Oil burner pump failed? maybe its the coupler

[@Meat_City]

Thanks for the knowledge. You are an invaluable resource for those of us running oil burners. I cant even find furnace repairmen in the area who will work on them anymore, so I had to learn how to do it myself.

[@edgrabski1390]

Same here, have to figure out how to do the repair by watching here. Great that he takes the time to explain in great detail about these burners.

[@NewEdgeLarryO]

You nailed it. Just had that coupler replaced on my Beckett after irregular firing. It was about 5 years old.

[@kjhnsn7296]

My coupler had failed after 20yrs on my Burham oil burner. I had part swapped out all parts (ignitors, nozzle, eye, electrodes, filters, pump) EXCEPT the coupler. Never thought of it. I finally called out a professional and got reamed by them to replace what is essentially a $12 part. But I learned from the experience. I now have that old coupler laying right beside the burner as a reminder. In any case, I should be set for quite a while now...😂

[@sirgavanator8794]

This video saved me hundreds of dollars. Thanks kind stranger

[@wattsup918]

GFM: good to see you adding more content. Thank you!

[@mikehound8315]

I usually have two of the coupler “kits” in the service truck. But something to remember is the AF2 burners from Beckett have a proprietary coupler, different from any of the others, they do strip out regularly and are worth keeping one on hand.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Good thoughts. GFM

[@markshaw8692]

That’s what it was. Made a slight rattle with worn out one. I bought a pump in case but will save for later. It was tricky getting back together lining up shafts but do able. Much appreciated! Thank You

[@kevinbirmingham3833]

This just saved me a bunch of money! Thank you!

[@johnkosick1464]

Good job..... Question...... If I have a noisy motor , can it be oiled ? I looked on my motor, but I don't see any oil caps to add oil. Thanks....

[@grayfurnaceman]

The older motors had oilers but if it is 30 years old or less, they do not. GFM

[@johnkosick1464]

OK...........Thank you. I assume the bearings are sealed and you can't oil them. Any data on their "failure rate" ? I hope they are made to last longer. Best wishes... John in PA.@@grayfurnaceman

[@grayfurnaceman]

Most small motors have gone to sealed bearings. Anecdotally, the failure rate I have seen is about the same. If there is any leakage of the seals, the motor will fail, sealed or not. GFM@@johnkosick1464

[@richheimreal]

I have seen drive coupling failures happened most often on forced hot air furnaces because they turn on and off so often. Next was hot water boilers and then steam boilers very rarely have coupling failures because the on/off cycle is much less frequent.

[@Trump985]

Its a good idea to replace these couplers every 5 years in my opinion, you should be taking the motor/blower assembly out to clean the fan when it gets dirty and in my experience that's usually around every 5 years for a typical house. The coupler is fairly cheap and i can't see any reason not to simply replace it every 5 years or so while you already have it apart for blower fan cleaning. In some commercial and industrial applications where the bunners live in absolutely filthy environments you have to clean these blowers every few months, and its been my experience that the dirt just wears out these plastic couplers so I always replace them whenever I pull the motor for cleaning.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Agreed. GFM

[@mattdotson3165]

I pressure tested my becket afg oil burner an the pump an it was 110 psi an as soon as the burner shut down the pressure dropped to zero. Does this mean that my pump is bad . Any help would be super appreciated

[@Bostonn617]

Your videos are amazing. Thank you for making these. I’m having an issue and nobody can see to help me or get to the bottom of it. Really hoping you might have some ideas. I’ve had two different techs out here with no luck. Older ducane oil furnace will fire up no problem. It will run anywhere from 5-15 min without issue. Then all of a sudden it will very quickly click off and right back on. Flame never goes completely out but sounds like it’s clicking off. I’ve changed the motor , oil pump , primary control valve ,all filters , bled the system , replaced the cad call. Only thing that hasn’t been changed is the igniter as it’s still original- I believe that might not cause this issue as my understanding is that it lights once and does not stay on with this type of furnace therefore if it was bad the burner would go completely out ( Please correct if I’m wrong) I have paid two techs now and not getting and further in figuring this out. Last tech told me to just continue running it like this as it won’t hurt anything. I’m hoping some others will check the videos out and throw me some more ideas to look at as I’m without heat and it’s getting cold. The oil furnace is a older Ducane DRC-15a I’ll include a couple other videos here as well… streamable.com/x47du3 streamable.com/117jhs

[@ThePhotographyHobbyist]

I have a Williamson oil burner furnace (not a boiler) with a Beckett burner installed in 1996 and maintained every year (we built this house and still live here). This thing is super clean and it has new electrodes properly adjusted with the Beckett tool, a new electronic igniter/transformer and the flame sensor has been tested and working but I will replace that also since it’s so easy. The issue I have right now after it was serviced and the items I mentioned replaced, a few weeks later it tripped and I noticed that because it was cold this morning. I pressed the button on the controller to reset it and I saw a flame for just one or two seconds and then the flame went out, so I powered it off. Knowing all the items I mentioned were replaced/new, it seemed like a fuel issue to me so I cracked open the bleeder screw at the pump and fired it up and sure enough the fuel was foamy so I bled it until it was just fuel and no longer foamy. After that I started it up and it’s been fine all day. I confirmed all the connections are tight. Not a drop of fuel anywhere (and it's always been like that...really clean). I’m a little suspicious about whether or not they have been changing that oil filter in the canister because it looks suspiciously clean around that area where the filter is installed and maybe a few cobwebs on it also. Maybe they’ve been a little leery about doing it because it’s harder to bleed because the tank is in the basement but the copper line runs up along the ceiling of the basement and then back down to the furnace and at the bottom of the furnace is where they put the canister filter and then of course the copper line connects to the pump on the burner. I’m just looking for some possible explanations for while all of a sudden the the fuel was foamy, could it truly be that oil filter in that canister getting clogged?

[@jacksonbermingham2168]

these are the couplers we talked about burning out with possible positive pressure from combustion chamber.

[@johnc4876]

I strip a coupling in my AFG once a year and there is nothing wrong with the fuel pump and they are new couplings. WHY? Is new biofuel less lubricant than older No. 2 fuels? Are the couplings of a lesser quality? Is my 2 pipe configuration an excessive load on the motor coupling assembly??? Keeps happening.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Is your pump designed for biofuel? GFM

[@1970beerman]

I bought a brand new Beckett burner a month ago. I have lights on the cad cell relay but nothing happens when I hook it up. What can cause this?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Did the burner ever work? GFM

[@1970beerman]

Nope nothing. Lights just flashed on relay

[@gregs9555]

Great channel. Hope you are doing well

[@mattdotson3165]

When I bleed the system there is bubbles then good flow an the burner will fire up but once it reaches the set temp of the thermostat an shuts down the next time is calls for heat the wont fire an I have to rebleed all over again.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The pressure regulator is leaking by. Means new pump. GFM

[@mattdotson3165]

@@grayfurnaceman thank you so much for the fast reply an thank you for sharing your knowledge with all if us out here in the KZbin land

[@markshaw8692]

Thank you I will chk before replacing pump!👍

[@johnc4876]

Can the lack of waxes in the new biofuels cause the fuel pump to run harder stripping the coupler?

[@grayfurnaceman]

I don't have any info on biofuels. GFM

[@vacuumboy6.0]

No it's cheap parts. Cheap parts break. Henceforth more replacement parts more money. This goes for all industries.

[@TheBooze13]

So I had my pump fail replaced last year so I never thought of it being a pump problem. But I’m getting lock outs again. No oil comes out of the bleeder but when I hit the pump oil comes through and fires right up and I get a few burn cycles. It usually takes a long delay off for it to lockout. Possibly coupler? Idk any help would be appreciated thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would be looking at oil supply. Low oil level in tank, plugged filter or line, partially plugged nozzle. GFM

[@TheBooze13]

@@grayfurnaceman thanks for the quick reply I changed the filter and cleaned the screen I know oil is getting up to there just fine. I cleaned the nozzle I’m just waiting for the new one to arrive since no store has the size I need in stock. It’s almost like after a longer period of no fire my pump is losing prime

[@TheWeekendGamerz]

If it has a solenoid , it could be the problem.

[@adamwise7724]

Not related to the video and I apologize but down south here last year we had issues with our 1 1/2 condensing furnace drains freezing when we had subzero Temps. Would like to know how northern techs prevent this.

[@grayfurnaceman]

We drain them inside, such as into a laundry tub. GFM

[@adamwise7724]

Thank you. Wish we could. Cities don't want to have to treat it down here.

[@REWYRED]

It would appear having one of these in the "Spare Parts Bin" would be a wise idea if they are cheap and likely to fail randomly.

[@grayfurnaceman]

You can buy a kit with a length of coupling with a number of ends. GFM

[@--harry_]

I also have a new oil filter, nozzle, new oil pump strainer, and oil pump gasket ready to go in my stash. All inexpensive.

[@geyser3445]

I have a similar Beckett burner. Is there any way to oil the fan motor?

[@grayfurnaceman]

No, they are permanently lubricated. GFM

[@geyser3445]

@@grayfurnaceman Thanks.

[@donaldallen743]

I just replaced the drive key with is similar to a burner coupling. That's what the Riello calls it coupler.

[@Seashea]

Thank you for your comment! I replaced the pump on my riello b5. Purchased the new pump drive key sense it seemed logical to replace that at the same time. Still not pulling oil so this “coupler” was nagging me as a poss next attempt. Thanks for clarifying. Any suggestions to check for blockage in my oil line from tank? Cant think of anything else that would cause no oil coming through the pump. Vacuum is interrupted somewhere 🤔

[@MindKontrolleProject]

Newbie here. Do the oil pumps still have solenoids? Would you be able to place your hand on the pump and feel something if in that state?

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would not count on it. Sometimes they make noise that could imitate a failed pump. GFM

[@danielthechskid]

So it's just like the coupler on a JB vacuum pump.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I believe it is similar. GFM

[@Brad1237202]

Thank You Sir for this video!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Most welcome GFM

[@realestateservicessaleshea99]

Thanks for the tip, watching these U-tube videos,makes oil look glamorous. 🤣 Thanks again for the videos. 🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃🎯🏌🏻‍♀️ Stay safe. Retired (werk'n)keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses.

[@grayfurnaceman]

If a bit stinky. GFM

[@Lenapaudin]

Hello, Excuse me, I contacted you by email, but no reply I am a seller, how to work with you？😊

[@grayfurnaceman]

Send email to [e-mail] GFM

[@Lenapaudin]

@@grayfurnaceman Hello, Excuse me, I didn't get your response in the mailbox🙂

[@caru3257]

That green holder sometimes wear out.

[@dennisqwertyuiop]

great video

[@grayfurnaceman]

Glad you enjoyed it GFM

[@Supanova70]

Mine actually twisted like a pretzel but yet the pump spins free I think it got overheated but it was 40 years old LOL

[@jharvey5540]

Any squealing or grinding noises, that’s the first thing I check.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Never worked on oil fire we don’t have them in San Francisco California. But curious can you find us on an amp draw test.? If it’s just stripped out and not pumping oil for amp draw should be lower?.

[@analogmoz]

That's not a bad idea. If the motor had a smaller load due to a sheared coupling the amp draw should be well under the FLA.

[@wattsup918]

Just pull the motor and inspect. Two bolts. Thirty seconds. Done. IMO, you’re wasting time trying to measure amp draw, motor FLA on a burner is under 2 amps. Unless you put ten wraps through the CT to get x10, you’ve got no resolution on the majority of meters. Add to that you’ve got to know what the FLA is with the fan and pump load actually is before hand to know if the reading is low.

[@--harry_]

No, the motor is doing 2 things, supplying air for combustion and powering the oil pump. You would have had to have a baseline prior, because it would still be providing air.. Also if a motor is under less load, the amps would be higher. Example is the furnace blower motor. Check amps with cover/door off and then on. Door off is higher amp draw because it has less load.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@--harry_ actually if you completely block off the air to the motor the amp draw goes down because it’s not moving anything it has no load. Air is a fluid just like water or mercury it has weight and the more you move the higher the load on the motor. That’s why if you have a motor blower assembly housing outside of the furnace with no air filter on it and no ductwork for static pressure restriction same goes to filter the filter restricts the amount of air flowing through the squirrel cage fan assembly to be moved thus you have less weight to be moved less work. Then you take that exact same blower motor housing assembly out of the furnace and conduct your amp draw with the furnace blower assembly just sitting on a bench top and your amp draw will be way above your full load. I did in posted a video on this a year more ago. This is one of the things your HVAC instructor in HVAC School have to conduct as a test to get the point across to the students no ducting and no filter means you move more hair which is more friction more weight and the blower motor has to draw more amps PCS motor

[@--harry_]

@@coldfinger459sub0 I agree with this reply of yours but not your 1st, stripped coupler with no oil pump would have higher amp draw as I said, not lower as you first posted. It would be hard to detect with amp draw without a baseline because the motor has a blower wheel attached to it as well.

[@ericmilburn9841]

I think in 25 years of service I have only had to change one pump coupler on an oil burner. If it’s stripping out at the coupler body it maybe the body was cut to short and causing the end cap to slip off. Just my thoughts. Not a fan of oil smells to high heaven.

[@throttlebottle5906]

or the pump is worn and binding inside or over pressuring. bypass stuck shut? return line kinked off/valve shut.

[@ericmilburn9841]

@@throttlebottle5906 ya those are valid causes. I was just saying I have never noticed them being a huge problem. Most oil furnaces here are single line systems. And have a bipass plug in return. The one I did change was due to it being melted from poor adjustments being made to the burner. Lucky for me it shut down before it sooted the unit up.

[@edgrabski1390]

Nice little Tip :-)

[@treywilson4310]

You should teach

[@grayfurnaceman]

I did for 9 years. GFM