Guide to leading in the body seams on restoration projects. 1971 Barracuda episode 14

[@rodrogers6895]

Good to see a craftsman at work, doing bodywork that will last for generations to see and appreciate. These cars are pieces of art!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much!

[@toddhendley67]

I'm 56 and remember watching my grandfather work in lead on my 1970 Cuda back in 1983. Thanks for making me think of that!!

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome, glad this brought back that memory.

[@ChrisEddings-m8f]

Much respect!!! You are a true craftsman. I love the way that you're looking 40 to 50 years ahead, instead of just doing what it takes to get these cars out the door. It's really impressive.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much. My thought is everyone really has a connection to these cars to be investing in something so old and I try to make sure that if cared for the cars should hopefully not need to go to this kind of restoration again in their lifetime.

[@BessieMorrison]

Probably the best presentation of leading I`v seen. Thanks for posting

[@carthageclassiccars]

I really appreciate the feedback, thank you!

[@josephkellum1230]

These videos deserve so much more appreciation! I really like watching your content because you explain information so well and in such a friendly manner. Thank you!

[@carthageclassiccars]

I really appreciate the kind feedback and taking your time to watch them.

[@vernonland5987]

Fantastic channel, good old school info.

[@carthageclassiccars]

thanks for watching

[@mannyk291]

Thanks for doing thee videos ……. really like your attention to details .

[@carthageclassiccars]

Your welcome, Thanks a lot for watching them

[@alisafoley4004]

Thank you so much for your instructional videos I did my first lead fill in roof seam today turned put great thanks to your videos

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thats awesome to hear thanks for letting me know, great job.

[@Mark-um7ey]

Glad to see someone actually strip the e-coat and not just scuff and shoot. Nos factory panels you can do that to back in the day but the new stuff isn't the same product. I've experienced flaking and worse, rust under the e-coat

[@carthageclassiccars]

I agree same here I have seen signs of corrosion in the cheap e coat and don't trust it like you stated. Thanks for the input

[@stevenmiller4254]

Amazing work and attention to detail. I'm learning so much in every video. I'm so pleased to see my favorite childhood pony cars restored and preserved for another 50+ years through the use of epoxy primer where there was next to nothing when they originally left the factory. Awesome work!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you and appreciate you following along.

[@stevenfan1218]

I love watching you..more then anyone else..i would give you a 10.with no problems.ive watched a lot.superb job.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much!

[@erichuff2538]

Best instructional video I have ever seen. Thank you so much. I wish I lived in t he same area as you so that I could learn the techniques you have. Great job brother . God bless you and your family.

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome and thank you for watching and the feedback glad you enjoyed it.

[@kylnastn6033]

Your channel is a great channel.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you

[@bennyguerra6539]

thank you, this video is very useful for the project i am tackling currently🤟

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome good luck with your build!

[@papaloongie]

Very enjoyable channel!! I’ve always believed in leading welded seams. You often see see a welded seam through the paint, especially on a hot day. I just get it fairly close . I cover everything with epoxy primer always, then I use body filler to get it a little bit better. In addition, it adds strength and won’t shrink. Thank you

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you very much and that will work there is a reason good lead jobs still look as good his many years later. I think you will be just fine doing it the way you have planned. Good luck on your project.

[@skipsims2384]

Always great tutorials Rick, you do a fantastic job buddy! I’m excited about getting my car to you. Hold my slot, I’ll be working on it in the meantime getting as much as I have time to do. Great job as always!

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks Skip, and you got it I am excited to work on yours.

[@ty3095]

That was a great step-by-step video. I'm gonna give it a try on my current restoration project. Keep the videos coming, thanks

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks and good luck I am sure it will turn out great!

[@garylietz6305]

Great instructions

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you!

[@KarlAhlheim]

Dude! Great video! With instructions like that, I feel confident enough to do that for myself.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot. That was the goal I set out was give the viewers the knowledge to feel like they can at least attempt it. Thanks for the feedback!

[@acardiac5983]

Great informative video! I just completed the lead seams on my quarters and cowl following your directions.

[@carthageclassiccars]

That is really awesome to hear thanks for letting me know it worked out for you.

[@Rangemaster26]

An old man I used to work with told me leading is like a cross between finishing concrete and frosting a cake. "Nuthin' to it."

[@carthageclassiccars]

I could see that, the thing that makes it more challenging is keeping the heat on and off it to that consistency.

[@brianmoore2171]

great video thank you. not many teach the old ways

[@carthageclassiccars]

Appreciate it!

[@garylietz6305]

Excellent.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot

[@richardcooper2237]

It is good to see you're trying to use lead. Eventually you'll start to get good at. Please don't burn the hell out your paddle like that. At paddle should last you. 10 years use that every da I'm 81 years old. I used to use that all the time.

[@mback12000]

What's with you?? How is every video you make truly excellent?? Lol, great work.

[@carthageclassiccars]

haha thanks a lot seriously.

[@davidbrown-55]

Great demo. Thanks for spreading the hard work

[@carthageclassiccars]

You are welcome!

[@teamidris]

I watched Mark Evans lead his E type jag years ago and this vid was a great addition. I’m used to getting some heat in there when soldering so it metal bonds really well. And this is the exact opposite, the lead is pushed in sort of cold. Fascinating. Ace vid :o)

[@carthageclassiccars]

thank you!

[@chuckypaonita7974]

Hey bud, nice job, I'm new to your channel, and I'm enjoying it, thanks for being very informative, it helps a lot, have a great day

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks a lot for checking it out, same to you have a good day!

[@hamdiklcarslan4435]

nice work thanks for the info

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you and you are welcome

[@johnponthieux159]

Good job

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you

[@Supanova70]

Came out out sweet!!! Why does most TDS epoxy`s want an 80 grit bite.I think you went with 120. Getting ready to epoxy soon...

[@carthageclassiccars]

I am not sure what the chemical differences on epoxy primers are and honestly only have used a handful of them. Once I find something that works I try not to change it. I used 120 because this epoxy Tds said bare metal it calls for 120 to 180 grit

[@time_to_waste]

44:30 my friend had to use Coral Rust removal disc to shape the lead and it works really well and pretty fast. It also gentle to metal

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks for the advice! I will look into getting one and try it for the next time.

[@johnnyfeher3412]

Interesting method, looks similar to asphalting concrete flat roofs . They use Oak paddles to push it about.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Oh wow that is also interesting, I will have to look into that just for my knowledge, thanks.

[@johnnyfeher3412]

@@carthageclassiccars kzbin.info/www/bejne/eXzOapR7lJaaptE Rick here's small vid of how its done.

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@johnnyfeher3412 wow yea that was a cool process talk about hard work.

[@andrephilipi8238]

Shoow !😀👍

[@rodneyhatfield7270]

Great videos. Why don't you install the latches when doing your gaps?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thank you, Actually I do install all the latches when doing gaps, but there is no need for the door handles on the outside as I can just reach inside the door and unlatch the mechanism from the striker.

[@aderyan4504]

I trained in lead loading as an apprentice.

[@carthageclassiccars]

Nice.

[@RoddyDa]

Did you upgrade your camera? This is by far the best show and tell on how to perform lead filler. If I lived closer I would come work for you for free just for the experience

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks and yes I recently got a new camera and wireless mic to try and make things a little better quality.

[@RoddyDa]

@@carthageclassiccars definitely better….thanks!

[@deankavanagh9832]

Thank you for posting this, very helpful. Did you used the acetone as a wax and grease remover for the whole car

[@carthageclassiccars]

I used acetone on just the lead areas and then wax and grease remover everywhere there is bare metal before priming.

[@deankavanagh9832]

Thanks

[@mrpurcountry]

Wonderful job, question , was the seam between the roof and quarter welded hundred percent. Thanks

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes it was plug welded every inch then cleaned up,. Since I cleaned up the welds it didn't look like anything was there. What else you see is a couple tacks just to really hold the seam on the edge down in general that I knew the lead would hold. .

[@edgarzavala1436]

Great video! Im new to body work. Is it possible to use fiberglass body filler to fill in those gaps instead of lead?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Yes you could use bond fiberglass. I would personally look into the the Evercoat kitty hair fiberglass brand instead.

[@darrelllayton196]

Great video, love your in-depth explanations. I'm restoring my 67 camaro and I'm debating using lead or lead-free soldering to cover some small rusted out holes in the hood. What's your opinion on the lead-free soldering kit from Eastwood?

[@carthageclassiccars]

Thanks, rusted out holes? So a couple things to consider is all the rust out of the holes? If not anything you put on top of it will have a chance of bubbling up from the rust. Also in the hood? In the hood putting heat has a really good chance of warping that. My option on rust holes in that area is I would make sure nothing is exposed on the back, holes not going all the way through. If they are I think you need a metal patch to be welded in place. If they are just putted really bad and cleaned out I would add all metal which is a aluminized filler. I think that would be the easiest for your application and not hurt the hood anymore. Also I did a video on OSPHO if you check that out might help you out with some rust treatment.

[@darrelllayton196]

Hi, thanks for replying. There's about 5 small round holes ranging from 1/8" to 1/4" diameter, and one hole about 3/8" x 1". There's also a few tiny pin holes about 1/64". The holes go all the way through the top layer of the hood. There's no access from the underside of the hood due to the double panel. Also, there's a lot of pitted spots. I killed all the rust with muriatic acid (as that's stronger than OSPHO or Phosphoric Acid) while scrubbing with a red scuff pad and then 30% vinegar and cleaned with scuff pad and water. I think I should neutralize the surface with some baking soda and water mix, or OSPHO, what do you think? So, it seems that lead soldering to cover the holes is not a good idea due to warping. I took the hood to a welding shop that builds race cars and he said welding it would cause warping. I'm concerned that welding patches would cause warping. The hood is already warped some, as it's 56 yrs old, so I will cover it with body filler and glazing putty after the holes are fixed. I can send pics if helpful. I really appreciate your advice as I'm not sure what to do at this point. (sorry for such a long explanation)

[@carthageclassiccars]

@@darrelllayton196 So I think the only way I would say to properly fix it is pull the whole skin off the frame on the hood, TIG in your patches and holes then hammer and dolly to fix it. Anything else in my opinion is a short term fix that will lead to paint and rust issues down the road.

[@acardiac5983]

I have a 69 Dart. How many pounds of lead do I need to complete the quarter panels and cowl? Can I use a can torch? Thanks

[@carthageclassiccars]

I would buy a 10 lb pack, better to have too much then not enough but it all depends on application. I am using a torch with the eastwood tip in the video, that is the way I recommend.

[@aldotgomez]

Do japanese cars uave lead or just the the old Americans cars

[@carthageclassiccars]

I have never touched a Japanese car however, I would think there should be lead in those car in that era. Lead was used because modern fillers weren't around and the roof was too large and had to be stamped separate so the only way to adhere it all the way around the piece with the spot welders was to go through some of the outer body in the back seams and the front pillar and the only thing they would have had at the time to fill it efficiently would have been lead since it has a lower melting point then metal.