GMC Denali`08 6.2l Ls engine non-AFM lifter tick noise remove L-bank lifters pt.1

[@ghhorton21]

Had to put an oil pump on my 6.0l 2006 pickup! at 155,000 miles. That solved my valve train noise problem! ~ 403,000 miles and running strong!

[@AutoDrdiy]

Pulling this 6.2l out atm. Both heads are off, have to remove oil pan to get oil pump off t-chain.... Cam on R side damaged...So just pulling engine. To many gaskets, surfaces to clean, to keep climbing up and down, under, etc.

[@curtis1951]

@@AutoDrdiy Do you know if the 2011 Denali 6.2 has dod?

[@kingpencowboy7977]

@T wheres that located mine only makes the tick noise at high spesds on hwy once i get back off hwyit goes away after 30-45 secs of normal 0-55 mph driving

[@riccomartinez3848]

I have a 06 making pretty loud ticking noise aswell think it’s my oil pump?

[@austinmcbee6403]

Okay. The check engine light is not on it has 163k miles on it. Im taking it to the shop to have it looked at. Thank you for your help and keep up the good videos they are great.

[@AutoDrdiy]

Thanks, keep watching.

[@ThConley]

It's your oil pick up tube o ring. They get flat and end up sucking air, not allowing 100% oil to reach the top of the heads

[@chrisb2239]

ThConley sounds right. Can you change that out by removing the pan or do you have to get into the block?

[@ThConley]

@@chrisb2239 your able to get to from the pan but since we have awd you have to drop the differential, and rack and pinion to be able to clear the pan out at an angle. It was super intimidating going into it at first but its definitely easier as your getting at it. I believe it took me about 5 hours total, but was able to use my 3/4" ridgid impact to break almost every bolt loose under there

[@Danielcruz6123]

I changed the lifters and still have a tick noise, have a stuck spring valve . any idea?

[@sergiocuellar980]

hello!!! I own a 07 yukon denali how I can tell if my truck is or is not AFM? thank you, great video.

[@brybe]

you are pre afm

[@curtis1951]

@@brybe Do you know if the 2011 Denali 6.2L is afm?

[@brybe]

@@curtis1951 It could have AFM for the 6.2 started in 2010. L9H engine = No AFM, L94 =AFM. All have Variable Valve Timing.

[@curtis1951]

@@brybe Thanks

[@thomasrunnels9306]

How you tell if you have afm is the valley plate under intake will have veins if you have afm. And will be smooth on top if you dont. Just look at the top of your plate under your throttle body.

[@sabrinaacabal7675]

Thanks for the video.... my truck is making the same noise ... how did u fix yours

[@AutoDrdiy]

New cam and lifters, thanks for watching

[@eddieloko89]

Hey buddy my yukon does the same noise but is say miss firing at cylinder 4 could that be the lifter or something eles like a bent rod or bad piston

[@terrellwestry946]

Did you figure out this problem

[@Yittt]

I just bought ls7 lifters for my 09 l9h 6.2 Silverado and Stage 2 VVT Texas Speed cam kit, new rockers, springs, oil pump, trans cooler truck has 105k on it but is getting older, has stock bottom end should I be worried about it? Stock 6l80e, adding 3000 stall. Had the truck since 60k always 3-4k oil changes, never had DOD or AFM on the l9h motors. Truck has very minor tick when cold doesn't always do it and is hard to hear, but I think its time to get it taken care of.

[@AutoDrdiy]

If it had good oil pressure before, I wouldn't be to concerned.

[@Yittt]

@@AutoDrdiy no problems with oil pressure, sometimes the trans felt a little slippery every now and then 2nd to 3rd when under 100 degree, is this a common thing for 6l80e trucks? I'm going to have it tuned so I will find out forsure when it's shifting harder so I hope not. I've talked to a couple shops and one recommended a more heavy oil, I've researched it and it seems to be safe on non-VVT motors but being as my motor is VVT, I've read it's best to just keep the same oil weight for vvt motors, maybe just switch to 10w-30 during cold season?

[@AutoDrdiy]

@@Yittt I would follow the new vvt requirements, off hand. Which is prob the 5 30 syn, but check it and see.

[@Yittt]

@@AutoDrdiy ok Ive always used 5w-30 syn like it recommends thanks, great videos I will be using them and others to do my swap, I'll let a shop do the stall, tune and possibly rear main seal while they're back there.

[@MrCcobra2000]

This guy is great!!!!

[@AutoDrdiy]

Thanks for watching

[@mercedesbenzs600bash]

Do Chevy Suburbans have the same problem???

[@alexpnw]

I have the exact same vehicle but 2012. The noise goes away once it's warm. Do you think it's possible that I'm having the same issue?

[@AutoDrdiy]

Prob just typical G M piston-slap noise, if it goes away. As the piston get hot, they swell, and fill in the cylinder clearance, resulting from the kevlar coating wearing off of the piston skirt over time. The chattering cold, doesn't have any adverse effect on the engine, GM says. But as with any concern, monitor it for any changes. Thanks for watching

[@alexpnw]

@@AutoDrdiy thank you for a great video!

[@mrhaths]

did you ever figure it out?

[@alexpnw]

@@mrhaths I replaced the serp belt and the tick noise went away but when really cold, it had a minor clap for short period of time. I'll just have my wife drive it till I get her the new diesel one

[@billlambert9028]

I have a 2008 GMC Yukon with a 6.2 L motor. It’s making a squealing noise almost like it’s a belt. However, a mechanic told me that it’s the nylon bushings in the rocker arms or maybe the lifters?

[@AutoDrdiy]

You need a 2nd opinion, imo. If you have the ability, remove the belts, and start it, if the noise is gone, you will have more of an idea of the prob. There is also a smaller serpentine belt running the a/c unit, the little tensioner pulley on it, is known to make a squeel noise when it's bad. Thanks for watching.

[@billlambert9028]

@@AutoDrdiy what's crazy is that it does not do it at idle. Primarily when you step down on it and it gets louder with more rpms. It stops once it drops back to 2,000-2,500 rpm.

[@shanemarvin4320]

Check ac belt tensioner probably going out

[@Lovetolivetruely]

Are these engines aluminum or cast iron blocks or both? If both what vehicles did they put the aluminum blocks in and what vehicles did they put cast iron in?

[@BrandonDoner]

The trucks with the 6.2 are all aluminum

[@obwonknobe]

Awesome video! Great lesson. 2 years ago I paid $5,700 fix this exact issue on my 2011 Denali (w/131K miles). Replaced all lifters, Camshaft, plugs, ignition coils, reset air gap/calibrated, decarbonized intake, cleaned fuel injection system.......Today, 49K miles later, I begin to hear the same ticking noise. ARRHH! Going to take it in tomorrow for service to validate the problem. I use full synthetic oil and replace every 6-7K miles. You mentioned using synthetic "blend"? Could that really make a difference? I love this SUV. Not sure I can drop another $5,700 to do this again. Are lifters a common problem on this 6.0L engine with higher miles? Thx

[@AutoDrdiy]

Hopefully you dont have the same problem. But, while I'm. Ot an engineer, I believe GM's boys were batting the blend thing around. But inevitably, the hardness on the cam would be the problem, I think. Not sure if upper-class aftermarket cam would hold up better. But it is a problem on the 6.2l. The lifters I put in this one were a different part number, (updated). The dealerships are re-using the lifters that aren't damaged initially. That would be a mistake, imo. Thanks for watching.

[@AutoDrdiy]

Also, I recommend an oil change not to exceed 5k, in anything. And 3k on non-syn oil. The oil may last longer on syn, but the filters cannot filter out fine enough particulates, (again imo) that are aggressive to high pressure areas.

[@DwayneRodgersdlr]

You can delete the active fuel management.

[@mrrmsfucker146]

Hi! How many miles did this have? Thanks!

[@AutoDrdiy]

105k

[@mrhaths]

are lifters a serious issue? my 2016 yukon denali has the same issue when i start it up. it goes away after it has been running for a little while, but doesn't seem like it is running right... It is still under warranty. If I got it replaced would it be a big issue or should I just trade it in. Only has 38k on it.... Just dont want future problems

[@AutoDrdiy]

Damaged cam & lifters are serious enough, as they are filing hardened metal off into the engine. But at 36k it isnt going to be the issue, and if under warranty, it should be taken to a dealer, and handled accordingly. Thanks for watching

[@mrhaths]

@@AutoDrdiy it sounds just like that video though. I was thinking at 38k it shouldnt have problems either, but im worried

[@AutoDrdiy]

@@mrhaths 1 word, "free", relatively. Under warranty, let the dealer put a new engine in it, if needed. Just take thorough pics of the paint job, from front to back, and a few of the interior. Just to keep 'em honest, in-case it gets cosmetically damaged. Thanks for watching

[@mrhaths]

@@AutoDrdiy if they were to put a new part in the engine due to a problem or eve na new engine would it be fine for the life of the car? like i said, I dont want to run into future problems, but I also love that car and dont want to buy a new one

[@mercedesbenzs600bash]

@@mrhaths So what was your problem????

[@troylee3179]

Did they fix this problem in the newer trucks

[@jwell1160]

Made it worse

[@austinmcbee6403]

I have a 2007 pontiac grand prix i was wondering can a sensor be causing my gears to slip? Im not very good with cars i was just wondering

[@AutoDrdiy]

Yes, especially if the check engine light is on. Some other considerations are: its exceeded 100k miles, or if the fluid in trans was changed at or below 60k miles, if ever. And if it may be low on fluid, or have visible signs of leaking trans fluid (especially around the small rubber lines leading to the radiator). Also a bad connection or blown fuse to trans related components, can be a problem. Best to have it scanned at a local parts store or garage, to evaluate the problem with it if any. Or a few $$ can turn into $$$$, buy continuing to drive it slipping, and in an unbelievably short amount of time.

[@austinmcbee6403]

Ill keep watching if you keep uploading!

[@neilrobertson1345]

So why do lifters fail at such low milages?

[@AutoDrdiy]

Low milage? It was over 100k. But keep in mind, at the end of the day, a Corp mindset is, to sell more for less cost. And you dont need another one as long as the one you have, holds up. Thanks for watching

[@rocketrod9545]

Age too .. 10 year old lifters, lifters weren't there strong point, mine failing at 112k

[@jamesguralski5156]

Wow my 2009 Silverado 5.3 has same knock! Exactly the same. Maybe I'll try the oil ring first!

[@AutoDrdiy]

Thanks for watching

[@jamesguralski5156]

@@AutoDrdiy change the oil ring didn't help.. still have the loud chirp knock. Engine doesn't throw any codes though

[@AutoDrdiy]

@@jamesguralski5156 This video was about the lifter/camshaft, getting pits, and the lifter roller stops rolling at times, makes the noise. And the cam and lifters need replaced. Thanks for watching

[@mrrmsfucker146]

Put 4 - 8mm washers behind the oil pressure spring. Sometimes it just need more pressure.