The BEST Guide For FERTILIZING FIG CUTTINGS - Why, When And How To

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Are you rooting any figs this winter? Let us know in the Comments below!

[@666Necropsy]

whats growing on lol ?

[@JacobSimpson]

I wish but I'm not I'm probably just going to do a ton of air layers early spring. Hopefully some cuttings next winter

[@dougmac8904]

The Millennial Gardener I order fig seeds to plant. I have one mature tree I am going to clip some cutting also.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

@@666Necropsy too cheesy?

[@666Necropsy]

@@TheMillennialGardener i wasnt sure if thats what you said. it made me laugh.

[@huckfin1100]

New guy here, I started my very first fig tree from a cutting I got from a tree, and I'm using diy stinging nettle fertilizer that I make in a ragu jar, so far no problems I started my plant in June 25th 2023 it has eight healthy leaves so far, just wanted to share !

[@BnButterbBee]

Agreed, this is the best guide for fertilizing fig cuttings! Such a thorough guide! You did such a great job explaining and teaching. Very clear and concise. Especially helpful for someone like me who is new to figs and learning. Thank you!

[@joehamdache2087]

Thanks. I have recently became interested in fig trees, and your channel couldn’t of came at a better time. You break things down and explain them well.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I’m glad to hear the videos are helpful. Figs are so much fun!

[@dapperdingo]

Same here. My Chicago Hardy ''twigs'' now have a healthy first 1'' diameter leaf (with more opening up) on two of the ones that had bud tips when cut last fall from my nephew's plants. The lower cut sections of the ''twigs'' have a few nodes but no leaves or even buds yet. I can tell they are still alive though and won't give up on them. I had unfortunately planted them in black plastic quart sized pots so I can not see the rooting activity so that is all guess work for me now. I'm going to get some of this chemical based fertilizer just for the starting process only, and apply it just this same way, but probably with about an 1/8th tea spoon measurement or less since leafing activity is so small at the moment. Thanks to Millennial Gardener, one of my most helpful go to fig fellows on the KZbin fig grower's channels.

[@GNaz-wf3db]

I love your channel! It is so intelligent, all encompassing, & thorough. You would be a good teacher.

[@andielliott7721]

Just the information I needed.

[@robertreznik9330]

You are very helpful and have lots of information. While in college 50 years ago I got a degree in Soil Science so I know there is a lot to your presentations. Last November I started a dozen hardy Kiwi hardwood cuttings. Your video was helpful !

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Robert Reznik thank you for watching, I appreciate it. I just find this stuff fascinating. I love making things grow. It must be how God feels - creating life and watching it grow knowing you made it possible is just a wonderful, fulfilling feeling. It is really amazing to me. I’ve never rooted anything but figs. Kiwi sounds really cool! I wouldn’t mind a vine of my own. Maybe one day.

[@Jude2408]

I potted 9 fig cuttings as per your video early September (Australia) 8 have produced a root system so just about to fertilise. The parent plants are doing well. One only had one ranch but the other has 6 so must look at your video on reshaping fig trees in pots. Love all your advice - best garden we have ever had.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

That's great to hear! If your trees have a lot of suckers, definitely remove them. Choose a strong, single central leader from a young age and remove any suckering that occurs. Concentrating the energy to a single trunk yields better results and a more manageable form, in my opinion.

[@aglonema09]

Thanks for your valuable information. I will rooting my fig cuttings today. I will follow your instructions to fertilize my fig cuttings. Here again thank you very much.

[@greenlifegardening7984]

That's the point I've always argued to other gardeners, glad you know the facts!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@frankclements1431]

Thanks for filling in a gap in my knowledge. Now, if I just get something to root, I'm ready.

[@shadytreez]

Eloquent! Not sure if you are planning a career in teaching but you have the gift of clarity! Subscribed!

[@24upickles]

Too all that get a buzz outta the fig, consumption, growing, giving of cuttings, that is a sure fire way of passing on the joy we feel. Have a great year everyone.

[@80sforever3]

Thank by your step by step tutorial. Clear, concise and super helpful

[@davidpepe3436]

My Fig Cuttings just started showing roots so this was great timing to see this video you did. I need to go to 'the' Walmart to refill my propane so I will pick some of this up as well.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad to hear your cuttings rooted! Thanks for watching!

[@jkbc]

I like your explanation , easy to follow and make sense.

[@bobbyquinn2156]

This is awesome, thanks. I'm rooting lots of little ruby figs right now.

[@JamesJohnson-bq8pr]

Thanks for this video! How do I fertilize my cuttings when I up pot them for the first time and for how long? In addition, when do I know that I can up pot my figs into a 5 gallon bucket?

[@MegaTattoo69]

As always he has the best videos when it comes to figs 🤗🤗🤗🥰🥰🥰🤩

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thank you! I'm glad you like them.

[@Moonlight76876]

What a perfectly explained video ! Thank You Millennial !

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it.

[@joerappa5278]

Perfect timing with the video. I have roots in 2 or 3 cups now and was wondering if i should fertilize. Thanks...

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad I could help! Thanks for watching.

[@nmnate]

I'm gonna use opaque containers for the later part of my rooting process this year - I think checking weight is probably the best way to guarantee you water the plants when they're dry enough (can always check it quickly with a kitchen scale or similar). I hand watered all my potted trees last year (only 8 or so, so not too bad), but I pick up the pots to see if they need water. I had a few in a less well draining mix (I want to say it was a berger promix ~15% perlite). I've repotted all of my trees to better draining custom mixes, so I'm fairly confident about going to drip irrigation and not overwatering them. I think your process for really getting the trees to put out lush green growth early in the season will ensure they're taking up enough water.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

NM Nate I’ve never thought of weighing them. I have had better luck pre-moistening the mix first than using dry mix and watering them in, though. I went back to pre-moistening. I have a new batch going and I’m crossing my fingers. I wish you the best of luck!

[@beebob1279]

Good idea. Weighing is an easy way to know where they are with water. I weigh my beehives to be sure there is enough food for the colony. Similar in idea

[@02155Tony]

Thanks for the informative video. I will be starting my cuttings tomorrow Jan 11. I am planting 2 Chicago, 2 Imp. Celeste, 2 white Trianna, 1 Longue D`Aout, 1 Nexoe and 1Magnolia. I will let you know how I make out in about 6 weeks.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Outstanding! Good luck!

[@xiuxiazhou3832]

Great explanation! I have a huge fig tree from a house I just bought, last year I picked a lot of figs , My question is what kind nkp I should give to my fig tree since they don’t bloom , and should I use Chemical fertilizer?

[@beebob1279]

As I've watched the Millenia Gardener he did a video on fertilizers and the amounts. I believe that the phosphorus is the one you need higher. Nitrogen not as much, because it will give your plants a lot of green leave. The potassium not as much.

[@dianasuarez1779]

A couple of years ago my husband and I went to a Vietnamese restaurant, and it happened that the owner was harvesting her figs. I was curious and went closer and saw her fig tree had lots of fruits twice bigger than ours from a bush, and they are juicy and sweet. Unfortunately, she doesn't know what kind she has. Last year, when we went to the restaurant, I asked her for a few branches when she pruned her figs. After we ate, she showed me branches of them from pruning to be thrown away. She told me to cut them and put them in water to root. She was right , after some weeks leaves and roots started to show. I waited few more weeks for the roots to be strong. It was around January this year when I put each of them in pots available in my house. Unfortunately, they started dying one at a time but there's still 7 left for me to nurture. This video told my why they died. In the beginning of this month, May, I took them out of the house and started fertilizing. My question is, when I should transplant them in the ground. I can't see the roots because they are in black pots. I'm only keeping one for myself and give the rest to my friends who are interested. If I have to bring them in the house in the winter, I'm afraid they'll die. Please help. I really want to have a fig tree like hers. Thank you, you're so knowledgeable, you know your figs well.

[@neliborba101]

Nice video, I didn't know that fig cuttings needed to be fertilized. I have a fig tree and tried to use fig cuttings and those started well to root in the refrigerator but then died. I am thinking in trying again this year.

[@marcosepulveda6041]

This is great info. Thanks 😊

[@dougmac8904]

Thanks, I will be using all these points!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

You're welcome. Thank you for watching.

[@rodlawrence5946]

Yet another awesome and detailed video!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@vicentegarcia7711]

Thank you so much for this content, it's so informative and relevant to what I have going on.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

[@mssavedin92]

Good info, thank you. So, you use 1/4 tsp per half gallon of water?

[@Iloveorganicgardening]

I need to fertilize more I think....thanks

[@reginemaeareola9822]

Hi there I just rooted figs first time 😀 excited I used coco coir medium in black plastic nursery pot can’t see the roots but it’s about a month now with buds couple of leaves so my question is when do I start fertilizer?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Once you get a couple leaves that have unrolled, you're going to want to start fertilizing. Leaf formation demands a lot from the internal nutrient stores of the cuttings. Since you used coco coir, which is considered inert, it has no nutrients of use. Therefore, it isn't like a potting mix that can sustain the fig for awhile. Fertilizing sooner, rather than later, may be a good idea.

[@sylvia10101]

I always find your videos helpful! Thank you👍

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad you like them! I appreciate you watching.

[@andielliott7721]

Uh...I just learned something! Thank you.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad it was helpful!

[@CandiceWA]

Very helpful as always!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching. Glad it was helpful!

[@davidmiller9286]

Wow. I'm realizing how much I don't know as I watch all your videos. Thanks for all of the detail! I live in Seattle, and have started rooting in water. Roots have started (and some leaves are emerging). Would you suggest I get these into soil as soon as possible? After watching, I'm now afraid that they will use up all their stored nutrients. Thanks in advance!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I haven't rooted figs in water, but I can tell you if you're rooting soil-less like that, the biggest challenge will be in the up-potting. Fig roots are very fragile, so be very careful not to damage them. You may want to transition into a light potting mix that's already pre-fertilized. That way, you can transition them without using a soluble fertilizer on their fragile roots until they establish some.

[@davidmiller9286]

@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks for the feedback. Will let you know if successful!

[@2brownbraids]

Thank you, useful topic. I find this very helpful. Also I am wondering if you punch holes in those clear plastic cups ? and keep the media fairly dry ?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Yes, I drill 4 holes into the bottom. Once the trees root strongly, I can be a little more liberal with the watering. I keep it somewhere in between.

[@Iloveorganicgardening]

I'm planning on doing some grafting on some of my root stalks this spring. I'm not starting cuttings this year

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Organic Gardening in North Carolina that’s something I need to get good at. I hear it is much easier to graft than root!

[@dianekreil6380]

I potted my first fig cutting late Oct. it is Feb 14 2023 and I have tiny figs on two of the cuttings. What should I do now? I am so excited to see them with leaves and they are still in cups.

[@randylynnr]

I just rooted a couple of fig cuttings. It is July in SC. I planted them about 3 weeks ago in pots. They have more than 3 leaves and growing more in my screen room. They are in 5 gal or so pots. When do I fertilize? Do I use miracle grow tomato or miracle grow bloom. I potted them on miracle grow potting soil. Does that have enough fertilizer for the next 3 month or do I mix up soluble miracle grow

[@janetg2508]

Great job! Yet another well organized, informative video. Your engineering background shines through. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I so enjoy your videos. AZ Zone 9b🌵😎

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Ah Zone 9b, my dream zone. Tropicals and temperates are all possible. I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thank you!

[@mssavedin92]

Question, My cuttings have lots of root growth but no buds or leaves...I upotted them a few days ago into a 4X4 pot....should I feed them with this now?

[@24upickles]

great video, I found two dead cuttings last week. One has perked up the other may do so, its not happy . I am feeding my trees worm pee, 1 part to 10 of water, my fruiting trees are getting the same treatment this year. The fruit must be tasty a bird got my second fig to ripen. I did not bag it , when I went to do so it was only skin deep. lol. We have Tui visit a nearby flax in flower, I will be generous and give them more later on. I may put a basin in the flax for feeding them.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

24upickles darn birds. Get a bird bath if you can. Birds usually peck at figs for the water. If you give them a water source, they’ll be less likely to peck your figs. It isn’t 100%, but it will help some.

[@Bill-rs3mj]

Thank you for the info. I am new to fig

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@krovl81545]

Great stuff! Thanks!

[@m.cristinazaccarini1717]

Great tips here! Thanks so much. Does this also go for the fiddle leaf fig? I have one that someone gave to my mother 40 years ago and it is doing well. I have not mastered the pruning of this and would like to give two friends cuttings. Thank you!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

The Fiddle Leaf Fig is an entirely different species than the edible figs we grow for fruit, so I am not sure.

[@devicevideo9411]

Very Interesting video thank you 🙏🏽😊

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!

[@scottberkley6438]

As always, a lot of really good information! I was wondering, do you ever 'air layer' your rootings?

[@happygardener23]

Thank you for this excellent video! I was wondering if I could use Seedlingers all purpose liquid fertilizer since I happen to have some for other plants? It is 3N - .6Ph - .6P. What do you think?

[@geriannroth449]

Would this video & the other on rooting fig cuttings apply to mulberies too?

[@1cleandude]

Always top notch brother thanks again!🙏🏻

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.

[@1cleandude]

Do you have a particular metal tag you use for identifying your trees! Or if not metal your preferred method. Thanks again!🙏🏻

[@1cleandude]

Never mind I just purchased some off your store!🙏🏻

[@ronaldpersad4192]

Ronni from Trinidad very well exolained Do you recommend a foiler fertilizer for such young leaver?

[@jkbc]

so how long do you have to do this fertilizing until you move the cuttings to bigger containers?

[@PompomYourkey]

thank you! you've helped me so much! without your help all my plants would've been killed

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!

[@Perry1769]

Thanks for the intel! ♥️🌱

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thank you for watching.

[@kitakito]

Awesome & thorough video! I love it, Thnk you for sharing!! Please post more great videos!🙏😊☘🌴🌱

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thank you for watching.

[@shorttermrental775]

I live in the desert, AZ. Would you recommend I repot with soil (in coco/perlite mix) before winter? They are about the size of your in this video. Ty!

[@OutWestHomestead]

Thanks for the information.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@rose5150fl]

Very clear and great information. Tysm 😀

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I’m glad it helped. Thank you for watching!

[@bonjour4807]

Well done

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thank you. I appreciate it.

[@jerrythomas773]

How long do you leave them in the cup

[@thevagrowinggardener1898]

Great info! What if you’re using a worm castings tea? Is there any advice you have for that? I’ve rooted some in vermiculite.

[@mred3608]

I plan on getting a couple of other varieties of fig cuttings this year, so that was helpful. Like most people I prefer organic fertilizer but inorganic has its place in situations of practicality. Do you have any blueberries by the way?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I do not. I feel blueberries take up too much space for the yield. I’m from Hammonton, NJ, “the blueberry capital of the world,” so maybe this is blasphemy, but I would rather spend that space on other things I can’t get at the grocery store. I’m not a big blueberry fan, even though I grew up next to thousands of acres of blueberry fields.

[@mred3608]

@@TheMillennialGardener the varieties of blueberries I have are Blueberry burst, blueberry kiss and the all rounder sunshine blue. I have found these to be fairly dwarf with good yields. The residents of Hammonton on must be healthy with all the antioxidants. But anyhow, look forward to your fig cuttings progress. Thanks for the tips.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

mr ed it’s a big Italian town. Lots of farmland. Aren’t you in a Zone 10 climate? I’m surprised blueberries grow where you’re at. They require chill hours, or are those low chill hybrids? I’m very impressed since you’re in a place with warm (awesome) winters.

[@mred3608]

@@TheMillennialGardener The ones I grow were developed in Australia, apart from the sunshine blue. I think the company is called plantnet. They are dwarfing and I have been very impressed with their disease resistance and yields after a couple of years. Blueberries are pretty big here. Lots of them in the shops at the moment. $2 to $3. I think commercially they grow southern Highbush varieties on the North coast of NSW and quite a few other areas.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

@@mred3608 you should consider starting your own channel. It sounds like you have a food forest over there. I'm continually fascinated by the climate of coastal Australia, and what you're growing in such a place.

[@talalalnabouda5728]

Do you recommend transplanting cuttings like the size of the ones shown in your video or I should wait for more roots

[@TheMillennialGardener]

The cuttings in my video were still too young to transplant. You want really well-defined roots that will hold the soil together when you pull the cutting out of the cup. If there aren't enough roots to hold the soil ball together, the cuttings may suffer in transplant. Transplanting fig cuttings can be tough.

[@Stimm002]

The 18-18 -21 fert is still high nitrogen though as the actual availability of each nutrient is 18-7.8-17.4. So its kinda like a high nitrogen feed with extra potassium, obviously as potassium aids in fruit development along with phosphorus and its a tomato feed. Phosphorus is still fairly low but much more than the 1st feed. None of this really matters in this case but I thought it worth pointing out as many don't realise the numbers on the box arnt always what is actually available to plant. This is because, in the case of phosphorus for example, the type used is P2O5. P2O5 contains 56.4% oxygen and 43.6% Phosphorus. So only 43.6% is phosphorus. With potassium its generally K2O which is 17% oxygen and 83% potassium.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I don't think you can break it down to the raw elemental weights like that. Living beings don't assimilate raw elements. They assimilate compounds. Plants don't scavenge phosphorous down to its elemental form. They're stored as various compounds that are usable to them.

[@Stimm002]

@@TheMillennialGardenerAs a biologist I can say its been studied though. In many countries it is mandatory to display both the full amount as is shown in countries like the US and the amount of each measured component available to plants as in my above example. So for instance in such places, miracle grow liquid shows, 7-3-5 and next to it shows 7-1.3-4.2. In phosphorus (P2O5) for example, the oxygen is cleved both by microbes in the soil leaving phosphorus in the soil but primarily is done within the plant after absorption which uses the oxygen elsewhere or it is excreted and the phosphorus used separately, either way its still only the amount of phosphorus in the compound for the plant to use. Chempak no4 shows 15-15-30. Then in brackets its 15-6.5-24.9. Life does use individual elements, it may not absorb them that way but then they are broken down inside the lifeforms to their constituents. Our cells primarily use sodium, potassium and chloride and to a lesser extent magnesium and calcium. The cells use the different electron charge of these to work. Moving them in and out of cells to create positive and negative gradients. But we don't consume these elements individually the same is true of plants. P2O5 is better absorbed by plants due to it water solubility but the plant must break it down to use the phosphorus to build buds and flowers. I would love to continue this conversation so hope you see this reply.

[@rauljimenez8132]

What is your opinion about clear plastic, roots and sunlight. Others have the opinion that sunlight is bad for roots.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Raul Jimenez I think it makes sense. Roots live underground where there is no sun, so I can expect roots to be sensitive to sunlight. That being said, I have no proof of that, so it may not be true. I can tell you there is no ill effect from rooting in clear cups. I keep the cups in a tray, which obscures the sun, and the January sun is quite weak. So I wouldn’t hesitate using clear cups for winter time rooting. I can’t say that’s the case for summer rooting.

[@zetaminor77]

thanks for the video!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@thavylor]

Thank you

[@TheMillennialGardener]

You're welcome!

[@shashakeeleh5468]

I noticed you don't seem to have your cuttings in direct sun? Is that correct?

[@chubbychic5495]

Can I put homemade compost as fertilizer instead of the chemical one?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

No. You won’t have room in the cups. When you root cuttings over the winter indoors, this is a very unnatural process at not at the proper time. Soluble fertilizers are what you want to use for this type of thing. You can use fish emulsion if you want, but it will stink if you use it indoors. Liquid kelp is also usable, but it isn’t odorless.

[@goo757]

xD::: bonsai soil is the way to go here in South Australia epic video m8 good info to

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching! I do espalier, which is similar, and it works really well!

[@destiny5776]

I have a dilemma... This past fall, as an experiment, I put 10 fig cuttings from my big fig tree in a big pot of garden soil to see if I could start them. I never dealt with fig cuttings before so I didn't know what to expect.. Now the cuttings have little figs and very small leaves and they are so cute. I'm presuming they started to root but I have no way to see for sure if there are roots or how big the roots are. I don't know if I should transplant them in individual pots or fertilize them for that matter. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.. Thank you...😊

[@TheMillennialGardener]

You will have to very carefully remove the rooted cuttings from the soil, untangle the roots as gingerly as possible and separate them. There is a good chance you will take some losses in the transition. When you do this, I suggest moving the newly transplanted cuttings into the shade for a few days so they can acclimate from the stress without the sun beating on them. Watering them in with diluted soluble fertilizers like fish emulsion can help reduce the stress.

[@destiny5776]

@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you for answering and for your suggestions. 👍Yesterday I went to dig in the pot of the fig cuttings with a stick the size of a chop stick but I could not get all the way down to see the roots. The pot is very big and deep and the cuttings were at least 15 inches long when I potted them.. That's to tell you how much I know about fig cuttings.. 🤣😂🤣 The little figs on it are doing very well and they are very cute. One cutting shows sign of very minute leaves and I find it encouraging and exciting. However I'm hesitant on transplanting them for the fear that the lack of roots will kill them all. This is my first experiment and I don't want to mess it up. 🤣😂🤣 I guess that happens when there is no experience on the subject, huh!!. I have 10 of them. I guess I could try with one and see what happens. Now I'm wandering if it would be ok to transplant them when the little figs drop off or if that would be too late in the year for transplanting. I think this time around I need to learn as I go but I can't hide the fact that it's still very rewarding to see a plant growing from a simple stick.. Again, thank you so much for your help and I will keep you posted on my experiment....💖

[@bananaegger]

For better rooting and better fruiting you can spray posphor on the leaves.

[@markcampolo577]

when should I start acclimating my cuttings to outside and for how long ? I live in N.E. Ohio Also should I leave them in a shady spot at first instead of sunlight ?I have them on a heat mat and under LED light for at least 12 hrs a day. They are growing good with leaves and roots and its only been a month since sticking them in clear cups in a bin with mulch around them. Also how long should I leave the heat mat under them in the bin with mulch around them and the light on them ? thanks, Mark

[@TheMillennialGardener]

mark campolo you should start acclimating them at least a month before they go outside permanently. If you see last frost around May 1, start acclimating them late March where you carry them outside during the day, then back in at night. Always begin acclimating on cloudy days. I have a video on how to do it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gnyml6CnhdCmqrM You can remove your cuttings from heat when they have strong root development.

[@markcampolo577]

@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you so much !

[@andrewhunter5254]

Happy New year by the way I did notice one of the cups only got two lots of warter or did it.🤔👍

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I must've either mis-edited or missed it. Truth be told, after letting them sit, they still looked a little dry and I gave them all one more ounce after I was done filming. Make sure you verify once the roots start taking off because they can suck up water quickly in the sun.

[@bartsexton1652]

It’s July 10 th here in NC . Can you take the growth as it is now on my fig tree and root them as you do in the dormant stage .

[@TheMillennialGardener]

If the wood is green, it will struggle to root. Green wood requires constant humidity to root and maintain, and it often rots. The only thing I'd recommend you do at this point is an air layer. Generally, they take 2-3 months to mature . If you start them now, you may be able to remove them in September.

[@bartsexton1652]

@@TheMillennialGardener Thanks buddy

[@7wernli]

is the sunlight not going to hurt the roots through the clear cup?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I've never had a problem. You'd be surprised how much UV rays are blocked my plastics and glass. But also keep in mind this is being done in late winter/early spring when the UV index is still relatively low.

[@andielliott7721]

What is that pencil you use to write in "white" on your cups?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

It is a paint pen. I have them linked in my Amazon Storefront in the video description under Garden Accessories. They allow you to write on wood, glass, metal, etc.

[@claudettelinton7768]

How often do you water the fig cuttings?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

It depends on how dry they get. That will vary widely based on how much sun they’re getting, how humid or dry your air is, the container size, etc. You have to monitor it and ensure they never get dry or else they will die.

[@mandychen9846]

Some of my cuttings rooted (very well), sprouted, then died. I think mostly because of root rotting. When to water or if I should water my newly rooted cuttings always confuses me.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Mandy Chen that sounds like overwatering first sure. In my experience, it takes a very long time for figs to need water after they root. My cuttings have rooted over a month ago and I’ve maybe only watered them 3 times, and very sparingly (3 oz or so at a time). I think it is beneficial to start carrying them outside if it is above freezing after they’ve rooted strongly. I think the unfiltered sunlight kills off mold, fungus and rot very well. Bad fungus grows indoors from lack of UV radiation.

[@vinny6396]

I started 250 cuttings, and now all showing roots. 100 using Ben Bs Fig pop method and 100 in cups, 50 are in 4x9 inch pots. Its going to take me forever to fertilize all with a turkey baster. Do you think I should fertilize in the 4x9s that I cant see the roots?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

vince rosati you have roots in all 250? Or they’re just starting to show in some? That would be an insane success rate! No, a turkey baster is not reasonable in your situation. With your huge setup, I would try to bottom water - have them all in a tray, fill it with an inch or so of water and let the soil uptake the fertilized water from the bottom drain holes. Of course, I would only do this for the trees with good roots. I’m not sure how you’d water fig pops. That’s why I do not use that method. It is hard to deal with in my opinion. You may have to undo the tops and use a baster to trickle in water, but that would take a really long time.

[@RRaucina]

Well said and let's all thank Walmart for their great prices on delivered fertilizers. 40 pounds of triple 16 for $13. I don't know how they can do it.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

That sounds really cheap. I've never seen that 😮

[@RRaucina]

@@TheMillennialGardener It's 20 pounds for $13.50 to be correct, but still quite a deal.

[@genejaytre]

Where do you get your cutting or do you sell them? Are fig tree roots invasive?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I offered cuttings in January and February, but the season has passed and the trees are now awake. My cuttings come from a laundry list of people, mostly Figbid and trades with friends I’ve met over the years. Fig roots are very invasive.

[@jenniferdomdom9412]

Thank you ☺️

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@طيبألعراق]

Nice

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@unafilliatedx2310]

Sweet, good info

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thanks for watching!

[@johne.osmaniii7217]

Wow! Talk about timing, ...I bought this place I’m living for $6,500.00 back in June, of 19, ... one of the niceties, here is that I have a huge willow oak tree, (about 65/70’ tall, with a 4&1/2’ base, & a fig tree out back, near the access alley, for the power poles, ... it is almost 15/18’ tall, & has not been cared for, for sometime, ... & it probably needs to be trimmed back, or pruned, but not sure when to do that, except maybe this coming fall, ... even though it is only 1/2 way through January, ... it has a spread that makes it about 20’ wide, ... the figs were quite tasty this past September, ... but do not have very much information on it, ... even though I would like to read up on them, I did not know that there were several species of figs, ... I am in the 7b grow zone, here in Gadsden, Alabama, ... and the figs, ... they are pretty tasty when pulled right off a limb, ... but I am diabetic, so must watch what, & how much I eat of almost everything, ... lol, ... or at least adjust my dosages of insulin, glyburide, & pioglitazone, in order to be able to keep things in check, ... I have been eh, ... somewhat successful, in finally getting my green beans, peas, peppers, watermelon, cucumbers, & different varieties of tomatoes, & potatoes to grow, in pots, & last year, I started a raised bed garden with several varieties of sustainable plants to grow, ... & thrive, ... and am looking forward to having a successful garden this year, as well, ... adding the figs to my repertoire, ... lol! So for any information that I can glean from KZbin, and those who I follow on here, I will become a sponge, to learn all I can, use what I need to know, & keep the rest of the information in the background, for future use, ...Lol! Thanks!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

There are literally thousands of varieties of figs known, and probably tens of thousands growing in the wild in their native habitats. The fig wasp was introduced in California back in the late 1800's - the fig is pollinated by a very tiny wasp - and they have become ubiquitous and grow all over the woods where the wasp is present. Outside of California where the wasp is colonized, figs are infertile. All our figs are parthenocarpic, or as we call them, "common figs." They set fruit without any pollination, so the seeds are sterile. You may be able to get genetic testing done on your tree if it's a variety kept in a database (I think UC Davis may do it?), but it'll likely be impossible to know what it truly is. All that matters is that it tastes good! Don't be afraid to plant more :)

[@WuesteGobi]

Happy New Year

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Thank you! You, too.

[@krystolred347]

How long after they root can you take them outside?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

You can take them outside as soon as they root as long as you don't expose them to frost or freeze. They cannot tolerate any frost or freezing temperatures when they're this young, so only bring them outside when there is no threat of cold. If it is going to be cold, bring them back inside.

[@mediterraneanplants9879]

Do you do this all-year around?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

No. Only during the dormant season in winter. You should not take cuttings from your figs while they're actively growing.

[@mediterraneanplants9879]

@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for the reply. My question was regarding fertilizing young plants

[@SalManila1]

Do you just eat the figs fresh or prepare them is a dish?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I eat most of them fresh, but some I dehydrate for later: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5TKo6qZbJZpsNE

[@CorbinAce]

Millennial: I am over whelmed with so much information. I have written the fertilizers you mention down and will try to find them at Home Depot. I was wondering, my neighbor has 2 Donkeys that decided to snuggle up to my fence and use the area for an out house. There is a nice pile of Donkey manure in there side of my fence. Do you have any idea if this is any good or too strong to use on the 3 ft plants in the ground? My grandfather could grow a broom stick. He only used Horse manure for everything. I'm sure my cuttings 5" are too small for this. Tell me what you think. I am getting discouraged my shriveled up old brain is trying to keep up with so much info, but not doing so good. LOL You sure do know what you are doing. I call you the growers encyclopedia. Everything I have are dormant right now but they are showing buds just beginning. I also have a few grape vines propagating. Sorry this is so long!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Horse/donkey manure is an excellent source of nutrients, but must be fully composted before use. The breakdown of manure demands an extreme amount of nitrogen from the soil, so placing raw/uncomposted manure on your plants may out-compete them for nitrogen and cause them to turn yellow and possibly fail. You may add manure to your soil, but you need to do it 3-4 months in advance of using that soil so you can allow nature to fully break it down. If you have a compost pile or garden beds you won't be using until, say, April or May, now is a great time to add it to your compost pile or work it into the top few inches of your soil so it'll be ready for April/May. But never apply fresh poop to plants.

[@CorbinAce]

@@TheMillennialGardener Gotcha. Thanks for answering so quickly. You caught me in time. I was thinking of mixing the donkey poop to a 5 gallon bucket of water and very wet potting soil and pour it on the ground. I think I will go for the fertilizer you suggested. You know best, for sure.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Toolman thank you. I’m still learning, and there is a lot to learn. Try some experiments where you can.

[@nmnate]

Excited for this rooting season (put in an order with Harvey last night, already received my Big Bill / WillsC orders). Gonna have a good time: RdB x2, Nero 600m, Takoma Violet x2 / Sao Miguel Roxo x3 / MBVS x2 (gonna do a comparison, already have 2 chicago hardy types), Smith x2, I258 x2, Socorro Black x4, Yellow Long Neck x2 / Golden Riverside / UCR 278-128 (UCR comparison) and Sweet Joy. I think I'm going to do it the JSacadura way with rooting bins / coir and then up-pot them to 4x9 size pots. I think you can really control the moisture in the right part of the cutting with doing them sideways (water only in the root zone), but you have to not kill them when you do the transplant. I've only rooted one tree so far (out of 3 attempts with material from my trees). The one that worked got propagated in a raised bed and then transplanted. Will probably give away spare trees to friends if I'm extra lucky with the rooting process.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Sounds like the collection is coming along. I picked up 6 new varieties from Harvey as well. I think I was his first order - the prices appeared during refreshes and I was checked out within 90 seconds! It was stressful! I've heard very mixed reviews on J's box method. Some people swear by it, and others say they've had terrible trouble with mold and rot. Since his method holds in humidity, it's critical to get the moisture level correct. You may want to consider only dedicating half your cuttings to a new method and root the spares in a method you're more comfortable with. If you make a mistake with his method, you run the risk of losing every single cutting. I ordered a grafting tool because I want to try a few grafts to hedge my bets this year. I had amazing rooting success last year and this year I'm having a terrible time. Maybe because it's been so warm. The environmental conditions this year are so much warmer and more humid.

[@RhI3Ma]

My fig tree fruits very often but the fruits dont mature and fall off the tree young. what could be wrong?? i only use vermicompost and nothing else as fertilizer. I have a variety of fruit trees and rest of them are good.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Chandra Sree what variety do you have? Are you sure it is not a Smyrna variety? Smyrna figs will not set fruit to maturity without the fig wasp and will drop the fruits when they are the size of a penny.

[@RhI3Ma]

@@TheMillennialGardener May be it is! not one fruit has matured in the last 6 months. Is there anything i can do ??

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Chandra Sree how old is the tree? Most common fig trees will fruit for you first season, but some drop their fruits and take 2 or 3 seasons to hold. Celeste and Pasteliere are notorious for not holding fruit until they’re 2 or 3 years old. If after 2-3 seasons the tree is still dropping its fruit, you either have a Smyrna fig or a caprifig (which is a male fig and inedible). Neither of them are usable unless you live next to a fig wasp colony, which only exists in small pockets on CA in the US. If you have a caprifig or a Smyrna fig, your only options are to throw out the tree or cut it down, turn it into rootstock and graft a new variety onto it.

[@valeriesjeans]

So the bowl has 1/2 gallon h2o? That would be for 1/2 teaspoon regular concentration? Then 1/4 teaspoon for 1/2 concentration, right? Cool! 😎

[@winrockywin331]

What’s the citrus tree in the background in the tan pot?

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Tony Renaldi that is a blood orange.

[@winrockywin331]

The Millennial Gardener I love your videos! You should do one on the blood orange. I’ve been trying to grow a meyer lemon in Connecticut and it’s so hard.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

@@winrockywin331 thank you. I'm having a bear of a time with this blood orange. I don't know if it is the scion itself or if the unknown rootstock it's grafted onto is finicky, but it has defoliated on me 2 and a half times over the past 2 seasons. It is extremely temperamental and freaks out every time I move it, which is unavoidable in Zone 8 because it's hardy only to 9b (or a warm 9a). I should finally get my first two fruits off of it this year, and I'm hoping it settles down as it matures. I don't feel comfortable enough to speak about it with authority yet because it's giving me a lot of trouble.

[@winrockywin331]

The Millennial Gardener understood but I’d still love to know how you treat and fertilize them. You have proven yourself with other fruits

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Tony Renaldi as I get better with citrus I will make more videos. Citrus actually gets fertilized a little differently. They are one of the few trees that need higher nitrogen, low phosphorous and need special trace micros.

[@Zabardageegan]

How often do you have to feed.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Frank K it depends on how often you need to water and how yellow your leaves are. Every 14 days is pretty conservative. However, watch your leaves. If your leaves start turning dark green, you’re getting too much nitrogen saturation. If the leaves turn a deep, dark green, stop fertilizing.

[@Zabardageegan]

The Millennial Gardener Thank you tons

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Frank K you’re welcome.

[@thor4594]

I gotta get started on my 70+ cuttings in my tent, why cant it be March yet lol

[@TheMillennialGardener]

I feel your pain. I’m just trying to enjoy not sweating. There will be plenty of sweat for me soon enough down here.

[@thor4594]

Just got done watering them all woot! I did as you suggested in the video. HP promix all the way!! drainage is awesome! Thanks for the info!

[@TheMillennialGardener]

@@thor4594 wow, 70 trees with a turkey baster! That's commitment! Nice work.

[@thor4594]

I filled my bowl, grabbed a chair and went to bastin! haha

[@TheMillennialGardener]

@@thor4594 and hopefully had a beer for yourself after.

[@2010Mrturk]

What’s the best method to kill fungus gnats, can they kill my plants ? As I have them inside the house

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Hustle BigKilz the best way to deal with fungus gnats is to bake your soil before you use it to kill any eggs. If it is too late for that, or they’ve found their way in somehow, in my Amazon Storefront in the video description I have a product linked called Mosquito Bits. It is a natural bacteria that kills the larvae (not the adult gnats but the larvae). It will correct the issue. The bacteria can be mildly toxic to pets, so don’t handle it with your bare hands and keep it away from pets. It is effective, though.

[@itsarni]

I‘m using 1 inch of sand on top of each pot.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

@@itsarni I saw that on your Twitter photo. How is it working out?

[@itsarni]

The Millennial Gardener It works but using this method makes watering more difficult as you should water from the bottom. Also not covering the bottom drainage holes of your pot might be an entry point for fungus gnats. But overall it’s the method I prefer the most. Already been using yellow stickers but it looks awfully. Just gently water from the top and make sure it remains an even layer of sand on top.

[@TheMillennialGardener]

Arni i tried putting a few rocks on the bottom of my cups this time to prevent the gnats from nesting in the holes. I’ll see how it works.