How to restore the finish on a Mid Century Teak Coffee Table - Part One - A step by step guide

[@matousoutrata]

Dear Sir, all you say is Gold. I have always wanted to hear what you say. Please go on with videos with your voice on. You have a great gift of teaching not just how's, but also why's. "Stripping it three times" is my mantra :) Your products are great. Your knowledge is far more superior. Thank you Sir, and please keep talking :)

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank you so much for your kind words. It's very much appreciated. ☺️

[@SteveAverett-d9n]

Welcome back, Simon. Love your teaching videos and your amazing products. Your wax polish and hard wax oil are my go-to finishes at my shop in America.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Wonderful!! Thank you Steve. ☺️

[@TheCottackWorkshop]

Great to see you back on KZbin Simon! Excellent video

[@Cradley684]

Nice one Simon, look forward to part two, have a nice day all !!! Brian, West Mid's !!! 😀😀.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thanks Brian. 😊

[@catherinearchibald8356]

I am very much awake and still watching you! I very much appreciate you and your videos. I am about to embark upon the refinishing of my parent's 1960s Younger dining table. My dad destroyed it with boiled linseed oil, 30 years ago. By his own admission, he had no idea what he was doing and he slapped that stuff on. It's not an exaggeration to say that it was a gummy, bubbly, sticky mess for YEARS after. It's dry now but is falling in some placed and resembles spilt toffee in others. I'm still torn between a chemical stripper, a baco scraper, napalm, or all 3! Wish me luck! 😂

[@GilboysRestoration]

Good luck. 😂👏👏👏

[@Red-Peril]

Perfect! Friday evening, hot bath, glass of single malt and a chance to watch (and listen to 😉) Simon restore some neglected beauty to its former glory. My kind of relaxation 🙂.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank you. ☺️

[@girlpilot1918]

So happy to see your new video, I learn so much from you. Who doesn't want to hear a master craftsman speak? Pfft.

[@GilboysRestoration]

You're very kind. Thank you.

[@ritchandsj3333]

Fantastic and informative as always, looking forward to part two.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Coming soon! I have to edit it ready for next week. Many thanks.

[@charlottewalker3810]

About time you put out another video! It's been a while! 🤩 😆

[@GilboysRestoration]

Hi Charlotte. I agree! 🙃🙂

[@charlottewalker3810]

@@GilboysRestoration Loved the video. 😍Looking forward to part 2. Do any of your videos address "ghosting?" Not sure what the correct term is but it's when you want to change the handles on something but removing the original ones leaves a ghostly impression behind on the wood - and that ghostly shape doesn't ever seem to sand out. Would love advice on that please if you have any!

[@GilboysRestoration]

Hi Charlotte. I know exactly what you mean 🙂 It's a very common problem in our world of restoration/ conservation. There's no magic fix for it. Often we would need to replace a missing handle, or part of a handle. (back plate). If we couldn't source an exact match often we will repair it in the workshop. (silver brazing). You see, with antiques, in most cases, you can't attack the wood surface by sanding or using chemicals. It's about conservation. If we were presented with a piece that required new brassware, we would source handles that were 'period correct'. The secret is to use handles that ever-so slightly larger than the 'ghosted shadow'. It takes time to do, but worth it for the end result. We have never found a 100% successful way of blending the shadow. You can try hand colouring it or bleaching but it will ruin the piece. Sourcing handles that fit or are just fractionally larger is the best way to overcome this problem. I hope this helps. Kind regards Simon.

[@charlottewalker3810]

@@GilboysRestoration Thank you for such a detailed response!

[@GilboysRestoration]

@@charlottewalker3810You are most welcome. 😊

[@keefidee]

Great to see a new restoration.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank you.

[@patientorlando1306]

A very enjoyable, informative, and fun video! Thank you for the pan out to show your workshop - it looks so cool🤩And it is great to see some of the 'behind the scenes' team who work the cameras with a cheeky bit of side-eye😁😆 If you can't take the mick out of your mates at work then where are you😅 Looking forward to part II

[@GilboysRestoration]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you, It's much appreciated. 😁

[@AndrewEvans-f2d]

Good to see you back Simon, and thanks for the email notifying me of this and your move to Dartington.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank You Andrew. 🙂 it's been a very busy 12 months. 😊

[@AndrewEvans-f2d]

@@GilboysRestoration I forgot to say I prefer the speaking videos.

[@johnwilby9153]

Enjoyed the comeback! Good project to choose. Thanks.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank you.

[@daan7330]

missed You ! greetings

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank you. I'm hoping we will have many more videos to come. 😊

[@cobberpete1]

Welcome back Simone. Lots of views, so definitely more than one viewer hanging around. 😁. I have a question I hope you can answer. I have just refurbished a solid wood bar top ( West Australian Eucalyptus Wandoo ). I have finished with three coats of Satin Varnish. and then a coat of Beeswax. The customer did not specify at the time, but they were expecting a gloss finish. How can I take off just the Beeswax, ( to clean the surface), and then apply a gloss coat.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank you. Yes you can wipe off the beeswax with a cloth dampened with white spirit. Wipe it dry and then cut it back as smooth and flat as you possibly can. Gloss finishes show nearly all imperfections. Try and apply it in a clean dust free environment. Gloss finishing can be tricky to get right. Kind regards Simon.

[@jasonsmithgooner]

As a French polisher we always apply the soda crystals first to open up the wood, then use the oxalic

[@GilboysRestoration]

I've never seen it done this way before. Surely if you apply the washing soda before the acid, the acid will be neutralised before it can work?

[@jasonsmithgooner]

Try it really works

[@islandblind]

If you can't get a stripper that actually works, you can often use lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol in the place of the stripper. This presumes that the finish is shellac or lacquer. Most antique furniture will be finished with one of those two finishes. Use alcohol for shellac and lacquer thinner for lacquer, of course. You can apply the solvent with a nylon abrasive pad or a pad of fine steel wool, rubbing in the direction of the grain. When most of the finish is gone, soak a cloth in the appropriate solvent and wipe down the piece to get rid of any residue. You then sand, stain, and finish as usual. Of course, wear gloves, goggles and a respirator. If at all possible work outside, in the shade, and out of the wind.

[@islandblind]

Here's another trick. You can dissolve oxalic acid in denatured alcohol or methanol. That way, you're not applying water to a veneered surface and running the risk of delamination. It also dries more quickly when the acid is dissolved in alcohol.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Yes you are right, 😀 you can do it this way. I will demonstrate this method in another video. 🙂

[@annslattery9999]

Welcome back.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Thank you.

[@TheJewbecca]

Is it only teak that's easy to cover a spot on? I have your sample kit, and a table with a single ring, but it's definitely not teak.

[@GilboysRestoration]

Hi. The method of refinishing I demonstrate here can be applied to nearly all pieces of furniture. 🙂 kind regards Simon

[@bloggalot4718]

Tell staff to keep out of the camera shot please.

[@claudiap.4272]

Why???

[@bloggalot4718]

@ If you watch the news, do you expect someone to keep popping into the broadcast?