GT Original Power Series Cranks VS Reproduction Versions

[@ralf57yearsold]

My english is not Good .....is oldschool better?I Hope it.😉 Nice Time from germany😉 Cool Video.😊

[@atrains]

Hallo! The old school is more desirable and if you are trying to build the period correct then you need the old school cranks since they are dated. However the new school versions from GT appear to be stronger all around. My vote is old school! Danke fürs zuschauen

[@chrism9976]

I just bought the silver GT Power Series crank for my 2021 Pro Performer. I want to replace the black spindle and crank arm bolt with stainless steel. Do you have the measurements?

[@atrains]

@Chris M. You are out of luck with the spindle bolts. TLC bikes was making them in titanium for a while but no longer offers them. They are M14. I have a set on my 2018 GT Pro Performer 26”. Super high quality and match the crank arms. TLC doesn’t sell them anymore. Your best bet is to polish the black oxide spindle bolts from your cranks. As for the pinch bolts they are tricky because they are standard M8 thread but have an M10 head which is unique. Porkchop BMX had them in a longer size chrome plated but they don’t sell them anymore either. Everything they have has the M12 diameter cap head and that won’t work. I suggest polishing the pinch bolts as well. Good luck.

[@davidrendon9838]

So the new one doesn’t come with the bottom bracket bearings and cups?? Do you have a suggestion wish to live with this?

[@atrains]

In the video I mention that the new cranks do not come with bottom bracket bearings and cups. This design is based off the Primo powerbite cranks which are universal for all bottom brackets. You just need the correct bottom bracket set for your bike. If this is for an 80-90’s GT then you need any American Bottom bracket 22mm. I really like primo www.americancycle.com/product/primo-american-bb/ But you can use GT’s. Just be aware that GT presses the bearings into the cups. This makes it very difficult to make the sleeve to the correct size. www.danscomp.com/gt-power-series-american-bottom-bracket-silver-22mm-gp2258u60os/p1253322 I hope this helps! Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@metallicaazesina2879]

What is the difference with one that is a single piece, is pedaling really better or is it just the weight?…

[@atrains]

I assume you are referring to the drive pin bolt in the OG arms versus the threaded boss on both arms of the reproduction cranks? If so then it boils down to the design. The GT power series cranks from SR made in the 80’s were only designed to be right side drive like every bike we have ever known. When GT made the new cranks (which are based on the Primo design) it made more sense from an economical standpoint to manufacture one arm that is symmetrical in design with pressed in thread bosses for either left hand or right hand. I have seen dual drive sprocket bikes built and this set of cranks would obviously work for that purpose but you have to ask why? I have no idea why you would run the drive side on the left. With flip flop rear hubs you could theoretically do it. In the end the new school repop cranks are designed with costs in mind.

[@GACHBMX]

Great info, thanks for showing the differences.

[@monkist]

I love the thoroughness and the accuracy you make these videos with. You simply provide all the information anyone could ever need about the Power Series cranks, much appreciated! And you do the same on the Museum as well - thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with us!

[@atrains]

I appreciate that! Thank you for the kind words.

[@monkist]

@@atrains Not at all, thank YOU always! BTW you mentioned the Eastern cranks, do you happen to know what was the name of the model? I’m thinking about a cheaper alternative but the Hollowbites seem to be out of production and the Powerbites have the logo etched into them…

[@Junior-fd8ux]

I think I’m going to let my cousin throw one of my new sets in the Bridgeport to mill that left side drive down

[@atrains]

Interesting. To make it look like the OG cranks?

[@Junior-fd8ux]

@@atrains yea it just kind of hit me watching this video for the 15th time lol.. I love your stuff man.. but ya he works in an engine shop and does some amazing stuff on that bridge port. I’m going to see if he can take the other side down also to make that look a little more original like. I’m not trying to fool anyone but myself for the look on a nice build that’s worth the effort.

[@metallicaazesina2879]

El antiguo o nuevo cuál es el mejor?

[@atrains]

That depends on what you are trying to achieve. For strength I believe the new cranks are superior to the originals. The spindle is a larger diameter so the square is larger as well. There is more material in the area of the clasp that pinches the square. The arms are thicker and stronger than the original design. The pedal bosses are inserted with steel threads. This makes stripping the aluminum out like in the 80’s nearly impossible. The set up is symmetrical as well. You can drive from the left side or right side arm. However if you are a purist and have the mentality that it has to be era correct then you absolutely need the OG (antiguo) cranks.

[@McGuinness89]

Good stuff man thanks. I have twin 21 Pro Performers. Making 1 old-school and leaving 1 alone. Just need different grips and seat. I already have Mags, Power Disk, and 1.75 GT tires coming in eventually lol

[@sabersoulsix]

GT needs to crank out these reproductions

[@BobbyPhoenix]

It's funny that you mentioned the sleeve in between the bearings. The originals never had it and you can't even put one in because of the way the spindles made. I have a pair of my 86 pro freestyle tour that's a daily rider and every maintenance on the cranks I check the bearings and they seem fine so I don't know if they are really needed. I don't have a new set of GT's but I do have a first gen set of primo power bytes and I never use the sleeve and never had a problem with those bearings either. I guess it's good if you could get it in there but I don't really think it's necessary unless you're really hard on your cranks.

[@MorbidThrasher666]

Thanx for the video and info.Keep them vids coming

[@wogart4600]

Hi atrains, great video! Love the detailed comparison. I am wondering whether the original GT power discs (stamped logos) are compatible with the reproduction GT power series cranks. The repro GT power disc comes with 2 different spacers for different axle sizes. May be a similar spacer would make the repro GT cranks with 22 mm axle fit the original GT power disc if they would not be compatible? Thanks and keep those videos coming!

[@atrains]

Wogart4600 Yes the new GT power series cranks will fit the old school power disc, no problem at all.

[@timcamden1567]

So are bearing sizes different? I think i tried putting my 2018 gt bearings/cranks in a 1991 gt vertigo frame and they were much smaller. I need to order a bb for the 91. I don't suppose you know the size? Thanks

[@atrains]

You need an American bottom bracket and bearings for the new GT power series cranks to mount in your 1991 Vertigo. The bearing ID must be 22mm. Use Primo www.vitalbmx.com/product/guide/Bottom-Brackets-Accessories,12/Primo/American,11401 Or GT www.amazon.com/GT-American-Bottom-Bracket-Silver/dp/B07BV9K2XY I hope this helps!

[@McGuinness89]

Assembly/disassembly video soon? I have a repro Power Disk coming in for my ‘21 Performer any week now and would like to see how it’s done

[@Junior-fd8ux]

Ever find anything on that??

[@timothybaker6596]

Dude your content is next level. Fantastic info

[@domone1201]

Don’t understand why the alloy are heavier than the chromo?

[@atrains]

Dom One, not sure exactly. I have not weighed the GT power series alloy vs the GT power series from the mid 90’s (chromoly versions). I suspect that the aluminum alloy needs to be beefed up and more material to perform as well as the chromoly versions that are welded. Again this is speculation.

[@wogart4600]

What‘s the correct BB for a 1987 PFT Team Model? GT Ultralite Nylon cups or the chromed steel cups from the video? Looks like Ultralite in the OG package. Thanks!

[@atrains]

@Wogar Chromed cups as you see in the video. 1987-1989 GT PFTTM did not come with the GT Ultralite cups from the factory. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@atrains]

Also just to make things clear the GT Ultralite cups came mostly on the racing bikes like the Pro Series Team and Robinson bikes. The Freestyle bikes never had the Ultralite cups from the factory.

[@wogart4600]

@@atrains Thank you for the response. This helps indeed setting up my bike to stock specs. I have chromed cups installed on my 1987 PFTTM. Just wasn't sure whether this was the original set up or not. In the 1987 catalogue with the Prototype pics in it, my impression was these were black cups from distance which left me unsure what was originally installed by the factory.

[@MintIncorporated]

Great videos brother!

[@kriswarren1526]

I've seen 170mm on the gt avalanche mountain bike

[@atrains]

Kris that is correct. I forgot about the 170mm on the mountain bikes because my brain was focused on Freestyle and Racing. 150mm, 170mm, 175mm and 180mm it is. Thanks for pointing it out.

[@andrewjphillips]

Why don't the old ones need a spacer?

[@atrains]

@Andrew Phillips; From the BMXMUSEUM we got an answer for your question. Please see below. In the comments someone asked why the OG BB didn't have a spacer, it didn't need one because you use the non drive side lock nut to set preload against the fixed cone. Most current BB's have a "floating" spindle so they need a reference to locate the bearing preload-hence the spacer. bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=852180 Regards!

[@arthursoto4285]

On pure looks the news ones are nicer to me. Almost looks like chrome

[@atrains]

@Arther Soto - I think this is a gentleman’s argument so to each their own. I have both the duller survivor set on my 1988 GT PFT TM and a more polished set of survivors on another 1988 PFT TM. I prefer the polished myself but that was not how the originals were. I did get a brand new set of 2021 cranks and I noticed the quality was not as good as the 2018-2019 release. Porkchop BMX has the new repop cranks for sale.

[@peters.8094]

What is the chainline on the repop version?

[@atrains]

This question has no relevance to the cranks themselves. They are offset by spacers depending on the chainring thickness you utilize. If you use a 1/8” thick sprocket you will have to space accordingly to line everything up. If you utilize the chain ring and power disc you will have to adjust accordingly. Likewise if you use a 3/32” chain vs a 1/8”. Spacers are provided with the American bottom bracket you select. I hope this helps

[@peters.8094]

@@atrains ok. Do you know what the minimum chainline can be obtained with these cranks ?

[@luisrperez-tk2in]

So 86 Gt performer is 175mm ?

[@atrains]

@@luisrperez-tk2in One piece cranks on the 1986 GT performer were 175mm forged chromoly.

[@luisrperez-tk2in]

Ok thanks

[@jayweinraub2082]

Hey, where do you offer the spindle bolts for the original cranks? I bought a set off of a guy on eBay a few years ago, and they were totally wrong.

[@atrains]

Hey Jay. Thanks for watching and commenting. I made about 100 sets of the reproduction original GT power series spindle bolts between 2019-2020. I am all out and have no plans to make any more at this time. Sorry. I would subscribe to this thread for updates. bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=801601

[@rgw1380rw]

I'm looking to order a new chain wheel for my 2018 GT Pro Performer. Since I'm trying to keep my parts in the Odyssey family, I was wondering if anyone knows whether I can run a Odyssey half bash sprocket with my Power Series crank arm? If anyone has ran the two together without any fitment issues, I'd appreciate your feedback.

[@atrains]

I am not sure but I see your concern. The GT power series crank arms are fairly wide at the connection are to the spindle. The half bash sprocket might interfere with it. The only suggestion I can offer up is to take the arm off the bike and head to a good LBS that has the half bash in stock and see if you can test fit it.

[@rgw1380rw]

@@atrains Thanks, buddy! I had only seen pictures of the sprocket in question paired with those cranks that are more less a rounded tube with the smaller top that the compression bolt secures to the chain wheel and spindle. With the design of the Power Series, I didn't want to just order something that could possibly be a waste of money. If the PS/half bash doesn't work well, I'll most likely go with an Odyssey Disco Gram sprocket because of its flat surface that doesn't take much to figure out.

[@mh1art870]

Great video bro thank you 🙏

[@Mandark1986]

I need replacement spindle bolts for the newer power series cranks. I can’t find them on eBay or anywhere else. I checked the bmx museum and seen your post you had like 18 sets of the OG bolts made in 303 stainless steel. I think I seen some on gt bmx website for like $37 for 1 but I don’t think it’s on it anymore any help where to find them please. Awesome videos keep them coming 💯🙌

[@atrains]

@Bal Zac Harry....interesting name....ok so I made spindle bolts for the original GT power series cranks from 1986-1990, not the repops. If you need spindle bolts check with Primo or Haro or TLC (UK) as they offer replacement spindle bolts. They are not stainless steel so if you are looking for a “polished” look find me on the BMXMuseum and send me a PM.

[@Mandark1986]

Thank you I appreciate that

[@420architecMindNDesign]

The original bottom bracket is very interesting

[@atrains]

@02FoolsgoldGT It was a much simpler design. And it was designed to create the proper preload on the bearings. It is supper easy to install the original power series cranks. The new repop cranks require a spacer sleeve for the inside of the bottom bracket as I explained in the video. To get that sleeve measured and cut perfectly is not easy. Most people leave the sleeve out altogether which then makes the new repop cranks a little easier to install than the originals. At the end of the day the OG cranks are the way to go if you are trying to be era correct. If I had to ride on them I would pick the repops every single time. They are built stronger and will be more reliable. I have them on my 2018 GT Pro Performer 26” bike and they hold up to my abuse.

[@420architecMindNDesign]

@@atrains I was gonna say I’d rather beat up a new repop than an original piece

[@420architecMindNDesign]

@@atrains also thanks for the information

[@danielwatts9803]

They should've made optional titanium hardware and/or spindles..

[@atrains]

@Daniel Watts There are companies that make the parts you seek. TLC bikes on EBay offers the titanium spindle bolts for the repop cranks. They are listed under “Primo”. They also fit some of the Haro cranks with the same design. For the spindle, Primo also has that covered. They make a titanium spindle for the Primo cranks which are the same exact dimensions as the repop GT power series. The design belongs to Primo which is why they look similar. Expect to pay $80-$100 for the spindle and $70 for the spindle bolts in the titanium materials. I have these on my 2018 GT 26” Pro Performer.

[@danielwatts9803]

@@atrains cool.. I had no idea.. thanks