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18-year-old Pismo beach lifeguard Tyler Balsillie was one of a dozen or so who chased last week's North Pacific opener from Maui to Maverick's -- his first time. (Though he had surfed both spots before.) As the swell was building at Pe'ahi, he endured one of the most dramatic wipeouts of the day: a freefall, over-the-falls, board-breaker. The following morning, on his first wave, a near repeat, minus the board breaking part. After pulling both CO2 cartridges on his vest, he got picked up by the ski and headed back for more. "I was like man, I flew five hours here, spent all my money, I gotta get The Wave," he said.
A while later, The Wave comes in. He scratches into it, fully committed. "I try to knife in, and the wind airdrops me 20 feet top to bottom," he said. "I'm not even surfing at this point -- I'm skydiving." Balsillie sticks the drop -- a gravity-defying feat in itself -- but is quickly gobbled up by a mountain of whitewater. Gets held under for two waves, pops up for 15 seconds and is steamrolled by another one before he's picked up by a ski and dropped off on the rocks, boardless. "I was bummed, that was gonna be my board for Mav's," he said. "But they found it floating in the channel, totally undamaged. So I loaded up and headed to the airport."
Fast forward to the next morning. It's hot and sunny and glassy and Balsillie (who first surfed Mav's at 16 years old) hops on a ski around 10am. "Compared to Pe'ahi, which had 20 mph offshore winds, Maverick's seemed like this super calm, slabby wave," he said. "And I got a little bit cocky, thinking, 'man this is gonna be easy.'"
Spoiler alert: it's not, as evidenced in the video above.
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