12 Common MTB Disk Brake Maintenance Mistakes & How To Avoid Them

We've seen it all over the years when it comes to brakes! From emergency bleeds with olive oil to serious pad contamination by over spraying unsafe chemicals where you just shouldn't! Doddy has compiled this list of maintenance to avoid when it comes to working on your all-important stoppers, with some good advice for how to properly approach the task at hand too!
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[@eptrs616]

I‘d ask Seth about the thing with wrong fluid😂Just sayin...

[@jamesbailey8449]

I have green aftermarket oil in my magura mt8's and they are smooth as butter.

[@FLiPtgc]

"...a little bit different, but kinda the same" :D

[@boomerangfreak]

Well I have both shimano and magura brakes on my different bikes. I only have 1 bottle of magura oil tho XD I do try my best to get all shimano oil out of the system when bleeding so that I am not mixing different types of oils.

[@JustAGlitchFL]

I have used just straight mineral oil in Shimano brakes before. Worked perfectly fine.

[@onewheellucas_0533]

@@FLiPtgc mineral oil is mineral oil only the colour is "a little bit different , but kinda the same"

[@TimMillernapavalleyfilmworks]

Seths Bike hacks used baby oil and tested it a year later...worked fine Shimano!!

[@TimMillernapavalleyfilmworks]

I contaminated my brakes, went on a long fast decent and heated them up and they work fine now.

[@jaredlash5002]

7:27 continuity error. :D Doddy has blue gloves on when approaching the door. No blue gloves after exiting the door.

[@pinchpeak5203]

If I even just THINK about trying to fix my brakes, they get 50% worse. I just gave up and now I take it to the LBS for anything brake related. Getting brake work done is really cheap anyways. Brakes are just way too dang sensitive!

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

1:45 on behalf of all the Polish: stop using us! 😛😂

[@th_js]

#freethepolish

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

@@th_js#STOPpolishAbuse #metoo #NOmeansNO #CanLivesMatter 🤣 (spray can)😂

[@wojciechopyrcha9116]

LOL :D

[@andreiteodor6462]

I understand the concerns of using other type of mineral oil in the brake system, but what about using automotive LHM fluid. Its made for citroen braking systems, and i have compared the proprieties of both shimano and TOTAL LHM and not only the LHM has higher boiling point but also lower freezing point and similar viscosity. i have been using for 1 year and not only its cheaper but also better in almost every aspect and u can get it in any car parts shop. Any toughts on this?

[@kswsquared]

Oh good, doing a tire swap with this playing in the background. * quietly reroutes the front brake hose *

[@josanluzuriaga177]

did cq

[@greenbimoon]

I ride with my brake levers opposite to you. Right rear, left front. It's just how I prefer.

[@IronX77]

Please do a vid on tips and tricks to optimize SRAM brakes... They're the ones that I need help with... 😬

[@simonyr36]

Step 1: throw em in the trash Step 2: buy Magura or Shimano (Had the Code R for over a year myself)

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

Step one: they're not that bad if you have newer models Step two: do not hesitate and use your warranty, if you got a bad set (Pretty much Shimano fan, but not a fanboy)

[@rupedog]

Buy shimano ones, with their well known wandering bite point issue and no modulation.😋

[@rupedog]

Henry did 2 excellent vids on exactly this last year, full of great tips for sram, but also other brakes... try a search through

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

@@rupedog deore and groupless 5-series have no modulation or bite point problems. You should try running cheaper stuff too...

[@LECMTB]

Cheers Doddy for this video, it couldn't have come at a better time. Today I am changing out my brake pads and bleeding them, but I never knew about the free stroke adjuster. I also have the XT brakes so knowing that is really handy. Thanks :D

[@boomerangfreak]

Doddy you're totally wrong. The front brake should always be on the left side! :P

[@JayGee6996]

That shot in the eye was brilliant on so many levels 🤣

[@scottlstone]

Dirty Bastard! 😂

[@dwafwewg]

thats what she said

[@JayGee6996]

You forgot to mention never to mix different versions of DOT fluid. Some can be mixed but it’s best to just remember not to do it. E.g. do not mix DOT 5 with DOT 5.1

[@fraanzfan8158]

Dot 3/4 and 5.1 will work

[@randyjohnson7821]

I'd also add that DOT fluid can eat paint, clean it up if you spill it on your frame or fork.

[@rupedog]

Only DOT 5 cant be mixed with the others DOTS, because its silicone based...DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 can be mixed, regardless of brand. SRAM only uses 4 or 5.1 tho, as 3 doesn't meet performance needs.

[@garethwri]

Great video as always Doddy! Just changed the brake pads for the first time on my Stumpjumper and the front felt a bit suspect on my first ride after. I had to let a small amount of fluid out to get the pistons back to allow the new pads in which I thought may be the problem but after watching this, I think they might not be bedded in properly. Will try that and the bite point adjustment first before a bleed... Cheers!

[@sjorsroelofs]

One tip I would give is to never over-tighten your brake lever bleed screw. Just finger-tight is enough. Been there, done that.. you can replace your entire brake lever if you over-tighten and screw up the thread 😢

[@Charlie_Broadbent]

I use subway napkins to cover my disk brakes when i use the muc-off bike protect

[@autoSRI]

Have you ever used the blow lamp method on contaminated pads ? I’ve done it plenty of times without issue

[@drewlop]

What is the blow lamp method? My brakes seem to be contaminated just from city riding and I can't afford to replace them :/

[@k2r79]

@@drewlop I use it too ✋Just remove your brake pads, set them flat on a non-flammable surface with the braking compound towards you and just boil them with a blow torch. That will burn any grease or oil on them, if the compound catches fire, it's that they were contaminated 😂

[@YiZongOng]

My biggest brake mistake was over tightening the bleed port screw and stripping the threads of the bleed port☠️

[@mann_idonotreadreplies]

I want that Shimano Ice disc😂🤗🤤

[@pierrebroccoli.9396]

Also, good to check the brake alignment with the mounting bolts, i.e. loosen the brake mount bolts, spin your wheel, apply pressure to the brake corresponding brake lever and tighten up to spec. Squealy brakes when riding in and through wet - not much one can do about that. Fairy is awesome for washing the bike, car, dishes, windows, dog. ;)

[@shithead]

usually gotta make sure the wheel/rotor is "pushing" forward on the caliper when you tighten it, too. If it's pushing backwards then it will be slightly toed outwards when you release the brake, which can cause poor braking and squealing.. Toeing your brakes is key, it increases stopping power significantly and helps prevent squeaks even on wet or greasy brakes

[@deepakgurung3853]

I use hair oil instead of mineral oil

[@LaLaLand.Germany]

Thankfully I didn´t do any of these, I just today upgraded from MT200 to 520- what a difference! And I ride the same way: front/right, rear/left. The manufacturers think otherwise, every bike I worked on it´s opposite- I hate that. Every motorcycle has the front brake right. Why not adapt that good standart? Less pain involved when kids go from cycle to bike.

[@MikkoRantalainen]

13:50 I would also check the wheel bearing tolerances. Sometimes the bearing tolerance may be slight too loose and that can cause noise if you try to move the bike with brakes applied.

[@veganath]

9:33 My issue addressed, no power in rear brakes even after cleaning the rotors & pads with alochol & using sand paper(320grit??) to remove any glazing..etc, will remove the rotors & pads for the third time to try the clean method described & return

[@nichtDarkDiamond]

I run my brakes in slightly different positions. My rear brake lever is a bit more flat with a later bite point, because I use the rear brake more when I hang of the back of my bike. My front brakes is 3 degree more down compared to the rear brake and has a earlier bite point, so it is in a better position for switchbacks und stoppies

[@frankthetankricard]

Sounds legit. Here's a few more pro tips. Cut your handlebars 10 mm shorter on the left and offset its angle from the fork by 1 degree so you can turn right a little harder. And how about running flats on the left and clipless on the right with your helmet backwards for more aero?

[@nichtDarkDiamond]

@@frankthetankricard If you have a shoulder injury you maybe have to do that

[@nichtDarkDiamond]

@@frankthetankricard my right sitbone is actually more forward than my left one so I run my saddle a bit to the left

[@mojo3398]

i like to have a notably earlier brake point und the rear break because i used to pulled the front brake too hard. now i drift a lot because i brake harder on the rear. it's fun but my rear tires and brake pads wear way faster.

[@TimMillernapavalleyfilmworks]

@@frankthetankricard Dude, you are my hero. I thought I was a good heckler. I'm not worthy.

[@davenorman8251]

I have a friend who is a mad mountain biker and works in the oil & gas industry when he put the shimano mineral oil in the mass spec "it lined up" exactly the same as very popular brand of automotive power steering fluid...sorry guys..I guess it explains the red colour. The same was done with "Fox fluid" and the results were also common with another product..think heavy weight oil blue in colour...and you'll probably guess it.

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

So many guys harp about brake pad contamination... but it's not harping, it's real. It's difficult to know how much or how little oily stuff on your pads will make them squeal, sometimes a lot, sometimes a little. It's not just squealing either, you lose a tremendous amount of braking force. Best to follow this advice and be careful, even if it seems overly cautious on the surface.

[@joseottovon]

Hi! I’m pretty sure I have spray some BIKE PROTECT ON THE BRAKES(sram level TL) and now not only I have noisy brakes also the brakes “don’t brake! How do I fix this pls??!

[@fxdndpd]

Free stroke... haha... I guess they did sponsor the video ;)

[@AsiAzzy]

About the wrong fluid.. i'm not too keen on buying into the bike hype of prices. That small bottle of mineral oil costs way too much compared to any other industrial fluid. So i just use ATF and afaik is the best substitute for mineral oil. Same for suspension oils... Why bother with rockshox special fluid when in the spec i've dug up it's 5w fork oil made by silkoleum that you can buy by the gallon at a fraction of price. Same for chain oil.. there are many oils to substitute the "bike chain oil" Even chains... For my fixed gear 1/8" chain where side width does not matter, there are plenty industrial chains 1/2" pitch with load rating specs with full bush and cheap sold by meter. They are arguably way stronger than any bike chain.. maibe heavier and those ratings may apply in the full oil bath designed for lubing (such as an engine timing chain). There are other chains rated for semipermanent lubing (like motorcycles). Anyway.. value per price is much better than shimano bike chains.

[@CmdrTigerKing]

Never understood "contamination" ... If you think they are contaminated just pour some isopropyl alcohol let em suck it all in ... wipe em down.. repeat. never fails.

[@NDemanuele1]

Helpful video. How often should you bleed the brakes? When do you know it's necessary? Is there a Rule of thumb? Thanks!

[@DonutEndurance]

My biggest problem is shimano stating a certain torque for the brake hose bolts then not leaving enough space to get a torque wrench in the space.

[@CommieHunter7]

Mineral fluid from brake mfg is a grift. The same stuff SHOULD be available somewhere else, in bulk, cheap. But because they're secretive about what it is, we have to overpay.

[@LeZturbo]

Magura fluid works in Shimano and vis versa…. Even Citroen LHM’works with these brakes as it is a brake and suspension mineral fluid

[@shooterchef]

You forgot "lazy pistons " My bike sounded like an ambulance after changing breakpad. I bled them, bedded them, cleaned them, bedded again, removing and cleaning the rotor, and yet rear break kept squealing like an ambulance. Had a friend look at it and found a there was lazy ass piston. Exercising just one piston is a drag on quad breaks...

[@flashman2008]

How did Doddy know that I screwed my front brake up when tinkering after a clean the other day? 🤔

[@rupedog]

Stalking u...hidden cameras...true story...be afraid, be very afraid 😂

[@mortxuk]

same!

[@ljupcopetkov4808]

My front disc rotor is grindng now. Hidden cameras indeed

[@flashman2008]

I'm taking my bike to my LBS - I can't really afford to get it fixed, but I really can't afford to cause anymore damage! Then maybe invest in a home mechanics course...

[@roythearcher]

The bedding in of new brake pads is not "to deposit an even layer of material" on your discs, why would you do that??? it will just get rubbed off again under normal use! The idea is to make sure the pad faces are in full contact with the rotor as they will undoubtedly not have worn evenly unless they're brand new and will need to wear in until the pad face conforms to the surface contours of the rotor. Even when brand new you have to wear the pads and rotors in before they produce their optimal power as the gound face of the rotor has minute ridges and troughs that need to be evened out (and NO Not by filling them up with pad material!) Before they work to their full potential. Take it from a mechanical engineer! Contamination:- Disc rotors, just clean with brake cleaner. they're impervious so theres no need to go further than this unless they're become discoloured due to heat then just rub over with a medium emery paper (400/600 grit). Contaminated Pads, Don't even bother, just dump them!...these are porous and any oil contamination will just come back to the surface as soon as they get hot, even if you think you've cleaned them! Glazed pads can be problematic depending on why they're glazed in the first place and could indicate the wrong compound for the riding style. Glazing without contamination is often the result of overheating due to heavy use before they're had a chance to bed in properly but they can glaze when used in prolonged braking on long descents if they get too hot. In this case they can be improved by rubbing with emery paper to remove the glaze but they might be damaged by the overheating and will probably need doing again very soon after.

[@rupedog]

Then u completely fail to understand how brakes actually work, simple as that. It is purely to deposit material on the discs you bed them in, by getting them warm enough to allow this, and why u never fully stop when bedding in, to prevent a 'high' spot from hot brakes sitting with pads pressed in one position. Brakes absolutely work by transfer of pad material, not really friction at all... On a car, the most common cause of 'warped discs' is uneven pad material on front discs from people sitting with the foot brake pressing pads into hot discs, rather than using hand/parking brake if brakes hot. Of course they need to be aligned to maximise contact, but that is absolutely NOT why you bed in brakes!

[@rayglasscock9667]

@@rupedog I've seen brake drums on hgv end up egg shape by applying park brake when they have got hot by which I mean glowing red on occasions splitting the drum.always treat brake issues seriously it's that small area of contact through your tyre print that'll you must rely on to keep safe, if you don't know enough leave it alone. 👌👍

[@roythearcher]

@@rupedog If you are depositing materlal on to the disc rotor why do they get thinner in use not thicker as your deposited material will make them? I understand fully what happens when you apply your brakes, whereas you obviously do not!

[@dksmith605]

Disc rotor covers for this sort of jobs? Buy a few packs of cheap disposable shower caps, thank me later.

[@olafschermann1592]

Squeezing brakes: just cleaning the pads is not enough. Oil is embedded inside the pads. What works is to boil it out by placing the pads on an oven 10min at 200 centigrades. If it smokes than the embedded oil is leaving the pads.

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

How many Brits don't know what DOT stands for? Probably the same as Americans who don't know what MOT is 😀👍

[@cyclingtwovlogger]

LHM PLUS 💪

[@IvanFSM]

@cyclingTwoVlogger is it ok to use it? Like Total LHM PLUS? Green one?

[@cyclingtwovlogger]

@@IvanFSM I use Febi LHM Plus on all my bikes. It's also green. I think there is no a big difference between Febi and Total LHM Plus.

[@LaurentiusTriarius]

I've tried all sorts of fluids in all the tektro I removed from new bikes, dot definitely doesn't work with mineral oil seals I can confirm. But yeah pure mineral oil from the hardware store or Amazon works just fine, bonus point since there's no dye in it 😂

[@iancarlson-w8m]

If your brakes sound like Miles Davis' "Pangaea..." It's time to clean. Needless to say it's regarded as one of his worst albums..

[@gernottoventile_mtb]

I have XTR 9120 brakes on my bike, but have never ever seen the free stroke adjustment do anything...

[@thomasmann6891]

Is it ok to use car brake cleaner rather than there’s overpriced mic off and the like please ?

[@nickhargreaves681]

Moved to Germany and had to get used to brakes being the opposite way round. Now I can never conciously know know which is which without checking.

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

Lived in UK 2005-2012, seems long time ago, but still not sure which side of the car the steering wheel is when I talk to people. I don't mess up when approaching a car or reaching for gear stick anymore, but when just talking I still need a moment of visualisation. We are damaged mate 🤣

[@aakos26]

... Or just swap them around as they suit you. I've been riding in UK for over 12 years, as soon as I buy/build a bike convert them to European/US setting.

[@prgrier1]

pre bleed adjustment of lever and stroke travel, lever is fully out, yes but I've heard conflicting opinions about the stroke, some older brakes would not bleed with out these things done.

[@drmoynihan]

In the USA, right hand/rear brake, left hand/front brake. :)

[@danielsjansons3260]

1st my frend pored 100 ml on my rotors off but I don't hawe mony to replace them 😭 and I think I hawe wrong oil and pads😮‍💨

[@mcshane05]

Baby oil works fine never had any problems and alot cheaper than the red dyed oil from shimano

[@Stayhesh]

Pro mechanic: “hey don’t do this thing”. Customer with brake issues: “yeah I know more than you”

[@Offroader74]

#AskGMBNTech why do the lever move further to the handle bar as pads wear on bicycles, but it doesn't at motorbikes and cars? Is the expansion reservoir to small?

[@ThyFeinkoster]

While I appreciated the video I find the attitude towards discarding used dot containers wasteful. I'm using the same container for some years without any issues. Sure there might be some humidity absorbed within the fluid by now but this is unlikely to become an issue if you close it properly immediately after taking out the required fluid. Also why would you use a water displacer?

[@jg374]

From what I've seen with car brakes and clutches, dot fluid tends to change colour and get a bit mucky as it absorbs moisture. It be as likely to happen on a bike or have quite the same consequences, but for cars I think the issues with it absorbing water is that when the fluid heats up, the water in it can boil and become steam, which just happens to be compressible, leading to an unexpected lack of braking performance. Edit: Also in the case of a car / vehicle which is regulated more heavily, there should be no question over the operation and maintenance of critical systems - if you follow the manufacturer's recommendations/other relevant and trusted set of guidelines to the letter (even if you can think of an alternative method or think something is unnecessary), then you are less likely to be blamed if something goes wrong, for better or worse.

[@LifeofMaik]

When using Dot change it with your cars or motorbikes fluid and all of your bikes if possible. You can buy a bigger container saving a few bucks. Granted it is more labour involved, but you only have to remember one date and not start and stop all over again.

[@polbecca]

And even if just doing bike brakes, auto DOT5.1 is much cheaper than the same stuff sold in bike shops.

[@mr2_mike]

@@polbecca just make sure you always use the right dot. Not all are compatible. I believe dot 4 is not compatible with dot 5 but the other way around is ok. Difference in dot fluid is the boiling point. Mostly for car racing.

[@jiaochou8836]

hello,i have disc brake pads on amazon,but im not sure it works or not,i want to give them away,i dont know who can help,can you give me some advice?

[@Oskar-tv2gi]

How do you decontaminate your brake discs i got Wd40 all over the by accident a while ago and they’ve been way less sensitive since

[@jamesb15uk]

11:25 Says dont use rags you use to clean the bike on the brakes, but you are using the brush on them.. making my squirm a little bit. Maybe Im over reacting

[@tomp329]

baby oil 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@normanmadden]

Day one; bleed brakes, clean bike..... Day two: replace brake pads...😃

[@bob-ny6kn]

Everyone parks their bike like it's a bad girlfriend, then blames ME for their bent rotors.

[@indigo_enigma]

Whoa whoa whoa! Back up! What the hell is "Sezme" oil? 😂

[@a.n.mwaliullah1632]

Shimano Brake caliper piston popped out. How do I get it back in? :

[@calypso2niner]

Awesome, comprehensive brake tech with Doddy and reggae beats!

[@nottiboppin6701]

The piston on my brakes kinda came out when I was bleeding them and now they don’t work

[@vinny61389]

The dragging/uneven calipers can sometimes also be that the coating on the pistons themselves (and also the bore/square seal in the caliper) are also worn and no resetting will fix it. Only a rebuild or replace at that point.

[@peterfranzjr.1190]

I bought a Bossnut V2 (from UK) in 2017 and I rode an entire season with the front brake on the wrong side (right) until watching one of your maintenance videos. After seeing how easy it was the change, I switched the sides and went through a full brake bleed at the same time!

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

You guys don't use sesame oil in your brakes? I hate to ask about butter in the bottom bracket 😂👍

[@samgraham4168]

Every car mechanic in the world currently twitching...

[@downhill_rider732]

I have a question so the deore xt brakes have that free stroke i ride two piston deore brake if i put deore xt lever on deore caliper does the free stroke will still do something or it wont on other caliper

[@rkoby42]

Brits put their brakes opposite just like they drive on the wrong side of the road?

[@ThunderStruckMTB]

If you have done the "mini bleed lever flick" thingie with the wheels still on the bike, then you will have overfilled the system and will need to remove the reservoir bleed screw before you push the pistons back when doing a pad change to give the extra fluid somewhere to go... if you don't, you will not be able to get the pistons back and more than likely will break one of them trying.

[@polishguywithhardtospellna8227]

Especially with somewhat worn pads

[@MikkoRantalainen]

10:20 I would argue that you rarely need to replace rotors because those shouldn't be able to soak oil or grease. The pads on the other hand are pretty porous material and if you get oil in the pads, it will be there forever. If you know the boiling point of that oil, you might be able to heat the pads above the boiling point and keep the pads at that temperature for long enough. It might turn out that the boiling point of the oil is more than what the pads can take, though.

[@MikkoRantalainen]

@J B Contaminated with what? Are you claiming that something entered *inside* the metal material of the disks (rotors)? Did you use real brake cleaner fluid to clean the rotors? Even car brake disks come with oiled surface from the factory and you must degrease the brake surfaces before brake pads touch the surface. Do you think your rotor "contaminant" is worse than oil?

[@jasonmoore3557]

Shower caps from pound shops make good disc brake covers 😉

[@theneverman]

But sesame oil smells so good when things heat up ;)

[@MidWestMTB]

I've literally dunked my pads and rotors in oil, cleaned them off with a bit of alcohol and they worked fine.

[@BGraves]

No way...

[@JustAGlitchFL]

Yeah that doesn't sound true.

[@charliezdybek1882]

Why did you put em in oil

[@MidWestMTB]

Spare rotors in a bag with my bleed kit. One bag and mineral oil got punctured and bled into the separate bag with the rotors.

[@dudeonbike800]

Hey folks, this is a ruse. Look at his name... "MidWest MTB." Are you suspicious? Good! The mid west doesn't have any hills! So he doesn't actually need or use brakes! So take his advice with a grain of salt! Ha, ha! (And no, don't sprinkle salt on your pads & rotors:)

[@Bianchiboy]

Having had a set of Formulas keep messing up, I can safely say I’ll not bother with DOT fluid again. Got a set of Maguras now and they’re 100% better

[@gryyta9617]

And does the DOT work in ya car or do you use mineral oil? Cant be that bad! (i run Shimano brakes on my bike)

[@rupedog]

Whats the fluid got to do with it....nothing. cant blame the fluid!

[@wilsarno]

One of the biggest mistakes is leaving your Tektro brakes on when really they should be in the bin.

[@polbecca]

Can confirm 😀

[@dudeonbike800]

Using spray lube on a bicycle should carry a minimum one year jail term! Even before disc brakes, spray lubes were the bane of the bicycle mechanic's world. You don't need lube everywhere! Especially all over your cogs, rings and derailleur(s)! Drip that stuff where it's needed and then WIPE OFF THE EXCESS!

[@90s-Kazzy]

i got told not to wash my hydrolic disk brakes whith water is that true?

[@michaelsigismonde7958]

I have a Montague Paratrooper 26" folding mountain bike. It's a great, sturdy bike--they're used by US Army--but I absolutely hate disc brakes. Traditional center-pull brakes (which grab the wheel's rim) works best for me. They have their downside, compared to disc brakes, but I can easily change the pads in one or two minutes with minimal tools, and adjust the tension. Disc brakes are just too damn complicated. I want to enjoy riding my bike, not spending a whole month trying to figure out how the disc brake system works.

[@joseynovember6503]

People who ride with the front brake on the left are mouth breathers.

[@zoobiewa]

What a bunch of slimy salesmanship - mineral oil is fine.

[@boogiedownbronx73]

My back wheel brake sounds like a squeaking seal

[@mlb6d9]

Here's another valuable tip - pay attention which brake lever you put the bleed cup on and check which caliper it goes to. I once put the bleeder cup on my front lever and tried to bleed the rear caliper. Needless to say, the hose kept popping off and oil went everywhere before I realized it.

[@chaitanyapathak7797]

My brakes are not building pressure

[@jameswilson2815]

I'm comfortable knowing this advice comes from an accomplished bike rider. Mahalo Doddy. You da man. Aloha. 😎🤙

are they realy better then cable brakes ? my cables never broke

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

"mineral oil doesn't absorb moisture from the air, like DOT fluid does"... brilliant, I was wondering this, thanks!

[@FLiPtgc]

Thanks for the helpful video, just in time, I will do a full brake bleed in the near future. I already bought some "Royal Blood" brake fluid but I have Shimano Deore XT brakes, same as in your video. So you dont recommend to use "Royal Blood" but Shimano fluid instead. How much fluid do you approximately need for a full brake bleed front and rear (xc bike). Or would you recommend to just remove the air out of the system? How often do you replace the brake fluid?

[@gohopoho3903]

6:53 that level muddy

[@youtube7076]

9:55 did you mention to boil them in water? how long?

[@upgrade222]

Front brake on the right? Madness!

[@dudeonbike800]

Another great video. Thanks! BTW, some people watch at 12:35 for reasons other than bicycle maintenance. Tsk, tsk, tsk.

[@bcskitouring]

Fluid drive brakes are very very temperamental indeed. The mere fact that as you show in your video each brand of brakes require different brake fluid. This is another example bike industry monopolising. It is not easy to bleed or maintain fluid drive disc brakes as you falsely suggest in your video. My request to the industry is to produce disc brakes which are cable driven, and phase out fluid drive brakes.

[@sathyaki]

I have got only v brakes.. why am I even here!!

[@pauly6937]

Magura brakes. I have mt7 pro. They feel strong but the rear vibrates through the bike. How can i stop this? Also is it neccasary to pressurise the fluid in the syringe with mineral oil like you would with dot fluid?

[@prgrier1]

In my area of the world, acquiring manufacturers brake fluid and pads has been a 'magical' trick. All using the 'fits all' excuse.

[@ieuangwynne7736]

Hi doddy what stem is that in the nukeptoof

[@kaedeschulz5422]

I have gotten lube on my Rotors once.... I run waxxed chains now. Lasts longer before it needs to be redone and the chains also last longer. Also the drivetrain stays clean as mud doesn't stick to it. I also had my brake line not tightened enaugh and pushed the lever while working on the bike. Thankfully didn't loose much fluid.