Gusset or Fleegle Heel for Toe Up Socks

How to knit and turn a flap-free, gusset heel (also known as a Fleegle heel) for toe up socks.
Helpful Links
Introduction - 0:00
Where to Start the Gusset Shaping - 1:16
Knitting the Gusset - 4:48
Setting-Up for the Turn Heel - 7:33
Turning the Heel - 8:14
Knitting the First Round of the Leg - 14:23
Final Notes - 17:28
Featured in this Tutorial
Pattern: Free-Climber Socks - shop.thechillydog.com/product...
Yarn: Oink Pigments Oink Sock
Needles: skacel by addi Turbo Rockets
#thechillydog #FreeClimberSocks

[@knitlover1]

Thank you! I've been knitting off and on for 56 years, knitting socks a lot for probably 10, and I hadn't heard of this type of heel, just accidentally found it mentioned online somewhere. This is an excellent tutorial. I'd also never heard of a median increase, so thanks for that too! I've learned a lot on this first day of 2023, thanks to you. I greatly appreciate all the wonderful learning videos you provide. 🥰

[@kiddycar16]

Since having found this heel pattern I use it all the time. I love the fact that you don't have to count and it creates a heel for people who have high arches. The plus of this pattern is that it eliminate the holes between the instep and sole when resuming pattern for the leg.

[@summerking8659]

Ellen, I really appreciate this tutorial on WHERE exactly to start the gusset on toe up socks - thank you so much. Took me a while to find a video with the answer to my question, and now am looking forward to looking at further tutorials you have released. Again, many thanks :-)

[@emmaleehiggins4301]

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[@youngbloodsuz]

This is exactly what I needed.. to know how to calculate when to start the fleegle heel.. thank you! Suzette

[@christines1924]

What a clear explanation of the theory of Fleegle Heel!! this mathy person was grooving on it 🤣🤣😜😜

[@tamarafaurot]

Thanks for this. I hadn’t knit socks in years and couldn’t remember how I did the heels. I did some GSRs and W&Ts and tore them all out. Ugh! Then I found this! Hallelujah! There it is! My heel technique!

[@aggierowe9574]

Me too! I was following a pattern fine until I read the gusset and turn heel instructions that read like hieroglyphics. This video was super helpful.

[@teresacrain2060]

I can’t thank you enough for your videos. They’re so clear and they’re so easy to understand and I learned so much from them whenever I need to find something I go to your videos first. Thank you so much.

[@elizabethburley7954]

Very clear instructions, thank you!

[@siyaz]

I really appreciate your well-worded explanations. Thank you!

[@suzannestauffer7761]

Great tutorial! Thank you so much!!

[@lyndabaillargeon4955]

Love your explanations that are very easy to understand. Just cant wait to try it. Thank you sont much!

[@stefaniestaniak4329]

Great tutorial. Thank you.

[@vickielster3928]

Such a clear explanation! Thank you.

[@Mischiou]

Thanks so much this was a lifesaver. You're wonderful. Bless you.

[@eileennahan7830]

This was the best learning video ever.

[@caro1591]

Fantastic explanation. Thank you. ❤

[@dianepalec4694]

Thanks for the very clear instruction on the Fleegle heel. I appreciate all the photos of what the heel is supposed to look like as it's being done.

[@thechosenvoice3472]

Thank you! Your videos are so good I bought 4 of your sock patterns just to encourage you to keep designing and videotaping!!!

[@maria_knitknits8243]

Great video, thanks. I’ll try the fleegle heel in another sock project

[@CookwithCatalina]

Hello! I discovered this type of heel a while ago described as " stronger heel" . I am so glad that now I know how it's actually called. I work it from top down and it's the same technique. I just love it! Very easy and it looks so neat...I am finishing my second pair in this technique. Thank you for showing us in detail how is done!

[@marilynfischer5396]

THANK YOU so much for this video. It is easy for me to understand ...the video is wonderful and your directions stellar!

[@lbottino1034]

FINALLY ........ I have found the exact calculated answer to the question of WHERE to start the gusset for the Fleegle heel. I will not list the choices that I have found so far. This is the only method that makes perfect sense. Thank you, thank you ............. THANK YOU!!

[@judithbuist164]

Thanks for this instructional video. I tried several others but yours was the easiest to follow for my first toe up socks. Judy, Nelson Bay, Australia.

[@NYKnitter]

thank you, fantastic heel for my high arches , but what made this video extra helpful was the math, which helps when I have measurements but not access to the feet :)

[@zeith2000]

Thank you for this excellently worded, yet not drawn out tutorial. Everything was super clear! I've knit at least 4-5 pairs of socks using GSR and while I've finally been able to create even looking heels without holes this may be the next type of heel I try. Thanks again!

[@phf3238]

This is the best explanation of this technique I have found. A bit confused as to where to start the increases. Thank you very much.❤

[@SuperManinder1]

Wow this is amazing mathod of sock knitting. You explained very well. I have been watching and learning a lot from you. Thank you so much.❤❤you’re amazing.

[@yayitadelsur]

Thank you!

[@annemariemason5238]

Thank you for this video. I have just followed you whilst making my first pair of toe up socks. I am so chuffed with the results, I wish I could show a photo 🧶❤

[@carolehind1926]

I'm new to knitting socks. I did a German short row heel on my first pair. I will try this method which looks better. Fantasically clear instructions. Thank you

[@carrywilcox24]

Thank you for the thoughtful explanation. I have recently caught the sock knitting bug and can’t seem to knit anything else. I am discovering all the various toes, heels, lace designs and cuffs to use. It’s all so exciting. I’m currently stuck on German short row heel which works but I think the fleegle heel with be a sure fire ever time. Thank you!

[@vickilynch-griffin1542]

Going to watch a few more times before doing heel with same yarn

[@lissyperez4299]

Fairly new knitter and doing my first pair of real socks ( Did my 1st pair with worsted weight yarn just for practice).. This heel is great for a wider foot Or feet that have some swelling. For a wider heel, I started the heel 4 stitches beyond the center. Worked great.

[@sandydonaldson2338]

Was wondering why you did a variation of the pattern? Love the video

[@rosepaul9681]

I've made this style, but since I have average feet, it's too loose for my feet. I could see how well it would work for those with a high arch. I enjoy trying out different heels. I gave mine away to someone who loved the fit.

[@caroleblackham9278]

This looks like just what I need to eliminate the holes I keep getting doing gsr

[@intheparlance]

I was afraid of gussets before this video!

[@peepers4763]

Enjoyed watching the fleegle. The minor modifications made when turning the heel, what is the benefit of turning at the center rather than2 past?

[@thechillydog]

For this particular pattern, it was more for the visual effect, a contrasting triangle, than anything else.

[@amysmith9214]

Great video! A question... I made first Fleegle heel socks (love how easy!) and it did fit my high arch/instep with only a little bit of binding in the front of the ankle, I can still stretch it a little... My instep is 3 inches bigger than the ball of my foot. Is it possible to start the gusset a bit earlier and have it be more stitches than (total-2) by about 8 stitches (if my math is right)?

[@amysmith9214]

Make that instep is 12.5 and ball of foot is 8.5 for a --4-- inch difference. I knit 8 stitches to inch and 11 rows to inch. 64 st around foot and 68 above ankle

[@thechillydog]

Hi Amy. I haven't worked out the math, but what you're saying sounds like it could sort of work. I think you could start your gusset earlier. But instead of trying to just add more gusset sts, you'd need to work the heel side of the gusset across a few more than half of the socks stitches. Otherwise, the top corner of the turn heel won't match up with the gusset. If you give it a try, I'd love to know what happens.

[@mirjammanuhutu1528]

@@thechillydog i am dutch so maybe dont understand right: having 30 st on instep and 58 on heelside after gusset: Do i need to move 4 st of the instep stitches right side and 4 st left side to the heel side to get more stitches for the heel turn?

[@thechillydog]

@@mirjammanuhutu1528 Good question. No stitches are moved from the instep side to the heel side. You are just making increases on the heel side.

[@elissapitts2404]

What kind of increase are you using? Like mom would lift the strand from front to back then knit thru the back loop? Many thanks!

[@thechillydog]

If I remember correctly, I used knit 1 below increases for the gusset on this pattern, however you could use the make 1 increases (like mom). It would create a slightly different visual effect, but should technically work ok.

[@sharonholliday3202]

I'm following this video step-by-step to make the fleegle heel (after having made about 10 pairs of socks but this is the first for fleegle). In the video you state that you added in a new color yarn to work the heel turn but didn't do it on camera so I can't figure out where to bring in the new yarn. What would be the first stitch where you would put the contrasting color... a couple stitches prior to the middle of the start of the heel turn? Looks like that's what you did, but I can't be sure. Thanks in advance. Great video.

[@thechillydog]

You could join your contrasting color either at the center of the beginning of the turn heel or (a couple sts away from center) at the beginning of the first RS turn heel row. I don't think either would create a significant difference, especially since that spot is mostly unseen when wearing your sock. I have another video that shows exactly how I did the color change for these socks, kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnTMpqBvr6h8ors.

[@sharonholliday3202]

@@thechillydog Thank you so much! I am heading straight to that video right now!

[@sharonholliday3202]

@@thechillydog Oh, okay! I did watch your Russian join video but I didn't know exactly WHERE, in this pattern, to put the start of the color change. I suspected it was in the middle of the heel but then I couldn't figure out how to bring my main color back in later. Using the Russian join would take care of that. Thank you so much.

[@allisonbell1320]

This may be a silly question but how do you get 2 3/4 inches from .681? I'm having trouble figuring it out. Thanks.

[@lbottino1034]

I was confused too. Divide your gusset row # by the 1" row gauge NOT the 4" row gauge. That will give you the answer. "MY" gusset inc rounds would be 29 when divided by 11 rows which is 1" of my row gauge gives me 2.636. Using a 'googled' fraction conversion calculator that comes out to 2.5/8" So subtracting 2 5/8" from my 10" foot length gives me the gusset start point @ 7 3/8". I hope this helps.

[@sbkir]

Hi. Exactly where do you join the yarn for the contrasting color?

[@thechillydog]

For this particular pattern, the contrasting color at the center of the heel on the bottom of the foot.

[@pookaseekos]

Thank you for the great video. I also do not get how 30 divided by 44 comes out to 2 and 3/4 inches. I tried everything to get this and believe you probably have received other requests to clarify. Since my sock ratios are different, could you help me to understand how to get the total number I need from this easy math formula?

[@thechillydog]

Oops. I think you missed part of the equation. It wasn't 30 divided by 44. It's the number of rnds I needed to work (in this case 30 rnds) divided by my gauge (44 rnds/4 inches or 11 rnds/1 inch.) 30 rnds divided by 11 rnds/in equals 2 3/4 inches.

[@lbottino1034]

I was confused too. Divide your gusset row count by the 1" row gauge NOT the 4" row gauge. That will give you the answer. "MY" gusset inc rounds would be 29 when divided by 11 rows which is 1" of my row gauge gives me 2.636. Using a 'googled' fraction conversion calculator that comes out to 2.5/8" So subtracting 2 5/8" from my 10" foot length gives me the gusset start point @ 7 3/8" I hope this helps.

[@dkpaine]

It says Free climber socks but on your webpage it costs $9?? Is this a misprint?

[@thechillydog]

The word "free" in the pattern name is not a reference to price. Free climbing is rock climbing without the use of cables or ropes and the stitch pattern for these socks climbs from the toe up without the use of cables.

[@dkpaine]

@@thechillydog "aha", she said. I get it now.

[@sandydonaldson2338]

Question is this like your strong heel cuff down?

[@thechillydog]

Good eyes! The Strong (top-down) heel and Fleegle (toe-up) heel are both flapless gusset heels with the same overall construction. However, when you work from the toe up, the turn heel is at the back of the leg and when you work from the top down, the turn heel is at the bottom of the foot.

[@lisaalmonte2360]

I love your explanation of how to figure out when to start the gusset but my brain won't let me get it. I'm missing something. Is it too much to ask you to dum it down even more for peeps like me? Like literal step by step? (You divide 30 by 44 and get ***, then .....)

[@thechillydog]

Hi Lisa. I'll definitely keep that in mind next time I do a mathy thing. Thanks for letting me know. Happy knitting! 💖

[@lisaalmonte2360]

I meant now lol. I'm trying to figure it out for my current project, but my brain isn't working. If you don't have time, I completely understand. I just figured I'd ask. Great video overall!

[@thechillydog]

Email me with your sock circumference (in sts) and rnd gauge and I'll try to help.

[@lisaalmonte2360]

The Chilly Dog Thank you so much!!! My socks are 30 sts around and 42sts row gauge.

[@thechillydog]

@@lisaalmonte2360 Can you email me? (All of my contact information is available on my website www.thechillydog.com.) I'm happy to help you, but the detailed math is longer than I can fit in a comment.

[@mirandavikanderson6958]

I m lost with your math, you have 30÷ 44 = 0.6818181818, how are u converting it into inches? See i need to 24÷28= 0.8571428571. How many inches do I need. I did count my row gauge of 24, with a ruler, I get roughly 2.25 in. But I still have no clue how u got inch from 0.6818181818

[@thechillydog]

Oops... I think you missed part of the equation. It wasn't 30÷44, it was 30 sts ÷ 44 sts/inch (my gauge).

[@lbottino1034]

I was confused too. Divide your gusset row count by the 1" row gauge NOT the 4" row gauge. That will give you the answer. "MY" gusset inc rounds would be 29 when divided by 11 rows which is 1" of my row gauge gives me 2.636. Using a 'googled' fraction conversion calculator that comes out to 2.5/8". Subtracting 2 5/8 from my total foot length gives me 7 3/8" as the start point for the gusset inc. I hope this helps.

[@angelikapeac]

The words appear on the screen just on top of what she is doi ng , No way you can see it