Harley Benton DC guitar kit assembly instructions, test and review

Harley Benton DC double cut / Gibson SG guitar kit assembly, test and review. This is a follow on from the original unboxing of the Harley Benton DC guitar kit.
My Harley Benton SC / Gibson SG videos page - www.ebooks4guit...
This Harley Benton kit is a Gibson SG style guitar kit, however Harley Benton call it a DC guitar kit which stands for double cut. They also make a Les Paul style kit which they call an SC or Single Cut DIY guitar kit. The fact that it's a kit means it's an unfinished guitar that has all the parts to put together to create a complete electric guitar. The kit is complete with all the parts you need and ready to be constructed, however the wood for the body is bare and unfinished. Because the body is bare and unfinished you can choose how to finish the guitar off to make it your own.
I found a few interesting things out as I was building this guitar and testing it and I recommend you watching this video if you are thinking of buying one of these guitars. I try to stick rigidly to the instructions to build this guitar to make sure it is possible to build the guitar with the provided parts and instructions.
I have already done an unboxing and review of this guitar which you can find here;
Unboxing and review - • Harley Benton DC guita...
Because this video became too long to include all the details you will find these videos useful towards finishing the guitar off;
putting strings on a DC/Gibson SG style guitar - • how to change strings ...
How to set intonation on a guitar - • How to adjust intonati...
If you want to see more guitar videos please visit my site;
www.ebooks4guit...
If you are interested in buying a guitar kit take a look in my Amazon landing page;
www.amazon.co....

[@prodevus]

Thanks for keeping in mind all the restrictions that young people and people without a good working space face! Great show of empathy.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . you are the first person to even recognize that fact . . 😊

[@daviddragan610]

You need to do a light sanding in between varnish coats to smooth out the bumps which are typically called “orange peel”. You want to keep the surface as smooth as possible because the more layers the bigger the bumps get. Then use very fine grit wet paper to give it a final sanding and start polishing !

[@williamdon3442]

I was thinking that. Wet sanding right???

[@andresilvasophisma]

Not an expert here but I think you're meant to slightly sand it between varnish layers. I tried this once at home and it was ok, but it was in something that didn't required it to be extra smooth like a guitar. Also, one thing worth mentioning to people who might want to try this is to shield the electronics cavity before installing them.

[@bluesteelworx]

I remember using steel wool between coats on a varnish project years ago, also Dampen to raise the grain and light sand and allow to dry before first coat.

[@privateislandice]

Both are good suggestions. I've been watching videos in preparation for doing my first build, and I've only seen one vid that showed them using shielding paint in the electronics cavity. Even they didn't shield the interior side of the cover plate. It seems like an obvious improvement for only a few dollars.

[@shanewatters9251]

For wood finishing beginners or non professionals I think shellac is a great option, it's very forgiving, cleans up with denatured alcohol, builds up quickly and works well as a base coat primer for other finishes.

[@guitar-academy]

Great advice . . 😊

[@alexevans7916]

I have not read all the comments so maybe it has been covered..check out "French polishing"..You apply a coat dry it then sand it, add another coat, dry it, sand it, do as many coats as you wish...the high surfaces are sanded be k while the low spots fill eventually you have a nice flat surface needless to say on the final coats use a very fine paper...the final surface is like glass.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, this is the most common advice and seems to be the clear winner. . . 😊

[@sahanulgen7214]

Dear Sir, I owe you a thank you!!!! Your suggestion of acrylic lacquer was spot on! I went with a clou brand wood stain soluble in water, I applied it as two layers and on top I sprayed 3 layers of acrylic lacquer and I am done with the paint job. It looks like how I want. Of course it has some imperfections here and there but that was expected with my level of experience. Thank you so much!

[@guitar-academy]

Fantastic! and you will have learned a lot from your project . . that's really great 😊

[@stevenmaguire6340]

I done this a couple of years ago, same DC Kit. All ok apart from one of the bridge screws missing, but Thomann sent me an additional screw. I finished mine in red nitrocellulose and clear nitro. Also I added a headstock detail using a print out and sellotape with water trick, worked great! The Bigsby on your guitar is an excellent idea and the guitar looks great!

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you . . yours sounds really nice, the red sounds a bid Jimi Page. Thomann are really good when it comes to customer support and replacing things quickly, I had a broken volume knob that was replaced very quickly . . 😊

[@PinataOblongata]

Use sanding sealer before your first coat, and give a light sand and wipe down after the sealer and in between each successive coat of varnish - might have helped get you the finish you were after. Alternatively you could have used a stain and then layered on clear-coat.

[@rbenm]

You are so much better. Wow it's amazing the knowledge you have on the subject matter.

[@adammaher6962]

Ha

[@rbenm]

@jacktheripped you have no authority

[@michaelcantral7234]

I made my living as a weed finisher and I would firstly sand down from 240 grit to 600 grit. Next use either grain filler or sanding sealer but don’t use wood filler. Wipe off the surplus before it dries and repeat the sanding. Leave it to harden for a couple of hours. The best finish would probably be French polish, but if you’re not skilled at it, go for gloss varnish. Finally apply up to 6 coats of varnish if that’s your choice. Leave each coat to dry for about 6hours, and be sure to rub down between coats with 1200 grit wet and dry, being sure to wipe off with a damp cloth after each coat. When you achieve the required finish stop sanding and give it 24 hours to dry. Now you can make a living as a varnisher.

[@guitar-academy]

That's good advice and I will be trying it . .

[@bolerdweller]

I know lots of guitar players that are weed finishers too

[@idiotburns]

yup thats it, no need to type

[@JBS160]

I have finished a lot of weed in my day. I quit some time ago...

[@boofert.washington2499]

I just finished some weed

[@SydneyDrums]

I wondered what Christopher Eccleston was up to after Dr. Who

[@HowlinAndyDE]

lmao i thought the same

[@guitar-academy]

I wish I was 🙂

[@guitar-academy]

kzbin.info/aero/PLIQJcXCYbgO2q9hDUBT0E5z1JZDk3bowI

[@pdallaglio]

The video is perfect! It allowed us to set up the guitar in a few hours being absolute beginners! Thank you so much!

[@guitar-academy]

That's great . . thank you 😊😊

[@oldcodger4371]

I did a tele Kit with Tru oil and wet sanded between each coat which was about 6 coats. After final coat. I wet sanded at 500, then 1000, then 2000, and finally 4000. After that wax and buff. My Tele looks like a dream. If you're not willing to put in the extra work then don't be surprised with less than stellar results.

[@guitar-academy]

very true . . and with Tru oil the finish is very tough, which is a bonus

[@ianferguson6136]

Nice video ! Even on quality timber, grain filler is a must before finish is applied otherwise any varnish will build up in invisible hairline cracks. Go over the whole body with the filler and sand with fine grit wet and dry and repeat this at least twice more. Then use a wood stain to acheive colour of choice. Type of varnish you used is totally unsuited as it will over time turn a dirty brown mess and probably peel. Clear acrylic or polyester lacquer is the way to go. I have used quality rattle cans of car top coat with perfect results. Trick is to take time and apply several light coats ( at least 8-10) with very light knocking back between coats. Then two final heavier coats without sanding. Leave to dry for at least a week then buff with a lambswool mop. Alternatively your friendly local garage will probably spray it for you in one hit for about a tenner ! Sam Walker rightly suggests French Polishing (no such thing as French Polish however - it's a process not a material) will give a wonderful finish and in fact was widely used in the 19th Century for stringed instruments but fell out of favour because of its softness and sensitivity to low heat, moisture and alcohol. Great if you are just going to hang it on a wall ! Play it regularly however and it will quickly look like your cat has done River Dance on it ! Hope my comments help.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you for taking the time to leave great tips . . 😊

[@rickrodgers7805]

your first problem is you didnt use a sanding sealer on that wood. Mahogany needs to have a sanding sealer to fill the grain. Second, you should have sanded inbetween coats of varnish to level the finish. Also, you sand between coats of lacquer to keep it level and add depth to the finish. Finally you wet sand the clear and buff it with compound to a super high gloss finish.

[@guitar-academy]

thanks for the tips . .

[@brianmi40]

When putting in those neck screws, note that the screwdriver is a bit small in the cross head. This risks rounding them out or stripping them. use a screwdriver that fits fully to the width and maximum depth to best drive the screws.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes you're right, the screw driver was wrong for the job 🤔

[@johnkirkpatrick1778]

It is important that the holes for the neck screws in the guitar body are drilled out to be the same size as the un-threaded shank of the neck screws, or the maximum diameter of the threaded part of the screws, whichever is the largest: if you don't check this there is a strong possibility that the screw threads will cut into the body wood, forcing the neck very slightly away from the neck pocket, and preventing it from seating properly. Not too loose; just wide enough to allow the neck screws to be inserted easily down to the back of the neck, without any wobble. Also, the holes in the neck really need to be the same diameter as the solid centre of the threaded part of the screw: you do NOT want the fit to be so tight that you have to force the screws in using excess force! The neck holes should be drilled just very slightly less deep than the part of the neck screw which will be screwed into them (remember that the very tip of the screws will be pointed). If you have a lot of difficulty in screwing them fully tight, there is definitely something wrong with the diameter of the screw holes! This is important, you should never have to wait until the wood expands to allow the screws to be tightened all the way! This is a definite recipe from breaking a screw if you ever needed to remove the neck: believe me, removing a broken screw is not fun, especially if it has broken off level with the back of the neck!

[@guitar-academy]

Yes all true, and good advice . . This video is the continuation of the review and therefore the point of this video was to see if the guitar could be put together straight out of the box using the instructions and existing parts without having to drill or alter anything. Even though the guitar did go together OK, your point is spot on and I didn't stress it enough in the video but the guitar really needed a little modification to make it fit together perfectly.

[@samwalker7567]

Watching your video, the technique you were using and the finish you were after, I can't help but think you'd have had a much better experience with wood dye for the colour, followed by protecting and coating the wood using French polish which is shellac based, rather than what I presume is a polyurethane based varnish. French polish is much thinner and much smoother, so adding coats increases the shine and lustre, where adding more coats of varnish just tends to make it thick and lumpy - the very problem you highlight here. Your application technique itself - lots of layers applied using a cloth in a circular motion, is the essence of French polishing anyway. Yes, the end result might be more fragile but if you were concerned then a final single coat of poly varnish would protect it. In my local hardware shop, both these products are located next to the varnish, and they're readily available with no age restrictions as far as I'm aware. You can even get decent pre-mixed French polish from the same brand as the varnish you used.

[@noi5emaker]

Great advice :) I've used tung and danish oils and they work beautifully. My first guitar was finished with tung oil and it looked great, plus it was easy to do.

[@guitar-academy]

Over time I need to try all these great suggestions I'm reading . . 😊

[@mcannon749]

GCH Guitar Academy You should also use a wood filler/sanding sealer if you have to sand off the poly sealant that was applied at the factory or if the kit does not have a seal coat on it already.

[@lightningslim]

Personally, I like the wood to look like wood, rather than being plastic glossy "perfect." So I have used boiled linseed oil to finish my efforts.

[@guitar-academy]

@@lightningslim yes . . me too . . 😀 How does the linseed oil behave over time ?

[@Lespaul13100]

Not a bad job with the varnish. Gives the guitar a sort of antique look. I like it! Cheers!

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . 🙂

[@willmorrison1022]

Your problem finish wise is that you are playing with an open pore wood, which needs to be filled first, then sanded down and flattened. You started off right, with your sanding, but then you needed to replace that filler that the factory had put on. so you put filler on, let it sit, and scrape off the excess, then let it dry. do that a couple of time, usually, and the surface will be flat. a little touch up with some sanding and you're ready for color, then gloss top coats. THEN, sand that down so it's got no bumps, going through the grits of sandpaper, then polish and buff out for the gloss finish you're looking for. A good finish is a LOT of work.

[@guitar-academy]

Good advice

[@mdadtka]

I bought a BEX from Amazon. The only issue I had was with the wiring. Not much guidance. I had to use my intuition and look at many, many videos. I realized that you can wire it three different ways depending on the type of sound you want. The holes inside the body weren't big enough to pass the switch through, so I had to unsolder it and resolder it to fit. As far as the finish goes, I used Crystaylac and put on about 20 coats until I was happy. I had to do a lot of nick fixing. But again, in the end, I was happy. I haven't finished the wiring yet but it'll soon be done.

[@guitar-academy]

That sounds like something not recommended for an absolute beginner or a kid. The point of this video was to do it directly form the instructions with the minimum of change to see if a beginner could do it and I came to the conclusion (for this kit) an absolute beginner could put it together (just). 🤔

[@richardreed7764]

Like the two coats also. Give it a slight sand then change out your stain coat to a clear varnish coat and sand between coats.Option two use stain varnish you started out with to two coats sand slightly and spray one coat of vinyl sealer the use lacquer product. Vinyl sealer is a finishers friend when in doubt what the coating is on something prefinished and anything will adhere to vinyl sealer.

[@guitar-academy]

great tips . . thanks 😊

[@chrisgeo1642]

Wiping on product like this is a wipe on/wipe off process. You only want the as much as will soak in and wipe off any excess. You shouldn’t really see a sheen on it until you polish. Just a couple notes as I am watching I have done several kit and scratch builds. A tight neck fit is good, it is ok to use a little pressure to get it in place it shouldn’t slide easily into place because you do not want it sliding easily out of place. I would not recommend expanding the holes for the neck screws and amount of play and the screws will start to wear away at the hole and make them bigger until your neck is completely loose. Good old candle wax on the screws is the thing don’t dip them in it but just rub it around the outside so it makes it easier to screw down. I am looking at doing this same kit as a quarantine project which is why I am watching but I have drawers full of pickups, tuners and pots so I won’t be using what’s in the kit. Last thought if you place the bushings for the bridge and tail piece in your freezer for several hours before installing them on the body they will set in easier. Take directly from the freezer one at a time and put each in immediately they will have shrunk ever so slightly from the cold just enough to make them set in much easier just a tap or two with a rubber mallet. Very nice looking build and well done. I hope no one is bothered I gave my thoughts on building but I learned to do it before KZbin and made so many mistakes that I try to pass along things I have learned. Great video thank you

[@guitar-academy]

Very useful advice . . I will take use all those tips at some point in the future I'm sure . . Thank you 😊😊

[@xyrius]

If you put on the couple of first coats(2-3) of varnish with a high grit sandpaper (600+) you won't have any problem. At the end you could get a mirror shine with 000 or 0000 steel wool and a polishing compound.

[@guitar-academy]

Great tip . . thanks 😊

[@sean1121970]

As you said- acrylic lacquer is car paint. So to get a high gloss, smooth finish you need to wet sand with 1200 grade paper to get it even then use cutting compound on it. This will bring it up like glass if you do it properly. You can use car polish after cutting to enhance the shine and protect the surface.

[@guitar-academy]

good tip . .😊

[@Mandobird1]

Very cool build, and installing the Bigsby was a top customisation. A satin finish would definitely have given it a nice worn in patina over time.

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks 👍 eww . . satin finish, not my cup of tea I'm afraid . . but good option . . 😊

[@Big-A-Russel]

You have to sand between every coat with super fine grit papper

[@guitar-academy]

great tip 🙂

[@derekcasey9265]

Yep. I did a les Paul type with tru oil. I sanded with 1500 grit between all 14 coats. Smooth as a baby's bottom, highly glossy and amazing.

[@killingthemsoftly568]

What the hell is papper?

[@matthewsalyersjr4965]

I know this is a yr old but. I made the same mistake when I built my 1st guitar but “grain filler” is the key..

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, I think you're right . .

[@tonyt.1596]

To get a great finish it might help to sand in between coats with a very fine grit. Then polish it on the last coast with wet and dry going with finer and finer grit.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, you are right . . that suggestion is the most commonly made in the comments . . 😀

[@patrickkem689]

Hello friend I have really enjoyed watching your video. There’s nothing like trial and error for the best experience. I have worked with varnish before and I’ll share with you my experience. If you like what are you noticed with working with varnish is after you have put your coats on allowing adequate drying time you get to where you want it to be as far as color wise as far as shine . No I would like to ask you have you ever worked with wet sanding? It’s when you take various grits of polishing paper starting at 800 grit, 1000 grit 1500 grit 2000 grit 2500 grit. all the way up to about 10,000 grit that is so you will take the varnish that is already on and you will level it. It’s also referred to as level sanding. Be sure to put a little bit dishwashing soap in your water no more than a drop or if you have it on hand Naptha also works very very well for that task after you have done that wipe it off with a cotton rag that is lint free and clean. After that take a mild rubbing compound I like 3M but over there in the UK I’m sure you have your products that are the equivalent, or perhaps even better and then put an amount on that and take buffing pads are use a small electric buffing machine like you would use to buff out your automobile and I bring that up to various polishing degrees as well after you’ve done that you will need to put on some polishing paste pretty much any type of automotive paste as long as it is of good quality repeat the same technique as you did with the rubbing compound and just use your talent and allow yourself to learn as you go and from that point on, you will have a body that you will have to wear sunglasses when you look up on it. I hope this helps you in someway carry-on it’s a very expensive obsession, but so much fun. Cheers.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes I'm familiar with that method, which you've explained really well 😊 Thank you. The point of this video was to see if the guitar could be built just by obeying the provided instructions in the box and on the lacquer tin. I think the exercise proved you can, but it would be better using techniques like the one you described.

[@wesjames6060]

I'm a little late to the party here I see but I just ordered this kit and can't wait for it to get here. At first I was going for the Tele kit but completely changed my mind seeing the finish you were able to get with this model you inspired me to go for a very similar look. Can't wait to get building and playing my very first SG!

[@guitar-academy]

I've still got this guitar and I love the look too . . 😊😀

[@Jerkyboy1973]

Wet sand with 600 grit till perfectly flat. Tack with tac cloth.. 1 more nice coat you will have what you want. Good job hope this helps

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for the tips! they're very helpful 😊😃

[@TheEARLD]

Varnishing, to get a flat even finish on a guitar thin it out by 50 % on your first 3 coats, rub in between coats with fine steel wool for every layer you put on 4th coat thin by 25%. Then do a few coats full. power. Leave it to cure fully then give go in with 1500 grit and do a light wet sand and then again with 2000. Finish off with a wax coat.

[@guitar-academy]

good advice

[@johnnyrandom100]

I built a T-Type kit. For the body, I used Danish Oil, six coats. It looks great. It is an Ash body.

[@guitar-academy]

that sounds nice . . 😊

[@raspberryjuiceentertainmen719]

His voice is so nice and calming I’d love for him to read a book he should do professional voiceover work imo

[@guitar-academy]

That's really nice of you to say . . 🙂🙂🙂

[@shivanjamal1375]

He'd be a really good radio host

[@guitar-academy]

@@tubeoftheviper7779 Yes I would agree that the screw should go smoothly through the body, but this build is part of a review to see if the guitar would go together just following the instructions. There's a lot I would do differently when putting a guitar together, but I wanted to establish (in a video) if the guitar would go together as is, following the instructions. 😊

[@guitar-academy]

@@tubeoftheviper7779 Thank you very much . . good luck with your build . . 😊

[@free-birdrocker8809]

LOL!Hahhahaha!

[@jan_the_man]

Without this video me and my dad would have made a lot more mistakes. Thanks!

[@guitar-academy]

I'm really glad it helped . . Thank you 🙂

[@lohikarmi235]

I've used diluted wood filler for sealing the grain before. When sanded back it is mostly not visible under a clear coat

[@guitar-academy]

that's a great tip . . thank you 😊

[@GeraldBoyClassical]

You should have used (Tru Oil) finish after sanding the wood down to 800 grit or or more. You don't have a spray booth like the Factories use. Violine makers use this product, and I have used it on Classical guitars which I have built.

[@JTHelectronics]

I work in a small guitar shop and the owner swears by the tru oil method, it's really difficult to screw it up, looks and feels great too

[@guitar-academy]

I think I will try it on the next kit . .🙂

[@izzysantiago978]

I modded one with a maple veneer and set neck. Maple venner in the back to cover those eyesore holes for the neck bolts.

[@guitar-academy]

sounds like it should be nice 😊

[@izzysantiago978]

@@guitar-academy Not taking away your build which came out awesome. I just wanted to get as close to the Gibson SG as possible. And thanks.

[@guitar-academy]

@@izzysantiago978 No problem . . I wouldn't actually do I build like this normally but this was the continuation of a review so I wanted to build it just using just the instructions provided. I think I proved that it could be done, but you can make the guitar a lot better if you use additional knowledge or references. 😊😊

[@trus3683]

Just so you know, neck screws aren't meant to be threaded through the body - only the neck. I would have drilled the body holes big enough for them to fall through so that they can pull the neck in properly. That's most likely the reason it was so hard screwing them in, or like you said they were also drilled too small.

[@guitar-academy]

True, but you missed the point of the video . . this is the continuation of a review, so I wanted to see if you could put the kit together without having to make modifications yourself. That's why I make such a point of the fact I was following the instructions.

[@pskemster]

As a rule these finishes are spectacular. But the fine print is after a few coats let it dry and then cure. Then sand it down to knock off the high spots. From that point the process will consist of apply,dry. Sand apply. And after about 8-9 coats sand graduating the grit grades. I use a 600 grit to start wet sand of course. Then 800grit. Then I go to a 1000grit,up to 1500, and then a 2000 grit. Now after that you should be pretty smooth. After that I use a coarse rubbing compound rubbing that for an even smoother finish. Next a fine grit compound. After that you are ready to polish. Try using a good wax polish with a carnauba. There are many out there to choose from And that will also help in rubbing out any swirl marks. After that you are free to either use your choice of a spray or a wipe on Polyurethane,or a good lacquer and after you are done let dry and cure for several weeks so the finish can harden up. Building a guitar is truly a very fun and learning experience. I am certainly enjoying watching your progress. Just wish those kits came in a set neck as well. There’s a challenge! Cheers my friend!

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for the tips . . . I have seen kits in set neck form, but not from Thomann 😊

[@jacksprat3009]

Put coat on thin, with the grain without moving brush around much After each coat of varnish dries - solid - go over with 00 steel wool until smooth as glass.

[@guitar-academy]

thanks . . sounds like a good tips . . 🙂

[@monmixer]

Those pick ups have great sustain even at low volume. I have been thinking about buying on of these. the 3 pick up model assembled but it would nice to have the roller bridge and bigsby

[@guitar-academy]

I was surprised how good the guitar was and the fact that you get to decide on things like pickups, finish and roller bridge makes it perfect for someone wanting that guitar that is just for them . . . 😊😊

[@DanGleabols]

I've never used it myself, but I've always thought Wudtone an interesting option as a non spray finish.

[@guitar-academy]

After reading your comment I looked it up . . it looks good doesn't it. 😀

[@wideyxyz2271]

Just checked them out after seeing your post. Going to have to give it a go. Thanks for the info guys....

[@harrytuttle8161]

I like SGs well enough , I'd put a set of Angus Youngs or Bare Knuckles in it and sand it smooth and slap a few coats of Tongue Oil finish on it , I feel it lets the wood breath . I love the natural wood look .

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for sharing! yes, the open wood look is nice and very popular at the moment. 😃

[@karlingestensland2538]

Thanks for an excellent tutorial. So much better than Thomann's manual. Saved the Sunday!

[@guitar-academy]

You're welcome! thank you 😊

[@barrywebber100]

Very nice job, I liked the finish of the body and it sounded great! Nice personalisation with the Bigsby. Thanks for posting.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . and thank you for watching 😊

[@rockape1954]

With the kit I built I found it best to level the frets before fitting the neck, as they were a bit out when I checked them with a fret rocker.

[@guitar-academy]

This is the continuation of a review, so I was testing if the guitar would go together with out changes. Happily this played well without fret leveling. 🙂

[@bluebluebluebird]

Thin with mineral sprits 3:1 then 2:1, 1:1 then pure varnish. Polish with paste wax to get high gloss and remove the orange peel

[@guitar-academy]

good tips . . 🙂

[@waadgaad2024]

Hey bud, something you can do to smooth that finish, is taking regular white printer paper, and sanding the surface with it. It friction shines it

[@guitar-academy]

interesting . . .

[@melvinhyman2885]

In my working with wood you can make repairs to loose screws with wood putty or in a pinch take some tooth picks an brake then off flush in the hole an then replace the screws.

[@guitar-academy]

good tips . . thanks 😊

[@droses1600]

Even before I saw this video, I was thinking about getting a HB kit. Now I've made up my mind for a DC as I've never even played a real Gibson SG. And I will aim for the deep oak colour and finish you achieved.

[@droses1600]

One question though: the only customisation I would make is to put a simple logo (probably my first name or initials) on the front of the headstock. How best to achieve that? A marker pen or Sharpie, covered with a few coats of clear varnish??

[@guitar-academy]

Glad I could help! 😊😊

[@guitar-academy]

I'll be doing a video on options for that . . but I wouldn't use a sharpie unless you are very good with a pen. I'm not so I would have to print something . 😊

[@droses1600]

@@guitar-academy Oh, you sure did do that. I've just moved to a new city, and don't have any tools, nor a suitable place to work like a garage. Hoping I can borrow any stuff I need.

[@droses1600]

@@guitar-academy Can't wait for that vid. It's not going to be a Rembrandt, just two slightly stylised letters, or perhaps my first name in cursive script, which I'll practice on paper beforehand. I'll also do it on the headstock before fitting the machine heads so my hand is comfortable resting on it. I just want to make sure the lines are clear and defined and won't smudge with the first layer of clear lacquer.

[@funnelbeaker9839]

rub off any surplus laquer with a clean cloth after each coat to get a more uniform finish.

[@guitar-academy]

thanks for the tip 👍

[@stewarttomkinson3356]

Yeah, I build a trap from scratch and I ordered all the parts separately and I did the varnish thing in a reddish and it’s so thick on there and shiny and it don’t look right. I’m thinking of stripping it down paint it white with black around the edges going

[@guitar-academy]

I guess every build is a learning experience . . 😊

[@gregrayner3146]

nice video man, i wld suggest grain filling it first n then a light sand between coats of the tain & varnish n then wet sanding from like 600 to start all the way down to like 2000, that might help next time, keep up the great work

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for the great tips 😃

[@manulius]

You just pretty much made the guitar I've been thinking of making. SG with a Bigsby is love.

[@guitar-academy]

It's a nice instrument style and not very common . . you're the first person who likes it too . . lots of people don't like the Bigsby mod 😀

[@manulius]

Bigsby is my definate fav. Looks neat, feels neat to use.

[@guitar-academy]

@@manulius agreed . . . sounds smooth and cool as well . . 😀

[@moronsmorons8913]

You didn't struggle to drill the screws into the neck because of the soft wood, you did struggle, because the diameter of the drilled holes was quite small. Actually makes sense to avoid any wobble of the neck.

[@guitar-academy]

I think you meant to say hard wood, but yes you're right the holes were small. 🙂

[@nowherebrain]

1) if you strip out the wood from screwing too much, you can either put in some fine sawdust and crazy glue, or glue in a toothpick with regular wood glue and re-drill. 2) I recommend installing the bridge before the neck so you can check if the neck needs to be shimmed to align it's tilt to the bridge...with the bridge in it's middle position(height). 3) you put the pickups in correctly, but some people tend to turn one of them 180 deg...thinking the screws need to go the same direction. 4) brass is difficult to solder. and is not a great conductor, but probably enough for this use case. liked.

[@minkorrh]

Just my two cents, but with a Bigsby, I'd toss the original bridge and put a nice quality roller bridge in. You don't want to drag those strings across that cheap knifepoint bridge and expect tuning stability. That being said, you've played it...how is it for stability?

[@guitar-academy]

hmm . . you should have watched the video because I don't leave the original bridge on. Watch 36:08 onward

[@carlturlington4847]

Your playing adds credence to to the instrument at hand. Thanks.

[@guitar-academy]

thank you very much 😊😃

[@Meddled]

I can never get that Halfords clear lacquer to dry hard enough. Leave it to dry for a month and your thumb nail will leave an impression. It will dry enough to buff out, but it isn't a hardened 2K finish.

[@guitar-academy]

I find it goes hard if you leave it in the sun for a bit or in front of a heater, that seams to do it. Nitrocellulose is far better, but I was just making do with available. The nail marks in this were nothing to do with the finish, the wood the body is made of is soft . . really soft.

[@gw2934]

Nitro goes rock hard ,you can get it delivered for less than £10 for a 400 mil tin ,,you can colour the body with food dyes to the shade you want then build up the lacquer, ,leave it a week then buff up using a little water and wet dry paper ( avoidingvthe edges !!)from 1000 grit 1500,2000 2500 then t cut and polish

[@kevincuthbert3058]

Thank you for posting and your observations, it all helps. Your wiring seemed to work fine but people sat that on the single cut model some de soldering is necessary as the volume is either on or off. This crops up in many reviews as a known problem so am puzzled but easily fixed presuming one has a soldering iron. Many thanks again...nice job.

[@guitar-academy]

Glad it helped, I just put it together as it was, no modifications to the wiring at all and it worked fine, but this isn't the single cut model . . 🙂🙂

[@spokes28]

There are many kits on the market without the sealer, buy one of those. You should not have to go through a refinishing process to put a nice stain or dye on brand new wood.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, I agree . . and that's why I do these reviews, to make people aware of the facts when buying a new product . . Some people don't mind finishing the wood but others do. 😊

[@mrivantchernegovski3869]

Some shades of brown shoe polish work well and fill up the pores of the wood as well,and good for getting that red gibson sg look,as a engineer , mechanic , I cringe at your stubby screw driver ,longer ones give you more torque and control and you get a full view of your work piece ,great videos

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you for the great tips . . I was wondering about the length of screwdriver, but now you have convinced me, I must get some longer ones. 🙂

[@mrivantchernegovski3869]

@@guitar-academy cool as

[@mrivantchernegovski3869]

@@guitar-academy Some really nice screw drivers and t handle drivers in the gun smith world that they use .

[@davidfellows6250]

Yeah you have to wet sand and polish when your done. Just as if you painted. If it's been a while use some 000 steel wool and some high grade auto polish you'll love it.

[@guitar-academy]

Good advice

[@daleturner3507]

Probably paulownia it’s extremely light and soft. The neck is maple and that’s definitely a hardwood. Overall looks pretty good.

[@guitar-academy]

It's advertised as being Rengas and they are quite a reputable company . . 😊

[@cresshead]

excellent video and i agree the 1st coat looked best in retropect re varnish finish.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you. . . I have some of that varnish left and I think I will try that on a cigar box project I want to do. So hopefully we are both right . . . 😊😊

[@skyline2601]

This video is very relaxing. I wanted to buy the Les Paul type Single cut kit from Harley Benton but I might get this instead.

[@guitar-academy]

At the end of the day it might be down to availability, as they had run out of the double cut for a while. I haven't looked if they've got them back in stock yet. . .

[@7bookem]

What you are missing is called 'rubbing out'. Flatten the surface first with 1000g, which will turn the surface 'matt', then use 3000/4000g pad (i.e. Mirka) with a splash of soapy water to lubricate. This will give you your 'gloss'. You need a fair base of varnish or lacquer to achieve this, I prefer a foam craft brush for this.

[@guitar-academy]

great tip . . thank you 😊

[@7bookem]

@@guitar-academy No worries, you don’t know until you know. Just need to be careful on corners/edges especially when flattening as they can rub through easily

[@guitar-academy]

@@7bookem more great advice . . thanks 😊

[@frdradio]

Nice vid. Just a thought, it's better to make the holes for the neck plate large enough so the screws don't thread tightly through the body but pass through and thread into the neck itself. Helps make sure the neck angle is correct.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, agreed, but this was the continuation of a review and I wanted to see if the guitar would go together without modification . . 😀

[@kublaicarl4818]

Use TRU Oil mate, gives you a finish like a gun stock, once buffed up its gives a deep gloss, excellent job.

[@guitar-academy]

I've used Tru oil on a Les Paul version and it worked out nicely I need to get the video edited and uploaded . . 😊

[@HiOctane62]

One thing you should have done is did the same thing to the back of the neck, and also use some neck oil on the front to darken it up some. The fret board looks dry.

[@guitar-academy]

I am going to do a video just on the neck and putting decals on the headstock, so I will be doing it all then.

[@HiOctane62]

GCH Guitar Academy that is cool. Looking forward to that.

[@guitaronwater9034]

Colored tinted varnish is not really for fine finishing. Use a sealer to insure it's not splotchy. Then I'd use stain only and then clear lacquer would be my idea of how to improve the look and get more depth. Your stain/varnish by its nature won't provide a depth of finish you'd want and will always be "muddy" since the stain clouds the varnish finish. Or use something after the stain like Watco Oil Finish that puts on very thin layers. In the USA we have Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish available that makes a great thin finish that many people use. The great thing about a kit is you can upgrade the cheap electronics to much higher quality for a few dollars more. CTS pots and Switchcraft jacks are cheap as chips and much better than the kit. An open air 3 way switch like a Oak Grigsby or Switchcraft is more durable, feels better in use AND can be easily sprayed with electronics cleaner when it gets gunky down the road. At this point I'd guess you'd have spent an additional $30 in electronics and have more durable and much better feeling when you are playing it. You will need to learn how to solder properly, but that is a good skill to have so long as you don't use too much heat. Then if you want a big upgrade, install Duncan or Dimarzio pickups or Fender if a single coil type kit. Dimarzio has a 36th Anniversary PAF I'd like to buy and transplant in one of my current guitars and they are relatively affordable. For Strat or Tel kits, some of the OEM Fender pickups are very cheap and tons better than the Chinesium no name. Then you have a much higher quality, lower noise pickups that rivals or improves on $1000 Fenders or Gibsons. Excellent instructional video and a great way to make YOUR guitar exactly how YOU want it! You can go to a auto supply store and select from a thousand different colors including metallic, just be sure to put a clear coat over the metallic if you use it. Want a metallic purple like Danish Pete? You'll have plenty of choices and be ordered in aerosols or use a Preval sprayer with varnish thinned properly. Sorry for the long post, but this is a great avenue to lifetime of cheap fun!!!

[@guitar-academy]

Yes . . quite a post. But thank you for sharing your knowledge I'm sure anyone visiting the video who's serious about guitar finishing will get something out of it. . . 😀

[@Johns690]

The black wire is for the bridge pickup "B" black and "B" for bridge. The white one is for the "other" pickup.

[@daddski1]

Reasons it came out like it did. 1. after EACH coat you MUST sand again using at least a 320 or higher grit with 400 plus to 1000 grit being best. You have to do this guys if you want it to look fantastic. There is not corner you can cut. 2. Sand again lol and make sure you had removed all the marks BEFORE you put even one coat on. after your final coat you sand again using at least 400 but 1000 to 1500 grit is better. Make sure you are steady and get every spot perfect as you can do. After final sanding you should have a perfectly smooth surface that looks whitish in color. NEXT 3. You have to wax and buff it out. The best way I know is a three part thing. Using three different grades of polish. The first layer is very thin and you need to be thorough at it. get buffing pads and use a drill or buffing machine(you can buy in most areas for very little money, even buy used if you need to.) 4. After first thin polish there is the medium coat...just repeat like first polish layer 5.make sure you are buffing these coats well. finally the third coat which is the nest. if you apply as instructions tell you, buff as instructed... you will have something that rivals a shiny new factory made guitar. If you need help look up youtube videos. If no guitar videos are there look up car painting. It is the same steps and if you could afford it the same materials and paints too. Have fun

[@guitar-academy]

Sorry, but you completely missed the point this is the continuation of a review video and as I said in the first line of the video 'I am using the instructions provided'. The whole point of the video is to find out if you can make the guitar using nothing but the provided instructions with the guitar and on the varnish bottle . . . I even say at 7:22 that I'll show how to paint a guitar correctly.

[@toenhev17]

Sanding along the grain of the wood is the way to do it, never across it like you did, a fine grade of sandpaper lightly between each coat would be best

[@guitar-academy]

sanding between the coats is a common theme that a lot of comments have mentioned . . however you are the first to mention the direction of sanding . . good one . . 😀

[@arthurton365]

you need to wet sand the finish back to remove the "orange Peel" ..... this will flatten the surface allowing you to buff it to a high gloss.

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, that's great . . You have confirmed what other people have said in the comments . . 🙂

[@glenkepic3208]

I have a habit of commenting on vids before they finish. Not this one. I love SG's and viewed this clean thru. Turned out nice but one, wondered why the neck wasn't body tinted, two, concerned about the softness of the body wood and three, the 'bigsby'. Answer, personal choice, don't drop it and John Cipolina of QMS is on my short list of great SG players and he used one. I love the finished Axe !! man, Saga of SSF, Ca used to make kits of t's and s's. Late GP editor Tom Wheeler actually did an installment of an s kit as a father and son project. Turned out good. This was '01 or so. book case "American Guitars" and "The Guitar Book" written by Tom are side by side.

[@guitar-academy]

You answered your own questions correctly really but here of my thoughts anyway. I will do something with the headstock, but I will do a separate video on making your own decals and do it then. The softness of the wood is a concern, I knew it had no weight but I had no idea it was so soft until I started putting it together. My own working guitars all have trems on, so I find myself reaching for one even if the guitar doesn't have one . . LOL . . habbit . . . 😀 Great questions

[@anthonynightingale1816]

I like the earth trick with the tubing and the brass rod 😀 excellent finish all round...AAA +++

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . 🙂🙂

[@TariasNiniel]

Oof ... apart from that i find they could create a nicer more ergonomic "Neckjoint" for that (like on the Singecut kit) it looks actually really good, nice job. I really like the natural look on a SG bodyshape, and the grain of the wood does looks quite pleasing.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much . . Yes, the neck joint needs work. When I started this build I didn't want to change anything, so it's as it would be someone really young or inexperienced with handy work. But really it needs a little bit more finishing here and there. 🙂🙂

[@sonicpickups]

Try waxing the screws to help them enter when it's difficult. It will also reduce the chance of breakage.

[@guitar-academy]

I have had a number of good suggestions, yours being one of them. The next kit build I will try several to see which one works out best . . I think that would be a good test . . 😀

[@PastelComGini]

I tip that I read about but never tried: lubricate the screws with beeswax polish, candle wax, petroleum jelly or silicone spray before screwing. Do you think that it would have some side effect for not being water based?

[@guitar-academy]

I don't know but it would make a good video to compare the methods, don't you think 😀

[@anthonynightingale1816]

The reason you struggle with the neck screws are two fold ..... first you were using a pozidriv bit on a Phillips screw . secondly you should always coat each screw with candle wax.😀

[@guitar-academy]

Yes, other people have said the same so you are 100% correct

[@WilliamLithgowGuitars]

Surprised at the sound.! I see you like fingerstyle mostly. Yeah bro, Auld Billyboy here is gonna give it a go! Mucho thanks!

[@guitar-academy]

great fun . . The great thing is that you can make it as you want . . 😊

[@Alanoffer]

Wet and dry sandpaper in between coats may help but the great product is tru oil it is used for gun stocks and leaves a really hard satin coat with no brush marks but it needs many coats PS you’ve made a great job anyway

[@guitar-academy]

Yes everyone seems to agree with your prognosis . . I'm currently filming a job using Tru oil and yes it's taking forever . . 😊😊

[@bones2532]

Thanks for this nice vid! Clean sound is a little bit nosey imo, but the middle position wirh both pickups on actually sounds amazing. I also like the bigsby on it. Looks quite classy! Great job.

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you . . Yes I agree, I kept it as standard as possible and just tried to follow the instructions so it would act as part of the review, however the noise could be reduced with some screening tape. 😊 Considering the final cost it's an excellent instrument.

[@gregorystiller975]

High gloss is very differently made depending which company produces it. High gloss is used usually for a high traffic area like baseboard, as it is ver protective and makes it easier to clean. It is not very sophisticated for furniture or instruments . Lesson learned, your final result looked great!

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for the info! and thanks for watching 😊😃

[@okiedoak201]

I watched the complete series and you did a very good and comprehensive review....the sound seems very good for a kit ....the bigsby is a nice touch..

[@guitar-academy]

Thank you very much 😊😊

[@nym053]

When I get one of these, then I think I'll just try and use oliveoil, because that's also what I use to treat wooden kitchenware, and becsuse that's what I have. Judging by how it reacts with my varnished table, it seems like it goes through it or at least mixes with the varnish. If it doesn't do that with the varnish on the guitar, then I'll just whipe of the oil. But I'll see what happens 😊 And I will just go with a Duesenberg Les Trem ii. They're made to be swarpable with a Tunamatic bridge. Affordable and simple 😄

[@AndrewAHayes]

I wish you could buy just the neck and body as the hardware is usually rubbish on cheap kits

[@guitar-academy]

Not on this kit . . the body was the worst part. But you can just buy the bodies and the necks if that's what you want. 😀

[@AndrewAHayes]

@@guitar-academy I was trying to buy just a neck and body but Warmoth was too expensive and so was Crimson Guitars, do you know of any quality kits that are worth buying?

[@guitar-academy]

@@AndrewAHayessorry, not yet. I am going to review and build at least one of every make for my KZbin channel and then I can tell you honestly, but now I don't know. I think it also depends on the style. I bought this DC and the SC (Les Paul) style at the same time and the Les Paul body is way better quality than this one. I have also heard good things about 'Coban Guitars' but I don't know for sure. . . Sorry I can't be more helpful.

[@AndrewAHayes]

@@guitar-academy I have looked at a Wilkinson Kits from Stewmac and also some at Northwest Guitars, these both seem very good quality kits, especially the Wilkinson one, the Northwest ones are usually out of stock so you fill in an email notice so when they are in stock so you can make your order, these are not budget kits though.

[@davidcole5183]

Did you use steel wool between coats? That's how my dad taught me to get a lovely gloss finish with spar varnish on mahogany trim on our little sailboat we built together

[@guitar-academy]

not on this guitar, but steel wool has been suggested by someone else in the comments as well so I will try it. 😊

[@andywrollo2915]

Paint it on. Wet and dry fine paper between coats.

[@guitar-academy]

ahhh . . exactly as I would do with spray paint then . . . 😊

[@guitarsrcool4922]

Well I hope you don't have to return one of these HBs. They just sent me 2 of the exact same guitar. I informed them right away and now there telling me I have to take it to the Customs office and show them the receipt and get authorization basically to ship it back and I have to pay for the return shipping fee. I paid 66 bucks for 2 day shipping and it took 5 days. This is my 3rd time ordering from them, needless to say never again. Also there website says you have 30 days to return an item but they told me I have 24 days. They told me I ordered them separately so I said ' then why did they both arrive together at the same time '? No answer.

[@guitar-academy]

That's a good warning for people in the US . .

[@camilo1455]

I have read other stories about how they treat Americans badly. Must be true.

[@maxostlund9334]

What type of wood is the body? I can't find the DC kit at thomann or any other store anymore... Also really nice video I like your voice!

[@guitar-academy]

Sorry, I can't remember what wood it is now. They come and go from Thomann, just check back in from time to time because they come back in stock. Thank you about the voice, that's nice of you . . 😊😊

[@maxostlund9334]

@@guitar-academy ok cool thanks for the tip! Again great video!

[@guitar-academy]

@@maxostlund9334 Thank you . . Oh I found out what the wood is 'Rengas', I hope that helps. 😊

[@robertbuczkowski1438]

Also, make sure you lacker the guitar after the last sand and not after the lacker.

[@guitar-academy]

🙂

[@jamessharier7529]

The cost of the guitar is phenomenal but the shipping charges prohibit purchasing it. Did anyone in the USA find a place that would ship it more reasonably?

[@guitar-academy]

Sadly shipping has gone up a lot recently, and I have heard that Thomman aren't helpful at all if you have to return the guitar. I personally have had some bad experiences recently. Similar kits can be found in America through Amazon (so I've been told) 😊

[@brianmi40]

Didn't hear you mention or show wet sanding between each coat of lacquer... may have helped.

[@martinlouden9005]

It looks and sounds surprisingly good.

[@guitar-academy]

thank you . . 😊😃

[@dorfsteen]

Snug neck in the pocket is really good as long as there's no Gap it's perfect and don't use butter use wax that's my suggestion

[@guitar-academy]

Thanks for your suggestions . . I think wax or soap seem to be the most common suggestions. 😀

[@salintium]

I agree and snug neck is good especially if it's a glue in neck.

[@justpassingthrooo3505]

Well, i enjoyed the video. I am wondering about the soft wood which is used for the body and how some screws won't grip. Could a hole be drilled and glue a hard wood dowel work?

[@guitar-academy]

Yes potentially, but perhaps there are better kits in the same price range out there. This kit has been together now for a while and the soft wood isn't causing any issues so far apart from the marks it receives if you knock it . . 🙂

[@charliebuttocks2400]

4 ply bog roll is a excellent applicator

[@guitar-academy]

agreed . . 😊