What Would I Do Differently? Van Upgrades

If I could build another van, what would I do differently? Is a question I get asked a lot since we finished our Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van. Now that we have lived in the van for a few months, here's what I am going to change and why?
The first thing is the roof fans, we have to have our fans shut when it rains, that means we have no ventilation and that's not very practical. The condensation builds up on the windows and you really need that ventilation.
We visited a good friend Greg who has also completed a self-built Mercedes Sprinter and he used Maxxfan Deluxe, so we take a look at how they work and see how quiet they are. In the next videos, we will be looking at the Maxxfan range, removing the old fans and installing two of the new Maxxfan Deluxe on our van.
They come in a range of coloured lids including White, Black (smoke) and Clear (Tint)
If you would like to purchase a Maxxfan for your self-build project you can do so with these links
Maxxfan Deluxe with remote control - Clear Lid (Tint)
rover.ebay.com...
Maxxfan Deluxe with Remote Control - White Lid
rover.ebay.com...
Maxxfan Deluxe with Remote Control - Black Lid (Smoke)
rover.ebay.com...
Disclosure - As an eBay Partner, I may be compensated if you make a purchase using the above affiliate link. Thank you for supporting our channel.
In the coming weeks, you can expect a run-through of the Maxxair range of roof fans and unboxing of our new fans.
We will be video the removal of our old fans and dealing with that amazing Sikaflex, not going to be easy.
Plus of course, a detailed installation video showing you the new fans in operation.
Loads to look forward to so please make sure you are subscribed and hit the little bell symbol.
If you found any of these videos to be useful to you and would like to say thank you can do so here
www.paypal.me/...
Thank you very much for watching my videos and for your support.
Greg Virgoe

[@GregVirgoe]

UPDATE ON OPERATION OF THE MAXXFAN WHEN CLOSED - I have checked this and the manual described it like this as - CEILING FAN MODE - With the fan motor running, close the Vent Lid to enter Ceiling Fan Mode. The fan motor will continue to run and circulate air within the RV cabin. So, therefore, it is closed to the outside when shut down and just recirculating air within the van. That does make more sense now. Sorry for any confusion.

[@mazyondown7680]

Greg Virgoe ah, I see now. Thanks for this. 👍

[@brucefay5126]

Greg, et al: I just checked one of my Maxx-Fans in closed mode. The vent/hood is definitely sealed all the way around. Yes, the fan will run as a “ceiling fan” with the lid closed. Not as effective as a true ceiling fan, but the blade is safely contained behind the inside screen. Good luck with your project, I think you are going to really like the Maxx-Fan units.

[@GregVirgoe]

Bruce Fay thanks for confirming that.

[@rocksy71]

@@GregVirgoe please contact me 07533802700

[@BenZabbia]

When the hood is closed I was told there is still venting. That's why the Gas fitters allowed me to install a gas cooker inside the van (Australian law). So my understanding is that when the hood is closed and the fan is on extract, then air is still being sucked out. But that is contrary to what Bruce is saying. So I'm a bit confused. Might have to contact the manufacturer for some clarity.

[@gvlive]

Greg, I bought my van a week ago. I had to stop in and thank you profusely for your series. Your no nonsense/no man-bun/no fluff production gets to the heart of what I need. I plan to watch your series repeatedly until I understand. Thanks again.

[@PompeyBoy66]

Me too.

[@Rennix13]

Greg, a tip when doing the MAXX FAN, if you put alloy strips over the plastic insert on the outside, it helps to keep the plastic from warping in the hot sun. You will have to drill the holes to match the insert and screw down the metal on top of the flange, this helps to keep equal pressure all around. You can buy a factory aluminium surround, but i think your more than capable of making one...I done mine with galvinized steel strips and covered with sikaflex...no leaks so far...

[@TwoHandsInPants]

Instead of using dedicated USB sockets I would instead install the standard cigarette lighter sockets. They are universal for all kinds of electronic gadgets and you can get USB adapters in all forms and shapes very cheaply. That way you can quickly adapt to any future USB (or otherwise) charging standard that will come. At the moment your 10W USB socket might still be ok-ish, but for modern phones and tablets you already need QuickCharge 3.x. In the future everything will be USB-C to charge laptops and cameras with over 60W...and who knows what comes next. With your USB sockets you'll have to change your installation every time something new pops up that isn't USB.

[@RAL2010]

Standard cigarette lighter sockets is the way to go. It gives you maximum flexibility and efficiency with respect to your future power needs.

[@eeedelli]

Yes I would agree with that principle but there is one disadvantage with cigar lighter sockets. I find that the spring-loaded plunger in the plug tends to gradually push the plug out under vibration and you only realise it's done so when your phone/satnav goes off at a crucial motorway exit just as its batt runs out! After the third time I'd had this happen to me, I decided to do something about it. I installed a flying lead with a C19/C20 IEC connector pair (like a kettle connector but with horizontal pins instead of vertical so it can't get plugged into anything mains by mistake) which I tapped directly into the feed to the existing cab cigar lighter socket (with a suitable in-line fuse) leading to the C19 female end. The C20 plug from this then feeds a flying lead cigar lighter socket on the floor just in front of my gear lever. Why on earth do it that way? Because I then made little clamps with studding and wingnuts that holds the two halves of the flying lead cigar plug/socket together so that they don't gradually push apart. The C19/20 are very stiff, click together and aren't spring-loaded, so they don't come apart. I then plug in a 4A Anker 5-way USB charge adaptor (www.anker.com/products/variant/powerdrive-5-ports/A2311011) into the flying lead cigar lighter socket which I then clamp together with the wingnuts & studding and all my accessories then plug into that little tray of USB outputs. It sounds more messy than it is but it all works well and I'm no-longer forever having to check whether the Anker's cigar plug has gradually worked its way out of the dashboard socket.

[@DrRideWell]

Hi Greg , any advise on the best type of TV to use please. Chris.

[@jacobwhite9006]

Can you charge a Macbook Pro via a lighter socket using USB-C?

[@floe3149]

For wild camping, 12v TVs are by far the best to use in a camper and there is a great deal of choice out there. Some have inbuilt DVDs, but you can now rip your fav films from DVD and put them onto a USB stick and plug it in the back. This makes the TV lighter, lower profile and ultimately less expensive. Many people complain that on a trip to the south of Ireland that, their TV loses many channels. This is due to the format that the TV is broadcast in. Ireland SAORVIEW uses MPEG 4 and GB uses MPEG 2. If you get a TV with SAORVIEW capability it will pick up both MPEG 2 and 4, so you can always be guaranteed your channels anywhere in Europe. Walker do a good line in SAORVIEW TVs. They're not as expensive as some of the other brands, but the picture quality is excellent and the remote is easy to use.

[@linz_in_NZ]

I've gone for some dual 12v sockets, 2 USB and a 12V power socket combined into a neat unit. It means I can charge/run anything from them, as you can get adapters for Laptops/Macbooks etc. I did get an Inverter though - to run the Induction hob and TV - as I already had them - saved buying another TV that was 12V. I also have a portable butane canister hob that we can use outside. Keep the updates coming, always good to hear what does and doesn't work for how different people use their vans.

[@MultiPJoys]

I've gone for some dual sockets too in a unit. I think it's the perfect combination, it works great.

[@martinsmayhem1]

Great video as always. A consideration to simplify your wiring, retain shore power capability and improve the sine wave would be to use a 'Sterling sinewave Combi inverter charger 12v 3500watt PCS123500'. I have been using this in my van for 8 months. It inverts perfectly including running our induction hob every day. I have a remote switch in the van that comes with it that turns it completely off so no power is used when it is off. It charges our 12v batteries with a built in algorithm from shore power just by plugging it in. When there is no shore power it automatically switches to the batteries. All you need is a small consumer unit between it and the plug sockets. If you are not running something as hungry as an induction hob there are smaller models with the same capability. The other clever benefit is that when plugged in to shore power it directs that power to the sockets bypassing the batteries. We can charge the batteries at the same time as running the hob and all the other 230v appliances.

[@h0llytr0n]

great tip, i've seen similar units I think by victron but I didn't realise there were other makes available. Did you compare your Sterling choice to any similar units and what can I google to track down others? :) Would love any resources you have on your wiring/electric setup.

[@martinsmayhem1]

Holly Grant I did some extensive research when I bough it and decided on the Sterling one because of its capacity to do 3.5kw and a maximum of around 4.2kw for 30 minutes. I had also been recommended Sterling for their DC-DC chargers and inverters by a car electrician who works out of his van. That said apart from the DC-DC charger and inverter my entire system including batteries is Victron. Their super cycle batteries are tested to completely discharged over 300 times and still work perfectly. This gave me piece of mind, if we accidentally leave something on we don’t kill the batteries. My wiring resembles that of ‘Adventure in a backpacks’ no information I could share here would be as good as their videos. They do extensive videos. The only difference are the brands I used plus the DC-DC charger instead of a split charge relay. Let me know if I can help with anything else.

[@martinsmayhem1]

Holly Grant Also it’s called an Inverter charger. Be careful with what you chose because cheap ones will ruin your electrics and your batteries. The Sterling one has selectable programmes for charging

[@scottedwards9994]

Hi Greg, One of the features I liked about the Maxxfan is the fact that the base is separate from the fan unit. This means that you glue and screw the base to the roof, then with only 4 screws, attach the fan unit to the base. I think this is brilliant. If in the future you need to repair your fan, you can actually take it off the roof without having to remove the seal! Mine works flawlesly...... the remote is so nice to have next to the bed....If it is hot in the morning, I can just reach for the remote and open it....or, if I leave it open at night, I can close it is it gets too cold. Unfortunately, It does not have an easy way to leave the fan open with the fan itself turned off. I like to leave it open at all times, all year, even in the rain and snow, as it helps keep the inside of the RV smelling mold free! So I have to have it open as I shut off the battery disconnect. The problem is, If I leave my battery selector switch on dual charge, then start up the RV to move it, the fan automatically shuts...... it's a minor inconvenience, but wish there was a fix. Cheers, Scott

[@GregVirgoe]

Scott Edwards so what you are saying is when it’s open it’s running. You can’t just have it open without the fan spinning is that right??

[@scottedwards2349]

@@GregVirgoe I'm not sure about that..... I think you can turn the fan off with the top open...but the remote is a bit finicky for me. There are processes you must follow to make it happen..... and sometimes I forget...in other words, it is not really evident. I think you can turn the fan off at the fan itself, and leave the top up..... or maybe it was only on the remote..... sorry for mucking this up....you'll see what I mean when you get yours installed. My issue is more with it closing automatically as soon as power is applied. I still think it is by far the best roof fan vent out there...... unless you are looking for just a large skylight and screen, then that is another story. As for the 12v, It's all rather easy..... 2 x 2 amp USB's and one standard 12v car socket..... I would switch the car socket possibly (at the socket), as that opening is pretty large. I would switch the usb's back at your control panel, as they most likely use power, even if not in use. Or run one large wire and one switch for the lot. Have this arrangement at the back, the mid section, and at the front and you will never be wanting for more! An added bonus would be to add one double USB to the outside, switched from inside, so you can charge your phone while it is playing your blue tooth speaker outside! I use a turtle..... what an amazing speaker...... portable, huge battery, rugged, and it sounds good. Cheers, Scott

[@matsf8268]

I put my maxxair on 10% out and manually close lid and then open up slightly manually, for a 24h round the clock ventilation

[@ecoworrier]

I'm less excited about the fan than I am about the map on the ceiling. What a great idea.

[@GregVirgoe]

The recessed lighting in the shadow gap is also a great idea.

[@bnessing]

This guy is a pro, some of the best homebuildt van I've seen so far

[@graham1366]

Welcome to the Maxxfan club, what colour lids are looking to install? Incidentally, I have 2 smokes. Looking forward to your electric schematic as it’s bloody work of art

[@przemek_kw]

Greg, please share with us your thoughts about truma combi heater after this time!

[@mrjceltic]

Great video Greg you have made my choice for a roof fan easy. Definitely going for a Maxfan. Cheers

[@GregVirgoe]

They are really good 👍🏼

[@craigieboy66]

I have 2 maxxfans fitted on my van can't fault them operationally. The only change I'd make is, I put a smoke one at the front and a white one over the bedroom thinking it wouldn't let in as much light. It does, no big deal I just bought the maxxfan blind for it. Great videos Greg, helped me a lot on my build.

[@gonefilming2020]

Hi Greg, a very interesting "look back" at your build and your upcoming changes. As always very detailed and thought through. Love it! Best regards to you two from Germany, Volker

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you very much

[@toronado455]

4:35 I thought for sure it would not clear the solar panel but magically it does! Great video!

[@JADuppyMan]

Great vid. I really appreciate the "things i could have done better/differently" upgrade type commentary from experienced builders/creators. Look forward to more insights.

[@katcankan7129]

More Greg videos 🤗💜 Yes from my van viewing Maxx fans are the best ones.

[@gkuk]

Hi Kat, We kind of like this type of work. Just sub to Greg 😺👍

[@katcankan7129]

@@gkuk lndeed we do Glen. Greg is great you will not be disappointed 😊

[@onemanandhiswhippet]

Nice one Greg not a lot to change 👍 see you at the Boondockers 👍🍟😀🐾❤️🍺

[@GregVirgoe]

One Man and His Whippet we got some tech to add too but saving that for another video. Looking forward to that 😊👍🏼

[@onemanandhiswhippet]

Greg Virgoe 👍

[@Woodyt]

Greg, just so you know they do make a good for the fan you have on the van. I have a fantastic fan in my trailer and I have a good on it so can run open all the time. I'm doing a van build right now and did put the Maxx fan in it, much nicer fan. Plus you can change the fan in the future without taking it off the roof like your doing now. You will love the Maxx air fan. Love all your videos.

[@russwalker675]

Nice work Greg and cant believe the difference in the sound of the fans! Certainly maximum efficiency using 12v is the way to go. Looking forward to the next vid

[@GregVirgoe]

Russ Walker they really are worlds apart on noise levels. Very excited to swap them out

[@maidelie]

Great info about charging devices directly from the leisure batteries. Thanks!

[@hongkong2017]

I just found your videos and just couldn't stop watching them over and over again. You're so skillful. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! I think I can only dream about converting one myself but only God knows when because it sounds easy DIY not until I watched yours video to realize so much efforts and skills are required. You are amazing!

[@brucefay5126]

Good choice, Greg. We replaced all of our FanTastic vent fans with Maxx-Fans. Like them a lot. Leave them open most of the time (when parked) unless running heat or air-conditioning. We tend to run ours between 30% and 60% speed unless they are automatically adjusting to a set temperature. I think they are actually sealed shut with the lid in the down position, but now that I’ve seen your video I will have to double check ours to be sure. :-) Really enjoying your videos, like your presentation style.

[@GregVirgoe]

That really interesting that you have gone through the same process, Bruce. Have you got any tips for removing the old fans and Sikaflex?

[@user-dp7wz4hv4c]

Greg, these are the best engineering videos all over the world, I have ever seen. The problem with phones is onle because the meander curve of the 220 volt current, not sinusoidal. You have to change inverter to "clear" sinusoidal inverter and it will be ok. Additionally, othe 220 volts equipment will work more gently. Regards, Michail. Moscow, Russia.

[@chrisneville7310]

Nice information Gregg and quality information as always👍. Even at the slowest setting your fans would drive me insane. I've built a few small factor gaming computers and it's amazing what you can do with the air flow and keeping the decibels down.

[@GregVirgoe]

chris neville the new ones are worlds apart. So much quieter. 😀

[@lilyfisher9804]

thanks greg , to me, having just brought my iveco 170 lwb and about to buy the gear needed for fit out i reckon you have just saved me heaps...being a newbie and having watched many videos on van conversion i had decided to get a lot of the work by trades people NOT NOW your manner in the way you teach in detail so that i can understand is exceptional and inspiring. you have given me the confidence to have a crack at most of it myself cheers and if you ever decide to come to new zealand let me know ..Id like to buy you a beer mate....ill even try not to be a smart arse if the conversation turns to rugby he he pete

[@GregVirgoe]

Thanks for great feedback. NZ is one of the places I would love to visit. Glad that the videos are helping and hope one day we can have that beer 🍻 cheers

[@freetasman2342]

Thank you for sharing with us your experience with your conversion. I have done mine 1 1/2 year ago and left many things in such a manner that I will be able to modify them after a good test by living on it. One thing that I am happy is with the simplicity of my electric installation, it is based on the Ctek 250 combination of a Dc to DC charger and a 20 amps MPPT controller. This system looks after the van and the house batteries and can have inputs from solar panels and wind generator as well. It is expandable up to 800 amps battery bank. In UK is sold by Rotronics.

[@duketheedam9908]

Thanks for all the great information Greg, on behalf of hundreds I suspect, the videos are inspirational to us all out there, see you on the road perhaps one day somewhere in Europe or beyond, keep safe mate.

[@jackfox5602]

A very good job of blowing the lid off of the "fantastic" fan with comparison to the Maxxair fan. I installed the Maxxair in our new Ford Transit van and love it. It is not the remote version since I think I can walk three feet to operate it. I learned something in this video that I didn't know (that you can run the fan with the hood closed) nice job Greg and Maxxair!

[@GregVirgoe]

UPDATE ON OPERATION OF THE MAXXFAN WHEN CLOSED - I have checked this and the manual described it like this as - CEILING FAN MODE - With the fan motor running, close the Vent Lid to enter Ceiling Fan Mode. The fan motor will continue to run and circulate air within the RV cabin. So, therefore, it is closed to the outside when shut down and just recirculating air within the van. That does make more sense now. Sorry for any confusion.

[@jackfox5602]

@@GregVirgoe Thank you for the clarification...I was getting a little edgy with the thought that I couldn't close off to the outside. The fan is so quiet and we love it.

[@toronado455]

@@GregVirgoe thanks though, in that mode there doesn't seem to be any way for air to flow above the fan the way an actual ceiling fan would.

[@jackfox5602]

@@toronado455 I just had to try it and it does circulate the air, of course not as much as with the lid open. Works in both directions.

[@justinlinnane8043]

Superb walkthrough video as always Greg I've been looking for an upgrade to my ancient inverter for a while so will check that one out . Useful tips about ordering from Amazon when abroad as well.

[@nealeburgess6756]

Those fans look great. I think I will investigate them. With regards to voltage. My caravan runs virtually everything from the 12 v system. Even the TV and the IPTV box are 12v. I have an 18v adapter for the laptop. Several USB chargers for phones and stuff. I only use the inverter for my printer, or maybe the electric drill. So that means very rarely. Keep up the good work. Your van looks really good.

[@johncrisp6683]

Thank you for making a video like this.

[@GregVirgoe]

I’m glad you liked it 👍🏼😊

[@DaveParsons]

Be careful with partial shading of your solar panels from the maxxfan. On your friend's van it looks like they're fairly close. With the fan up high and a low sun angle there could be some shading of the solar panel, which can greatly reduce the output.

[@francisboundy5170]

Another great video Greg. Couple of thoughts based on our experience with our recently converted van: We have Fiamma Turbo Vents which are quite a bit cheaper than either the MaxAir or Fantastic Fans. They are almost as quiet as the Max Air on their lowest setting and have a thermostat. Opening and closing is entirely manual but it we want ventilation when it’s raining we just crack them open half an inch and no rain can get in. I was also interested in your comments on mains power. We have found the same in summer: solar and charging from the alternator (particularly with a Lithium battery) means we don’t need mains. Winter was a different matter - we were in one place skiing for 4 nights so no alternator charging and not much solar meant we needed the mains. We also had a problem with noisy inverter power than interferes with our TV. Fixing it was as simple as uncoiling the TV power cable but I still mean to put a scope on the inverter output to see how “pure” the sine wave is. We use our 230v quite a bit - mainly for my espresso machine and my wife’s hairdryer!

[@GregKeen23]

Great video Greg ! Looking forward to seeing yours fitted 👍🏻

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you for your help with this video mate, really appreciate it. What do the girls think of their celebrity dad :D lol

[@erolhassan5346]

Greg, this is really interesting and useful information. Thank yo

[@LivingInAVan]

Great video! One of the nice things about building your own living space is that if you don't like something after living in it for a bit, you can simply change it. What sometimes looks good on paper or as an idea turns out to not work as expected in real life use. :) Fantastic video!

[@alutious]

My inverter has 2 USBs. I found they work when the inverter is off. I have been running them for over a year, 2 summers, charging my phone and tablet. Works great. I plan on using mains only for battery top up and long unsunny weather. All plug in battery charger manuals say charge without load, so I have a secondary battery system. Also I plan on alot of USB so I can upgrade devices easily.

[@GregVirgoe]

You can charge while there is a load, my mppt does that all the time. Charging when there is a load isn't actually putting power in and out of the battery - it's just putting less in, or taking a little out. If the load is less than the charging current, the battery will just charge slower, since most of the charger's current is being siphoned away by the load.

[@alutious]

@@GregVirgoe agreed, I will have mppts on the bus. I think the manuals are probably referring to fully charging or topping up? If they use volts, it's hard to apply their chosen rate of voltage? I expect most attach their chargers to the bus bars? Correct? I was thinking this could be a way of using shore power but I wasn't sure if I do do this. The other philosophy is now lithium shud only have 20-80% charge to maximize its life. Don't yhinkni will worry about that. I am curious how electricity travels with all these items attached to the bus. That part I don't understand.

[@NomaddUK]

Wow... Great comparison. When you flicked yours to top speed I expected your van to become airborne.

[@GregVirgoe]

Nomadd UK worlds first drone van 😂👍🏼

[@markmangan8586]

Very useful Greg 👍

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you

[@Pugwash.]

One of the things I liked most about my first build was the USB power sockets, so on my second van I put a lot more of them. It's interesting to hear you say the hook-up wasn't used too. I was considering putting one in mine, but only to charge the leisure batteries.

[@jiri4023]

I'd love to have a MaxxFan too, but it's too expensive to get it down here in Brazil. My solution instead is a regular 14 x 14 inch fan, like your old one with a Camco vent cover that costs 33 dollars on Amazon. Pros: it's cheap and it solves the rain problem. Cons: it blocks light and I guess you can't open the fan all the way. Note: It's all theoretical for me, still looking for a van and planning enthusiastically.

[@johnwilson1620]

Superb videos Greg, Should have cross bonded those seals maybe..

[@GregVirgoe]

What do you mean by cross bonded John?

[@johnwilson1620]

@@GregVirgoe so at the joints, you alternate the next layer reversing the joint so the joints are overlapping. Like tapestry

[@GregVirgoe]

@@johnwilson1620 yes overlapping like brickwork

[@alanmay1945]

Yes, those fans, that particular make. There is a video of this woman who dwells fulltime, so lives, in her RV in the US, and she installed a Fantastic fan and a MaxAir fan. She loathes the Fantastic one, and loves the MaxAir one, and this nice polite lady actually used swear words when she was talking on a Bob Wells video when she referred to how much she hated the Fantastic make fan. And then when I watched your video Greg on how you chose to install, at a big purchase price too, these Fantastic made ones, I wondered why as I recalled this womans video and her experience of them. The MaxAir one she considers is wonderful, so you have a good chance of these ones being the right ones. Love your videos Greg, on every subject you cover, thankyou! Alan, in Norfolk, (UK).

[@robertjohn819]

I Always enjoy your Vlogs a great balance between information , interest and entertainment, Thank you.

[@davidfarrell1062]

Like the MAXX Fans. The rain / closed and quietness really make them worth while. I like the comments on the 240v setup and reducing complexity. Its hard predict every requirement. Maybe in winter or less sunny climates the solar may do with a mains boost on the batteries..

[@gatolibero8329]

Good reflection!

[@brendaswann7292]

What I would do differently, I so appreciate this honesty. Still in my building stage, means I get to learn from your do-over. Thank you and I look forward to your switch outs and changes. All the best

[@Milner_THX]

Brilliant! Well done all your hard work Greg.. awesome inspiration! 🌎🚐💨

[@GregVirgoe]

Than you so much!

[@craftymulligar]

Going to get 1 or 2 when I get my van if I can good tips.

[@guidolyons4912]

Agreed, The MaxxAirFan is superior to the Fantastic Fan. My previous RV had the Fantastic Fan, can't have it open in the rain, while driving, etc. My new van has the MaxxAirFan. The MaxxAirFanMuch is quieter, has more speeds, can be thermostaically controlled, and can be open in the rain. My one gripe about MaxxAirFan is the remote only works when I'm standing right there under the fan, otherwise the remote can't hit the IR sensor.

[@GregVirgoe]

Guido Lyons that’s great you can verify how good they are thank you. I imagine you need line of sight like most remotes and it would depend how deeply it is recessed. 😀

[@JohnlynHD]

Thanks Greg, interestingly enough I've been looking out for an UK or European distributor of your original fans with a view to purchasing, I'm glad I didn't find one. Looking forward to the new videos.

[@GregVirgoe]

I will be adding a pinned comment to my last video with links to these ones, so as not to point people in the wrong direction.

[@JohnlynHD]

@@GregVirgoe Thanks always enjoy the videos

[@kevgermany]

Looking at this again as I do my build. First thing that strikes me is how little you want to change. So you got most of it right. Credit to our thought and planning. Something I found that may help others. Victron have a product called easy solar. Comes in different power ratings. Combines MPPT solar controller, mains to van, full sine wave inverter/charger and even has a trickle feed for the vehicle battery. This does everything you decide including an auto switch over from battery to mains and back. It also boosts the mains feed from the batteries if the supply is weak. And includes the necessary RCDs etc. One nice feature of the inverter is that it can be always on, has a standby mode that uses almost no current. It does need a load of 100W to turn on, though so using the mains to charge a phone or two won't work. But your switch (pun intended) to a battery 12V ring for the USB ports fixes that. I was worried about repairs, but inside are the standard Victron units, pre wired. So if something does go bang - or needs to be upgraded, you can switch the failed part out.

[@GregVirgoe]

kevgermany that sounds good I’m just looking it up

[@GregVirgoe]

kevgermany it looks big and expensive 😊😢

[@kevgermany]

@@GregVirgoe I'll check. At least I'll have the peace of mind of good inverter.... ;-) (Learning from other's is a good move in my book)

[@kevgermany]

@@GregVirgoe OK, checked... I have a 24V/1600VA 230V model. Charges up to 40A at 24V. Size - about 75cm high x22cm wide x 12cm deep. So will easily fit in my van's garage. Can be installed horizontally as well, but vertical recommended for better cooling. Price comparison to nearest euro (all from the supplier I used in Germany, so in Euros) Easy Solar 1600VA - 1360 Inverter/charger 930 MPPT controller 296 So about 130-140 for the case, battery cables, battery temperature sensor cable 6 circuit breakers/RCDs all pre-wired. (Circuit breakers are input and output master plus 4 individual A outlet circuits) Pretty close call to me, especially as it saves a lot of hassle with assembling all the bits, finding a DB and so on. Yes you could do it a lot cheaper by using separate cheaper makes, but... For instance some of the cheap MPPT solar charge controllers are not MPPT. And cheap inverters....

[@GregVirgoe]

kevgermany even the not so cheap ones are rubbish as I found out. Not knocking it very good kit if you have the money to invest.

[@barbt1485]

Alyce Clark. i am looking at a Camping World flyer right now, The maxxair vent covers are 24.97, when i bought them they were $49.95, better price now. They are covers especially made to cover fans to keep the rain out while letting you keep your vents open to get air. they work very well. There is a Maxxair and Maxair II. The latest version have more vents in them to maximize airflow. I used the original models. I wouldn't have a vent without getting a vent cover.

[@stevethompson3849]

Darn it! Just installed 2 fantastic fans. Not wired up yet so I may have a fiddle and fit a PWM speed controller in place of the 3 position switch and see how noisy they are at 10% speed. Then see if I can put a limit switch on the lift motor so it opens half way and then see if I can fit a dome flange wide enough to keep rain out. Then after I’ve recovered from spending so much on 2 crappy fans and given them a go, I’ll replace them with Maxx ones once Greg shows me how to replace them!

[@martinjenkins6472]

Greg, check your leads! That Maplin lead you are using makes my iPhone act exactly the same from a house socket :)

[@jabbers62]

I have the same issue with usb sockets built into house sockets. Thought it was an iphone issue but if I connect via the cable to an adapter plug...no problem.

[@kevinhammond9864]

A ferrite block would probably solve the problem

[@moto_roaming2119]

Another excellent video Greg. I am so grateful that you have told us about these fans. How does the bathroom fan perform. Are the Louvre rattling about when you are driving? Thanks a million, looking forward to the new upcoming videos.

[@paulmartin1094]

Another interesting video,Greg,I think I've said before if your like most of with vans or motorhome,once you start using them as a home there's always things you want to change or install.Ive fitted USB sockets wired to leisure batteries,to charge phones/iPads and camera batteries,and 1500watt inverter to charge laptop and run microwave occasionally,and have bought 12v tv,sat system and most importantly coffee maker!I only run 2x 110AH batteries and 200 watts of solar,but usually park in Aires with EHU so I've got my power needs covered.Ive thought about more solar and lithium batteries,but can't justify the cost so far,and would probably get small generator if I need more ac power.I always think of my van as "work in progress"I bought it new 2 years ago,and after one night in it put another Seitz roof vent above the bed!and many other mods since then.My mot is just because you live in a van there's no need to live uncomfortably,with a few skills any things possible,except,maybe,a hot tube.Peace,love and safe travels,Paulo

[@banjo4829]

Had the Fantastic vent fans in a previous caravan, worked ok but only 3 speed and lowest speed was noisy, ended up making and fitting a speed controller to slow down. My new campervan conversion I'm currently working on, has 2 Maxxair deluxe, super quiet and 10 speed, can also be left open for travel. Plus remote control ! Far better product IMO.

[@darrenbullman9450]

appreciate your honesty and sharing it with us

[@VANESSASVANLIFEJOURNEY]

Great tips

[@sunnycampers4249]

👍 Nice one Greg. I remember you saying when we last caught up to go and look at Greg's maxair fans and that sold for us. Great tip on the 12v usb.(thanks Greg with the maxim fans too 😊) Cheers

[@rdickie3924]

Hi Greg, great choice of fan. Just wanted to let you know that if you find your Maxxfan rattles whilst driving you can email their customer services and they will send you an anti rattle kit FoC. Also love the vids 👍👍

[@GregVirgoe]

I will listen out for that, but I hope they now fit those as standard?

[@rdickie3924]

Not sure, it might not be an issue in most big American RV's. We got ours about 10 months ago so maybe they ship with them now. The kit is just a rubber seal that fits between the smoked cover and the white plastic that's holds the rear grill in place. All it does is stop the cover vibrating against it when it's closed. It's pretty easy to fit, took about 10 mins and as long as the unit is under warranty they will send it out free. Customer service was spot on took about a week to arrive from Kansas.

[@nmartin5551]

I knew of the MaxxAir vent fan from prior camping. That would be the only thing I was ahead of you (Greg) on my Sprinter plan!!

[@036101556]

Great video. Very informative about the maxfans. Regarding outlets I prefere 12volt outlets with cigarette lighter type usb plugs. Then you can fully disconnect ( even thou it's very little) any powerdraw from 12 volt. And if you don't like the changeover switch, inverter/charger combos (there are ones with solar input in the same unit also) is a nice option.

[@TomWatkeys]

Hey Greg Something I have wondered during your build series (which is incredible) is why you don't buy/build a DC-DC power supply for your laptop? Currently, to power your laptop you are going DC-AC-DC whereas with a DC-DC power supply (Laptops come in somewhere around 20v), you wouldn't be losing all that efficiency with the DC to AC (inverter) and then back to DC (current laptop power supply) Love the build - I think you have created a phenomenal resource for anyone interested in, or wanting to do their own build

[@GregVirgoe]

Tom Watkeys you are spot on! I need to find the time to exactly that and one for my 19v led tv would be great too. Have you got any links you can share with us?

[@oliverking9951]

As always, fantastic video with lots of useful information. The changes you've made to the electrics seem obvious with hindsight, but I'd probably have done the same as you with the initial install!

[@GregVirgoe]

Oliver King hindsight is a wonderful thing. But at least I can hopefully help a few others not make the same mistakes. 👍🏼😃

[@oliverking9951]

@@GregVirgoe for sure. Without question you've helped others (and will continue to do so!). Whenever there's a spare moment in the day I'm watching more of your videos - they're brilliant. A heartfelt thanks for taking the time and effort to produce them.

[@kokotxa]

this is absolutely brilliant. Exactly what I was thinking about now that you've lived in the Van for a bit. Thanks for this Greg!

[@davehigh6786]

Another great video. Greg, I may have an easy solution for your cell phone charging problem. You could charge a portable battery with your existing set up and once that battery is charged you can use it to charge your smart devices and you'll be able to use them while they charge. Because there is no smoother power source than a battery your smart devices should have a longer life span. You can charge the portable battery using 'dirty' power and it won't hurt it at all because it's just a 'dumb' battery. By way of an example, one such battery I have is an EC Technology Portable Charger Power Bank 22400mAh Ultra High Capacity External Battery pack. I'm not saying this battery pack is the best (in fact I'm quite sure it isn't), I'm only using it as an example. There are many such battery packs on the market in a wide range of sizes. I would suggest that you get a large one to keep in the van and maybe a smaller one to carry with you on excursions away from the van. They come in handy when your phone battery gets low. If you do decide to use a battery pack such as I've recommended consider buying one that uses a USB-C connector for it's own charging port. USB-C is much more user friendly as there is no upside down when plugging it in. You can do it in the dark and get it right every time. Also, a USB-C cable should charge your battery faster. Thanks so much for your amazing channel, it means a great deal to me.

[@ltdasilva93]

Your van has the most beautiful fit and finish available. Have you ever considered installing a recirculating system for the shower? I hear people use 2 gallons of continuous water with a filtration system. Mind you I think it would take up a lot of space but a good idea

[@DJRogEurotour]

Great update thanks Greg, looking forward to the next one.

[@JimsRobot]

Also check out the thule omnivent. It works closed, bi-directional, quiet etc. No remote afaik but I prefer manual switching because there's less to lose and no batteries to replace. It's also smaller than the maxx

[@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN]

Great vid Greg. Sounds to me from what you've said that 95% or more of the van worked fine for you both. Now that's a high score indeed, great planning!

[@michaell8835]

Cheers Greg, nice to see you making some changes and upgrades. I’ll be following closely, eagle eyed, to see what you’re up to 😛

[@tradersato]

You said the max fan works even when the vent top is closed. That’s all good but it also means that even when the top is fully closed, your van is not sealed from the outside air, humidity and odors..

[@JJ_Khailha]

It’s worth noting that some devices you may use in a van come with adapters where normal usage entails pluging into a domestic socket. In my van I use a 4G/Wifi router which takes a sim card and after checking the current amd voltage on the adapter, realised I could disregard the adapter and just wire it up to my 12v system. So it operates 24 hours per day and the invertor can reman off most of the time. If possible, plan your electrics so that you don’t need to run the inverter 24 hours a day.

[@nickbussey6971]

I'm glad I heard that Maxx fan make the whiney noise as it opened and closed, I was beginning to think my lift motor may be faulty.

[@marks-0-0]

It's funny isn't it Greg, your skylights looked great when you fitted them but compared to the MaxiAir fan they do look kinda budget! They are a great upgrade!

[@foresterp.l3502]

The now installed fans, work fine verticaly installed in caravan walls..against humidity when your not using the place.

[@brainwavesjustme3968]

I got a maxxair fan the lux. White top for steatty reason on my sprinter. All ready for a year. Love it. Thanks for the tips.🚐💨💨 Cherished my fan an i are happy campers. 👄

[@susannichols4372]

Before ditching your 30 amp I would recommend do some winter camping. I love having my shore power for electric heat in winter.

[@RyanPhallen]

Hey mate, I'm just converting my van now and have the same fan as your old one with the rain sensor. I wish I saw this vid sooner. You can disable the rain sensor by holding down the lid open button on the remote.

[@gkuk]

Hi Greg, Just subscribed love all this alteration work. It's interesting to see a job well done but must be frustrating to see something better after you spend all that time fitting. Them new fans look great. Looking forward to the upgrade. ATB Glen

[@barryneville4703]

I would be tempted to stick with the fans you have already got & disconnect the rain sensor. The Maxx fans aren't cheap at £369 each, and like you said in the comments, they will only circulate the air within the van while in the closed position. Also have you tried to remove silicone before? Even with the right remover, it is a nightmare! I would rig up a test piece to try out before you commit yourself. Also I would be tempted to leave the electric wiring exactly as it is, and just install a couple of additional 12v USB charging points from the leisure batteries. Otherwise you will have to swop out most of the mains wire for 12v.

[@AnomadAlaska]

Don't discount the switch from the house batteries, you've only been in the van during summer-ish conditions. The Maxxair rig is expensive, but does the job well. There are some home brew solutions floating around using a variable switch and a small radiator fan. I haven't built a van yet. But I like the idea of intake air from the floor and exhaust through the roof for maximum height clearance.

[@warty5007]

Brilliant can’t wait

[@stewartashling9893]

I drove around europe 3 dutch shepherds me and a small ford connect .now im prepared for anything I use to park up beside all the 250.000 vans .i cramped their style.

[@1spongeygit]

i admire your work ethic, i personally would modify the lids so they work when closed, just like the other one! goodluck anyway!

[@andykelly7367]

Greg, nice one mate! Quality yet again! 🙏 Andy Kelly uk

[@x86cowboy]

Very good! Look forward to the build improvement videos! :)

[@mange2]

Thats the fan ive got greg. Maxxaire fan. Its awesome mate. I have it extracting when cooking or window open and blowing in when window closed. Use when raining no probs.

[@GregVirgoe]

That's great Dave, good to know you are pleased with them too, so many positive comments for these fans it gives us great confidence that we are doing the right thing by swapping them out.

[@jeffreytreleaven66]

Are there proper bug screens in the max air and can they be removed for cleaning?

[@mazyondown7680]

Jeff - there is a bug screen built in and I believe it comes out for cleaning although havent installed mine yet so not sure on the cleaning. You can buy additional blinds for the max air fans, as black out blinds aren’t included. They’re an extra £60. We got one blind for our rear fan over the bed but figured we wouldn’t bother for the one at the front. They can be retrospectively fitted though so we’ll see how we go.

[@mange2]

@@jeffreytreleaven66 yes the bug screen is removable mate.

[@mr.nomadic]

Great vlog but I'm wandering will those new fittings going into the camper 😁 will it take longer than half an hour 😁

[@dcurleyifa]

Hi Greg, Forgive me but should you try a winter in the van before you loose the switching for hook up and solar, I would be concerned that in this country as applied to your recent European trip, you may find the winter light weak. Just a thought. I have a maxxfan fitted in my van and it is the dogs gonads, very quite even when you are sat under it reading at 40% which is enough to keep the van comfortable when it is warm outside

[@nickvine8754]

Hi Greg, I enjoy your videos and have got some great ideas from them, I am just starting my own conversion and I'm interested in your electrical comments about the 230 sockets and a schematic of it ? cheers...Nick

[@jamesthomas4468]

Are there any videos from your friend with the max air fans? I like the look of his solar panels, looks like he’s got a good tilting system!

[@immortalsofar5314]

When you're working your DC supply, step-up/down PCBs are dirt cheap nowadays so you might want to consider ditching all of your transformers in favour of selectable DC voltage.

[@GregVirgoe]

Immortal SoFar yes that’s a very good suggestion. I have used those boards to reduce the supply to my LED lights to make them dimmer and save electric.

[@immortalsofar5314]

Yeah, I got half a dozen up and the same down with a varister for setting the voltage and my voltmeter to see if I'd got it right. I ran the 12V to a bus bar with screw-in attachments and put the boards close to the devices. The most difficult part was finding the right jacks. You can also connect them in parallel for higher amps, although not too high I'm afraid.

[@eddvanlife7396]

Looking forward to the upgrade vids

[@eeedelli]

Very informative, as ever, Greg. An interesting conundrum, though... If the Maxx fan is still free to move air when it's down, what's the point of being able to raise it (or is it just a way of the manufacturers being able to put extra mechanisms in that bring them more profit ;-) )? I suppose the airflow would be a bit less impeded but is it really *that* much different between raised and lowered with that angled matrix at the back? Also, if it's permanently open to the air, when you're not occupying the van in cold weather and, therefore, not generating much moisture from breathing, if you have low heating on to keep things warm and dry (I run a little mains heater on a frost stat at home during winter), surely you're then losing loads of heat straight out through the permanently open vents? Is there a shutter on the inside that you can pull across to seal it off completely when you actually want to do that? If not, you might want to think of making something to plug the hole for such circumstances.

[@mazyondown7680]

David Ellis you can get blackout blinds for the max fans at an addition £60 (which is pretty steep!) that would do the job. We only got one blind for the fan over the bed and haven’t bothered with a blind for the fan at the front. Now thinking about it, if it’s also going to mean we can use the blinds to ‘plug the gap’ as it were, think I might fork out for another blind for the front. We’re still under construction so thanks for pointing this out 👍

[@GregVirgoe]

UPDATE ON OPERATION OF THE MAXXFAN WHEN CLOSED - I have checked this and the manual described it like this as - CEILING FAN MODE - With the fan motor running, close the Vent Lid to enter Ceiling Fan Mode. The fan motor will continue to run and circulate air within the RV cabin. So, therefore, it is closed to the outside when shut down and just recirculating air within the van. That does make more sense now. Sorry for any confusion.

[@eeedelli]

@@GregVirgoe Ah, right! That would make more sense. It also suggests that there must be some way of getting air from the interior to the area above the blades, otherwise they're just going to rotate but not really able to shift any air (a bit like cutting a hole in one side of a sealed box and inserting a fan there). Given your background, I'm sure you'll be straight on to that anyway. I should imagine it only needs to allow for a small cfm value when operating in that mode. Perhaps it draws it through those slots around the edge of the recessed part but it's not easy to tell just by looking at it remotely.

[@JayGee6996]

The 12v usb socket you have there doesn’t look like it’s up to much Greg. I’d seriously consider buying a panel mount 12v female cigarette socket and then buy a dedicated 12v to USB adapter that you’d plug in to your car (loads on amazon that are cheap and very compact), that way you will get the full 2-2.4a rapid charge capability. The only you have looks like it wouldn’t struggle to charge at a decent rate