Grafting Fruit Trees for Beginners Part 4

[@GraftingTactick]

Very nice sharing, thanks for sharing 👌💕

[@josealvarado9858]

Thanks nick’s

[@buhaycanadachannel8419]

Always informative and useful info👍❤️😍May try this in our apple tree👌

[@johanconradie2120]

you may do everything as slow as you wish BUT GRAFTING YOU MUST DO SUPER QUICK!!!

[@brianpalmer967]

Hello, in the video you mentioned that vertical growth can prevent your grafts from taking. Does grafting onto vertical growth increase success?

[@nickkasko2097]

Yes

[@brianpalmer967]

Thank you! Currently finishing up my spring grafting.

[@calvinkalmon6746]

I have watched your grafting videos part 1, part 2 and part 4 I did not find part 3. Can I use the side graft method when grafting onto rootstock? Or is there a better method when grafting onto rootstock?

[@nickkasko2097]

Part 3 was the grafting compatibility video I’m not sure what you mean by grafting onto rootstock. All grafting is grafting onto rootstock. Please be more specific.

[@calvinkalmon6746]

@nickkasko2097 grafting a complete tree, not just a limb.

[@nickkasko2097]

@@calvinkalmon6746 the techniques I have shown really only depend on grafting trunk diameter compared to scion diameter If diameter matches up 1:1 then you can use whip, whip an toungue, 2:1 then side graft applies very well 4:1 or larger, bark or cleft graft

[@calvinkalmon6746]

@@nickkasko2097 excellent, thank you so much this really clears it up. Do you have a video that goes over these techniques?

[@nickkasko2097]

@@calvinkalmon6746 bark graft is shown in part two. Part four has all the rest of the techniques.

[@dfulton12477]

Leaving a lot of buds on your grafted scions Nick. Is that less of an issue when grafting high in a tree with an established root system?

[@nickkasko2097]

Yes I have noticed when grafting longer scions you get fruiting buds faster and it doesn’t effect the take percentage much or hinder the healing in any way. I used to leave strictly 2 buds but have found more works also and I see fruit faster especially new varieties. Steven Edholm “Skillcult” leaves long scions as well.

[@nickkasko2097]

Yes I should have mentioned tho when bench grafting on grafting onto smaller or non established trees, you only want 2-3 buds. Fruit production is not a priority the following year anyway at that point. I am testing new varieties so I need to see fruit ASAP.

[@dfulton12477]

@@nickkasko2097 Makes a lot of sense, and gives me a good rule of thumb to apply when top-working established trees vs 1 yr rootstock

[@KlausBioMadsen]

Cool video! How big of a difficulty jump would you say there is between grafting apples and grafting something more difficult like abricot or peach?

[@nickkasko2097]

The concept is the same, difference is timing and 25% less takes. Peaches and apricots you have to wait for temps to be at least above 70 in order for callus to occur

[@calvinkalmon6746]

@nickkasko2097 and where would plum grafting fit on this scale since I plan to do quite a few plum grafts this spring?

[@nickkasko2097]

@@calvinkalmon6746 almost as easy as apples, they graft very well

[@calvinkalmon6746]

@@nickkasko2097 excellent!

[@КоллекционерПлодовых]

Вумничка💯✌

[@philipsnow8598]

Can you graft apple to pear and pear to apple? And have you done this? If you have, make a video and show us the progress. Please

[@nickkasko2097]

I have, check my videos

[@albertvdm]

I have a huge problem with none of my grafts taking, from all the videos I watched it seems like I do everything right. The only thing left is sealing the entire graft properly, the dry hot weather is probably putting to much stress on the scions. I am trying again this year. Our spring is starting now.Going to wrap the entire scion and cover with wax and cover with foil.

[@nickkasko2097]

Or paint the entire scion and shade the graft with something. If you have a dry windy climate make a mini greenhouse with a plastic bag over each graft with moist paper towel inside and few small holes for air flow. If everything else is correct your grafts should take. 1. Both rootstock and scion are healthy 2. Graft is done during the proper season 3. Knife is sharp 4. You graft to related species

[@albertvdm]

@@nickkasko2097 I followed your advice and so far my graft is making new leaves and it is not even 2weeks. It looks very healthy so far. Hopefully it is the graft that is taking.

[@albertvdm]

@@nickkasko2097 Just an update, since I started using paper towel and making extra sure everything is properly sealed almost all my grafts are succeeding and if they fail it is because I opened the joined area to early and the graft gets damaged. Now it is getting pretty easy, Tried chip budding on citrus and roses and 3 out of the 3 healed well, the other one is less than a week old but I am confident it will take.

[@paul-wq2rd]

When all the perimeters are right, they should take. Years ago, I grafted some with commercial grafters in an apple orchard and of course they taught me a lot. I got a feel for it at that time. Healthy scion wood... proper timing in the spring... well sealed so it doesn't dry out... cambium layer touching... Another thing I have noticed over the years is don't do it while it is too wet or raining, they don't take well. You know how it is when an apple is cut and it oxidizes or the flesh browns, that also happens when the scion is cut. Sun and wind can cause the cut to oxidize faster than I can graft. So I might wait until early morning before the sun is up. Or on a day when it is cold and over cast yet dry. I used to tap a maple tree near our house in the spring. There was a time when the sap would flow for several weeks. In apple trees, it should be the same way, do the graft at a time when you feel there is that sap flow. The buds are starting to swell and when it is cut, it seems wet and not dry and hard. This year, about a third of the little trees are a little late, they are past the prime for grafting and the wood is dry and they oxidise really fast. I just need to be more careful they won't be as forgiving. I also try to avoid a freeze. I don't know if the graft is affected by a hard spring frost but it could be.

[@johanconradie2120]

start by doing APPROACH GRAFTING something. live on live. 100% success.

[@josealvarado9858]

Great job man . Excellent. A good and a very clear explanation.. i want to ask you . When is the best time to do the grafting, cause i tried here in georgia but the scion dried and did not grew . May be is the season ir something wrong im doing. Thanks fir shared your video.

[@nickkasko2097]

I graft apples, pears , cherries and plums when day time high temp is in the 60’s. Graft peach and apricot when day time high temp is in the 70’s. In both cases you have to wait until last hard frost date has past. For me this is April. Also scion wood needs to be stored so it’s dormant at this time. Tree should have broken dormancy and have leaves on it at the time of grafting. This is the best scenario for best results. You can graft earlier and later and all summer long if you want but take percentage will be lower.

[@MrWhiltetail]

Do you ever do chip budding?

[@nickkasko2097]

Yes but not very often

[@MrWhiltetail]

@@nickkasko2097 Why don't you do it more? It seems like a very efficient way to graft. If you don't use it much I'm guessing there are some down sides to it that you don't like. I'm trying to decide the best way for a beginner like me to successfully graft & chip budding seemed like the way to go but if your not using it I'm not so sure. I planned on buying some rootstock to graft to this spring.

[@nickkasko2097]

@@MrWhiltetail if I was trying to conserve bud wood and/or had thousands of grafts to do on half inch stock, I would be budding. My situation is different, I’m more of a collector/tester of varieties and I’m always grafting only one graft per variety each year and often times to large caliper up to 2 inch. With more buds attached to the same graft, I have a higher chance of success if a slug or bug decides to eat some buds. U always gotta plan to lose some and if it’s a chip bud, you rely on that one bud only. I have had situations where I left several buds and slug got to them but left one or two, saved the graft.

[@MrWhiltetail]

@@nickkasko2097 I guess I will have to give it some more thought on what I want to try. I plan on doing maybe 50 at most. If you had to narrow it down what do think the best graft for beginners is to use & have a high success rate?

[@nickkasko2097]

@@MrWhiltetail whip no tongue on wood and rootstock of similar diameter. The most simple and straight forward. You have done your research and now all that’s left is to dive in and go for it! Best of luck. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes

[@alexv259]

You grafted two identical scions opposite of each other. You do two because in case one of them failed?

[@nickkasko2097]

For two reasons. For back up is one. But also keeps the other side of the tree alive to help the wound seal faster. Keep one smaller to allow one to dominate. Remover the smaller side when they touch.