all about to embark on the journey with you!

[@lmm]

It is quite the adventure so far!

[@TheGramophoneGirl]

Oddly I enjoyed this. More updates please.

[@jayvernon2575]

Cant wait for episode 3 now 😛

[@Arkay315]

I can't wait to see your second rustin run again, is it going to get a name like sir William Mcalpine?

[@RustyInventions-wz6ir]

Very interesting. Nice video

[@lewismeyer4452]

Can not wait for next episode

[@Sir_Rheilffordd]

Finally, thats by far my favourite series. Btw. Thank you Lawrie for the reply to my Email

[@KibuFox]

I'm not sure how true it would be for the UK, or if it even is true, but I remember hearing from an old scrap yard owner, that it was rather common for companies who sold old locomotives to be scrapped... for them to damage the internals of the locomotive in such a way that at a glance it would seem fine, but if worked at all, it would cause the locomotive to seize up. The reasoning he claimed being that companies didn't want to give a perfectly working locomotive over to a scrap yard, out of fear that their former property would be sold at a profit to another company, or to prevent the scrapyard for effectively 'getting something for free'. So it's entirely plausible that some of the damage to the internals you're seeing, may have happened at the company who sold the engine for scrap.

[@ProjektAgnetha]

I'll bet that engine's a runner. The A-series in my Allegro looked far worse inside. Slightly different scale though...

[@ethanruckert3871]

Just found your channel the quality on this is amazing I'm excited to keep watching the series

[@forrestrobin2712]

This Channel just gets better and better Lawrie 👍

[@lmm]

Thank you very much

[@axelrajr]

Im rooting for you Lawrie, but wow this is a project.

[@Beaglington]

Fantastic work lads!

[@LordPhobos6502]

You're opening narrator is wrong, it wasn't alone. It had a tree growing through it 🤣

[@warrior3456_]

6:37 the forbidden kool aid

[@musiqtee]

I’m just 8:04 in, but can’t see an alternative to ripping the engine and gearbox out entirely. Way more work, but not doing so will convert work into labour…? All the best to the whole team from 🇳🇴…! 👍

[@lmm]

Stay tuned!

[@StaxRail]

Out of interest, do you know anywhere that has or might have a comprehensive set of drawings for a Ruston 48 Lawrie? I'm almost convinced that myself and a few of my friends have the facilities to build one from new...

[@danielstickney2400]

Do you have access to a torch or an induction heater? You can unscrew just about anything with enough heat.

[@lmm]

Stay tuned!

[@bluehairedgirlstudio]

Great to see progress but can I ask into the wagon you saved?

[@steve1315]

Good work👍👍

[@MrBnsftrain]

How much work will you do to the engine and gearbox before you need to lift them out?

[@lmm]

Disconnect and remove the extra bits basically

[@samk4128]

What's the situation with your first Ruston? Has it received it's replacement wheelsets? Have i missed a video?

[@BrooksMoses]

Have a listen at 12:55 -- those are going to be the replacement wheelsets for it. (The plan is that the wheels from this Ruston, which don't need rework, are going to go on the running Ruston. And then the ones from the running Ruston are going to go on this one, where the fact that they need reworking isn't going to matter for a while.)

[@samk4128]

@@BrooksMoses Yes, I know the plan is to swap the wheelsets but I wondered if that had been done or if not, why?

[@bjrnfrederiksson2505]

Dang, so we have to wait a month for the next episose.... So sad but thats how it is. I enjoyed the short video every second of it.

[@lmm]

But better than still being in a scrap yard!

[@Mr.NeilOfficial]

FINALLY!!

[@laurencecorr7255]

I was just thinking about this today

[@pietersnackaert]

I love the project, but i'd like more updates on it even tho i understand theres other things to do aswell.

[@Mr_wally]

Turn it off then back on again that will get it going as good as new

[@aliciashepherd8912]

When do you think it will be ready to run

[@lmm]

I'd hope to have it complete in three years

[@aliciashepherd8912]

Sweet

[@MokesEnd]

Try ATF with acetone next time. Also meant to tell you there's a Ruston engine for sale on marketplace - air cooled, unfortunately

[@vanlifeislife5318]

Walnut blast everything. Simples 😂

[@lmm]

Might need something more aggressive

[@lordsjaak]

i do lover the intro of the episode. so do the credits to that maker of it

[@zippy5131]

Feed pipes a bit of the brazing and bob's now your auntie mabel. Was wondering how the old girl was getting along.

[@Thedclasstank]

Lorry it's a rust on of course it has rust

[@ThomasTenma]

If i was a rail tuber (or whatever rail way/road youtubers are called) or a Thomas fan series creator I would love to have you as a narrator or one of the crew characters in a video

[@caramelldansen2204]

I hate to say it, but... all Thomas narrators _must_ be Scouse!! 😤

[@solarusthelonghaulerrailfa3226]

Well lawrie might be a good idea to just completely disassemble the whole thing and give everything a look over and then see what’s next

[@axelraver]

18:58 do any of you guys ever heard about oxyacetylene ? ....😅 why not heat to unbolt or heat to get stuck parts unstuck ? At the point where you are there's not much you can ruin ...

[@Captain_Char]

I think you guys might need access to a sandblaster or a giant ultrasonic cleaner, lol

[@nicklackey6595]

Well the tires arnt flat...

[@carl-oscarbjorkman8923]

I know it's probably a bit too early, but have you thought of a name for this Ruston for when it starts being finished.

[@lmm]

There is a long list the community have suggested

[@carl-oscarbjorkman8923]

@lmm I don't know if somebody has put forward to name it after Lady Mcalpine. And maybe paint it red.

[@philipstreechon4523]

Use 2-stroke oil works best

[@lmm]

Will give it a bash

[@SaltimusMaximus]

To be fair, given the way it has stood in the open to the elements for so many years, it could have been far worse

[@Taggart00]

I must be in Ep3

[@jbhtrams]

I take it that that's not the one you put the starter motor on?

[@lmm]

No, that's the other.

[@jbhtrams]

@@lmm I really love thst scrapyard. In our area there are only rows and rows of cars! If I was younger, I'd want to buy everything in there!!!

[@lmm]

@@jbhtrams I would if it was cheaper

[@jbhtrams]

@@lmm 🤣🤣🤣

[@richiep7812]

I’m sure one of these is a Thomas character now?

[@stewart4711]

Id pull the pan plug solvent spray first

[@Transit_Biker]

While I am full in with you on the spirit of restoring old machines and learning mechanical skills and such, I do have to say that the lack of personal protective equipment is extremely concerning and something that should be taken seriously at all times. Proper eye protection and gloves, as well as overalls to keep diesel which is in fact carcinogenic off of your skin and rust, which can contain who knows what kind of microbes off of your skin and out of your face is monumentally important. I do hope you’ll see this comment and purchase the appropriate protective equipment and use it going forward. All of that said I do believe this locomotive can be saved, but it will take a lot of work. You may end up having to media blast most of the block and and wire brush much of the rest to free up all of the seized pieces. Also, I would recommend not using WD-40, but instead using a proper penetrating oil as WD-40 is not a lubricant, but a water displacement substance. Cheers.

[@BrooksMoses]

Strongly agreed on most of that, but note that this is "WD-40 brand rust remover", which is a different thing from actual WD-40, and is in fact a penetrating oil and rust remover. Basically, the WD-40 company decided that, if people were going to use their stuff for a penetrating oil, they might as well make a good one.

[@SurvivingTheApocalypse]

Are you saying ‘huve’?

[@lmm]

No

[@kentishman5179]

That 1ltr of diesel was paid for by my £50 donation 😂

[@Rheneas1866]

you should name her lady judith mcalpine

[@humbucker0076]

I can't tell you anything about your engine that would help you. Probably right to take a deep dive into the engine though. All these KZbinrs just starting these old engines may work for the video but if that's beneficial for the engines health. Maybe if your motor is too bad an alternative could be to fit another engine, maybe a different type, get the loco running and do the engine afterwards. Where I actually wanted to get to is some small tool usage tips: At around 12:20 you used a soft blow hammer, so no wonder you couldn't get anything loose, it takes away the impulse you want to transfer on to the chisel. Use a normal hammer for that and grip at the bottom of the shaft. If you can't do that, it's too heavy, get a lighter one. But do always make sure it is clean. Even something as little as dirt and grime on the impact surface of your hammer head can rob you around 15% of your force. The same goes for the chisel. Although there it's also important it's not starting to split. A shart could then tear off and land in someone's eye. With that being said: A hammer and a chisel can be the superior tool choice for removing bolts, often better than an angle grinder, concerning reach and not harming the threads below. Sometimes even speed. Basically the old school alternative to these nut splitter tools you see sometimes. Take a chisel and put it on one of the flat sides of the nut, its edge parallel to the bolts center axis and start hammering on it aimed forwards the center of the bold, sometimes it might be easier tilting the chisel towards the bolt so less of its tip is working away at the bolt. You will get s feel for it. But usually works pretty well. You only have to be careful with spring washers, they are hardened and will make your chisel blunt. Another thing to keep in mind for this and anything else you hammer is your rebound. Often things will flex when the impact force is transferred to them. They then act like a spring and damper and robbing power which then isn't used to split material. If this happens for example when trying to split a nut just hold a heavier hammer, best case a sledge hammer on the opposite side of the bold. It works wonders, a world of difference. Basically an anvil, if the second hammer doesn't noticeably recoil it's heavy enough for optimal results. The same thing goes for when you want the hammer a screw out of something. Get someone to hold a hammer next to the hole you want to hammer a screw out of. It then acts as a damper, so the object you want the screw out of can't absorb energy meaning it all has to go into the bolt. It works even more wonders when trying to loosen pipes with flange nuts. For this you don't need a sledgehammer. A pair of smaller hammers is enough. But hammer around all flat spots of the nut, with a second hammer as an anvil on the opposite side. If you do it we'll enough the nut will become loose like it was tightened yesterday. Works with normal nuts too. But extra important, so you don't shear the pipe the nut is on. Because that's what I would guess happened with the oil line you showed in the video. Or at least weakened it, so it broke from stress later. But remember, a good clean hammer, chisel and maybe a second hammer and a damper/anvil can work wonders, you'll remove screws you never dreamt of removing all without power tools.

[@humbucker0076]

And please close your high Vis when working with an angle grinder, maybe tug it down your pants, but having it open will bend over grinding is a disaster waiting to happen. Enough nagging - Stay safe Lawrie!