Finally Understand How to Adjust The Rebound on Your Rear Shock

In this video, we walk through how to understand and properly adjust the rebound setting on the rear shock of your dirt bike, courtesy of Kevin Egbert of The MotXperts, Race Tech Suspension Specialists. It can be confusing but after watching this video, you should feel comfortable adjusting that clicker setting going forward.
Make sure to check out the channel for more dirt bike suspension set up tips like setting sag, properly installing your front wheel, or setting fork height.
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[@Thepianobird]

thanks for confirming, in=slow, out =fast

[@GregHitchko]

Yessir! Any time my dude!

[@toothlessopbet]

I just broke my shoke lol so thank you ill use this info and the rest ive learned to do on my bike thank you

[@GregHitchko]

Glad this video was able to help you out man! Bummer about the shock

[@theohlinsguy4649]

Exactly correct. Rebound is the enemy of grip

[@DirtbikeDad]

I have an 05 yz 125. Was ripping and came across a tree that fell down. Make 6 inches round it bounced me off the seat held on but scared the piss out of me. What adjustment should I do ???

[@GregHitchko]

Oh dang!!! Glad you were able to hold on to that beast and not go down lol. Those situations are tough because traveling at speed hitting a tree like that is going to buck you regardless, but I suggest slowing down the rebound on that shock a little bit. Turn the clicker out, counterclockwise 2-3 clicks and see how that responds for you!

[@chadrides914]

@@GregHitchkoSir, didn’t you mean to say slow the rebound down by turning the clicker IN. Turning it out would speed it up. Your comment confused me.

[@MaintDocs]

@@chadrides914 *Yep, that's what he meant.* In MX you have deeper dirt and high speed vs lots of little jitters, so you need that back tire forced down aggressively. But *when you hit something hard* (aka large square edged rock, or root), *that aggressive extension speed acts like a pogo stick.* So *MX tends to be very fast/out on rebound* (but can have big issues on the whoops if not dialed in well...) *Trail & enduro tend to be slower/more in on rebound.* Enduro to control the pogo, trail for that (lessen the surprise judo throws) and because *at lower speed this makes for more grip and more plush.* MX is about going fast, so *the little jittery bumps need the wheel to push back down faster to keep contact with the ground.* A slower rider can get away with more rebound damping, but a faster rider will _need_ less to keep traction. And if they go to a hard pack track, they will need to soften that or suffer a lot of traction loss (and harshness!). eg hard flat corner: the bike just won't bite a line, and keeps ending up with a wider line than you set). A 1-2 clicks softer low speed comp and 1-2 rebound in would likely sort that and make it corner like it's on rails. *If you took an MX tuned bike to an enduro challenge course:* it's going to be hopping and bouncing everywhere. You try to ride up that log stack, and instead it bounces you and the bike backwards off the obstacle. *If you took an enduro challenge course bike to an MX course:* it's not stood up enough. It was designed to sink in and absorb, so on MX it's going to pack and get harsh (eg back end swinging wildly 3 whoops in) and generally be down too low in travel, riding down in the harsh range almost the whole time. The softness will make the bike want to over-follow the track (getting tugged around) and fighting your attempts to cross terrain, and it will have bad traction - because the tires are not pushing down fast enough to maintain traction. *That's why there is not magic do all suspension.* Though *tuned 1 way is still likely better than ignoring suspension tuning.* A few clicks on each setting can be enough to transform a bike to acceptable do-it-all for another purpose. 1 final note: if you think you are having bad pogo: *check your tire pressure!* We've had 1 day of tuning where we were scratching our heads as to why we couldn't get it to stop harshly pogoing, only to find out that the person had increased tire pressure a lot without telling anyone he made that change. (facepalm) Dropped it to a reasonable psi, and the bike was now too soft and we went back in with clickers. Hope that explanation helped more than it confused

[@EarthSurferUSA]

It matters a lot, what your front end is doing when the back wheel hits something like that. If you got the front wheel over it, and let off the gas too much, the rear can kick as the front wheel is on its way down. But if you (for one example), skimmed your front wheel off the top of the log, (or wheelie pretty hard), and the wheel is still moving up when the rear wheel hits the log, you can take more of a hit because the the front wheel would have to change direction before the rear and can over come it. Some throttle also slows down the rebound, and spreads the shock of the log over a longer distance. Front end coming down, off the throttle,---I don't think there is a set up that can stop that rear end from kicking high if you are moving with any good speed.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

But on a log like that, the rebound is not in play. It is all compression and spring soaking it up, rebounding after you get over the log. It was still compressing a bit when the wheel left the log.

[@wayno23]

Set your sag & compression first then the rebound 👍

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Make sure you have the right spring rates for your weight, before you do anything else. I figured that out after time off a bike, and gaining weight before I got another. :)

[@wayno23]

@EarthSurferUSA yeah true but once you set the rider sag & then check the free sag it will show if you have the right spring.

[@Freeman-ij5xy]

Nowhere on this video to actually demonstrate which direction to turn it for which result you want

[@angelmendoza1876]

Think of it as the needle in a carb, in = slow out = fast

[@korabeats_]

What the other dude said. Lol. For compression, going clockwise or "in" will make the compression stiffer because you're reducing the amount of oil that can flow through the valve stack. Going counterclockwise, or "out", let's more oil through the valve stack so your compression will be softer. For rebound, clockwise also let's less oil through the valve stack, so it'll rebound slower and if too slow, could potentially cause your suspension to "stack" on itself and not let it fully rebound before hitting the next bump. This can make it feel like your compression is way too stiff because you lose a lot of travel, the oil is already partially compressed causing essentially a super stiff compression setting, and it isn't soaking up the smaller bumps. Going counterclockwise will let more oil through which will make it rebound faster. If this is set too extreme, your bike will buck around and feel like you'll get thrown off, or it'll want to wash out in corners or keep tracking straight while in a corner making it hard to steer feeling like it'll want to stand you up and potentially high side you. Start with rebound settings first. Once that's dialed in, go to compression. A lot of people will keep going softer with their compression because it feels super stiff and then wonder why they blow through and bottom out on a large hit. That's usually a sign of too slow of rebound settings.

[@chucksterrr]

What are you on about? The video shows you exactly that

[@baileyhaworth3252]

The first click is click 1 not 0

[@ChookChasersMX]

Might be technically the first click, but that is where you start counting from, not fully shut, so it becomes the zero point. You start counting from that zero. You’ll often find differences in clickers from fork to fork of how far past that last click it goes till complete shut due to tolerances in parts and orifices. To sum up, you use that first click as the starting/zero point and then count out to maintain consistency.

[@MaintDocs]

Valve mashed shut is not zero, *the first detent back out from that is zero.* Does it really matter? yeah: You should _never_ have the valve all the way shut for riding. And it's standardized so we all mean the same thing when we share settings or get recommendations from a tuner. You can count it your own way, but you will be bucking the norm and causing confusion.

[@seamarsh3756]

never know that interesting

[@zackk695]

Doesn’t matter what you call it as long as you set it to what works best. If his benchmark is 0 then he can start with that number. You can start by saying -10 if you wanted to. It won’t matter. Think about it deep