Godox AD600 Pro Review - A Rock Solid Strobe w/Professional Features, Plus High Speed Sync Explained

The Godox AD600 Pro is perfect for enthusiasts and professionals alike. It stands alone or can be part of a larger system. Your creativity is no longer limited by your equipment. In this video, I review the Godox AD600 Pro and explain its features and benefits. In addition, I explain the high-speed sync and what to watch out for. You won't be disappointed.
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[@spencerbrown3636]

Nice to see a video from a professional rather than from a professional reviewer. I also appreciate that you didn’t review it the day/week/month you got the lights. Solid info. I’m astounded at how affordable lighting has gotten in the past five years. Looking to add this light to my kit. This sealed the deal. Cheers.

[@358studios]

Hey Spencer, thank you for the encouraging comments. Yes, this system is very affordable for someone making money with photography, and there are so many options for people just getting started and not making money... yet. :) I think this revolution in lighting started with Paul C Buff (RIP) and now has other manufacturers searching for value-add, cost-effective ways to improve. We all benefit! Please let me know how the new lights go. Cheers.

[@danbazan1691]

I have one of these and an AD200 + 860II and I could not be happier, they are rock solid

[@358studios]

Hi Dan, thank you. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Glad to hear they are working out as well for you as they do for me. Cheers!

[@ba553y]

I got the AD400pro myself and 'm happy I got great tips from you on here

[@358studios]

Wow! Super awesome to hear. I'm glad it helped. Anything you'd like to see in future video.

[@thegreatujo]

I have the AD600 Pro along with other Godox strobes and I can attest to pretty much everything he said. They work reliably. Never had any issues with them. Build quality seems pretty good. I love Godox.

[@358studios]

Thanks for sharing and for taking the time to comment.

[@omarjug]

I love the presentation how smoothly you have reviewed the product and showed everything I needed to know

[@358studios]

Thank you I really appreciate this kind of positive comments. Please let me know if you have any questions I’m happy to help.

[@billbeattie9292]

Awesome review. All the information a person needs to justify purchasing an AD600 Pro.

[@358studios]

Hi Bill, thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. :)

[@juangiraud6013]

Great information to have and love the humor here and there. Have a few AD200 and plan on adding this to the rest of my inventory of flash,

[@358studios]

Hey Juan, great to hear. Please feel free to share. If you have any questions please let me know. I have the AD200 Pro and AD600 Pro models and have used the heck out of them. Cheers.

[@jkspinalchoice]

Excellent video very informative based on your experience I ordered one and received it today looking forward to using it thank you!

[@358studios]

Awesome! Please let me know what you think or if you have any questions.

[@randyhernandez9028]

I just purchased this today cant wait to try it thanks for the info !!

[@358studios]

Hi Randy, I'm glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. Please let me know how it goes. I am always interested in hearing about how other people are using the Godox system. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@bobdriscoll3310]

An excellent review from someone who has obviously used the flash for a long time in a lot of scenarios. Thanks!

[@358studios]

Hi Bob, thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to comment on the video.

[@bobdriscoll3310]

@@358studios No worries at all - that was a lot less time and effort than you spent making it!!

[@beemarentertainmentltd281]

Brilliant walkthrough👏💪 AMAZING presentation Sir🙏

[@358studios]

Hey sorry about the delayed response but I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thank you.

[@marisamacc]

Thank you for this helpful video!

[@358studios]

Absolutely! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thank you!

[@bala1000mina]

Hello Sean, Very informative! Thanks a lot! God bless you!

[@358studios]

My pleasure and thank you for taking the time to comment.

[@sarahmazeedian3304]

Awesome review!!! Thank you!!!!

[@358studios]

Thank you, Sarah. I just can't seem to get away from using your images. :) Can't wait until you're back to shoot again!

[@brucemorgan9758]

Excellent Presentation !!! now I know I need an AD600 PRO !

[@358studios]

Hi Bruce Morgan, I'm glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. Yes, you definitely need two! :) By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@p.burley4533]

I will just replay this until the strobe power balancing lesson sinks in. I love my AD600 Pro and am growing with it.

[@358studios]

Hey, thanks for taking the time to respond. What kind of questions do you have about power balancing?

[@vikesbenbetter]

Very informative and I learned a lot.

[@358studios]

Thank you and thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it.

[@MarisaFotosensible]

I really appreciate your advice...

[@358studios]

No problem. I just replied to your other comment.

[@dhirajshetty483]

A Very Informative video ! thank you

[@358studios]

Hey sorry about the delayed response. Thank you for commenting I appreciate it. Have a great holidays.

[@Amazingkiddoa]

Love this

[@358studios]

Hi @Amazingkiddoa, I'm glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@donwhite332]

I have had 5 of this, plus four AD200 and one AD1200 for a while now. They do what I need without spending at least 3x as much on Profoto.

[@Sean-Seymour]

Exactly! I can replace 3 of these for 1 Profoto. :)

[@hunterjamal6970]

I dont mean to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any tricks you can give me!

[@coryisrael2406]

@Hunter Jamal instablaster ;)

[@rehab4everybody]

@Hari Singh Some say, 500 or 600 are enozgh.. for what 1200?

[@julianmittelstaedt]

thanks for the clear words

[@358studios]

Absolutely! Glad it helped.

[@daveychainsaw5685]

Hi Sean, great video, thanks. Can't understand why you don't have more views! I've just ordered an AD600 Pro to try out. I'm new to strobes and lighting in general. Would love to see a video aimed at newcomers on how to set up a strobe like this for portraits. what settings to use on camera and the strobe, that kind of thing.

[@358studios]

Hi Davey, thank you for the encouraging comments. Funny you should mention another video covering the use of these strobes. I was filming it when I suddenly had to pack up the studio and move to LA. It is definitely coming soon. Before the end of this month! Thanks again and please feel free to ask any questions in the meantime. If I can help, happy to. Cheers!

[@TMcK-yh2wj]

@@358studios is the video covering use of strobes out yet. I'm looking into buying this strobe as my first big lighting purchase. I really appreciate your videos. So informative. Thank You.

[@358studios]

Hey T - thanks for asking. It is not out yet, but it's on my list. I am lacking available models at the moment, but I will get this one done very soon. I've been putting it off because I want to do a good job, but maybe just getting it done is better than being perfect. :) Do you by chance have notifications so you can see it when it comes out? Have a great day! Cheers.

[@wnsmx1]

Definately getting this light

[@358studios]

Good to hear. I’m glad you got something from the video. Please let me know how the light works for you.

[@acaiv1797]

Great video.

[@358studios]

Hi ACAIV. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@abdulbrimah358]

What’s your opinion on getting this or the Paul c buff lights when it comes to studio usage? Amazing vid btw!!

[@358studios]

Abdul Brimah hi there. In my opinion I would go with the Godox unless you have lights in the ceiling and need to turn them off or put them to sleep with the remote. The other possible consideration is if you are jumping between lighting configurations. The cyber commander from PCB does a great job of storing different lighting configurations which I use quite a bit when I am in the studio. For example I may want to go with lights in my sweep only for a silhouette and then jump back to a beauty dish plus sweep or whatever. I have not figured out how to do this easily with the X pro remote. Lastly I do like that I don’t have to buy my modifiers from only PCB as the Bowens mount is very common. PCB is becoming more common but still a challenge. I hope this helps please let me know your thoughts.

[@rickjbradbury]

Recently added a used AD600 TTL to the kit with a remote head, solid light. The pro versions do look great also. i have gotten use to the 1/10th stop power increments on my Pixapro Storm II heads and often miss that in my location kit. All in all a great system to buy in to.

[@358studios]

Thanks for sharing

[@richmac4581]

Hey love to elaborate on my comment. Again I Love the video. I thought I dm you but I guess it was public. The message was about the orientation of the gobo head and c stand arm. The weight of your strobe is the placed in the direction where the grip head on the arm will become loose. Potential for the strobe to fall to the floor or if over head on to a person’s head. The strobe and the grip arm is also under the fulcrum of the head. Items like strobes, lights, flags, solids all have falling weight. So your weight item wants to fall to the right side of the hobo head. The thread of the head is righty tighty. It also wants to be above the fulcrum of the gobo head since it give the weighted item further to travel in the direction towards tight.

[@358studios]

Hey Rich, thank you for the explanation. This is great advice for beginning photographers. I'm aware of this and I'm wondering where I made the boo boo of reversing. Typically knuckles on the right which as you mentioned keeps the gear in a continuous tightening mode verses loosening. I'm trying to figure out if I caught myself in between booms (sometimes my actual boom arm is buried in Einstein gear) and just went for a quick setup. Anyway, no matter. You make an excellent point and anyone that has read this far make sure you overhead gear is always tightening (IE if you were to pull down on it) not the other way around where it will loosen and drop. Oh, I see a future video in this. :)

[@capturedbykahdi2958]

Thank you, this was a wonderful review! I have had some troubles with my handle getting stuck and i am unable to adjust it so that it sits flat when i pack it away, if that makes sense? I searched and searched online and in the manual for some directions or help on this but had no luck. Has this happened to you before?

[@358studios]

Hi there, yes. Great point. My handle gets stuck all the time. What I do is loosen the lever and then smack the handle flat. I do this so often that I forget that it seems stuck sometimes. I would think a dry lubricant would help if you apply it to the levers tension pads.They seem to be a rubber type material and would probably respond well to something like that.

[@egurman1218]

Thank you for the video! Currently on the fence about whether or not I want to get two Godox AD300 Pros or a single AD600 Pro. I like the idea of being portable but have a feeling I will come across some large family groups that the 600 Pro will have an upper hand. What are your thoughts?

[@358studios]

Hi Evan, thank you for the comment. I'm going to assume you're shooting outside with strobes. Thoughts are super simple. I think for your groups you would do much better spreading out your lighting rather than having more power from a single source. So, I'd go with the two vs one. You can adjust the "power" by using the correct modifier and by getting your lights as close to your group as you can. Short of completely overpowering the sun, you should be good.

[@dance2jam]

Hey Sean, back at you one more time. First, going to give you your props. Started with the Impact c-stand you recommended, Cheetah stand 34" softbox, and Godox AD 600 pro strobe. So far, so good and really appreciate the recommendations and heads up. Now some fun question for distant future: If wanting to freeze dance movement (leaps, etc) or athletes in a controlled environment, and not use stroboscopic or HSS, when adding lights (so you can turn the power down) opt for more lights - which gets silly at some point, or more power first (i.e. Godox AD 1200 pro). Just curious. I know this is a crazy question, but I'm just enjoying the world you live in!

[@358studios]

Hey there, looks like your photography journey is going great! So many great questions! Please excuse me if you've already researched flash duration, but if I'm understanding correctly that is the answer to your question. Although this may seem like the distant future, you're likely going to run into this on your very first action shoot with strobes. It's a good idea to understand what is influencing your image. Forgive me, if this seems rudimentary or you already know it, this style of shooting is affected by two things. Flash duration, and ambient light. Shutter speed plays a small roll too. Let's start with ambient light. When you're in a controlled environment and you are able to control the amount of ambient light, it's a good idea to decrease it to the point that your autofocus still works but the light doesn't affect your image. I called this light contamination. It's unwanted ambient light that causes your images to blur as the action gets faster. You can reduce the amount of ambient light that gets to your sensor by increasing your shutter speed, closing down your aperture, and/or decreasing your ISO. However, sometimes your creative decisions don't allow for those adjustments. The alternative is cut more of the ambient light or go to HSS. You can also use a neutral density filter, but that starts getting into the flash duration challenge. You'd be surprised how dark you can make things just by decreasing your aperture or increasing your shutter speed. After you've eliminated unwanted ambient light, the next consideration is flash duration. Understanding, flash duration and the limits of your strobe equipment will help you keep your images super sharp. Most strobes, use a capacitor or some sort of energy storage device that allows the strobe to create a burst of light. To the naked eye, that burst of light happens in a millisecond. The reality is that burst of light reaches full power pretty quickly, but then tails off at the end. It's this tailing off at the end, and the amount of time it takes the light to disappear, that causes action blur in images. If you really want to nerd out you can explore what I call t-values (t.1 - t.5, etc). Check out a flash duration graph and you'll see what I mean about tailing off. The important takeaway is the higher your power setting, the longer the tail. The longer the tail, the longer the "drag" of light after the burst and so the longer your subject is being exposed to light. Think of the graph, and think of how much your subject moves while the light is slowly dissipating, that's the blur. It can be calculated, but who wants to do that, and that number would be ever changing under normal shooting conditions. OK, hopefully that makes sense. The way that photographers cheat and seem super smart, is they apply a shutter speed type speed to flash duration. That represents something most photographers understand, and it gives you an easy cheat to understand how the flash duration is going to affect your image. For the Godox 600 Pro, the estimated flash duration, which can change based on strobe variables, is below. Keep in mind that this is a guideline, not a hardcore number. You can still shoot lots of action at full power, you just have to test it. My personal opinion, unless you want to light a building or something from a really long distance, that isn't moving, I would not spend the money on the 1200. From the numbers below, you can see that the 1200 is going to be twice as slow as full power with the 600. I think you'll find yourself disappointed with the speed of the light and you'll probably not end up using it much at full power. At least not for action shots in the dark. :) After this, it'll be time to talk about second curtain or rear curtain shutters. I am pissed that Canon no longer offers this but with HSS it's easily gotten around nowadays. I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Cheers! Godox 600 Pro: Full power (1/1): 1/220 second 1/2 power: 1/330 second 1/4 power: 1/440 second 1/8 power: 1/660 second 1/16 power: 1/10,100 second

[@dance2jam]

@@358studios Sean, as always, your help, explanations, and time spent are very much appreciated. FAST FORWARD: From your videos and others (and reading) I'm very familiar with t0.5, t0.1 times, etc. Appreciate you typing those out anyway as a reminder (although I think the 1/10,100 second t0.1 time was for 1/256th power - not looking it up - but from memory). My question (as theoretical, since I'm not there yet) was as you turn down the power (to shorten t0.1) - you would need more light sources (i.e. another AD 600 or some other strobe) to both stop the dancer leaping, but also get a good exposure - without bumping up the ISO to brighten the image (and help the strobes out). If you shoot in HSS using shutter speed, you also get weaker flash power (I have no idea how much, but you said in your video at least 1/2 or 1 stop if I remember correctly). BACK TO THE QUESTION: So indoors, in a controlled space, lowering the light - and using perhaps modelling lamps to see your subject) I was just curious if more lights at low power were better than a more powerful light at 1/256th power - if that makes sense. This is all just to think ahead and slowly plan for what I really want to shoot someday. I know I'm going to have to experiment - and have a long way to go - but I like thinking ahead and you've been so helpful. As to rear-curtain - I've experimented with that as well (and ghosting) - I had no idea that Canon no longer offered that. Hummm.. Again, thanks for taking the time. You know I'll be back with some question down the road. Cheers back at ya.

[@codevox]

Hi Sean thank you so much for the great video. Which reflector is this in the video? thx Roger

[@358studios]

Hi Code, thank you for your comments and question. I appreciate it. That particular reflector is no longer available. Bummer, I know! I've been ask so many times about it. This is the closest I've found. Mine are 11" long throw. This is Wescott 9.5" 70 degree: amzn.to/3X0iMcD I hope that helps. Cheers.

[@aitanasanchezvidal1565]

Great video! What case would you recommend for the 3 lights??

[@358studios]

Hey there I just got asked this question twice in one week and realized I have not made a video about the case. :) I guess it's time. Here's the case on Amazon if you're interested: amzn.to/3GzFv67 The case is a pelican 1610 and I will be doing a video soon about how I set it up. Thank you for asking.

[@silviufilip]

move the screw to the top hole and it will fit the stud perfectly, the bottom fastens the hole on the side (which also fits perfectly)

[@358studios]

Hi Silviu, thank you for the tip. I will have to take a look at my lights and double check. I typically go through all available options but maybe I missed something or I have an older model. How do you use the AD600 pro? Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. Hey, did you by chance subscribe to my channel? Have a great day. Cheers!

[@bradmadison6397]

Hey! Nice no nonsense video. I use the Phottix lights and have been really happy with them... but looking at the Godox stuff because the battery on my Phottix lights is external and I would prefer an all in one system. The one thing I like about my Phottix system is that it can sync with all of my RT gear. Do you know if the Godox transmitter will fire canon RT speed lights? Thanks!

[@358studios]

Hi Brad, both your Canon RT and the XPro from Godox are running at 2.4 GHz but I've never tried to get the two to talk to each other, so I'm sorry I'm not much help. Canon has been very tight with their previous systems and would guess that they won't crossover, but if you find someone with a XPro and can test, please let me know. BTW the XPro is only $69, so you can buy several of those for every ST-e3-RT. Just a thought. Good luck!

[@bradmadison6397]

@@358studios Thanks for the reply! That is a very reasonable price for the xpro! But my reason for asking is because I’d like to continue using the canon speed lights I already own. I am guessing that the xpro will not speak to the RT system as even the Phottix system I bought had a specific one just for the RT system. I guess if I went the godox route I would end up having to buy some AD200’s to pick up where I used my speed lights. Thanks again!

[@tonyguerrero6791]

Great video! I just added the Flashpoint xplor 600 pro to my set up. I can't get it to work with my R2. Any suggestions?

[@358studios]

Hey Tony sorry about the delayed response. Did you get this to work for you?

[@miguelmejia8670]

Hi I have experienced a lot of problems with the 600 pro. I need to go through the whole set up of the flash when I do not use it consistently. And setting it up gives me trouble. Do you have a quick set up guide maybe?

[@358studios]

Hi Miguel, thank you for asking. I appreciate it. I’ve been asked this question quite a bit, so I think it’s time this weekend to sit down and do it. Be on the lookout. I’ll have something out soon. Hey by chance did you subscribe to my channel? Have a great day. Cheers.

[@Ushashri]

I would really like to know the reflectors you are using for the 600pro.. on the basketball court photos, I see 2 flashes, are they both ad 600pros? what are the reflectors used (brand and model) one has a diffuser as well I see. Can you please share the details, of the soft box/diffuser/reflectors used. Am interested in doing golden hour pictures as well as beach pictures against the sun photos, but never had anyone to show me. I have been trying to get the right equipment, have a ad 200pro, but that was not enough to overpower the sun. I still use it for studio portraits. Would love to learn more. 🙂

[@ghostkgaming7661]

Good work 😀👍👍👍😁 o

[@358studios]

Thank you for your comment!

[@jamiefraser87]

Regarding the modelling lamp - does the fan kick in when you get to over 20% brightness? I bought an AD400 Pro and was a bit disappointed at how loud the fan was when using the modelling lamp. I had a AD600 (non pro) and it was silent even with the modelling lamp at full power.

[@358studios]

Hi Jamie, that's a great question. I didn't test it but can tell you that I never noticed it either. Being LED vs filament bulb I would think that it is fairly cool. I don't use the model lamps unless I'm in the studio but again never noticed it. I admit that I've never tried to use these for video (I use the SL series) so I haven't really paid any attention. I'll have to check that out next time I'm shooting. Thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it.

[@ooltimu]

HSS is the same on all flashes. Basically what HSS does is trigger the flash multiple times per frame so that every slice of the sensor between the first curtain and the second curtain will get the flash light.

[@358studios]

Hi @ooltimu, I'm glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. You're correct! The general principle is the same for all HSS. Difference speedlights and strobes have different T values, which can change their performance, but at that point we're splitting hairs. For a majority of us, HSS will be HSS. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@dance2jam]

Looking to pick up my very first flash other than a Speedlight. I will be shooting dancers/sports so HSS is something I'm interested in (as well as portable, more affordable) and quick pulse duration. I am clearly a hobbyist and anticipate for this time of work shooting at 1/6000th of a second. I wish I knew what I was talking about. LOL. You still recommending this strobe or has one replaced it for that kind of fun shooting. Oh, the transmitter is a must as well. Thanks for this nice look inside! Well balanced.

[@358studios]

Hi dance2jam, I'm glad this video helped. Sounds like you're going to have some fun shoots no matter what you buy. :) My recommendation is based on how far you're going to take your photography. All features and portability can be found with the AD200 Pro (I have a video on it), but if you're looking to do this for a few years and want some flexibility in power, I'd stick to the AD600 Pro and add the AD200 Pro when you're wanting something smaller. Both have all the features (HSS, wireless trigger, etc...) and fit well as a system together (I regularly use both on the same shoot), so you can't go wrong with either. Please let me know if you have any other questions and I'll do my best to answer. Also, please let me know which you decide to buy. I appreciate it. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@dance2jam]

@@358studios 1st: Happy Holidays and Happy New Year. 2nd: If I didn't subscribe to your channel, I will now - i.e. Your response does make a difference! 3. When I first started dancing (for fun) my teacher was giving an interview to a magazine called 5,6,7,8 out of Nashville. She had just won the country western world championships. The interviewer asked her "Who do you teach?" and she responded "Competitors". The interviewer asked her if she ever taught "regular people". Response: No (I walked through the door then) and she corrected herself "Well,.....One...but he's not normal!" Needless to say, about 6 years later I competed with her in a dance we never did together and won. Her husband said "Now, that's dancing". Point is: "How far are you going to take your photography?" - I get it, but I'm not normal. LOL. (You know the kind...driven to be good and understand what I do). ;-) I am familiar with the Godox AD 200's by sight only. I do have a ton to learn = light/shadows - depth of an image - emotive - connection (same as dance and music) - and I know it takes time to learn the language of the type of photography I pursue and begin the process of learning it well. I'm sure I will have future questions. I'm so impressed you came back to help. I'll make sure to subscribe/like and follow up. I try to do my homework before purchasing. Every little bit of information helps speed up the process! Thank you so much for the holiday gift (response), and very happy holidays to you and yours. BTW: Is that an Avenger Roller Light stand I spot at the beginning of the video? (It's the only stand I know and I just learned about it yesterday - but not in my budget or need list - but sweet!).

[@358studios]

Hey there, happy holidays to you too. That's such a great story. I think you're gonna do awesome in photography. Yes feel free to ask any questions. I'll do my best to answer. The stand that you saw was a Matthews Hollywood Baby Junior triple riser. After the Italian Avenger was acquired by Manfrotto, I decided to go 100% Matthews. Personally, I think Matthews makes better equipment with a broader selection of specialized components, and they are a USA based company. Just my opinion. The good news about quality equipment is you will never need to replace it. I've had these Matthew stands for over 10 years and they still work perfectly. Fair warning that they are not for every shoot. I use the Impact C-Stands for my on-location shoots. They are heavy but are indestructible. Gear, gear, gear. :) Have a great rest of your holiday! Cheers.

[@cvzphotography]

Do you know the differences between the pro and the normal 600xplor strobes? I can't seem to find that info anywhere. Do you know if they are compatible with each other? Do they have different batteries? Thank you for the tutorial!

[@358studios]

Hi there. In general there doesn't seem to be a lot of difference (I don't own the Xplor), but if you're using the strobe unit regularly the differences will likely surface. For specs, the modeling lamps is 10w verses 34w (in LED terms that's like a 60w vs 175w regular bulb), the attachment to the light stand is made of plastic versus metal, the flash tube is not as protected, and the wireless trigger seems to be confusing and much bigger than the XPro. You'll have to decide, but for me it was worth the extra $200 per strobe to have the Godox 600 Pro.

[@AbdulWahab-vl1ru]

i wish i could have one :) one day ... for sure inshaAllah :)

[@358studios]

They are nice, but have you thought about starting with the AD200PRO? Same features just not as much power. Depending on what you're shooting, it could work well. Here's my video on that: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hGmcf355p8uclZo Please let me know your thoughts.

[@Metodisten]

Great video. Would have want to see color accuracy and continuity. Some flashes shift in color temperature between shots. But I guess thats what you pay for in Broncolor and similar expensive brands. But for me right now I don’t need the Broncolor accuracy. And can’t afford it. Looking at Godox or secondhand Elinchrom ELB/Quadra.

[@358studios]

Hi Johan, thanks for your comment. Yeah, color would be a consideration. Personally, I haven’t noticed any shifts. Not saying Godox doesn’t have this issue, but for the portraits that I shoot the consistency has been there.

[@Metodisten]

@@358studios Yeah, I think in portrait it’s not that important or sensitive. It’s probably more important in product photography and when you shoot fast multi shot burst and specially when shooting multi shot with pixel shift it’s helpful. But also, it’s nothing you can’t correct in photoshop. So the balance is in time and money if you need that accuracy.

[@dance2jam]

Hope you have been keeping busy. Just about to pick up the AD600 Pro and the Godox XPro II TTL Wireless Flash Trigger. Any thoughts on the new trigger? Also thinking about first modifier as close to a 22" octobox type. Any general thoughts there? How have you been Sean?

[@358studios]

Hey there... yes very busy. Great to hear from you. That's awesome that you're getting ready for the AD600 Pro. Thoughts on the new trigger... seems cool, seems bigger (not cool), and has studio functionality (like what you'd want if an assistant was setting lights prior to shooting). But, I'm an on camera guy most of the time. Especially, when taking pictures of people. The exception, and where I can see the new trigger being a benefit, it still life. Even then, I would argue it's faster to just take a shot than meter each light on set. I don't think I would find myself using the app or connecting directly to a meter. Used a meter in the old days and am so happy to not have to now. I've never had connectivity issues with the old trigger. It seems like the new one is on the same 2.4 GHz frequency as the old one, so not sure how that's better. For Octo softbox, I 1000% recommend the Cheetah Stand QSB-26, 36, and 42. I've been through a ton of softboxes, umbrellas, parabolics, deep octos, etc... Don't believe any of the marketing hype surrounding mfg claims and what they say they can do with light. Light is light, and the internal components of a box make almost no difference, with a few exceptions. Metal beauty dishes and true parabolics (not the market labelled para, but the para with a long adjustable post going through the middle). A true para is very impractical, heavy, and usually big, big, big, and the metal BD is not fun to lug around. The build quality of the Cheetah is far better than anything on the market, and it is very quick to set up. No spines or parts to keep track of. You pop it open, fix the velcro on the front diffuser and you're shooting. It's a 10-30 second setup. The 26 can also act as a semi diffused beauty dish (I have a video on BDs) :) giving you similar fall off as the BD. Personally, I love the versatility, the setup speed, and the round catch light. When you start to shoot on location, you'd be amazed at how nice it is to have all your gear lined up in parallel on your gear cart. :) Hopefully, that helps. Let me know how it goes. Cheers!

[@dance2jam]

@@358studios That was amazingly helpful, Sean. What stand would you use outdoors with the Cheetah Stand QSB - 22 (especially if shooting outdoors)? (Some day, will probably get a 34 and 46). Doubling as a beauty dish with the 22 is something I did have in mind. Remember, I'm a complete novice at this, so your advice is much appreciated. Love your practical approach and much valued experience. Gold Nuggets to my ears. My thought on a OCTO 22 to start was small, portable, more natural catch light. Of course I was hoping for easy/quick to set up and break down and durable. Light weight, clearly a plus. Glad you are busy (if it is a good busy). I'll go check out your videos again and will, most certainly, be back with more questions.

[@358studios]

Hi Dance, my thoughts on stands... don't put hundreds or thousands worth of equipment on a $60 stand. It's not worth it . :) Haha, brevity, the soul of wit. I probably need to do a video about stands. There's way more to them than people realize. The above thought is true, but I realize not everyone is looking to make a large investment in the right stand. I personally bought a stand every 2-3 months until I had my full compliment for shooting indoors and out. I've purchased just about every stand in the market and finally settled on three. I can testify that the rest are junk... or if you shoot a lot, will become junk. :) Outside of the basics, like stability, professional, take a beating, last a lifetime... in the studio, wheels are important and outdoors weight and portability are important. I talk about the third stand below. The stand I used in the studio is made by Matthews and it's called a Hollywood Baby Jr. triple riser. In my opinion, it is the best stand you can buy for studio work. The wheels are dialed (like if I push and let go the stand tracks straight across the length of the studio), and it is very stable. Don't waste any money on the fold out legs with wheels and pins at the bottom or adding wheels to smaller, light weight stands. You'll wish you hadn't. Of course, my stands cost a lot but in this case, if you take care of them, like keep the wheels dry, you will never need to replace them. So you can't go wrong indoors with this particular stand, but it's an investment. I own 8 of these stands. My outdoor setup is purposefully made up of big heavy C-stands from Impact. I know I'm going to beat them up and it doesn't matter to me that they're made out of steel because I need all the weight I can get in a good form factor to deal with the potential of wind (I still bag them). If you use lighter stands outside, even bagged, the wind and your subjects will eventually destroy your stands along with your equipment. These take a serious beating and so I expect to replace them about every 5-7 years, hopefully longer. The impact C-stand breaks down and adds a lot of options for different shooting conditions. I own 4 of these. Both of the above stands make using a 4' arm with grip head super easy. Like the small amount of extension you'll want when shooting with a beauty dish straight on. Last on the list is the light weight stand. I went again to Matthews. These are only used in office spaces or restaurants, where I control the entire environment and I know no one is going to bump into my equipment (I still bag them). I also don't need a lot of height. Think attorney office for headshots or restaurant for food shots. In this situation, both stands mentioned above are too big to fit in the small corner of an office. It's bad enough trying to get a modifier to fit in the room, but a large stand's footprint??? Never. :) I own 4 of these. All three have a 5/8" top stud that is NOT riveted or stamped into the tubing. With cheaper stands, I've lost several lights due to that connection snapping. And, all three use multiple points with heavy duty set screws and pads to make sure they don't slip. Cheaper stands will seem tight, until they're not. Like you pull on the head (again think wind) and the whole tube pops out. I hope this helps get you started. These three options aren't cheap, but that's kinda the point when it comes to stands. Making sure your equipment and subjects are safe. I've included a few links below so you can check out my setup. Please let me know if you have any questions. Side bar opinion, Matthews makes the best studio equipment out there. :) Cheers! Baby Jr Riser B&H: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/33087-REG/Matthews_H386020_Baby_Jr_Steel_Wheeled.html Impact stand: amzn.to/3ZE8UoP Matthews light weight: amzn.to/3MbaVpc

[@dance2jam]

@@358studios I sound like a broken record, but your advice is invaluable. Love your sense of humor! Okay, so here is the cool part - despite being new and despite never having owned a modifier, stand, bag, flag, grid...yada yada...I completely followed your logic and suggestions. Indoors, rollers, outdoors - stability and weight - and the paradox of portable but heavy wasn't lost on me. What really helps, Sean, is that you put more context to the discussion and then some meat in your recommendations - which really helps someone left to their own devices. I am making a list of your recommendations and when/if I order them I will use your links and come back here. It also doesn't hurt if after looking at the products I come back here and read your statements again. Thank you for taking the time! Much appreciated...and I'll be ready when that "Stand" video hits the tube!.

[@bahramfdelgoshaei545]

While I thank you for your insight, I think you should have also talked about the stroboscopic feature of the unit.

[@358studios]

Hi there. Thank you for the suggestion. I did think about that and decided not to include it. I wanted to keep the video as short as possible and targeted to a large group. I think the stroboscopic is cool, but in my opinion, it's super-specialized and very limited in its application. I think Godox labeled the feature and added the function because... why not it was already there. With HSS the physics are there just time it out and call it stroboscopic. :) Thank you for commenting.

[@BCSImaging]

Do you find you can boom it up and over on a shoot fine with a c stand? /are you counter balancing?

[@358studios]

Hi BCS, thank you for taking the time to ask. My answer is yes and no. Mostly depends on the distance away from the centerline of the stand, and your modifier. Do you bag your stand? I hope so. :) I've been able to comfortably bag my Matthews Baby Jr Triple Riser and use my Matthews mini boom (much higher quality but similar to Avenger amzn.to/3JgProB), with a 7' para modifier and extend about 4-5 feet from center. I was shooting with it in the middle of the model's face so only needed enough distance to get my camera underneath everything and clear the stand. I also found the use of the Matthews Dropdown Baby (Avengers version: amzn.to/465JJzS) to be very helpful when booming a strobe overhead. Takes all the stress off of the boom's stud and keeps the boom from wanting to twist. Personally, do not use counter-balances (unless for a completely professional production set, with only professionals onset. Usually for booming 10's of feet or more with equipment designed to handle the added stress.). Tried CB early in my career and only met trouble. In my opinion, if you can't boom the distance without it, you shouldn't be that extended. It's unsafe. It puts way too much stress on your equipment and it risks your model/client's safety (imagine CB slides off, strap breaks or boom snaps. Yes, it's all happened to me. :) ). I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any more questions. Happy to help. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@artandadventurerv]

Can you add a link to where we can find the deep reflector lampshade for the ad600 please?

[@358studios]

Hi Paige, thank you for asking. I'm working on it. I can't seem to find the ones that I have but will definitely update you as soon as I figure it out.

[@nigellambert1965]

at 14:18 you show Case that hold 3 unit where can i find that case i need to buy one. I also have three 600 pro .

[@358studios]

Hi there. I just got asked this question twice in three days and realized I have not made a video about the case. :-) I guess it's about time. Here's the case on Amazon in tan if you're interested: amzn.to/3GzFv67 The case is a pelican 1610 and I will be releasing the video soon showing you how I set it up. Thank you for asking.

[@JohanSchmidt]

What brand is the 11" deep reflector? - can you put up a link to it please?

[@358studios]

Hi @JohanSchmidt thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. The reflector is a deep, focus Dynalite. Unfortunately, Dynalite declared bankruptcy, but there is a reflector from Glow and from Cheetah Stand. Check out this video if you'd like to see my thoughts: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqO1e4yVmc6GgLs By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@inframebd3220]

apnr kaj teke 2 ta stan dilke ami kusi hobo just your fan...../ you r realy wosam.......love you

[@358studios]

?

[@whiterock1865]

I have godox but recently invest in profoto 4 light kit. Why, well I was getting overheating in some of the high volume shoots, but mostly because I'm part of a small group of photographers shooting certain types of events and they all have profoto, so now we're all on par for gear and lights. Otherwise I probably would have gotten godox or westcott. Profoto is great and has been reliable but dropping any strobe is bad, but profoto is keenly expensive to fix (my colleagues have had to pay for some repairs). You can have like 5 godox for cost of one profoto, so redundancy is easy if godox fails or overheats... Yeah, just get the best stuff you can afford...great images can be had from any of em.

[@358studios]

Thank you for commenting. Any chance you were shooting in HSS when you had the overheating issues? I've gone 1200 shots in one session and never had issues, as long as I was shooting HSS. :) Glad to hear you're happy with the Profoto. I could be, but I'm way too hard on equipment to spend more than I do on lighting and I really don't like being a gear target. It sounds like you're shooting with other photogs and can all watch each other's gear. Me, my stuff is always locked and cabled to the nearest fixed object when I'm shooting. LOL Have a great day! Cheers

[@richmac4581]

Love the video. You definitely need a Key grip in your life. 1 righty tighty, 2 weight over the fulcrum not under it.

[@358studios]

Hi Rich, thanks for the comments. I'm not totally following but if there is something to be learned please feel free to share.

[@jasonwhetzelphotography]

@@358studios I believe Rich is talking about the positioning of your clamps on your C stand. You always want the knobs to be positioned so that the weight at the end of the boom arm tightens the clamp, not loosens it. Call me a geek, but I actually noticed that, too. Before I ever saw this comment. Haha Having said that, great video.

[@358studios]

@@jasonwhetzelphotography Yup, I see what you are talking about. That was a prop. :) But, I'm setting a bad example :) I think I am going to do a video on this. I was in such a rush to get that stand put together I didn't even notice.

[@358studios]

Hi Rich, I just saw it! What a dork I am. I was in such a hurry to get the stand put together that I'm positive this grip arm came off of a smaller stand where I had to flip things around. That knuckle can be flipped. But, I'm setting a bad example for those that don't know. I appreciate you pointing that out. Now this definitely warrants a vidoe. :)

[@stevepettorelli6123]

What's the case you use to store the AD600PRo's? You mentioned it real quick.

[@358studios]

Hey Steve sorry about the delayed response. Your comment got buried for me. I'm using the 1610 by pelican. I've got this question three times in the last week and thought I made a video about it but looks like it's time. Thank you for asking have a great holidays

[@notjustyourphotographer4232]

At 10:43 you talk about shutter speed and sports photography and HSS. It is true that with natural/constant light the shutter speed is in fact what is freezing your motion. However, as soon as a strobe is introduced it is not longer the shutter speed which freeze motion rather than the flash duration of your flash. As other pointed out, HSS will make your light send several burst of lights and each of those bursts will create its own exposure. But if you instead keep your light within the flash speed sync of your camera, and ope up your aperture, you are able to turn down the power of the strobe. This will usually (depending on the strobe) give a t01 flash duration about 1/3000 s or faster which will freeze the motion in ONE go...

[@358studios]

Hey there. Thank you for taking the time to ask this question. I think you may be making a statement, but your statement needs a bit of clarifying because introducing a strobe does not negate or take away the ambient light that you control through your shutter settings. It only introduces another light source that also has to be controlled in addition to… Like other photography questions, your answer is yes and no, and without a right or wrong answer. :) Let's start with why shoot outdoors with strobes if a fast shutter in natural light will freeze motion. Outdoors is typically where you'll run into the natural light question the most, but this applies to portraits with natural window lighting too, etc… Strobes is an artistic choice. I personally love the look, the clarity, and the flexibility it offers my images. With strobes and natural light, I can pretty much shoot anything or take boring and make it interesting. With a little bit of setup, I can darken distracting backgrounds, light interesting foregrounds, create rim light, focus the audience's attention, and pop my subject through the image, almost like 3D. I love it! That's not to say that I don't appreciate a simple fast shutter and natural light photography every now and then, but my mind is always asking, what would this look like if I could light it? There are times when you can't use strobes or flash (concert venues), and for those times I stick to natural light. So, why strobes outdoors with HSS? Why not stay at 1/200th (Nikon 1/250th) and open your aperture and decrease your strobe power? The reason is ambient light. Introducing a strobe does not negate or take away the ambient light flowing through your shutter. All you’ve done is add another light source. I'm sure you know that 1/200th shutter will not freeze motion. Strobe or no strobe. If there's any ambient light and you're at 1/200th your image is going to look blurry or start to "ghost" (ghosting is a whole video by itself). You may not notice it unless you look closely but it’s there. This issue will be more exaggerated in your images as you start to lose one light source dominating over the other. E.g., sunset or strobe power too high in full sun. 1/200th is just not fast enough to freeze motion under any condition involving ambient light. So, why can you freeze motion in a studio using a 1/200th shutter and a fast flash duration? Because there is no ambient light. In the studio, all lighting is controlled. I can take the exact same situation above, 1/200th and fast flash duration, and change my shutter speed to 4-5 seconds (assuming modeling lights are off and there’s no “light pollution” from other light sources) and get the same crispy results. That's because the strobe and its flash are the only light source. Shutter speed becomes irrelevant. Now the relevant consideration is flash duration. OK, back to why strobes outdoors with HSS. Let’s go back to our outdoor setting. We have ambient light or light pollution everywhere, and we want to use strobes for an artistic reason. How do we control two different light sources when we are restricted to a blurry 1/200th camera sync speed for our shutter due to the strobe? Some may say neutral density filters. Yes, that will help control the amount of light, but doesn’t get you a faster shutter speed. Different topic for a different day. The real answer is to use HSS to control both light sources at the same time. HSS should really be called, “Camera Shutter Sync”. Instead of slowing down the operation of your camera for a strobe, you’re speeding up the operation of the strobe to keep up with your camera. You’re able to control the ambient light using your shutter speed while also being able to control your strobe output for artistic reasons. There are some limitations, but those limitations are better and much more forgiving than the blurry ambient light “drag” you get when using a slow shutter speed. I hope this helps highlight that introducing a strobe does not get rid of your ambient light issues, it just adds another light source, and that when you want to use a strobe HSS allows you to control the ambient light or light pollution in your image by adjusting your shutter speed. Also, that a controlled studio setting does not translate to shooting outdoors with strobes, and that turning up or down your strobe power has no relationship to how crispy your images will be when ambient light can pollute your image. I realize this was long and thank you for reading. I think I’m going to make this a video. :)

[@notjustyourphotographer4232]

@@358studios It was a statement, not a question. I know perfectly well how it works ;) Of course, you are not taking away the ambient light in my suggestion. and yes, of course, there will be some motion blur in the areas NOT lit by the strobe. You say "I'm sure you know that 1/200th shutter will not freeze motion. Strobe or no strobe." For sure...noone is saying the shutter is freezing motion in that scenario, its the flash duration which freezes motion. I have done that several times myself, I know it works. You also say " and that turning up or down your strobe power has no relationship to how crispy your images will be when ambient light can pollute your image". But that is has DIRECT relationship to crispier images....lower power on the strobe - faster flash duration - more freeze on the subject lit by the strobe

[@358studios]

@@notjustyourphotographer4232 As long as it works well for you, awesome.

[@oopppppp]

i have always wondered that, so if the flash is my main light source i should be able to freeze an athlete at 1/250 ?

[@oopppppp]

@@358studios great explanation and great video

[@montazownianr1]

It's not longer aviable in my country they replaced with TTL version. As far I know TTL will not work in manual mode, so that transmitter will not be able to set my lamp wiressly?

[@358studios]

Hi there. This is confusing, because TTL is so much more complicated than manual. So, usually you will see companies have manual as a feature before TTL. What transmitter are you using and what is the new part number of the model you're looking to buy?

[@montazownianr1]

@@358studios I will use Godox X Pro with godox ad600 pro ttl and ad 200pro

[@kennypringle4580]

Good videos my friend. If you ever have need for an assistant who’s fairly local to you I’m here. I think you’d be a good dude to hang out and shoot with.

[@358studios]

Hey thanks Kenny. You never know. :) Are you looking to do more studio work or team shoots?

[@kennypringle4580]

@@358studios I’m very much interested in improving my studio work. I have more to learn in lighting. As for team sports I’ve done quite a lot of team sports and individual sports portraits while shooting for other photography companies. I’ve traveled Northern California shooting little league and highschool graduation ceremonies. If you ever need an assistant, or just another photographer to discuss the art of it all I’m here neighbor. El Dorado, Calif.

[@ProDrummer]

I´m gonna buy the AD600BM. It´s the same but without TTL, which i dont need in anyway... and price is a bit cheaper.

[@358studios]

Sounds good. I never use TTL and should have looked at these when purchasing. Thanks for the comment and please let me know your experience.

[@lensam3289]

Does this have a trigger to connect with my iPhone? I would like to see if I can get better quality photos with my iPhone with this product….

[@358studios]

Hey there sorry about the delayed response. I haven't seen a trigger for an iPhone yet but that doesn't mean there's not one out there. Please let me know what you find might be a great video for the future.

[@whiterock1865]

How's the color stability? I heard the ad200 is great, but the ad300 stinks for color temp stability?

[@358studios]

Hi there, I have the 200 and 600. Never had any issues with color stability. Hot or cold they seem to work great. I haven't tested the 300 yet.

[@rickjbradbury]

HSS is very inefficient power wise losing 2 stops often. Also not great for freezing movement as the flash has to pulse. But it is handy for portraits where you want to open up your F-Stop though. N/ice to have for when needed either way. Wait how did a 600 pro end up in this cart? Oh well might as well.

[@358studios]

Haha, yes super inefficient and hot! I have had good luck getting up in the 1/4000 range but haven't pushed it further. For me, seems to do well to freeze action.

[@Collin2377]

Are these specifically for different cameras ? Or this AD600 works for all cameras ? I have a Nikon D750 and Sony A6500,

[@358studios]

Hi Ellis, thank you for asking. The AD600Pro will work for any camera. The trick is the remote that I use Godox XPro-C (Canon wireless trigger): amzn.to/2Czvbj5 is specific to a camera brand. Godox makes one for Nikon, you can find it here on Amazon: amzn.to/3iceYCR and one for Sony: amzn.to/3cfjLQf . Sorry I don't of a universal remote out there for this system, but for the price you really can't go wrong.

[@Collin2377]

@@358studios thanks a lot

[@ThePtaher]

hi there, I have a Godox v860ii(c, Canon version)and a Godox AD600 Pro with a Godox XPRO-C transmitter. I've recently bought a Sony camera, I probably can't use v860ii with sony (please confirm), my question is if I buy a new transmitter for my Sony camera, can I use AD600 Pro?

[@358studios]

Sorry for the late reply. I thought I had already... :) Yes, if you buy the XPRO for Sony you will be able to use the AD600 Pro. The strobes are not camera specific. My guess is, because of high speed sync, the trigger has to be.

[@saibhargavamanda8583]

That power drop n limited shots in HSS, I was completely unaware off. Is it the same case with AD400pro also? Im totally confused between choosing a AD600pro vs AD400pro. Can u pls make a video on that. Whats ur suggestion for outdoor action?

[@358studios]

Hi there. Yes you will experience a drop in power for every high speed sync product on the market. It just happens to be the physics of how they make high speed work. Although the difference between the 600 and 400 is not a lot I would always choose a larger light outdoors if you have a convenient way to pack it. Form factor between the two is about the same. Please let me know what you decide and did you by chance subscribe to my channel? Have a good evening.

[@saibhargavamanda8583]

@@358studios I still confused in understanding, how big of a difference Is between 400 n 600 power. n practicall problem on location related to it. The one big reason Im leaning towards 400pro is better weight but howmuch its going to trouble me interms of power is a big confusing question to me.

[@saibhargavamanda8583]

@@358studios yes I did subscribe😃

[@holdmyown32]

11:26 was there a light just for the backboard on this shot? Or was the spread of light enough to hit her and the backboard?

[@358studios]

Hi @holdmyown3228, thank you for asking. I appreciate it. I did light the backboard with a separate light. I didn't have a grid with me that day, but I would have used it to help isolate the backboard without including the ground or pole. Make it a bit more edgy. You probably already know about the inverse square law of light, but that is one of the reasons I choose to light the backboard too. If you're not familiar with it, I'm happy to explain more and how it relates to this situation. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@holdmyown32]

@@358studios appreciate your answer, and Ted I know the inverse square law. I just didn’t see a 3rd light in the video so wanted to confirm if there was a light specifically for the background. Also, I am subscribed.

[@rangerrobsbbq]

Which case do you carry your 600's in

[@ldmndz4652]

Question..does this have the TCM mode on the screen..TCM mode like in the GODOX V1..TCM mode is a button selection you can press when you have the flash in TTL Mode..when you press TCM it basically tells you what the power output the flash just made and transfers it to Manual..so its like a quick way to have a base guideline within the scene..and from there you can make minor adjustments...does anyone know if this GODOX AD600 has that capability?..TCM selection?..thank you..

[@358studios]

Hi there, I have no idea. I have never use TCM as I am mostly a strobe shooter and not a flash shooter. It sounds like this is something for speed lights. Please let me know your thoughts. Have a great day. Cheers.

[@MarcusPocus]

about the battery.. some comments on Amazon said that the battery stop working after few shoots.. any details about it?? ..it’s a true issue or a bad manipulation of those ones who’s have written the bad comments??

[@358studios]

Hi Marc, thank you for your question. I'm sure, as with all products and especially with batteries, there are a few that don't work well. Even Apple has a certain percent of iPhones and iPads that have to be repaired at the Genius Bar after every release. For me, my batteries have been rock solid. No charging issues and no duration problems. One more thought, some of the reviews could be from inexperienced photographers thinking that they should get 600-800 pops at full power just like they did at 1/8 power. Never going to happen. The thing about any battery, not just Godox, is going from 1/2 power to full power isn't like going from 100% to 50%. It's more like going from 100% to 35%. Many photogs just simply don't understand their own equipment, so they leave a bad product reviews thinking they've been duped. I have 6 batteries for 4 strobe heads and over 100,000 images on that setup with no issues. My single complaint is the audible beep for low battery... could be much louder, or at least adjustable. Many times I've been shooting only to realize I'm ten shots in on a dead battery (obviously multi-strobe setup). I hope that helps.

[@lilianaorozco19]

can you comment on the other features..like mask lighting..if this device has it?

[@358studios]

Hi there. You must be shooting product. :) I'm not sure if it has mask lighting. If not, with product photography you can accomplish the same results via your settings and zone presets. It may be a lot of switching back and forth though. I personally wouldn't try this with people as subjects. I think it would create more work for me in post and with PS getting as good as they are with subject selection, I would tend to use PS instead of strobes. I'm interested in your experience and how this turns out for you. Please let me know and thank you for commenting.

[@thegreatujo]

It has masking. I own a AD600Pro.

[@stevesavage2135]

What reflectors are you using on the heads?

[@358studios]

Hey Steve, they are an 11” deep reflector by Dynalite. I haven’t been able to find them again, but I think Godox makes something similar.

[@joeybailey9628]

i just bought the ad600 pro and my camera only allows 160 shutter at high speed sync how do i fix this?

[@358studios]

Hi @joeybailey9628, I'm glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. High speed sync is not decided by your camera. That would be really nice and I wish camera manufactures would figure out how to do that but it just isn't a reality for us photographers shooting with anything below medium format cameras (DLSRs or mirrorless). However, the AD600 Pro and the trigger have a setting for HSS. Once you set these, be ready to follow the rest of the criteria in this video (about half as much power and overheating issues). This has everything to do with the strobe unit and nothing to do with your camera. Please let me know if you have any other questions and or your thoughts. I am here to help and happy to answer questions. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@badaboom2995]

Thank you!! Your reflector 11" and 45 degree?

[@358studios]

You're welcome. Yes, 11" and it doesn't have a degrees as far as I know, but it does a good job of focusing the light more than 45. I hope that helps.

[@filmsbykelly]

@@358studios Great review. Do you have a link for the 11 inch reflector?

[@358studios]

@@filmsbykelly Hey there, the ones I have are Dynalite 11". They don't seem to be available anymore. The closest I could find was the Glow Long Focus Reflectors. Here: amzn.to/31hD45M

[@PiBou321]

why do you need HSS when you have a 1/10000 speed light ? The movements are easaly frozen at this speed, isn't it ?

[@358studios]

Hi @PiBou321, thank you for taking the time to comment. Your comment is correct only when you're in a dark room without any ambient light sources (that will affect exposure). In that situation, the strobe is the only light source and the shutter is not a factor. I'm sure you're familiar with the pictures showing a model with paint frozen around her looking like clothing. Those are shot in a dark studio with strobes as the only light source. The rest of the time you have to contend with ambient light sources by adjusting your shutter speed (aperture doesn't come into play in this discussion). Although your strobe's flash duration may be able to go as low as 1/10,000 of a second, your camera's sync speed for flash is usually around 1/200 of a second. Many times, that's way too slow and blows out the image with ambient light. In order to compensate, there are two solutions. Use a neutral density filter or increase your shutter speed and use HSS. This is just the tip of the iceberg, but I hope it helps. Please let me know. I appreciate it. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@dance2jam]

Hey Sean, I told you I'd be back with questions - ready? ;-) I'll try to keep it quick (and I'll go review your video on the Godox AD 200. 1. Flashpoint (re-branded Godox) - does it matter? 2. The versatility, portability, affordability, and ability to work off one trigger makes this system a serious consideration for people like me as well (new to lighting). 2. Would it make more sense (I realize I'm asking you a question without you knowing me or my work) to start with the AD 200s? and determine if I need the extra power or advantages? I assume the AD 200 PRO is more money than the AD200. Advantage? (sorry if you answered this in your other video). Let's just say, beginning general portraiture with occasional "freeze action - i.e. jumping/dance moves/spins"? Does HSS work when the flash is in Manual Mode?

[@358studios]

Hey, no worries. Keep asking questions. Maybe I’ll do another video. :) Flashpoint vs Godox, me, I stick with same brand. While they may be made in the same factory with the same company, I figure be safe. You’re not saving much by mixing and sometimes there are tweaks to make one or the other different. AD200 vs AD200PRO, for me this boils down to lens choice. Warning, this won’t be what you’re expecting. :) If you’re shooting with a fast lens and you want to stay below f/2.8 the AD200 just can’t get there. Your only choice is to move the light further away to reduce the amount of light, which changes your shadow comp without a larger modifier. The AD200 Pro goes down to 1/256 which is low enough to use as a fill when wide open on your lens. Yes, I always shoot in manual and the HSS works great in manual. I’m not a fan of TTL so haven’t tried it, but in manual you’re good to go. I hope that helps. Please keep the questions coming. Cheers.

[@dance2jam]

@@358studios Your answers were spot on. I understood them (which must show I'm at least learning something). I took my Nikon SB700 speedlite and shot a few portraits of my girlfriend with the 105mm f/1.4 @ f/1.4 and shutter speed 1/8000th or close. The only reason for the shoot (other than I love taking photos of her) was to test out using HSS in manual mode. Something I never did in the 4 years I owned the flash. It became very apparent, just doing this once, that even to get to f/2.8 at midday meant 5 stops of SS (i.e. 1/3200) - and two more stops to shoot at f/1.4 - puts you up against that preverbal wall (1/8000). Glad to hear that both the AD200 and AD600 pros work with HSS in manual mode. I started shooting in manual mode with the camera and liked the control (does that say something about me?). I already put the speedlites in manual (for HSS) so that's the plan. I appreciate you being open to questions. I know you have better things to do. BTW: Love the videos. Enough blend of information and fun, and your personality is out front. Refreshing and again, can not thank you enough.

[@MrHeGotGame]

You listed a link to everything except the 11" Bowens mount reflector.

[@358studios]

Hey sorry about the delayed response. Your comment got lost somewhere in the mix of everything. The 11 inch reflectors are no longer available and I have been searching for a suitable solution. I believe Godox has something and possibly Photix

[@steveb013]

hi , i'm a beginner of studio photography and I have the choice of AD 400 Pro or AD 600 Pro along 2 AD's 200 Pro, which one do you think it will be the best ? I'll be shoothing if my small living room studio :) and this summer probably outdoor ( I don't know if it will be at sun, sunset, shade ) I don't know but I want to not buy for nothing. for example buying the 600 pro and not using it for the extra feature that the 400 Pro have, let me know what you think thanks

[@358studios]

Hi there, sorry for the delayed response. Moving. Not fun! Anyway, from the stuff you described it sounds like some shooting for fun but maybe not longer, paid jobs. Is that correct? If that's the case, I'd go with the AD200 Pro's. 200 watts gives you plenty of power to do some fun stuff, will light a small living room studio while letting you keep the gear footprint small, and will give you plenty of options for outdoor portraits. The 200 has all of the features that the 600 has with less power. I wouldn't bother with the AD400 Pro. It's unnecessarily in the middle of the two without offering much over the AD200 Pro. Go straight to the 600 if you're starting to do paid work and need more power and battery (which isn't always necessary). By the way, my next video will be about how you can get paid work doing business portraits with an AD200 Pro. Literally, you can't go wrong with the AD200 Pro even if you've been shooting for years. I use both of mine all the time even though I also own 4-AD600 Pros. Please let me know what you decide and I'd love to see some of the images you produce when you do. :)

[@steveb013]

@@358studios i choose the 400 along the 2 x 200's i hope that i will not regret my choice evec it only 1/2 stop less than the 600

[@358studios]

@@steveb013 They are all good lights. You'll enjoy them.

[@steveb013]

@@358studios I saw a lot of videos from gavin hoey from adorama, and the majority of his videos are with the AD400 pro and 1 or 2 ad200 PRo, I'm just a beginner in the studio photography and I think that I will have plenty stuff to do 90% of the job ?, what do you think ? I don't have a lot of softboxes or reflectors, but time to time on the future weeks I'll equip myself with those things, for right now I have a 36" octobox with the grid, I check to for the AD-S2 reflector for the 200'S or with the AD-S11, I think its enough to begin with ? for the HSS with the 400' do you think I will be able to do some ?

[@358studios]

@@steveb013 It really depends on what you're shooting. 75% of my portraits of women, I end up liking the light from a 26" Cheetah Stand Rice Bowl. Sometimes i fill with a reflector. It's a collapsible octa with a beauty dish type plate inside and it's very easy to setup/take-down and very portable. Your 36" will act very similarly. What are you shooting that needs HSS? Also, try to get equipment that crosses over to other equipment. The AD-S2 is super small and only works on the AD200 Pro, but if you purchased the 7" standard reflector (using the S2 bracket) not only can you more easily mount it on a stand, it has more throw, it's larger, and you can also use the 7" with your AD400 Pro. Just some thoughts.

[@barxkyRC]

what is that aluminum dish reflector? and where can i get it? thank u for this review

[@358studios]

Hi D-Vinz , thank you for taking the time to ask. I guess I was one of the last lucky ones. This is a Dynalite 11.25" Narrow Beam Reflector that I bought from B&H in 2018. After close to 50 years in the business, Dynalite filed bankruptcy. The closest I've seen on the market is the Westcott "Deep focus" reflector: amzn.to/3TPDb2t If you by chance use Paul C Buff, I used to before adding the Godox AD600Pro, then their 11" long throw is the reflector that I used for many years and it works very well: www.paulcbuff.com/Light-Modifiers/Reflectors/11-Long-Throw-Reflector.html Unfortunately, the Dynalite is the best I've used and has held up extremely well. Please let me know what you decide to do. I'd like to get your feedback. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day! Cheers.

[@barxkyRC]

@@358studios thank u so much yes i subscribed to your channel. will the paul c buff works with the godox ad400 pro? thats the one i have...and not the ad600 pro

[@barxkyRC]

@@358studios also what kind of c stand is that looks very heavy duty....where can i get it?

[@358studios]

Hi Vinz, thank you for asking. The AD400 Pro and the AD600 Pro use the same Bowens mount. Paul C Buff uses the Balcar mount. Both are great mounts. To get an adapter you kind of have to build it yourself. Here's what I mean. All the adapters are assuming you want to go from Balcar to Bowens. So the Bowens side of the adapter is a female connection. To go the other way, Bowens to Balcar you need the Bowens side to be a male connection. I think you can take these two adapters, unscrew them and switch them so they will work for you. Please check them out and let me know what you think and how it goes. Balcar to Bowens: amzn.to/3LX4lTn Bowens male: amzn.to/3ZvTuTf Cheers.

[@358studios]

Hi Vinz, the stand I'm using is made by Matthews and it's called a Hollywood Baby Jr. triple riser. In my opinion, it is the best stand you can buy for studio work. Of course they cost a lot, but in this case, if you take care of them and keep the wheels dry, you will never need to replace them. Also, my opinion, when it comes to equipment, Matthews makes the best. So you can't go wrong, but think of it like you're investing in your retirement. :) I bought these stands over time and now have 8 of them. My outdoor setup is purposefully made up of big heavy C-stands from Impact. I know I'm going to beat them up and I need all the weight I can get in a good form factor when dealing with the wind (I still bag them). They will likely be replaced once every 5-7 years. The Baby Jr.'s are a lifetime purchase. I hope that helps. Here's the link to B&H: www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/33087-REG/Matthews_H386020_Baby_Jr_Steel_Wheeled.html Cheers.

[@CinematographyLischkaChannel2]

i have bought one lets hope it wasnt a bold decision to buy the cheapest option

[@358studios]

Hi Videographen, I'm glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@Gabrielcarophotography]

what's the case you use for the lights? thanks

[@358studios]

Hey there. Thanks for asking. Here’s the case I use for three lights but I bet you could get 4 in there if you wanted. amzn.to/3n2K4fl Pelican Stormcase 2950

[@Gabrielcarophotography]

@@358studios thanks 🔥

[@AlainAnhTruong]

can this be triggered by a Sekonic light meter?

[@358studios]

Hi @AlainAnhTruong, thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. I'm totally unsure! If you find out please let me know and I'll pin the answer for others. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@alanvelazquez6016]

do you think the ad600 is better than the Wescott fj400?

[@358studios]

Hi there, thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. I can't speak to the FJ 400 because I don't own one. They look very similar except for one thing, 400w vs 600w. I don't think the FJ series has a 600w option at this moment. The batteries are close, but the FJ wins in milli amp hours. I think it just comes down to what you want to do with your lights. For a direct comparison, Godox makes a AD400 Pro. That may be worth taking a look. Please let me know how it goes. Cheers.

[@mtminded4498]

The unit only gives you about (50) flashes at full power when shooting HHS, what about shooting HSS at reduced power? If at 1/2 power will you get around (100) HSS flashes before overheat and even more as you drop power settings to 1/8 or 1/16th? Is the ratio of HSS power settings to safe temperature range linear?

[@358studios]

Hi @mtminded4498, thank you for asking. I appreciate it. I tested this, and what I came up with was very anecdotal. It seems that most of this comes down to your heat management and sense of how hot the unit should be. Here's what I mean. When I brought it down to half power and slowed down, I was able to get around 100 to 120 shots before I had to stop and wait for the unit to cool down. So to answer your question I don't think this is a linear ratio, but more based on a number of factors. Your heat management, how quickly you shoot, the ambient temperature, is the unit in the shade or in the sun, etc... What I do is use 50 as a baseline and then add in the other factors to get a sense of when I think I'm going to overheat. I make adjustments like speeding up or slowing down based on where I think I am in that heat range. I hope this helps. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@mtminded4498]

@@358studios Thanks so much for performing tests and sharing your results. I shoot contracted sporting events like 5K'S 10K'S, Marathons and cycling so I can't control the frequency of athletes who pass my shooting station but I can control how much fill light I try to get out of the strobes. Hoping that since the unit has so much native power, popping at 1/16 or 1/32 or even less in rapid succession will not overwhelm the unit. There are often spans of several minutes between athletes followed by sustained groups without breaks. Unfortunately we're often in the hot sun so it sounds like ambient temps will be a big factor. I couldn't tell if the (50) flashes at full power was a pre-programmed number inside the unit or if that number is under regular ambient temps. Your answer seems to have shed a lot of LIGHT on the subject. Thanks again for your insights.. and yes, your reply earned my subscription!

[@358studios]

I love these kinds of discussions and challenges. Here are a few thoughts to ponder. Please forgive me if you already know about HSS. HSS is accomplished by firing the light multiple times within a single shutter exposure. Our eyes only see one pop but really there are several short bursts in that single shutter click. This is why there is a reduction in power and why the unit heats up so quickly. The lower your power setting, the less powerful the bursts, the less heat is generated. A unit sitting in full sun will cause the unit to naturally heat up and I believe over time would damage the unit in and of itself. I use a white mesh bag with a drawstring over the unit to provide some shade and keep the sun from damaging it. Something else you might consider is a neutral density filter. An ND filter would allow you to turn off HSS and go with straight strobe. It sounds like your style is to have the athlete highlighted and pop a little bit out of the background. If you play around with this, you might find that the neutral density filter allows you to darken up the background even further and gives you full use of your strobe. No heat consideration and no reduction in power. This is all assuming that the action you're catching can be frozen within the limits of your shutter sync speed. I use an ND filter for much of my outdoor work and it may be worth testing for yours? Just a thought. Please let me know how it goes.

[@mtminded4498]

@@358studios I am aware of how HSS works but thanks for reinforcing knowledge here for those who don’t. I also understand a ND filter lets you set a low F number (large aperture) for blurry backgrounds, without overexposure, but that’s not what I’m needing to solve for. I often shoot with a medium to large F number to get more depth-of-field for when athletes are stacked several people deep or when groups are not all at the same distance from camera. I must also set a fast shutter speed to freeze motion, especially for cycling events, and to limit the amount of light in bright conditions so both of these, along with proper ISO setting, allows me to get a proper exposure but here’s the rub: We’re often forced to shoot into the sun, either because that’s how the start-finish line is oriented or the sun moves behind the athletes throughout the day. Due to the nature of the events, we cannot shoot at slow shutter speeds or we don’t freeze action so that setting is non negotiable, leaving only aperture and ISO. If athletes are back-lit and we adjust settings to get their face properly exposed, then the environment is often blown out, way too bright. If we expose for a more natural environment, then their face is in shadow and too dark. So, to get both natural exposed environment and light on face (when back-lit), we use fill light with strobe. Since we’re forced to use high shutter speed, that necessitates HSS. The trick is finding a strobe that can fire HSS pops in rapid succession as athletes pass, often for long durations of time. 1:1 flash would be too much so a fraction of flash power is adequate for brightening shadows when subject is back-lit by the sun. I’ve also investigated hyper-sync that, instead of using pulsed flashes throughout the duration of the high speed exposure, it uses a single pulse with a very long flash duration. The 600 Pro has the ability to do this but you have to tinker with the timing delay to match your shutter curtains. This approach is best when you need maximum flash output during fast shutter speeds. Since I don’t need maximum output, hyper-sync isn’t the best solution for my particular use case. There are other channels that said the 600 Pro will halt after X-number of HSS flashes regardless of power level, however your experiment shows the frequency of flashes and power level impacts thermal cut-off. It’s my understanding that removing the battery for a moment will reset the HSS flash tally so that may be a workaround if a pre-determined quantity of HSS flashes, regardless of power level, within a given time span, are locking things up. I know this can be risky if you’re circumventing a legitimate overheating situation but it’s a shame if the unit is not taking actual temp readings or making calculations based on power levels when determining thermal protection measures. I like the ideal of the white mesh bags for shade. Are these commercially available or something you DIY’d?

[@358studios]

Thank you for the explanation. It makes total sense now what you're doing and the limitations. The bags were something I purchased on Amazon: amzn.to/3F02fND these are the ones I purchased but I think I would go slightly larger next time. I tried the battery removal trick and other than helping to cool the unit it didn't reset anything for me. I did notice that a complete swap of the battery gave me about 15-20 more shots, but in the end the effort wasn't worth it. In your situation, and if nothing else works, my brain goes to the Hasselblad’s H6D and X series cameras with a 1/2000 second flash sync speed or the Phase One XF with 1/1600 second flash sync speed. Of course, you'd have to be making some good money doing what you're doing to justify it. :) Please let me know what you end up with. I'd like to make another video in the future going into more depth on this subject. Cheers.

[@poplogic17]

At 14:19 in the video, what hard case are you using to transport your strobes?

[@358studios]

Hi Dan, thank you for asking. I've been thinking about doing a video on the case and its configuration. Would you find that helpful? It's a Pelican 1610 case. It's great for protecting your gear. I beat the heck out of it. You won't need another one. Mine is 9 years old and still working great. I was able to fit 3-AD600 Pro units with batteries and cord section (if using AC pack). You can find it here on Amazon: amzn.to/3gkBef5 Please let me know your thoughts. Cheers!

[@poplogic17]

@@358studios Thanks for the quick reply - especially for one of your older videos! A video on that case would be awesome! I recently took the plunge and invested in two AD600 Pro strobes, and your video was a big help in making that decision. So now I'm looking for a way to schlep these monsters to shoots safely and easily. Thanks for the info, and wishing you continued success.

[@358studios]

Video coming soon... :) Cheers!

[@poplogic17]

@@358studios You're the man! Thank you!!

[@poplogic17]

Thank you for delivering on that case video!! Wishing you continued success!

[@richschmitt100]

You didn't attach the link for the AC Adapter.

[@358studios]

Hi Rich, sorry about the delayed response. Frankly I would not invest in the AC adapter again unless I was in studio shooting full power for half a day. I've had nothing but good luck with the batteries and even in studio they give you flexibility to move lights around without worrying about power outlet. I believe the adapters are available on B&H. I hope that helps please let me know how it goes for you and what you decided.

[@MarisaFotosensible]

Exceptional! I have just unboxed 2xAD300 PRO , 2 x 140 Octos with grid, which together with my Godox V1 and my Fujifilm x H1 equipment, I have to shoot an sport Team in Groups of ten in action in one only session, with no second chances nor in the swimming pool or location, and only me, the Trainer and each Group in Water never out of water together without mask , subordinated as we are all to the very strict health limitations imposed by the pandemic. I am considering the Group to Stay in one of the corners of the 50 x 20 mts indoor Swimming pool in order I can position the 2 x 300pro in V , and the V1 maybe at the opposite side of the 20 mts wide as backup light... what other lighting scheme would you suggest for this so extraordinary but challenging situation .9 days countback is already running. Thanks so much for your attention. ;)) any suggestion is welcome ! Thanks

[@358studios]

Hi Marisa! Sounds like fun. Have you done this type of shoot before? This sounds like a swim team. Correct? Are you using the V1 to trigger your AD300 Pros or maybe a Godox XPro? I think your V formation with your lights will give you the most flexibility. The V1 in the background sounds good as long as you can hide the flash behind your subjects so you don't flare your lens and my own preference is that the rim light it creates around your subject isn't overpowering. I personally can't stand it when the background light is so hot it dominates the subject and is distracting. If you darken the background via settings, you probably won't need the V1 as a backlight. 90% of my shoots don't use any backlight. Oh and bring your reflectors as backups. Your octos will cut some of your light and you may need them. Personally, why I go from AD200Pro straight to the AD600Pro. One more swim team tip, I'd keep them out of the water until the very end. Girls don't typically like getting in the water before everything else because of their hair, and anyone that's been in the water and is left standing waiting for their turn at more pictures will be freezing! If your team formation is going to be in the water, shoot it last. This is one reason I bring a ladder to swim shoots. I don't shoot them in the water, but instead on the pool edge. You can check out my IG and see some samples. Get your basics shot and then experiment with fun stuff. Sometimes, after all the basics I will run two lights at 45 degrees with one in front and one in back, on offsetting sides. You could fill with the V1 if you wanted. This can have a more dramatic look for sports pictures. If you are in doubt at all about your setup, grab a friend, and practice your lighting. Be aware that hot lighting will require your groups to be flat to the camera or faces may fall into the shadows and be dark. Hey, I hope this helps. Please let me know how your shoot goes.

[@CarlBlock-hc1fz]

200-300ft for the controller must be in the line of sight. Shot around a concrete bend and the controller suffered a weak trigger. Heads up. 2.4 GHz is not infallible.

[@358studios]

Hi Carl, thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. Great point! 2.4 GHz is actually pretty crowded. I personally had 15-20 devices on it and never ran into trouble in the studio, but I have had trouble inside of stadiums. Not sure why, but something to consider when shooting on location. Have a great day! Cheers.

[@SusanneGeert]

Great review - thanks for creating this very helpful video 🙌 Maybe a stupid question - hope you can forgive me 😉: At 11:25 when you talk about how high speed sync freezes motion at 1/1000 shutter speed - can you explain why such a high shutter speed is necessary at all? I had the naive idea that flash freezes action so that you don't need those high shutter speeds (as you would have needed without flash)? Thanks din advance 🫶

[@358studios]

Hi @SusanneGeert, I'm glad it helped. Thank you for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it. Are you ready for my answer? :) It might be a little bit longer, but hopefully covers your question in full. Please read on for more. You are correct, in a perfectly dark room, with no ambient light, the flash would freeze motion and the only thing you would have to contend with is the flash duration of your strobe. Believe it or not, some of these strobes have such long flash durations at full power that you only get the equivalent of 1/200 speed from the strobe at full power. FD is a subject for a whole video. Maybe someday. :) The reason for using HSS and a fast shutter speed has to do with the amount of available ambient light and its influence on your image. E.g., let's say that you are outdoors and you're using strobes to highlight your subject. The first challenge is the camera's sync speed limiting you to 1/200 shutter speed. Shoot faster than 1/200 with strobes and you run the risk of a black bar in your image (more on that in a bit). For most outdoor situations, 1/200 shutter allows too much light to pass the shutter and so over-exposes the sensor. Your choices are to stop down your aperture or use an ND filter. Stopping down may not produce the depth of field you want and while using an ND filter will kill some of the ambient light, neither option helps with the slow shutter speed of 1/200 (for crisp action shots = min 1/500 or faster). I'm not sure how much you know about shutters, so forgive me if this is something you already know. At faster shutter speeds, your shutter is never fully open. It travels across/down the sensor like a squeegee down a window. The blade of the squeegee is the only opening in the shutter. Light passes through that opening as the opening travels down the sensor. The faster the shutter speed, the smaller the squeegee blade, and the faster it travels down the sensor. This is why, for most cameras, there's a 1/200th sync speed. At 1/200 the shutter is fully open (the whole window, not a squeegee's worth), and being fully open, allows the whole sensor to be fully exposed with one pop. As soon as you dial in a shutter speed faster than 1/200, the camera starts going back to the squeegee analogy of a smaller and smaller opening, traveling faster and faster across/down the sensor. Let's say you get stopping down and the ND filter to work, you still have to contend with the 1/200 shutter. Very slow. The results usually have some ambient light blur (subject moving through the image between shutter open and shutter close) and a light streak either before or after your subject. The light streak is a result of your subject moving through the image before the full flash has ended (flash duration for another day). I call this dragging. Enter HSS. HSS allows the camera to shoot at higher shutter speeds (really small squeegee opening) because the strobe pops multiple times as the shutter travels across/down your sensor. You won't see a difference, but it is actually firing several small bursts all at once. Go back to my squeegee analogy, what these multiple bursts do is evenly expose the sensor with strobe light as the shutter travels across/down the length of the sensor. To achieve these multiple bursts in super fast succession, the strobe sacrifices power, and heat management (another video). But, this feature allows photographers to push their shutter speeds as high as they like and shoot outdoors without worrying about blurry images or dragging. I know it was long, but I hope that helps. If you have other questions, please let me know. Always happy to help. By chance, did you subscribe to my channel? :) Have a great day!

[@SusanneGeert]

@@358studios Oh my goodness... what an absolutely thoughtful and thorough reply 🙌 I really appreciate this you taking the time to leave this for me - WOW 🫶 It does make sense - but is stille a bit complicated to fully understand. Maybe a great topic for a future video? 😉 Thanks again - first for creating such a helpful video and then for leaving such a long reply for my comment. I REALLY appreciate this 🙏 Best from Susanne

[@speb]

AD400 pro not enough?

[@358studios]

Hey Spencer, I think you’re asking me if the AD400 pro is enough. It sure can be depending on your lighting situation, but my thought is if you’re going to the larger form factor in a mono light why not get the 600 pro for the times when you need a little extra pop. That’s why I have not invested in the 300 or 400. I feel like the 200 is a small form factor with a decent amount of output and if I’m going larger the 600. FYI I have pushed the 600 to full power on several shoots but most the time I’m shooting at quarter or half power. I hope that helps.

[@fadlydsp]

what if you just have 1 battrey on your AD600Pro, and your project was taking so long to shoot, thats why you need that AC/DC for save your time to re-charge your 1 battrey lol, re-charging full battrey it might be over than 3 Hour, i think you still need that AC/DC, the fact is this AC/DC more cheap than buying more battrey. :)

[@358studios]

right!

[@358studios]

Sorry about the other comment it was a little short :-). Also sorry about the delay in getting back to you this comment got lost. When I first started using this system I would have totally agreed with you, but after using batteries for over 50 shoots I'm going to say that I would not purchase the AC unit again. I would invest in the batteries. The only time I think I would use the AC unit is if I am shooting product shots or full power shots in the studio for more than half a day. I've used the batteries in the studio for portrait shots and it is a dream because you no longer have to worry about power outlets and your lights move freely anywhere you want them. So I would invest in the batteries versus the AC unit. I think it makes you much more efficient and gives you more flexibility for the money spent. The only negative to the batteries that I have found is that you have one more item to track as far as the charge of the batteries while shooting. If you're looking down at your camera every couple of shots or have an assistant that can watch, you'll catch the battery being drained before you ruin multiple shots. Please let me know your thoughts and hey by chance did you subscribe to my channel?

[@DAVE_WHITE]

I have one ad600 and 2 ad200's I toss them in the dirt for shooting motocross and everything,..

[@358studios]

Awesome to hear! I can't wait to get a bike again and start riding. Cheers!

[@richschmitt100]

You look like a fireman.

[@358studios]

Haha! I've been told that before and I take it as a compliment. I hear firemen are cool! :) Thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it.

[@vasile.stancu.]

Why would you need 6 batteries? That says it all. Definitely, Godox needs to fix the problem on batteries ASAP. They are not reliable at all, no matter how much you'll take care of them. Profoto is indeed expensive, but if you compute 6 x 180 dollars/battery plus the price of the unit itself comparing to B1, you're still there with a lot less stress and a lighter photo bag. Just saying.

[@358studios]

Hi there. I think I understand where you're going with this comment. The purpose of my owning 6 batteries is I have 4 units. Typically, I can get through a shoot on one set of batteries, but if I need a backup or need two sets of lights going at the same time, I have the battery power to pull it off. So for me, it's not that I need 6 batteries to make 2 lights work, it's that my work demands 6 batteries whether they're Godox or Profoto. Granted, if I look at B&H website and look at the reviews other people seem to be having issues. I'm going to guess this is due to, what I call, the remorseful reviewer. You may only be hearing from the people that are upset and taking the time to voice their negative options. So far I'm good. :) I haven't had a chance to use Profoto so I can't tell you if their batteries last longer, etc... I don't believe anyone is making their own batteries and all mfg of strobes are using third party batteries. That then begs the question of testing and QC before accepting a shipment of batteries for use with their strobe units. It would be interesting to dive deeper into that and figure out if there is really a difference in quality and battery mfg. That said, I personally have never had trouble with the batteries I have. Of course, as a photographer I wish my batteries would run everything for days. My experience with electric vehicles (skateboard, EUC, Ebike, etc) and photo gear (Canon, Buff, Apple, etc) tells me that the lithium battery market is all over the place. I'd love to hear about your experience with Profoto. How many full pops, heat issues, recycle, etc... Cheers.

[@CinematographyLischkaChannel2]

nutzt es nicht fur video lmao

[@358studios]

Correct. You can use the modeling LED for video, but there are much better options and I would only consider the AD600 Pro modeling LED for video in a pinch. Like maybe you need just a hint of fill light. That's all you'll get, just a hint.

[@CinematographyLischkaChannel2]

looks like he was payed for the video

[@358studios]

Haha... if only. I'm not sponsored by anyone... yet. Hopefully, some day.