How to Trench for Subterranean Termites the RIGHT Way. Everything you need to know. How and why.

There are a lot of videos about how to trench for termites, but this is the most comprehensive one on the web. It not only explains how to do it, but how subterranean termites work. Everything is totally explained. Do you really need to drill holes in your patio or driveway? Which termiticides you should use and which ones you should not use. Should you trench under your crawlspace? What is the RIGHT way to dig and fill in a trench? Does trenching always work? Do you always need to trench? How to give trenching a "boost" to make it work faster and better. If you have questions after watching this video, I will answer them in full detail. I won't ignore you or give you one-line answers that are not helpful. If you have a termite problem, then you have come to the right place.
Please note, sometimes I do not always receive posted questions from viewers or I do receive them, but KZbin does not allow me to respond to them. Sometimes I do not receive a question until six months after it was posted. These glitches do not happen often, but they do happen. It is my policy to respond to all questions within 48 hours, so if you do not hear from me in a couple of days, then please email your question to me at [e-mail]. Please do try to post questions in the comment section first and only use the email address if you don't hear from me. The reason for this is that other folks may have the same question, so it would be nice for them to learn as well. Thank you for your understanding and cooperation. Remember... I will always get back to you and there is never a fee for my service.
Video on how to identify termite species: • How to Identify Termit...
Taurus SC:
www.solutionss...
or
www.domyown.co...
FiPro termite foam: www.solutionss...
Termidor Foam: www.domyown.co...

[@justaskwhy1]

Thanks you Guy! Thanks for being a generous giving person. You have given me hope in getting out of my termite problem.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

What? I can't believe you did that. That was incredibly generous of you. Nobody has ever donated that much money before. I don't even know what to say here. I never expect people to donate any money at all to my channel, but I can tell you that it does go on long way toward improving the quality of my videos. This is almost enough to purchase a small monitor that I need to look at while I am shooting videos. Right now I have no idea what the camera is seeing because I am in the front of it and I have no videographer operating the camera. Therefore, I want to place a small monitor, that is about the size of a cell phone, on the camera tripod, so that I can see what the camera is seeing. This will save me a lot of time reshooting when the camera has my head chopped off or something. Thanks to you, I can now afford to buy this monitor, so thank you so much for that. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@chrisdspeer]

Hi Guy, I truly appreciate your efforts to gift agency to homeowners who would rather take pest control into their own hands. I’m treating an elderly handicapped couples home for termites, they are my neighbors and I spoke with them about their anxieties about not being able to afford to pay for the treatment of their home. It is a gift to have someone like you offer it he information in a manner that is easy to consume! Thank you for your time and consideration, it’s really a service to many!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Your are very kind for helping out your neighbors like that. Be well my friend.

[@ouchydoom]

Thanks, Guy! Your videos are a great help! It's difficult to find any decent pest control information online without contacting a pest control company. You always take the time to give direct advice on specific problems. It's nice for people to know there is a professional they can talk to about this stuff who doesn't have any skin in the game.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words and for the tip. Both are very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@SooperToober]

Thank you so much for your wealth of experience expertise and knowledge- I wish my professors at University spoke and taught as clearly and with clarity as you do. You take the fear out of learning by making the complex simple. Simply brilliant! ❤❤❤

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. What a nice thing to say. That is so kind of you. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@Leo6009]

Good day Guy, you may remember I trenched in front of the rocks along the front of my garden in front of the house in Oz. Thanks for your help at that time. We have monitored the results and we feel like pros. 😁😁😁😁. I could send you some photos of the work via email if you’re interested. You’re a good guy. Just so useful is your information and so much common sense with that makes your KZbin channel so valuable. Hope you’re well!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

That is so thoughtful of you to take the time to write such a nice comment. It makes me happy that I was able to help you. I always love to see photos. You can send them to [e-mail]. I'm glad that it all worked out for you. Be well my friend.

[@mariabyrne1954]

I'm in Australia too where do you get the termite killer granules Bayer? Is there a similar product here in WA

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I'm so sorry that I'm only getting to answer this right now. For some reason, KZbin did not send me your comment until this morning. They do that sometimes and I have had them hold comments for as long as 3 years already. If ever you ask me a question, and you do not get an answer within a few days, then please email me. The granules are only available in the US. You have different species in Australia, and not all of them behave the same way. Some species where you are require a more aggressive treatment. So, you need to identify the species to figure out how to treat properly. I am so sorry that I cannot be of further assistance. Be well my friend.

[@Queenenosia]

I wish i could tell everyone i know: WATCH GUY'S videos before you call a TERMITE PRO!!!! Appreciate your upmost honesty And straight forward and thourough explanations. The information om ur channel is a treasure chest of value. flawlessly thorough & everything i was seeking online after finding out i had termites!!! i did a hundred google searches and read a hundred useless articles that never explained what i wanted to know. I wish i could have found your channel sooner. 100% Liked & Followed.

[@Neptune730]

I used to work for an exterminator. I did the trenching. I also went under houses to trench around the piers. If it was to low we would spray the piers from outside really well.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Yeah. Me too. Sometimes all you've got is spraying the piers because the house is super close to the ground. In those cases, I will also just trench around the entire house too. Hey. You do the best you can. I'm happy for you that you moved on. That's a lot of work to be doing every day. Particularly in the summer. Way too hot. Be well my friend.

[@deanmohamed7575]

This man is wise. Listen to him. Dont argue with him.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words and for your support. Very much appreciated and humbling. Be well my friend.

[@pyewhackett1598]

So glad I found you today Guy. I bought a 120y olf small wood home, it was treated. However the bad wood was not removed and ORK__-pest company wanted to sell me another expensive treatment. Your knowledge will be used by me.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. You can do this. Probably even better than the pros. Be well my friend.

[@debbiebuxton2854]

I have watched several videos on termite treatment and hands down you are the most thorough. I can't thank you enough. The cost of living just keeps going up and wages stay the same. Termite treatment can get very costly. What a blessing to hear from a professional. Thanks again!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@black5254]

This entire video is great!! Best long KZbin I ever watched!!!! I’m glad didn’t skip this video.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@chhengte5185]

Thank you for your kindness to helping us to safe money especially during this time .God bless you and your family

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@freespirit1975]

You are a great resource. I wish you'd been on YT in 2006 but I guess you were still working and there was no You Tube! I wasted my time digging trenches too deep at first (like a foot), digging 10 ft at a time length, calculated the concentration of Bayer Premise needed and mixed with the bucket. I also pushed in a garden fork (potato fork) a few inches deep all along the trench, then flooded, then soaked the backfill. Saved most of my house but lost the worst area in front (didn't know) because winter came and was going to wait for Spring. The other area I got damage was where I drilled 1/2" holes along my patio (1 1/2' apart) then using a smaller pvc pipe with holes drilled in it making it into a screen and a funnel JB-welded to the top, pushing it down in the ground, and pouring solution in and letting it soak in-but it didn't work. My clay soil didn't take enough solution using just gravity and I got damage. I already had bait stations on the house perimeter and had saved one end of the house using the bait chemical that affects the termite molting (that type works), the stomach poisoning type does not. My stations along the patio picked up the termites and they devoured a wooden bait stick-I mean QUICK! They damaged my house in that area. That's when I called a pro. Using my boreholes, he had a pressure rod that he stepped on the trigger and man he really got some fluid under the patio. Actually had sand volcanoes coming out of the adjacent holes. Anyway he got enough down there to do the job. We trenched the rest of my house and were successful using Bayer's other, newer, non-repellent chemical.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thanks for sharing that story. Very interesting. The good news is that you only needed the pro to do the concrete, so you saved a lot of money there. The bad news is that you are no longer protected if you did the treatment in 2006. If it were me, I would install monitoring stations around the house. You can make them yourself for under 50 cents each. I will give you the link to the video. It sounds like you have dense soil, so termite granules may will not work for you but you can do a test to see. If the ground passes the test, then you should use the granules too. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should just use the monitoring stations. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make monitoring stations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/narIY2qXja2Fqbs Video on how to use termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_7&amp=&crid=6U9ASK6AJN8D&amp=&sprefix=termite

[@kayekirkes2484]

Thank you for this. I am going to watch all your videos and will have questions. We have active termites and will be trying to identify them soon. So thankful to know we probably can do this ourselves and save a lot of money on a fixed income. Bless you!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@henrym.5884]

I'm from Myanmar.Now my house was destroyed by Termites.Now I have a knowledge how to start to control by myself.Thanks for sharing knowledge about control termits. Deep Regards. KM.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@torresmaria842]

Just subscribed July 5, 2023.. I went to mom's funeral June 18 in St. Croix U.S.V.I. her house is build with cinderblock but the closet was eaten by termites. I started cutting the trees that were taking over the side of the house. Found a round big termite nest down on one of the trees and a bigger one about 50 feet away. The trees have the tunnel of brown where they travel. One of the closets is all chewed up

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I am so sorry that your mom passed. If you have termites in trees, then they could be Formosan. They are the only species that will eat live wood. If you do have them, then you have a serious problem. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. If these guys are Formosan, then please watch my video on how to treat them. Sometimes a less aggressive species will invade trees that are already dying, so you could get lucky, but you need to check. Formosan termites can destroy a house in a matter of months. Be well Maria. Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk Video on how to treat Formosan termites: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnXXeIiNrbKliNk

[@FirehouseJunkRemoval]

Hi Guy, first off thank you so much for the invaluable information and content you give for free. I watched every second of this (and most of your videos) with that I will be thorough as well to try and paint my picture. Recently I discovered active termites in our property from frass coming out of the wall in three small spots.I climbed into the attic and saw a small mound and poked it with a stick and yes active termites which were about 5--7 feet to the side from where the frass was protruding. So I discover your videos and watch most on termites and due to the frass I assumed they were drywood termites (I am located in north Texas). I had three companies come out to give me quotes and they all stated they were subterranean. My home is one bathroom which is located in the center of the house with all the other piping (laundry room) the companies believed they were coming up through the bath drain area in the center of the house which is close to the location of the frass. As far as the outside, my property has two driveways to enter from so I have a lot of concrete coverage quite large actually. So as for my questions.. 1. Does my information sound like subterranean termites? 2. With having all that concrete should I allow the companies to drill holes to input the termiticide or do you believe I would be good just doing the pellets or trenching the yard myself? And would you recommend pellets or trenching or both? 3. Spot treating they wanted to spray through a small cut open hole to where the bath piping is and foam the wood frass protruding areas of wood.. Spot treating quotes were $300 and to do everything including spot treating and outside trenching and drilling concrete were between $950-1250. I feel I can do most myself but wasn't sure especially with all the concrete. Once again THANK YOU so much for all your time and information as i'm sure you have helped countless people. Hopefully my question will help answer others as well. God bless.

[@FirehouseJunkRemoval]

Also one more thing, I did recently spray Bifen I/T around the house for mosquito and bug control before I had found out about the termites. Would that be an issue for trenching or using the granules on the ground?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@FirehouseJunkRemoval If you live in North Texas, then the pest controllers are probably correct that you have subterranean termites, because drywood termites are not known to exist that far north. However, termites in the attic is a red flag, and you need to check to make sure that these guys are not Formosan termites. Try to dig out a specimen with a red head and then watch my video on how to identify termite species. If you find out that they are Formosan, then I need to explain how to go after them. Just use a flathead screwdriver to dig into the wood in the attic and get out a specimen with a red head. Put it in a jar and let it die. Then you can have a good look at it. For me to be able to tell the best way to treat this, I would need to see photos of all sides of the property, from the house to the property line, and to the street. After I take a look at it, I will be able to tell you if you need to drill the concrete or if this is something that you can take care of yourself, with either the granules or by trenching. You can send the photos to [e-mail]. Please remind me of your KZbin name when you send the photos, so that I know who you are. I am somewhat surprised that they want to spot treat this problem. I usually advise homeowners to do both an exterior treatment and a spot treatment inside the house, but most professionals do not spot treat for subterranean termites. I think it's a great idea, so I am happy to see that there are some pros out there that have finally figured it out. Anyway, spot treating is super easy to do, so you certainly do not need a pro to do that. In fact, most of the pros do not do it correctly anyway. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. Drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. Inspect for exit holes in all the walls and woodwork. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you have a slab home, then you may find them going up the outside of the house on the slab and even the side of the house. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated. Spot treating alone is kind of like throwing a Hail Mary pass. Sometimes it will take out the whole colony, but it is a good idea to treat the outside with either the granules or trenching. Hopefully, you will be able to use one of those methods, and I will let you know after I see the photos. Meanwhile, you can go ahead and do the spot treatment. Don't forget to spot treat the attic too. The Bifen IT you sprayed should not pose any problems with termite treatments. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html

[@DAS-Videos]

I used Taurus SC in 2019 and it rid all the termites relatively quickly, and I haven't seen a termite since. It is an amazing product. It is expensive but worth every penny. I monitor for termites by simply placing blocks of soft wood pressed into the dirt in various spots and look under them every couple of weeks. If termites are around they find them fast.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

The termites will most likely find the wood blocks, but it is a good idea to get them a couple of inches deep. I like monitoring stations better though because you just need to look at them to see if there are termites. If you treated in 2019, you should be good until at least 2024. Probably longer than that. Be well my friend.

[@DAS-Videos]

@@GuysPestSolutions I am constantly looking for bugs in my yard; termites, carpenter ants, and Lantern flies and emerald ash beetles included :-)

[@jodigurl72]

Thank you sir! You are a blessing to us people who are struggling financially and find that they have termites and can't afford a professional exterminator. And know you have to do something and do it yourself and pray it works! Thank you again! I ha

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@javierbiaggi3072]

Very good advices! I'm a retired rice mill superintendent and I did all my pest control in house and man we were very vigilant on all pests that try to get a piece of our products. It was quite complex because we were treating so many different areas all cover by 14 different categories that I have to be licensed. Of those, only the Aerial Application Category I could not apply because pilot license was a pre requisite although I took the course just for fun and knowledge and approved it. I tell you this not to show off but to confirm what you said there's nothing in stone regarding to pests but you have to be aware of the least common of the senses the elusive common sense and never relay on one thing. Your approach is spotless why spend many dollars is there is a simple and inexpensive way. For a brief time I worked for a extermination company as branch manager I enjoy solving complex problems to pharmaceutical companies, restaurants and many small industries simply and inexpensive. I enjoy your shows very much and thanks for sharing your experiences with such generosity.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@baja1980s]

You’re awesome, thanks for sharing so much information, here in Florida, Clermont area and having many black widows and spiders in my area, home is located street across from a pond so I know that doesn’t help but it’s incredible the information you are sharing with your other videos. Thank you and hope your well. ✅💯🫡👍🏽

[@VS-vs3nn]

GUY IS THE BEST WHEN IT COMES TO GETTING RID OF PESTS! Vince from Chicago!!!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much. That is so kind of you to say. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@ronball7356]

25 years ago I was a licensed applicator. You've taught me things I never thought of, like why should we drill inside the house? (Because I was taught to, smh) ! Thanks!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much. That was so kind of you to do. Very much appreciated. Be well Ron.

[@pratapbhanur]

Nicely shared important knowledge on termites world’

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@cortneyoverstreet8130]

Love the analogy of the termites that are homebodies vs ones that like to go out to eat and bring takeout back lol

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much. That is very kind of you to say. Since you live in Florida, you have very sandy soil, so the granules should work well for you. I don't think you need to trench. I live in Florida too and the granules have never failed me. However, should the granules let you down, then you can always trench. Be well Cortney.

[@RobW-tz9qu]

Really great, clear explanations and step by step instructions, Guy. A couple of questions: I found 1 tunnel up the side of my slab. This is brand new. After I confirmed that it was created by termites (and I had no prior idea what they looked like), I realized that there were some in my raised organic gardens approx. 15 ft from my house. When I was pulling up extraneous growth in the raised beds, I discovered quite a few "sprouted" pecan nuts with what appeared to be tiny white worms infesting these nuts. While I had pulled out sprouted pecans in previous years, I never had the termites. And since we do not have any pecans in our neighborhood, I assumed that squirrels or rodents had been burying them there. However, I now believe these nuts and perhaps the termites came in to my garden via the commercial organic compost mix that I till into my beds every February. And this year, perhaps I got termites with the mix. Question: how can I treat the termites in my raised organic beds without introducing toxins? Can I sprinkle the termicide granules around the outside of the beds? I'm not too worried about the wood sides of the beds, as I just replaced them last year, and used preservative treated cedar. And finally, once I treat my house by trenching, should I also spray thermicide into the space the termites have been accessing into my house? Thanks.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Okay, there's a lot to unpack here. If you trench around the house, then there's probably no need to do a spot treatment. These guys are obviously subterranean termites, so the trenching should do the job all by itself. While you could treat the damaged areas, it is probably not necessary. The treatment takes up to 12 weeks to be effective because we need to give the termites time to bring the termiticide back to the colony. You can monitor the progress with the mud tube. Two weeks after you finish trenching, just scrape off about a 2 inch section of the mud tube. See if there are any live termites in there. Then wait a few days to see if they rebuild it. Do this every two weeks until there are no more termites and they are not rebuilding the mud tube. At that point, your infestation is most likely gone. I cannot promise this for certain, but there is a very good chance that the treatment you do on the house will also eliminate the infestation in your garden. That is because subterranean termites never colonize in your home. They always colonize in the ground someplace and there is a very good chance that the colony attacking your house is the same colony that is attacking your garden. When you treat the house, that will take out the entire colony, so that will also treat the garden. Now, this is not a sure thing because there could be two colonies, but the odds are that there is only one. I am kind of getting the feeling that you are reluctant to use pesticides in the garden, so let's see if the house treatment will get it done for you. If it doesn't, then the best thing to do is to apply the granules directly over the areas where you are seeing with termites. Farmers do this all the time, and it will not present any health hazards. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@noahmurray4633]

I have a wet crawl space with active sub terranian termites in south Jersey. I’m in the middle of installing a French drain under there along with a full encapsulation and dehumidifier. I’m planning on spot treating the tubes with the foam than going to buy your red eye monitoring system to put around my yard. I was advised from pest companies not to do a termicide because I have a high water table and more importantly I have well water. And you don’t wanna pump that stuff near a well. I wanted to hear your input thank you

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Are you installing the French drain under the crawlspace or on the outside of the building? It sounds like you were doing it under the building, which is okay, but if you do it on the outside of the building, then you don't want to get too close to the house, because that will prevent you from doing termite treatments. I do not necessarily agree with the pest control companies you spoke with about not treating the exterior of the building with a termiticide. I can't help but wonder if they dug any test holes to see if they were able to do a trenching treatment. It's pretty simple really. You just dig holes in several places around the building that are 6 inches deep. If you hit water, then do not trench. If you do not see water, then there is no reason not to trench. The termiticide will bond with soil, so it will not be going anywhere. If your well is not within about 8 feet of the house, then I would not be concerned about it at all. So, if I were you, I would get a shovel I just dig a couple of test holes on each side of the building. If your house fails the hole test, then I would be happy to give you the procedure to spot treat the termites. For spot treating to be effective, you must do it correctly. Please note that the red eye stations should not be used for an existing infestation. They were designed as a preventive measure only. While they do a wonderful job preventing subterranean termites, they are not a good choice for treating an active infestation. That being said, if you spot treat for the termites, and if it is successful, then installing monitoring stations around the house would be a very good idea. As luck would have it, I am currently in the process of doing the postproduction on a video that will show you how to make your own monitoring stations out of disposable water bottles for under $0.50 each. The red eye stations cost about $15 each, so that is the savings of about $14.50 per station. If you make them yourself, which is super quick and easy to do, you can probably place them around your entire house for under $25, and you can locate them at 4-foot intervals, instead of the 8-foot intervals that you need to use with the red eye stations. That means the termites are way more likely to find them. I expect to have this video released sometime next week. If you subscribe to my channel and click on that little notification bell, then you will get notified when the video is posted. I hope that helps. Please let me know if the test holes fail, and you need guidance on how to do the spot treatment. Be well my friend.

[@tysontomko]

Hello Guy! I recently found about 50 swarmers on the inside and outside of my garage window. Quick backstory. I was doing landscaping work at the time in my backyard with my garage door open, planting and working near my foundation. I took a break to go look at my phone while sitting in my garage. I then saw about about 20 to 30 swarmers bouncing off the glass. Some were also on my dryer hose above the window but I couldn't clearly see if they were coming in or were emerging from inside. There is a slight gap where that hose meets the wall. I grabbed shop vac and went to town. After about 10 min they were gone. I then went back outside and on the outside of the window and general 10 foot area were just as many swarmers. I killed most of these by hand and unable to find where they were coming from. I go back in garage, then into adjoining laundry room to see another 20 or 30 swarmers at the window. My laundry room shares a wall with my garage and plenty of gaps and cracks for various hoses. All of that said, I killed the swarmers and for another few minutes would see some on my garage floor here and there I'd squish. That was all yesterday. They were localized to that general area and I didn't see any on 2nd floor or other first floor rooms. Today I'm looking all over and have found no mud tubes (no crawlspace thankfully) and besides some wings from yesterday no other evidence of termites. I've lived he 14 years and seeing these for first time. So my novel aside, my big question is do you think there is a colony in my walls somewhere? Is there a chance I stirred something to digging in my landscaping (lots of rotted tree buds and leaves) and the swarm then came in my house via hose gap or wind/ open garage door? I live in Illinois if that helps. I'm torn on what to do next and thinking about sticking a boroscope in my wall to look for any traces since I've learned they can live in moist wood without needing to return to soil? Thanks again for the great videos

[@GuysPestSolutions]

It is very helpful then you told me where you live. There is a very high probability that you have an infestation of subterranean termites. They do not colonize in your house, but they like wet wood. They always colonize in the ground, usually within at 300 foot radius of your home. So, let's talk about how to treat them. There are two options for treating subterranean termites yourself. The easiest way is to use termite granules. It costs less than $60 to do and it only takes about an hour. The application is so easy that a child can do it. The other option is to trench around the entire building, including the driveway. It takes about a day for most people to trench around an average sized building and it only costs about $100 to do the job. Trenching lasts for 5 to 10 years, but the granules should be applied every year as a preventive measure. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. You can give any subterranean termite treatment a bit of a boost by doing a spot treatment. If at all possible, spot treating for subterranean termites should not be the only approach to eliminate an infestation. An additional exterior treatment should also be done with either granules or trenching, whenever possible. Spot treating alone may totally eliminate the infestation with no other treatments, but it's not a sure thing. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas or areas where you think there is activity, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to apply termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k2_1_4&amp=&crid=2GLEQCE9S5RV&amp=&sprefix=term FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html?pdpv=2

[@tysontomko]

@@GuysPestSolutions I cannot thank you enough for the great advice! I'm going to try using the granules as most of my house is surrounded by dirt (some under rock) and maybe go hog wild next yearc and full on trench. Thank you again

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@tysontomko You are very welcome. The granules have always worked for me. Be well my friend.

[@ShirleyRheinhart]

Hello Guy, Thank you for your videos. However, I lived in a 1925 twin home in Philadelphia. The home has a front lawn, about 10 feet long, and along the side and the rear , the house has a stone wall about 6 ft high and the ground areas has concrete blocks along the side and rear of the house. I have a termite infestation that ate away the riser of the bottom step in my living room, and buckled several areas of the oak flooring near that area. We removed pieces of the steps and saw that the bottom horse of the step had been eaten away too. Checked the ceiling joist in the basement that supports that areas of the step and found that about 6 lineal ft has damage in the center. It appears they had been eating for some time. The basement floor is cemented; however there is an area where they ran the drain pipe that is on top of a dirt floor. And I saw dirt tubes that was on the post holding up a portion that supports a powder room on a landing between the basement and the first floor. The dirt is loose in that area, but no room to trench nor is the dirt deep. The basement is finished and do not know how to treat this area.. Would removing the dirt as much as possible and then foaming.? Do I need to bore the concrete in that area on the outside and treat with Taurus SC? Looking forward to your response.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Can you send me photos of all of this? I really need to look at it to determine the best way to go after these guys. My email is [e-mail]. Send photos of al sides of the house from the house to the property line and photos of the area in the basement where you are having a problem. Please allow a couple of days for me to look at everything and answer the email. Don't worry. Even though there is a lot of damage, this species actually east very slowly. There is a lot of damage because the infestation has been there for a long time. I hope that helps. Be well Shirley.

[@BreakTheShell739]

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

[@AlexK-t3o]

Thank ❤! Can you please explain how to trat the house on wooden or concrete stumps? Again, thank you so much for your valuable advice.❤

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for reaching out to me. I will do my best to assist with this. I'm just a little bit confused though. I would like you to clarify something for me. Are you saying that your house was built on tree stumps? I have never heard of that before. If this is the case, then it would be helpful for me to see some photos of what you have going on. You can send photos to [e-mail]. if you send photos, please explain one more time in the email what is going on. Also, please give me your KZbin name. That way I can read your original comment again. I would also like to know where you live. When it comes to termites, location matters, because different areas of the world, or even the US, have different species of termites. Different species of termites behave differently, so it is important to understand exactly what you are dealing with before you start to treat. Finally, I always answer questions within 48 hours, but KZbin does not always allow me to do it. I don't know why they do it, but sometimes they delete my responses before people get to read them. Other times, KZbin does not send me comments from people at all, or they delay sending them for months. So, if you do not hear from me within 48 hours after you make a response, then you need to send me an email. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@hurstnuckols2610]

Hi Guy! Thank you for the video! Very good realistic view on termite control! I had a question. I’m dealing with a rather severe infestation in my home. They have devoured 2 walls, floor joists, subfloor up to the top plate and ceiling joists. I found them when paint started bubbling around a door that was getting tough to close. I spot sprayed that area with 0.06% Taurus solution and left for several days. The activity disappeared by the next day. I traced the damage removing the plaster into an adjacent room and that’s when I found the damage in the crawl space. I spot treated what looks to be a pretty high activity tunnel found while pulling/vacuuming out the remains of the subfloor and floor joist. I sprayed this area and the underside in the crawl space with Taurus. I have done a parameter treatment of the house with Taurus at 8 gal/10’ (for roughly 2’ foundation depth). The area they are coming in is between the old exterior field stone foundation wall/brick veneer and where a slab was poured against it to add on a sunroom. I treated the parameter of the sunroom and brick patio attached to that corner of the house. Is there anything else you would recommend given the challenges of the foundation? Am I doing any good spraying the wood and mud they are in when I find it, or has my disruption already signaled them to move elsewhere and there won’t be enough coming into contact with the Taurus to kill the colony? Also, how long should I wait before I tear out the damaged area and rebuild it all? I am hoping to get moved in here in a couple months but also want to do what I need to make sure the termites are gone.

[@TrueHearted78]

On my way to search for Treatments of other Termites on your channel. 1st home owner here (3 months). And we've spotted a cpl on the kitchen window. Thanks for your time an knowledgeable expertise

[@GuysPestSolutions]

How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk

[@kb4ns]

First, thank you for all the great videos and sharing your knowledge! I recently bought a brick home on a concrete slab built in 1986 in southwest Tennessee. In June, it had a termite inspection that revealed no concerns. There are holes drilled in the brick all around the exterior (holes are about 3/4" diameter, 18" above the ground, and spaced 24" apart - and they are not weep holes - the walls have standard weep holes where mortar was withheld). The previous two homes I lived in here in the Memphis area had similar holes all the way around the exterior as well and I have always assumed that these holes were where the pest control people applied termiticide. But I can find no reference anywhere online to this practice; the only references I can find to drilled holes are down into concrete, not into brick walls. I'm wondering if it's something that is unique to certain areas like mine since I've had these holes in different homes serviced by different companies. Is this something you have heard of? And if it is, would you recommend I use a certain product and apply it into the holes? Or should I just plug them and use other methods you talk about in your videos? Thanks in advance!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Drilling holes like that in the exterior of the brick would not be consistent with common pest control practices. I have learned over the years to never say never in pest control. Just when you think you've seen it all, someone comes up with something new. That being said, I can think of no reason why at pest controller would wish to do that. Pest controllers have been known to drill holes through concrete block, but it is typically done on the inside of the home for foundations. So, this would certainly not apply to you. I do not claim to be an expert with regard to brick veneer, but my best guess is that the existing weep holes were found inadequate for some reason. I can think of no other reason for drilling holes every 24 in apart around the building. I find it very strange that you have seen this on more than one building. If it were me, I would call a contractor that specializes in installing brick, and ask if they have ever seen it before. In any case, I think this is more related to a construction issue rather than a pest control issue. If the holes were drilled to allow moisture to escape, then it would be unwise to fill them in. That being said, those are very large holes and do present the opportunity for pests to enter. Therefore, it may be wise to push some Stuf-Fit into the holes to prevent pests from entering. This will allow moisture to escape, but it will prevent pests from getting in. This material is made out of copper, so it will not rust. I'll give you a link to it. I'm so sorry that I cannot be more assistance. I hope you have a very Merry Christmas. Be well my friend. Stuf-Fit: www.amazon.com/Stuf-fit-Copper-Mesh-Control-30/dp/B00149P89E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=stuffit%2Bcopper%2Bmesh&qid=1703443094&sr=8-3&th=1

[@northeastoperations]

First I would like to say thank you for your videos and continuing to comment on them! I have an unusual situation. I tested to see if the granules would work by digging the hole that you mentioned to see how fast the water would drain out of it. digging a small hole consumed a lot of time and effort. I added the water and now I have a permanent little pond next to my home. the soil seems to be an interesting mixture of hard clay, clay that has formed into small rocks, large rocks and gravel. After doing research, I have noticed that companies will drill into concrete and inject the poison at regular intervals. literally drilling the soil around my house every six inches would be vastly preferable to the several week long process of digging a trench. would the treatment be just as effective if I drill a 1/2 inch hole, eight inches down, spaced every six inches around my entire home? Again thank you for your response!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I'm sorry to say that you cannot do the drilling and rodding yourself. You can drill the holes, but the treatment needs to be done under pressure. You can't just pour in the pesticide. Rodding is a lot easier, but you need special equipment to do it and it's expensive to purchase. So, that is best left to the pros. Trenching through hard dirt isn't easy, but you can do just 10 feet at a time. If you do 10 feet every day after work, it will be done before you know it. Also, if you can see where the mud tubes come up from the ground, you can place a bait station right there and you may be able to avoid trenching altogether. Please watch my video on how to make bait stations. It doesn't always work, but it does work most of the time. If the termites start eating the bait, then it's a done deal for them. If they don't take the bait, then you can always trench later. I will give you a link to the video on how to make them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bait station video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGGYi2CXiq-Yntk

[@jakedones2099]

I will subscribe. For your honesty. And your helpfulness

[@GuysPestSolutions]

That is very kind of you to say. Thank you so much. Be well my friend.

[@chadwickcooks]

Thank you for taking the time to help me and others. It is much appreciated. I have learned a lot from your videos. You are the Man Guy.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much. That was so thoughtful of you. I am so happy that I was able to be of assistance to you. Also, thank you for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@Intentionaltia]

I’m using Navigator SC, I already purchased it! It has 0.8 fipronil per gallon! It is also non-repellant. Thanks for such thorough explanation Guy!😊

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Navigator SC is the same thing as Taurus SC or Termidor SC, so you are good to go. The only reason I don't mention Navigator SC is because I have not used it and I do my best to only recommend products that I have actually worked with. Navigator SC has the same exact concentration of fipronil, so there should be no difference. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@Intentionaltia]

@@GuysPestSolutions Understood! Thanks again!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@Intentionaltia You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

[@glennfelpel9785]

You are truly remarkable. Thank you

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@joeprimal2044]

Awesome video. So helpful!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@encouraged7607]

We so appreciate you! Thank you so much. We are on fixed income and are older, but need to try to do this ourselves. Thank you for such detialed instructions.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@peterclemmins7099]

Thanks a million buddy! Subscribed. I like your style. I'm always DIY and I hate spending too much money.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words and for subscribing. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@baba-sm1fm]

I am so happy to have found your channel!! Your videos are gold! Full of helpful information. I had my house treated when I purchased it in 1997, the company said that the window air conditioner was the water source to the subterranean termites ( I live in Missouri), We got rid of the air conditioner and got central air, but fast forward 5 years, I wanted to assure the termites were gone and had another company come out to inspect, they said there were termites there and treated the perimeter, but I watched the person and he was just spraying the product around the perimeter without doing any digging, I had no idea this was wrong until now after watching your video. I have noticed there are dead winged termites sometimes in the rooms upstairs and just this week I noticed an empty channel in one of my oak floor, this was not there before or maybe it was and only now showing to the surface. this board is close to the brick chimney ( only for furnace and water heater exaust). I will defenetely do the treteament around the house perimeter like you showed, I am so thank full for your video! God bless!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those very kind words. You know, more and more, I am hearing one horror story after the other about professional pest controllers. I'm really finding it difficult to wrap my head around it. While it is true that termites do like water, the air conditioning unit that they said was causing the termite problem was not actually causing the termite problem. The termite problem was caused because there was a colony of subterranean termites located somewhere within a 300-foot radius of your home. It is certainly true that having wet ground is helpful to the termites, but, in all likelihood, they would have attacked your house anyway. If the treatment was properly done in 1997, then there would have been no reason for you to remove that window air conditioning unit. Clearly, the company that treated without digging a trench around your home did not do the job correctly. I wouldn't even want to venture a guess on what that person actually treated with. In any case, that treatment is not going to work. If you are finding winged termites in your home, then, in all likelihood, you do have an active infestation of subterranean termites. There are actually two ways you can come at this. Of course, you can dig a trench around your home as I described in my video and that will most likely be 100% effective. The other option is to try a much easier and less expensive approach. You can simply apply termiticide granules around your home and then water them in with a garden hose. I know, this sounds too easy to be true. However, this method of treating subterranean termites works about 95% of the time. That is a little less than the 100% that you get with trenching, but it is way easier to do and it is generally worth taking the risk. So, if you don't mind, I would like to give you just a bit of advice. Go around your house and look for mud tubes. You will usually find them on the exterior of the house and they will be coming up from the ground on your foundation. If you don't see any mud tubes on the outside of the building, then, if you have a crawl space, go under there and look for mud tubes under the house as well. If you do not find mud tubes under the house, then go up in the attic and see if you can find any up there. Most of the time, you are going to find mud tubes in one of these places. If you can locate at least one mud tube, then that will allow you to monitor the activity of the termites. So, go ahead and treat with the granules instead of trenching the house. I will provide you with a link to my video on how to properly treat with granules. After you do the treatment with the granules, then wait about four weeks and break open a two-inch section of the mud tube and look to see if there are any termites in it. If you see termites, then wait another two weeks and do it again. If there are active termites, they will rebuild the mud tube. It can take up to eight or nine weeks for the granules to work, so be patient. Just scrape off a two-inch section of the mud tube every two weeks and check for activity. If you are still seeing activity after 10 weeks, then you are going to need to trench. However, if there comes a point where there are no more termites, and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated and there will be no reason to trench. The granules only cost about $50, so it's not much of an investment to save a whole lot of backbreaking trenching. Don't worry about waiting 8 to 10 weeks for this to work because subterranean termites are very slow eaters and will do almost no more damage within that relatively short period of time. Now, you should know that trenching will last five to ten years, with seven years being the average. However, the granules must be applied every year. If you apply the granules every year, then you will never have another subterranean termite infestation. Now, it is very important to purchase the correct granules and I will put a link below to the exact product that you need. I hope that helps. If you give the granules a try, please let me know the result. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat subterranean termites with granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY BioAdvanced Termite Killer 700350A granules: www.amazon.com/BIOADVANCED-700350A-Perimeter-Treatment-Granules/dp/B000RUIJYM/ref=sxts_rp_s_1_0?adgrpid=1342504832925931&content-id=amzn1.sym.14b5a3ec-ddf3-42f1-bf1e-8515f8d25a34%3Aamzn1.sym.14b5a3ec-ddf3-42f1-bf1e-8515f8d25a34&cv_ct_cx=termite+killer+bioadvanced&hvadid=83906755322577&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=72390&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83907333654521%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=29859_14561483&keywords=termite+killer+bioadvanced&pd_rd_i=B000RUIJYM&pd_rd_r=7862750f-c143-42e6-9f12-4d642ac9349f&pd_rd_w=ZEivb&pd_rd_wg=snR54&pf_rd_p=14b5a3ec-ddf3-42f1-bf1e-8515f8d25a34&pf_rd_r=CFJW2B034TAAS4HZNTJ8&psc=1&qid=1655478271&sr=1-1-f0029781-b79b-4b60-9cb0-eeda4dea34d6

[@baba-sm1fm]

@@GuysPestSolutions I appreciate that you took time out of your day to write back to me and to help with my situation, it means a lot to me. I had never heard about termites until I moved to the US from Italy in 1993, over there our houses are built out of stone and concrete so we don't have this worry. I work this week-end, but next week I will go on a hunt for termite tubes like you instructed. If I don't find termites tubes in the crawl spaces or around the house, or up in the attic, I am thinking about treating with the granules anyway because I have found termites in my Back yard, they had infested a few of my fence boards only about 10-15 feet away from my house. I will keep you updated with developments. Appreciating you for being such a kind human being, have a fantastic day!!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@baba-sm1fm Always my pleasure. Keep in mind that, even if you do not find the mud tubes, you still may have termites. Most of the time you will find mud tubes somewhere, but not always. If you don't find mud tubes, the granules may still work, but you will have no way to monitor to see if they did. All you can do is wait to see if the termites swarm again. So, in the absence of mud tubes you may want to trench to be sure you got them. The granules work about 95 percent of the time, but that is not a sure thing. There is still some risk. Personally, I have never had them fail on me, but they can fail if the soil is too dense. If the soil around your home absorbs water easily, then you will most likely be okay. An easy test you can do is to simply pour some water on the ground next to the house. If the water leaches into the ground right away, then you are probably fine, but if the water just puddles and does not leach much, then trenching may be best. Welcome to America. Italy's loss is definitely our gain. I am Italian as well, but I was born in the US. My grandparents immigrated in the early 1900's. Be well my friend.

[@baba-sm1fm]

@@GuysPestSolutions Grazie Paesano!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@baba-sm1fm Always my pleasure. Be well my friend.

[@DAS-Videos]

That was my thinking too, about the drilling. Termites like wet dirt and after a rain some will travel from under the patio to other areas. When the perimeter is poured, I think it doesn't take long for the termites to go into the wet treated dirt and spread the chemicals throughout their paths that go under the patio.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

If you trench around the patio, then they will pass through the termiticide on their way under it. The idea is that you need a continuous barrier from the street, around the house, and back to the street. No drilling required in most cases. Be well my friend.

[@PaulB-iw4wg]

Guy, you are best! Do you have a video on using non repellent once they are already in the house?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You can give any termite treatment a bit of a boost by doing a spot treatment. If at all possible, spot treating for subterranean termites should not be the only approach to eliminate an infestation. An additional exterior treatment should also be done with either granules or trenching, whenever possible. Spot treating alone may totally eliminate the infestation with no other treatments, but it's not a sure thing. That is because subterranean termites live in the ground and not in your house. They travel to and from the colony, that is most likely located within a 300 foot radius of your home. Trenching or the granules will provide a higher dose of the pesticide and ensure that you are not getting attacked from another side of the house as well. To spot treat subterranean termites, you need to buy a fipronil foam. I will provide links for two products that you can choose from. I like the FiPro the best because it's a little less expensive and I like the applicator tip better, but the Termidor Foam also works very well. The FiPro is not available everywhere. If you can get one of these foams, then drill holes in all damaged areas, that are 4 inches apart, and drilled about halfway through the wood. If you are seeing exit holes in the wall, then there is most likely a stud behind the exit hole. Get a stud finder and locate the stud where it meets the ceiling and drive a small nail into the stud a couple of inches below the ceiling. Attach a weighted string to the nail and that will show you where the stud is. Then drill the holes 4 inches apart along the entire length of the stud, about 3 inches deep. Do the same thing for woodwork, except only drill the holes halfway through the wood. If you think that there is a 2 x 4 behind the woodwork, then drill a 3-inch-deep hole every 8 inches. The holes only need to be wide enough to get the applicator tip of the foam can into the hole. After the holes are drilled, then shoot the foam into each hole for about 5 seconds or until you have foam either coming back out at you or coming out the other holes that you drilled. All the holes should have foam either going into them or coming out of them. This will contaminate their food source and they will take the fipronil back in the colony and spread it around to the other termites. Most of the time, subterranean termites are going to be building mud tubes somewhere. You will most likely find these mud tubes going up the exterior or interior of your foundation and you may find them along joists and even in the attic sometimes. If you have a slab home, then you may find them going up the outside of the house on the slab and even the side of the house. If you can find the mud tubes, then you can treat them as well. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface. Then, shoot that foam into each side of the mud tube and also apply a little of it on the surface where you removed it. The termites will rebuild the mud tubes and bring the foam back to the colony to spread around to the other termites. Also, if you can find the mud tubes, this is a very good way to determine when the infestation is gone. If you scrape off that 2-inch section of a mud tube, you can see if there are any live termites in the tube. Again, the termites will rebuild the tube and go about their business. Do this every two weeks after you finish all your treatments. Apply the foam to the mud tube every time you do it. At the point you are no longer seeing live termites and they stop rebuilding the mud tube, then your infestation has been eradicated. It typically takes several weeks for any termite treatment to be effective. That is because you are using slow kill products. If you were to kill the termites too quickly, then they would not have a chance to bring the poison back to the colony and share it with the other termites. If you don't kill off the entire colony, you will not end the infestation. Therefore, you must kill off subterranean termites very slowly. So, I would give this at least 12 weeks before I would decide that something went wrong, and the process didn't work. Hiring a professional to trench your house is pretty much going to take about the same amount of time to kill off the colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to apply termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_7&amp=&crid=39LQH28BN6B0V&amp=&sprefix=termite FiPro: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol Termidor Foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html

[@PaulB-iw4wg]

@Guy's Pest Solutions Guy, thank you for sharing your experience with all of us. Thank you for your response, it's very much appreciated! You're the best!!

[@PaulB-iw4wg]

Thanks again

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@PaulB-iw4wg You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

[@urdivine]

Does my plan sound like it would work? Instead of digging a trench, use a 6" x 6" cultivator and cultivate a 6" x 6" area, however long. Then, over the loose dirt, pour the prepared termiticide. No need to dig out the dirt. No need to spray the fill in dirt and shovel it back in. I suspect that there will be less termiticide absorbed below the 6 in. level, so maybe pour 5 gal. instead of 4. I cannot imagine how this would not work. Thank you, You're doing a great service to mankind.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I have never tried doing that, but it is possible that you plan will work. I think the success of it will depend upon how porous or dense the soil is and the species in question. You know, if you loosen up the dirt with a cultivator, it may not be so hard to just trench it. You can certainly give it a try if you like. I love experimentation, but keep in mind that the termites are busy eating your house, so there is some element of risk. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@charlesdelile8547]

Thank you sir great Video

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@ouchydoom]

I'm sorry if you have already answered these types of questions. We have discovered a large amount of termite mud tubes coming from behind the drywall of our garage. On the other side of that wall is our bathroom and we have found a small portion of the baseboard of the bathroom to be hollowed out with mudtubes, but no signs of damage elsewhere in the bathroom. There were also some other empty, isolated mudtubes on some cardboard boxes on the opposite wall of the garage, but nothing attached to the wall studs. We have checked our basement all the way around and haven't seen any other activity elsewhere in the house. We have had bait stations professionally installed since October of last year after finding some termites on some old wood outside. We have been told they are subterranean termites. We just had the pest control company back to look at this new activity, and they just added a bait station outside and placed two indoor bait stations in the garage and bathroom. All that said, do you think these bait stations are going to be enough to clear the current infestation? Or should we opt to trench around the house? Any other advice you could give us based on the above information?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I have a video that talks about trenching vs bait stations. I will give you the link to it. I am not a big fan of using bait stations for an active infestation because they can take up to 2 years to work and sometimes they don't work at all. That is because the bait does not kill any termites. They use an insect growth regulator that simply prevents the termites from breeding. Termite workers can live up to 2 years. All of this is assuming that they actually find the bait. Sometimes they miss the bait entirely, which may have happened in your case. Pest control companies like it because it is fast and easy to do and they can charge big money for it. Then they can rip you off with an annual maintenance fee every year for the rest of your life. Trenching is way more effective and will kill off the entire colony in under 12 weeks. It only costs about $100 to do yourself and it is almost a sure thing if you do it correctly. So, my advice is to trench the house yourself and fire the pest control company as soon as the contract period ends. The trenching job will last 5 to 10 years, with 7 years being the average. It all depends on soil conditions and things like that. You do not need to dig the trench all at the same time. You can literally do 10 feet a day after work. I helped a single mom in NJ that did it herself with her two teenage daughters. They just did about 10 feet after work and school every day until it was finished. They were 100% successful. It's really not that hard and you can take your time with it. I'm turning 74 this month and I'm still doing this sort of thing. Of course, my wife keeps reminding me that my brain and my body may not be on the same page when it comes to the sorts of work that I should still be doing, but it's not bad if I take my time. Start on the wall that is closest to the infestation and then work your way around the rest of the house. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Trenching vs bait stations video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oKOzo6Vrecl1lck

[@ouchydoom]

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for this comprehensive answer. It has been a nightmare trying to find consistent information on how to treat them when they have already entered the house, even on youtube. I brought up trenching to our pest control company and they brushed it off. I do get the sense they are stringing us along. They never mentioned how long the bait stations would take to eradicate the colony. I will take your advice and check out the video you mentioned. Thanks again!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@ouchydoom You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. If you read the contract for the baiting system you have, you will most likely find language in it that will tell you that it can take a long time for baiting to work. Some contracts will even tell you that it may not work at all. Even though the company will usually not explain this to you, is it almost always stated in the contract. If you have a damage warranty in the contract, it will most likely not cover previous damage. Most of the time, they will tell you that the damage you are seeing was caused before the baiting system was installed, so they don't pay. You can't even take them to court over it because the contract almost certainly contains an arbitration clause. I am planning to make a video on termite bonds and warranties sometime this year. A lot of people pay an annual fee so that they can be protected against termite damage, but it's a total waste of money. I am very happy that you now understand the truth. Be well my friend.

[@perrylongjr7478]

Great video, learned a lot my friend.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@rpdx3]

Thanks! PS… your video on carpenter ants was super helpful! I think I’m finally making some headway eliminating those pesky critters.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words and for the tip. Both are very much appreciated. Please let me know if you have any questions. Be well my friend.

[@preetgup7444]

Thank you very much for sharing such a great knowledge with us.I need more help from you. I have Bayer (termiticide). Is it repellent or non repellent. I have mud tubes going upward from the wooden frame of my door. There is a concrete floor all around my house, no soil, but have a number of potted plants. Should I pour Bayer solution in the mud tube, please suggest me

[@GuysPestSolutions]

If you have visible mud tubes, then you do have a subterranean termite infestation. If I understand you correctly, you have concrete surrounding the house. This is a special situation, that may need to be treated differently. The only way I can tell exactly what you need to do is if I see photographs of all sides of the house. I need to see everything from the sides of the house to the property lines. I also need to see photos of the front of the house to the street. After I see the photos, I can tell you your treatment options. Sometimes the termite granules will work in these cases, but sometimes they will not. Every situation is different. Please send the photos to [e-mail]. Please put "Case Number 101820241" in the subject line and let me know where you live. Location matters because different areas of the country have different species of termites. The granules do not work for all of them. Please allow a couple of days for me to get back to you because I am still cleaning up from hurricane Milton. I was in the direct path of the hurricane, and it made quite a mess here. Don't worry. I promise that I will get back to you. Be well Preet.

[@JohnSmith-jf3pj]

I'm doing drywood and subs treatment at my house right now and I suspected that the work was not done properly or thouroughly. Your post is very helpful. It's so hard to find a trusworthy termite company. I wish I could hire you to do my house.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I am so sorry to hear that you're having a problem finding a reliable pest control company. I've been hearing more and more stories lately of pest control companies that are, well, not competent. I find that incredibly saddening because these folks are giving the industry a really bad name. I don't know how some of these people managed to get a license. Anyway, most of the time, you are better off simply doing your own pest control. Treating for subterranean termites is super easy and you don't usually need to even trench. I have found that, about 95% of the time, I can totally eliminate a subterranean termite infestation simply by using termiticide granules and it only costs about $50 to do an entire home. If you feel like the pest control company you hired did not do the job correctly, then you may want to take out an insurance policy by applying these granules around your home. I will provide you with a link to my video on how to do it and also a link on the correct product that you need to purchase. You need to be careful when purchasing this product because there are two versions of it and one of those versions does not work. Home Depot and Lowe's no longer sell the correct version and so I am now recommending that you order it from Amazon. Unfortunately, drywood termites are quite different than subterranean termites and this is one of those times when you cannot really treat it yourself. That is because the only way to totally eliminate a drywood termite infestation is to tent the entire house and fumigate. Of course, the problem with fumigation is that the gas they use offers no residual action. That means you can get re infested with drywood termites the moment the tent comes down. Therefore, to prevent this from happening, you must treat the exterior of your home every three months with a pesticide. I have a video on how to do that and I will place a link below. Unfortunately, you cannot hire a pest control company to do this for you. That is because almost no pest control companies will do this type of treatment. Don't worry though, the treatment is super easy to do and it is perfectly safe. I also have a video that outlines all of your treatment options for drywood termites. This video will go over all your possible options to treat the problem, but I have to tell you that the bottom line is that the only sure way is fumigation. So, if you have a company that is busy spot treating for your drywood termites, then I have to tell you that it's kind of a waste of money. There are a lot of pest control companies that will do these spot treatments, but the problem is finding all the galleries. Even the best and most skilled pest controllers are most likely going to miss galleries. All of this is explained in the treatment options video. I feel bad about giving you more videos to watch, but knowledge is power. The more you know about these things, then the more money you are going to save and the more effective you are going to be at resolving these issues. Learning about this stuff is going to keep you from getting ripped off and it is going to save you thousands of dollars in the end. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. How to treat your house with termite granules video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY BioAdvanced Termite Killer 700350A granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k0_1_6&amp&crid=1BU67Q3WPAZMS&amp&sprefix=bioadv Drywood termite prevention video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJaxpKCMl89rhsU Drywood termite treatment options video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3WZf4eLZptgjrM

[@JohnSmith-jf3pj]

@@GuysPestSolutions Will watch and learn and do what I can myself. Very much appreciated. Thank you!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@JohnSmith-jf3pj You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

[@dayslayer7871]

Hi Guy! Excellent info from a pro - Love it. When using the trench method, how often do you do this? In another video you made before this one (treating for general pests), you kind of suggested that the trench method is annual. If you mentioned the answer in your video, sorry for the hassle. Thanks very much! I just discovered your videos today and it’s all I’ve been listening to and partially watching all day! Your info is pure gold! Now I just gotta implement it. Can’t wait!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Trenching lasts 5 to 10 years, but it should only be done if you have an active infestation of subterranean termites. When you use Taurus SC as a surface spray, it only lasts about 90 days. So, it lasts a lot longer when you bury it. Please let me know where you live and if you have an active infestation. Location matters because different places have different species. I can then tell you the best way to go about treating. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@dayslayer7871]

@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy. Great info - thank you so much! I reside in Fayetteville, NC, an area notorious for termites and its sandy soil. Thankfully, I don't have an active termite infestation. Also, I haven't observed any termites in my lawn-though I'm not sure I'd recognize one if I saw it! My home, constructed on a concrete slab in 2017, is located in a neighborhood where I never see pest control vehicles. This leads me to believe that termite and general pest problems might not be prevalent among my neighbors. However, the fear of termites looms large here as many worry about the severe structural damages they can cause, potentially leading to costly repairs. Your videos have been enlightening. They suggest that while termite infestations should be taken seriously and treated promptly, they are manageable and not as catastrophic as I previously feared. And seeing you implement inexpensive preventative measures is reassuring! I appreciate your expertise and look forward to your suggestions on how to protect my home against termites.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

​@@dayslayer7871 If you have sandy soil, the termite granules applied every year should do the trick. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider just using monitoring stations. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. Since you do not have an active infestation, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. You can also purchase commercial ones for $15 each. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&amp=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&amp=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY Video on how to make monitoring stations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/narIY2qXja2Fqbs Commercial monitoring stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor

[@qualitysure]

Excellent video!!!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@btulsa8983]

Thanks! I enjoyed your easy to undetstand guidance. The videoes are very appreciated.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much. That was so kind of you. I will use that money toward buying more equipment and making more videos. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@jamesaucoin131]

Hi, I watched your educational video after I saw the termites. Unfortunately, I cleaned up and tore all the infested wood out. They started under my shower where the drain goes through the slab. They had mud tubes going up the outside of my shower into my sheetrock. I was going to call terminex, but after watching the video, I think I will take your advice first. Thanks so much for the informative video.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Please tell me where you live. Location matters. I want to make sure that you are not dealing with an aggressive species that may require more than just trenching. Most of the time you are not, but I would be a terrible pest controller if I didn't check. A lot of slab homes are built in the south, like Florida, which is Formosan termite territory. That species is found in southern coastal states, California, and Hawaii. Please let me know and I will tell you if this is a concern. Be well my friend.

[@jamesaucoin131]

@@GuysPestSolutions South Louisiana.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Okay. That is NOT what I wanted to hear, but I did suspect that this was the case. Most slab homes are in areas where Formosan termites exist. You happen to live in the Formosan termite capital of the world. So, you definitely need to check to make sure that you are not dealing with these guys. Please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Don't worry. It's not that hard to do. I will give you a link to the video. Please get back to me if these are Formosan Termites because these guys are bad. Really bad. They are often called super termites because of how fast they eat and unlike other species that cannot colonize in your home, these guys can. So, you need to take extra steps with Formosan termites. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk

[@jamesaucoin131]

Ok Guy, I had to work late, so I didn't get a chance to inspect the mud tubes to inspect the termites, but my exterminator came out and talked to my wife and told her that it was formosan termites. He wants to drill holes around my shower and pump poison around the shower...I'm worried about him hitting a water line. I'm no expert, but I think whatever he is doing isn't working because this is the 4th time in 5 years that he has been here. They just keep moving over to the next room. He claims that that is different colonies. That's why I want to treat the whole house. What do you think I should do? Thank you for all the info, I really value your opinion.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@jamesaucoin131 What you are describing is NOT the right way to treat Formosan termites. It may help, but you are correct that he may drill into the pipes. Also, this treatment alone will probably not get it done. Formosan termite colonies are very large and hard to take out. Please watch my video on how to treat Formosan termites and get back to me with any questions you may have. I will give you the link. Video on how to treat Formosan termites: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnXXeIiNrbKliNk

[@OOICU812]

Thank you, sir! Subbed.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you for subscribing. Greatly appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@johnfitzpatrick3416]

Guy, after trenching around my house could I lay 🤔1/2-3/4” PVC pipe in the trench with holes drilled in it then cover over. The thought being to pour termite control agent into pvc access point at intervals around my foundation? That way I could just add liquid that would flow around foundation with out digging.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I have often thought about that very thing. It is done in some other countries, like Australia, but they do it under pressure. The problem is that you will probably be applying a lot of pesticide to get it to travel everywhere it needs to be. I'm thinking you can do it in short sections, with pipes coming up from the ground at like 10 foot intervals. So, the potential is there, but I have not worked out the details yet. Stand by. I may do a video on it after I get it all figured out and tested. I do like the way you think. Be well my friend.

[@lenbloom338]

We are building a home in Northeast Georgia and we are doing the termite mitigation ourselves. We bought Taurus SC for the trench and Borate for the framing. We started to treat the ground under the slab and then I read the fine print in the packaging that said if we are using Borate for the framing that the under slab treatment is optional. We were wondering just how much difference that under slab treatment would make to begin with and now we decided not to finish that aspect of the project and just do the trenching and Borate. I really have enjoyed watching your videos and want to thank you for sharing your lifetime of experience with everyone. You are a fantastic resource sir!!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. In your case, I recommend treating all the wood, from the top of the roof to the foundation, with Bora-Care. It's the only product worth using. Mix it one to one with water and not one to five. You can use cold water. It works just fine. It's expensive, but it penetrates almost all the way through the wood, while the other products only coat the surface of the wood. This will render the entire house 100% termite proof forever. It will also prevent other wood destroying pests as well. If you treat all the wood, inside and out, then no other termite treatment will be necessary ever. Some people will tell you to just treat a few feet up from the foundation, but doing that will not prevent other wood destroying pests, such as carpenter ants and carpenter bees. Also, termites can find their way further up the building by constructing mud tubes to higher elevations in the building. This is why you must treat all the wood in the entire structure. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Bora-Care: www.solutionsstores.com/boracare Bora-Care video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJ7VkJR7pMmsnsk

[@lenbloom338]

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you very much for your response. Regarding the mix ratio, I have been finding ratios from 1:1 to 5:1 (as I'm sure you are well aware) and I am very confused on scenarios where you would use a ratio other than 1:1. Under what circumstances would you use a 5:1 ratio?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

All I can tell you is that in my personal opinion you always want to go with 1 to 1. The manufacturer claims that 1 to 5 will work to prevent termites, but I don't trust it. After the house is completed, it's too late to find out that 1 to 5 didn't work. You can't go back and redo it because the shingles are on the roof, the siding is up, the drywall is installed, and so forth. So, you want to get it right the first time. Let's say it takes 20 gallons of finished product to do the entire house and a gallon costs about $80. At 1 to 5 it will take 4 gallons to make 20 gallons of finished product or about $320. If you mix it 1 to 1 you will need 10 gallons to make 20 gallons of finished product or about $800. The difference comes to $480. So, on a brand-new home, are you going to skimp $480, and risk that it doesn't work? One termite treatment by a pro will probably cost 3 times that much. Next to the cost of building the house, $480 is a grain of sand on the beach. Some people have car payments that are more than that. Heck, that's less than you will spend to buy a water heater. So, do you want to spend your days wondering if the treatment is going to work or do you want to sleep soundly at night knowing for sure that your house is fully protected? In my view, if you need to cut costs somewhere, then spend $1000 on a new refrigerator instead of $1500. You can always upgrade the refrigerator later on. After the house is finished you cannot upgrade the Bora-Care treatment. Anyway, that's the way it seems to me. I have used Bora-Care many times and I always go 1 to 1. Again though, that is just my personal opinion and I have no studies to back it up. I just don't like taking chances. I guess gambling isn't in my nature when it comes to pest control. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@lenbloom338]

@@GuysPestSolutions Point well taken Gus! I am not a gambler in any regard, not just pest control. I will put my big boy pants on and open up my wallet and do it right. I will have you to thank for that and really appreciate all that you do. Thank you again sir! Do you have an easy way to calculate how much I will need to cover all of the linear lumber as well as all of the sheeting on the roof?

[@lenbloom338]

Sorry for the typo, Guy not Gus!!

[@RenaissanceMan78]

Excellent information, thank you for taking the time to make this and your other videos.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words and the tip. Both are very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@stevenle1760]

Thanks for another great video! 👍

[@GuysPestSolutions]

That is so kind of you to say. Thanks for watching. I know you are a fan and that is so humbling and so much appreciated. You are a super person. Be well Steven.

[@JayLee-gb8ob]

Thank you so much for your videos. For trenching... we have a split colonial home built in the 60s on a sloped hill. This means the basement is accessible from the back yard, but not from the front yard because about 3/4 of it is underground in the front yard. How would you recommend trenching in this case? Would you trench the front yard from wherever grade is at the front of the yard (which would be 3/4 up from the concrete slab foundation because it's going to be the basement floor), or would you really dig all the way to the foundation's slab layer to get the 6inx6in trench? The second question is... we have gravel as well as grass. Would trenching include the gravel or only after the gravel is completely dug up, and only from the soil under the gravel down would the 6" deep trench count? Thank you again so much for your help. We are a modest home of a soon-to-retire veteran, in middle of inflation and during a time when the cost of living is extremely high.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for your service. I'm so sorry that you are going through this situation. The first thing you need to do is to make sure that you are doing the correct treatment for the species you have. All species of subterranean termites can be treated effectively with trenching, but some species may require additional treatments inside as well. Also, there are species that are not subterranean at all, so trenching does not work for them. Therefore, it is a good idea to identify the species before you begin treatment. I have a video on how to do that and I will give you a link below. Assuming that these are subterranean termites, then you would only need to trench 6 inches wide and 6 inches deep around the entire building. It does not matter how the building was constructed. You would dig the trench exactly the same. If you have gravel around part of the house, then you would need to remove that gravel prior to trenching. Oftentimes, you can simply pull it back with a rake. Termites aside, I hope you don't mind just a little advice from somebody who has been around for many years and who has been retired for a long time. I have seen this inflation movie before and I can tell you that, regardless of what either of the presidential candidates tell you, prices are not really going to come down much, if at all. Inflation does not work that way. Sometimes gas prices can fluctuate up and down a bit, but as a general rule they will be trending up. I can remember when gasoline cost about 25 cents a gallon. Keep in mind that our country was pretty much shut down during covid and this resulted in high inflation for a short period of time. This is not the first time it has happened, and it probably will not be the last time either. In any case, do not expect the prices to go down. The only good news is that the inflation crisis is now over. The ideal inflation rate that is recommended by the Fed is about 2%. Right now the inflation rate is 2.4%, so we are almost exactly where we need to be. So, while it seems like prices are high, and they are, the truth is that it's over now. The prices are no longer going up at that insane rate. So, when you plan for your retirement, it is important to understand that you need to plan for the prices to remain stable for some period of time. Do not count on them going down. I don't care if you elect God as president, the prices are not going back down. Therefore, you should not retire until you can afford to live with the prices where they are now, understanding that there's going to still be some inflation going forward. This is simply the way the economy works. It is the reason why I can no longer buy gas for 25 cents a gallon. The truth is that inflation is actually a good thing because that drives the economy forward. Without inflation you cannot have growth. The key is to try to keep the inflation rate at around 2%. So, right now it is about as good as it ever gets. Do not plan your retirement based on promises that nobody can keep. The reality is that the prices you see right now are the prices you are going to live with for some period of time, and hopefully they will just gradually increase like they are supposed to, regardless of who gets elected. The truth is that presidents have very little to do with inflation. They get the credit and the blame, but inflation is mostly a consequence of the economy. We blame presidents for everything, but inflation is driven mostly by things like supply and demand and external factors like what is going on in other countries. It is also driven by things like strikes. When rail workers go out on strike, prices are going up. When dock workers strike, prices are going to go up. When factories close around the world because of covid, prices are going to go up. When OPEC raises the price of oil, prices are going to go up. When hurricanes take out refineries in the south, prices are going to go up. Presidents do not control interest rates either. The Fed does that, and they are not controlled by the President or Congress. They make those decisions independently and they sometimes get it wrong. Inflation is a complicated and fickled mistress that is controlled by nobody. The Fed can control interest rates, but that can only do so much. There is no political solution for inflation. So, plan wisely for your retirement. I know far too many people who retired before they had sufficient funds to live a decent life after retirement. I also recommend that you think about getting a side hustle after you retire. It never hurts to have a little extra income. I hope you don't mind a little non pest control advice. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk

[@serenadevon]

Hello Guy, I trench around my house although I have a spot where there's a deep slope. How would I treat an area like that? Any suggestions are welcome! Thank you!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Just dig the trench in 2 foot sections. Be sure to treat the backfill dirt. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@bryanutility9609]

Guy, I did the trenching method you described and we chatted about it thanks. Now I’m wondering, why “trench”? Why does there need to be a 6” trench when the fluid just drains down into the soil within 3 minutes? It was very fast. It didn’t pool for more than 3 minutes. Could I just dig enough to control the flow and pour in the chem? The digging part takes all day.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

That is the reason why I recommend treating the back fill dirt. The Taurus SC bonds with the soil, so if you treat all the back fill dirt, then you have a solid barrier that the termites cannot avoid. As long as you have the back fill dirt treated, then it is a good thing if the Taurus SC drains down into the ground. That will give you even deeper protection. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@nolidcreations]

Thank you so much for sharing this information. No active termites has been found in my home, but whlle moving an item in one of my rooms, I saw a dead termite. Also I recently did some renovating and I could tell the wood that was replaced had termite damage. I guess my question is.. is it wise for me to trench around the house if there are no active termites, but if there has been before?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. We have some stuff to unpack here, so let me start by saying that you seldom see termites, dead or alive. That is because they will die if they are exposed to the air, so they typically stay inside the wood or inside mud tubes that they build. It would be someone unusual to find one outside of the wood, even if it's dead. Therefore, the first thing you need to do is it make sure that this was a termite and not something much different, such as a carpenter ant. You probably disposed of the specimen already, but the next time you see something like that take a look to see how many body parts it has. If it appears to have only two body segments, then it may well be a termite. However, if it appears to have three body segments, then it is probably something like an ant. Also, termites are typically a cream color, unless they are swarmers. Wood can be damaged for other reasons besides termites. For example, you could be looking at dry rot, or perhaps damage from something like carpenter ants. Typically, wood destroying pests eat with the grain of the wood, but dry rot will destroy the entire structure of the wood. If you have confirmed that these are actually termites, but you are not seeing any activity, then it is possible that one of your neighbors killed them for you. Most species of subterranean termites do not colonize in your home. They only colonize underground, and they typically attack more than one food source at a time. If the colony attacked your neighbor's home and they had it treated, then that treatment probably took out the entire colony, so your home will no longer be infested. Nevertheless, sometimes termites can attack one part of the house, and for reasons known only to them, they may decide to abandon that food source in favor of another one in a different part of your house. Therefore, if you know that you are looking at termite damage, yet you are not seeing termites, red flags do need to go up. You would be wise to do an inspection of the rest of the house to see if there's any activity in other areas. Look for mud tubes that are coming up from the ground around the entire perimeter of the house. If you have a crawl space, go under there and look for mud tubes as well. They could be coming up from the ground, or they could be running along the floor joist as well. You should also check the attic as well because some species will travel into the attic before they start to eat. It would also be wise to look around the house to see if you can find any mud along the baseboards or damage. Check all the walls and look for tiny holes that may be no larger than 1/8 of an inch wide, and they may be filled in with mud. While you are checking the walls, also look for sagging or discolored paint. You should also check the ceiling as well. If you do not see anything like this, then you are probably okay. Still, it wouldn't hurt to do a preventive treatment around the house. The easiest way to do this is to use termite granules. For the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider monitoring stations. Trenching will work too, but it's a lot more work. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you confirm that you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&amp=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&amp=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY Video on how to make monitoring stations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/narIY2qXja2Fqbs

[@nolidcreations]

Thank you so very much for providing this information. It's very insightful and extremely helpful... I appreciate you, big time 🙏🏾😊💯

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@nolidcreations You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@CraigRider-h8r]

Thanks for the video. Very informative.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@bigfranksworld]

A very good explanation, thank you. I have a mobile home in Northern California. I have never delt with termites before. We noticed a couple of mud tubes coming from the ceiling, behind a valance in the cabinets. Sure enough, there are subterranean termites there. it appears they have been eating away the strip style ceiling material (material like pressed cardboard like you would see in a commercial dropped ceiling) from the back side. I think there is just the ceiling material, and probably batting insulation, then the metal roof. I'm sure they have gotten into the wood ceiling joists by now. I was going to pull that ceiling down and spot spray with Taurus SC, then re-sheetrock. But after watching this video, I may be better to spray the foam up between the joists, trench and apply Taurus SC, then monitor the activity. I would rather not spray Taurus SC inside my kitchen, even with taking everything out of it if possible. I will also go under the mobile and see if there are mud tubes and treat those areas. The plan is to replace the ceiling in that area anyway, but if I can get rid of the termites without pulling all of the ceiling don, it would save lots of additional work. Would this work okay, and if you have a better solution, please let me know. I subscribed so I can keep up with your good work. Thank you. On edit: Now after watching a few more videos, I'm confused. I though only subterranean termites made mud tubes. Now I see that Formosan termites also make mud tubes. Now I have to get some of them and see if i can tell which ones I have for sure. Dang...

[@GuysPestSolutions]

If you live in Northern California, then you do have Formosan termites there. These guys are subterranean, but they also have the ability to colonize in your house. They are the only species of subterranean termites that have this ability. Also, Formosan termites are very destructive. Other species of subterranean termites are very slow eaters, and it takes them a long time to do any significant damage. That is not the case with Formosan termites. These guys are very fast eaters and can do a lot of damage very quickly. They are known as "super termites" because of their ability to do so much damage in a very short period of time. Therefore, I recommend that you try to obtain a specimen that has a red head. If you can acquire one of these, then I can identify the species for you. The other option is to call a pest control company and ask for a free inspection. When they arrive, tell them you would like to know the specific species and exactly how they plan to treat for it. I do not recommend that you sign anything. Just thank them for their time and let them know that you are going to get several estimates. If you can tell me the species or you can get me a photo of a termite that has a redhead, then I can give you and effective treatment plan. I would not be surprised if these turn out to be Formosan termites. Most species of subterranean termites start eating low in the building and you normally see them on the lower part of the walls or in the floors. With Formosan termites it is fairly common to see them build mud tubes up to the roof and then start eating in the attic and ceiling areas. The fact that you are seeing mud tubes coming from the ceiling is very concerning. While it is possible for other species of subterranean termites to attack this way, it is far more likely that these are Formosan termites. Due to the aggressive nature of this species, I would urge you to either get that photo of a termite or get the building inspected without delay. Treating Formosan termites is somewhat different than treating any other species of subterranean termites. However, in all cases, you do need to trench. If you are living in a trailer, that is on piers, then you need to trench around each pier. If these are a species other than Formosan termites, then that is all the treatment that is required. You can spot treat the damaged area with a fipronil foam, but it's not absolutely necessary. However, if these are Formosan termites, then you also need to look for "cartons" that may be located in the walls or even the ceiling. We can talk more about that after the species is identified. For now though, it wouldn't hurt to begin trenching. You can obtain the Taurus SC and a fipronil foam from domyown.com. I will place links below. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html Termidor foam: www.domyown.com/termidor-foam-p-3528.html

[@bigfranksworld]

@@GuysPestSolutions I pulled down part of a mud tube last night and looked at them with a magnifying glass. The solder didn't seem to have crossed mandibles and the head was rectangle shaped. When I poked at it, it was aggressive though. I can find another solder and send a good pic to you. What is the best place to send it? I will do that today when I get home from work. Thanks for your help so far

[@bigfranksworld]

@@GuysPestSolutions I can get pics to you. What email should I sent them to?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@bigfranksworld You can send the photos to [e-mail]. It sounds like you may have gotten lucky and all you need to do is trench around the piers. In addition to trenching, you can also spot treat to give the trenching a bit of a boost. This is not necessary, but it helps. Just scrape off about a 2-inch section of each mud tube down to the bare surface and shoot a fipronil foam into the tube in both directions. Then shoot some of the foam on that 2-inch bare spot as well. The termites will most likely rebuild the mud tube and they will carry the fipronil back to the colony and share it with the other termites. This is exactly how the trenching works. I will give you a link to the foam. Treating termites is a slow process. You do not want to kill them too quickly or they will not have time to bring the poison back to the colony. Therefore, all these sorts of treatments take between 2 to 12 weeks to work. This is not a problem though because subterranean termites are slow eaters and will do very little damage in this relatively short period of time. You can determine when the infestation is gone by using the mud tubes. Again, scrape off about a 2-inch section of a mud tube, every two weeks, and see if there's any activity inside the tube. If there is, then treat the tube with the fipronil foam again and let the termites rebuild the tube. Then check again in another two weeks. When you no longer see any activity in any of the mud tubes and the termites are no longer rebuilding them, then the infestation is gone. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Fipronil foam: www.solutionsstores.com/fipro-foaming-aerosol

[@Jo-bk6vy]

I found a narrow pile of dirt(almost looking like tube) on bedroom carpet. When i touched it, it was very soft and just crumbled away. I opened the carpet and found dirt under it. Pushing the dirt away, there was a pin hole. There is no crack around, but a pin hole. there was no bug i could see. It is 7 feet inside of outer wall with two gutters, one in each corner. I recently found that the gutters were totally blocked and with the heavy rains we've been having in Texas, water was pouring right out. The gutters are now fixed. I had two exterminators come by. One said that he will drill hole into the cement foundation to treat as well as trenching around the house for termite. The other exterminator said that he would rather not drill a hole into foundation since there is no crack. He will do trenching for termite since I do have termite on the other side of the house( I had water leak into a corner of house, which i was not aware, and allowed termite to attack the wall- found frass right above molding and treated with foam). They both said that they will use Termidor he, not sc. What is your thought on the drilling? What is your thought on using Termidor he vsTermidor sc or Taurus sc?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

There is a lot to unpack here. Texas is a big place and species varies depending upon where in the state you live. I need to know where you live, and I need to know more about the frass. Was the frass kind of like mud and you needed to scrape it off or was it more like very tiny pellets that can be easily moved with your finger? If it is like tiny pellets that can be easily moved with your finger, then most likely neither of the treatments offered will work. If it's more like mud, then trenching would be the way to go, but you still need to know the species because all of Texas has Formosan termites, and they often require interior treatment. I would also like to know more about the floor where the hole is. Is that a wood construction floor or is it a concrete slab? You need to be careful before hiring a pest controller, especially if you are getting an estimate from a national company. They often send out salespeople who have no field experience at all. Oftentimes they get the species wrong or they don't understand the difference between different species of subterranean termites. So, I recommend that we do just a bit more investigating before deciding on a treatment plan. I would be happy to assist you with this and my service is always free. Treating the wrong way will waste money and not get the job done. So, it's important to get it right the first time. Here's the thing though, I am on vacation, and I only get internet some of the time. I will be back after June 11, and I will be able to fully walk you through everything after I'm home. I think it would be worth your while to wait for me because it's not that long. So, please answer my questions and I will get back to you just as soon as I can. Meanwhile, please try to relax. I promise that it's going to be okay. Be well my friend.

[@Jo-bk6vy]

@@GuysPestSolutions Thank you so much for your help. To answer your question, I live in East Texas. The frass I mentioned may have been wrong terminology. The dirt was on the wall... so.. perhaps.. I should say that a tube was beginning to form. It was more like pallets, like coffee grinds but mixed with light and dark color. I swiped and it all fell away( not like fresh dirt). The one on the floor in my bedroom under carpet was just like pile of dark dirt. I do have concrete slab. Since i disturbed the pin hole, I do not see any dirt building back up. On top of all this, I see one or two dead carpenter ants inside every other day. I saw them crawling out in the yard by trees, but i think they are encroaching. Enjoy your trip!!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

​@@Jo-bk6vy I am in a hotel room with a very slow internet connection. I will be home on June 11 and then I can give you my full attention. Please try to take a photo of the frass and send it to me at [e-mail]. Get as close as you can and try to focus in really well. I will try to identify it for you. If the floor is concrete, then these are probably subterranean termites, but you may also have something else going on as well. Carpenter ants often invade buildings where termites are located. Let's make sure we get this right. When you say east Texas, is that North or South? Please give me a city that you are close to. Thanks. Be well my friend.

[@Jo-bk6vy]

@@GuysPestSolutions Hope you had a safe journey. I sent you an e mail with photo as you requested. Thank you!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@Jo-bk6vy I think I just responded to your email, but I'm not entirely sure. Please let me know if I didn't respond yet and I will look for the email. I answer a lot of emails every day and I'm just getting to June 12. I had them backed up from May 29th. I'm making progress, but the emails keep coming in, so I am about 5 days behind right now. I was 12 days behind at one point, so that's progress. I should be caught up this week sometime. It's crazy. I sit here almost all-day answering emails and KZbin comments. It will be nice to get caught up. Be well my friend.

[@roldyczarmoaes6226]

Best recommendation for dealing with rodents on attic . Proofing having tile roof without having to replace whole roof on sealing open gap between tiles and home build no plywood under tile

[@cpiscitelli1674]

Hi Guy...Thanks for the very informative videos. I love that you take the time to clearly explain your solutions. I have regular quarterly 'normal' pest treatments done around the perimeter of my home. This week, the pest controller told me he noticed some subterranean termite signs outside on my foundation wall. I just had a termite inspector come and as you can imagine, he gave me a bait system quote with 2 years of monthly inspection fees. Now, I had these pests inside my home last year, under one of my toilet commodes. The same termite inspector who just came to inspect the outer perimeter did my interior treatment about 7 months ago. He did a foam treatment and I have not seen any sign inside my home since. The new exterior activity was found on the opposite side of my home from the bathroom where the treatment was done 7 mos ago (FYI). The visible signs outside are about 2-3" trails in 2 locations about 4 ft from each other. I have a very straight & flat home, rectangular if you will. I live in the California desert, so soil is sandy and its very hot (esp. now, with days over 110) . As you recommended, I will try the granules, BioAdvanced 700350A as the first means of attack? Does application time of day, in sun or shade make a difference??? Can you give me any tips on the best application process and/or should I just go directly to the trenching. If trenching, that's another convo with you. Thank you so much , Carol

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I would be happy to assist you with that. I always try the granules first before trenching. Termite granules are an effective and easy solution for subterranean termites, but for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching. The time of day does not matter much to the granules, but it could matter to you. I recommend doing the treatment at first light, before it gets too hot. That will be easier on you and the water will not evaporate as quickly. You need the water to melt the granules and allow the pesticide to leach into the ground, so cooler is probably better. You may want to lightly water them in three or four times. It sounds like you already know that you need the correct granules. They must use imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. Keep in mind that all termite treatments can take up to 12 weeks to work. That is because you need to kill termites slowly in order to take out the entire colony. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&amp=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&amp=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY

[@daryltalley8242]

Carol, im curious, the bait onGuard runs around 699. But was not told about monthly indirection fee to monitor if decide to do in Florida. Curios to that fee? S ok glad found his videos to treat homes either way!

[@cpiscitelli1674]

@@daryltalley8242 I was quoted $400 for initial bait stations with a $30 a month monitoring fee, renewable after one year at $360 with continued monthly monitoring of $30 a month

[@cpiscitelli1674]

@@GuysPestSolutions Hi Guy, So I dug a hole about 4" deep by 6" long....filled with plain water and it took about 6 min for the water to seep down. Is this what you would say is fairly quickly ? Also, once I sprinkle the granules, do I water them or just leave them on the surface? I GET NO rain at all where I live in the desert, so how do the granules sink into the dirt ?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@daryltalley8242 I'm not a big fan of bait stations because the bait does not kill termites. It only stops them from reproducing. A termite worker can live up to 2 years, so this can be a very slow process. Also, there is no guarantee that the termites will find the stations. You can install monitoring stations yourself that will alert you to the presence of termites, so that you can treat them before they get to your house. You can purchase them commercially for about $15 each, or you can make them yourself for about 50 cents each. When the termites find the stations, you can then use a bait station to kill the termites. Again, up to a 2 year process. The good news though is that I have developed a bait station that will kill the termites in about 12 weeks. I will be posting the video on how to make these yourself as early as Sunday and no later than a week from Sunday. The way it works is you install the monitoring stations. When one goes off, you install one of the bait stations that will eliminate the colony in 12 weeks instead of 2 years. If you subscribe, you will be notified when the video posts. I will give you a link to the video on how to make monitoring stations and a link to a place to buy them. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to make termite monitoring stations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/narIY2qXja2Fqbs Where to buy monitoring stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor

[@tedlu008]

Great video! Lots of clay here at houston TX. Probably trenching is needed.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Yes, that is one of the limitations to the granules. If they do not leach into the ground, then they're not going to work. So, if you have soil that is very dense, then you would probably be better off to trench the house. Trenching is a lot more work, but the good news is that it lasts 5 to 10 years and you don't have to do the trenching all in one day. Unless you have an active infestation, you can take your time and just work on it every Saturday if you like until you get around the entire house. I find that trenching goes pretty fast, but I have a tendency to get a bit tired after doing one side of the house. Of course, I am 72 years old, so I'm not the man I used to be. Lol. Good luck with it and thanks for watching my videos. That is very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@rn1358]

Hello Guy, your videos are exactly what I was looking for to do my own subterranean termite treatment, unfortunately I live in California so they won’t ship Termidor or Taurus SC here; do you have any other suggestions?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

California doesn't want you doing this stuff yourself, but you can still get Taurus SC shipped to you. I will give you a link to it. Shipping is free too. Shhhhh. Don't tell anyone. Be well my friend. Taurus SC: www.domyown.com/taurus-sc-termiticide-p-1816.html?sub_id=1817

[@rn1358]

@@GuysPestSolutions Thanks Guy!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

[@wkaiser1956]

Goodmorning! Thanks so much for sharing valuable information, really appreciate it! question: what about treatments for flying termites? We live in the caribbean and have them fly into the house when it rains ...thanks for getting back to me whenever y can find a minute, Wilhelm Kaiser

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I am not too familiar with termites in the Caribbean, but I can tell you that all termites that fly are swarmers. They are the kings and queens that are coming out of an existing colony and looking to start a new colony. You didn't say where in the Caribbean you live. I'm guessing that different locations may have different species, but it is a safe bet that you have both drywood termites and subterranean termites. I think some places in the Caribbean even call drywood termites "Caribbean termites." I'm pretty sure you have conehead termites as well. Anyway, if they are subterranean termites, then they only colonize in the ground, so those swarmers are trying to find a nice, soft spot of ground where they can dig in and start a colony. That could be right next to your house, and they may use your house as a food supply. If they are drywood termites, then they will fly directly into your house and find their way into the wood via cracks and crevices around windows, doors, the eaves, and so forth. So, you cannot treat the swarmers. You need to treat the colonies that are created by the swarmers. If you are seeing swarmers, then there is either a colony close by or already inside your house. In either case, you should get an inspection done by a qualified pest control company or you should inspect yourself. Just look for mud tubes around the house going from the ground up. They may also be in the crawl space or attic. If you see mud tubes, then you have subterranean termites. Also look for frass on the inside of the house, on the floor around the walls, particularly under windows. Frass looks a little like sawdust or small pellets. If you see frass, then you have drywood termites. After you have determined that you do have an infestation, then get back to me and I will help you figure out how to handle it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@rock00019]

Thankyou for taking time to make such a educational video. I have watched several other videos before and already dug the trenches around my house perimeter. The only concern I have is not having experience. But this video has cleared my last questions and gave me confidence to do it right. One Question I have it for you is my patio has already drill marks it’s been drilled before for the treatment as it’s 25 years old house (I just bought it a year ago) so can I just drill those holes again for the treatment and seal it back again ?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Unfortunately, you cannot use the previous holes that were drilled in the concrete. To treat a concrete patio like that you need special injection equipment because the treatment is done under pressure. You can't just drill the holes and pour in some Taurus SC. So, just trench around the patio and you will be fine. The most important thing is to treat the backfill dirt well. Make sure you get it nice and wet, like I show in the video. Please also watch my video on how to identify termite species. Some states have Formosan termites that are very aggressive and may require an additional inside treatment. There is a map in that video that will show you where Formosan termites are a problem. Please let me know if you live in the red or orange areas on the map and I will guide you further. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk

[@allanmccullough8550]

My first job out of high school was Pro Trench Digger.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

That's what I call a tough row to hoe. No pun intended. That's a hard way to earn a living. I'm happy to hear that you went on to better things. Be well my friend.

[@allanmccullough8550]

@@GuysPestSolutions I greatly appreciate the info you give. I worked for a company building swimming pools in the early 70's and once the hole was dug the rest was all manual.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@allanmccullough8550 You sound like a hard worker. I hope life is a bit easier for you these days. Be well my friend.

[@directsound]

Hi Guy, just moved to Florida and have a paver patio and driveway, can I just pour the Chem straight on the area by the house without trenching around? Also I'm on a well do you think its a hazard? Thanks Mikey Mike

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You cannot simply pour Taurus SC on the ground or pavers. It doesn't work that way. This product is for trenching only when treating subterranean termites. If you want a product that can be applied to the top of the ground, then try termite granules. Keep in mind that the granules do not work for drywood termites, Formosan termites, or Asian termites. Let me know if you are dealing with one of those species and I will guide you further. If you do not know the species, please watch my video on how to identify termite species. Also, for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should consider trenching, if you have an active infestation. If it turns out that you need to trench, then please watch my video on how to do that correctly. Trenching is a lot more work, but it only costs about $100 to do an average size home, and it lasts 5 to 10 years. Most people can trench an entire house in one day, but you can take up to a month to get it done, and you can literally do just 10 feet at a time. Trenching does not work for drywood termites. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you do not have an active infestation already, you may want to also consider using monitoring stations around your home. I use both the granules and the monitoring stations. I will give you a link to my video on how to make them for under 50 cents each. I put them around my entire house for less than $25. You can also purchase them for about $10 to $15 each. I will give you the link to purchase them. The way they work is there is a dot on the top of the station. When the dot disappears, you have termites. The homemade stations can go off accidentally, so always pull the station out of the ground if it goes off and check it to make sure that there are actually termites and not a malfunction. If there are termites, then immediately put the station back where it was in the ground. If the station malfunctioned, then simply replace it with a new one. If a station has termites, then you would treat them by installing a bait station right next to the monitoring station that is active. I have a video on how to make the bait stations as well. Commercial bait stations are not recommended because they work too slowly. The homemade ones work way faster. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&amp=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&amp=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY Video on how to trench for subterranean termites: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fKqainuflJyNbsk Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk Video on how to make monitoring stations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/narIY2qXja2Fqbs Video on how to make bait stations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGGYi2CXiq-Yntk Commercial monitoring stations: www.solutionsstores.com/red-eye-termite-monitor

[@patburton837]

Hi Guy, You have helped me so much so far. I do have another question. How can i trench myself if part of my house has dirt and the other part of my house is concrete. Do you have to wait until there is no rain in the forecast to trench? Thank you so much, Guy. You have been most helpful. Im a little disappointed with the bait stations. How stupid to think they work?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You should trench on a dry day. To answer your question about the concrete, I need to see photos of the side of the house where you have the concrete. You can send photos to [e-mail]. I get a lot of email about termites, so please give me your KZbin name when you send the photos, so that I know who you are. I ran into a few personal problems over the past few days that really slowed me up with answering questions, but I am working feverishly to get caught up. I am behind quite a bit with my e-mail, but I will look at the photos within the next few days and get back to you. I usually receive 50 to 100 questions and emails every day, so it doesn't take much to set me back. I'm putting in a lot of hours to it now, so I should get caught up in a couple of days, if nothing else goes wrong. Be well Pat.

[@patburton837]

Hi Guy, I sent you pictures showing you the dirt and cement areas of my house. Damn, i should have just sent you the cement pictures. I couldn't send them all today. I sent them separately. Pictures too big. Sorry. Again. Thank you for all your help.

[@patburton837]

If you need me to resend just the cement pictures, I will. Sorry about that.

[@ObstacleC]

Thank you for the very informative video I found mud tubes inside my house inside my closet I have a enclosed unit that my radiant heat valves are located and come up through the concrete slab floor. When taking off the cabinet door to inspect the valves there are active subterranean termites I quickly sprayed with pest killer although I know it only killed what was on the surface and not the colony it is best to use the product you recommended for the local treatment? Second question I had an estimate the estimator told me to drill in my concrete patios near the foundation as the chemical does not travel far due to my large patio the chemical would only go about 3 feet in not far enough as it is over a 10' patio and treating the outside of the patio is too far from the foundation. Any thoughts? The patio borders the lawn so trenching my lawn? Maybe an area I will have to avoid treatment on?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

It is never a good idea to treat termites with pesticides that you can get at the big box stores. These are almost always repellent pesticides that will often result in the termites changing location. You may think you killed them, but the truth is that they just moved to another area of your home. You should always treat termites with a non-repellent termiticide. Pest controllers are taught to drill concrete, so they honestly do not understand that you can just go around it with a trench. If you have a patio that is 10 feet wide from the house to the lawn, then you can trench around it. Think about it for a minute. If you put up four walls and a roof on top of that patio, the pest controller would trench around it. They would not attempt to drill holes through your carpeting or other flooring you had in there. Right? So, why can't you trench around it if there is no structure on it? The answer is that it makes no difference. The only time it would matter is if the termite colony was under the patio, and that is almost never the case. My advice is to just follow the instructions in my video and make a continuous trench from the road, along the driveway, around the entire house, and then back along the other side of the driveway to the road again. If you do everything exactly as I explained it in the video, then you will have better protection than the professional will give you, and you will do it for about $100. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@cfig71]

I’m so grateful 😢❤

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Always my pleasure. Be well Charity.

[@aurelienyvesnicoul5055]

Great video and tips on termites treatment DYI project. I don't feel anxious anymore and more confident about it 😂 I am digging around my house and I am considering backfilling with weed stopper cloth and non pourus rocks for furure ease of treatment applications and pest barrier. I seen people doing so online but I am curious about your thoughts. Good idea or waste of time and money? Thank you 🙌

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You should not fill in the trench with rocks. The termites may have a hard time getting through them. If that happens, they may go down and under them, thereby bypassing your treatment. You are better off just filling in the trench as shown in the video and then using termite granules starting 5 years after the trenching is finished. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@marrked646]

Hey Guy, According to the Taurus and Termidor labels, if you have a basement where the footer is more than 4' deep, then you'd dig your trench and drive rebar 4' down. If the footer is about 8' below grade, would I need to go 8' deep and put 24 gallons of solution in the trench per 10 feet of length? The label does say to add 4 gallons of finished solution per 10 ft long trench per 1 ft of depth.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

They are not talking about rebar. They are talking about rodding under pressure. I understand that this is on the label, but the truth is that it makes no sense. Termites do not travel that deep in the ground. I mean, nowhere near that deep. They only travel a couple of inches below the surface. When they go through the six inch barrier, they will go up or down. Usually up. No matter the direction though, because they have already gone through the barrier. So, it's lights out for them. No need to rod down that deep. I never saw a pest controller ever do that. Not once. They just dig a 6 X 6 inch trench. They do rod the concrete, but that too makes no sense if you can go around it. Trust me. Just dig a 6 X 6 inch trench, and pour in 4 gallons of Taurus SC per 10 foot section, and treat the backfill dirt. That is all you need to do. You do not need to dig the trench a foot deep. The label says that six inches is fine and so do I. Here is the exact wording from the label. "When trenching, trenches must be a minimum of 6 inches deep (no deeper than the bottom of the footing) and need not be wider than 6 inches". I would not steer you wrong. Be well my friend.

[@AshleyCourt-kn4yd]

Thanks so much for the video Guy. This was very informative. I would like to get your advice. We had a bait system installed last year after seeing swarmers in our foyer by a large pest control company in New Jersey. Obviously, I did not see your fantastic videos when we did that. We finally uncovered mud tubs on the ceiling of our unfinished basement this year directly below the foyer's outer wall because the swarmers returned this year in the same area (no swarmers in the basement !?!?). There are no mud tubes going up the wall of our poured concrete wall/foundation in the basement either. The large pest control company's answer was to put bait systems where the mud tubes were in our basement. Our house is built into a hill so the basement/garage is at ground level, and our first level (where the foyer is located) is on top of it. We have a large stoop and concrete patio (likely built on cinder blocks) that wraps around the front entrance area and is directly adjacent to the foundation wall where the termite swarmers are. Because of the information in your videos... I sought second opinions.. I called two companies and they feel the nest is below, or near this elevated concrete porch that is adjacent to the foundation wall near the problem area. The first guy who came said they would like to drill from the top of the concrete patio (every foot) following the outer wall/foundation where we are seeing swarmers come from and inject the treatment in the the elevated porch from above. He also said that he would trench our entire house which is about 200 linear feet. The guy seemed very thorough with his inspection... He actually found that one of my sprinklers was hitting the house and the water was running down a channel in the vinyl siding and dripping next to the foundation in the vicinity of the problem. The only issue is that he quoted the job at $2900 dollars. He offers a 1 year guarantee that that can be renewed annually upon inspection for 100 dollars. The second guy who came also seemed very good and knowledgeable... he can highly recommended and is related to a friend of my wife. His plan is to drill the concrete on the side of the porch and bore a hole lengthwise underneath our concrete porch toward the outer wall of the foundation and inject from there (so we don't see holes in the deck of the porch). I told him about the sprinkler theory from the other company, but he didn't think it mattered much. He said that he would also like to trench the entire house, and quoted us $1000 dollars for the job. He has a 3 year guarantee up front no inspections required. Curious what you think on the difference in approach when it comes to the concrete deck? Will one be more effective than the other when it comes to treating the elevated concrete porch? Do you think the first gentleman's theory about the water is credible? Are termites attracted to water? And what do you think about the difference in price? I just want this problem gone. I liked the first guy a lot because he seemed so thorough, but do you think he is just trying to make as much of a profit as possible? II just do not want this to be a "you get what you pay for scenario". Thank you so much for your help!!!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for reaching out to me. I want to congratulate you on doing several things correctly. The first thing you did right was to get more than one estimate. As you have now discovered, treatment options and pricing can vary wildly in this industry. You have now also discovered that not all pest controllers know what they are doing. You also got it right by contacting me, because I have been doing this long before most of them were even glimmer in their mother's eye. There aren't too many situations that I have not seen and there's usually a very easy way to take care of subterranean termites without spending a lot of money. This is especially true if you live in New Jersey. The truth is that you only have one species there that is of concern, and they are ridiculously easy to treat in most cases. To give you the correct treatment for your house I need to see some photos of it. You know. A picture is worth a thousand words. Please send me photos of all sides of your house. It would be helpful to see the property from each side of the house to the property line. I am looking for sidewalks, driveways, porches, landscaping, and all that sort of thing. How you do the treatment is dependent upon all of these factors. You can send photos to [e-mail]. I would like you to relax about the situation because the species of termites that you have happen to be very slow eaters and it takes them a very long time to do any significant damage. So, you do have the luxury of time to get this right and to do it in the most cost effective way possible. The situation with the sprinkler water hitting the house could have created a problem with termites. They are attracted to water, so it is never a good idea to have water continuously hitting the house. That is also why it is never a good idea to have landscaping any closer to the house and 24 inches. A lot of people do it, but it's generally because they do not understand the pest control considerations. Anyway, that is a situation that we often do need to work around. When you send the email, please remind me of the situation. I receive an insane number of emails everyday, and most of them are regarding termites. So, it is very easy to get people mixed up. I kind of remember the jobs based on the problems. Still, I get so many emails about termites that I usually need to reread them every time I make a response to refresh my memory. Make sure that you remind me that you are from New Jersey. Location matters because different species are known to exist in different areas of the US. I look forward to receiving your email. Again, please relax, because you have time to deal with this. It is not an emergency. So, let's take a breath and get this right the first time. I promise that I will get you through it. Be well Ashley.

[@AshleyCourt-kn4yd]

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you!!! You are the best! I just sent you an email!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@AshleyCourt-kn4yd You are very welcome. I have your email and I briefly looked at it. I am a little pressed for time this morning and I want to do a good job answering your email, so I may need to write it a little later today. As you can see from other comments, I like to do a thorough job answering questions. I promise that you will hear from me today. I would do it right now, but I have a disabled son that requires a lot of care and it's time for me to get him up and ready for the day. It takes a couple of hours to pull his care together in the morning, but I will respond to your email just as soon as I have that taken care of. So sorry for the delay. Be well Geordan.

[@Polkadotpup]

Hi. I got my chemicals yesterday and I’m doing it this weekend. Question..how far up from the baseboards do I spray the Termidor foam…and how far apart? Do I punch holes in my entire wall. This is my first time to do this.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

If you have termites in the baseboard, then drill holes that are about four inches apart, along the entire damaged area. The holes only need to be wide enough for the applicator tip to enter, and the hole should only be drilled halfway through the wood. For a typical baseboard, that would be about 3/16ths of an inch. If you suspect that they are also in your wall studs, it is difficult to know how far up the stud the infestation is going to be. Most of the time, the infestation is going to be limited to an area very close to the floor, but not always. So, figuring out how high up the stud the damage goes is a little bit of a process. Get a stud finder and locate the exact position of the stud behind the wall. Drill your first hole just above the baseboard, into the stud about 3 inches, and shoot the foam into it. If it comes right back out of you, then that spot probably does not have termite damage. So, drill a hole four inches above the baseboard and try again. Like before, if the foam comes right back out at you, then there is no termite damage. Do this until you have reached 12 inches up the wall. If you haven't found any termites, then there's a good chance that stud is not affected. If you hit a spot where the foam does not come back out at you for a couple of seconds or more, then you hit a spot where there is likely termite activity. In that case you want to drill the holes every four inches, until you hit a spot where the foam is coming right back out at you. When you find that spot, continue treating every four inches for 12 inches past that spot. If the foam keeps coming out at you, then you probably went far enough up the wall. Now, is it possible that they skipped 12 inches and then started eating again. Yes it is, but that doesn't matter because you already poisoned enough area to get the job done. You certainly want to poison as much food as you can, so do try to treat as many active areas as you can, but you do not need to hit them all to be effective. I hope that wasn't too confusing. Please let me know if you need any further clarification. Be well my friend.

[@danielscott9137]

Got one for ya. Since we moved in, we have had squishums crawling on counters and to the top end of our walls. We recently about 6 months ago started seeing frass on the hinge floor of front and back doors. The squishums look like florida carpenters, and today, outside of the front door, there are drywood reproducers feeding the spider webs. Also, the front yard has a lot of small holes with little kickout piles. There is so bad that when im working on the car and placing a tool down, these little fast red ants swarm inanimate objects. These little red guys weren't aggressive until the heat turned up this season. I just bought a battery backpack sprayer and a 2.5gallon of Talak 7.9%. The idea was to broadcast the Talak, to kill the ants nuclear style. Furthermore, we also have several wood sources in the backyard. Every piece of wood introduced to the backyard has subterraneans. But there are absolutely no dirt tubes. The soil is very sandy loam. To top it off, the dogs had a few fleas found on her this summer. Honestly, a product recommendation would be a first step. Biggest bummer is i just recently pulled all my insulation out myself and installed TAP pest control cellulose insulation. The timeline and bora care came in too late, so i didn't have the opportunity to spray the attic. Used rmr 86 instead on mold that worked wonders on black and white mold. Come to think of it there is a gable support 2x6 beam thats wavy that will need a 2x6 sistered to correct. So there are floriday and drywood infestations, with subterraneans in the backyard and angry little red ants in the front.

[@danielscott9137]

I'm a bit confused on ur trenching protocol, using a non repellent followed with a repellent. I'm afraid broadcasting a repellent in the yard may mess conflict with the non repellent trenching. Furthermore, the naoughbors have ant galore aswell. So would I need to use a repellent barrier at property lines? I understand there needs to be a good balance and order. This is where the confusion comes.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You have a LOT of stuff going on. Way too much to address here because KZbin limits the size of my responses. So, it would be better if you email me at [e-mail]. Just copy and paste all of this in the email and put "Case Number 072320241" in the subject line. I now have a case file on you for reference. I think we need to address these issues one at a time. We can start with the termites. While I am waiting for your email, please conduct a full inspection of your house for termites and let me know what you find. I will give you a link to my video on how to do that. Let's see if you have more than drywood termites at work. You may have both subterranean and drywood termites. Carpenter ants are very common when you have a termite infestation. We will address that problem after the termites. I have reasons for this. So, let's break this down into smaller, more manageable pieces that do not seem so overwhelming. I promise that I will answer all your questions and I will work with you until all of your pests are gone. To answer this one question, I do not recommend using repellents in most situations. The products I recommend for yard treatment are 2nd generation pyrethroids that are nonrepellent. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to inspect your house for termites: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pXjccomKbL-sqNE

[@SuperShirts]

Great video thanks. If you have a deck with posts 10-15 ft away from foundation, should you trench both around the post AND the foundation, or just around one or the other?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

When you are dealing with a wooden deck, the preferred method of treatment is to trench around each of the support posts. You should also treat along the side of the house, underneath the deck. I also recommend treating around the stairs where it meets the ground. Oftentimes this is not possible because the deck is too close to the ground to access the support posts or the side of the house. If this is the case, then the best you can do is to treat around the entire deck. This will usually get it done, but keep in mind that there is dirt under the deck, so it is possible that the termites could have established a colony directly under the deck. This is somewhat uncommon, but I do need to mention that it is a possibility. When that happens, trenching around the deck is not going to be effective. There are ways to go after them if they are colonizing under the deck, so let me know if this is the case, and we can talk about ways to treat it. Again, this is an unusual situation, so I would begin by using a standard treatment to see if it works. Keep in mind that it can take up to 12 weeks to eliminate a subterranean termite colony. It is the same amount of time if the pros to it as well. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@thinktanium9789]

what about the water line? do we trench over that? awesome video by the way, ill definetly trench around the driveway and patio

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. Water lines are usually deeper than 6 inches, so they seldom present a problem. You would just dig the trench right over it. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@OffKilterHomestead]

My exterminator wanted to drill into my concrete blocks and treat that way. If I can trench and do it myself would that be better? Or should I go with the drilling. They said it was subt termites, but I don’t know if the other method works for a different reason. I’m in Florida. Thanks!!!

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Drilling into the concrete blocks is almost never necessary. There may be some very rare instances where it might make sense, but most of the time you can simply trench around the building. That being said, before you do that, you should first identify the species. If the pest controller is talking about drilling the concrete blocks, then I think we can rule out drywood termites. At least I hope the pest controller is competent enough to understand that. I never know for sure these days. Assuming that the pest controller understands that you would not drill concrete blocks for drywood termites, then is important understand that you have two species of subterranean termites where you live. If the pest controller gave you a written estimate, then see if he listed the species. If so, please let me know what that is. Also, please let me know if you have mud tubes going up the side of the building, and let me know if this is a slab home or if you have crawl space. I would also like to know if you have anything that would prevent trenching, such a sidewalks that abut to the house. The driveway and patio are fine, and you can trench right around them. Just let me know if you have a situation where you have concrete going right up to the property line or something like that. After I have all this information, I can best help you with the most effective treatment possible. Please note that I've been having some trouble with KZbin lately where they do not always send me comments, or sometimes they will not allow me to respond to them. So, if you do not hear from me within 48 hours, then something is wrong and it would be a good idea to email me at [e-mail]. Be well my friend.

[@OffKilterHomestead]

@@GuysPestSolutions thank you! I just sent an email to include a screen shot.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@OffKilterHomestead You are very welcome. I just responded to your email. Be well my friend.

[@dpmatsontube]

If I have an infestation that's been there for four years, would you use bait in or near the wall? Or would you inject foam into the wall? Or would you do both?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

How you handle that will depend on the species. Figuring out the species is actually pretty easy and I have a video on how to do that. I will provide you with a link below. After watching this video, you should be able to identify the species. Just get back to me after you watch it and let me know what you found out. At that point, I can tell you exactly what you need to do. Let me know if you have any problems identifying the species, but I do not think that you will. It is much easier than you may imagine. Also, please tell me where you live. Location matters. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk

[@arthurmiller8336]

Thank you great tips

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Be well my friend.

[@brandypenell9918]

Hi Guy. I believe I see termite damage around the door frames of my home. I believe it is subterranean termites because dry wood and Formosa termites aren’t know to live in Oklahoma. I plan to treat the perimeter of my home with Taurus sc but in an effort to avoid trenching my crawl space I was considering spray Bora care directly onto the raw wood under the house. My concern was if there is a contradiction in using both. For example is Bora care a repellent and if so should it be applied using a different sprayer and after Taurus treatment? You have also advised the used of Imidichloprid granules, can I also use these around the perimeter after trenching?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You definitely do not have drywood termites in Oklahoma. However, there has been reported activity of Formosan termites in the southern part of the state. That being said, I think it is far more likely that you are correct, and you are looking at a fairly common species of subterranean termites. If you live within 50 miles of the Texas border, then you may want to watch my video on how to identify termites species, just to be on the safe side. I will give you a link to that video. Now, let's talk a little bit about the crawlspace. The only time you need to treat the crawl space is if you are seeing mud tubes that are in contact with the ground. If there are no mud tubes touching the ground, then simply trenching around the house should get the job done. That being said, treating the wood under the crawl space with Bora-Care is never a bad idea. That will protect you from all sorts of would destroying pests, including termites. The treatment is also permanent, which is a nice feature. Using Bora-Care under the crawl space is not going to interfere with the Taurus SC in any way. It is also a non-repellent product. It does not work the same way as Taurus SC, but the two products can be used in the way you are describing. If you do have mud tubes that are in contact with the ground, then it is possible that there is a colony under the house. If that is the case, then the standard procedure for treating it would be to trench under the house as well. You would want to trench along the perimeter of the foundation, and around any piers that are under there as well. If the crawlspace is too tight to allow you to dig, then you can use bait stations. Just install one or two of them in the dirt directly in front of the mud tubes. Check them every day to see if the termites take the bait. If they do, then this may take out the colony. You can make bait stations yourself and I have a video on how to do that. It is important to check the stations every day to make sure that you don't run out of bait in the station. My stations will usually kill off the colony in about 12 weeks. You can buy them commercially, but those can take up to two years to be fully effective. If you treat with Bora-Care, you should also apply it on the foundation walls and on any piers as well. After the infestation is gone, then cover the crawlspace floor with polyethylene plastic. This will prevent termites from starting a colony under the house. Termite granules work in about 95% of all cases of subterranean termites. They do not work for Formosan termites and you cannot use them under the crawlspace. Keep in mind that for the granules to work you need to have dirt around most of the house and that dirt needs to be porous enough to allow water to seep into the ground fairly quickly. To find out if the dirt around your house is porous enough, just dig a small hole next to the house that is about 4 inches deep, 8 inches long, and just the width of the shovel. Fill the hole with water and watch to see how fast it drains down into the ground. If it seeps into the ground fairly quickly, then the granules should work just fine. However, if it just kind of sits there, then the granules would not be a good choice, and you should stick with trenching. Make sure that you buy the correct granules. You need the ones that have imidacloprid as the active ingredient. A lot of the Home Depot and Lowes stores no longer sell the correct granules, but you can get them from Amazon. I will give you a link to them. If you trench, then there is no advantage to also using the granules. You should just use one or the other. I hope that helps. Be well Brandy. Termite granules: www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUIJYM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k1_1_6&amp=&crid=157C3RV0MY0AK&amp=&sprefix=termit Video on how to apply termite granules: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmjViJKKiKd7gJY Video on how to make bait stations: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qGGYi2CXiq-Yntk Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk

[@patspotpage]

Thank you for making this information available! Would it be possible for me to send you an image of the termites I've found, for identification? Thanks.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Yes, but I would need to see one of the soldiers that has a red head, and the photo needs to be large and in perfect focus. You can send it to [e-mail]. You can also watch my video on how to identify termite species. I will give you a link to it. Be well my friend. Video on how to identify termite species: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrWkJRmo8uJoMk

[@CaliMaxe]

Which foam is the one you like to use? There are 2 that you have linked in the description. Thanks for the great video and info.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

I like FiPro the best, but it is only sold by Solutions Pest & Lawn. Unfortunately, they will not ship to all states. So, if you cannot get FiPro, then go with the Termidor Foam. DoMyOwn.com will ship almost anywhere but NY. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@michaelgalgana1722]

Great video very informative thank you

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You are very welcome. Thanks for that nice comment. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@fastian7253]

Hi, thanks for such an informative video. Thought I have a question regarding the trenching, I have a situation where I have gas heater and hot water heater sticking to the outer wall of the house, so can I go around those items while digging a trench or the trenching has to be immediately next to house parameters?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You can usually just go around it. If you like, you can send photos of it to me, and I would be happy to let you know for sure. You can send photos to [e-mail]. Please remind me of the question. I get a lot of termite questions. Be well my friend.

[@fastian7253]

​@@GuysPestSolutionsHey Guy, thanks for replying. I have just sent you an email

[@GuysPestSolutions]

@@fastian7253 I just responded to your email. Be well my friend.

[@MatthewSmith-cp3hu]

prayer LORD please bless guy, as he has been so helpful and generous with his offer of answers to questions in Jesus name amen

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much. Very much appreciated. Be well my friend.

[@hallelujah5506]

Yes, God bless him for his help!

[@wadeintoit]

Hello, and thank you for your willingness to help others by sharing your knowledge and experience. I will be treating my pier and beam home myself and this video is invaluable which brings me to my first question (hahaha). How would you trench a pier and beam foundation? I would assume you just trench a perimeter around the entire structure the same as you would a typical concrete slab foundation. But I have to ask the question because it is a different configuration. Trenching around 40 individual piers under the house would be a bit more labor intensive but it is what it is. Thank you again for your videos! UPDATE: I didn't think you would address pier & beam in this video and as soon as I post this and resume watching your video (you address it lol). It looks like I have some digging to do!!!! One more thing! How long will a trenching treatment with Taurus SC last before a renewal treatment is required?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Unfortunately, the preferred method to treat a house that is on piers is to treat each individual pier as if it were its own foundation. If you are trenching, then you would trench around each pier. Of course, the problem with many pier homes is that they were built so close to the ground in some places that you cannot get under there to treat some of the piers. When you run into that situation, then you need to treat around the piers that you can reach, and then you need to treat around the perimeter of the entire building as well. It is important to understand that subterranean termites colonize in the ground and never in your house. If you have a pier home, then that usually means you have dirt under it. Therefore, it is possible for the termites to colonize directly under the house. That is why we like to treat around each pier. Subterranean termites always return to the colony fairly often to obtain the moisture they need to survive and to feed the other termites in the colony. If you treat around each pier, then it doesn't matter if the colony is directly under the house or not, because they will need to encounter the termiticide on their way to and from the food source. If you cannot treat around one or more of the piers, then that may present the termites with an opportunity to make their way into your house by exploiting the fact that a particular pier, or piers, we're not treated. So, the best you can do is treat the ones that you can treat and then treat around the perimeter as well, hoping that the colony is outside the footprint of the house. If you can see a pier, but you cannot access it, you can shoot a pesticide onto the pier by using a hose end sprayer. Please watch my video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer. Just use the sprayer that I recommend in the video and mix the pesticide as I recommend in the video. Put the sprayer into stream mode and just shoot it onto the piers about every 60 days. This will not treat an existing infestation, but it will prevent new termites from taking that root of entry. While you're at it, it wouldn't hurt to spray the other piers as well, even if you treated them with granules or trenching. If you have enough space under the house to work, then you can treat all the wood with Bora-Care. You should treat the floor joists on all sides, and the subflooring. That means you need to remove the insulation, treat the wood, and then replace the insulation. It's a lot of work, but this will render that wood termite proof forever. I will give you a video on how to use Bora-Care and a link to the product. Always mix it one to one with water. The label will tell you one to five is okay, but don't believe it. You should do this in addition to the trenching. The Bora-Care lasts forever, but the Taurus SC only lasts 5 to 10 years for trenching. The Bifen XTS used for spraying with a hose end sprayer only lasts about 60 to 90 days, so I would do that every 60 days. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to treat your yard with a hose end sprayer: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZrJoIeLasmgppI Bora-Care video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJ7VkJR7pMmsnsk Bora-Care: www.domyown.com/boracare-p-100.html?co_var=3

[@ToOpen6seven]

Thank you for your video. I live in Wake County in NC and had a termite inspector come out and give me a quote using Termidor®, the #1 liquid termite treatment. I was told that he would not drill my garage but put the treatment in(or near) the expansion joints and then on the write-up it states waiving the crawlspace and the garage. He said that waiver wasn't that important and that my entire home will still be covered. I don't know if I trust this contract with these waivers. Should I be concerned? Your answer is truly appreciated.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Let's start with the waiver. When you sign a waiver, you are waiving your rights to legal action. It's that simple. If you get termites in the garage or crawl space, then you cannot sue the company. Most likely he wants that in the contract because he is not certain about where the colony is. Most of the time, the colony is outside the footprint of the house, but every now and then the colony is so close to the house that part of it is actually under the house. When this happens the termites can bypass the pesticide barrier that is placed around the house. Also, if you have a dirt floor in the crawlspace, then a colony could have started under the house as well. So, if the inspector observed something like mud tubes under the crawlspace that are coming up from the ground, or inside a garage wall, then he probably does not want to take chances on getting it wrong. He is probably guessing that they are using the expansion joint as a highway to get in, but he may have doubts about that. My advice would be to get more than one estimate. Please watch my video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off. You may also want to inspect yourself. Just go under the crawlspace and look for mud tubes going up the walls from the ground. If you don't see any, then it is most likely that the colony is outside of the footprint of the house. Even if the termites are using the expansion joint, a proper trench treatment should take care of them. If you do see mud tubes in the crawlspace that are in contact with the ground, then they should be trenching under the crawlspace as well. Now, just because you do see these mud tubes under there, doesn't mean you definitely have a colony under the house, but you cannot rule it out either. For that reason, I would trench under the crawlspace. In any case, I don't think I would sign a waiver. I hope that helps. Be well my friend. Video on how to hire a pest controller without getting ripped off: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r17EaYuFpruloqc

[@julienvanlaethem9504]

Great video, clear and easy to understand. Thanks a lot. Just one question, is the product toxic for pets ?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words. Very much appreciated. The Taurus SC is not toxic to children or pets after the job is completed and the fill dirt has dried. You do not want pets getting into the liquid pesticide. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.

[@johansaid5106]

Thanks a lot for the video...I enjoy to watch your simple way to overcome the termite. Sorry...what do you mean by using non repellent pesticide.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

Thank you so much for those kind words and for the question. You see, pesticides come in two basic flavors. There are repellent pesticides and nonrepellent pesticides. As the name implies, repellent pesticides repel bugs. That is to say, the bugs know somehow that it is a poison for them, and they avoid it. In the case of termites, they will not cross a nonrepellent barrier. When the reach it, they will go in another direction. Nonrepellent pesticides are also just like the name implies. These do not repel bugs. In fact, the bugs cannot identify this material as a poison to them and they will walk right over it. In the case of termites, they will pass right through it and then bring it back to the colony to share with the other termites. Then it's lights out for the entire colony. No colony, no infestation. Subterranean termites always return to the colony, so if they contact this material, then it's game over for them. The bottom line is that nonrepellent pesticides will wipe out the colony, but repellent pesticides will not. With repellent pesticides, you are trying to put a shield around your home that the termites cannot cross, but you are not trying to kill off the colony. The problem with that strategy is that, if there is any area that was not treated, then the termites could find it and still gain entry. By allowing them access to your house, they will not have enough time to do any serious damage before the entire colony is dead. Case in point. I found a 4-inch-long mud tube one day going up the side of my house. I broke it open to see what was inside and it was empty. The termites never even made it to the wood. The colony was wiped out by the time they were able to build a 4-inch-long tube. It is a common practice for pest controllers to use a repellent pesticide for prevention and a nonrepellent pesticide to treat an active infestation, but does that really make a lot of sense? The repellent pesticides are generally cheaper to buy, but is it really worth the savings? I think you are better off spending a few extra bucks to do the job right. An entire house can be treated with a nonrepellent pesticide at today's prices for about $120. So, it kind of makes sense to me to always use a nonrepellent pesticide for termites. I hope that clears it up. Be well my friend.

[@FixItRyan]

Great video, thanks Guy! I’ve come across your channel a week after freaking my house with Termador. In case I made some mistakes, how soon before you can treat an area again?

[@GuysPestSolutions]

You can retrench immediately. If you have already trenched once, then doing it again should be pretty easy digging. The biggest mistakes people make are not treating the backfill dirt and not treating both sides of the driveway and around patios. A lot of the time, you can get away with not treating the backfill, but it's not a sure thing. It depends on the ground conditions. I know pest controllers that never treat the backfill. So, I don't know that I would redo it if that is the problem. I would wait 12 weeks to see if it worked. It can take up to 12 weeks for trenching to be fully effective. If you still have termites after 12 weeks, then I would redo it. Otherwise, just make sure that you have treated around all the concrete, and you should be good to go. If you did something else incorrectly, then let me know, and I will advise you further. Be well my friend.

[@shebutter3195]

Thanks Guy I watched all of your videos. I had to hire a guy to treat my subterranean termites I’m a girl and didn’t want to risk it. How long will it take to kill them? He used Termidor and foam in the basement joist.

[@GuysPestSolutions]

If the pest control company trenched the house and also spot treated, then it should take about two weeks to kill off the colony. Of course, there are several variables that determine the time it takes, like how well they did the job, the size of the colony, how long the infestation has been going on, and so forth. The pros usually do a good job, so you should definitely be termite free within four weeks. If you have visible mud tubes, then break open about a two-inch section and see if there are termites inside. Check every two weeks. If there are termites, they will rebuild the mud tubes. If you don't find termites and the mud tubes are not rebuilt, then the colony is most likely dead. Let me know if the pest controller did not trench because that changes things a lot. I hope that helps. Be well my friend.