Giandel 1200W Pure Sine Wave Inverter - Detailed Bench Test and Review

[@Birdman3393]

Cheers for the review. I appreciate looking at the waveform on a scope. Quick note on the microwave test. The 1200W rating on the microwave is normally for its output power and would have in input requirement a few hundred watts higher. Hence the auto cut out.

[@TheMusingGreg]

You could well be right on that one. Thanks!

[@mariusoz2588]

@@TheMusingGreg I have a 750W rated output microwave but the actual power consumption is 1270W according to the specs.

[@TheMusingGreg]

@@mariusoz2588 Well that's pretty interesting, I didn't check that but you could be right as to why the inverter couldn't keep up! Cheers!

[@carlh2007]

I havent done the calculation but you were measuring the voltage off the battery, at high amperage there would be some voltage drop to the inverter and then its internal wiring which may have dropped it down to 10v. just a thought.

[@TheMusingGreg]

Yep you're quite right there Carl about the external wiring, I might check that out at some point. I would hope any internal voltage drop would have been considered when specifying the 10V threshold. Thanks for the comment!

[@carlh2007]

​@@TheMusingGreg thanks for your vids I have a little more confidence in these inverters now. My plan is to be able to run a toster (700w) and maybe a small coffee pod machine when camping off grid, so looking at this one or the 1700w however I only have 2 batteries in parralel hopefully they can supply enough current. The other problem is room, we have a brand new jayco lark and the 2 batteries pretty much fill the battery compartment already. Ill figure something out!

[@TheMusingGreg]

@@carlh2007 No problems Carl, glad to hear they were useful! Yes space is always an issue in things like the Lark. We use an Aeropress for making coffee which only needs hot water, not power, and we cook toast in the griller or over the fire. Heating is a huge sucker of power, so we try to avoid using 12V for heating - even 700W is just shy of 60A out of 12V!

[@mariusoz2588]

Very helpful video, I always wanted to see the actual wave form on a scope. It would have been nice if you had a clamp meter on the DC cables to see the DC current on the higher loads, thank you for the effort.

[@TheMusingGreg]

My pleasure mate, please subscribe if you haven't already! No I don't have a current clamp unfortunately, just the CRO! Since I shot this video I bought an Anderson plug power meter (for solar charging) which goes up to 150A but I didn't have that at the time unfortunately!

[@fishhuntadventure]

Giandel advertises the no-load draw as 0.7-0.9A so that’s on spec. But it does seem to me that it should be less at idle. Nevertheless I am quite pleased with mine after 2-1/2 years. The fan seems to come on in three conditions: hi-amp like running my shop vac, and after quite a long time at like 600W or more, and if you have the 600W coffeemaker already on when you turn on the inverter. Which leads me to believe it is both temperature and load triggered.

[@TheMusingGreg]

Thanks for the comments mate, I'd agree with them all. I have a friend with a larger version which has a 2.5A idle current draw. It should really be lower. I agree about the fan, I've noticed it comes on after a while even when there is no load.

[@TheFosterJourney]

Thanks for a great review!

[@TheMusingGreg]

My pleasure guys, enjoy the journey! Cheers, Greg

[@John-gm8ty]

I picked up a super cheap car stereo amp capacitor and have it bus bar connected to the inverter battery terminals to smooth the inrush for high loads, it does an impressive job of not pulling down the battery bank quickly with high initial draw loads.

[@TheMusingGreg]

Great tip John, that could be what's killing it. I'll give it a try!

[@highdesertbadlandinggargam2432]

Hi quick question does your cooling fan pull air into the unit across the internals and out through the opposite side?

[@TheMusingGreg]

I'm almost certain if your hand is on the outside behind the fan, air is blowing out onto your hand. I.e. it's sucking air through from the other side of the inverter, across the internals, and blowing it out the back. But I'll double check next time it's running.

[@TheMusingGreg]

Hi mate I just checked and yes the fan is sucking air through from the other side of the inverter, across the internals, and blowing it out the back.

[@highdesertbadlandinggargam2432]

@The Mustang Greg Thanks a lot brother that was a big help!

[@TheMusingGreg]

My pleasure!

[@steveb.3057]

Which inverter is pure sine wave?

[@TheMusingGreg]

Hi Steve B, yes this unit is a pure sine wave inverter. Make sure you look out for that, vs a 'modified' sine wave inverter which doesn't give as pure a signal.

[@TheMusingGreg]

This one is

[@grasshopper3085]

Very valuable review. Thanks for sharing. The 2000W/4000W version is probably better for all those big resistive loads.

[@grasshopper3085]

157 USD for the 2000W version: www.amazon.com/GIANDEL-Inverter-Control-Display-Outlets/dp/B07MMB23LS/

[@grasshopper3085]

The failed microwave test was probably your battery not being capable of delivering 100+ amps. That's too much for the typical 12v 100ah battery.

[@TheMusingGreg]

No problems. Yes if I had room I may have gone for the next size up.

[@TheMusingGreg]

That's possible. Although I had two 12V batteries in parallel so I would hope they could deliver that if needed.

[@fishhuntadventure]

@@TheMusingGreg Deep cycles don’t put out big amps very well, less surface area in the plates. For tests like this a pair of automotive starting batteries can put out enough amps on demand to demonstrate an inverter’s capabilities. But of course that’s not real world- the deep cycles make more sense because those are real world, what we would use.

[@WaywardOffGrid]

A microwave rated at 1200 watts cooking power draws around 1500 watts and can possibly surge more. No way it can run it. A 1200 watt inverter might be able to run a 600 watts cooking power microwave which draws 850-900 watts.

[@TheMusingGreg]

Yeah it was about what I expected, I just hoped that since the inverter claimed 2400W peak it would get it running. But the issue's probably insufficient input current from the batteries.

[@John-gm8ty]

rule of thumb with cheap inverters, what ever your max projected power draw, double that for the inverter, because pretty much all of them are over rated on actual continuous output. so if you expect a 1000w draw, get a 2000w inverter, and to be super safe, a 3000w. oh, also at that draw, you're going to want so VERY beefy battery cables as short as possible. I'd start at 14mm sq 00 gauge battery cable to handle 292 amp draw. this is just for extra safety that the cables wont' heat up and have minimal voltage drop

[@TheMusingGreg]

Yeah I'm comfortably pulling 600+W from my 1200W unit, which is about your 100% figure. Though you're right the cabling could be part of the problem. The wire linking the two batteries isn't that thick, I didn't think to change that when I set it up from what it had when I got it. I rarely need 1200W actually but I'll pop a meter on the wiring at some stage when I fire up the microwave and see how much voltage is getting dropped across the link. Another good tip thanks!

[@cottsak]

very detailed and useful! thanks. I will prob get one of these (but the 24v version) for my DIY powerwall tinkerings

[@TheMusingGreg]

No worries cottsak, glad it was helpful for you!

[@andrewwhittaker6622]

I've run Giandel inverters for years on my off grid setup I've had a good run with them but i wouldn't expect to pull 100amps plus through those little cables that come with it Once you get 1000w + @12v you need heavy gauge wire for current and voltage drop or it's like trying to breath through a straw Good video 😉

[@TheMusingGreg]

Thanks, fair point that could well be the problem!

[@66bigbuds]

A real Giandel silver has blue and white label with the trade name in black. No yellow or orange. That's an immatation junk off brand. Try a real giandel.

[@TheMusingGreg]

Thanks for the comment Keith. I can't say for sure, but I'd respectfully disagree for two reasons: 1) The visual design, along with the black and orange label, is the same as what's shown on Giandel's Australian website www.giandel.com.au/product/giandel-pure-sine-inverter-1200w-12v-ps-1200dar12v/. 2) While I did buy this unit on eBay, it faulted several months later (see follow-up video) at which time I returned it to Giandel Australia under warranty. They sent a replacement unit which was visually identical, same black + yellow + orange label. What's your information source mate? It'd be interesting to understand. Cheers, Greg