Growing Figs from Cuttings: How to Master the Art of Rooting Fig Cuttings

[@gladstone1969]

My success with this method and fig pops went up DRAMATICALLY when I: 1. Scrubbed cuttings with dawn dishsoap with a toothbrush, soaked in 1:9 mixture (volume) Bleach:Water with 1 drop of dawn dishsoap (as a wetting agent) for 20 to 30 minutes. This doesn’t harm anything one bit and is used as a method in the lab to clean plant tissue before tissue culture. Then dried (no rinsing) 24 hrs at room temperature in some paper towels before cold (37F) storage in two layers of plastic as Ross describes. If you ever see condensation in the storage bags (you should check) dry them again. 3. Parafilmed top of cuttings. Cut/Scored the bottom of nodes to the light green (barely see white). I also slice off any buds or nodes that will be under the soil and treat them with clonex as below. 3.5 (Optional) I soak the cuttings in a mixture of 1 TBS Captan fungicide in 1L of tap water for 1-3 hours. This prevents mold under the parafilm and anywhere else on the cutting. I also use a gloved finger to rub a light layer of the Captan powder over cut surfaces prior to adding clonex as below. 4. Paint (with a paintbrush) on a VERY LIGHT amount of clonex - just enough to dampen surface - over cut surfaces below soil and around each node. Too much will inhibit bud break. 5. Used DRY Promix (HP or HP/BX) moistened with a ratio of 1:9 to 1:10 (You read that right - this is MORE than enough water when everything is wrapped with plastic for 4-6 weeks of rooting) of tap water with 1/4 strength indoor MG to dry Promix by volume. You should not be able to squeeze out ANY water. Period. This eliminated all rot issues and rooting occurs much faster with strong healthy roots (3-4 weeks) . The 1:5 to 1:6 ratio of dry soil to water had much more rotting issues. The 1/4 strength indoor MG also helps root strength significantly. 6. NO extra heat (70F - 72F). I lay the plants sideways for the first 3-4 weeks. If I see growth they get put upright under lights. These treatments seem to coordinate the timing of leaves and roots much more closely (within a few days in figpops). 7. After 4-5 weeks I remove the plastic. (Not for figpops. I have a different technique for figpops). I check moisture level and water when needed - watering lightly from the bottom by standing in 1-2 inches of water (and if the top is very dry I will add some from the top.) When plants have 4-5 good leaves plants are much less sensitive to overwatering. 7. Plants that haven’t leafed out or don’t have swollen buds by week 4-5 will be moved to heat (79-84F) sideways until growth is seen. Often this stimulates them to start growing after 3-4 more weeks.

[@RossRaddi]

Those are some great tips.

[@Johnnysaintrizz]

I scored the bottom- dipped in honey and cinnamon and planted- 90% have leaves in 3 weeks

[@thenotoriousfig]

Set it and forget it! I didn't come up with it. After losing lots of $$$ last year on cuttings, I settled on this method which simplified everything for me. Yes, there's lots of ways to root, but this method reduces so many variables and there's no transplant issues. I'm looking forward to your new greenhouse adventures.

[@RossRaddi]

Where did you hear about it?

[@thenotoriousfig]

@@RossRaddi MJFigs posted a comment on Ourfigs a few months ago. AscPete re-posted a really old post today.

[@rodneymatthews1891]

I like your old Italian way better. I am a lazy fig grower as I have 3 jobs as well as a wife and kids. I land just in between and fill a large pot with a bag of mushroom compost and stick the cutting in the middle and water well. I have only ever had one fail with this method. I also live in an ideal Fig climate in Sydney Australia where our winter is very mild. We didn’t even get a single frost this past winter.

[@margaretmarshall3645]

Good job giving the shout out to Notorious Fig! I’ve lately been converted to his tree-pot-in-a-bag method too. (I use 12x18” ziplock bags from Amazon and cut off the ziplock closure, zip tying them around the cutting above soil level instead.) I was struggling with fungus gnats despite regular use of Gnatrol, but this method keeps them away from the roots until the trees are well established and ready to go outdoors or be planted.

[@Lewisiaable]

I’ve always had a 100% Success by just putting the cuttings in water.

[@youngbuck5009]

I took a combination of your advice and what was easy for me in regards to early indoor rooting: large solo cups, ocean forest potting soil (sterilized), rice hull mulch. I use rooting hormone and parafilm on the cuttings. Led shop lights in a utility closet 68-72° 40-50% humidity. 75-95% success rate since 2020.

[@TheRealHonestInquiry]

If you're taking the time to sterilize ocean forest (the microbiology and organics are part of the reason it's so expensive) then IMO you are better off spending less and just buying a 5kg brick of coco coir which is already sterile. As long as the container has drainage holes the coco is impossible to overwater. The rice hulls are cool though fungus gnats could probably still get through, just make sure you're buying the parboiled rice hulls otherwise they will sprout and their roots are really hard to pull up if you forget about them!

[@SteveTracewell]

Love your videos! I am going to try your method this year. I have done some successful fig air layers, but have not tried dormant cuttings in the winter. I have no greenhouse or grow lights. I noticed that you kept your cuttings in a plastic bag in the crisper drawer of your fridge. I’m planning on doing this, and going to start rooting toward the beginning of March. That way I can move them outside when they start developing leaves. I just wondered if the rooting success rate goes down with storage. Some cuttings can be very expensive and I don’t want to lose any.

[@peternotarstefano528]

What type of soil are in the rooting pots? What is the right temperature to store them?

[@yvetterodriguez102]

Loved this! Nice green house!!!!

[@DGPHolyHandgrenade]

So, I tried this the first time, however my temps are a bit high. I'm in AZ, we've already seen 95-97F but otherwise mostly in the 80's and dropping into the 60's at night in the past week since I planted my cuttings in the treepots. One thing to note for others, wrapping the cutting above the soil in parafilm has created a bunch of root bumps on most of the cuttings in the past week (planted on Friday, it's the Thursday after). I've been told if this starts happening to remove the parafilm. The soil itself was pre-moistened in the bag and after about 2 days I added exactly 1oz of water to each of the cuttings I'm attempting to grow. Relatively high temps but low ambient humidity (below 10%) I figured any attempt to keep moisture in would be beneficial. But a week in and I'm already having to scale back on the humidity trapping.

[@katedalzell8007]

I’m in Chester County, growing my first figs. I’ve got Chicago Hardy and Celeste. Starting out cautiously optimistic. So much to learn.

[@dajones62]

Great video! Is there a follow up video to see your progress?

[@steveng6269]

I am really enjoying and learning tons from your channel. Thanks so much for a great job. I am just beginning an obsession with figs and preparing for rooting here in Annapolis. I can not seem to find your follow up to this video and am wondering when you take the cuttings out of the bags and start manual watering? In this video you say it takes about 4 weeks and in others the range is 4-8 weeks. But about how long in the bag?

[@RossRaddi]

Once you start to see new strong growth, the bag comes off.

[@adzadz1007]

Ross where's the update how the figs pots in bags did they root ?

[@bloosomcherry2397]

this looks pretty awesome i cant wait to see result i will just try this by myself omg this video is so amazing amd genuime

[@royerfigs]

I rooted 200 cuttings this year in an unusual weird way.. One thing us figers can say is we are always looking for new or better ways to root.. Great vid Ross!

[@ticktock2383]

Please share your method

[@adzadz1007]

Ross can you dip your fig cuttings in Mycorrhizae powder and rooting powder together ? I'm just wondering whether I should add it to my cutting medium mix ? could you tell me the best way to use and when to apply Mycorrhizae thanks Adam 🇦🇺 Queensland

[@C3Voyage]

Twist ties lightly around the cutting saves the rubber band, right? That's what I use for tomato grafted scions. Could you just spray the cuttings once every day instead of wrapping with parafilm? Heat mat? Heat mat temp?

[@TheRealHonestInquiry]

For rooting figs I believe 72-74F is probably ideal soil temperature, anywhere close to that you should be good though.

[@mgfons]

Thanks, great video. I have been doing a modified fig-pop method, using roughly 70% pumice, 30% Pro-mix BX for the soil mix. Then I simply stick in the cutting, and fold over the top of the bag, which creates like a little humidity dome inside the fig pop bag, so there is no need to wrap the cuttings in parafilm. Also, it keeps out fruit flies. Then, when roots start to appear, which is usually after around 3-4 weeks, I unfold the top of the fig pop bag. Also, I don't use any rubber bands around the bags either. Just fold the top of the bag over. It is the least amount of time and work, plus gets the best results of the methods I have tried.

[@RossRaddi]

Very nice. I've been doing exactly that on about half of the cuttings I've rooted thus far. Good to know it's working out.

[@mgfons]

@@RossRaddi Also, my recent addition of the Pro-mix BX to the soil mix seems to improve the results significantly. I got the idea from Notorious Fig's videos. I think it is the mycorrhizae in Pro-mix BX that is making the difference. The roots are thicker and whiter than my previous mix, which was pumice and peat moss, but didn't have any mycorrhizae.

[@DaBuDaSak]

Would this method be easier then the zip lock bag method? I can't seem to root cuttings to save my life.

[@Big_Mike_1116]

This is my first year rooting fig cuttings and I'm doing something very similar to this. instead of tree pots though, I'm using 32 ounce deli cups (like the kind for soup) with the same parafilm and bag tied with a rubber band style. makes me feel better to see the roots are growing I think for my first time trying this. they are in 1020 trays on heat mats set for 82 degrees and I used gnatrol treated water with promix HP BioFungicide + Mycorrhizae. I'm at the 3 week mark and of the 23 cuttings I'm trying to grow 12 show signs of life so far (buds, leaves, roots or some combination of those).

[@RossRaddi]

Thanks for sharing man.

[@GardenerEarthGuy]

I use Grodan Grow Cubes cruton size, and peat moss in 3 gallon pots. They are easy to transplant because the roots grab the rockwool and it becomes soild. I'm Florida Panhandle along the beach so winter can be 85 and dry followed a frost- it's hard to keep things perfect. CloneX is great stuff, I used KLN for years, but about 10 years ago something changed in it and it wasn't as good. Best of luck with your scene for the coming year.

[@RossRaddi]

Thanks for sharing!

[@BattleAx342]

All my fig trees made it through the winter. Leaves are starting to grow. I thought a couple weren't going to make it...

[@dddev641]

Do you use soil or coir ?

[@itsvinoth4u]

With this method, 1. How to know the cuttings have rooted or not ? 2. When should the parafilm be removed ?

[@RossRaddi]

Based on the top growth. If it starts to harden, you know it's going well.

[@itsvinoth4u]

Thank you

[@keithberry366]

Great video. New to propagating fig cuttings. I ordered cuttings from figbid Nov 23 and wonder how soon after receiving them should I pot them? Do I need to wait until Spring or can I pot them after they have calloused? Thanks.

[@TheRealHonestInquiry]

Depends on where you are and if you have space to grow them in a warm enough environment. I'm in California, my potted figs outside are fine, some dormant, if they were in the ground they would probably never go dormant, but as for cuttings I'm rooting them ASAP under an LED shop light and heat mats indoors (I block the vent in my room to keep humidity levels higher so that's why the heat mats). My previous batch took about 24 days to leaf out, so with this warm winter (now Jan. 13) they'll be perfect size by spring and ready to pot up.

[@pangea1967]

THANKS 👍

[@lindaberri593]

Nice green house ❤

[@RossRaddi]

Thank you 😊

[@cmt6136]

Naturally a fig cutting usually spends 4-6 months to grow up strong. this is only my experience. You can see my baby fig trees on my channel. One node cuttings may succeed in rooting, just more or less. I don't usually score fig cuttings to make them root. I don't warp them up with parafilm.

[@RossRaddi]

Thanks for sharing!

[@victoriaroberts7837]

Why para film the cutting above the soil line?

[@susanedelman8937]

Keeps it from drying out. Just don't parafilm it below or right at the soil line. The cutting may rot. It needs some exposure to air.

[@Moonlight76876]

I love the greenhouse, I hope it's your 😃

[@thebarcadas7850]

Where do you get your tree pots?

[@RossRaddi]

Greenhousemegastore.

[@lindaberri593]

I used fig pop method and at the beginning it was growing but after up potted it it died

[@aperson1181]

Do you have to use a hormone? Is the success lower without the hormone?

[@RossRaddi]

It's optional. I do think it improves your success.

[@TheRealHonestInquiry]

That would be the Clonex he mentioned in the video.

[@lindaberri593]

Every time I up pot my fig cuttings it dies if I have coco coir and perlite in a fig pop when up potting do I have to take of the medium around the roots ?

[@RossRaddi]

The medium should come with the roots. Sounds like you're up potting too soon. I wouldn't do that OR do a different method like I'm mentioning here.

[@Johnnysaintrizz]

How do you know when cuttings have rooted?

[@TheRealHonestInquiry]

A gentle nudge or tug on the cutting, if it has no roots it will be loose and you can twist it. When they root you won't be able to twist it also they will soon start leafing out. Alternatively just use a clear plastic bag or cup or the lay it on moist sand method and you will be able to see the roots.

[@capcats]

A roll of produce bags for $350? Did I hear correct?

[@RossRaddi]

My mistake. It's 350 bags for around $10

[@rauljimenez8132]

You can get some extra ones when shopping.

[@ivindmartinsen3949]

Why you have to wrap the cutting above the soil?

[@kqdwills]

The cuttings have no roots, unlike a plant. So they can't take much water to keep the cells alive. Plants which are exposing to the environment will be losing water to the air surrounding. With time pass by, it's only getting worse, so they wrap the branches to avoid they getting dried and died.

[@joshadair4744]

I wish people wouldn’t recommend this method I tried it after seeing notorious figs success and it made me loose a lot of my cuttings this year cause it causes a stale environment when it’s sealed off from the bag and can’t breath and what’s happening is it creates mold around cutting at the soil level and then rot occurs I lost many this year when in prior years the most I may loose is 1 or two from reasons not of my doing but the bag method around tree pots caused me so many issues this year and lost a lot that I did not want to loose

[@joshadair4744]

It does hold moisture in good but even when you start off with very little moisture your soil end up wet at the top from all the humidity created inside the bag

[@RossRaddi]

Josh, how is this method any different than the fig pop method which people are seeing great success with?

[@RossRaddi]

In both methods the bags are sealed.

[@joshadair4744]

Fig pop method is typically, from what I’ve seen , using a medium like perlite or vermiculite mixed with a small amount of peat or soilless mix with tree pots I myself use a promix for cuttings which is heavy in peat the bag traps in moisture and creates a lot of humidity when using supplemental bottom heat and makes the top of the soil very wet and creates mold around cutting I have lost a couple and pulled cutting to see what happened exactly and it rotted around the soil level but down below the soil the cutting was not rotten only at soil level because of the heavy amount of humidity and moisture it created at the soil level . As far as fig pop I have never used the method so I cannot say but for me bagging the tree pots was a huge failure

[@joshadair4744]

Don’t get me wrong everything about the method seems like a great idea I thought so as well and he has great success with it but in prior years I have lost maybe 1 or two max a year this year upwards of ten and the only thing that I did different was wrapped a bag around tree pots like this method and after two weeks I began to see mold starting to grow around each cutting inside the bags so I pulled the bags off all cuttings and was luckily able to save several of them but lost about ten so far and still have a few that haven’t done anything yet kind of just sitting

[@HigosRarosDelMundo]

Perfecto!

[@linencannon7678]

$350 for a single roll of produce bags sound like you got ripped off unless you're in a really wacky location

[@RossRaddi]

They're not anywhere near that price.

[@mattjaren7546]

Like #421! woo-hoo!

[@liligibson8457]

Did you water the soil before you plant the cutting?

[@RossRaddi]

Yes.

[@melbournebound5150]

I have Iraqi Figs in the philippines. They are consistantly fruiting. Will take cuttings at the 2 year mark.