Glue On Car Door Bottoms with Panel Adhesive - No Welding!

Clearly demonstrates how to glue on car or truck door bottoms or patch panels using panel/structural adhesive for a long lasting, completely invisible repair. No welding required!
Tools and Materials:
Air Hammer Sheet Metal Ripper: shop.snapon.com/product/Sheet...
7" Vertical Sander/Grinder: Sioux Model 5280
Trim Removal Tool: EZ Strip II Molding Tool Kit - (Similar to the one I'm using)
New Door Bottom: raybuck.com/product/1988-98-c...
Panel Adhesive: www.semproducts.com/product/d...
Filler: autobodymaster.com/product_lis...
Metal Spreaders: www.autobodytoolmart.com/prod...
Cheese Grater Blade: Stanley 21-299 10-Inch Surform Half Round Regular Cut Replacement Blade
Air FIle: Viking V100
Primer: Auto Body Master Lacquer Primer Surfacer from local Auto Value Auto Parts store
/ @lakesideautobody

[@WiseOne6969]

You have taught me a lot and saved me ton of money. I've replaced the inner, middle, and outer rocker, cab corners, and will be doing door skins soon on an 06 Ram that has been damaged by Michigan road salt. She still runs great and these repairs will keep it looking good for a number of years. Thanks making these videos.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome. Thanks for the support and watching the channel - you're a Wise One!

[@1hjehje]

My father taught me how to do bodywork when I was young, and these sort of repairs were very common as I lived in the rust belt of Canada; Nova Scotia. That was 50 years ago, and panel adhesive didn't exist at that time. If it was available then, I would have used my fair share of it :-). Thank you for the video.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - that's a great thing for a dad to do for a kid - teach him/her a trade. Good memories :)

[@randolphferguson3202]

Best real world body work channel on the internet, thank you for all your fine videos.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks a lot Randolph - I appreciate that. Hope to upload many more. Have a good week :)

[@gravelcreekfarms3850]

Love the videos you remind me of a good friend that has passed who had taught me how to do body and paint work 30yrs ago. Thanks for all the time spent putting these out👍🏻

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad you like them. Happy Holidays :)

[@billautomaton5998]

I was always intimidated by body work. I came across your channel and it has really helped me to get over that fear. Thank you so much!

[@LakesideAutobody]

So happy to hear that - that's my goal. Ask questions - any topic / any video - I'll get you the simple truth to that question.

[@billautomaton5998]

@@LakesideAutobody Thx much!

[@johnnylarue6016]

....and now we know. Thanks for passing on your craftsmanship. Nicely done!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - Happy Holidays - thanks for watching :)

[@tony1798]

Right to the point, clear and easy to understand. NICE JOB..

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thank you - Happy Holidays :)

[@AndysDogHouse]

Hey Lakeside. I never heard of gluing a panel on before . But it worked and that is all that counts. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

It's one method that is being used in shops in Michigan. Just another option to have in your mental toolbox. Happy Holidays :)

[@moparnut6286]

That was a great video again you taught me something! I used Lord fusor panel adhesive to secure the side window plugs that go on my 74 charger se to make a smooth non vinyl top car and it been there for 5 yrs going strong! Thanks for showing to angle the dolly while folding over the door skin I was wondering why I got a few dings the last time I did a door skin now I know! Have a great weekend man!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I've dented plenty of door skins myself - you have a great weekend too my friend and Happy Holidays.

[@billb8788]

Thanks for the informative videos you put out. I was going to do this this summer so thanks for the information. People don't realize that panel adhesive has been around for a while and most major manufacturers use it on new car construction. Great Channel thanks from northern Canada

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - I'd love to get up to northern Canada one day. Bet it's beautiful in the winter :)

[@spelunkerd]

It's always a pleasure to see how a pro can do this so efficiently, with an end result that will hold up long past the lifetime of the vehicle.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate the support Spelunkerd - you're right about the longevity :)

[@thelizardking8525]

I just been schooled. Thanks for sharing your video!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad you liked it - Happy New Year Victor :)

[@stephenandloriyoung5716]

I like it. I was pretty impressed many years ago to see a home made door bottom panel installed on a Chevy sedan using silicone sealer. Speaking of sealer, you passed up an opportunity to put it along the fold-over edges. I guess you don't hate rust as bad as I do.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I used to do that at shops I worked at but I found that squirting some oil inside the door after paint permanently stops rust in the fold or pinch weld - plus it looks cleaner w/o the seam sealer. see this video on that idea: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2GYlYGuqZKhjMU

[@jdwisdom9433]

A real time saver as well as a warp saver. Thank You! JD

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome :)

[@jimurrata6785]

Great tutorial Jerry! Easy to see you have a lifetime of experience in the trade, and I appreciate you sharing it. Merry Christmas to you and yours! 🌲

[@LakesideAutobody]

I appreciate that - Merry Christmas to you and yours also :)

[@mathesiain6644]

Good job on the video. I usually don’t say much but as someone who has done this a ton of times in the last 15 years, do not do this on a panel that the bonded line will show. It will expand in the heat and you will see a line. Also make sure to cover all bare metal with the bonding material, the bare metal will rust if left raw. This video was done well and the panel bond is hidden by a molding. Anyone thinking of this trust me it is strong as any weld of done right.

[@LakesideAutobody]

If you make sure the seam is sub surface (knock it down and fill) it wont show. Same with welding, you have to knock the seam down then fill. The biggest mistake is having a seam too close to the surface.

[@danielschwarz3066]

I used jb weld (from your previous post) took some time, worked out fine. Thank you

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good to hear it worked for you. I think it works fine too :)

[@jeffreylonigro1382]

Haha...I have a Martin Doorskin hammer and love it. And I usually put enough SEM on the edge it squeezes out as I skin the door and then I smooth it out and it acts like seam-sealer.

[@patrickpeterman4890]

AMAZING,JERRY, YOU JUST SAVED ME A TON OF WORK; TAKE CARE MY FRIEND, PATRICK.P

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good to hear - Happy Holidays :)

[@robertlipscomb9741]

What an inspirational job, thanks for another great video

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks and you're welcome. Happy Holidays :)

[@markatkinson813]

Great content Lakeside....with used truck prices at the insane level, I'll be refurbishing and keeping my old '98 Silverado

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Mark. This one has 275,000 and it runs just fine. A lot of folks get way more than that too - like 500,000.

[@paulmoffat9306]

I had a Mustang Grande, back in the 70's. Opened the passenger door to bet a friend in, and the bottom fell off into the snow! (Up in the snow and salt zone!). I repaired it by removing the door and taking it inside my place of work (It was still winter), where I formed a new bottom and welded in place, and finished - worked quite well. Despite using the 'state of the art' Zebart Rustproofing when I purchased the car (new). Worthless guarantee!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Those were nice looking Mustangs - kids had them when I went to high school - had big fat tires on the back, air shocks, etc.

[@vincentpistritto250]

Wow!.. you make it look so easy.. you inspired me to try this on mine... thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks and you're welcome Vincent :)

[@joelkoonce8559]

Thanks again Jerry. I always appreciate Your practical and honest advice.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - thanks for watching Joel :)

[@aljones9866]

Another great video Jerry . Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Al - Merry Christmas :)

[@johnf6267]

Warching an artist.years of experience making it look easy.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks John - enjoy the rest of the week my friend :)

[@v8man350]

Excellent stuff Jerry another simply explained how to do it video. Merry Christmas and a Happy New year 🎄🦃👍🏻

[@LakesideAutobody]

Merry Christmas to you too - glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for the support - Jerry

[@93sundance]

This is more like the way I was taught in school back in the late 80's. Good enough for an old truck you want to keep around awhile longer.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Stay tuned for the follow up video coming soon. 3 years now driving all winter - looks fine :)

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

Another great video Jerry! Great tip for us beginners about the angle to hold the dolly when bending the panel edge over! Also appreciate info on tapping down lap joint and rivets at the seam after replacing screws.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Uncle Mark - always good to hear from you my friend :)

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

@@LakesideAutobody Always great to hear from you as well! You do give some great tips! I am taking notes!

[@worshipwhilewewait]

...dang you make that look easy! Gotta LOVE a pro that KNOWS what they're doing! Helps having that truck up in the air, too. Can't wait to try it on my S10 - THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're right about having it up in the air - just makes the job a lot more enjoyable. Good luck on your S10 - good looking trucks that last forever :)

[@philliparthur8672]

You really do excellent work, and I just inherited a truck from my dad (he passed away) that next summer I'm going to do quite a bit of body work to restore. Thanks for the videos and glad I subscribed.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - sorry to hear about your dad. I'm glad you subscribed too. Ask any ?s you have on any video - I get to them once a day :)

[@philliparthur8672]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you and I'm sure I'll have some questions. I've never welded before and don't have access but glueing and body work I can do. Thanks again for responding.

[@mikesawyer4707]

The extra care given to your work really stands out to me. And when you have a finished product and the light hits that surface details count. Great work sir. God bless.

[@LakesideAutobody]

God bless you too my friend - thanks for the kind words. Enjoy the rest of the week :)

[@Mikefngarage]

GREAT REALISTIC REPAIR...the fact that you didn't WELD will hold up better in those rust belt areas. IMO...For rusted out repairs this is great info especially for the DIY guy. who just wants to get a few more years out of his car. the heat from welding accelerates the rusting process.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks 👍 for the comment and input. Happy Holidays - always good to hear from you :)

[@mustangnotch]

Thank you! You make it look easy.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - Happy Holidays :)

[@husky1232]

Thank you Jerry very informative

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - Happy Holidays and have a good weekend:)

[@johnsutter1497]

Wishing you and your family a Merry Christmas!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Merry Christmas to you and your family too - good to hear from you :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

Great job Jerry you really make it look to easy!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks UPK - hope all is well - looking forward to your next video. Merry Christmas :)

[@UndergroundPaintKing]

@@LakesideAutobody thanks Jerry and Merry Christmas to you as well!

[@garyburgess3829]

Looks good Jerry!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Gary - Happy Holidays to you and your family :)

[@trudge84]

Great video. I learned something. Thanks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

That's good to hear - you're welcome :)

[@unclemarksdiyauto]

I learn something every time, Jerry!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good to hear Uncle Mark - I appreciate you checking it out :)

[@chrisfreemesser5707]

You make it look easy sir!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks for the support and Happy Holidays to you and your family.

[@dalemihocik4732]

You are a true artist , Merry Christmas .

[@LakesideAutobody]

Merry Christmas to you too and thanks - that's nice of you to say :)

[@DCopp]

Love that era Silverado. You'd never know there is a riveted panel under that trim

[@LakesideAutobody]

All the trucks from the 90's were pretty tough looking. I like the 94-96 f-150s too - good looking tough trucks. Merry Christmas :)

[@TallStarlite]

You definitely know your apples and oranges Good job! I doubt that'll even rust out Compared to welding !

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yep - no worrying about that seem. That'll last as long as a new door.

[@gnohn9366]

Good video, On my O4 gmc the door panels are the only parts that didn’t rust out.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Cars all have their strong points and weak points when it comes to rust.

[@hddm3]

Awsome man. Merry Christmas! God bless

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - I appreciate that - Merry Christmas to you too :)

[@tommykirrane653]

I have to share this channel with my great nephew, so he can learn what not to do! No Idea what his first automobile will be, but I promise it won't be butchered together with glue!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Unfortunately in the future it will be know as the best way due to the water tight seam - never have to worry about it again. Here's proof & in a few years I'll do another follow up vid on it again - it will look the same - kzbin.info/www/bejne/nXq2YoeYq5x-rNk Remember, to be the best at anything, you always have to be willing to learn :)

[@jesusbrito59]

Great work as always! Can you glue replacement panels on rear side wheels? Got a caravan that could use a replacement panel and was wondering if it will hold as well. Happy holidays!

[@LakesideAutobody]

It will hold. This stuff is made to endure accidents. It's a "structural" adhesive. I will be doing a video on wheel well patch panels using structural adhesive - not real clear on how soon though. Happy Holidays to you and your family.

[@curtismuma1931]

Great job bud ! My 2007 chevy work Truck could sure use you. My new frontier is vintage stereo repairs. From the late 70s. Its easier on my bad back

[@LakesideAutobody]

Was that Nissan Frontier made in Tennessee?

[@JSCB-365]

Great video, Im working on my vehicle at an RV park so I don't have access to my welders, planning to use panel adhesive to install new sheet metal for rust removal

[@LakesideAutobody]

Feel free to ask questions if you have them. I get to the comments 1-2 times a day. Let me know how it goes :)

[@JSCB-365]

@@LakesideAutobody keep tuned to my channel the body work starts in the next few weeks. The truck has had a lot of projects that I'm wrapping up.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@JSCB-365 I'll check it out - nice talking to you - Jerry

[@guillermonieri4203]

Great idea. Thank you.

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome :)

[@davidburman451]

Did rockers and cab corners on my old 97 f150 this way. It was a work truk so I had nothing to loose. Junked it 7 years later when the frame rotted out but my earlier repair never failed.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I don't know why trucks today rust so fast - really. For the cost, they should be rust free for at least ten years :)

[@davidburman451]

@@LakesideAutobody my 97 didnt hit the bone yard until 2018 so with a lot of work it did go 20yrs. But I worked at LKQ up here in Canada at the time and got a replacement rust free box really cheap and put it on myself. I was careful to salvage the bed bolts ....all in perfect condition and just used new metric nuts on them. Most owners just dont have to opportunity or ability to do that. The new bolt set is $120.00 alone The old bed was just horrible...salt roads here in Ontario. That said it was the V6 5sp with short cab short box....a great truck that ran each day I had it.... I even thought about pullin the cab and doing the frame but instead bought an 04 f150 originally from Florida and amazing rust free. But its got the 5.4 triton nightmare...already spent over $ 6.000 since I bought it just to keep it going . Wish Id fixed the 97.......

[@technicalitems731]

You don’t F* around. “Get it done” mentality. My older cousin (pushing 80) always told me about his work for GE nuclear and aircraft repair. He told me about 3M brand and similar coming up with metal bonding adhesives for Nuclear stuff as well as airplanes. He said the aircraft industry was soooo skeptical of metal bonding adhesives and how it took many years for them to catch on. He doesn’t mess around with Internet but, I told him about your panel adhesive methods. He said it should works well within the bounds of budget and time. He said that welding just creates more heat damaged metal on the backside for rust! He said it’s a body, not a frame! Your videos are needed by the world of DIY guys. Good work! Keep it up.

[@LakesideAutobody]

He's right. I do think this will be the way all shops will deal with rust in the future. Thanks for the support my friend :)

[@ipwee]

Well that does it. In 1980 I replaced the passenger door lower panel on my 1963 chevy by welding it. It seems like it took forever. 40 years later I need to do the driver's side. I think I'll go with the jb weld and pop rivets in lieu of the pro stuff. Primarily because I don't want to invest in the gun and mixer tubes for a one-time shot. After 40 plus years of wrenching and bodywork, I am done with it. Thank you very much for your video series.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Your welcome - I have complete confidence in the JB weld. Not sure if you've seen this video yet but it's holding up real well after almost two winters. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYPPYoScoNd1m7s

[@ipwee]

@@LakesideAutobody I did watch your video on the JB weld. Thank you for that as well as the reply.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@ipwee You're welcome - have a good week :)

[@pstreetgarage7304]

Amazing product. Amazing instructions as always. Question... Do you really need to keep the rivets once the adhesive sets up ??? Have a great weekend.!!

[@LakesideAutobody]

I wouldn't worry about leaving the rivets out. It'd be fine w/o them.

[@pstreetgarage7304]

@@LakesideAutobody 👍👍👍

[@bladder1010]

That is going to look excellent.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I haven't even painted it yet - been so busy. It's holding up just fine after two years of driving it in Michigan salt. I'll be doing the videos on painting it soon :)

[@stoneblue1795]

Funny, I have that same Stanley cheese grater probably still with the handle somewhere, have had it since the later 1970's. I have the same red (Rodak ?) air sander too.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yea!! Rodac. Those were good air tools - back in the old days they were made in USA - yours might be a USA model --- $ :)

[@duckhunter8387]

Fantastic! Can this (glue on) method be used for rusted out Truck Bed wheel wells?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - I will be doing a video on that exact topic very soon. Wheel well patch on a 1990's Chevy Silverado. Have a good week :)

[@shutthetv]

Thanks for sharing!

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome :)

[@danelobe2524]

I just sold my welder !! Adhesive all the way !

[@LakesideAutobody]

I know right. No worries about rust in the seam ever again. The only disadvantage is the glue is pricey and you have to be quite creative on some patches. I use adhesive for some, welder for others and still use fiber glass sometimes when appropriate. Have a good week :)

[@christopherwells372]

On the SEM product what do you use as a tip and manual tool? Web sites selling this product so far are not showing me the mixing tips that match..... Also how much of that tube did you use up on this project? I'm trying to gauge usage for my project.

[@LakesideAutobody]

They give you 2 mixing tips - you can buy packs of 10 at the SEM web site. I just squeeze some out and mix it like filler :)

[@David-kq9vp]

Nice job I have a question did you use stainless ribbit . I used aluminum ones with in a year the steal reacted to the aluminum and began to blister . I ended up grinding down the pannell and drilling out the area's an plug welding them an repainting the door

[@LakesideAutobody]

They are aluminum but the seam was knocked down - that my be the difference. It's been about two years driving in the winter and all is good. You actually don't have to use the rivets. It's OK to fill right over those little 1/8" holes as long as they are knocked down a bit :)

[@MrClarkisgod]

I did this on a Chevy C30 farm truck that was rotted much worse than yours. I used about $10 worth of Harbor Freight epoxy aka JB WELD. That was 6 years ago and it still looks perfect. Would it break off if somebody hit it? Possibly. It is structurally better and more aesthetically pleasing than a giant rust hole the entire length of the door bottom? You betcha. Great videos as always.

[@LakesideAutobody]

A lot of shops are using panel adhesive or impact resistant panel adhesive for rust repair - the manufacturers are using it to glue roofs, door panels, quarters, etc

[@codys3579]

I wish I would have known this when I replaced the lower quarter panel on my 68 Buick GS. I ended up doing the lap and weld method. Do you have a recommendation on an easier to work with filler thats better than just regular bondo.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I use the cheapest filler I can find. It's called Auto Body Master Light Weight Body Filler (Auto Value Stores) 19/gal. Anything will work really. Check out this video for sanding filler faster and easier : kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJ_JoImcact-pcU

[@martymurphy9627]

Thanks, Jerry. I have been curious of the gluing method and how well it holds up. It looks to me in some cases it is better then welding.

[@LakesideAutobody]

This adhesive is recommended for structural bonds - it is supposed to hold up in accidents. They actually don't want the body man to weld with this product - they recommend the rivets w/ glue.

[@Bzapp725]

What primer do you use that you can block with 120? If I'd do that with Sherwin Williams p30 the paint would eventually look terrible. Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Bzapp725 Lacquer primer surfacer but I've used all types - lacquer, polyester, urethane w same results. Here's the deal on that. You can even block primer with 80 grit if you have large areas - just stay off the paint. That being said, after you block your primer surfacer (doesn't matter what brand or type as long as it's professional stuff), you have to prime again and finish sand with 220-240 on a DA or hand sand w/ 320-400 wet or dry. Let me know it this solves your problem :)

[@Bzapp725]

@@LakesideAutobody So deep scratches are ok as long as they are in the primer or filler? I don't really want to spend time testing it but come to think of it ,on bad jobs I've seen, the scratches do appear beyond the edges of the filler.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Bzapp725 Yes - that's the problem. When guys block sand they always run the board into the paint and either don't fix it or miss it. I've primed over 80 grit scratches in primer thousands of times - you'll be fine. Rule of thumb: If you're going with 400 for your finish sanding, then everything has to be 400 grit when painting (primer and paint). I think I'll do a video on that topic - it can be confusing i.e. what would show up -what would not. Let me know how it goes for you :) Ask ?s if you have more - Jerry

[@SteveSummers]

Its easy to tell when a guy has done this before 👍

[@robertstaff]

Great! Was there any bonding of the folded over edge or is that just friction fitted?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Just friction fitted - sorry about the late reply - missed the comment.

[@rsprockets7846]

No corrosion. Paint on inner panel and seams? Gonna get wet and bubble from inside

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@rsprockets7846 Here's how I rust proof it: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2GYlYGuqZKhjMU

[@alcohotrods5481]

Loved this video the only thing I was wondering about was the rivets. If there aluminum they'll blister the bondo out after a few years

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you liked it. I'll do a video on the longevity of every repair on this truck in a couple years. It'll be fine. those rivets are sealed by glue, filler, primer, and paint - they won't blister.

[@jeffreykbevins7116]

What about using stainless steel rivets . I have used the stainless steel rivets in places where that I did not want them to rust.

[@carlthornton3076]

Very Good!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks!

[@martinneps9387]

Do you have a video on doing rockers rockers on a truck I have a 2001 Chevy S10 pick up that I have to do rockers I bought new rockers from LMC truck it's a truck and I want to replace them to replace them hoping you have a video thank you very much for the 2 videos that I've watched so far

[@LakesideAutobody]

Here's one on rocker rep - the process is similar for all rocker panels - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKeogYSforxobJY

[@martinneps9387]

@@LakesideAutobody I have both sides to replace on my S10 One side is a 3rd door 1And the other side is a regularI will try this on my truckThank you for this video

[@elou795]

Where did you get the patch panel, my 09 Silverado could use a few of these.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Raybuck.com

[@johnsutter1497]

Do you know of any other air tool manufacturers beside national Detroit that run tools on lower air pressure? Thank you Have A Merry Christmas!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Not really - your'e very welcome - Merry Christmas to you and your family :)

[@judo-drummerboy-tapout]

So I've got a 96 Chevy Express conversion man that's all done with my wheelchair left hand control excetera period under the two side doors to get into the middle of the van their rusting out on the bottom of the door the very bottom. Would this work also for that? I keep getting told that I need to buy new doors and that there's no way to fix the doors that are on it and I'm like the rust isn't all the way through number one and I don't I couldn't realize why you couldn't replace the metal with something. Anyway I seen this video and I was just wondering if it would do the same thing on the underside of the door

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - all rust holes can be fixed.

[@randymiller1604]

Awesome job nman

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Randy :)

[@kevinbortolussi1294]

did you you use addhesssive body glue to for the front of the door skin patch to seal together where the it does not bend over on the inside ...the front i mean where the door pin side it has factory weld

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - that was glued to the inner door panel. The inner and outer was clamped with glue using needle nose vise grips. Crazy how that doesn't fold over isn't it. Like the factory got lazy.

[@troymecey]

Weird , since I don't like doing body work, but you actually make it look enjoyable, lol

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Troy - have a good weekend :)

[@ronniejohnson317]

Is the adhesive similar to what the factory uses to install the roof? You have a talent that makes it look easy.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes, thanks for the support :)

[@m2useinu]

Nice!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - Happy Holidays :)

[@zambotv8150]

Are the pop rivets necessary? Great vid as ever

[@LakesideAutobody]

Not really. But... I know I would have got some comments on leaving the small holes so that sealed them up. Through the years a ton of trim was put on from the factory with clips that popped through holes so it's nothing to worry about. Panels rust because salt water and debris gets trapped and it stays moist behind the panel. Thanks for the support - Happy Holidays :)

[@zambotv8150]

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks so much for the reply, happy holidays to you and yours as well my friend, best regards from Scotland

[@johnbean9510]

Do you pound down the rivets and seam to create a depression for the filler? Please show how far you pound in.

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - you just have to tap the seam down beneath the original surface. Check this video out for more info on knocking down a seam: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kJikcmeGeZ14i9U

[@mccoma11]

Very good video, but I have one question. The seam would be proud of the original door skin unless you used a flange tool on it. I noticed you tapped it with a hammer along the rivets and the seem. Was this to push the new material down so it didn't end up too high? Sort of a cave & pave? Lol

[@LakesideAutobody]

Absolutely correct. I've found through years of studying rust repairs that the ones that show through the fastest are the ones where the seam is too close to the surface. Don't be afraid to tap the seam down and fill - It is the most quality repair and right way to do it. The glue is impact resistant so it will accept being knocked down. See these vids on longevity: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bonEi3WvbKx2baM or www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o37dX-

[@mccoma11]

@@LakesideAutobody I like that idea of squirting used oil in there. Should work good where I live here in WV. They use a lot of salt and the winters are a muddy, wet mess. I have several old fox mustangs and they love rotting at the door bottoms.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@mccoma11 This Kia never rusted - bought it new and did it from the beginning - perfect door bottoms etc : kzbin.info/www/bejne/r2GYlYGuqZKhjMU

[@805ROADKING]

Well done Bud!! Can't wait to see the comments on this one eh!!☺

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes - we'll see. Thanks and Happy Holidays :)

[@MrThenry1988]

Set it on the lot for sale.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@MrThenry1988 It's my car hauler truck. It's quite a solid old truck - everything works on it, real dependable, etc.

[@MrThenry1988]

@@LakesideAutobody lol. Awesome. I've seen these repairs done at little buy here pay her dealerships. Seen a 99 f250 with good rockers and cab corners at one. I'm in ohio and had to roll under it. Told me it was a Florida truck till I did. Lol. Good show sir.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@MrThenry1988 Yep - just have to look underneath at the crusty fuel and brake lines and imagine how fun it will be changing all that stuff :) Love the cool weather here in Michigan and the snow but dang it must be nice not to have to worry about rust - WOW! can you imagine turning a nut and it coming loose? Nice talking to you Tim - Jerry

[@ptravers9077]

The finish product looks good man .. I am more of a weld kinda guy .. just thinking would have been quicker to tack it weld a solid bead grind and sand .. no filler needed. I guess it is all up to the person I've just always felt the wait for the glue to set was the biggest deterrent. I know the glue is strong and that the rivets will hold . I guess I am old fashion

[@LakesideAutobody]

Here's an older video doing the way you like - only no grinding just knock the welds down and fill. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nIS3nIChhdeshrM Thanks for stopping by - Jerry

[@rodb8274]

The SEM bonding agent looks to be single stage. The 3M is 2 stage and I’ve heard it is very strong. I’m replacing about 2/3 of a damaged quarter panel on a Cavalier coupe body with a good used one. The horizontal seam is 55” long, so I need a strong bond. I plan on creating a 1/2” flange around the existing body cut line and clamping the glued seams with sheet metal screws. I’ll remove the screws and fill the holes with more panel bond. Then pray that the 3M glue holds tight and the paint won’t crack! Anyone tried this on such a long seam?

[@timothyburch9737]

nice

[@Sunrayman123]

You are a Master to the Disaster!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks SRM - have a good weekend :)

[@tomamilanovic3534]

I was wondering why you didn't use a flanging tool to join the old and new piece of metal, it might have reduced the amount of filler needed.. ???

[@LakesideAutobody]

You could do that - would look real neat too :) Might do a video like that one day :)

[@blackenigma1054]

where can i find the replacement door bottom you used in the video?

[@LakesideAutobody]

millsupply.com or raybuck.com

[@jonbradley4789]

I enjoyed the tutorial, but does this work in the rust belt? I saw a lot of exposed steel.

[@LakesideAutobody]

This is probably the longest lasting method - I live in Michigan and have been MIG welding rust holes my whole life and it does work great but the advantage here is a water tight seam.

[@jonbradley4789]

@@LakesideAutobody This has inspired me to do the floor pan of my 86 F150 using this method. I am pretty sure I will be doing some welding, but the seam bonding looks promising.

[@claudeladow2334]

But how to save rest of panel adhesive? Are extra nozzles available?

[@LakesideAutobody]

You can cap it (comes with it) and it does come with one extra nozzle. Or.... you can buy the nozzles in bulk :) Personally, I don't use the nozzles - just squirt it out like JB Weld and mix by hand - as if you are mixing body filler :)

[@jakesmith6337]

Does the bare metal need a sealer before filler or no ?

[@LakesideAutobody]

It does not. Paint seals everything underneath. Often times (working in a shop) If you were caught putting filler over anything but freshly sanded/grinded metal you'd be in trouble. Here's a video on that topic though for you to decide - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYfLgn-nhaZ6jLc

[@curtokay8046]

do you have any idea how far it goes or last, gig you have some leftover after the panel?

[@curtokay8046]

The glue sorry

[@LakesideAutobody]

I had about 1/2 of the product left after this job. I probably used a bit more than needed too :)

[@christopherwells372]

Do you grate the filler before it is totally hard?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes

[@aristofanissparos410]

what kind of glue you using? can you tell me.thancks

[@LakesideAutobody]

SEM Impact Resistant Panel Adhesive. All materials and tools are listed under the description :)

[@timothyburch9737]

that's intresting

[@markthompsoncpa]

Did you preheat the trim first??

[@LakesideAutobody]

No but if you remove it by hand that can sometimes make it easier :)

[@67polara]

My door bottoms have no 90-degree flange front or back only the bottom and they're longer than the door by a bunch. Generic I guess. Any idea how to bend over the metal on a sharp line 90-degrees like your panels came??

[@LakesideAutobody]

Watch this video when I bend the edge of the hood patch between two boards: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jHOvnXRji6aoqdk

[@Hunteratloppshop]

I'm curious. Why don't you use lightweight filler?

[@LakesideAutobody]

That is actually lightweight filler. Here's the brand - autobodymaster.com/product_list.jsp?PHPRJ_GROUP_ID=1868

[@Hunteratloppshop]

@@LakesideAutobody thank you sir!

[@squiggymcsquig6170]

Nicely done. But, you call that rusty? I'm from Detroit, and that's showroom fresh around here.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I'm from around the D too - you're right - that's just baby rust but the process is the same even if the whole bottom was gone. Might have to fix up the inner door panel a bit 'cause usually that's gone too. We lived on the East side - GPW - lived on the west side for a bit too Dearborn, Oak Park, and Southfield. Love that Parts Galore!

[@gravitystorm61158]

My 2000 F150 has that crap on the doors. My crewcab doors bump into each other and that glued on trim has started to come loose.

[@LakesideAutobody]

This probably isn't the same type of glue. This stuff is for body panels and never comes loose - I promise. The glue on trim is much weaker 'cause they know it has to be able to be removed.