GT40 Kit Car Build - Ep 10 - Fuel Tank Install

[@alfaman4113]

It’s good to see another Aussie building a Gt

[@JohnSmith-hr3gv]

Buy me a kit and I will build it for you.

[@gsh3159]

Thats a nice trick with the hole saw

[@aaronpaterson7582]

Love watching a OCD mechanic at work.

[@gregharris1966]

Get yourself a countersink bit for dressing holes you have to drill yourself, does a much neater job than a file. Quicker too.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the suggestion Greg, I think of them every time I'm drilling and have to deburr the holes, but then I forget by the time I get to the hardware store!

[@brrraaaapp8502]

@@BuiltbyDan you can also get a handscraber deburring tool. Looks like a pen with a slightly curved tip. Works like charm on alu. Also put some tape between weldings, before you drill holes etc. to catch any shavings.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Great idea with the tape! I'll definitely use that one, thanks.

[@oceanbeliever681]

This is why I haven’t jumped into a kit. He has a lot of patience of which I lack lol

[@BuiltbyDan]

😂

[@ProfessorOzone]

That was a clever idea with the hole saw. I think I'll steal it and tell everyone it was my idea. LOL! FYI, I know you had good reason, but just for the future if you have a choice, bolts should go in from top to bottom and front to back when possible. Good luck!

[@BuiltbyDan]

Go for it! I wasn't sure if people would support that approach or rip me to shreds! 🤣

[@pvanb291]

Yeah, it's a great idea!

[@achmadosman9807]

As an engineer, I am surprised at the paucity of supports for the tank. The pads for the bottom should be the full width and length of the inner tank. The sides and top can, I suppose , only be at the ends, but I shudder to think about the loads on a full tank with the g forces of racing playing on it. If you plan to keep what you have shown, I would caution that you do not race the car, avoid full tank high speed bumps and regularly inspect the fuel lines for fractures. I assume that there will be adequate drainage so that in the event of a tank rupture, fuel runs out of the car and does not pool within the car.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the comments/advice. I intend for this to be a street car, not a track car, but note your comments regardless, a full length pad along the bottom makes sense regardless of the vehicles use.

[@DemopVWgarage]

@@BuiltbyDan contact adhesive will work to stick the rubber pads to the alloy too ;)

[@fairysox221]

I was thinking the same, I would have also made the two rubber end stops out of a single piece L shaped to help prevent them falling out in the future...

[@fairysox221]

@@BuiltbyDan Glue closed pore sponge rubber strips along the tank for full length support, top tip is using fairy liquid spread over the rubber strips when sliding in, it seems to be the best lubricant for fitting rubber components, I would also make the two end rubbers out of a single L shaped rubber to help prevent them dropping out over time, and I strongly recommend using jointing compound on the surfaces when attaching the brackets, I'm a retired Air-frame Engineer so hope you don't mind me chipping in.

[@rayurlich]

Nice work Dan. Thanks for the video(s).

[@macman6107]

Great video Dan. Your solution for the hole saw was brilliant. With regards to the cleaning. It doesn't hurt anyone to have a clean workspace/workshop. Just ask Ron Dennis.

[@7novalee]

So far, nothing has been simply bolt things up. Hope the people you got the kit from are watching.

[@Ianduncanqld1]

Me too, as I just ordered one!

[@bobuncle8704]

Coming along nicely. I only wish I could keep my shop looking as good as yours.

[@phuketmusicscene9008]

Hi Dan, I would also consider using some adhesive on the rubber pads as vibration will soon allow them to move and become ineffective

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the suggestion Dale. I did question the manufacturer about the need for adhesive and they advised no, the compression fit would be sufficient. If I pull the tanks out again I'll look at applying some and maybe adding a rubber block to the top of the tank as well.

[@callunfieldes7648]

thanks for sharing your build. Im looking forward to following your progress

[@zachstewart3071]

I’m the same way with cleaning up as I go along, it helps in the end so you dont have one giant mess

[@Mldavis1214]

My dream is to build one of these with a 3.5 ecoboost. You building the chassis and putting it online for me to see is amazing

[@BuiltbyDan]

I hope you enjoy the build series Markee, and I hope you can fulfil that dream one day!

[@JohnMann858]

It would be a good idea to think about how you would disassemble things to make maintenance easier. Any time you can use rivnuts instead of regular nuts will make your life much easier! Especially in those hard to reach areas like the rear of the tanks. Also, don't be afraid to use flush mount screws or bolts to keep cleaner lines.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the recommendation John. Currently just working with the supplied components and bolts, but I am looking into rivnuts for some areas for final assembly.

[@finalcut67]

Love your idea of the double hole saw! I'm sure it'll come handy at some point, thanks for the great solution! Keep up the great vid's, I'm hooked now...!

[@michaeltrufitt5477]

You sorted it in the end well done 😀👍

[@JoelKSLC]

Keep up the good work Dan.

[@wdegiorgio]

Well done and well explained

[@rayclark44]

Hi Dan That was a great video & easy to follow. I sure that a lot more rubber packing on all four sides of the fuel tank would be advisable & possibly some stronger supports each end just incase.. Looking forward to the next installment mate. Take care & stay safe 👍🇬🇧

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks Ray, Appreciate the feedback.

[@rickden8362]

G'day, Dan, still having fun, I see. A couple of questions/comments: -Was this tank within the sill the way they did it in-period? -Was there a bag/blatter option offered instead of the Al tank? -You might want to consider adding some drain holes to the underside of the sills to check for gas leaks. Rubber inserts can plug the holes until a time when you want to inspect. Keep up the good work.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Rick, the tanks in the original GT40s were mounted in the sills, unsure of their construction or fixing though. There was no bladder option that I was advised of. Good idea regarding the drain holes. The rear is sealed off along the base due to the stiffening support, however the front would still leak as it only has a slight obstruction from the bracket and the cover plate that goes on later doesn't full seal it.

[@thezyrex5692]

Worth the wait

[@augnkn93043]

My grandfather flew these in WW2. He said they weren’t very comfortable and he didn’t enjoy the 32 missions he flew.

[@davidmoss8993]

Love this, for me i think after i drill holes for bolts i would countersink rather than use a file, just looks better i think.

[@tonychamberlain8057]

I hope I hear and see you drive this car Dan please !

[@travisfinlayson4137]

the whole saw....... dosen't have to be ideal if it works!!!!! smart

[@dcrahn]

Are there no rubber blocks for the top of the tanks? Otherwise when you hit a good bump you may hear the tank clunking against the top of the sill. They need to be wedged on all four sides.

[@Paul_VanGo]

Indeed a few wedges on top would be a good idea.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the comment, I did think that myself. Especially given the angled side of the tank doesn't really help much to hold the tank down.

[@richardswain9143]

I’d also try and secure the blocks as under continued vibration, if they ‘walk’ your tank will start slopping around in the sill.

[@mariaarthur6868]

And i thought Ikea has bad fitment, great work and courage wished

[@BuiltbyDan]

🤣 thanks for the support!

[@billywhizz98]

Nicely done Dan just a thought can you not put some expandable foam around the rank to stop it vibrating and holding it in place I know you have rubber strips but the foam might be a lot more sturdy and for your brackets can you not use counter sunk machine screws to save not having the bolt heads showing and You might get your panels to fit more flush to the body don’t think for one minute I am telling you how to build it it’s only my suggestion as I worked in Fords motor company carrying on through to jaguar Land Rover and retired after 40 years service

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day William, always open to ideas and suggestions. I'm not exactly experienced in this sort of work so I've just been following the kit build manual. Appreciate there may be better ways of doing some of these installs. At the end of the day, I want a good quality build, so happy to adapt where it can improve things.

[@billywhizz98]

You are doing well cars are like large Lego kits held together by nuts and bolts everything in manufacturing has to be easy to install when they are coming down the production line at 90 cars per hour you don’t get much chance to blink miss one component and it has a knock on effect for the next operators down the line that’s the beauty of what you are doing take your time until you are happy with the parts you are fitting even like you are doing fitting and taking them off to alter or adjust to make them fit perfectly then you know they are being fitted properly

[@rickden8362]

I was thinking expanding foam also, except if he ever needed to remove the a tank it could difficult to near impossible. I'd consider a screw adjustable brace at each end to lock the tanks in place, like a jack screw.

[@benjaminmcgerr810]

Nice work Dan ! Not sure those brackets are the best mounting solution for the tanks I must admit the precision and reliability of the kit is not amazing. I would be so annoyed having to continually re size and cut the chassis to attach parts considering the cost! Keep up the good work 😁

[@matthewpatmore7487]

Nice work Dan :D I’ll admit when I first seen the brackets, I thought they expected you to weld it onto the tank ends and then use the rubber between the bracket and the frame section 🤔 your engineer may suggest this as a solution as it offers a bolt in solution, just my two cents 😂 keep up the videos I enjoy watching them, cheers

[@ronbeckhaus7326]

Dan, great video, mate. I've thought of a possible solution to the dilemma of drilling in tight areas. Have you considered a flexible drive extension for your drill? I have one and it is excellent. As they have a chuck on them, it is also possible to use it as a nut driver, too. Cheers, mate.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the suggestion Ron, I'll have a look into them!

[@graham6229]

I am a bit miffed with the blocks idea. For such a classy and expensive kit build. I would expect all round shock absorber pads for the tanks, say three for each tank or something far better than a variety of thickness rubber pads with none for the top.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Graham, thanks for your ongoing support, this seems to be a similar approach taken by builders of other kits such as the RCR, but as you and others have noted, I think I'll be looking for something to pack out the top of the tank as well.

[@graham6229]

@@BuiltbyDan Doing a great job

[@justar6865]

Nice

[@fwar83]

Asking me to sub and turn on notifications before I've watched a second of your content is asking a lot m8

[@BuiltbyDan]

Apologies mate, I was more thinking of the return viewers that may have not subscribed yet, to be honest I didn't think how it might come across to someone watching for the first time. Thanks for the feedback.

[@jamessneed6318]

I would use expanding foam to fill the voids around the tank so it was supported all the way around. It would make it a nightmare to remove the tank afterwards.

[@fredpinczuk7352]

Thanks for sharing. What's the are/is the expected corrosion inhibitor to be used during the construction? Zinc Chromate spray on? or other?

[@BuiltbyDan]

All mild steel components have been supplied with a gold zinc coating. There are a number of stainless steel components that will be separated by rubber gaskets or zinc based spray on primer.

[@Solo6amers]

Hi Dan, are you consulting with the VASS Engineer if the tank mounting is adequate for certification? I'm a bit surprised how the tanks are fixed and if a front end shunt will keep a fully filled tank from breaking loose because there isn't much material securing it in place.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Not specifically as it took me installing it to work out exactly how it mounted, there was very little detail in the build manual. I have the engineer coming to do first inspection once covid lockdown is lifted.

[@ro63rto]

@@BuiltbyDan Just saw on the news they've announced the lifting of your lockdown.

[@brianhowe2078]

Great videos with good content. Keep up the good work. I hope your are discussing all the changes you are having to make with the manufacturer and pushing for a partial refund for the poor quality. Have you considered the fact that all the modifications your having to make will not interfere with other items in the future which may require further modifications to be made

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks Brian. All modifications I've made have been on the recommendation of the manufacturer, I haven't just been winging it. I have made the manufacturer aware of every issue I have had along the way. Hopefully they update their design for future customers.

[@rayseal9157]

I would be installing hose connectors /bungs I'm thinking still not clearance. I'm thinking a shit kit no quality control. If this is a track car wouldn't u need bladder tanks.. How do you axcess the fuel pump and level sensor,????

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Ray, I will test fit the connections, but I considered the size of them when I determined the size of the hole needed, they don't extend too much wider than the welded in bung. The fuel level sensor is accessible from the top of the tank in the engine bay, and the fuel pump is mounted externally in the engine bay.

[@rayseal9157]

@@BuiltbyDan your doing great its a joy watching you

[@patrickbrown7491]

That alloy classy is impressive, does it come with ADR engineering or as a Individually constructed vehicle?

[@BuiltbyDan]

Engineering will be as an ICV.

[@NiklasJohansson70]

Is that all that will hold the tank? 😨

[@Paul_VanGo]

The tank in your car is probably held on by 4 M8's and two 2x40 straps, so this will do. The location is very 60s, but that's the chance you take.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Per the build manual, yes that's all there is, but as a few people have mentioned I'll be looking to install a rubber block on top as well to stop the tank from lifting as it hits a bump.

[@purplemartinracingteam1750]

i don't think tech would pass me with i could race with that tank. maybe timed laps only. i wonder if they make a race tank?

[@Hazzy238]

Foam filled for race in case of side impact?

[@BuiltbyDan]

Unfortunately I wasn't really looking at building it as a track car so I didn't really consider any such options.

[@ezacher4634]

No idea why after switching suppliers they didn't do a test fit. More rubber supports and using rivets for holding it in place would be better. Looks like filler and vent are both in passenger compartment? Look into dry break fitting for lines on the tank in case of a crash.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for the suggestion on the dry break fittings, will look into them. There is a filler and breather on both driver and passenger side as tanks can be filled individually (there is a cross syphon between tanks with a shut-off valve in engine bay). Fuel filters and pump only connect to passenger side tank.

[@Richard-wk9le]

I sure hope those tanks are baffled, because 100+ pounds of gas is a lot of force, I would check the mounting after a few hundred miles of driving.

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Richard, yes the tanks have double baffles in each. I think I'll be doing a once over on the entire car after a few hundred miles, just to be sure everything is holding up as it should.

[@blindtoby8967]

Simeone foundation gt40 tech talk. I assume you've seen this video on KZbin ? These things seem to be well engineered .

[@BuiltbyDan]

Yes! I've watched that a few times to get some ideas.

[@marcoh6618]

No loctite on the nuts and bolts holding the tanks in place?

[@BuiltbyDan]

Nyloc nuts are used on almost every bolt in this kit, where required, loctite or antiseize will be used in final assembly.

[@bekamsxvilidze3147]

👍

[@bencooper7944]

Is there any chance you can do away with the constant recaps of what happened in the last 30 seconds.

[@JeanJean-wh7jy]

Hi Dan, Could you tell me where you buy your gt40 kit ?! Thanks

[@BuiltbyDan]

The kit is from Absolute Pace in Queensland Australia.

[@JeanJean-wh7jy]

@@BuiltbyDan 😘🙏🏻 Thank you for your answer. why does this company have a bad google rating do you worry?

[@BuiltbyDan]

I think the google reviews answer the why. Is it concerning, yea it is a little bit, but I figure every manufacturer has their pros and cons.

[@blindtoby8967]

Did you fill & check the tanks for leaks ?

[@BuiltbyDan]

I did not. The manufacturer did undertake a pressure test on the tanks though.

[@norgeek]

Surprised they didn't just use the rocker panel as the tank, instead of stuffing a smaller tank inside it.. I'd think a thicker aluminium sheet for the tank body would serve the same overall purpose? 🤔

[@BuiltbyDan]

My only thought is that having the removable tank inside the rocker panel provides for an additional layer of protection for the tank, just having the fuel in the rocker panel could be troublesome in a side impact.

[@mattmeyer9012]

Can I ask what this kit cost you. I'm looking to do the same

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day Matt, the complete kit delivered cost around AUD100k.

[@mattmeyer9012]

@@BuiltbyDan thank you, love the videos.

[@Michele.t]

What a bad kit, they really didn't pay too much attention engineering it 😤

[@graham6229]

I tend to agree with you especially for that sort of money. Rubber blocks and un finished brackets ! Good job Dan however.

[@milanduic9565]

Sorry have to comment now tank twisted while weldin and I would have tested the tanks with air you do realise that's a inpact zone

[@BuiltbyDan]

I've not pressure tested the tanks myself, but they were tested by the manufacturer following fabrication. I understand that they are located in an impact zone, but this is the design of the GT40 from the 1960's. Appreciate this would not be acceptable in a modern production vehicle.

[@johnwilliams-sc1vf]

why are you using all those washers also I would have used pan head screws instead of hex head bolts

[@BuiltbyDan]

G'day John, I'm basically just assembling the car with the supplied fixings from the kit manufacturer.

[@JohnSmith-hr3gv]

Buy yourself some de-burring tools seeing as you drill a lot of holes.

[@outlawflyer7868]

I know this is late, but next time use cooking spray for when you need to slide anything rubber against metal. Why wouldn't they build bigger tanks ? Seems your losing about 5-10 gallons per side with the size of tanks you got. What happened to you and your partner building this together? You sure could have used some extra hands. I would take some rubber fuel line and cut a slit down one side and use those as protectors around the fitting hole to keep your rubber fuel lines from chafing. Please tell me you reversed your bolts to were they are down, not up.

[@BuiltbyDan]

Thanks for your comment, the cooking spray suggestion is a great idea. The missus decided to manage the video editing and social media side of things once we realised everything didn't simply bolt together and required fabrication. She does help out occasionally. I'll be using rubber grommets or aluminium sleeves to protect the fuel lines. When I pull the tanks out next I'll grab one of the side sill body panels to make sure there will be enough clearance with the bolts facing down.

[@outlawflyer7868]

@Built by Dan hey Dan. Thanks for getting back to me. Excuse for saying this, but when you say partner, we here in states think you mean " PARTNER" if you ketch my drift, not misses. Doesn't matter either way. Lol. I was confused though. Looking forward to see the car done. Do you have a name for your car?

[@bozobaz30]

Poor manufacturing of a poor design

[@bear_vibes5130]

You can afford a gt40 kit. Why not buy better tools. Robinson drills.

[@bear_vibes5130]

Auto spell sucks. Ryobi.

[@BuiltbyDan]

I know they are an entry level tool, but I've had them for quite some time and they have done everything I needed them to do. Having said that, it would be nice to have some more adjustability of settings which are available with the higher spec brands.