Diagnosing a Bad GE Board - Part 2: Visual Inspectios

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Everybody, Welcome! If you have technical questions please check out www.Patreon.com/GraceAppliance By becoming a channel supporter, you'll get priority response to technical questions, technical data sheet requests, and help support the channel so I can produce more repair videos. Thanks so much! Andy

[@adityasuryafilms6880]

Sure sir.. Sir.. Plz make videos on inverter frost free refrigerator.

[@perrybuntin5617]

Thanks for the tip. My GE refrigerator works fine except when there is a power failure. Restart of the refrigerator is delayed anywhere from 12 hours to over 24 hours. I know that there is a delay to protect the compressor but not that long. I visually inspected the main board per this video. There is a 38 micro Farad 250 volt capacitor with lots of silicon goo at the base. I will replace it when I get a replacement. Is this the likely culprit? I am reluctant to unplug the refrigerator to inspect the the backside of the board. Couple of questions. Is a 44 micro Farad 250 volt capacitor an acceptable replacement? What is the normal delay? I can't find any reference to it in the manual or online.

[@yongtan8578]

the service manual said that do not use resist check for those DC motor, why you suggest that? thanks!

[@GraceAppliance]

@@yongtan8578 if your meter were to show OL you'd know it was a failed motor. I've heard reports that the motors will show anywhere from 800-1.5k ohms and this should be a good read out.

[@yongtan8578]

@@GraceAppliance thanks for your reply. you are the best among all the videos i have seen.

[@russwentz3957]

Thank you brother for the very clear and kind videos. My wife and I have very thin finances and you have been a blessing!

[@plamenator]

Fridge was running warm, and collecting Ice in the feezer. Derfoster and connection check out. Sensors check out. Manully shorting does defrost. Flipped the board - saw the burned connections on the big L-shaped defroster relay. Thank you very much.

[@GraceAppliance]

Great work!

[@GregSr]

Excellent video! My Hotpoint refrigerator suddenly stopped freezing and cooling. The compressor would not come on but the fans were running. Per this video, I pulled the control board out, examined the back side and...BINGO!...the exact point that you predicted would be burnt...is. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@GraceAppliance]

Greg Sullivan awesome work Greg! I’m glad you got it figured out and that I could be of some help. Stay in touch. Andy

[@GregSr]

As a follow up - got the new control board and installed it. Fridge is up and running again! The freezer is running around 0 degrees (+/- 5 degrees). Fridge is running around 37 degrees. They started at 70 degrees and it took about 12 hours to stabilize. Ice-maker is cranking out ice. Both thermostats are set to 5 (mid-point). Couldn't be better! Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction. Before watching your video, that fridge was oh so close to ending up in a landfill.

[@GraceAppliance]

Greg Sullivan awesome work Greg! Glad to help and that it worked out well.

[@user-ms7um1ge5j]

Yes! Confirmed by suspicion of a bad relay. I removed the board and there was the burn tsolder joint. Now to find the part and repair board. Thank you very much.

[@angelaborgstedt3779]

0 0 did you put the bad control board back on the refrigerator so it would run until you found or fixed the Brocken one? Just trying to figure out if I remove the control board to check the back side can I put it back and still use it until I replace it?

[@user-ms7um1ge5j]

@@angelaborgstedt3779 I ordered a new relay but it only had 4 terminals, not 5. So, after cutting short the original leads on the old relay, I had to reuse the old relay. It was a struggle but got it. What Should have done was carve off the thin black plastic relay housing a get a direct look at the contact points before deciding to remove it. An after thought for me, but the points were perfect. So the problem was just that the solder got hot an blew out on the one terminal. So, in my case just to resolder the joint would have been ok. Fridge running after a month. I did get a defrost element/ defrost sensor kit and the new sensor was bad, again reuse the original.

[@user-ms7um1ge5j]

PS, the relay was glued to the board and when removed it pulled off a board trace. Had to repair with a small wire. Tip …..I had no small soldering iron with a tiny point, so I wrapped a thinner piece of copper wire around my iron and used the end to solder with, adjust to size. Contrary to usual practice, transfer solder from the wire to small spots to control amount applied. Too much can be disaster.

[@orlandob9958]

Now this is how you do an instructional video. This guy should be hired for every instruction video on KZbin- for anything!

[@GraceAppliance]

Thanks so much Orlando B! Very kind.

[@purplemonkeydishwasher9360]

OMG you are amazing for posting this video. The first thing you mentioned that the capacitor tops are blown open is exactly what happened to the board on my fridge. Hopefully by replacing those I will have a working fridge again. THANK YOU!!

[@GraceAppliance]

purplemonkey dishwasher awesome work on the diagnostics! Thanks for the kind words. If you’ll use the link in the description to order your part, that helps the channel a ton. Thanks!

[@purplemonkeydishwasher9360]

@@GraceAppliance I will try to solder some new caps first. If I need a whole new board after that I will surely buy it from you!

[@GraceAppliance]

purplemonkey dishwasher thanks! If you need any help along the way, just let me know. Andy

[@bark55]

Thankyou for the videos. My fridge keeps freezing liquids. The thermostat is on the warmest setting for the fridge and freezer. The control board is good, the heating element is good, the heater thermostat is good and I cleaned out the fridge and defrosted the coil, so the airflow is good. The condenser is clean, the compressor is working, the condenser and evaporator fan is running

[@krakrtreacysr907]

Your air damper in the refrigerator side is staying open... Usually up in the left side

[@stanleylucky]

You make a great teacher! Thank you sir.

[@rickey3075]

Your videos has been VERY helpful I was able to do all the test found out my control board was bad I'm waiting on my new one should fix my issue thank you couldn't have fixed it without your help !!!

[@charlenedrakes6970]

I want to thank you so much for your video. My GE refrigerator that I had for 10 years started a intermittent clicking sound. I just ignored it. Until one day, the fridge stopped cooling (3 months later). I opened up the back and looked at the control board and noticed 2 burnt resistors. I ordered and got a new board from EBAY express 2 day shipment for $180, got the board and replaced it. But, it was still making the clicking noise. I was afraid I would damage the new board because the fridge did not cool and still hear noise. I checked the fans evaporator & condenser, temperature thermostat, and everything was running. The compressor was not running. I checked the relay start & overload device on compressor, there was no broken pieces or any kind of sound of damage from the relay & overload. I still ordered a new relay & overload. I was nervous because I was afraid the compressor was no good and it would be very costly, being that I would not be able to DIY. Well after I got the new relay & overload...replaced it, and WHAAA LAAH.. IT WORKED. It was the most beautiful sound to hear when your compressor begins to HUMMMMM again. Going back to your video, which has genuinely helped me start the process of repair by myself. Your video was concise, thorough, and I was able to change the burned board with ease. I commend you!! Even though It was more than just the main control board, it was also the relay & overload device. All cost me $240. You saved me a repairman who was going to charge me double or triple the cost. I did soo much research that I feel I can just about repair anything on this fridge now. It all started with YOUR video. Thank You

[@GraceAppliance]

Awesome work Charlene! Just FYI, the burned resistors (larger green ones that are side by side) are caused by a failing evelorator fan motor. They short out internally and even though they spin, they are defective and will soon damage your new board. If you do not replace the evaporator fan motor along with the new board the fan motor will cause the nre board to fail as well. So, I think the new board was in order even if your compressor relays were your immediate issue. I'd recommend also replacing the evaporator fan as well. I hope the info is helpful and please let me know if you have any questions! Andy

[@charlenedrakes6970]

Thank You So much for your quick response and helpful advice. I will definitely order and replace the evaporator fan motor. Subscribing to your channel!!

[@Ally-oi6lm]

Thanks Charlotte for sharing your GE refrigerator issues. The fridge I’m working on also have the clicking noise. Can you tell me if the clicking noise was coming from the control board? The relay on the fridge was replaced but the clicking noise won’t go away and when the evaporator fan is plugged in the compressor doesn’t kick in. Grace Appliance, can you help me to figure out what needs to be replaced? Do I need to replace both evaporator fan and the control board? I have not taken the control board out to inspect for burnt marks. The ohm reading fluctuates when testing the control board. Can’t remember which part was tested. Have to go back to retest.

[@arymonem]

Excellent! Thanks for posting! I had the burned solder joint, and as soon as I cleaned it, and soldered it back, the compressor started working!!! I think it’s fixed 😊

[@jonp6347]

How long did your solder last. Just found mine has the same thinking to solder it.

[@arymonem]

@@jonp6347 ever since I soldered it a year ago, it’s been working like a champ. No issues. Saved me a couple of grand for a new fridge. Definitely take your time, and do it right.

[@jonp6347]

@arymonem Awesome, thanks for replying back gonna do it tomorrow.

[@shawn951951]

Helped me pinpoint a burnt out board. Thank you!

[@finbarrmurphy]

Thanks, helped me diagnose an issue with the capacitors. New MB on the way, hopefully will fix underlying issue.

[@chrissenters4704]

Thank you so much for this video! My large capacitors apparently went out, and this is likely the problem with my fridge given the symptoms and your pics of blown capacitors. Saved me a bunch of time and money! You rock!

[@GraceAppliance]

Awesome work Chris! Glad I could be of some help. Please consider making your purchase through one of the Amazon links in the description and this really helps the channel. Thanks! Andy

[@chrissenters4704]

@@GraceAppliance Absolutely, do you have a link for the capacitors? I used to mess with Arduinos and Raspberry Pi so I have some soldering skills I might try that first and see how it goes.

[@chrissenters4704]

@@GraceAppliance It's the two larger, bottom ones.

[@GraceAppliance]

Chris Senters hey, I don’t. I get my components though mouser.com, but buying them in bulk the price came way down to be sure. I don’t do a lot of board work these days though. I think you’ll be fine with rebuilding yours. I’d also recommend doing the medium sized caps as well along with the relays. The main issue you’ll run in to with doing these GE boards is the stupid conformal coating they put on the board. It’s that gel/epoxy material covering the components. You’ll find that you have to be rougher with the board than you’d like to remove the old components. Be cautious of the amount of time you leave the iron in the board as to not damage the solder pad and thus destroying the chance of resoldering anything there. I attempted to make a video on this rebuild process once, but got frustrated with how rough I had to be on the board and figured others would be cussing me for even recommending rebuilding it. I’ve had about 70% success with my attempts I’d say. Let me know if you run in to any questions! Thanks!

[@GraceAppliance]

Chris Senters oh, also another tip is that you can increase the voltage rating on your caps so long as the uF remains the same. Just watch tonbe sure that you have enough physical space on the board for the cap and you’re good. Also, you can always offset the cap off the board and bend the leads to accommodate the cap if the size is wrong.

[@robertbroxton8513]

Best made instructional video I have seen. Thank you

[@GraceAppliance]

Thank you Robert!

[@UteraWoman]

Same here!!! I removed the board & it was burnt on the back as shown in this video! New board is on its way!

[@OurBeautifulFantasia]

Excellent video. Highly recommend your video series for trouble shooting GE side/side issues. I managed to resolve my no power to compressor issue by piecing together a number of trouble shooting tactics from all your videos but I would like to request a single video on trouble shooting a non running compressor. Problem: No power to compressor, Checked incoming voltage at J11 Line and confirmed incoming power. Checked voltage at J8 COMP and DEFR (no voltage). Compressor relay and overload switch appeared to be in working order and the 3 pins on the compressor had good continuity. Checked rear of board and the large relay burned solder joint was visible.Replaced board and resolved power supply problem to compressor. Next concern, why would this relay fail? Thank you again and respect from Canada

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Brenna, Thanks for the kind words. I'm so glad the videos helped! I think that's a great idea for a video and I will definitely be making this (or include this content within another) video! As to why the relay fails...the short answer is companies will do everything they can to try to save a penny on the assembly line and this equates to the cheapest possible components being used. I think this is part of it. Another part of it is that an aging compressor must work harder to keep a refrigerator cool, which is longer run times on an aged compressor....aged control board parts, aged relays, etc etc. The older compressors, not running as efficiently as they did new, will pull more power (i.e. amps) when running which stresses the old relay on the board and many times it's the straw that breaks the camels back. All that being said, there may be nothing at all out of the ordinary with the compressor and it could very well be that it's just a worn out relay, bad solder joint, bad design, etc. - and that's it. However, as a technician, a common follow up test I always perform is what's called an amp draw test. This requires an amp meter which most home owners won't have. But, the compressor will typically pull somewhere around 1 - 1.5 amps. If the compressor is getting worn out it will pull much higher amperage (say, 5 amps) and thus stresses the relays and control board beyond what it's designed for. This test is a great indicator of the compressors health and would definitely raise red flags if not within spec. With out access to an amp meter, you'll likely be just fine changing the board and hopefully runs for another decade to come. Sorry, I know you asked for the time and I told you how to build the clock, but there you have it. I hope this helps and great work on repairing your refrigerator!

[@n1c0LaSS]

Definitely had a bad solder joint. Thankfully found one local. I'm guessing this is a common failure?

[@raulgarcia528]

Exelent my friend very professional. Thanks for sharing

[@babur729]

Thank you so much for such a nice tutorial.

[@ksiegel40]

I watched your video on inspecting the GE fridge main board for the big black backwards L-shaped relay which says 12V-DC. The only thing I notice is a black puss or blob on the bottom of the thicker section at the end on top of the relay. none of the other relays have this. The back of the board shows no burnt solder joints. I get 5.4V when testing from the main board to the display control board and same voltage at the display control board that gets power from the main board. So, am I right in saying that this 12V-DC relay is the issue and need new Main board? Probably not the Display control board, right? And nothing on the fridge is running but the lights do come on and get 120V AC power coming into the board like you showed to check that. thanks for all your great videos!!!!

[@amyknecht7297]

We can fix our refrigerator thx to you

[@TONYANDBRENDA1969]

My whirlpool keeps cutting off and on? Changed the front ice maker control board nothing so I ordered a new control board for the back. Hopefully it will fix the problem

[@GraceAppliance]

Best of luck! Andy

[@AlexSanchez-ci1rd]

Thank you for your videos very helpful God bless you.

[@GraceAppliance]

Thank you Alex. God bless.

[@benkanobe7500]

Another outstanding video. Where do we source the caps and resistors? My world changed when Radio Shack stop carrying components.

[@Ally-oi6lm]

Amazon

[@deeleaoking8966]

The best video ever!! Thank you

[@asheljunie2069]

Very interesting I have learned a lot from you sir

[@aerlial360]

Fantastic video! Thank you. I'm dealing with the same board only on a french door bottom-freezer. After cutting the breaker to the fridge accidentally (I was trying to cut the breaker to a ceiling fan), when I put the breaker back on, the fridge was completely dead except for the ice maker! There's 120V to the light blue connector which appears to be the three wires going to/from the compressor. Black, brown, and blue. The weird thing is that, as I mentioned, the ice maker turns on but the rest of the fridge is dead, lights, fans, compressor and all! Could the inverter be the culprit rather than the control board? Do you do a video on testing/checking the inverter board? Thanks!

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey, I'm sorry I don't have a video on the inverter testing just yet. But, you should have a connector on your board with 2 small wires which lead to the inverter. The main controls job is only to send what's called a control voltage to the inverter telling it to turn on and supply voltage to the compressor. If you're getting between 3.5 to 5vdc to the inverter board, the main control is doing its job. If so, and still not getting voltage to the compressor it would then be a failed inverter board. However, I'd start by unplugging the front control board from the fridge and see if the fridge comes on. If so, it's a failed front touch panel. If no change, I'd then unplug the fan plug from the main board and see if the fridge comes to life. If so, it's a shorted fan motor. That's some common things to check for. Also, if you haven't already, leave the fridge unplugged for at least 5 minutes and then restore power.

[@aerlial360]

@@GraceAppliance Thanks so much for such a speedy reply! I don't see a front control board on any of the schematics, only the one in the rear. It looks the same as the one in your video but it's in there horizontally with 8 or 9 1/4 in. nuts for the cover. Am I testing the power to the inverter from the main control board or at the inverter harness?

[@GraceAppliance]

aerlial360 you can measure it from either location, but don’t know which plug specifically at the main control. You should be able to find the small plug with 2 small wires leading from it. You are correct, this is the main control board behind your refrigerator.

[@GraceAppliance]

If you want to send me a picture of your schematics, I’m happy to take a look for you at [e-mail]

[@aerlial360]

@@GraceAppliance I imagine the culprit is more likely the main control board if the inverter's only function is to start the compressor. Is it odd that the only thing that turns on is the ice maker? I'll also unplug the fan connectors once-by-one like you said. I did unplug the fridge for 15 minutes to see if it would reset. Seems odd to me a circuit breaker turned off and on would ruin a main control board but I've seen odd many times as have you I'm sure. Thanks so much again!.

[@giantdude86]

Andy thank you for the videos they are very helpful.I have a GE side by side refrigerator that intermittently would stop cooling freezer and fresh food sections I replaced control board and it worked perfectly for three weeks but now for two days makes a high pitch humming sound,driving me nuts.Does this mean I need to change the evaporator motor also? Why are these motors variable speed operation at what time are they supposed to speed up? Is there a phone number TO CALL YOU I WOULD BE WILLING TO PAY FOR YOUR TECHNICAL HELP

[@GraceAppliance]

giantdude86 hi! Thanks for support and the kind words. At this time, I don’t offer phone support just due to time constraints but am certainly willing to see if I can be of help here with whatever questions you might have. I believe they’re variable speed for energy savings, vs running a 120v fan full time. Also, it’s much quieter once the freezer is down to temp and may just need a low speed fan to maintain temp. The noise you are hearing is like you said likely going to be the evaporator fan motor or the condenser fan motor. This video walks through how you could pin point which fan from the control board by running them independently to recreate the noise. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqjWoIKmiserrM0 If you didn’t feel comfortable with that, alternatively you could simply unplug each fan at a time until you’ve pinpointed the location. Let me know if you have any questions.

[@restonvernon4785]

Thank you and very informative.

[@pradeepbansod3334]

Hi Andy, thanks for the terrific videos and great advice! On my board I am not getting a steady 13V, rather it fluctuates between about 8 and 11V and at time jumps to around 18V DC, so it appears that the Switched Mode Power Supply that runs along one side of the board has lost its regulation. I suspect either the Optoisolator (U10), the Zener diode (reference voltage) or maybe the caps on the output side. However (1) I don't see anything that looks like a Zener, is there one, where is it, what is it labelled? (2) it seems the board is coated with a protective coating so it is impossible to get a contact on any component leads to do a test, any suggestions on how to overcome that? and (3) if I want to remove any component (desolder), is the coating going to make that very difficult, any suggestions? Thanks

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Pradeep, One thing I’d try is unplugging got fan circuit from the control board and measure the DC voltage directly from the pins on the board. I’ve seen where a failed fan motor can cause this kind of issue. Like you said, capacitors may also cause this issue and I do know the capacitors do often fail on these boards. Also, for the fan circuit, you’ve got 2 large resistors side by side which tend to fail as well. As for the other components, I have not dove in to much beyond these 2 resistors, capacitors and relays. So, I’m afraid I’m not much of a help as far as he to go about testing these. But as you mention, you’d need to remove them one at a time in order to bench test them. This made all the more aggravating by the clear conformal coating they out on the board. I have had luck with replacing some of the larger components as I’m able to desolder, melt as much of the coating with my iron as I can, and using small pliers have been able to gently (break?) separate it from the board. I’ve found it helpful to apply heat from the iron to the solder joint while applying pressure on the part with my hand and this helps pull the pin away from the board. Some parts are going to be surface mounted components and I wouldn’t say an impossible talk to accomplish, but more detailed and meticulous than I’m willing to mess with. I don’t know if any board specific schematics if they exist which would certainly be helpful for someone of your knowledge. Sorry I couldn’t be more help.

[@pradeepbansod3334]

@@GraceAppliance Thanks, Andy. Yes, it's challenging without a schematic! I have remove the board from the fridge so all the testing is without an external items connected. I'm going to see if I can scrape the coating off, even that doesn't seem easy. Will report back if I get anywhere. Thanks.

[@arayf.3036]

@@pradeepbansod3334 any update or fix for your fridge? Mine was having the same problem. I sometimes to get the 13V back again after simply check the board to redraw its SMPS. Once it has 13v, it would run fine; however, it did give me problem when power interruption occurs. my Fridge may stop working out known. I suspected the opto coupler and switching driver IC. Capacitors are the usual suspects but mine looked great and measured okay on board. I bough the switch driver IC but had a hard time to buy the opto coupler. last failure, I found I can restart it again with heating the switching circuit area. I will need to try again next time when it fails again. Once it is working, I can't get it to fail again or having the 0~8v fluctuation at DC output.

[@pradeepbansod3334]

@@arayf.3036 Not much to report. I too have found that intermittently it works, and re-heating the joints seems to have a helpful effect, but not enough to make it reliable. Can you tell me the part number for the swtching IC? And have you been able to locate which part is the zener?

[@2lotsill]

I’m looking at replacing the evaporator fan motor for the second time. Verified by checking the ohms on circuit and there isn’t anything. The relays are slightly brown, but not bulging. Can a bad board cause the fan to burn up? Anyone have a link to the relays?

[@_harbinjer]

would you suggest a surge protector to plug the refrigerator into instead of plugging directly into the wall socket? We had a power outage and when the power was restored the fridge won't run anymore I suspect it is the main board and is the 2nd time I will replace it in several years, do you think a surge protector may help?

[@GraceAppliance]

_ Harbinjer I personally don’t recommend it through just a normal home surge protector because a fridge compressor cycling on can trip the fuse as it pulls very high amperage for a few seconds when turning on initially. Now, I do know they make specific fridge surge protectors which may or may not actually help in the event of a lightning strike for instance. I’ve heard the spike in power is quicker than the surge protector can react to to actually be of any use. This is all just what I’ve heard in my travels. It could be off the mark for sure. You may also look in to a whole house surge protector which would be installed at the breaker box mains before it even gets to the house. I’m sure it’s quite expensive, but might be worth it if you used it once. :) I’ve seen some insurance horror stories when it comes to lightening strikes/power surges.

[@angelaborgstedt3779]

My water and ice dispenser is not working, the light flashes on the front panel with the temperature. The ice maker works and I have checked the water line it's not frozen. When I unplug the fridge and plug it back in it clicks for a while before it starts back up? Do you think it's the control panel? After watching your video I'm sure I can replace it myself. I did look at the control panel but did not take it out to look at the back side for burn marks. The front looked fine?

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey, behind the kick penal by the freezer door hinge near the floor, you'll see an electrical connection there. With your fridge unplugged try unplugging and reconnecting this 10x. Then, plug in your fridge again. See if this improves things at all. The clicking is a symptom of a failing control board for sure, but try this first. Thanks!

[@ricks3409]

Good job! a great instructional video. But i have a harder question, that no one has been able to answer yet. Working on a GE Side by side, PSPS9PGZBCSS with an inverter compressor . My control (mother) board is putting out 11 volts, not the recommended 4 to 6 volts to the inverter. Everything else checks out ok, compressor and 120acv. What does this mean? I am very hesitant to put in a new inverter board thinking the 11 volts may destroy it.. or is 11 volts ok and due to the fridge/freezer being so warm?

[@--49]

Great Video. Very well done. Thank you!

[@perrybuntin5617]

Thanks for the tip. My GE refrigerator works fine except when there is a power failure. Restart of the refrigerator is delayed anywhere from 12 hours to over 24 hours. I know that there is a delay to protect the compressor but not that long. I visually inspected the main board per this video. There is a 38 micro Farad 250 volt capacitor with lots of silicon goo at the base. I will replace it when I get a replacement. Is this the likely culprit? I am reluctant to unplug the refrigerator to inspect the the backside of the board. Couple of questions. Is a 44 micro Farad 250 volt capacitor an acceptable replacement? What is the normal delay? I can't find any reference to it in the manual or online.

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Perry, You're most welcome. Sorry to hear about your issues. The capacitor you mentioned isn't faulty. If I'm thinking correct, what you're seeing is a thermal putty they use. It's normal and no issue there. When the capacitors have failed most times they will noticeably swell, sometimes will leak their internals on to the board, but it doesn't look like silicone, but usually a powdery or dark substance which stinks to high heaven. More likely on your case is a failing relay on the control board. One test you can do is the next time you can catch it acting up, gently tap on each of the relays on the main control board with a screw driver. If the fridge magically comes to life, you've narrowed it down to that relay. What happens is the relay gets weak over time and doesn't have enough magnetism to close the contact when power is applied to it. After cooling down for sometime, it finally has the umph to kick on. If you've got the know how, I'd definitely recommend replacing all of the relays on the board and the 4 smaller capacitors I mentioned in the video and the board is likely to last another 20 years. Unfortunately though, there's not a way to test the relays without first removing them from the board. That particular symptom you're having though is very indicitive of a failing control board. I hope that helps.

[@perrybuntin5617]

Thanks. I'll try that. Can the relays and capacitors be purchased separately from GE?

[@GraceAppliance]

@@perrybuntin5617 no, but if you look on the relay itself you will find a part number. I order mine through Mouser.com usually.

[@perrybuntin5617]

I unplugged the refrigerator and plugged back in after waiting 30 minutes. Compressor did not restart for 12 hours and 10 minutes. Several times during that delayed start, I tried tapping the relays but that did not help. I check the temperature of the relays with an IR gun. They were running 2-3 deg below room temperature (70 F). So overheating is not an issue. Current draw is only 2-3 watts. FYI: Light on front panel was also off so power to it is lost. Lights inside refrig and freezer compartments turn on when doors are open. One thing I have noticed is that I can unplugged the refrigerator and plug it back in with a 10 second (and retested with a 15 second delay) and the front panel light stays on. Compressor restarts about 20 minutes later. The compressor was running both times when I unplugged. I will inspect back side of board and replace capacitors next.

[@GraceAppliance]

@@perrybuntin5617 sounds good Perry. I'd highly recommend replacing the relays when to you do the caps. It's the coil portion of the relay that has failed in your case which is a low DC voltage (12vdc I beleive if memory serves) and wouldn't be putting off excessive heat to be noticed with an IR gun. It acts as an electromagnet when energized with 12vdc. This closes the high voltage contacts on the relay. This is where the main heat would be created. When the contacts begin to wear out, it creates high resistance and thus heat. But your relays are not even closing (intermittently) due to a weak coil. This is my estimation based on my experience and on my side of the keyboard of course.

[@orlanddon4772]

Great explanation

[@alexkramper6520]

Do you happen to know what the u15 powers? Mine burnt. Didnt know of it was the ice maker

[@stephenmicucci7479]

Interested in knowing if you can help. Refrigerator maintains a fairly constant temperature of about 38 degrees. Freezer fluctuate between 0 and 32 degrees. I checked the J2 pin for ohms with black probe to white wires and red probe to red wire was reading 13.9 ohms. when checking with the white wires with the yellow both of them measure 10.2 ohms. does this mean that the board is bad. the board is a WR55X30600 Can you direct me as to how to diagnose this board. I have replaced all 3 of the temperature sensors. And a run capacitor WR08X25466 which took care of one problem which was intermittent compressor not running so I am thinking that the problem was 2 fold the model is GNE25JSKKFSS. Thanks in advance

[@richardtoney2441]

great videos, I have a ge refr. nd.# DSE25JSHKCSS freezer 14 deg. ref. 60 deg, freezer rear panel frosted,.so I put it in test mode, no faults, it would not re turn to normal operation, even after unplugging waited over 30 sec and plugged back in would not come back on was running before test mode. ???

[@lawrencebuechel7119]

Andy, have a GE Fridge freezer works, Fresh food drawer works fridge is warm after power failure, MY J2 plug has a white wire, yellow wire, blue and yellow wire ,the 3rd pin and 5th and sixth pins are empty, how do I check voltage on this ? NO 7 0r 8th pins

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Lawrence, I will need to know your model number to answer this question. Is your fan inside your freezer turning? Also, look to see if the 2 large green resistors on the control board behind the fridge are discolored. How do these look?

[@antonydidus4730]

Hey, I have burned 2 resistors on my motherboard, they are in the middle, and motherboard is white color, why it's happened and what I should replace to make it work properly! The issue with fridge it's not answering on adjustments temperature...

[@stackhsc]

I’ve got a ticking noise coming from the yellow warped part beside the capacitors. It’s ticking quickly. I unplugged and plugged a few times and it fired up for a few hours. Then got a code 0000 (I think that’s what it was) and it stopped cooling. Unplugged it and it is ticking again. It’s the part with 30h-2003 dczm….. is this the part that is broken, or is it doing it’s job and a different part is causing it to tick/click. I know it’s this part that the sound is coming from because I put a screw driver against it with my ear at the other end. Any Info on can I repair it with a part or do I need a new board? Thanks.

[@gabrielmerza6904]

Awesome video My fridge control board number GE 200d4854g018 and I can’t find the same one I found same board but deferent number? What is other board compatible with my fridge?

[@frankreyes5735]

Thank you! Question. What if there is no signs of the burn marks of bad capacitor. How can I test the board?

[@frankreyes5735]

Model number PGCS1RKZHSS. I get no lights or compressor nothing works except for the ice maker light is on Thank you

[@GraceAppliance]

@@frankreyes5735 Hi Frank, Are the lights inside the fridge on? The first thing I would try is to unplug the front control board to see if the fridge comes to life at that point. If so, it is a shorted front control board. Second thing i'd try is to unplug the fan plug from the control board in the rear of the fridge and see if there is any change. If so, it would indicate a shorted fan motor either inside the freezer (evap fan) or behind the fridge (condenser fan). If no lights are on inside the fridge, I would suspect faulty wiring or poor connection at the plug behind the refrigerator because the lights inside are on a separate circuit from the control board. Let me know. Thanks! Andy

[@frankreyes5735]

Thank you! For such a quick response! None of the lights are on

[@GraceAppliance]

@@frankreyes5735 the first thing I suspect is to check the plug near where the power cord enters the refrigerator. Be sure to unplug your fridge first and look for any chewed up wiring from critters, and unplug any connectors there several times and reconnect. Ask me how I know that it's best to unplug the fridge first! LoL If all the wiring looks good there, I'd then proceed with the steps mentioned above.

[@frankreyes5735]

Okay! Awesome. I can’t thank you enough. Let me try. And let you know. Since I gave all the time in the world.

[@tedan8116]

Hi and thanks for your tips. Where may I find all the relay’s voltages? On the blue wire on the compressor I do have 46 Volts and seems to be not normal. So how and where can I find the defective relay? Thanks in advance

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi, what is your model number please?

[@tedan8116]

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos pfs22sbsbss

[@tedan8116]

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos I do have 118 Volts on my compressor now, I miss place my trig but my compressor Ohms are 10-6-4 and still not start.

[@GraceAppliance]

@@tedan8116 hi, if you are getting 120v on the compressor side of your relays your relays are likely OK and should be hearing the compressor at least trying to start. Do you have 120v after the relays (where the compressor pins plug in)? If so, is the compressor making any kind of sound?

[@tedan8116]

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos No click or any sound from compressor. I do have now my doubt on the grey plastic terminal where them 12 mf is. My meter doesn’t have mf feature...

[@marketrealist1221]

Awesome video!! Thank you!

[@GraceAppliance]

Market Realist you’re welcome! Glad it was helpful. Thanks, Andy Please consider making a $1 donation to help support my ad-free KZbin channel where I do my best to help people save appliance repair service fees. It’s a huge help and greatly appreciated! www.paypal.com/donate/?token=p_-S29vsNHZsyxBt-llMSH_zJe4utLKcfvVRiZJHP0vIM5ldZMsdxPh9xywqckuI65fdq0&country.x=US&locale.x=US

[@johncbakeriii9294]

For example, if my fridge is giving 1,2,3v instead of 12-14v on j2... what exactly failed? Which part of the board?

[@markjwolfson]

How do I know what control board I need for my GE Profile Side-by-side Model PSC23NGPBBB?

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi, this board is the one you need. Thanks, Andy. www.graceappliancediy.com/products/ge-wr55x10942-refrigerator-main-control-board-1?_pos=1&_sid=d59ee0934&_ss=r

[@amyknecht7297]

Your so helpful

[@Zeus07able]

Hi Andy, First, I wanted to thank you for all your help videos and your great work. Excuse me for my bad english, I live in France. My fridge "General Electric GSE 20 JEW JFBB" does not work anymore. On my control board, I found 4 capacitors (C29, C30, C8, C106) inflated. The switching regulator "U1" has also burst. The problem is that I can't read the component reference anymore. Could you please give me the reference of this integrated circuit. I don't know if it's important, but my fridge runs in 230V 50Hz. The label on the board indicates only "WKKT Model : No 0159-00-73A and GEA Part No : 200D4855GO17". The reference of the transformer "T1" is "30H-2003 DCGM 0820C". I thank you in advance for your precious help.

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi, you’re most welcome. Are you needing the part number for a replacement control board?

[@Zeus07able]

Hi Andy, Thank you for your quick response. Yes, I would like to have the part number of the control board, but it's mostly the reference of the switching regulator "U1" I would like to know. I would like to repair the control board by myself. The fridge is quite old and I don't want to spend much money. Thank you for your help.

[@GraceAppliance]

Zeus07able hey! So, your part number for your board is WR55X26733. This is a different part than what I own so I’m not able to provide a reference on the individual components for you. If you need to order the board, if you use this affiliate link it helps the channel greatly. amzn.to/2VrSWi6

[@Zeus07able]

Hi Andy, Thank you for the time you spend for me. I don't think I order the control board, because I would like to repair the board myself, in the interests of economy. For information, what is the reference of this integrated circuit "U1" on yours own control boards. Thanks again for your help.

[@GraceAppliance]

@@Zeus07able hi, My board wr55x10942p does not have a U1, Sorry to say.

[@myutube977]

Hi Andy I have no power to the compressor but I did have power to the lights when I opened the door I my GE refrigerator I did all the tests in order, i have no power to the front panel so I purchase a new one and had the same problem I check for the DC voltage and unplug it from the board and did not run , could it be other bad board

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Nolberto, I'm sorry to hear about your issues with your refrigerator. You've followed the right steps it appears. If you had no voltage being sent from the main control (I. E. Behind the refrigerator) to the front board it is indeed a failed main control. If you now are getting the DC voltage to the front control panel, yet the front board does not light up, you will need to replace the front board as well. It could be that the front panel being bad damaged the main board. Sounds like you've done well with the diagnosis based on what you've shared. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey, just to clarify you've also watched this video, correct? kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJqpoap-a8SKqK8 If you're getting 13.5vdc at the black and red wires on the back of the touch panel control board and its still not lit up, it's a failed touch panel board. If you have 13.5vdc at the main board, but not at the touch panel board then the most likely issue is going to be the plug near the lower freezer hinge behind the kick panel. There's a white plug there that tends to give issues. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks!

[@salvatoregagliardi48]

Hi Andy .I have a GE GSE25HGHBHBB I have replaced the defrost heater element and switch, the evap fan and thermistor and the recently the control board. The freezer shows 10 on the panel the fridge shows 44 on the panel. If I use a Lazer temp gun it shows 26 in the bottom of the fridge and less then 0 in the bottom of the freezer. Since the new board I have no water from the dispenser. Frozen? What should I do next?

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Karen, If you could please send me the first 5 digits of your serial number as well? Some models require a modification to the wiring harness with a board replacement and give this type of symptom so, I wanted to check that for you. As for the dispenser, you're probably right that the dispenser in the door is frozen. It's very common with the GE side by sides. There is this tool which is handy to take care of it quickly. If you have a GE you should own one of these too. affiliate link: amzn.to/2DMQ9JD Once you solve the temperature issue you may not deal with the frozen line again for quite a while so that's good.

[@salvatoregagliardi48]

@@GraceAppliance I just bought the tool. I will be home tonight and send you the serial number. Thanks for the speedy reply.

[@salvatoregagliardi48]

TD432396

[@salvatoregagliardi48]

The board number I installed WR55X24347

[@GraceAppliance]

@@salvatoregagliardi48 Thanks Karen! Your model is not impacted by the instructions I mentioned. But, your board is different than the part number I had in mind. So, if the board came with any install instructions, you might double check on that paper to see if there are any serial numbers listed that are impacted by that modification. Outside of that, your temperature sensors seem suspect to me. What was the initial symptom the fridge was giving you before replacing the defrost heater and board?

[@yousifmabb5369]

Great one. Thank you for sharing.

[@GraceAppliance]

You're most welcome! Thank you for watching.

[@jacquesherbier4981]

TOP... Thanks

[@luisherebia7620]

Is there any way I can get in touch with you? I'm having an issue with my Hotpoint refrigerator s/s which is essentially the same as GE and I'm trying to get it going. Thank you!

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey, feel free to email me at [e-mail] and I'm happy to see if I can assist, but I'm sorry I don't offer phone support at this time. Thanks!

[@luisherebia7620]

@@GraceAppliance thank you much! Email will be sent

[@snowflakes9736]

How do you check or which Jack you to see if power going to the compressor from the board

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi, keep in mind to unplug the refrigerator before touching any wires. You'll find 2 wires which lead to the relays that are plugged on to the compressor. If you remove the relays from the compressor you can then measure the voltage at the 2 wires leading to the relays. You should show 120vac there once you plug in the fridge. If the relay is good, you should get voltage after the relays as well.

[@snowflakes9736]

So if you put a jumper the compressor will start just to see if the compressor is running

[@GraceAppliance]

@@snowflakes9736 if you jump between the 2 outside wires (make sure it's unplugged before touching) and restore power, this will send power to the 2 wires leading to the relay at the compressor. If the relays and compressor are good the compressor should start.

[@joelgarza4250]

I have a GE side by side Model GSS20DBPAWW how can I get a wiring diagram for this refrigerator, I would appreciate an email back to me thank you very much.Keep up the great work.

[@richardtolar7084]

My GE fridge, side by side, is flashing zeros on the temperature adjustment display on the front of the freezer door. Anywhere you know of on the board I should look to find the source of this problem?

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey Richard, This issue is often a connection issue between the main control board and front touch panel. Most commonly it’s going to be a bad connection at the plug behind your kick panel by your feet. Should see a plug by the freezer hinge. Unplug your fridge, the Unplug and replug this about 10x. Look for broken wires or corrosion. Let me know how it goes.

[@richardtolar7084]

@@GraceAppliance Thank you for your quick response!! My fridge model number is GSS25QSWASS. The part Number on my main control board is 200D2260G008 The part number on my display board is 200D7355G052 These are the boards that have been in it since I got it. The zeros are flashing, the buttons "beep" when I press them but the display just continues to flash zeros. The water filter button is solid red. This is everything I have tried so far... -Bypassed the connection behind the kick panel by splicing the wires together. -checked the voltage at main board and display board to make sure I was getting proper voltage at both spots. (13.5 at both) -unplugged the connections and replugged them back in (multiple times) My only question, what is the blue wire for that runs from the main board to the display board with the red and black? Could it be the culprit? Is there a way to make sure that one doesn't have a bad connection somewhere? Starting to wonder if it's just done. Ha. Any other suggestions?

[@GraceAppliance]

Richard Tolar hey, low on battery here. As far as testing the blue wire connection testing. One way I can think of is to do an Ohm resistance test between the plug at your touch panel blue wire and where it terminates at the main control board. Now, obviously your meter leads won’t be long enough to reach both locations so you can use a longer length of small wire to extend from the touch panel to behind your fridge by the main board so you can test both at the same time. If you have continuity, this would mean you have a good connection. 1% ahhh! Lol

[@ET-yr6st]

what would be the reason there is no voltage at the compressor

[@joepadilla7871]

Andy i have a kenmore i have a ADC board how to check if is bad

[@GraceAppliance]

Joe Padilla hi Joe, this is the procedure I’ve used in the past. I’ll be honest that I have not worked on many of these, but would always visually examine the board for burned solder joints. I’ve seen that a time or two. appliancerepairtips.wordpress.com/2010/06/27/adaptive-defrost-controls-adc-part-1-whirlpool-kenmore-refrigerators/

[@seriyvolk4597]

I thank you for the meat and bones on this video!"-) Thank you!

[@GraceAppliance]

Great way to phrase it! You're most welcome. Please stay in touch.

[@3002lexus]

Where do I order a capacitor and how to find the correct 1

[@rebeccaarrogante487]

How to test GFD28GSLCSS GE refrigerator not cooling except the freezer

[@lindalam66]

GE my refrigerator freze is cold but the refrigerator is warm not working im not sure which part is bad mother board oh defrost Heater not working plz help the model number is PDS22SBRBRSS thanks

[@GraceAppliance]

judy L hi Judy, sorry to hear about your fridge issues. If you’ve got frost build up on the back wall of the inside of the freezer it would be a defrost issue. This video should help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpa9l6N4bNSeb5I Let me know if you have any questions! Andy

[@michaelbabu5660]

I have a GE PS123SCPABS S/N 4252289 The fridge stop cooling I change the Main Board now the fridge cools a lot but the panel to set the temperature is Not working at all 9 nothing lights ) After 3 hours the fridge still running and both compartments very cool I unplugged the cord and when I plugged back won't start . After one hour plugged back now it runs bur the Panel still not lights. any suggestions please !

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Michael, Please send me a picture of your model tag with the model and serial to: [e-mail] There are certain models that require a slight wiring modification with a board replacement and I can double check this for you. Thanks! Andy

[@Holabella]

Hi question do u have to ground ureself to do this? Thank u

[@GraceAppliance]

Hey! Touching ground before handling electronics. You should, I should...I don't, but it's easy so I need to start. All you need to do is, every few minutes, touch a grounded metal object before touching any electronics. This can be anything metal on your refrigerator frame, covers, compressor, brackets, etc etc. This discharges any built up static charge that you may be carrying and prevent that from jumping to the electronics you're about to touch. The only time I really think about this is when I've opened a brand new control board still in the box. I've already at that point disassembled the refrigerator to expose the old control board (and thus grounded myself), remove the new control board from the packaging trying to touch only the plastic portions of the board and taking care not to touch the solder joints on the back of the control. Either way, I've never experienced or heard of any appliance boards getting damaged this way. I think they're fairly robust as far as this is concerned from what I've seen. Folks who work on high dollar electronics or solder all day every day may consider something like this self grounding bracelet: Amazon affiliate link: amzn.to/2JvmiaK

[@Holabella]

@@GraceAppliance got u thx... So when taking out the new motherboard can I just keep my non dominant hand on the metal cover once I remove it from the fridge?

[@GraceAppliance]

@@Holabella hi, after you've touched ground once you can use both your hands. Just touch ground once and you're good. Thanks!

[@heartpounder1985]

Hello I have one just like that but I don’t know what’s the part number for the glass fuse can u please let me know thank you I have repaired the capacitor but fuse no good broke it by accident so I need to change it

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Ferris, I’m sorry I do not know as I have never needed to replace this, but if you’ll look very closely at the metal case/end caps on the broken fuse on your board we may get lucky and have an Amp rating on it. If I recall though, I believe it may be unmarked.

[@heartpounder1985]

GE Side-by-Side ONLY - Refrigerator Repair Videos ok thank you for taking the time to respond I’ll notify u if I get it

[@GraceAppliance]

You’re most welcome. I will be curious to know what you find out. I know some of the boards use what’s called a quick blow fuse...meaning it can withstand the same amp draw as a standard fuse, but is designed to blow in the event of a power surge. A useless feature if the fuse is non replaceable. Also FYI, they make fuse holders that can be snapped on TOP of the existing fuse and will hold a fuse above the blown out one already on your board. You may look in to this.

[@TruckDriver326]

My GE is not doing anything. I open the door I have light. No way to set the control for the freezer or the refrigerator. The digital display don't display. And I'm the worst player doesn't light up anymore what ice makers at on the door. And they Foods aliment I did replace that twice already and it work fine. I did a visual of the circuit board but I didn't pull it out. one of those resistors look burnt on the PC board a little brown. You think it the board.

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Anthony, Sorry to hear about your issues with your refrigerator. The fact that the lights come on tell me that you’re getting good power to the refrigerator. Yes, it is more than likely the main control board, but to be sure you would need to rule out a failed front control / touch panel because they both share the same symptoms when failed. You’d need a multimeter to do these tests and start with the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJqpoap-a8SKqK8 You’ll probably determine that the touch panel board is fine and it’s the main control board at fault. The fact that the resistor is burned indicates an issue with one of your fans which has caused the board to fail. This video will walk you through these tests and you’d need to replace that offending fan motor as well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hpm0fKR8arKaeqc I hope that info is helpful, please let me know if you have any questions! Andy

[@TruckDriver326]

I didn’t get time to test. I left the Fridge plugged up and just came back on all of a sudden so I know there’s a bad motherboard are ready before I get to check it out I want to test it out through your steps

[@TruckDriver326]

Where can I get those resistors in those relays to rebuild this board and those capacitors do you have part numbers for then and where to order them from

[@courtneywilliams3700]

Good

[@benmoussayoucef4699]

My beko fridge is running continuosly i have doubt in control board (signs of fire)

[@mandoace8952]

At 5:30 by the two capacitors, what's that piece called, top capacitor to the right, black piece

[@GraceAppliance]

That is a heat sync which is meant to dissipate heat from the part it’s attached to. In this case, if memory serves is a mosfit. Not prone to fail typically.

[@ethanboodookay6560]

SO MY CONTROL BOARD WORKS ON A PSS26LSRCCSS (1ST UNIT)BUT WILL NOT TURN ON ON ANOTHER PSS26LSRSS (2ND UNIT)

[@GraceAppliance]

Hi Ethan, what is the part number of the board thay that you are using?

[@user-ms7um1ge5j]

And I'll replace he capacitors while I have the board on the bench.

[@GraceAppliance]

Nice work! Keep me posted if you have any questions as you go along. Andy

[@a.r.f.r434]

Any one knows what is U3 IC on board is ? please

[@MNSaludyentretenimiento]

Nice

[@chrisr.9042]

Hello I have a question to my samsung side by side. Please get back to me.

[@edesir]

I have a blown fuse on the board everything else looks good

[@GraceAppliance]

edesir hey! I’ve heard of people installing a device that is basically a piggyback fuse holder that clips on to the existing fuse on the board and allows you to install a new fuse in to the holder. However, I’ve taken a look around and am not able to find a similar product, but do know that such a thing exists. However, I’m not aware of how many amps the current fuse is (or if there is some type of underlying issue with the fridge that caused the fuse to blow). That is one solution for you to look in though. I would start by looking at Mouser.com and see if you could find something that will work. I hope that helps.

[@edesir]

@@GraceAppliance Thanks for the quick response!! The fuse size is stamped on but i would have to remove it to get a better look. It may just blow again for reasons unknown but ill willing ti give it a try. i'll just solder new leads to the new fuse. To give a bit of insight to the fridge, a week ago i had to install a 3 n 1 to get fridge running again but it seemed to be running a little longer and a bit louder. tks again

[@GraceAppliance]

@@edesir yeah, it could be a failing compressor causing this. Relays don't usually just go out with no reason in my experience. I use the Rco810 which is a smaller version of the rco 410 that most put on for a hard start. I've been told the 410s will fry and aging compressor and the 810s are a better choice. I have nothing other than folklore to go by with this theory, but haven't had any issues in my years of travels with this theory. If you have access to a clamp (amp) meter you can test the amp draw of the compressor while running. You should see around 1.5amp draw when the compressor has been running for a bit. If it was substantially higher than this it could certainly blow out relays and a control board. Thanks! Let me know if you have any questions.

[@MizanurRahman-cn7gp]

0:33

[@MizanurRahman-cn7gp]

Tanqy BANGLADESH