The BEST way to Insulate your Van - Budget Build Ep 6

[@FionanDavidatNo12]

A wee Wednesday surprise video? Don't mind if we do! 😂

[@GregVirgoe]

I'm trying to mix it up a little bit keep my subscribers on their toes, those that will watch whatever the time of week are my core audience that I really want to embrace and thank for always being there to watch the videos. Its not about quantity its about quality and that goes for my viewers too. Love you guys x

[@FionanDavidatNo12]

@@GregVirgoe Right back at ya! Xx

[@Hiker1958]

Love the fact that you explain the physics of insulation principles. There are so many other van conversion vloggers that don’t have a scoobie. Brilliant Greg. Thank you. ATB.

[@GregVirgoe]

I'm trying to get across that it's not just something I thought might work, this is science and facts, and what I know will work from years of experience. Glad you liked it.

[@petreamccarthy8635]

So many of them do how-to videos in which they reveal all their knowledge came from KZbin!

[@Hiker1958]

@@GregVirgoe There a a few KZbin videos that advise against vapour barriers due to the fact that small ( coin sized holes for example) let litres of water vapour in). What’s your take on this Greg?

[@GregVirgoe]

@@Hiker1958 using that logic if a coin size hole lets in litres of water then not fitting one at all means your van will be a mobile swimming pool 😂😃

[@GregVirgoe]

@@Hiker1958 in all seriousness not having one means that all you entire van will produce condensation every day it’s cold out. Why would you let that happen on a daily basis?

[@simonrichardson5203]

100% I wish more people would listen to you mate and not rush their van builds , I took a couple of months addressing all these issues before I started to build out my van

[@GregVirgoe]

It takes longer to do these base build bits than the furniture but they are far more important. 👍🏼😃

[@James_Innes]

Excellent! a bit like an Open University module, except I could understand it. Do they give an R value rating for their foam insulation. I seem to remember for a domestic attic/loft around R-30 is required, so that would be a good target, I doubt you would have much room left in a van, but it would be snug. I look forward to seeing what you level of insulation you go for in the van insulation ÷ space equation.

[@GregVirgoe]

The figure that defines all materials in terms of thermal conductivity is it’s K value. That’s the only true figure that you can compare like for like. So many manufacturers publish false R values to make their product look better than it actually is. But they cannot fiddle the K value, that’s why many don’t publish their K values. So Armaflex k value is 0.033 w/mk PIR is 0.022 and all wool type loft insulations are 0.044 so that means that Armaflex is midway better than all wool insulation but not as good as PIR foam board.

[@James_Innes]

@@GregVirgoe Thanks. I'll look at the K values. I get confused between U value R value K value and C values, but as you say, K is the best for comparison of materials. Shame they don't make a flexible PIR board but Armaflex is a close second and spray foam or a combination Ah I can see where you are headed now.

[@guywarner1719]

Stupid question… and maybe you cover this in future videos… but how do you stud the walls and ceiling without piercing through your beautiful sealed vapour barrier? Screwing into you wall and ceiling joists will also create thermal bridges through your insulation. How do you get around these issues ? (PS: I’m loving your videos - have just bought a Ducato that I‘m now starting to convert)

[@saraj7930]

It’s a breath of fresh air to see ‘Proper’ professional instructional videos. I fitted solar and all the electrical trimmings in my old Bongo a few years ago from watching your older series…..Love the detail! Already waiting for Ep7.

[@GregVirgoe]

That means so much to me, to get feedback like this Sara, thank you :D

[@themax2go]

anyone can draw diagrams and use "bro science / logic". it doesn't actually make it true.

[@Mimbultonia]

Having just bought a boxer van - this series is an absolute godsend! You show the all too important detail that others don’t (which can leave you stranded with questions). I’ll be trying to use your affiliate links to buy stuff where I can as your videos deserve a reward!

[@BrendaHubbard-je9rb]

Hi, my husband and I are working on a ram promaster which very much like your decato. We are in Canada, and find your videos extremely helpful. We are wondering if you have videos of how to insulate the walls and ceiling. If so, please share a link

[@ofah6378]

First comment but long time watcher of your fantastic videos Greg! I know it wont exactly be a faraday cage but just curious if you notice any issues with signals on mobiles etc inside with the reflective foils covering such a large area? I understand theres still plenty of glazing but just curious if its insignificant or not

[@GregVirgoe]

We haven’t noticed anything on our phones or the internet. 😊

[@Silwiu]

i don't know why, but is a pleasure to watch & listen you. a combination of charisma, knowledge, funny.

[@loftysarmad]

Can you give your best opinion as my project is for Nordic temperature. I am talking about -45 outside and 28 inside.

[@GregVirgoe]

28° as an internal temperature is way too hot 🥵 you’ll be in pants sweating like mad 😅 You will need to use thick PIR insulation Min 50mm and thicker if possible. Fill all void with similar expanding foam as that will prevent moisture. If you can get the van sprayed with foam like Eamon & Bec did that would be the best solution. And comfortable room temp is 20°c 😊

[@loftysarmad]

@@GregVirgoe Thank you for the valuable feedback. Will definitely apply as recommended.

[@woody6791]

I appreciate you for sharing your knowledge sir! I am located in Canada, I have been living on the road for about 10 years in my 20’s. In simple cars and vans and also travelling on foot. I am now planning on going back to that lifestyle and will buy a cargo van next spring and fully build my home inside. Your videos are extremely useful, probably the ones that make the most sense for me on KZbin. Thank you!

[@sunseeker8457]

At 20:35. Do I know anyone doing a van build that your video's may help them. "Yeah. Me" I just brought one and it needs a rebuild, has the inside is bad! So I'll be gutting this and starting from scratch. So I hope you keep posting has I will need your help!

[@pattimcquade66]

Greg - YOur the best! How much close cell foam would I NEED TO COVER THE ENTIRE VAN INTERIOR?

[@GregVirgoe]

If it’s a similar size to ours to do the walls and ceiling would take 20sqm

[@markjeppo]

Awesome series. Very clear step-by-step instructions. In this case I've read so much BS about van insulation ("You don't need any, you'll trap the moisture" etc.) , that it's refreshing to have someone like Greg lay out the facts for us, with solid advice on how to proceed. Top job!

[@djpauldavis2848]

Hi Greg as always a wealth of knowledge and information followed you for years and appreciate your information videos I want to build a long Luton one day with good living quarters with workshop at rear but I also would like to carry my 700cc motorcycle I’m glad I haven’t started yet as the eco flow tec has really improved between you and gadget John I’ve learned so much about van building I’m a carpenter so no problem there the only problem I’ve got is witch van do I go with any advice would be great

[@Davesunflower]

problem is this is not the only way of doing things. you dont need a vapour barrier , professional van fitters dont use it when using wool, its about ventilation of the area too

[@royabayliss3277]

Hi Greg, I’m having issues fitting my 50mm celotex insulation board to my roof - so was considering buying some closed cell stuff for the roof.. would you recommend this?? Thanks

[@GregVirgoe]

It would work well on the roof. Have you seen the stick pins I used in the sprinter build. Check out the insulation videos for that van.

[@fabianprioux1136]

Thank you again for this precious video Greg . I am very confused with my build insulation side and would love some advises from you as it's a box truck ( inside box is 6 Lx 2,5 Wx 2,5 m H) with aluminum panel and 40x40 mm steel structure ..I email you the details of the build with photos and should not be long for you to find out if it's correct and advise me the best way to do it🙏.. .Thanks in advance Greg !!

[@GregVirgoe]

I have sent an email back 👍🏼😃

[@raesalmon]

Thanks Greg great video. I am a bit confused by the different insulation boards Kingspan offer - is this one, that you are using for floor & wall, what they call TF70 ?

[@GregVirgoe]

That is perfect to use in your van and is what we used in our sprinter 👍🏼😃

[@michaelthorn2229]

Great video Greg. Should keep the keyboard warriors quiet with hard facts. Cheers.

[@GregVirgoe]

I’m not holding my breath Michael 😂 bound to be a few that think science is wrong 😊

[@GregVirgoe]

it will definitely give them the right information 👍🏼😃

[@GregVirgoe]

it will definitely give them the right information 👍🏼😃

[@michaelthorn2229]

Yep Will be the same peeps that still think the earth is flat…😂

[@philipdunn8376]

Greg I am just about to insulate my ducato/Boxer I think I could fit 50mm in the sides is there any benefit or stick with 25mm boards ??

[@GregVirgoe]

If you can fit thicker go for that. I will be using 50mm or more in the walls. More is always better 👍🏼😃

[@zingleberrie]

I have a confusing (to me) question, so in Australia it’s kind of the reverse for me, I want the inside to be cool as a cucumber when it’s 35c outside, so my logic is saying I’d need to do the insulation order in reverse? So the vapour barrier on the steel wall and then the insulation and cladding etc? Does that track? Or make sense at all? I just know that the inside of my car gets condensation-y on the windscreen when it’s hot out and I have the aircon blasting so i just don’t wanna mess up a van with that!

[@GregVirgoe]

Hot or cold the principles remain the same. You still need to insulate really well to stop the transfer of heat from outside to in. And put the vapour barrier in the same place on the inside for those cold nights. 👍🏼😊

[@bwbrady8372]

On your advice, we used mineral wool and the foam boards in the flat areas. How do you compare the recycled plastic insulation you're using now, with the mineral wool?

[@GregVirgoe]

It has the same thermal properties but is just nicer to use not as scratchy and it is greener creds

[@fjspicer1]

Hi Greg out of interest have you ever thought about using SuperQuilt, I know it is very expensive about £200 a roll and maybe the cost would out rule the benefits

[@GregVirgoe]

You hit the nail on the head. It’s does not have any better thermal properties than far cheaper alternatives I would not waste your money and stick with the basics that work well. Beware of false R value claims that are not real. 😊

[@DeeEee-e2k]

Hi Greg. If I attach 10mm closed cell foam with the reflective surface onto the wall and then 100mm Diall insulation roll on top of that with glue, will I lose my radiant barrier due to there being no air gap? Or will an air gap between the Diall and the plywood be adequate? If so how much of an air gap would I need? Also, as my vapour barrier is already attached to the van wall, does this mean I don't need anything between the Diall and the plywood i.e. a traditional style vapour barrier? Cheers.

[@GregVirgoe]

Forget the radiant barrier you don’t need it. The closed cell foam and foil face is your vapour barrier so as long as you covered all the metal you don’t need another barrier over the Diall insulation

[@velcrots]

Hi Greg, how does this principle work if the temperatures are the other way around? For example if you were trying to keep the interior of the van cold while it's boiling outside? Is it the same type of calculation, or an entirely different ballgame? Thanks!

[@GregVirgoe]

I was using this calculator to predict where condensation would occur however in warm weather you don’t need to worry about condensation but you do need to stop heat gain to the van 🚐 A good thick layer of insulation will slow down the heat transfer. Think of the van like an insulated cool box. Another thing to do is stop the sun getting in through windows with external reflective blinds 🙏🏼

[@James8639]

Love the video its very informative with the facts to back it up! Ill be going down the closed cell route now. Something i can't work out though, shouldn't the vapour barrier be completely sealed e.g like in a loop inside a loop? The outer loop being the van skin ofcourse and the inner loop being the vapour barrier? Or should each wall/surface be sealed with a vapour barrier individually? And if so how can you get around not piercing it with mechanical fixings like staples or screwing battens to the van like people do to keep it effective at being a barrier? Also with internal supports and rails protruding inwards wouldn't this create a bridge through the insulation allowing condesation to penetrate from the outside inward and again vise versa with internal cladding fixtures penetrating through the moisture barrier weather it be in the order of cladding, batten, moisture barrier, insualtion, van or cladding, moisture barrier, batten, insualtion, van ect? Very sorry its a long winded question.

[@GregVirgoe]

Ok let’s take it one piece at a time. 1. Van body is steel sheet so no water moisture or anything else is coming in from outside. 2. The vapour barrier does need to be sealed at all joins and all the edges too with foil tape. 3. Fixing through the insulation is not a problem as the fixing is tightly plugging it’s own hole. 4. Metal rails that are fixed to van body do create a thermal bridge so my recommendation would be to remove them fix a marine ply batten to the van. Insulate and vapour barrier then re fix the metal rails. That way they are isolated from the bodywork. Wood is a good insulator but would need a vapour barrier over it as it’s pourous. Hope that all helps 😃

[@MichelleMiller-b1n]

What is the best way to insulate against heat. I am in Australia & will be chasing the sun/heat. At this point I am thinking leave a big air gap to avoid conduction. Vents for fridge etc Appreciate any input thx.

[@GregVirgoe]

insulation prevents thermal conduction equally both ways hot or cold. Heat is transfered from hot to the cold. So just use lots of insulation and that will act like a big cool box, don't bother with air gaps as the van is not that big and you need the inetrnal space.

[@pattimcquade66]

i am thinking the close cell foam you used for the overhead cab area would be great to used throughout, under wool, and then i was thinking the dynamat (sound deadening) would not be necessary?? What do you think? patti

[@GregVirgoe]

Yes that would work perfectly. 👍🏼😃

[@mariosetsuoyuassa1393]

Hello Greg, I live in Brazil and here, unlike there, the problem is the heat, where the car is exposed to the sun, the plate easily reaches 80 degrees Celsius. How to calculate the thickness of thermal insulation needed to keep the internal temperature at eg 25 degrees Celsius. Thanks.

[@GregVirgoe]

You do need to install very good insulation like PIR and as thick as you can. It will slow down the transfer of heat from outside to inside. Think of your van like a cool box they are insulated well to keep your beers and picnic cold 🥶 also make sure to put external blinds over your windows to shade them from solar gain. That helps the most to keep the van cooler.

[@GeoffAnthonyClinics]

Hi Greg. Greetings from Ireland! Loving this series. Appreciate your step by step, clear and simple instructions / info. Excellent. Thanks so much. 👍☘️😀

[@GregVirgoe]

Hello Geoff, Really do appreciate you taking the time to leave me a great comment, thank you

[@florian6948]

What is your opinion on using PUR/PIR plates for insulation for larger straight areas in the back of the van?

[@GregVirgoe]

PIR is one of the best insulation. We will be using it in the floor ceiling and walls too 👍🏼😃

[@dublove2514]

Hey greg, amazing calculations! I have done the same with the 10mm foam, everywhere I can get to. But a question for you. If we foam everywhere we can get to, what happens with the areas we can't get to? Such as inside the ribs. Does the condensation effect increase or further concentrate on those areas because it now has less other areas to form on?

[@GregVirgoe]

I would suggest going over the top of the ribs with a vapour barrier to stop any moisture getting in there.

[@charliethewanderer6872]

What if the exterior steel skin was sprayed with a truck bed liner ? Will this solve the moisture problem insider the van ? Would Fiberglass exterior skin have less problem ?

[@GregVirgoe]

They would both offer a small thermal resistance but the thickness is small I would expect the internal temp of the body to still be below the dew point. Only truck bodies that don’t suffer are insulated cargo vans but they are a sandwich of 2” PIR foam board so gives great insulation

[@andypryke6750]

HI Greg - whats your view/experience with Aerogel and its potential use on a van conversion?

[@GregVirgoe]

I did manage to buy a small square but it’s just way too expensive £100 a square meter and there are far more practical materials on the market.

[@klli21]

I watching your videos last few years now and also watched another peoples videos. You explanation much better and sharing all details much appreciated. Finally got my van and start it already. Thanks a lot 🙏

[@mrfoameruk]

Thanks. Seems the windows are going to be the worst culprits for condensation.

[@GregVirgoe]

There will be a very small amount in cold weather. But if the van is kept warm and we’ll ventilated at night that will be minimal. I know from 5yrs of living full time with bonded windows.

[@wimhamelink2683]

Hello i miss something which i cannot find while researching to insulate my van, that is what about when it is extreme hot outside like 35 Celsius+ , does insulation help and how thick does it need to be? the condensation calculations are less important and airflow is more important i suppose when it is hot, all i am looking for is to get similar temperatures inside as out side.

[@GregVirgoe]

Insulation works to slow down the transfer of heat so in hot countries it’s always best to add good insulation thickness to slow that transfer down. Think of a cool box with beers in it. 🍻

[@chrisdaly4443]

Hello Greg, I really enjoy your videos. I just have a few questions reference the insulation, in your video your using the closed cell VB and are you putting the recycled insulation on top of this then using the foil as an internal VB?? Can the closed cell be put on the roof before PIR or is this unnecessary. Is the PIR sufficent for the floor without a VB??

[@Michael-m4y]

You are such a wealth of knowledge when it comes these van builds great to see such informative videos , are you going to say or show the prices of items you are using in the build👍👍

[@GregVirgoe]

Yes I will start to include some coatings as we go along. There will of course be a detailed breakdown at the end of the build. 👍🏼😃

[@johnhilton9184]

Hi Greg, I cannot find one of your videos on how you insulated the van roof, and the materials to use.

[@GregVirgoe]

Coming soon! 👍🏼😃

[@happyglampers9053]

Outstanding Mr Yoda of Yoda’s 👏 After having followed your instructions previously, I have an even better understanding of insulation now. You base you vids on professional knowledge and facts, as opposed to what you have watched on the interweb or heard down the pub. That Armacell calculator is the monkey’s nuts. That’ll def come in useful for a future larger project we have plans for. Have a great weekend and we’ll catch up with you both the next time around 🍺👏👍

[@GregVirgoe]

What a fantastic comment. Thank you so much. That makes my day when the videos are appreciated and also that you found it useful to your own projects. Awesome 🤩

[@zachary3352]

This is exceptional information, and you presented it very clearly. Your knowledge and understanding of insulation is evident. Thank you, Greg!

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you very much Zachary really appreciate your kind message 👍🏼😃

[@subject2change313]

In general I watch a lot of videos because I never know when I might find something else that either informs me or inspires me. I personally have 29 years of construction engineering experience but even with that I'm a firm believer that we need to constantly keep ourselves informed. Video such as the ones you produce allow me to have a reference for other people because I just don't have time to make videos myself. Thank you for the hard work and Straight Talk. It provides me one more source of reference for others.

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you for taking the time to send me this comment, it really does make all the effort of makign these videos so worth while when you hear this feedback. Thats made my day Cheers :D

[@Struckgold]

Nate Murphy wears Greg Virgoe pyjamas.

[@GregVirgoe]

That made me laugh. Nate was one of the OG van builders that I followed way back 👍🏼😃

[@scottnuttall3494]

My heart was in my mouth watching the first section of this video after having just completed insulting my van… I’m happy to say I’ve used the 7mm closed cell foam with full backing all around as well as filled gaps with recycled bottle loft style insulation.. and will be wood cladding sections too. Minimal but above the condensation point! Yay! 🎉😂

[@GregVirgoe]

That’s fantastic news. Well done 👍🏼 😊

[@deranocasper]

There isn't many people who has honed there work skills and shared there wealth of knowledge like Greg he takes time out to show us how the job should be done Top Man Greg Virgoe 👍👌😎👌🙏🍻

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you very much. Really appreciated 👍🏼😃

[@martinfields1768]

I have a Peugeot boxer, fitted 6mm dodo mat closed cell foam insulation with the foil, stuck it to the same area in my van, getting horrendous problems with condensation.

[@GregVirgoe]

If your internal conditions are more humid the layer needs to be much thicker as I show at the end of the video. Do you have heating on and vents open to keep your internal humidity down?

[@GregVirgoe]

If you fitted it exactly per my video and you are seeing condensation on the surface of the foil then the thickness of insulation is not enough for your conditions. The surface temperature will be below the dew point. Easy fix is to apply another thicker layer over the top. Make sure it’s adhered to the surface and all edges and joins are sealed.

[@martinfields1768]

@@GregVirgoe My comment is not meant as a criticism of your video, merely pointing out that 6mm foam may not be enough to prevent condensation. I converted my van last year and have been living in it full time since beginning of 2023. Your previous van build videos were and are a valuable, easy to follow/understand source of info for anyone self building/converting a van. The van is insulated with 12mm dodo mat, dodo mat thermal fleece and a vapor barrier with all joins and seams sealed with foil tape, again your previous insulation video was an valuable source of info, When I came to insulate above the cab 12 mm was out of stock and after doing some research thought 6mm would be adequate, unfortunately not , as you suggest I need to add more insulation. I have been following you for a while now and will continue to do so even tho my van build is complete. Keep up the good work Greg, your how to videos are an excellent source of info for anyone planning on a self build conversion. Thank you for all your hard work.

[@KarenHall-us6rx]

Hi Greg , Thanks for the info as usual. I’ve noticed you don’t mention rockwool insulation in this build ? As you used it in your Mercedes van build , is there a reason for this ?

[@GregVirgoe]

The recycled stuff was not about when we did our build so the earthwool was the best option at the time and is still ok to use. The Diall stuff is nicer to use and better eco credentials They both have identical thermal properties. 👍🏼🤩

[@wreckdetective1510]

What's your thoughts on condensation in the uninsulated areas of the cab?

[@GregVirgoe]

The key is to keep the van warm and well ventilated to minimise that effect. If you allow the interior to get cold and the moisture content is high the problem will be worse. No doubt you will get a bit mostly on windows but that can’t be avoided. 👍🏼😊

[@leelendon1482]

Hi Greg phew you saved my life . I'm at this stage now . Have used 75mm kingspan on walls, 25mm on floor and ceiling . With 8mm silver adhesive backed closed cell on all main panel surfaces. I have a gap so was thinking should I use thermawrap bubble stuff . Or as some say use 150micron polythene . Could I ask you your thoughts . All the best 👍

[@GregVirgoe]

That sounds great. The foil is completely impervious to moisture and with a little sissy adhesive is very easy to install. Some polythenes are very slightly permeable and can be more awkward to install. The double foil bubble also gives you a slight thermal break. Hope that helps. 👍🏼🤩

[@crazycrab8578]

people go on about insulating the inside of a vehicle, but what about putting some thing on the outside, now, I am after some thing that is cheap, flexible, thin, 100% waterproof, that I can glue to the roof of me Tramper van, reason , to cut down the sound of rain heating the metal roof, cut that sound down, is better then insulating the inside from the sound, any ideas please, must be cheap, and nice vids, seen a load of them , good info,

[@GregVirgoe]

I don’t think it’s a practical solution to insulate the outside for many reasons. If you use a thick 20mm closed cell foam on the inside of the roof it will greatly reduce the sound of rain on the roof. Check out my link in description it will make a huge difference 👍🏼😃

[@shortnewsitemsinfrenchwith1831]

The gold standard on how to insulate a van, with detailed explanation of the science and practicality. Here for posterity for everyone to access. Many thanks.

[@GregVirgoe]

I hope it helps many van builders to make the right decisions and build lasting van conversions 🤩

[@themax2go]

gold standard of "bro science" maybe

[@shortnewsitemsinfrenchwith1831]

You couldn't be more wrong. bro.

[@themax2go]

case in point 😆

[@ezzylock]

Hey Greg, thanks for all your hard work making these videos. Quick question, how long was the roll you bought for the closed cell insulation? Needing to get it for mine and a friends van to do each of our perspective cabs. Any recommendations would be amazing! :)

[@ezzylock]

Following on from that, the thing I'm having trouble with is finding the right product on the link you provided as there are so many different options which makes knowing which one to get, other than the depth, a little tricky.

[@GregVirgoe]

In the video I used 10mm thick and you need at least 2m to do the cab roof. I bought a 5m roll for £62 so I could also do the wheel arches and other areas. Hope that helps

[@bloochoob]

Always the best guy to ask on all things van build! The Van Build Scientist 👨‍🔬 😂

[@GregVirgoe]

I like to give the actual facts rather than rely on guess work. 👍🏼🤩😎

[@richarddraper6994]

Another great demo Greg thank you and I’ll be doing a vapour barrier on my build as you’ve always said of its importance. One thing I’m not sure on as we concentrate on the barrier on the inside but do you have to take steps to stop air moving from outside the van through the outer skin? In my mind there will always be small holes and gaps you won’t know about but is that ok? Thanks

[@GregVirgoe]

You do need to seal up the plastic trim on the sides. But things like door handles and lights we will deal with different as you can’t stop those from leaking. Stay tuned 👍🏼

[@stewartashling]

I have no insulation on that bit causing water and stink of dampness.

[@GregVirgoe]

Can you still remove the headliner and address the problem 👍🏼😃

[@markkunath8440]

That was really helpful. You seemed to Butt Joint the insulation rather than overlap the joints. Just wondering why? Thanks

[@GregVirgoe]

I got it as tight together as I could so there was not gap then taped over to give a smoother finish. There's no problem if you want to overlap that would be better in areas where its not going to be seen as it would obviously double up the thickness. Cheers :D

[@stco2426]

Really impressed with this, plus the calculator and links to the online store. I was following the calculations as you did yours and chose some harsher values. Very much appreciated and thanks for sharing your knowldge!

[@GregVirgoe]

Obviously this video try’s to show what is the minimum. I’m reality you would like to add much more insulation to cope with those different conditions. Thanks for watching and glad you liked it.

[@tonym2540]

Just outstanding! Genius is to make the complex simple. Okay, now that I understand the need for insulation/vapor barrier, etc. I'm wondering how to deal with an L-track long my van walls? (It's a Sprinter just like your first van). I really like the L-track, yet if I insulate over them they're useless. But, if I understand correctly if I don't insulate over them, they will ruin the insulation property of those portions of the van walls What do I do? I've considered maybe making insulated covers for the parts of the L-track not in use, but I'd really appreciate any advice you have.

[@GregVirgoe]

Please can you email or PM me a photo so I can see what you are dealing with. You can find my email on my about page of this channel or look me up on Instagram. 👍🏼😃

[@tonym2540]

@@GregVirgoe Thank you for your offer. I've sent the email.

[@rasdex6908]

If your using the wool type insulation and stuffing it into the hard to get to like wall box sections etc, do you have to keep in mind not to stuff it in too tightly? does it need to be a bit looser to do its job properly or doesn't it really matter if its stuffed in tight?

[@GregVirgoe]

It’s a negligible difference so don’t worry too much.

[@getawaygeese]

Great video well explained - complete numpty novice and more a question on the science - you used 10mm - is there a greater gain if it were say 15 / 20mm ie do you gain a lot is the extra thickness not worth the cost ?

[@GregVirgoe]

It would be far better to use a much thicker insulation yes you gain a lot in terms of better insulation. This is the minimum to combat any condensation. adding another layer or using thicker materials would be better but as you say there is a cost implication.

[@justjudy7320]

❤😂 okay sir I think I have my last question. Given the fact that winter is coming the temperatures are now 65° during the day dropping to 50 in the next few days and it will be 30 to 40 during the night. Almost everything is ready to put the foam in place and get her taped for my question is should I try to do it in sections completed with the bubble wrap reflectix or should I do all the foam and wool and then try to put a couple of heaters in to dry whatever moisture might be in the wool and then hang the reflectix? Does introducing heat into the van make the condensation worse? Cuz I can wear a pair of ski pants😂😂 and run the two Max Air fans on exhaust to pull out the moisture coming out of me and possibly a helper God I hope😂😂

[@GregVirgoe]

There is actually less moisture content in cold air than there is in warm air. So I suggest opening the van to brave the cold that will keep it well ventilated and as long as there is no moisture on the metal of the van then seal it up with reflectix. Having the van shut up with heat in there will make it worse.

[@justjudy7320]

@@GregVirgoe thank you that's what I figured. Ski pants it is

[@mikejohnson7768]

Hi Greg my biggest concern is keeping the heat out of the van in Arizona sun conditions,what armaflex product would you suggest in my sprinter

[@GregVirgoe]

You need to maximise the thickness of the insulation to reduce the transfer of heat through the structure. Also external blinds on all glass makes a massive difference to reduce the solar gain which is the largest contributor of heat in a campervan. 👍🏼

[@mikejohnson7768]

@@GregVirgoe I've got a panel van and opted not to cut any windows into it for that reason.also have a wood partition between the cab and living space, thank you Greg!

[@Ellie_Melloy]

Hey, thanks for the great video, just what I needed as I'm at this exact stage with my van. Can I ask, is this the only area where you used this type of insulation? I see you already have something on your rear arches, have you used closed cell there as well or would you recommend it for that? Also, I started looking for a 20mm thick version but it's not as easy to get as 10mm. You think there would be any issue doubling up the 10mm stuff as long as the joins in both layers are sealed with foil tape? Just trying to work out how much I would need as I want to buy it all at once. Thanks again for all your awesome videos, it's helpful to learn from someone who knows how to do the job properly.

[@GregVirgoe]

Yes we did use it on the wheel arches and in the next midweek video I will explain why. If you click on my product link on the description it takes you to an eBay shop where they sell all different thicknesses including some 20mm thick. You can also double it up if you want to 👍🏼😃

[@Ellie_Melloy]

@@GregVirgoe Awesome, thank you so much!

[@AZRockRunner]

I have been using closed cell XLPE foam as insulation for the floor, like it a lot but still contemplating on what to do with the wall and ceiling. I am switching back and forth between wool and thinsulate, then someone suggested spray foam. I don't want spray foam because it could be a mess, not DIY friendly. This video turns on a new light bulb. Thinking to glue 3/8" thick XLPE closed cell foam to the metal, both on the outer skin and the ribs. In between, I can stuck thinsulate or wool, then a cheap thin foil vapor layer before the ship lap wood panel. What do you think mates?

[@GregVirgoe]

Sounds like a great solution that should work well 👍🏼😃

[@lewistowne6628]

Hi Greg, I have the same van as this as currently using your videos as a step by step guide to do mine. Just wondered what size roll of the 10mm close cell foam you bought to do the van? Thanks

[@GregVirgoe]

I have purchase two 5m rolls as I plan to use it elsewhere 👍🏼😃

[@lewistowne6628]

@@GregVirgoe Thanks, will get some ordered 👍

[@asaandthemarchharepart2903]

Brilliant one Greg. This is the important video I've been waiting to watch. Recap from watching the first time you did this a while ago. Really appreciate all your advice. Got boxes of all these stuff off Dodo waiting to go in the new build. Cheers Greg. Fabulous to follow 👌👍

[@GregVirgoe]

You are most welcome and I'm pleased you are enjoying these techy videos

[@jonflatjord9155]

Hi Greg Greatings from Norway What about to use only Low-E insulation? Jon

[@GregVirgoe]

I got a sample of that delivered time a couple of days ago. It is really thin only 5mm or so. Therefore it’s barely enough to stop condensation and no where near enough for good thermal properties. If you installed 10 layers of it that would be better but not practical. One thing it would be good for is the vapour barrier. A final layer of that over everything before cladding would be the best thing it could be used for. Ignore any bogus R value claims as they are calculated with a bunch of other building structures so gives a false idea of its own properties. Hope that helps. 👍🏼😃

[@jonflatjord9155]

Thanks

[@ericdelevinquiere9902]

Interesting, I have the opposite problem, hot outside, cold (a/c) inside, easier to deal with for sure since your outer shell becomes your vapor barrier and the air conditioner is sucking the moisture out of the inside of the rv.

[@GregVirgoe]

You will never have condensation issues if the ambient air is warmer than the inside of the van. You only need to insulate for heat loss and that works the same as an insulated cool box to keep your van cool and slow down the heat transfer

[@MiniLuv-1984]

Absolutely essential information Greg. Thank you mate. I live in Australia and in the "outback" we get night time sub zero temperatures and daytime > 40oC temperatures, on the northern coastal areas we get moderate night and daytime time temperatures ranging from 15 - 35oC and very high RH, while further south, coastal, we will get 5-40oC with a lower RH. Mountainous areas will treat us with sub zero temperatures and low humidity. Our RV's have to deal with all these extremes as we move from true camping (tarp and air flow) to glamping (A/C & Heating in an campervan or caravan). The question is how do we best deal, insulation wise, with such wide variations of humidity and temperature and keep A/C use to an absolute minimum (offgrid situations)?

[@GregVirgoe]

Maximising the insulation will help to slow down the transfer of heat in both cold and hot climates meaning you need less energy to heat or cool your campervan. 👍🏼😃

[@paulclubbe7162]

What’s your thoughts on spray foam insulation?

[@GregVirgoe]

It’s got excellence thermal properties and has its own in built vapour barrier. Don’t side are messy install and permanent installation

[@lincolndave1966able]

After absorbing all your initial van build videos before commencing my van build, I took the decision to have mine spray foamed with closed cell foam insulation by a professional company. I spec'd a minimum thickness of 50mm but in reality if far exceeds that by 50-150% almost everywhere but the floor when they finished it flush to all the timber framing I had pre installed. Needless to say it works an absolute treat and it was a really fast process taking about half a day which included masking off and trimming back flush afterwards. Cost wise it was about similar to what using quality products in a traditional 3 step (sound, deadening, PIR board and vapour barrier) would have cost. There was no deformation of the van walls afterwards as many people fear with spray foam but my van is an 11 plate iveco daily so the steel used is a tad thicker than many manufacturers use these days.

[@GregVirgoe]

It is the perfect solution, its got the best thermal insulation properties, you wont get any issues with condensation and it woudl be great for sound deadening and absorbtion too. Obviously its a permanent installation and can be messy to install if not got an experience crew but well done you wil have a great van for sure.

[@davidmuirhead1060]

A word of caution about spray foaming. If you encapsulate the vehicle wiring harness inside any of the body channels / cavities then you will have serious problems if a fault occurs. Try to get the harness either out and then repositioned or run through a suitable conduit or tube. Same if you want to run the new leisure harnesses along any body channels. Try to plan your cable routes before you insulate. A lot of panel vans use the area near the rear light clusters for extracting the air from inside the van. Greg's use of permeable "wool" in the rear vertical door hinge channels is the best idea in that area. Some panel vans have obvious rear vents on the rear of the van, so these are needed to allow ventilation. If you can't see any obvious extraction vents at the rear of the van then it probably vents around the rear light clusters ( a low pressure area ). I have seen them as low as the bumper area on some vehicles. I am retired now but I used to do a lot of auto electrics and vehicle rewiring - hence the experience fishing out harnesses. I have a L1H1 Ducato which has a full double bed, shower cubicle, electric plumbed in toilet, domestic sized midi fridge, microwave and a removeable kitchen station. It was a lot of work figuring everything out.

[@lincolndave1966able]

@@davidmuirhead1060 none of my services are buried behind the insulation, I've designed it all to be easily accessible but hidden to aid fault finding and future upgrades/modifications.

[@davidmuirhead1060]

Being 5 months behind your build blog, my comments are meant for future readers of this excellent channel. I spent hours feeding in pvc pipes (rigid and corrugated flexy ) so I could feed all sorts of cables front to rear and side to side. I have separated 12v from solar from mains ( which both goes into and out of my van ) and I have conduits for rear cameras and full time CCTV. I can't see many people ever going to the lengths I have! All the best@@lincolndave1966able

[@Jim_Kay.]

Great video as always, Greg. Question: What thickness PIR board did you use for the ceiling? Cheers, J.

[@ifell3]

Love the scientific explanation! The only van that will have snow on in the winter is going to be those who subscribe aha

[@GregVirgoe]

Absolutely 👍🏼 like the houses in your street with snow on the roofs. It’s about slowing down that heat transfer 👍🏼😃

[@lionelho74]

Love your content and thank you. I have a question please if you don't mind. You use 25mm insulation on the floor but 50mm insulation on the ceiling. Is there any particular reason for this please?

[@AttwoodMJ]

Greg, did you do a video for the walls etc? I've browsed your channel (some fantastic bits BTW) but couldn't see one...despite you end one of the videos stating it'll be the next vid...

[@nate2807]

Outstanding explanation and like others have said, I really appreciate the concise yet thorough scientific explanation of the wall system and the physics of its function. What do you think of having 2 layers of 15mm foil backed closed cell foam? Good for prohibiting condensation but still not thick enough to achieve adequate R-value for year-round use in cold climates?

[@wexwayne]

Hey Greg didyiudo this with your sprinter build

[@GregVirgoe]

No but I should have done it 😊

[@PipoZePoulp]

I've seen cars in Southern France/Spain where the inner linings are falling from the ceiling/walls because the temperature under the sun was so high it melted the glue. How would the self adhesive on the foam deal with this conditions?

[@GregVirgoe]

These areas are all going to be insulated over and wrapped with vapour barrier and cladding which will also hold it all in place. Nowhere for it to fall to.

[@PipoZePoulp]

@@GregVirgoe So, the linings don't have to be in contact with the bare metal then. That suits me, I'd rather have all layers glued to the inner wood panels, and with the ribs as the only thermal bridge. Air is good insulation, and a couple of computer fans could run some air circulation to chase any moisture. While I've got your attention, I'd like to thank you; your videos have been a great help and inspiration.

[@theazzi]

Hi Greg, thanks for your great dedication in teaching us all how to do it well! One thing though I still haven't understood: do you make the vapour barrier connect between walls and floor at the rear, or do you let the vehicle drains do their work? What about the sliding door? Thanks again

[@GregVirgoe]

You need to seal any sides top and bottom. I do connect my floors to ceilings too. Block up any plastic trim clips so you will not need to use drains. With doors it is different as you cannot prevent water ingress from handles and locks. I will be covering these separately as they need a different approach to maintain the water draining. I have a great solution for doors 👍🏼😃

[@ruben8114]

Thanks for the info! Question: what if the insulation ends up being not thick enough and condensation does happen? Will this then be trapped within the barrier/insulation without the possibility of evaporating?

[@GregVirgoe]

No if vapour has got in there then when it heats up and the air expands it will get back out and take the moisture with it. You are not going to have a ever increasing pool. Just doesn’t work like that.

[@ruben8114]

Great to know, thanks!

[@ivanriverooo]

Wow that armaflex thing looks promising. Calculator says I need 6mm but, I still feel that might be too thin wouldn't it? Is it really that good? What's the nominal thermal conductivity value of armaflex? 0,03 maybe? What about the plastic bottle wool's? So I could put the wooden pannels directly onto the armaflex and it'd be safe regarding the condensation? I guess you must wrap the whole van filled with armaflex, not one inch free of it, right? By the way Greg we spoke a few years ago I am glad to see you're doing great!

[@GregVirgoe]

This is the minimum thickness you would need to prevent condensation forming. In order to give you good thermal insulation then you need to put the most insulation in that you can using PIR where possible and recycled wool in other areas. Just 6mm of Armaflex on it own would not be sufficient

[@ivanriverooo]

@@GregVirgoe How about 20mm for a Hiace XL body. About 280x140x140. Would that be sufficient for all purposes. I am facing -10 at night where I'm heading.

[@residentweavil233]

question when you say 6mm required i presume that depends on WHAT insulation you are using and its properties eg superquilt versus celotex or does the properties not matter so long as its above 6mm? ie 6mm is a thickness specifically for their thermal properties of one of their products? or does this not matter if its closed cell foam reason for asking is im limited in height l4h2 boxer and was thinking about superquilt over celotex

[@GregVirgoe]

As I demonstrated at the end of the video the thickness varies with the conditions and the type of material. A reasonable minimum for closed cell would be the 10mm sheet

[@residentweavil233]

@@GregVirgoe yeah sorru i have not articulated my question correctly. you talked about condensation occurring but not inside closed cell foam due to its nature. I was wondering given the make up of superquilt each bubbble individually sealed and multilayer of foil etc in your opinion would be similar in condensation control. asking because i dont think i can have 50mm (25 top and bottom) in our lhh2 and was looking at something with higher thermal properties but got confused between thermal properties and your dew point calc

[@strifex-suspension-works]

I'm wondering, what is your view on the topic of penetrations in the vapor barrier, for example, where LED, sockets, etc. pass through it? Surely, these types of "penetrations" cannot be fully isolated by a vapor barrier and thus vapor will get through them.

Hi Greg, Thanks for your very informative van build videos. What is your opinion on the use of Loft Roll insulation (e.g. Knauf EKO) for inside the beams and small voids?

[@ewanstevenson]

That's a great bit of info and a good resource for working out what you need. However, you can tell what a southerner you are if you think that REALLY cold is -10! 😂

[@GregVirgoe]

You got to have a few screws loose if you like the cold 🥶😂😃

[@markballard3692]

Hi. Great you have proper knowledge on this. Closed cell expanding foam. Any reason why this shouldn't be used to fill those tricky voids. Like roof beams, around door voids etc. Thanks

[@richendaingram]

Simply the best. I think there should be a new van build standard for people who follow your builds- Greg Virgoe Certified build - (GVCB Certificate) 🙂

[@joesvanjourney]

But from on my understanding, the vapor barrier myth has been debunked already, as there's absolutely no way to fully insulate a vehicle with a vapor barrier to prevents that. I've always been told that proper airflow is the only way to combat condensation

[@-Enginerd]

The takeaway for me was while the min. insulation thickness to avoid condensation was interesting, a vapor barrier is just about mandatory no matter what type/amount of insulation is used. Because realistically, in a mobile housing application, it's just a matter of time until you have a large temp. delta across the wall paired with a high internal relative humidity resulting in condensation. I found the heat loss calcs from Greg's original "Vanlife Insulation Part 1 - The facts you need!" a bit more useful because that could be used to size a heater for given conditions. Looks like the recommended new calculator can do that too. Thanks for sharing!

[@GregVirgoe]

You are spot on with your comment, without any form of vapour barrier, condensation will form at the right conditions. so the key is put enough insulation in to combat the heat loss or heat gain then an effective vapour barrier to prevent condensation forming in cold climates. It's a no brainer, if you don't want your hard work ruined by water damage in a couple seasons. Thank you :D

[@leezeraloe3821]

Hi Greg. Very professional advice. May I ask what insulation you'd recommend for a medium sized UK van, conscious of limited space, head height etc ? Especially to floor and ceiling ? Thanks.

[@scottwalker3162]

50k campervans have polystyrene

[@GregVirgoe]

We all know about the poor quality of massively overpriced production vehicles. 😳

[@antbarton6763]

Yet again another fantastic example of your videos Greg, exceptional content and talent 😀 I look forward to the next 1

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you Ant, really appreciate your continued support 😊

[@deutscheklassiker5677]

Aerogel Greg.. I’d love to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks

[@GregVirgoe]

It’s developed by nasa for spaceships and I purchased a small square of it. It’s about £100 a square metre so is totally impractical for normal use.

[@Rina1ful]

Can you come help me do mine lol, or is there anyone in Devon that could come help us lol

[@fredericlpoulin7778]

Thanks very much for all the knowledge mate! Amazing

[@RedBatteryHead]

Also mention ventilation. In partly barrier or non, ventilation also gets condens out of the way.

[@GregVirgoe]

Yes, the combination of heat and ventilation in your van can greatly reduce the condensation. I will do a video on psychometrics to explain what is happening to the air when you do this. There will still be a little condensation on cold surfaces but it can be reduced.

[@carlfielding2082]

Complete Novice so please forgive if this is a stupid question. But if you go to warmer places will this keep heat out or make it worse?.

[@GregVirgoe]

Insulation slows down the transfer of heat. So it works both ways. Think of an insulated cool box full of beers on a sunny day. They stay cold because the box is insulated

[@carlfielding2082]

@@GregVirgoe that makes sense, thank you Greg 👍

[@triggerhappyhippie]

In the Armawin calculator, should you enter the relative humidity of the outside? Like here in Sweden it's 93% right now which means I need 50mm armacell, that's not feasible at all...

[@Rob.1340]

👍😎