Fashion Historian Fact Checks The Queen's Gambit's Wardrobe | Glamour

Fashion historian Raissa Bretaña fact checks the historical accuracy of the costumes in Netflix’s The Queen’s Gambit. She analyzes every aspect of Elizabeth Harmon's wardrobe from high school to adulthood. She also explains the evolution of each layer of the iconic styles of dress from the 1950s to the 1960s.
John Bates exhibition photo courtesy of Dani Lurie:
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Fashion Historian Fact Checks The Queen's Gambit's Wardrobe | Glamour

[@RS-dy8il]

i always thought that Beth's boyish hairstyle represented how oppressed the girls at the orphanage were, since most of them had that same cut, and then when she eventually got adopted, growing out her hair was more of a breaking-free process rather than her just not being in touch with the latest trends

[@danijay6410]

i think its both her not being in touch with trends was becuz she like the other girls were isolated in the orphanage roght?

[@Ryanmanification]

The fact she called it pageboy haircut reminds me of those knights during the Middle Ages with that haircut

[@charlottek5973]

I think it was pretty common in orphanages to cut the kids’ hair short in a bid to prevent lice outbreaks. And obviously it’s done by someone who doesn’t care whether it’s pretty or fashionable. Keep it short and out of their eyes, that’s the only consideration.

[@obliviousfantasy633]

Yeh, me too.

[@anamont4490]

I saw it more to her attachment to her biological mother. She always kept her bangs that were inspired by her mom, but when she starts focusing on chess and getting closer to her adoptive mom and considering her more of a family than just a house host, so she becomes her own person by growing out her hair and developing her own style.

[@alexlovessamoyeds]

I really appreciate Raissa wearing a checked pattern and a chess knight brooch for this video. Nice touch!

[@liv97497]

And it's *such* a cute dress, too! (or shirt?)

[@summersongfox5850]

And her nails have black and white geometric patterns to match!

[@shainaisrael]

Just coming to say that

[@sapphicscandals]

She always wears a brooch that ties in to the show or movie she's talking about and I get genuinely excited to see what she's wearing each video

[@marazobrist16]

So cute!

[@somethingillregret]

I LOVE the choice to glam her up. The trope of intelligent people being drab and fashion blind is so over done.

[@MsSimranP]

Exactly! And the costumes add so much to the overall tone and quality of the show. I can't imagine it without them.

[@jules6578]

and the way she evolved reflecting her status, environment and mental state- just 😩

[@abigailhandyside1522]

I also appreciate that they made the "weird" girl still have the similar interests as young women her age instead of being completely "not like other girls." Much more realistic than fully going against that norm, and also more realistic that she'd have more than one interest/hobby.

[@pennybennett874]

i agree! i feel like the decision to have beth be interested in fashion, hair and makeup was definitely the right one, because if she were to continue wearing drab unstylish clothes throughout the series it would reinforce the stereotype that girls can only be pretty OR smart, not both and never at the same time

[@roberttien8231]

xxx89

[@Mandyn8868]

I absolutely LOVE how glamorous Beth is. Not only because the 1960s high-end glam style is one of my favorites, but also because think it sends a great feminist message. Even though Beth is very intelligent and successful, she is still glamorous. She also enjoys traditionally girlie things such as makeup and fashion and these things are often not viewed as respectable interests for an achieving young woman. Idk i just love when shows and movies do this because i feel like this is everyday internalized misogyny many girls experience which makes them feel the need to repress the girlie parts of themselves to be respected.

[@teamene9034]

legally blonde but make it 60s

[@pennybennett874]

exactly! i feel like it proves the point that women can (and should be allowed to) be feminine/attractive as well as intellectual. were often told that girls can only be pretty OR smart, but i love how beth is both

[@pfftxoxo1502]

But when you think about it they still base her worth on her appearance. You’re basically saying that anyone who is not glamorous isn’t feminine enough

[@transplantman2287]

Agreed! I loved that the actress herself advocated for a more glamorous look for her character. The costumes and Beth's many looks throughout were cinematic eye candy and made a much more powerful statement about the character herself, I think.

[@kent6262]

i think most viewers of films and shows underestimate how important a character’s wardrobe constitutes our understanding of the story and character so i personally love these kind of videos

[@marissashantez6051]

Its the most accurate thing about this show. There have never been any women players equal to men, and the top ones have certainly never been American.

[@-lily-14]

I love how there are 7 episodes similar to how it takes 7 moves to move across the board. Also, in the first episode, she was dressed like a pawn and in the 7th episode she is dressed as a white queen.

[@mabelccr1000]

YEAHH I found that really cool

[@marylennox288]

Genius observation! I hadn't noticed either of those things! Maybe all the orphans are like the pawns in a chess game, each waiting to moved, and so when she is chosen by the Wheatleys, that's her first move out onto the board.

[@l0verofallthings]

@@marylennox288 ahh this is also such a genius observation!!

[@julieta574]

@@marylennox288 clever!!

[@syedmazharhasan6803]

I want this to be a regular series now Edit: I meant that Prof Bretana should do a regular series now of breaking down period drama costumes. I am not talking about Queen's Gambit.

[@devonheart1029]

Why is it limited though?

[@larasif2852]

@@devonheart1029 because it’a based on a stand alone book

[@TheChibiMaster564]

She does things like this for multiple fictional characters, if that’s what you’re referring to.

[@jetstar232]

They won't do a regular series.. the story is done

[@gabriellereich6571]

This is a series! Here's a link to all of the episodes Glamour has done so far: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qquogpusnqt-bJI

[@sv4773]

She teaches costume history at my college! I wish I could’ve registered for it but it was fully filled on the first day of registration 😭

[@DraqonfruitYT]

Her classes must be incredible!

[@fardiachowdhury9758]

Which college?? Oml you're so lucky!!

[@Zusie]

Is it a course for a fashion degree or a history degree?

[@sv4773]

@@fardiachowdhury9758 FIT!

[@sv4773]

@@Zusie fashion lol

[@iamwindchakra]

I live in KY just outside of Cincinnati, and Lexington is about an hour away. When she said that small towns don't have access to the latest trends LORD, I felt it. I'm 35. It wasn't till 2009 I started to feel as fashionable as I wanted, thank you INTERNET SHOPPING.

[@DieAlteistwiederda]

I live in Germany in a bigger city and most of my cousins live in small villages. You could always tell they didn't live here when they were visiting. The clothes just were different even though some lived as close as 30 minutes away.

[@doctorwholover1012]

I live on a 9 mile island with a couple of other smaller islands around me, and while currently (2021) we don’t have the out of touch fashion situation, back in the 80s my mother reports that she and her friends would be about 6mths out of date in fashion to the mainland, and when they’d go on day trips to the smaller islands, they’d be the talk of the town bc THOSE islands were another 6mths behind us 😅 ppl today really don’t realize how the pre-internet world worked lmao

[@marthahawkinson-michau9611]

In my city, people STILL tend to be a bit behind the times, and this is with the help of internet culture. Pre-internet was even worse in terms of trendy things hanging around long after the trend was out of fashion.

[@paigeh1670]

Well, I lived in Lexington for 3 years and when she called it a "small town," I was like, ouch. It's not a metropolis, but it's a good sized city! I never found shopping harder in Lexington than say, Nashville, which is the biggest city I've spent a lot of time in. Maybe part of this is that I am only 28, so by the time I was interested in fashion, the internet was already a thing. Plus, I love vintage, so IDGAF about being trendy. I'm at least 40 years out of style and I love it.

[@iamwindchakra]

@@paigeh1670 its a good size city for this state. It's teeny tiny compared to something like Philadelphia, and especially Chicago. But the beauty in that is you are correct and the vintage shopping is GOOD in this area!

[@HJ-ju4ui]

i love that they didn't make her the ''i'm not like the other girls'' trope she's smart AND beautiful

[@moonlightbae333]

At the same time i would love to finally see a female character that’s not conventionally attractive being portraited as valuable and the plot focusing on her as a person not some error that has to be changed in a make-over, especially that Walter Tevis wrote in his book multiple thimes that Beth was plain, to speak lightly. Honestly it’s frustrating that every female main character looks like a model.

[@HJ-ju4ui]

@@moonlightbae333 there are plenty of shows like that though? Just watch any netflix teen drama besides Riverdale im just tired of " beautiful = stupid " there is much more of that and plenty of smart plain Janes

[@theraggedymochi]

@@moonlightbae333 unfortunately it's going to be a loooong while before mainstream productions regularly cast female leads that they can't glam up to be photo-ready.

[@DetectiveNyx]

@@HJ-ju4ui can you name any specific examples of shows with leads that aren't conventionally attractive?

[@shev.aalena]

Really appreciated her outfits while I was watching, although I didn't even realize that the last one was made to resemble a chess piece, that's amazing. But my mom lowkey laughed at how some men were dressed up in the Moscow episodes, so I'd get a historian's opinion about costumes through out the whole series and different characters.

[@dumomaureen527]

Please do the Marvelous Mrs Maisel Next.. I’m waiting for that episode

[@12harrypotterfan34]

Yessss! I love Midge's costumes on that show.

[@Overly_nourished_entity]

YES!! The clothes are so nice on that show

[@sudarov]

I think she did before

[@dumomaureen527]

@@sudarov where? can u send me the link

[@heathernvisser]

YESSSSSS

[@maggieherreria-keeping1872]

My crush on Beth Harmon will never go away

[@ShesInLosAngeles]

As one who is of the same age as the character Beth, we young women of the 1960's, who could not afford designer clothes, went to our sewing machines to make many "shift" dresses (as we called them) to round out our wardrobe on a budget. It was an easy silhouette to replicate. I loved this series!

[@leapintothewild]

Yes, I was born in 1963 and remember my mom sewing a ton of shift dresses for herself and for me. She even made me a bright red crushed vinyl coat with a white fake fur hat and muff, all worn with my favorite white vinyl go-go boots. 🙂 I was a smokin' 6 yr old, let me tell ya. lol

[@JuzJaded]

Raissa's knight piece brooch is **chef's kiss**

[@DavidMartinez-eq4iq]

Big props for the costume designers, they were as much significant as the story for the show

[@lilsoupangel]

Can we get a round of applause for glamour for finally listening and improving the illustrations?? we see you Andrew Thomas !!!! 💘

[@xJuliaGrimesx]

Btw Beth‘s checkered coat was also worn by Meghan in the last season of Mad Man

[@lilacx5657]

I did not notice that thanks for the observation.

[@missimperfectlyfine7]

which episode?

[@avrilynravenee5143]

finally! a good illustrator doing justice to this series!!

[@krawczynski7949]

she is one of the few who can pull off micro bangs

[@j7055]

The costume design was *chefs kiss* in this. The way her fashion developed to mirror her character development was so good

[@ylias8993]

I looove the finale white look, but the fact that the whites don't match drives me crazy haha

[@AirQuotes]

Same

[@Charloteblahblah]

Same! Her character was highly visual (when she would visualise the chess board on the ceiling and her appreciation for fashion etc) so although I love the look of a queen piece, I wish they had made the pieces match more. It's the trousers and shoes they are cool toned white and it doesn't really compliment her skin tone either. Even though she's pale, she ginger which makes her warm toned. I love the costumes and I suppose it's realistic in a way, it's hard to find matching whites.

[@ZoeMay]

The clothes choices played a huge role in showcasing the different phases of her life and also her mother’s. Massive congratulations on their big win ❤️❤️❤️

[@Lily8061]

I like the analysis between the color/pattern choices of the clothes and how they tie into the storyline.

[@Brandyrose111]

Wow can somebody give this show an award for the costume design and attention to detail and history. I already love the 60s and this show. But you pointing out the little details like how the patterns emulate the chess board makes me love it even more! This show so 100% my aesthetic and I want basically every outfit! Great video of showing how amazing all the outfits really were! 😆💙✨

[@cfc326]

60s fashion. * chef's kiss *

[@florylege]

What a deep analysis of the show costumes! I personnally did my own too on my channel, breaking down the appearance of the green color, the presence of geometry and pure lines all along the serie. I really agree on this idea she was pretty successful for her appearance at the Paris tournament, How can you make THAT perfect hair shape when you juste woke up with hair partially wet ?! haha anyway, loved this Raissa!

[@brandonday2494]

Anya made have influenced them to glam her up, but the showrunners gave up on her being not particularly attractive the minute they cast her,

[@PistachioDean]

Not that she existed, but I'd hate for my one hobby, or drug addiction, to become the only thing I wear in a series lol.

[@Thekawaiiasian101vid]

I think this was done for the sake of storytelling. But I think it's also relevant to what people wear in real life just bc in more ways than not, I feel like clothing can depict your state of mind/what kind of person you are.

[@Charloteblahblah]

Noone ever mentions in these videos about her wardrobe that she was drawn to chess because of the board. She's says she noticed the board first after the journalist in her room suggests the King and Queen might be like parental figures. This heavily suggests that she has a deep appreciation for geometric patterns. I think it makes a lot of sense she would choose these patterns, some more subtle patterns would probably be subconscious but some of her outfits would have been purposely chosen because she loves chess. Also it emphasises that her addiction and the game are all she really has in her life or all that she feels she has. ♟️♥️

[@PistachioDean]

I didn't think people would take this comment so seriously lol. Tbh, if I was portrayed in drama, I would hope the costume director adds elements to my clothing that symbolise my story arc, like the amazing detailing in Sansa Starks costumes for example :)

[@LadyNikitaShark]

If you are going to study history, start with the fashion of that time. The way we dress does says alot about us and about our surroundings.

[@nickfairhead2355]

Beth's outfit in the last scenes mimics a chess KING not a Queen...

[@miramiraonthewall133]

If you actually read the original book you would learn that Beth actually was “attractive” when she was older and it wasn’t really a change the directors made

[@finntran1672]

I’m interested in anthropology and the show did an amazing job using fashion as a medium of communication. Fashion play such a large role in human culture. I disagree with people who say “she’s smart, she’s not suppose to be pretty” and “oh so all women has adhere to impossible beauty standards huh”. Everyone can be pretty in their own way, fashion is for everyone (not just for pretty women), to ignore fashion is to ignore culture and individuality.

[@Historian212]

Saddle shoes and bobby socks were pretty much over by 1964 (I was a very fashion-conscious nine-year-old in '64). Girls were going for white go-go boots in a big way, and also ankle-height boots with low heels, starting about that year. Geometric designs were starting to make an impact among the fashion-forward, but most people didn't wear those bold prints, they were often modified for the mass market, at least until 66-67-ish. A great movie to reference for cutting-edge 1966-era fashion is "How to Steal a Million," in which Audrey Hepburn wore incredibly "mod" outfits by Givenchy. (It's a cute rom-com also starring Peter O'Toole.) Elizabeth's early-on hairstyle wasn't really a pageboy. A pageboy was more curled under, and was usually a bit longer than her cut. (People call all kinds of things pageboys now, it was different back then.) Hers was a Dutch boy haircut, which was a retro-20s look popular early in the 60s (short bangs, not so much curled under but hanging, and short like Elizabeth's). A lot of the mid- late-60s fashions were retro-20s: dropped, formless waists, short bobs, t-strap shoes with low heels, knee-length or just-above the knee hemlines, skinny figures with small bustlines and hips (think Twiggy), etc. Agree about the blow dryer issue with the Natalie Wood-style haircut (called a *flip,* btw, the opposite of a pageboy). Almost nobody used those in the late 60s, they became a thing in the 70s. There were metal versions (my mother had one), which were super heavy; most girls used plastic bonnet-style dryers that fit over the curlers.

[@cmarq817]

I see you Raissa, with your checkered dress and chess piece brooch ...!

[@gigimarie41]

The Lexington department store scenes were filmed in a humana secondhand store in Berlin :)

[@cassandraralph5906]

I love the fashion of the 1950's right through to the late 1970's! I think that today's fashion trends are mostly absolutely awful, 😖! But Audrey Hepburn was a very beautiful fashion icon ❤️ 😍 💖!!!

[@oliviaglynn5697]

raissa bretaña is such a lovely person to listen to! She could read the drivers manual and I’d prob enjoy it🥰

[@bangtanismylife5455]

Actually, as beth grew up and met up with jolene, jolene said that beth turned out to be beautiful.

[@erikagehm2805]

I was impressed with how accurate these costumes were.

[@Tallblondy3]

So what I’m getting is that the costume design absolutely KILLED IT! 😊

[@katiebarnhartpercussion]

Spoiler alert when she starts talking about the second dress!

[@itsworkinprogress]

Thank you for this very good video and probz to the costume designer(s)! They have achieved a very beautiful, timeless, stylish look that really supports the story.

[@leibay03]

I love how Raissa always wears a matching brooch with the show/movie.

[@aisadal2521]

Always great to see Raissa fact check the fashion of tv shows 😁

[@tashikamala6917]

As a person who is highly interested in costume design and fashion history, I love these videos. I also really, truly love that the fashion historian is always wearing a pin that fits the story she is reviewing :D

[@pinkywinky911]

One of the best series of 2020. Can’t recommend this show enough 😍

[@pavladavlas]

I would *love* to see her react to the costumes in Babylon Berlin! It’s a German series set in 1920s Berlin and the costumes and series as a whole are simply phenomenal!

[@josephinemeade9444]

Thus was beautiful and now I need to rewatch and appreciate every outfit on screen 📺

[@Thisplaceisaprison3912]

I thought the green outfits were grey 🤷🏼‍♀️

[@lindalai6795]

She really rocked the red hair... so pretty

[@danirahernandez383]

I love so much the costume design of this series. ❤❤❤

[@geegee_509]

This just made me appreciate the show that much more.

[@EggieMeggieX]

So basically, wardrobe did a good job.

[@neilfortin7929]

Love the illustrations and the host! Go raissa and andy!

[@TheCet93]

I HATED that the white chess queen outfit mixed optic white pants with a more creamy white coat and beret. They should have all been the same shade of white.

[@Felipe3Goto]

Raissa’s mind is 🤯 This is one of my favourite episodes so far!

[@KCharmed04]

Would love to see you do Agent Carter and the final season of Agents of Shield

[@kimwassenberghull4064]

Is that her black and white checked dress on the mannequin next to the plaid pinafore???

[@illfayted]

It is! I didn't notice it until I watched this video. Do you think the little black dress on the other mannequin appears somewhere in the series?

[@808satsuki]

Please do The 2004 Phantom of the Opera

[@drsyedabukhari3769]

i love kate fashion sense queen elizabeth true great character and i am not alcholoic an di am perfectionist

[@loydamedina235]

She did not imitated other fashion women, she just was following the fashion of her era!

[@williamboutin8110]

This was very interesting a part 2 would be AMAZING

[@drsyedabukhari3769]

this is my life story actually in uk defamation case won actually

[@julietteangeli]

Raissa Bretaña is fantastic! I always click when I see there is a new video with her.

[@andrewviscountdeloire6756]

Please make a video of Maria Callas style in and out of the stage. The customs of Medea are pure art, only you can take this type of challenge. I love your videos and you are great in your field.

[@Alicia-rn8bg]

Females assemble!! We need to bring this fashion back. I beg you

[@jeppyderudar]

I love her outfits throughout the series! ♡

[@Deltadivaix]

If you haven't watched the show yet, don't watch this. Spoilers.

[@carissanami5824]

miss, can you please replace my boring history teacher? Love you xx

[@Ryanmanification]

Ah. New video with my favourite historian

[@pcbassoon3892]

I just realized that the young actress in the red dress, Diana Rigg, played Olenna Tyrell in Game of Thrones.

[@stelliferousoofer9044]

the actor is super pretty but she drinks so much alcohol, does drugs, and spokes. Most unrealistic thing about this show.

[@Clearoutcloset]

More of these please!

[@barbaramarina0]

the next in line of succession for the queen of period pieces

[@terriashby1285]

A fashion historian should know that panty hose didn't really get big- especially in less populated cities- until mid- to late 60's.

[@jessicavictoriacarrillo7254]

Do Mrs America (all the characters)

[@lyraconstantino2916]

costume designers are amazing

[@surfwriter8461]

This is an interesting analysis of Beth Harmon's wardrobe and overall style as it evolves during her coming of age story and in her battle with inner demons. I don't recall seeing Beth reading fashion magazines during the series, so how are we to assume she keeps up with fashion trends and adopts her own style? I know she was attuned to fashion she sees in store windows and by shopping. But it's not entirely clear how she informed herself and kept up with trends.

[@PetWessman]

These videos are sooo good, Raissa deserves better lighting and a narrator who will spit out whatever she has in her mouth. 😂

[@casperxo99]

I didn't think I could like this series even more than I already do until I watched this

[@todaystrends8939]

This is absolutely stunning 🤩 #lanydon

[@IsisMusic]

Well done, very interresting

[@natalieschilling9509]

Please do Bridgerton next!

[@amorfatikhb]

i adore this analysis

[@thatbee3585]

I’m insured to watch Queens Gambit after watching this . So thank you

[@catherinegardner8407]

I want Beth's coats!

[@claudiamak13]

on 13:12, it is mentioned that the turtleneck is black when in 13:43 you can see that it is actually green

[@arthurianking9776]

Please do the Marvelous Mrs. Maisel

[@ravenwood3695]

I loved the show and this was very interesting, thank you. 😊

[@mazzy18]

Both the historian in this video and Anya are absolutely stunningggg 😍😍

[@moosehorse9972]

The actress that plays the character fits the character so well!

[@nehaudawela5456]

omg did ya'll see her nails?

[@littlefrog6435]

Girl why her lil drawing like 🕺

[@Tellittothefireflies]

i'm not one who's used to leaving negative comments in videos, and this very much doesn't have to do much with the video, but i think the person's voiceover sounds really out of place for this video. the audio quality is really bad, and the contrast with the fashion historian and other clips makes it more noticeable. not sure why i'm adding this and no one asked for my opinion, but perhaps in new upcoming videos the editors or voice actor could take this into account for nicer quality!

[@daveprice5911]

Man this was interesting but she was wayyy to factual without any opinions or actual judgements being made. Like I love the analysis but the title feels misleading

[@kittymcmeowmeow1]

The title is a fashion historian fact checking, so I don't understand how it could be too factual when the entire point is being historically and factually correct

[@luvpotion9]

if you haven’t checked out the channel of Mina Le i highly recommend it she did a video on the queens gambit a while back and its better than this one imo

[@daveprice5911]

@@kittymcmeowmeow1 i phrased myself very poorly. She rarely actually says "this is accurate here's why or this is inaccurate here's why", instead it's so. I don't know. It annoys me that she doesn't come out and say it and then be like "here's what it'd actually look like" and THEN we get the sketches. other fashion historians on youtube have spoiled me I guess 🤷‍♂️

[@brokencandy1797]

I kinda don't care for the fact that Taylor-Joy insisted her character be attractive. Can't we have stories about women that aren't about how she looks? Beth doesn't have to be beautiful to be interesting.

[@yaraviera4444]

Each clothes i love ❤️ please bring this clothes to the present maybe next year..2024..

[@susanstein6604]

It’s also perfect in Moscow in Winter. They’re also perfect colors for r someone with fair skin and red hair.

[@louismargherini6183]

Please do Vikings ! There is many things to say about the accuracy of the costumes...