Are You STILL Lubricating Your Bike Chain Incorrectly?

[@davidgolieri4218]

Both Silca and White Lightning Clean Lube (that I use) recommend cross chaining the gears and applying at the top of the rear cogs while back pedaling the chain. Cross chaining puts lateral tension on the links making it easier for the lube to get into the rollers. Keep in mind both of these lubes are drip wax. Thank you for the tech videos and keep them coming.

[@HunterAtheist]

@@davidgolieri4218 Thanks for this. That actually makes sense mechanically and I will be using this method in the future. Comment sections are the best. (Sometimes better than the video they pertain to.)

[@romanb3309]

@@davidgolieri4218 Actually, it depends on your drivetrain. I lube my 34T 11-51T drivetrain on the last 11T cog because I actually see the best turbulence (chain hopping a bit up and down) while pedalling FORWARD (not specially backward) slowly. Just switch between all the gears and look how does your chain move and you'll see the difference. What Silca video gave you is the basics to look at. Since there are a lot of types of drivetrains and varieties of 1x, 2x, different chainlines and chainstay length, there is no single solution. Just put your bike on the stand, shift through all gears and look how does your chain behave on every cog. If you're observant, you'll definitely see the difference and naturally choose the right gear for lubricating your precious chain-)

[@TroyKasper]

@@davidgolieri4218 This is the way.

[@romanb3309]

@@davidgolieri4218 Drivetrains differ. Since there are 1x, 2x, different max cog sizes, chainlines and chainstay length there is no single solution. What Silca video gave you is the basics to observe how does your chain behave. Just shift and observe the turbulence on each cog and you'll notice the difference. I prefer to lube my 34T 11-51T on the smallest 11T cog from the BOTTOM while pedalling FORWARD. The turbulence on that exact gear maks the chain to move up and down providing better chain lube penetration. Again, it works for my drivetrain setup but might not be the best for yours😉

[@lisapet160]

Good points in discussion. Combining various gear positions may yield better lube penetration between pins and rollers. As the result, the old school advise to spin at all gears "to lube cassette cogs" had practical sense. With incorrect reasoning though, but had.

[@crankshoptv]

Your chain doesn't have to be pristine clean, you're riding in the woods, not a laboratory. Microfibre with some brake cleaner on to clean off, dry lube with Anna's technique the night before your ride, wet lube if you're forecast rain. Keeping your chain relatively clean and a bit lubed will save you time and money in the long run. Over lubing is worse than under lubing. Live in the real world where riding your bike is more important than spending hours looking after a chain.

[@megane230f1]

Wd 40 has always worked fine for me im 47 and always used it, chain lubes 😂😂😂😂😂

[@HunterAtheist]

​@@megane230f1WD-40 is a Water Displacer, hence the name. It was the 40th formula created for a military contract. It's really good at removing water, but terrible at lubricating.

[@megane230f1]

@@HunterAtheist never had any problems, and ive been through and own a lot of bikes, they dont nickname it jack of all trades for nothing 👍

[@BaldKiwi117]

​@@megane230f1 you should give rock n roll gold lube a try one time. Cleans and lubricates at the same time.

[@agg25gga]

Wd40 or gt85 (was this the 85th attempt?) is better for the post ride wash down to get all the water off the chain after you've hosed it and wiped it over. You could then store it knowing it's not going to rust. I'd still lube it before a ride though

[@iyadkamhiyeh527]

for every new sponsor GMBN needs to make another video about Lube lol 😂

[@drumerboy456sx]

While it may sound redundant, it serve great purpose for new oncoming sport enthusiasts. Like my self as well, I’ve been riding and following this channel for years. I never knew the facts she just mentioned.

[@TheLion-b3h]

Theres a technique nobody shows off when lubing, it’s lubricate from the top just before the chain meets the rear cassette, shift to the lowest climbing gear, the chain naturally twists slightly from the front chainring to the rear cassette, separating and opening up the links just before the rear cassette is met, YOU LUBE RIGHT THERE, the lube runs straight through the chain links onto the rollers first go everytime, no need to lube the top and bottom of the chain run as the lube goes through to the rollers…TADAAAHH JOB DONE..👍🏾

[@Durwood71]

You don't need to lubricate the top and bottom anyway. Just a drop of lubricant on one side of each roller, cycle the chain through the drive train a several times, and the lubricant will easily penetrate where it needs to be through capillary action. Not that there's anything necessarily wrong with your method, but it's not necessary, either.

[@TheLion-b3h]

@@Durwood71 oh it’s perfectly necessary, and convenient, one shot one kill never missed a link method and quick.

[@Durwood71]

@@TheLion-b3h Nah, not necessary at all for the reasons I explained.

[@NRO416]

I like using contrasting colour quick links on my chains. Black link on a gold or silver chain is my favorite combo. Much easier to keep track of where I am on the chain when cleaning and lubing. I think it kinda looks cool too. 😊

[@MrLmb4682]

Been using ludicrous af and have been loving it . Great vid !

[@Durwood71]

I used to use the classic 3-in-One oil because it's cheap, readily available, and I figured it was a time tested formula that was good enough, but my chain was always noisy, and it deposited black gunk all over my drive train. So I switched to Wolf Tooth WT-1, and that stuff is _awesome!_ It lasts a long time, and it leaves my chain clean and quiet.

[@GregLanz]

I tried muc-off a few years ago and all it did was attract dirt and dust. It made a horrible mess and would gum up the derailleur and sprockets. The only good thing about it is it was so horrible it persuaded me to finally start waxing my chains. 5 years later and wax is all I use

[@TallPaulsCycles]

I published a video about this recently - Muc-Off wet lube is indeed awful stuff, creating a treacle-like mess that stops the chain moving freely.

[@artvandelay1720]

I had the same experience. The muc-off lube was incredibly hard to clean off and I bike in a really sandy area, so I burned through drivetrain components until I switched lubes.

[@iyadkamhiyeh527]

Muc off is overpriced garbage

[@petelewis1995]

I had the same experience with muc off wet lube keeping the rear cassette was a nightmare

[@romanb3309]

@@GregLanz Muc-Off C3 Ceramic works pretty good for me in dry conditions. That's not a GCN channel but GMBN. Do you ride your mountain bike for 300km with one lubrication?? 😆😆 Come on, I need to wash my XC bike after every ride and it can be even less than 40km. And I appreciate the opportunity to clean my drivetrain with a basic bike shampoo not using aggressive degreasers between each ride. Wax is good for asphalt road where your MTB should not be ridden.

[@andyarchitect]

Great job Anna😊 This was a much needed update to older videos on this topic.

[@plainuser48596]

They make this video at least 4 times a year but nothing changes for years in this topic, how exactly were other videos outdated and needed refresher (other than using their new sponsors?), also this video, much like every other is actually incorrect about the process in question

[@megatryn]

So basically what I've told customers since forever on how to care for your bike in 16 easy steps: After every ride: -Open beer -Drink a sip of beer -Hose down bike -Drink a sip of beer -Apply cleaning product -Drink a sip of beer -Use a brush bike -Drink a sip of beer -Hose down bike -Drink a sip of beer -Dry the bike with towel -Drink a sip of beer -Apply wax based chain lubricant -Finish beer while wax enters rollers and dries a bit -Dry off excess chain lubricant. -Done!

[@ttb1513]

You wax after every ride?

[@megatryn]

@@ttb1513 Yup. Clean and wax (dry lube Rock'n'Roll Gold) With or without beer.

[@ttb1513]

@@megatryn wow. I thought you didn’t have to re-wax that often. Is it as effective if I only do the beer part, after every ride?!

[@megatryn]

@@ttb1513 You need at least 6 beers to be as effective. Basically, when you wash your bike, you wash away the lubricant, which means you need to re-apply it. You don`t need much each time, but it ensures your drivetrain runs flawlessly for longer. I usually apply on the chain while pedalling backwards for one round of the chain, then spin the chain backwards for a couple of turns to help the lube enter the rollers and pins. Let it sit while I finnish my beer and then hold a rag on the lower chain while bakcspinning to remove any lube on the outside of the chain. Another upside of washing the bike and relubing after every ride, is that you can check the whole bike for cracks, creaks and damages when you dry it off and also it allways is ready to go out riding without having to fettle with it before a ride.

[@cbailey2376]

Use a craft beer to lube chain, let soak for 10 min , wipe off excess, drink excess. Done .🍺🍻

[@StevePhipps-ChasingTrails]

Smoove is the exception to wax needing applying more often. It lasts up to 500miles off road and more on road. Best one out there IMO.

[@ZenEndurance]

Overapplying wax drip on a dirty chain actually helps clean the chain overall. As it dries around dirt, the wax then eventually sheds and takes the dirt off with it. It's basic physics and it's fine.

[@themeatpopsicle]

I always tell my customers to lube AFTER a ride. And tbh I never recommend "wet" lube unless it's the most fastidious of riders that I know will clean their bikes regularly.

[@artvandelay1720]

I find it's only worth using wet lube if I'm riding around in the snow or otherwise getting my chain soaked a lot.

[@romanb3309]

All these advices are good! Especially lubing each link separately. You'll spend 1-2 minutes more to lube and save much much more to clean it after. And your drivetrain will be much more quieter and happy 😊

[@JeffMTBinVA]

Facts on that new chain grease. And if you get a new bike then it will likely have that new chain grease as well. I made that mistake with my first bike when I didn't know better. That black sludge is horrible.

[@petedog9581]

Each lube has its own application instructions on the bottle.

[@Mountain_Bikers_Paradise]

This is super cool. Now I know what I need to do for my bike. Also 36 On the Obia😍

[@chibani_gl]

I was in doubt of learning anything new when I clicked on the video, but how wrong was I. Thanks Anna for those explainations on the products compositions and how/why they behave for different conditions. Does that apply to other lube manufacturer or are those informations specific to Peaty's ?

[@jamesyee4143]

Thanks for that tip! Should lube be added to a new chain / new bike! 😮

[@wadedaw]

Go one link at a time - using the master link as a starting reference. It goes faster than you think

[@WesMacaulay]

For muddy or wet environments, waxes are great - they get in the rollers and keep out the grit. For dry or dusty environments, waxes are great - they provide an excellent low friction material for in-between the rollers and they keep out the grit. Lol. I use a drip wax on the mountain bike and it's brilliant. No oiling, ever, again. I would agree with the immersive waxing crowd that it's the best and drip waxing is the easier alternative.

[@diamondsink2000]

Even when cleaning and flushing the chain perfectly in a partwasher, with strong degreaser, if i use Peatys all weather the chain always goes black on the first ride.

[@ollimustonen]

REX Black Diamond drip. The best stuff!

[@andrewsonleitner9882]

You Should lube your chain while it's running over the top of the chain ring as it is running down this method allows the pin and rollers to open up getting the lube in there much better

[@BDazzle-i1k]

The most important step, much more than what kind of lube, where you apply it, etc. is to let the lube DRY!!!! I see so many people lube at the trailhead and just go ride. Talk about picking up dirt immediately. Some lubes say 3-4 hours and some the night before.

[@ZenEndurance]

Dries almost immediately when riding because of airflow.

[@ralva2779]

Great vid and instruction on how dry lube works. (I still favor wet lube because my shifting is silent- even if it requires more maintenance). 😎.

[@DizRidesMtb]

Luv the vids ANNA . thanks 😍

[@johngraham6506]

Do you need to add lube to both sides of the chain or is applying just on one side enough?

[@johnscranton8365]

Simple Green MAX is great for cleaning the bike transmission. Avoid getting this product on your paint... Let your chain dry after rinsing with water (not a high pressure blast). I use the hose without a nozzle. I like Maxima Chain Wax for bicycles. I use the dry blend for dusty conditions and the wet weather blend during rainy days. These both come in squirt bottles...

[@semadragun]

Thanks Anna! 🥰🙏

[@johnvine5731]

I just use cheap motor oil. Apply a liberal drop on the top AND bottom of every roller.

[@andrec.136]

I also lube the rollers individually rather than just going through the motions.

[@artvandelay1720]

Something I've wondered for a while is whether you can just use 80W90 oil as wet lube to save money. Is there really an advantage to bike-specific wet lube?

[@ianmacdonald487]

@artvandelay1720 Gear oil is too viscous. I use 10W-40, and wipe off the excess. Others may ridicule it, but I do everything by bike, and often ride on wet pavement, getting dirty water all over my chain as it is sprayed by my front tire. There's a lot of wiping and re-oiling involved in my maintenance.

[@No_ReGretzkys99]

Is it okay to use a wire brush to clean your chain??

[@skogling]

I think that the way you spray water on the cassette also will contaminate the rear rotor.

[@joewickie2376]

Back in the day, we would put used motor oil in a coffee can and heat it on the stove. Then soak chain.

[@scholotzkys395]

@@joewickie2376 that’s a bunch of heavy oil that has been contaminated with insanely sharp (on a microscopic level) pieces of carbon

[@danielbrunner7730]

@@scholotzkys395 it's also a well known carcinogen at this stage! I'm 45 and I used to go this as well as use wd40 for basically everything!

[@Durwood71]

That sounds horrible.

[@michavanbodegom1197]

on my bikes i use for sport i clean chain after a ride and lube it (my daily driver is just lubing it THOUGH i dont see any black gunk yet)

[@ericzingeler7140]

Apply to each roller one at a time? 🤨

[@theguardian908]

Put liquid wax in a small engine. It blew up. MTB experts said Wax was the superior lubricant to Oil.

[@TheCureThatKillz]

@4:27 I must admit that I’ve never really seen someone count to two on their fingers and use their middle finger for #1 and their pointer/index finger for #2. LOL a bit unorthodox but hey, it’s all good nothing wrong with that.

[@9livesMtb]

Ive always used wd40 once a week...on enduro and DH bikes..quick wipe with a cloth( assuming youve got a clean chain/recently washed!! ).3 rideouts a week..usually hot and dusty where i am...i havent had a chain break in 15 years..xx1 chains last at least around 2.5 years with moderate klm every week..for me theres no need to complicate things more😈🤟🤟

[@anthracitemafia]

Keep it Lubed!!!

[@jeanmarc_in_Hudson]

Great info, thanks 👍

[@gmbntech]

Thanks for watching!

[@johnssmith4005]

Wait you guys are lubricating your chains ?

[@iyadkamhiyeh527]

😂😂😂😂

[@m1nusasusplus897]

If you use only 1 drop to each link - you have to relube your chain in 50km, otherwise it will be complitely dry.

[@user-zd6tf2qj6w]

건식은 솔벤트 중에 왁스를 부유시켜 윤활하는 원리이므로 사용 전 흔들어야 한다. 또한 솔벤트가 마를때까지 기다려야하므로 라이딩 전날밤에 뿌리는게 좋다. 습식은 오일 베이스이므로 뿌리고 바로 라이딩을 가도 되지만 자주 청소해줘야한다. 더러운 체인에 루브를 뿌리는 것은 더 많은 grinding 페이스트를 만들어 마모를 가속시킨다.

[@eartharrow6772]

Im still using WD40 for cleaning and 3in1 for everything else. it's a bike FFS

[@garrettkensler451]

I've been doing it wrong all along. Haha! Thanks!

[@gmbntech]

No worries!

[@MrRossi78]

Good shake

[@chrisg1234fly]

i live and ride in a desert envirornment. whats is best to use?

[@ericpmoss]

Wax for dry and dusty, oil-based for rainy.

[@chrisg1234fly]

@@ericpmoss thanks

[@ageofsigmar7236]

Wanted the lube to shake well?! Just drop 1 or 2 steel bearings inside problem solved 😊

[@LaurentiusTriarius]

Immersive wax and forget about all that. It's not harder it's easier and cleaner.

[@texaswunderkind]

I put the bike up on a stand, pedal super fast, and spray the shit out of everything with WD-40. I have never had a chain wear out ever.

[@cbailey2376]

How are your brakes?

[@texaswunderkind]

@@cbailey2376 What brakes?

[@cbailey2376]

@@texaswunderkind 😄🚲

[@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589]

Immersion wax. The end.

[@stupidchicken03]

Diddy knows all about different kinds of lube 😅

[@BaldKiwi117]

Rock n roll gold lube is the best all purpose. It's so easy and effective

[@hectorhernandez1664]

Huge disagree. I listened to the hype and all the recommendations for that lube and found out quick that any kind of moisture even a foggy day will completely wash away it away. Super dry conditions sure it’s good but far from an all purpose lube

[@earthcrawler1159]

I use engine oil

[@kalijasin]

“not getting the best from their action” 🤨

[@danalbert5785]

OK, so I am going on a ride with a filthy chain today! Do I lubricate that filthy chain before the ride or do I leave it alone and ride a dirty chain dry? Do I use a wet lube or a dry lube on this truly filthy chain? Does it matter, just ride? Or do I forget it and sit on the couch and read a book.

[@ericpmoss]

If today’s ride is dry and/or dusty, use a wax lube. Some of the gunk will fall off with the wax.

[@Durwood71]

Correct answer is to at least wipe your chain off with a rag so it's no longer filthy, and then apply the lubricant of your choice. Personally, I prefer a wet lube since it will work in all weather conditions, and I don't ever have to worry about it washing off if I happen to splash through a puddle.

[@Arykperry]

Wow there sure is a lot of lube experts in here

[@frankharradence732]

My local trail is at Thetford Forest, mostly dry, sandy single track with added areas of pine needles over soft ground. Oil based lubes act as sponge soaking up these trail conditions into a chain destroying paste. However, regular cleaning and applying Peaty's Dry Lube is a game changer; extended chain/sprocket life with no sandy grinding paste anymore, so much so that I'm applying it to my road and gravel bikes....its a game changer.

[@highentropy2468]

Big up Thetford! Used to be my local trail growing up in Bury. I'm now living down in Surrey so I have the Surrey Hills at my disposal but Thetford will always have a place in my heart. The Beast!

[@frankharradence5546]

@@highentropy2468 ha ha…yes the Beast…always fun, trying slightly different lines…avoiding the sniper tree roots!

[@gmbntech]

Those are great trails! But you right there is no shortage of sand and pine needles 😂

[@nickclarkuk]

Thanks , I’ve clearly been putting too much lube on my chain !

[@gmbntech]

You should start saving some pennies now!

[@chrisleech333]

It's my bike I'll do what I want

[@Chops00]

I don’t do it.

[@Hertzultra]

Don't lubricate Just Go Carbon when I finally got around to doing that it saved me MONEY, MESS, and TIME WASTED.

[@LeeHolden-o1b]

Top tip You never have to ever lubricant your bike chain Try it

[@Durwood71]

Technically, this is true, but it's not recommended.

[@larryt.atcycleitalia5786]

TWO WORDS (based on decades of maintaining bicycles) the first one is BULL, you can guess the other. I've never been part of the wax-cult but simply dripping on some OIL (dunno why you want to shake it up?) onto the chain when it looks or sounds dry (after wiping it off first) while spinning the cranks, then wiping off the excess just WORKS. No big deal. Measure the wear and when it gets to 1/2 worn, simply replace it BEFORE any of the other components get worn. Chains are cheap and easily replaceable, so why people want to obsess over them and waste a bunch of nasty solvents in the process escapes me.

[@pukki34]

Hot wax. Forget the oils

[@cristhianserpa]

This advice to only lubricate the inner part of the chain is not too good for commuters. My bike stays outside basically every day of the year, under rain, snow, and any other weather. If you only lubricate the links, the sides of your chain will rust...

[@semadragun]

The advice is good because the rollers are the moving parts, but in your situation i would use something like INOX MX3 lubricant for the outside of your chain for it repels water really well. You could even use it for the chaln rollers also.

[@cristhianserpa]

@@semadragun like I said it wasn't great for commuters. It might be good advice for people riding for sport and not so often. For commuters my only advice is, ride your current bike until it turns to dust and then buy a new (or used) bike with belt drive.

[@leestewart9002]

@@cristhianserpa the way she showed you is the best way it covers all the chain not just the inside

[@elmomos]

Even my mtb used only for weekend rides tends to rust if I degrease the chain without putting back a thin layer of dry lubricant on the side of the links...

[@MrWarn2499]

👍

[@fudganuld]

All those 'lube' products are just robbing you..I've always used just OIL on my chains,been riding decades without any issues..The main thing is to dry your chain after you oil it..Ha!

[@Turbalt141]

Nothing like riding a dry/dusty environment with "oil" on your chain. Enjoy the sandpaper running through your cassette.

[@stevencole7331]

I hear you my squirt lube wax in the microwave and then give it a shake before I apply . I then put a drop on each link then I take my thumb an index finger placing them on top and bottom of chain then rotate pressing the lube into every link

[@daviddoherty4429]

Bollocks, dab some engine oil on it after every clean. Why spend money on fancy lube it's only bike chain I never oil mine for a whole year riding every day

[@halfbrain86]

hey, psst...one word: wax

[@tonkshred]

Y the zoom in on demonstrations to shake bottles i need to know what facial expression to make 😢😢😢😊

[@adamcharles9090]

Hot immersion wax or you are doing it wrong :)

[@stenseemann8614]

@@adamcharles9090 Totally agree. It is a shame the bike chain manufacturers don't hot wax dip all their performance chains instead of grease. There have been good studies showing nothing compares to hot wax dip, providing something ridiculous like 300% drive train life. It is actually a big time saver in the long run. So strange that rental shops and demo vans haven't figured this out It provides a smooth and quiet ride too. My dad made up his own hot wax concoction starting around 1980, paraffin and molybdenum sulfide powder. These days there are good commercial products pre mixed.

[@Chris-sf2cp]

Peatys product placement

[@Styrleden]

Sure but peatys are one of the Chanels sponsors

[@Chris-sf2cp]

@@Styrleden geese you think ?

[@gregknipe8772]

its long past time for a "how to shave your legs" videos so that wax folks can two things 'right'.

[@jayhoughton4174]

Another you’re lubing incorrectly video 😂 we all know you just need to use WD40, Si told us 10 years ago 😂

[@iyadkamhiyeh527]

They need a new video for the new sponsor 😂😂😂

[@gmbntech]

WD40 can be used on bike chains, but anything that is an aerosol spray 'lube/protector' should be applied far away from your brakes 👍 It's good practice to use bike specific product on your bikes!

[@nerdfacellc]

Great video except the slow motion shake. Seriously. How is that needed and tell me that they would have done that with past presenters.

[@gmbntech]

It is to show the Wax and the Carrier agent mixing 👍

[@davideades4839]

Every single chain manufacturer advises against decreasing new chains advising it will increase wear. It would be great if GCN would stop constantly providing misinformation do demo over consuming unnecessary bike products. If you use a good wet lube correctly, 😢so sparingly applying only when you start to hear the chain, then dragging the chain through a dry rag to remove the excess your drivetrain will be just fine. I'm a mechanic for over 25 years riding year round in Vancouver BC Canada. It's not complicated or costly to maintain your chains properly.

[@clayquarles8650]

@@davideades4839 Terrible advice for a sandy environment though.. Your method wouldn't work in Florida.. Every place is different with different conditions on different days. Wax works amazingly well here, and any oil is horrible... Another opinion.

[@davideades4839]

@clayquarles8650 you don't know anything about my area. In the summer, it dries out completely. Our provice has major problems with forest fires destroying entire cities because of how dry the forest floor gets. My method does work, and I can get over 20,000 km out of a 9 spd chain and have for decades. I imagine I'm a lot more in tune with how my bike is running and what it needs than you are. Speaking as a bike mechanic it amazes me how few so called enthusiasts can't manage the simple process of maintaining a chain properly, quickly and easily.

[@plainuser48596]

Again and again you're showing the same mistake and call it "best practice". Actually, the best practice is to clean and lube the chain OFF THE BIKE. That way you're not leaving excessive lube on everything around, not to mention it is safer for the breaks and easier to perform too. Last but not least it allows for easier cleaning of the rest of the drive train - especially chain ring and pulleys, tend to get gunky regardless of lube used. Wet lube is good if you expect to be riding in rain - that is the only valid point to say "it will last longer" but should be said "it might last long enough for the whole ride in rain". In every other case dry lube is better. If you are riding in wet conditions, you probably have to clean the drive train after every ride, so there is no "lasts longer" here to speak of.

[@goldfinga786able]

Free Palestine 🇵🇸

[@JSaltyfabricator]

@@goldfinga786able go ride your bike dude.

[@romanb3309]

@@goldfinga786able What a stupid narrative! Free from whom exactly? I bet you don't even know the status of this territory and where exactly it is located 😆

[@cbailey2376]

Oh go grease something.

[@madjh8]

It's my bike and I lubricate it however I want. Siple as that. But it is not a canned sardine, all understand that.

[@BigRed-MWA]

Muc-off is crap..💩💩💩💩💩