✅ Grinding Wheels on your Shopsmith? SURE! (But with the right equipment)

[@jamespowell9757]

Another GREAT video! Thanks Scott. I can't seem to find my owner's manual for an explanation, but a warning label on the type 2 version says to use hard grinding wheel in DOWNWARD direction at maximum speed of 3450 rpm and the soft honing wheel in the UPWARD direction at a maximum speed of 1750 rpm. Upward or downward grinding is determined by the position of the guard tool rest vs spark arrestor. By rotating the guard clockwise from where you showed it in the video, Honing with upward rotation of the wheel is performed from the back of the Shopsmith mark V. Rotating the entire guard counter clockwise ( the direction of rotation of the arbor on the Shopsmith mark V) back to the front of the machine places the tool rest for downward grinding. It would be easier for you to demonstrate this, rather than describe it. Why is the speed different for the hard wheel for grinding as opposed to the soft wheel for honing? I purchased the grinding wheel YEARS ago, but never used it much for fears of the sparks causing fire in my basement shop. I covered the way tubes with a piece of plywood or cardboard, but still I am paranoid about sparks. I exclusively do my grinding with a dedicated grinding wheel that I simply pick up and use in my driveway- far away from the cars, gas cans, etc. Actually, I use the wire wheel more to clean up rusty tools, but occasionally sharpen chisels on the grindstone. My preference inside however, is a hand driven grinder which I manually turn at such a low speed that sparks don't occur and I never overheat the metal. (It does take a longer time to get the work done). Interestingly, the grinding wheels Shopsmith sold fit the hand grinder! Also, recently Shopsmith had a sale where the listed 2 different grinding wheel arbors with different part numbers, so it seems they don't strongly recommend one over the other. Because of possible explosion of the wheel, the warning signs on most grinding wheels advise against grinding with the flat side of the wheel which I what a lot of users do to flatten the back of a chisel. Your word of caution about using old stones is good advice. Thanks again for all the great videos. jim

[@MyGrowthRings]

So many great points in one post, Jim! Your comment is getting pinned and everyone using the SS GWG should read this post. Yes, I'm going to show the differences between using the GWG with the stone running up and down in a follow-up video. As for the speed difference, I suspect that SS's engineers made that recommendation more as a tip for sharpening vs grinding. I'm not aware that the made two different arbors, so I'll have to look into that. You are also right about the warning about not using the sides of the stone for grinding, though we've all done it. Thanks for the excellent input! Scott

[@haujeancontactee]

That's a sweet grinder. I love mine and it saves a lot of space.

[@gjacobson76]

I bought 2 Shopsmiths used, a 500 and a 510. They are great and do everything I need. There are great deals out there if you're patient. I got almost every attachment plus a power station and a dust collector.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Excellent! Now, go make some sawdust!

[@danfarris3415]

Shopsmith had a sale a couple of months ago for some parts for the Grinding Wheel Guard II. I bit and got the guard, two tool rests, shield and shield hinge. I had to make the cover and shield bar plus gather up bolts and nuts that would work. Assembled and runs great with my existing grinding wheels and arbor. No warning labels though.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Nice. I caught that sale and picked up an extra grinding wheel arbor. Glad it all came together for you. Scott

[@jamespierson4324]

Scott, another informative video. Even for those who prefer to use a stand-a-lone grinding method it is good to look at and understand the Shopsmith system as an option.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Thanks James. I agree.

[@johnhoshock9034]

Never thought I needed one of those. Now, after watching this I want one. Ya did it to me again. Thanks Scott! (lol) Seriously though, very informative and enjoyable video.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Thanks John, and sorry about that! Scott

[@sassafrasvalley1939]

A quickie about concentric grinding stones… even if the stone is made perfectly round and concentric with it’s center… it is possible that the wheel, spacer and the arbor have slop between them. In fact they most likely do as both have manufacturing tolerances. The direction of tolerance preference for the arbor is minus. For the bushing/spacer it is ID plus and OD minus. And the ID of the wheel also carries a preference for a plus tolerance. That is called a unilateral tolerance and is necessary to allow fit between the wheel, the bushing/spacer and the arbor to mate. Having that slop insures that, it is highly unlikely any stone will run exactly true when installed. A stone dresser is a must if you want a true stone. That also applies if you switch back and forth between stones, polishers, brushes, etc. When you put the stone back on… the slop will likely be in a different direction. If you’re only sharpening lawnmower blades it might not be significant… however if you are sharpening cutting tools it can ruin the edge! I’ve learned on my Tormek to put a mark on the side. It doesn’t have a bushing… when I reinstall the stone. I press the OD firmly against the arbor with my finger at the mark. This positions that area of the ID firmly against the arbor and recaptures any concentricity that was there in previous uses. It makes dressing quicker and saves me wear in those expensive water stones. Sorry for the dissertation… but, manufacturing quality is my thing.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Very excellent points, Dave. I decided not to go into those details in this video because it felt like I was running a bit long, but we’ll discuss this on the follow-up. Scott

[@markbeiser]

Yeah, I had to use some shim stock to get my 10" CBN wheel, and non Shopsmith arbor, to run true.

[@skyking7477]

I have a 50’s vintage greenie that came from my dad, with a couple different grit grinding wheels, plus the rubber-bonded wheel. I have no guard for the wheels, didn’t even know there was such a thing. Because I’ve never really understood the use and purpose of the rubber bonded wheel, I don’t use it. I hope you can comment on the rubber wheel in the Q&A session. Thanks so much Scott. Looking forward to an update on your new shop!

[@MyGrowthRings]

I sure will. In the mean time, be careful with the rubber bonded wheel as they are quite old and may have become unstable. Scott

[@drumaganger]

Fantastic topic. I have seen some of those parts in my Grey Box of stuff that came with my Shopsmith. However, I don’t have a grinding wheel. What is in the box is a “Powerstrop® and a buffing wheel. I have no idea what the previous owner used them for but he was a cabinet maker who took his Shopsmith on site to do the builds. I wonder if a 6” CBN Grinding Wheel will work on this. That’s what we use to sharpen the Lathe Tools at the shop where I go for wood classes.

[@MyGrowthRings]

I believe you’ll find that a 6” wheel is just a bit too large.

[@GeoffreyBaker]

I always thought Shopsmith should create a larger grinder setup for wheels up to 8 or even 10 inches. They could have easily made a 10 inch grinding wheel and possibly even added a water bath setup! A larger, thicker wheel mounted to the spindle with a base clamping to the ways would have made a superb sharpening station.

[@MyGrowthRings]

I totally agree. And even with the mechanical Mark V’s low speed of 700 it’s 1000 rpm’s slower than most “low speed” grinders which tend to turn 1750. I think there are a couple reasons they chose the 5”, mostly driven by keeping the cost of the rubber-bonded (Caytex) wheels down. We’ll dig in to this a bit in the Q&A. Scott

[@benwhite3227]

I want a 10” wet bath setup, but need to figure out how to prevent the water spraying off the stone. 700 rpm is too fast for the water. The 10” Jet variable speed wet grinder runs around 70-110 rpm. I don’t have a speed reducer.

[@markbeiser]

If you use a CBN wheel, you don't need a guard. The challenge is finding an arbor long enough attach the CBN wheel with.

[@kjp4drums]

Another great video. I use my grinder all the time. I have restored vintage baby cribs and there is usually missing metal parts. Plus tool sharpening, fabricating with unistrut and metal framing. There’s always something to grind but I don’t have take up space with a stand alone grinder. One thing that I haven’t really figured out is which grinding wheel I should use for what job. Is that something that is explained in any of the Shopsmith publications?

[@MyGrowthRings]

That's a good question and I don't recall/ I'll see if I can find a reference to them in one of the PTWFE books. Scott

[@rexoliver7780]

Since the Shopsmith is variable speed--make sure while adjusting speeds that you don’t exceed the speed of the wheel as marked on its label! Exploding wheels is no joke-although the Shopsmith wheel guards appear sturdy enough to contain an exploding wheel. Just stay on the safe side!

[@arthilliker3721]

I "think" (which usually gets me in trouble) most grinding wheels are rated to run around 2500 rpm or even a little more ??

[@MyGrowthRings]

Word to the wise.

[@seanflanagan5674]

Well, that wasn't quite the grind I expected, and the discussion of the similarities between different arbors was … informative. (I feel comfortable making a decision whether or not to use a wheel on a moulder arbor.) Sadly, there were no sparks! I dearly hope that the Q&A will include discussion on the basics of first dressing; trueing; etc. (Would it be too far off-road to comment on cheap; off-center; off-plane; and out-of-balance wheels?)

[@MyGrowthRings]

Yep, I do expect that to happen. Thanks for watching and commenting, Sean. Scott

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great video Scott 👍 I have a grinding wheel that came with my 10ER. I have not used it for 30 plus years. I am not sure if grinding stones have an age limit. I would not want that thing to blow up. 😒

[@MyGrowthRings]

As long as they aren’t the rubber bonded type you would be good.

[@daleclementson8761]

I made one from a plan I think it was in an on hands magazine. You make due with what you have when first starting out.

[@MyGrowthRings]

And some of us even beyond that!

[@daleclementson8761]

@@MyGrowthRings I couldn't figure out how to add a photograph to the comments. So it's on the FB page.

[@MyGrowthRings]

@@daleclementson8761 Yeah, that’s one of the things that KZbin doesn’t allow. Thanks for sharing it on the MGR page! Scott

[@danyoungs4061]

I wish shop smith would make a 2x72 sander / grinder

[@MyGrowthRings]

That would be nice.

[@Pascalore]

Just a thought, the wing nuts on the top and bottom guards are located towards the machine putting them in a less than handy tightening location as well as the top wing nut seems to be in the way of the arm when adjusting the clear safety shield. Is there any reason you couldn't assemble the bolts/wing nuts with the wings out? It would make them much easier to adjust as well as no longer being in the way of the shield arm.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Nope, you can position them whichever way works best for you.

[@bobwebberkc]

You can use it in reverse on a mark 7 as well. Thanks Scott

[@MyGrowthRings]

Correct. With the PowerPro headstock and on the reversible Crafters Station and the 1970’ Mark VII as well.

[@arthilliker3721]

@@MyGrowthRings would it be dangerous to run it backwards because of possibly loosening the grinding wheel arbor nut ?? (just a thought)

[@MyGrowthRings]

@@arthilliker3721 That’s a very astute question. Thanks to the tongued washer, as long as it is properly installed it should be safe in reverse. Scott

[@arthilliker3721]

@@MyGrowthRings I'd feel safer if it was a lock nut with a plastic insert. Not a fan of things flying through the air at 1000 rpm or more ...LOL !! Maybe could find one at Lowes or on line ?? WITH the tongued washer of course !! Call me Chicken ,,,, LOL !! But then, it is pretty well contained ...

[@MyGrowthRings]

@@arthilliker3721 It’s the way all shaper cutters are retained on shapers, but I get your hesitance.

[@GregulatorOG]

Can you explain your feelings about using the lathe tool rest a little more?

[@MyGrowthRings]

That’s a great question, and by “a little more“ I think you mean at all! I didn’t realize until I did the edit that I forgot to finish that thought. Yes, we will talk about that. Scott

[@sandysmeltzer2975]

I have the version one model, which came as part of a huge package I bought several years ago. I have used it a few times and am happy with its performance. I also got three different wheels, which gives me options. Here's my question: Could you use this grinder on the back side of the headstock when using the lathe as a means of honing the chisels as they get a bit dull? I know you made a small wheel to do that and did a video, so would this work as well? Thanks, Glen

[@MyGrowthRings]

Glen, unfortunately there's nothing to mount it on, on the left end of the headstock. It's one of the many reasons having a Shorty or a Power Station nearby can be a real lifesaver. Scott

[@sandysmeltzer2975]

@@MyGrowthRings Oops, I forgot about that little detail. Back to the drawing board.

[@thebeggarswoodshop8756]

"New wheel out of round." Yeah, it happens. Part of what I don't like is that: out of round. I know that fine tuning a grinding wheel is part of what you do on a grinder. When you fine tune it and then take the arbor off the shopsmith, is it as fine tuned as you had it or is it out of round? Do you have a to readjust? Also great job bringing in the safety speech.

[@MyGrowthRings]

I know it can be hard to stomach, but the ideal thing is to dedicate an arbor to a stone. As soon as you remove the stone and reinstall it, it’ll be out of round again. It’s mostly about the tolerances between the arbor and the bore in the stone.

[@thebeggarswoodshop8756]

@@MyGrowthRings I'll clarify, I was referring to removing the arbor from headstock with the stone

[@MyGrowthRings]

@@thebeggarswoodshop8756 Got ya. They might need a light dressing-up, but nothing like removing the stone from the arbor.

[@TheGrantAlexander]

I wonder what crimes those sparks committed to need to be attested😂

[@MyGrowthRings]

#WellPlayed #DadJoke #GrinderHumor

[@RobertKeeney]

Is there any advantage over a standalone grinder? Other than the obvious variable speed and small size.

[@MyGrowthRings]

I think it’s really depends upon how much you think you’ll use it and how it will be used. If it is primarily used for sharpening while turning, a stand alone grinder or one of these on a Shorty, PowerStation or Crafter’s Station will be the ideal arrangement. If you only use it to shapers lawn mower blades or axes or knives or bench chisels I think these are just the ticket for a Shopsmith user. Scott

[@RobertKeeney]

@@MyGrowthRings It doesn't seem very useful to me.

[@danasmith8950]

My thought exactly. I don’t see the value over a stand alone grinder.

[@RobertKeeney]

@@danasmith8950 There is not much difference cost-wise and you get an inferior grinder that can't use most of the jigs and accessories that a bench grinder can use. Variable speed is not much of an advantage because you can buy variable speed bench grinders. The only advantage I can see that the Shopsmith grinder attachment has is its small since, If I need to mount it on a power stand so I can use it while I am turning the small size advantage is overshadowed by the power stand and having to move the tool that was on the power stand somewhere else. I don't see why anyone would buy one considering the price that they sell for used on eBay

[@willimanfreeman23]

Ok so can any grading wheel work or buffer. Does it need to be a shopsmither one.

[@MyGrowthRings]

It’ll work with any grinding wheel or buffing wheel as long as they are 5” or smaller. They don’t have to be a Shopsmith wheel

[@drumaganger]

BTW, What speed do you crank for grinding?

[@MyGrowthRings]

It depends upon the size and grit of the wheel, but the rubber bonded wheels that Shopsmith sold have a max RPM of 3200/3500. They were being a little conservative as a 5” wheel can normally be spun well into the 4000’s. Scott

[@bradgriffith8297]

Does the grinding wheel still exist? I’m not seeing it on the Shopsmith website?

[@MyGrowthRings]

They are no longer being produced but you can find them quite frequently on eBay. I link to some in the video description above. Scott

[@philipallard8026]

Would you care to comment on the value of a variable speed grinder? Run it slow to keep things cool. Run it fast to take metal faster.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Absolutely right! How did I not mention that? Scott

[@toddharshbarger8616]

Does shopsmith still sell these?

[@MyGrowthRings]

Not currently, Todd. There are a number of tools that they bring back in small runs, so perhaps it could happen, but for now you’ll have to keep an eye out on the used market. Scott

[@toddharshbarger8616]

@@MyGrowthRings i have pdf plans for a DYI guard, but would be alot better out of metal!

[@toddharshbarger8616]

I think i just ordered this guard from SS in a piecemeal fashion but was on their clearout special. We will see what arrives

[@merlin750]

If you have time, please read my post on your belt sander video. I have a problem that I need your input on. thank you.

[@MyGrowthRings]

Done. Did you see my reply? Scott

[@merlin750]

@@MyGrowthRings I have a metal lathe and machined the crown out of the drive drum. Replacing the cover on the drive drum is a pain in the ...

[@merlin750]

@@MyGrowthRings Yes thank you. Machined the crown out of the drive drum.

[@ericneering6357]

It’s all fine and Danny but that’s way too much screwing around to use a grinder I’ll use my stationary grinder be way faster

[@MyGrowthRings]

You do realize that all that all the fooling around was explaining how it works. I can install it and be up and running in about 15 seconds. But if you have a bench grinder isn’t it a mute point?

[@sincerelyyours7538]

@@MyGrowthRings Moot point. Nice one, though!