Guide to 3D Printing Filament! PLA ABS PETG TPU PEEK ULTEM

Matt from Printed Solid takes us through many types of 3d printing filaments - including PLA, ABS, PETG, PEEK, ULTEM, PVB, TPU, and more!
#3dprinting #3dprinting101 #filament
0:45 PLA
2:00 ABS
03:16 PETG
04:38 Nylon
06:25 Carbon Fiber Nylon
06:58 TPU/TPE
09:50 Poly Carbonate
11:08 PVB
12:30 PVA ("Glue Sticks")
13:38 BVOH
15:20 PEEK
16:40 ULTEM (PEI)
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[@johnhopkins6260]

0:45 PLA 2:00 ABS 03:16 PETG 04:38 Nylon 06:25 Carbon Fibre Nylon 06:58 TPU/TPE 09:50 PolyCarbonate 11:08 PVB 12:30 PVA ("Glue Sticks") 13:38 BVOH 15:20 PEEK 16:40 ULTEM (PEI)

[@3DPrintingNerd]

THANK YOU for this. Will pin.

[@Kenopy]

what I like is that you don't ask for likes and provide useful information.

[@richhobo4449]

E

[@Rafaelguitarplayer]

Not Every hero use's cape. Thank you my friend.

[@goddamnmaddog2024]

8:27 Destruction XD

[@EpicLPer]

8:26 - "This is also a TPU but you cannot flex him at all" > Nerd flexes it > Breaks it instantly

[@outcast341]

This is why can't have nice things!

[@joshuartaylor30]

HAHAHAHA...Was just gonna comment. Why I don't hand most my 3D prints to friends. "Wow this took 60 hours to print, what happens if I apply pressure.....?"

[@HB-ps6rn]

"Oh"

[@linagee]

If someone ever does this, the correct response is: Weird flex, but ok. :-)

[@FireheadLazzo]

It was an innocent mistake. No foul.

[@the_average_canadian]

"Maybe we should revisit this in a year or two" Well well well, here we are two years later and I'm just getting into the hobby! I'd love to see an up-to-date revision, this was very informative.

[@vince7189]

ditto

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Planning the trip right now in fact!

[@the_arcanum]

Check Zack Freedman YT, he did an excellent recap lately !

[@OokamiMurasaki]

@@3DPrintingNerd can't find the updated video, or hasn't it been produced yet?.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Not yet. Haven’t been able to get back out to Printed Solid

[@eingelvf]

8:27 in the store touchin everything and u break something and act like nothing happened lol

[@3DPrintingNerd]

I'm like a bull in a china shop!

[@CarolinaCowboys]

Best part of the video - "You cannot bend him at all, 'crack' "😂

[@Torsan1977]

Now that's a guy who know what he's talking about. Thanks for the comprehensive list!

[@sprizidaire6639]

!

[@pinklemonade2014]

13:45 The "OH" in BVOH comes from the fact that in chemistry alcohols have a hydroxyl (-OH) part in the molecule.

[@Mehecanogeesir]

Did 3DPN just break that guy's print? lol 8:39

[@FilamentFriday]

That was ... just awesome. Great summary, great pace, tons of knowledge and experience. I’ll be referring a lot of people to this video.

[@buttersstotch2014]

Love your channel man

[@maricarcalero9077]

This is the best and most informative video I've watched regarding materials for 3D printing. The video was straight forward and easy to understand even for beginners and dummy like myself. Excellent video and thank you.

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Thank YOU

[@dbtest117]

@@3DPrintingNerd If I now only knew which printer to get. I’m pretty sure I want to be able to print with Nylon and maybe PC besides PLA. I can’t find any video reviewing printers with those requirements :/. Good information in this video keep it up.

[@scatwater]

@Kenny Eaton Thank you for the info!! 3 months later. I just bought a printer a couple of days ago and just soaking up all the info..

[@dennisk147]

@@scatwater my suggestion, don't try to rush to the high temp materials. Just take it slow and make sure you got a chunk of experience with PLA. After that you will find it easy to test out with PETG too to get a variation. If you have a good direct drive printer you could even step up towards TPU/TPE if you like. But already become aware that this will be a big step up in experience and information needed to get to work. But as said before, enclosure is needed for PC/ ABS and you need something to keep moisture out of the filament if you want to print nylon. So as I said, take it easy. Will be a long, but enjoyable, road ;)

[@scatwater]

@@dennisk147 TY I am looking forward to this.. Currently watching my 3rd print. lol The ideas and possiablies seem endless. I bought printer to get to see if I could make parts for a organ we got for my wife for free. Its just a little square piece with tabs. Looks pretty simple. Currently just learning about materials and the basics. Im not in a hurry. :)

[@dennisk147]

"Maybe we should review this video in a year or two" I am reminding you for it, would love to see it ;)

[@lazyrobotlabs]

Just came here to mention that Matt was so dang informative that I ended up looking up his company that he works for out of curiousity, and ended up grabbing their filament vacuum set, just to support this dudes paycheck cause he f@$#ing deserves it, big ups.

[@ericrichter1934]

You forgot ASA better UV resistance then ABS and just as strong.

[@matthewgorton4111]

Yeah, we missed a few. This video wasn't part of our original plan for that weekend, but glad we squeezed it in last minute. ASA was a big one to leave out. I do like ASA and it's one I recommend a lot when people are looking for UV resistance. It's probably worth nothing that you also get a nice boost in UV resistance with UV resistant filler like carbon fiber and you don't get the styrene fumes when printing.

[@quentinrufin4025]

Regarding peek: Extruder Temp: 375 - 410°C Bed Temp: 130 - 145°C Requires enclosure

[@marianocurti7032]

ez

[@WrexShepard]

So basically I'm gonna need an all metal hot end with a badass heater and thermocouple, a mains heated bed, and an enclosure? Yeesh. My ender is bad ass now but not THAT bad ass lol.

[@jamesdavis4908]

Why doesn't anyone print or review HIPS filament? I like using it better then ABS! It's cheaper then ABS, doesn't have the problem of needing to be printed in an enclosed environment, and is extremely easy to sand to a mirror surface. WHY DOESN'T ANYONE TALK ABOUT THIS STUFF??

[@Duraltia]

@16:14 PEEK _"How Expensive?" - "Typically $100..."_ That sounds reasonable my Form² Resin cost about €135 per Liter _"per 100g"_ *LIKE WUT?!!*

[@ChesuMori]

Why have you crammed poor Matt in a corner like that.

[@willierants5880]

Because Joel wouldn't fit. ;)

[@Demoni696]

They can't run away if you pin em in a corner :P

[@anonimuso]

Nobody puts Baby in a corner.

[@fpvtrys2632]

this his happy place! ❤️

[@Trishlicious]

And he looks stiff as a print.

[@Terror-Gene]

Please make a video on the Klipper Firmware! pretty much no reputable youtubers have really made a video discussing the pros & cons. I'm about to receive my V6 & BMG & plan on setting up Direct Drive on my CR-10S. I was looking into Marlin features like Linear Advance, S Curve Acceleration, & Junction Deviation But I've just come across the Klipper Firmware & discovered that the small detailed movements that i see the printer kind of pause on could be resolved by using Klipper... but does Klipper have any similar features to the ones I was looking at in Marlin?!

[@virallifefacts8979]

The reason the petg filament goes around the nozzle is because the nozzle is not hot enough. I heat my nozzle around 240* and it works perfect 👌🏻

[@johnxzx9139]

Great video! Thank you. I just got into printing and no idea there were so many filament options.👍

[@yvesduchesneau2206]

I am presently shopping for a new 3D printer but there are so many. I presently print ABS with a Solidoodle4 and the results are just OK. Most of my parts are for model airplanes. I would like to print PC and nylon and if possible Glass or carbon reinforced materials. What whould be a printer of choice for this? I am looking for best combination and ease of operatin, software and hardware. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

[@mlubecke]

This was amazing 😉. Thank you !! Matt knows his stuff..... these videos help our community so much.....

[@antalz]

I'm really happy to see a video like this but without the inaccuracies that are propagated in many other places. I did miss HIPS though, and I'm still wondering what the point of that stuff is. PP is also missing.

[@reynaff4761]

We need some US testers to test PETG,Someone want to try? PM me

[@TheHiddenPearl]

Hi, I have these two questions, if you can help answer, I appreciate: 1- I create pictures on autocad to turn it into format compatible for Cura Slices, but they are flat, how can the 3d printer make it into an object with 3D dimensions? I mean how I can do? the thickness needs to be specified? 2- Does this print have a range of max and min sizes of objects it can bring? well, i would like if there is a details manual about all these, but the manual when I bought the machine does not say or I miss somewhere?

[@robertd654]

Very informative video....Keep up the great work Matt...I love my Maker Box each month!

[@Tapajara]

Why is HDPE not in the list? It is the best option for recycling.

[@UNSCPILOT]

As a PETG user, can verify even when you get the stringing under control there are plastic boogers everywhere, but clear PETG looks darn pretty and is wonderfully strong, it's also fun to be able to tell people that I'm printing from nearly the same plastic as your everyday water bottle. Also bought a roll of ABS when I got my printer (Anet A8) but even a couple years on I don't really even want to try printing it when PETG offers similar or better preformance in many aspects. And yes, PLA is probably here to stay, forever, I don't think anyone will be finding a viable or equally versitile replacement for it anytime soon.

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

HIPS (high-impact polystyrene): From personal experience, it's a good ABS-compatible support. It can be dissolved (sort of-- you need regular agitation and a lot of time, and if you soak ABS in it too long it will soften) in d-limonene, but you would only do that if the void supported by HIPS is more than a simple gap-- most of the time you can cut into it with a sturdy pair of wire cutters and then just pull it off. The guys at Raise3D cautioned against using HIPS because d-limonene, while not as nasty as THF or acetone, can be easily ignited. Being one of the styrene materials, HIPS has the same VOC/particulate emission concerns as ABS-- because the extrusion and bed temps are essentially the same as ABS, you'd want to print the whole shebang in an enclosure with an air filter. I've made ~30-40 big supported prints with ABS/HIPS, and when the print is finished, it peels off like Velcro. Fun stuff. I haven't tried to make an actual structural part with HIPS, mainly because I've found that it doesn't like to stick to BuildTak. I've heard that it's surprisingly stiff/strong. I've also been told that you can just leave HIPS lying around because it's not hygroscopic at all.

[@superdupergrover9857]

i wouldn't say d-limonene is less nasty than acetone. acetone has an extremely low toxicity, albeit not quite as low as d-limonene. the EPA does not consider acetone to be a VOC. d-limonene is by itself an irritant and allergen, yet its chemical instability causes it to easily oxidize, at room temperatures, into a powerful allergen and sensitizer to allergic reactions in general. that said, there is not nearly as much data on d-limonene as there for acetone.

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

@@superdupergrover9857 The Raise3D guys told me that after a customer took one look at the datasheet for d-limonene, they were like "Nope! NOPE!" and decided to never use HIPS. So far I've never needed d-limonene even though I have a bottle of it in storage.

[@riakata]

Given how the studies are going everyone without direct exhaust fume hood should not print ABS like materials without proper engineering controls. Be careful with enclosures and air filter as there are a number of requirements for it to work properly. You need to negatively pressurize the enclosure for it to work properly and the exhaust even if partial recirculating to reduce makeup air requirements you must still exhaust it outside the building. HEPA and cheap carbon filters won't work for long or properly trap all the UFPs and VOCs you would need a big ULPA and deep bed carbon filter (very heavy) to capture all the VOCs/UFPs in a semi-recirculating system. For hobby use these kinds of safety requirements are too much so it is simpler to just not recommend it as it is unlikely all hobbyists can make a proper fume extraction or filtration system that is effective. For a home user you should just have a duct with a very strong powerful fan sucking air out of the enclosure (100% exhaust) and out a window be very careful though that you get fresh air from somewhere else and your exhaust does not just get sucked back into your house this removes the need for very expensive filters that need constant maintenance. (Use a roof vent ideally) If you do not regularly replace the activated carbon media filter breakthrough could occur and the activated carbon will just start releasing the adsorbed VOCs. Even when the activated carbon is not in use the VOCs will slowly migrate through the media which means timed replacement is also required. This can quickly become very expensive for hobby level purposes. Even in industrial applications unless emissions exceed regulations direct exhaust with the solution is dilution is the economical way about it. (Your heating or cooling costs will rise though)

[@titaniumapple1]

What printer did you print ABS and HIPS with, UM3? I tried but couldn't get the right settings, could you share your settings files? Thanks!

[@colinfindlay4790]

I was surprised to see HIPS was left off too! I like it a lot - functional parts are light, easy to post-process and easy to glue (Unlike PETG) Printing is roughly the same as ABS for temps. But... very thin sections can fatigue and break.

[@GCTWorks]

Any thoughts on ASA? I know it is a more UV resistant material than ABS, but I do not know much else about it or how is prints.

[@EandEDesign]

ASA is extremely similar to ABS (same family). You can use an ABS profile but typically run the nozzle a bit hotter (around 250C). ASA has great UV resistance (unlike ABS) and it is inherently low gloss (unlike ABS which is high gloss)

[@MeinElektronikHobby]

... danke für dieses Video. Nach meiner Meinung eines der Besten, die auf Deinem Kanal produziert wurden. Ich wünsche Dir ein erfolgreiches jahr 2019 ...thanks for this video. In my opinion one of the best produced on your channel. I wish you a successful year 2019.

[@ADFilmsTV]

dude was crying inside when that crack happended 8:20 fr its true I saw his heart melt, his mood was down at first then weird . If you agree sub to my channel

[@nickanderson8305]

He I was pulling my hair out wondering why my PETG kept oozing everywhere on my hotend

[@BergyVlogs15]

me toooo lol. do you have bed adhesion issues with your PETG? ive played with settings alot and cant seem to get it adhear like I want it. so for now i've gone back to PLA.

[@tHaH4x0r]

@@BergyVlogs15 I do not know what kind of bed you are using, but I had lots of trouble with bed adhesion as well. In the end it was simply solved with cranking up the bed temperature. I print on a clean mirror with no additives or whatever, and with 65 degrees it would keep peeling up, 75 was hit or miss but 85 is rock solid. When the bed is still warm its hard to get the print of by hand, and have to wait until the bed is cooled down before prying it off. Also, I feel PETG is a lot more sensitive to good bed leveling. Hope it helps you somehow if you are still struggling with it!

[@AlphaOneDesigns]

@@tHaH4x0r would have steel nozzle help vs a copper one ?

[@JbassPlayer28]

failed to mention one of the huge things about Nylon, it is susceptible to hydrolysis which makes it weaker and brittle when it absorbs moisture from the air

[@martinpirringer8055]

What About HIPS? I will try printing some instead of ABS on my Pulse. As for PLA and cars. If you print PLA on a bed at over 80 C and and enclosure and the print takes more than 2 hours and you leave the enclosure closed until the bed cools into the low 30s you have printted annealed PLA and it will hold shape until up to 150 c. It will be less brittle and less stiff. It will feel kinda like ABS and yield a bit before breaking. And yes if you have good bed adhesion it will hold its dimensions.

[@MMuraseofSandvich]

Joel did a video on PLA annealing not long ago, for a gear shifter handle.

[@martinpirringer8055]

@@MMuraseofSandvich I must have missed that one. We are still experimenting with it as we have 3 printers. A Matterhackers Pulse and in school 2 Makerbot Replicator+. Unfortunately the replicator+ are PLA only and no heated bed. We would like to use them too. On he Pulse which is a Prusa clone we got a garolite plate E3d V6 etc so can print all kinds of things. Using the Makerbots would be helpful but unannealed PLA is useless for us. We are printing a 32x30x55in or something close to that FRC (FIRST Robotics Competition) style robot that can weigh up to 150lb. So standard PLA is too brittle. Now annealing PLA will change dimensions. So initial tests have shown that you can make and "Anneal Print" on the pulse with a cage a PLA mold then you place the makerbot PLA part into the mold and anneal it at about 150-180F. Works fine an the part maintains dimension only the anneal printed PLA mold "wears out " after 5-6 uses simply cause it gets overcome sooner or later by the warping force of the part being annealed as most of them are 267x54x45mm and the Makerbot PLA is super warpy. I tried Nylon for molds but I'd probably would have to make them realy thick as the PLA during annealing bends them and yes after cool down when you remove the PLA part the nylon mold straightens back out but you still got a warped PLA part so we might have to go a combination of PLA and Steel or aluminum to combat the warping. But that will be on hold for a couple of months Saturday is the reveal and start for the FRC season and we will have 6 weeks to build above described bot. We will post updates on how that goes on our new channel. So wish us luck maybe this is the year for the very first 3D Printed FRC style Robot to compete.

[@repairfreak]

Martin Pirringer Yes what about HIPS? I was thinking of trying this for parts that need to withstand summer heat inside a car. Will this material print as smoothly as PLA in my cheapo Anycubic Kossel delta style printer? Thanks

[@martinpirringer8055]

@@repairfreak IDK I have a pulse. It probably depends on what you do and what kind of nozzle/hotend you have. I use the Hobbyking variety. As a matter of fact we (FRC team 1989) Like it so much we cleaned out their US warehouse think bought/used about 12 kg (There is more in Hong Kong and we might order the 14kg require to get free shipping as it sells between $10-12/kg) I print with a .8mm Nozzle at 55mm/s (ABS speed) and have the temp at 270. Out of the 13 kg I had 2 parts warp. I print on a garolite plate with gluestick bed temp at 100C on those 2 parts I tried to not apply glue stick before every print or just refresh it with a damp towel. So it needs glue stick and 100C and I also got a cheap enclosure set over it IDK if it makes a difference but we print tons of ABS and it makes a big difference there. I like it better than ABS. It still smells a little but less than ABS and I would suggest to still have the area well ventilated. Compared to ABS it has a little more Flex so it will give a bit before braking and man its tough. Not quite Nylon Tough but much better for brackets than ABS. We had a hollow hex tube with 4mm walls 1/2 in id (to take a hex reenforcement shaft) and a Rack attached to it and it took 340 in/lb without a problem (We can't test higher cause the current tester we sometimes have access to maxes out at that) Its currently the 2nd best material we have for gears (after Nylon) It is in the process of replacing PETG and ABS for a lot of mechanical things. Well and selling for 10-12 bucks a kg helps lots with the budget. Granted the hobby king ABS sells in the same price range and is pretty good but not as good as this HIPS. Will do a video on my channel on it as soon as we get a breather. Right now all efforts are dedicated towards building our robot. Right now Im printing it faster than I can get it.

[@jacko6133]

8:25 "you can not bend him" *breaks it*

[@fpvtrys2632]

I love these weirdoes' ! Nice video too!

[@EandEDesign]

BVOH is less moisture sensitive unlike PVA which can absorb moisture very quickly from the environment. BVOH has higher temperature resistance compared to PVA and works well with higher temp materials like ABS

[@usertogo]

A comprehensive test of magnetic materials (thinkable one that has its Curie temperature in the printing range) would be nice and also one really comparing general ferromagnetic filaments on real numbers or magnetic hysteresis curves, Then to spawn an idea for a contest on the question - how many years from 2019 superconductor filament will appear?

[@TheHiddenPearl]

hope in the future there are versions that can print from materials rather than just plastic or similarities of plastics; others are like metals, silicones, woods, etc.

[@jakegarrett8109]

They do have metal printers, but the cost is extremely high. I'm thinking about testing some concepts with them as they are very close, and I've got $1k to mess around with and buy stupid powerful lasers just for lols to see if I can do any better. Wood is not something you can melt, you could only grow it, and people have grown wood into shapes they've wanted for many many generations, so you sort of can. Silicone you can print a mold for, then make your part (unless you mean shoving it into a syringe like they do for printing chocolate or clay.

[@NH-po8wr]

"You cant push a rope" Love it!!

[@-robo-]

Yes you can. But you have to freeze it first.

[@-robo-]

Yes you can. But you have to freeze it first.

[@zioxei]

@@-robo- there is always that one smartass nobody asked for

[@-robo-]

@@zioxei What is the alternative? Dumbass? Which do you prefer? (expecting a smartass answer... waiting... waiting...)

[@isahak8644]

3:32 poor stewie

[@saksupport8747]

Make a video with strength test of matrial, i should watich it. This video is good so thumbs up from Säksupport from Sweden =) =)

[@chainmaillekid]

Wish PETG would overtake PLA. Such a great material, and you can take it outside and it won't melt in the sun.

[@Hunikengt]

Awesome episode, I'm a rookie to 3D printing and this helped me alot!

[@Demoni696]

Great starter guide for all the people who got printers for the holidays! PLA all the way as your primer into the world of 3d printing, so easy and forgiving. I got pushed into the deep end learning with ABS (wish I knew about this channel back then). Spent more time tuning the printer and being disappointed with failed prints vs getting that initial encouragement of success. Granted I learned a lot of lessons but not everyone is persistent or stubborn as I am.

[@MukiFPV]

So if i wanted to print a a hinge for 3/4 inch pvc pipe, that needs to be flexible and strong. I have a MP miniselect v2 what material would you recommend?

[@NipkowDisk]

This is MUCH better than watching a movie at the Crest Theatre! (quite near my old stomping grounds) Subscribed.

[@cjoe5977]

I went to printed solid hq today they were super nice

[@FlowersForYou629]

lol he broke the f** out of that print. I'm dead now

[@StopChangingUsernamesYouTube]

Oh yeah, I remember the PETG boogers fondly. Couldn't figure it out for weeks (was new to printing at the time), but I kept having parts print fine until the infill really started, and then some blackened mess would fall off the block and find its way into the infill, too carbonized to really melt again easily, cause a layer shift when the nozzle knocked it the next time around, and basically confuse and scare me like a caveman seeing fire for the first time. The consistent part there was that I was either printing PETG, or had switched to another material after PETG. Nowadays, my pre-flight check involves heating and taking a brass brush to the block and nozzle.

[@jameshanveyakageekyraptors1118]

What about ASA filament, I'm guessing they felt it was not worth mentioning it even though it is UV stable filament and great for making custom outdoor sculptures and planters. Also there are probably others they forgot to mention but I was not keeping track, I merely felt ASA filament was a particularly glaring oversight for a filament review list. I'm a huge fan of your videos nonetheless 3d printing nerd!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

This was a super last minute video and we forgot!

[@jameshanveyakageekyraptors1118]

Edit: petg isn't as solar resistant as ASA but it is still very heat resistant and easier to print than abs

[@mariom9399]

Thanks for the vid. You guys forgot about one very good material with very unique properties which is PP (PolyPropylene) - mostly as a printing filament it's a PP+PE copolimer. I've printed PP and it is a very nice material that can be used for a lot of things that need to be strong or semi flex or high temp resistant or chemical resistant. I found it really usefull and quite easy to print with extremly good layer adhesion.

[@stratman1234]

What a great video. I've always been overwhelmed with all of the material choices. That helped a lot.

[@rfournerat]

Love to see the same topic, but for resin materials.

[@ivangutowski]

For someone researching what filament to buy, this is an invaluable video. The best parts are the comparisons between each back and forth, plus small notes about it being a faff to print with.. So much experience here.. invaluable. Thank you

[@g.s.3389]

amazing video, it would be nice to make a video with Matt on how to fine tune a printer for PETG and ABS.

[@NullBlox]

Im still watching and hear Nylon is hard to print. I have to disagree. I print with Nylon and only had to adjust temps thats it. So not very complicated to use.

[@antalz]

What is your bed adhesion method and temperature?

[@rileyfenley522]

I haven’t used much nylon, but I know it really needs to be dry to print. There are also different nylons that print easier than others

[@RSpudieD]

Vert informative! Also, I like that Daft Punk helmet up there!

[@jasond.valentine5931]

I know this is kind of an old video, but i would like to express my gratitude. All this knowledge condensed would have taken a lot of time out of my day just to be aware of all the listed filaments. Thank you gentlemen for your great explainations and exposition!

[@3DPrintingNerd]

Aww thank you for the kind words!

[@dadandme]

3 years after, this video is still perfectly right! I mainly use PLA, PLA+ (pro), PETG and TPU.

[@diagonalskyline]

Two related bits polymer chemistry from a materials engineer to supplement all the practical info from Matt & Joel: BVOH - "OH" is the chemical abbreviation for any generic alcohol because of the -OH hydroxyl group that makes it an alcohol. Not sure why it's abbreviated BVOH while PVA uses "A" for alcohol though. PEEK - polymer names aren't usually creative, they just describe the structure of the polymer chain. Matt was correct in that it is polyether ether ketone with two ethers because each monomer has two ethers (and a ketone). Polyether ketone (PEK) and polyether ketone ketene (PEKK) (and others) exist as well.

[@kevinm3751]

Great information here, thanks a ton for doing this interview. So after listening to all this I still am not sure what would best serve my need. I am a modeler and currently use an SLA printer but it can be cost prohibitive due to the high cost of resin. What options are out there for a filament that will render great detail with the least amount of finish work necessary? Focus being on clarity of print at small detail and ability to stand the test of glues, paints and of course time.

[@JakeWitmer]

...Might be helpful to compare the PEEK to the only other material in this list that's remotely in the same use/strength category, Nylon+carbon fiber (chopped and continuous). ...People making arts and crafts prints don't need to know how PEEK compares to the price of ABS, because they weren't remotely considering using it. ...People considering printing high-strength stuff with Nylon+CCF might want to know. In fact, finding decent comparisons of "high-strength 3D print materials" online (in one place) isn't that easy. How does "top of the line laser metal fusion" compare to PEEK and Nylon+CCF? (So we can know how long we have to wait for Moore's law type computation advances to really benefit the end-user...)

[@elfenmagix8173]

No HIPS (High Impact PolyStyrene)? Basically the same styrofoam used in car bumpers. Can be used as is or as a soluable support for other materials like ABS. Prints within the same temp setting as ABS but it is softer than ABS. Funny... I built a Toy Rep Rap 3D printer (with Nema 17 mods) using HIPS and after a while the various parts that moved started to deform... LOL! Replaced those parts with ABS printed parts and 👍 Oh! The smell while printing! Smells like a styrofoam cup with way too hot water/coffee/tea in it! Ha Ha!

[@kaizentechnic7962]

Great video, very informative. I haven't rendered in years, looking to brush up on this and this helped a lot. I also am in the PNW!

[@prongATO]

@3DPrintingNerd what filament is as good as Prusa’s? I have a Mini and want to stick with Prusa materials for now because I am a complete newbie. I did get spools of Prusa PETG filament for printing the base and other accessories for the Mini but don’t want to have to pay for overseas shipping for every filament order. I can hardly find Prusament here in the States and when I do, the price is crazy (like 75.00 a spool instead of 29.99j

[@microArc]

the OH in BVOH is the organic/chemistry abbreviation for the Oxygen+Hydrogen (hydroxy) group that represents the alcohol group. for a more common example, organic chemists will abbreviate ethyl alcohol (as in drinking alcohol in beer/wine) as ETOH.

[@onlyvids]

prusa mks2 or cr10s pro?wich you recommend me?

[@JJ-vp3bd]

What printer u get

[@mist4620]

"I'm thinking that maybe the way that it was printed was not optimal" No shit, 3DPN's not exactly winning any strongman competitions. ahaha

[@octogames6823]

I know this is an old video but what good info on filaments. I have a printer in the mail so I was going to buy filament and hit a brick wall, haha. I had an idea what I was looking for and a good understanding the types of prints but OMG soooo many filament brands ,types, colors, textures like wood and carbon fiber. Ugh. So many choices. Ty for the knowledge, I will be picking up a roll of PLA, PETG and TPU, that should cover all my current projects atm :D

[@jeron9272]

Should I print with PETG or PLA? PETG is cheap, PLA is a little more expensive. I want to print like nerf mods and just normal stuff, stands, gear bearing PETG or PLA?

[@KLP99]

Can PET-G be used in place of ABS? In other words is PET-G a solid product to use if you want things that last long, stay structurally sound, handle higher heats, and you don't want to mess with the fumes of ABS? For example, if you want to 3D print a spatula your wife can print with, what would you use? Can the new product, ASA, be used in place of PET-G and ABS and is it safer and if so how much safer? And is it easy to print?

[@adailtonnascimento1650]

I guys , can u guys tell me what are the best filament to print in home?, I have my 3d printer inside my room next to my work desk and actually I print only using PLA. Now I know that ABS is not good to health and on this video the only one that they mentioned as harmful is ABS. can I print PLA, nylon, PETG in home safely? Thank u in advance :D PS: I loved the video.

[@fooman2108]

I know that there are specific brands (especially of PLA (matter hackers)) if a manufacturer makes 'good' PLA, do you also think they make good filament(s) with other plastic(s)?

[@igordekiparis]

Question: is it possible to coat PLA prints with something to prevent degradation?

[@colsoyeti1]

The best 19 minutes spent learning about the variety of filament available the their pros and cons. I thank you for this informative video and hope to see a remake of it covering newer filaments. Is there a filament compartibilty matrix that details hotend types and nozzles that can be used? open question to all and thanks in advance.

[@ohmythatsweird]

You should try MWC . Its has exceptional tear strength, crush resistance is very good, and I believe its impervious to chemical and structural breakdown . MWC= My Wifes Cooking

[@comments.are.turned.off...]

Humans: We really need to stop using so much plastic and making so much useless rubbish. Also Humans: Now everybody make make stuff!!!

[@fuzzypanda2804]

Wanting to do gaming dice and D&D figures. What filament would be best? I was thinking of just using PLA but it seems like it'd be pretty brittle and break when rolled (I know the balance would be off making 3D printed dice) I think the figures would be better suited to PLA.

[@propfella]

I'd like to know which printers can One latprint with which materials. Of a printer is made to print PLA what other filaments can it use. Plus (for a friend) can he use 3mm filament in a 1.75mm printer by simply changing the nozzle? One last question. To Matt's right in the lower shelf there's a light blue very metallic looking knight. What is the name of the filament and which colour? My wife spotted it and fell on love with the colour. I have a friend who lives 200km away and he often calls in for a cuppa and offered to print me anything as long as I bought the filament. This would be our choice, as long as he can print with it.

[@susielipps8765]

I’m looking for help/suggestions. I have a cat corner scratcher that my cats love. My issue now is one of the cats developed an allergy to plastic. No one makes them plastic free so now I’m trying to figure out how to make one. This video is really helpful but I have zero knowledge on any of these materials. Can anyone tell me if/what materials are plastic free? Or maybe a recommendation? ANY suggestions would be helpful. Thank you.

[@tekkboxxindustries366]

Thanks for the helpful tips

[@richardhodges872]

Hi I bought some TPU to print some flexible fittings like model car tyres eg rubber style bits, but received PLA-f. Its suggested that this is the same. Is this true do you think ? Thanks Richard

[@not_riley]

Hi Joel, am i supposed to run a part fan with PETG? I read that it should be off or very low. I can see the part fan running at 3:50

[@vikashkumar-cr7ee]

Hi I am looking for a flexible transparent filament. TPE/TPU could be one of the options. But it lost transparency after printing. Could someone suggest to me post-processing to make it clearer? or suggest me some alternative.

[@pr0xZen]

Maybe there's a way of crystallizing flexibles in the filament production process, without permanently altering material properties? Or could such filament be skin tempered? Maybe some inert or compatible coating rigid enough to survive extruder push and retraction when cold, that blend with or gets absorbed by the material when going through the hotend and nozzle?

[@kurtlindner]

8:29 Time for some CA. This was a really good Podcast format, I'd really like to hear Matt talk more about his perspective on the supplier side, like how at the end the questions became more open ended.

[@tri-forceblades3123]

I am looking to start doing lost wax investment casting to make jewelry. I need detailed molds and was seeing where people were using their 3D printers to make the " wax " consumable out of the filament. My question is, would PLA be the best choice for this application or can you direct me in a different direction?

[@arowe231]

Well, great. The material I want for what I want to make is the most expensive...PEEK...go figure. BTW great video.

[@alexmills1329]

Based on what I've seen CF PEEK is a better printer or use PEKK... But yeah thats a very expensive taste 😂

[@sttm1283]

everyone saying the fumes is worst with ABS. my nose might be scent free of any odor(the fact that i spent 15yrs of my youth spraying grafitti, and have been working as a painter for over 20 yrs), i smell burnt plastic but thats about it.

[@asdomega]

One year is over, time to revisit the topic !

[@JJ-vp3bd]

What printer you use

[@natashashark85]

I use Overture PETG quite a bit, needs to be hot for sure but I haven't noticed it on my Ender3 yet. I'm on my third reel now and still goin great. Requires going much slower though.

[@vencibushy]

We use PEEK at work all the time. For now we only do machining but soon we will be getting a 3D printer for it. It truly is a bad ass engineering material. Sometimes it's hard to believe it's really a plastic.

[@DerekMatthews]

Good information @3D Printing Nerd

[@gozillasin9934]

Interesting contents BUT this vide has minor background noise. I gave up to watching at 8 min. My ears hurt....

[@BLACKSYNTH]

I would dissagree with TPU not for heat resistance. in my testing I can put PLA in a boiling pan of water and use a potato masher to squish it, TPU (95a-100A) the few types I use seems to have no degradation after 5 mins of hard boiling. I don't know why this is but I tested it and it retains shape and structural integrity. and imposssible to deform it whilst its beeen boiling hard for 5 mins I have no idea what that red TPU you used but its garbage. theres no way you can crack a hard 95-100a TPU unless its not really TPU.

[@colincampbell3679]

Blimey... Sounds like none of the Filaments is any good due to heat or flexing etc.? I looking to try doing 3D printing soon and this is good information to have for a Newbie! Shame that all have issues.

[@ze3312]

Does anyone know where i can find that yoshi?

[@sarahclark5447]

Hi guys, please excuse my ignorance as I do not know much about 3D printing since I am a school-aged girl who has been forced onto a boys EOPT! we have a Cetus mk3 printer at school which our team want to use to make a bezel for a Nextion graphic display the file to print the bezel may be found here if that helps nextion.tech/nextion-editor-ver-0-58/#_section4 We want the bezel to be black preferably, and shiny or at least smooth i.e. not have lines on like most of the printed parts we have seen. What is the best filament to use to achieve this? and is there anything we could do to make the finished bezel better, like some sort of polish to make it shine. I also noted that when we tested the file from the Nextion site above on the Cetus mk3 using pla plastic it printed the bezel standing on its edge and not flat against the table of the printer is this normal?